Fox Mustang Magazine | Issue 2 by Fox Mustang Magazine

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Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 1

DEPARTMENTS

EDITORIAL

20 FOX NEWS

YOU GOTTA SEE THIS #1

24 EVENTS

10 YOU GOTTA SEE THIS #2

30 MUSTANG NATION

13 THE MARTI REPORT

34 NEW PRODUCTS

18 ORIGINALITY

94 FIX MY FOX

34 ON THE COVER: “Government Spyplane Chaser” sounds like something from an action thriller movie, and it should. Photography by Nelson Cardadeiro. Story on page 44. 4 FOXMustangMagazine.com

FEATURES

COVER STORY

24 SILVER SPRINGS FORD AND MUSTANG ROUNDUP, 2012 Good weather and great cars in an old Florida nature park

44 DRAGON CHASER The declassified report on Keith Suzuki’s “Mobile 1” spyplane chaser

36 BLUE FLAME HOT! Like Lloyd Delong’s ’91 5.0L LX, it’s the blue flame that burns the hottest

RESTORATION & PERFORMANCE 52

SEAT RE-SEAT, PART 2 Fox Mustang Restoration gives our tired, old interior a retro spin with a TMI Products upholstery kit

FROM SLUSHBOX TO SLICK STICK Ditch your automatic Overdrive for exciting, shiftcrazy, Tremec TKO five-speed performance

AUTOMATIC TO MANUAL PEDAL CONVERSION If you’re going five-speed, you’ve got to have a clutch pedal. JME Enterprises shows you how to get it

10-HOLE TRANSFORMATION Giving your Fox Pony’s OE wheels a new lease on life

HIDDEN SINGLE-STAGE NITROUS SYSTEMS Feel the rage from a single stage

NITROUS FAQS Answers to N2O’s common questions

50 POSTER Keith Suzuki’s ’88 Mustang LX 5.0 SSP BIO 58 AHEAD BY A MILE

At the dawn of a new era, the ’79 Indianapolis Pace Car replica marked the first limited-run, collectible Fox

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 5

TOM SHAW >>>>

FROMTHE

EDITOR ON A ROLL

ou’ve probably seen the postings on Facebook, www. foxmustangmagazine. com, www.foureyed pride.com and elsewhere — response to Issue 1 has been overwhelming. Someday we’ll have to have lunch and I’ll tell you some of the behind-thescenes stuff of how that issue came to be. But with Rhea (pronounced “Ray”), our art director, working day and night, we did get it to the printer, the post office, and finally to your mailbox. We’ve heard from you on the forums, in our email, by phone, and at shows: FOX Mustang Magazine is a hit. So now you may be asking, are we a one-hit wonder, or will the magazine stay good? Way back when I was a mere teenager and Colonel Sanders was just a lieutenant, I used to go to the base PX (I was raised military, Dad was Air Force) and buy a record album from a band I liked (they cost $1.25 on base). If it was good, I’d wait patiently for their next one, only to be disappointed that it just wasn’t the same. That’s not going to happen to FMM. This magazine is not a fluke. We had lengthy discussions during the planning phases last fall, and this team is in agreement about whom our readers are, what they want to see, what they don’t want to see, and how we’re going to deliver that every issue. It’s going to stay good. Or even get better. For example, this issue we’re

6 FOXMustangMagazine.com

introducing a new column, Originality, by Terry McCoy, a devoted student of the Fox Mustang who owns an impressive collection of low-mile and unrestored Fox-bodies, including a car or two that have never been dealer prepped. Terry used to make pilgrimages to the hallowed Dearborn Assembly Plant, a.k.a. the Rouge Plant, when the Fox Mustangs were in production. His first column for FMM begins on page 18. We’re big on restoration, working on several cars, including our own in-house ’93 GT convertible. We’re working with leaders in the field, like Matt

“This magazine is not a fluke. We had lengthy discussions during the planning phases last fall, and this team is in agreement about whom our readers are, what they want to see...” Highly at Fox Mustang Restoration, Mark LaMaskin at Performance Autosport, and the Geislers at Orlando Mustang for stories and expertise. We’re all into these cars together. Restoration is big and getting bigger. In fact, I’ve been surprised that at the shows I’ve been to, it’s easier to find a nice, magazine-quality, resto Mustang than a modified. That’s a reversal from when I was photographing hot modifieds back in the ’90s. I think Colonel Sanders had made captain by that time.

We’re also making sure each issue has plenty of performance stories. Going fast is always a good read. Here’s how you can help. It’s amazing how influential just a handful of emails can be, and we want to get feedback from you, good or bad. We hope to hear from you regularly about: • your thoughts on what you see on these pages • a Fox that you think would make a great feature car • restoration and performance questions for our columnists • ideas for stories you’d like to see What’s sad is that people are so conditioned to being hustled and gypped, that when something good comes along, we won’t let ourselves believe it’s for real. “Gotchas” are everywhere — the Nigerian prince isn’t really going to wire you a couple hundred thou once you send him your bank account info to help him liberate his family fortune; the “33% More!” sticker on your Arrid X-tra Dry doesn’t really mean 33% more deodorant but rather 33% more Fresh Scent fragrance; and the girl you met at the party who seemed so into you turns out to have a disturbing surgical history at the sex-change clinic. So fret not, Fox aficionados. Your long-awaited magazine is on track. I hope I’ve allayed your worries, angst, stress, concern, trepidation, and unease about future issues whomping. Maybe we’ll just have to earn your trust page by page, issue by issue. I’m OK with that. FMM

Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 7

> > YOU GOTTA SEE THIS HOSE SHOWS Needless to say, developing a new car takes a lot of work. One of the steps that we don’t get to see is the engine mock-up, where all hardware and hoses are in place. To make the proposed engine compartment for the upcoming ’79 Mustang easier to understand, engineers colorcoded each hose according to its system. Interesting stuff, from a historical or restoration standpoint. — Tom Shaw

photograph from the Jim Smart collection 8 FOXMustangMagazine.com

> > YOU GOTTA SEE THIS CANADIAN COBRA For reasons unknown, north of the border what we know as the Mustang GT was called the Cobra GT. Canadian Cobra GTs were largely identical to U.S. Mustang GTs, but they also had: • Cobra badging • Unique Transport Canada stickers and DSO codes • Warning labels in English and French • Daytime running lights (’90-up) • Standard rear-window defroster • Standard lower-body road-abrasion coating • Standard engine-block heater • Metric speedometer So now you know. The ’79-’81 and ’93 models were not the only Fox Cobras. — Huw Evans

PUBLISHER CURT PATTERSON curt@pattersonpublishing.com EDITOR TOM SHAW tom@themustangmagazine.com MANAGING EDITOR BRANDON PATTERSON brandon@pattersonpublishing.com COPY EDITOR LAURA BURKE ART DIRECTOR RHEA VAN ARSDALL CIRCULATION DIRECTOR JASON JACOBS jason@pattersonpublishing.com MUSTANG NATION / EVENTS DIRECTOR JASON JACOBS jason@pattersonpublishing.com WEB MARKETING BRANDON PATTERSON brandon@pattersonpublishing.com ADVERTISING SALES TEAM CURT PATTERSON JASON JACOBS BRANDON PATTERSON OFFICE MANAGER DEB PATTERSON COLUMNISTS SCOTT HOAG KEVIN MARTI TERRY McCOY CONTRIBUTORS NELSON CARDADEIRO Bill DeBLOIS HUW EVANS JIM SMART FOX Mustang Magazine is published monthly by Patterson Publishing, 4755 Drane Field Road, Suite 105, Lakeland, Florida 33811. Subscription Rates (monthly frequency): U.S. 12 issues $24.97; Canada add $15 per year for postage. All other countries add $25 per year for postage. U.S. Funds only. Allow 6-8 weeks for new subscriptions. Send address change to FOX Mustang Magazine, Customer Service, P.O. Box 7517, Lakeland, Florida 33807. Customer Service (877) 279-3010. Patterson Publishing, Lakeland, Florida Phone (863) 701-2707 “Trust in the Lord with all your heart, and lean not on your own understanding. In all your ways acknowledge Him, and He will direct your paths.” Proverbs 3:5-6

ADVANCED MUSTANGOLOGY

>>>>

THEMARTI

REPORT ’79 PACE CAR — CAN I TURBOCHARGE THAT FOR YOU?

unny thing about the '70s — they weren’t very funny, except Saturday Night Live (yeah, that show used to be funny!). So much was in disarray, and the auto industry was no exception. The oil crisis of 1973 had messed up the comfort zone of the Big Four (the carnage was going to reduce that to the Big Three and eventually make even that term irrelevant). One solution Ford was getting ready to try was turbocharging. Used for over a decade at the Indianapolis 500 by the Offenhauser team, Ford decided to debut it on its new Foxbody Mustang for 1979 using the Lima 2.3L four-cylinder. Nearly reaching the magic 1 hp per cubic inch hotrod standard of the day, it was only 8 hp shy of the V-8 engine at less than half the displacement. An AiResearch T-3 unit would become the choice turbocharger for the Fox Mustangs. By “choice,” I don’t mean it was a good one. It was expensive to replace, typically over a thousand dollars for a rebuilt unit (in ’80s dollars), and it seemed it had to be replaced often. Like the Boss 302 motor from a decade earlier, it suffered from an inadequate oiling system. But the 63rd Indy 500 would be paced by ’79 Mustangs with Jack Roush–prepped 5.0L engines and Jackie Stewart at the wheel. And for good reason — reliability would haunt the four-banger motor as long as there was a carburetor on top. Still, the public was ready for this new way to power their rides. So ready, in fact, that nearly 33,000 Mustangs were sold with the W-code turbo-four. That represented nearly 10 percent of Mustang sales for the ’79 model year. With the Pace Car Mustangs, well over half were ordered with the turbo. Only available

with a manual transmission, a handful were produced with the four-speed Overdrive transmission. A couple of these were sold overseas, and 16 of them were sold in the United States. Mustang seats were never conducive to long trips, but the addition of the Recaro bucket seats in the Pace Cars drove up the comfort factor substantially. American fascination with Europe was growing at this time, and the choice of the German-made Recaro seat fit well with the whole Euro-look of the third-generation Mustang. Also available were the special TRX tires, wheels, and suspension based on a 390mm-diameter wheel. Replacement of these metric tires was a challenge in the first few years. The new Mustang fit with the public so well that over a third of a million were sold that year, besting Camaro and Firebird production by tens of thousands of units. Sales of Mustangs hadn’t been so swift since the debut of the Mustang II in 1974.

Although the Mustang Pace Car was designed and marketed for a United States audience, some were sold in Canada and overseas. Nearly 600 Pace Cars were shipped to Canada, but the turbocharged version was ordered by only 34 customers. Less than 5 percent of all ’79 model Mustangs that were shipped north of the border carried the W-code in the serial number. Sales outside of North America were a scant 76 Pace Cars, and only four of them were turbocharged. But the Europeans were much more comfortable with ordering their Mustangs turbocharged, with one in six Mustangs being ordered this way for that model year, well-eclipsing the American penetration rate. Pace Car Mustangs were produced with flip-up, open-air roofs. The three Mustangs that actually paced the Indianapolis 500 race were modified with T-tops fitted by Cars & Concepts, the same company that would begin

The haircuts were funny, but the car was serious.

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 13

ADVANCED MUSTANGOLOGY

Zero options — stripped down and ready for business.

producing the Mustang convertibles during the ’80s. You could not order your Pace Car with the T-top. That option would not reappear on the Mustang until 1981. The white Mustang pictured was originally painted Light Pewter Metallic for the Indianapolis 500. However, it started life as a white Mustang with a blue interior. Jack Roush prepped these cars for pacing by taking three of the original Introductory Show Units and modifying the 302 engines. After the race, Roush returned this car to a white color, where it saw Pace Car duties again at the debut of the Detroit Grand Prix in 1982. Today it resides in Jack Roush’s museum in Livonia, Michigan.

>>>> One of the actual Pace Cars, returned to its original white color and residing with Jack Roush in the Detroit area.

PACE CAR BREAKDOWN Engine/Trans* U.S. Sales

Canada Sales

Overseas Sales

Totals

F/W

1,775

265

2,105

F/5

2,103

291

2,401

W/6

5,918

5,954

W/5

Totals

9,812

590

10,478

Statistics copyrighted Ford Motor Company and Marti Auto Works. See www.martiauto.com/statistics for permission to use. *The V-8 version of the Pace Car has an “F” in the engine position of the VIN whereas the turbofour will have a “W.” No other engines were available for the Indy replicas. The automatic transmission available with the V-8 5.0L was a C-4 automatic and had a code of “W.” The manual transmission used on the 2.3L was coded as a “6.” The Overdrive manual transmission used on the 5.0 was coded “5” as well as the ultrarare one available on the 2.3L. The quickest way to identify a true ’79 Pace Car as authentic is the serial number. Ford used the sequence number as the identifier. Like the ’69 Shelby Mustang, the first two digits begin with “48,” and even though there were 10,478 Pace Cars built, every one sold to the public began with “48.” The reason this was possible is that Ford was once again building Mustangs at the San Jose assembly plant. Both plants started numbering Pace Cars from 480001. Pace Car Mustangs were available with most of the options available for the regular Mustangs. You could even order an air conditioner with your Turbo Pace Car. But 163 buyers must have been real serious about why they bought their Indy replicas. They ordered them with no options. Guess we know who really wanted to be out in front. FMM

Marti Auto Works produces The Marti Report and is licensed by Ford Motor Company with all of their ’67-later production records. This information is available as various reports. Marti Auto Works also has original invoices for millions of Shelbys and Mustangs. Visit www.martiauto.com or call (623) 935-2558 for more info. Email Kevin at kevin@martiauto.com. Not all emails will receive a response.

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Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 15

ORIGINALITY

FACTORY ORIGINAL AS IT LEFT THE FACTORY Editor’s Note: This issue, we welcome Terry McCoy as a regular columnist, writing about originality. Terry has had an intense interest in Fox Mustangs for decades. He has studied original, unrestored, untouched cars extensively and built what may be the best collection of low- and no-mile Fox Mustangs in the country. Terry will share his knowledge of originality every month exclusively in FOX Mustang Magazine.

I’ve been an enthusiast of ’79-’93 Mustangs long before they were called Fox-bodies. Back in the early days (the ’80s) they were referred to as third-generation Mustangs. My first Mustang was an ’82 GT 5.0 four-speed. That car gave me such a thrill. It was lightweight and fun to drive. I had never felt that kind of power. I could be in First gear and nail it, and the car would start burning until I hit Second gear. Then it would chirp going into Third. Because of the pleasure and thrills I’ve had over the years of driving Fox Mustangs, this is where my passion lies today. Once I purchased the ’82 GT, I was hooked. From there, I wanted a convertible because I figured if a hatchback was this much fun, then a convertible would be even more awesome. I’ve been collecting these Mustangs since the mid-’80s. I also collect dealer literature, banners, posters, articles, press kits, memorabilia, and Fox-body die-casts. I also like collecting parts, especially N.O.S. or newcar take-offs, anything Fox-body

related. The fun is in the hunt. I’ve been an MCA Gold Card judge for over 20 years. I wrote the test for the ’85 Mustang, but I was Gold Card judge for ’79-’93 Mustangs. Many times I’ve visited the Mustang Plant, better known as the Dearborn Assembly Plant (DAP), during the Fox-body production. What an experience to see a legend built right before my eyes. But we’ll go into the assembly progress another time. AS SHIPPED, PART 1 — EXTERIOR How did your Mustang arrive at the Ford dealership before it was dealer-prepped for predelivery inspection (PDI)? I call this the car’s birth certificate. All of the car’s labels, stickers, and crayon marks have meanings. Even the plastic for seats, carpet, and convertible tops does wonders for providing information. Here, I’ll break down the meaning of the exterior labels and stickers using my ’85 Mustang GT convertible, which is displayed like the day it left DAP.

Round label states DAP - #12: DAP = Dearborn Assembly Plant #12 car = car was built on the 12th day of the month White rectangular sticker next to DAP sticker: Cars & Concepts OK for shipping. All ’83-’93 Mustang convertibles convertibles were outsourced to C&C for the convertible top installation. When the top was completed and ready to be shipped back to DAP, this sticker was applied. Yes, these Mustangs went back to DAP once again. Coupes/hatchbacks will not have this sticker, unless they have T-tops or a “Flipup/Open Air Roof” (sunroof). 18 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Window sticker: Shows content, standard and optional, the car’s destination, name of dealership, and Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price, which for this car was $16,614.00. Square F/top convertible windshield glass: These stickers were affixed to the glass to inform the line workers that the car was to be a convertible. The sticker is dated Aug. 1982 because that’s when the glass for the convertible entered production. Yellow labels on tire: Indicates that the wheels/tires have been balanced. Small rectangular Customer Acceptance label: Applied at pre-delivery, meaning the car was ready for shipment. Rectangular black-and-white checkerboard label: These letters represented check-off points. Employees would sign their initials so the car could be released to another department. Small rectangular Final Acceptance: The last time the car was inspected prior to shipment.

White plastic convertible top cover: This was a protectant for the convertible top during shipment to the dealership. The red plastic cap in the radio antenna base protected the threads during shipment until the actual antenna was installed at the dealership. Plastic door-edge guards protect against dings and scratches. The red pinstripe, not a GT option, was requested and approved as part of a V.I.P. build and applied during assembly. FMM

Next Month:

AS SHIPPED, PART 2 — INTERIOR Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 19

NEWS FOX FOX FOX F FIND THE REPEAT MUSTANG SOLUTION In our first-ever You Gotta See This (Issue 1, pages 8-9) we showed you a collage of pictures readers have sent us of their Fox Mustangs. In that collage, we repeated one of the Mustangs and challenged readers to find it. It proved surprisingly hard. We heard from only a few people who found the duplicate. So here’s the solution. Maybe we should do easier puzzles?

IS MERCURY CAPRI A FOX MUSTANG? We haven’t come to this issue yet, but this seems like as good a time as any to raise a controversy. You probably know that Mercury offered a parallel model to the Mustang from 1979 through 1986. It has its own performance versions: the RS, Black Magic ’81-’83, White Lightning ’81-’82, Crimson Cat ’83, Turbo RS (’84), and McLaren ’84-’86. So are these Mustangs — deserving their own piece of the spotlight right alongside the venerated Mustang? Or are they a different animal entirely, neither fish nor fowl, and not worth displacing a genuine Ford from our Mustang pages? Weigh in with your thoughts at tom@themustangmagazine. com, or send letters to FOX Mustang Magazine, P. O. Box 7157, Lakeland, FL 33813.

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Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 21

NEW COLUMNIST FOX Mustang Magazine is excited to welcome Terry McCoy as our newest columnist. Michigan-based Terry will write about matters of originality for Fox Mustangs, drawing from his extensive research and ownership of low-mile and no-mile Fox Mustangs, collection of Ford literature, visits to the Dearborn plant during Fox Mustang production, and network of buddies and pals who worked there. Terry is very precise and careful not to overstate or mislead in how he writes and speaks. We’ve already got a whole year’s worth of topics for him to write about, but if you’d like to suggest a topic or ask a question, drop us an email.

BLUE TOP

Speaking of Terry McCoy, during some recent hang-out time at the Silver Springs Mustang Roundup, Terry called our attention to Mynor Holmgren’s ’89 5.0 LX convertible. What caught Terry’s eye was the unusual color combination. The exterior was Dark Blue Metallic (code 7N) and the convertible top was Dark Blue (code R). Both were factory original, right down to the Carlite logo in the lower right corner of the original rear window.

FROM THE FLIGHTLINE Reader and longtime bud Bill Hamilton Jr. called our attention to this article on the U. S. Air Force website that shows pics and offers a little more info on the U-2 chase cars. The link is: www.af. mil/news/story.asp? storyID=123286352. The Mustangs are replaced by lesser cars, but there are some good quotes from the pilots. There are also some good videos on YouTube, including a 2:23 clip from the Air Force, a typically entertaining 4:06 spot from Top Gear, and a compilation or two of less-than-textbook landings, driving home the U-2’s reputation for bad landing manners.

CORRECTION In Issue 1, the dusty Mustang shown on page 10 of You Gotta See This is either an ’87 or ’88 model, not a ’90 as per the info provided to us.

MOST COLLECTIBLE FOX MUSTANGS: WEB POLL What’s the most collectible Fox Mustang? The ’93 Cobra, ’79 Pace Car, SVO, ’82 GT? Or something else? We want to know what you think. Will you do us a favor? How about logging onto our website at www.foxmustangmagazine.com and click the link for Web Poll: Top Collectible Fox Mustangs? Look for the results in a future issue. FMM

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Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 23

SHOW COVERAGE & EVENTS

>>>>

EVENTS/

SILVER SPRINGS FORD AND MUSTANG ROUNDUP, 2012

INSET: Silver Springs’ glass-bottom boats take park visitors on a fascinating tour of the natural springs feeding the headwaters of the Silver River, where gators, waterbirds, and flying fish hang out.

photography by Austin Shaw and Tom Shaw With its main showroom just down the road in Ocala, National Parts Depot, the show’s primary sponsor, always brings an interesting sample of its outstanding car collection. This ’79 Ghia is Fox Mustang No. 100,001, powered by the turbo 2.3, and optioned out with leather seats and vinyl top. It was sold new in the Chicago area, driven for about a year, then stored. NPD also has the very last Fox Mustang produced.

Good weather and great cars in an old Florida nature park

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f you’re ready for a breather from the latest Arctic cold front, the annual Mustang Roundup in Silver Springs, Florida, is where to be. This year, nearly 1,000 cars packed the park to take advantage of the good weather and wild variety of superb Fords and Mustangs, and maybe even an interesting Mercury or Lincoln. Silver Springs, an attraction dating back to the 1800s, became a major draw for Florida visitors in the 1950s, as the park welcomed 800,000 guests a year. It has also been the location for filming over 100 episodes of Sea Hunt, 1930s-era Tarzan movies, and parts of James Bond movies, among many others. Today, the nearly 100-percent-pure water still flows millions of gallons every day. And every January, a long line of fine Fords flows into the park, forming a powerful attraction of nature and automobile that’s hard to resist.

ABOVE: Saleen Mustangs, the featured car in 2010, were out in force. This sharp ’90 hatch is owned by Tod Anderson. Tod won an Editor’s Choice award for Best Mustang. TOP RIGHT: Rick Holubek’s ’85 Capri was outfitted as a stout SVO. The heavily worked 2.3 turbo-four has all the goodies, including plenty of attitude, and will pull the front wheel off the line. MIDDLE RIGHT: Hot among Fox fans are the SSP (Special Service Package) models. This ’93 (the last year for the SSP), was a former Florida Highway Patrol car. Owned by Scott and Dawn Waszak, it was offered for sale at $15,000. BOTTOM RIGHT: Thomas Shields III has the right touch on this ’86 T-top hatch that features an Edelbrock Victor intake tract, Cobra R wheels, and a hogged-out intake tube. Is it just us, or do Fox Mustangs look particularly good in red?

EVENTS MARCH 3.1-3.4 | BRADENTON, FL NMRA 714.444.2426 www.nmradigital.com 3.14-3.17 | LAS VEGAS, NV SHELBY 50TH ANNIVERSARY BASH www.teamshelby.com 3.23-3.24 | BAYTOWN, TX FUN FORD WEEKEND www.funfordweekend.com

3.23-3.25 | PENSACOLA, FL GULF COAST MUSTANG NATIONAL www.gulfcoastmustangclub.org

APRIL 4.12-4.15 | COMMERCE, GA NMRA www.nmradigital.com

3.24 | MACON, GA CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL CAR SHOW www.fcmccherryblossom.webs.com

4.13-4.14 | ALAMOGORDO, NM WHITE SANDS MUSTANG AND FORD ROUNDUP www.alamostang.com

3.31 | POLK CITY, FL 15TH ANNUAL MUSTANG AND MUSTANGS Pat Rego; 863.665.2322

4.19-4.22 | CHARLOTTE, NC CHARLOTTE AUTOFAIR SPRING MEET www.charlotte-autofair.com

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 25

SHOW COVERAGE & EVENTS

>>>>

ABOVE: Clear views through the natural spring water to the rock beds and springs eight stories below make for an entertaining excursion, year after year. TOP LEFT: At water’s edge, we spotted this meeting of the local Camaro club. MIDDLE LEFT: Jim Amos’ ’84 GT350 recalls the early pre–fuel-injection era with this well-preserved, premium four-eye.

BELOW LEFT: Thomas Keup took home the Best Saleen award with his clean-as-a-pin ’87.

EVENTS 4.20-4.21 | LAS VEGAS, NV FUN FORD WEEKEND www.funfordweekend.com 4.26-4.29 | ST. GEORGE, UT MUSTANG SHOWDOWN AT THE RED ROCK CORRAL www.numoa.webs.com MAY 5.4-5.6 | MECHANICSVILLE, MD NMRA www.nmradigital.com

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5.18-5.20 | NASHVILLE, TN SHELBY SPRING FLING Joyce Yates; 812.988.7146 www.indianasaac.com

6.3-6.4 | DEARBORN, MI SHOW AND GO HOSTED BY SAAC www.saac-mcr.net

5.20 | CUDAHY, WI ALL FORD SHOW AND SWAP Tim Miller; 414.764.6726 www.wemustangers.com

6.7-6.10 | BRANSON, MO BRANSON MUSTANG RALLY Earl Hillard; 918.838.1614 greencountryclassicmustangs.com

JUNE 6.1-6.3 | CARLISLE, PA FORD NATIONALS www.carlisleevents.com

6.13-6.17 | TULSA, OK MID AMERICA FORD AND SHELBY NATIONALS www.midamericafordmeet.com

ABOVE: Let this be a lesson — don’t put off going to the body shop.

TOP RIGHT: With SVO wheels and what looked like a genuine SVO 2.3 engine and hood, Robert Elzin’s ’88 LX convertible gives a glimpse at what SVO might have looked like had it continued and been offered with the drop-top.

MIDDLE RIGHT: Fox Mustangs went out with a bang with the ’93 Cobra. Perry Lewis’ extra-clean ’93 captured the award for ’87-’93 Mustang. Nice.

BOTTOM RIGHT: Silver Springs attracts Mustangers from all over the Southeast, but Deola Dominic came from nearby Ocala with this restrained-looking but warmed-up ’88 hatchback.

FMM

EVENTS 6.14-6.17 | STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, CO ROCKY MOUNTAIN MUSTANG ROUNDUP www.rmmr.org 6.15-6.16 | MILAN, MI NMRA www.nmradigital.com 6.17 | MONTOURSVILLE, PA FAB FORDS ON FATHER’S DAY www.ncmustangclub.org

6.22-6.24 | CONCORD, CA GOLDEN GATE MUSTANG NATIONAL SHOW Deryl Stanley; 925.447.3633 www.goldengatemustangnational.com JULY 7.12-7.15 | JOLIET, IL NMRA www.nmradigital.com 7.15 | ELYRIA, OH MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW 440.934.7112; www.ncmco.org

7.17-7.21 | MYRTLE BEACH, SC MUSTANG WEEK www.mustangweek.com 7.19-7.22 | BELLEVUE, WA MUSTANGS NORTHWEST ROUND-UP www.mustangsnorthwest.com 7.20-7.22 | WARWICK, RI OCEAN STATE MUSTANG NATIONALS www.mccnenationals.com

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 27

TRAVEL

>>>>

MUSTANG

NATION south Edition A DIRECTORY FOR MUSTANGERS, BY MUSTANGERS

ouldn’t it be great to have one complete source — a giant directory of the Mustang world — where you can find parts vendors, restoration and mechanical shops, shows and events, great diners and restaurants, roadside attractions, races, drive-ins, and just plain old neat things? FOX Mustang Magazine has set out to build just that — a master resource. Whether you’re into restoring, racing, or just cruising and having some fun, let this directory be your guide to places of interest for Mustangers. The directory will be divided into the following regions: Florida, South, Mid-Atlantic, New England, Midwest, Great Plains, Texas, Rocky Mountains, Southwest, California, and Pacific Northwest. Will you help us build it? If you know of a place or business that your fellow Mustangers would appreciate knowing about, please contact Jason Jacobs at jason@pattersonpublishing.com; (877) 279-3010.

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18 Ark ans as

31 40

Mississippi

17 Louisi an a

4 39

West Virgi nia

Virgi nia

41 2

Kentu cky

25 9

15 45

38 58

T ennessee

Nor th Caroli na

29 61

56 6

57 33

36 54

49 35 5 46 42

14 8

47 53 7

62 3

22 60 34 32 Atlanta 10 43

South Caroli na

A labama

21 59

G eorgia

ANNUAL EVENTS 1 CHARLOTTE AUTOFAIR Charlotte, NC

April

2 KENTUCKY PONY CAR ROUND-UP Frankfort, KY

April

3 NMRA Commerce, GA

April

4 SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY MUSTANG SHOW Biloxi, MS

April

TRAVEL

>>>> BILTMORE ESTATE, Asheville, NC

22 MUSTANG & ALL-FORD SHOW Gwinnett, GA

October

23 MUSTANG AND CLASSIC FORD SHOW Savannah, GA

October

24 MUSTANG SHOW Hot Springs, AR

October

25 NMRA ALL-FORD WORLD FINALS Bowling Green, KY

5 ALL-FORD POWERED AND MUSTANG CAR SHOW Huntsville, AL

14 MUSTANG & FORD SHOW AND SWAP Calhoun, GA

6 FUN FORD WEEKEND Rockingham, NC

15 MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW Greensboro, NC

May

7 MUSTANG AND ALL-FORD SHOW Union City, GA

May

8 MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW Buford, GA

May

9 SHELBY SPRING FLING Nashville, TN

May

11 DADS AND GRADS CAR SHOW Lexington, KY

June

12 FUN FORD WEEKEND Bristol, TN

June

13 FUN FORD WEEKEND Petersburg, VA

June

16 MUSTANG WEEK Myrtle Beach, SC

July

17 ANNUAL MUSTANG ROUNDUP Bossier, LA

September

18 FUN FORD WEEKEND Millington, TN

September

May

10 SILVER IN THE HILLS CRUISE Stone Mountain, GA

June

32 FOXMustangMagazine.com

19 SEPTEMBER IN THE PARK MUSTANG SHOW Carrollton, KY

September

20 ALL-FORD AND TRUCK SHOW Wilmington, NC

October

21 HEART OF DIXIE MUSTANG AND ALL-FORD SHOW Prattville, AL

October

26 MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW North Charleston, SC

November

ATTRACTIONS 27 BILTMORE ESTATE Asheville, NC

(800) 411-3812

28 BUSCH GARDENS Williamsburg, VA

(800) 343-7946

29 CAROWINDS THEME PARK Charlotte, NC

(800) 888-4386

30 FLOYD GARRETT’S MUSCLE CAR MUSEUM Sevierville, TN

(865) 908-0882

31 GRACELAND Memphis, TN

(901) 332-3322

32 SIX FLAGS Atlanta, GA

(770) 948-9290

33 SOUTH OF THE BORDER Dillon, SC

(843) 774-2411

34 STONE MOUNTAIN PARK Stone Mountain, GA

(770) 498-5690

35 U.S. SPACE & ROCKET CENTER Huntsville, AL

47 GORDON’S CLASSIC RESTORATIONS Dallas, GA

RESTAURANTS

48 GT MUSTANG RESTORATIONS Florence, SC

(800) 63-SPACE

36 BEACON DRIVE-IN Spartanburg, SC

(864) 585-9387

37 BESSINGER’S BBQ Charleston, SC

(843) 556-1354

38 ELLISTON PLACE SODA SHOP Nashville, TN

(615) 327-1090

39 JOEY K’S RESTAURANT New Orleans, LA

(504) 891-0997

40 RENDEZVOUS Memphis, TN

(901) 523-2746

41 SMOKEY VALLEY TRUCK STOP Olive Hill, KY

(606) 286-5001

(256) 931-7667

55 DANIEL CARPENTER Concord, NC

57 HOLCOMB MOTORSPORTS Lumberton, NC

(800) 475-7223

(540) 896-9024

58 LOKAR Knoxville, TN

(803) 532-1011

52 PERFORMANCE AUTOSPORT Richmond, VA

(704) 888-1278

(256) 797-7472

51 OSWALT’S CLASSIC MUSTANGS Leesville, SC

(704) 786-0990

56 FOX MUSTANG RESTORATION Locust, NC

(843) 669-0385

50 MAPLE HILL RESTORATION Broadway, VA

(256) 882-6813

(770) 445-9409

49 M&D RESTORATION Huntsville, AL

(804) 358-2505

MUSTANG PARTS & SERVICE 53 AUTO CUSTOM CARPETS Aniston, AL

42 SON’S HOUSE OF BBQ Arab, AL

54 C&L PERFORMANCE Huntsville, AL

(800) 633-2358

(865) 966-2269

59 MAGOO MUSTANG Greenville, AL

(334) 382-6720

60 MUSTANGS UNLIMITED Lawrenceville, GA

(888) 229-2929

61 NATIONAL PARTS DEPOT Charlotte, NC

(704) 331-090

62 YEAR ONE Braselton, GA

(800) 950-9503

FMM

43 THE VARSITY DRIVE-IN Atlanta, GA

(404) 881-1706

MUSTANG RESTORATION SHOPS 44 BLUEGRASS MUSTANG Grayson, KY

(800) 521-6755

45 CAROLINA MUSTANG Cary, NC

(800) 554-4342

46 CLASSIC CAR CONCEPTS Laceys Spring, AL

(256) 882-5122

STONE MOUNTAIN PARK, Stone Mountain, GA Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 33

NEW PARTS

>>>>

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE COYOTE STOCK PRO HEADS-UP PACKAGE Performance Automatic’s new transmission package is specifically designed for NMRA Coyote Stock competition. It pairs with Ford’s new Coyote 5.0 sealed race engine. Performance Automatic www.performanceautomatic.com (301) 963-8078

’87-’93 LX BODY SIDE MOLDING KITS Restore your side molding with these kits from Latemodel Restoration. Featuring urethane and plastic injection-molded components, the kits include all fender, door, and quarter moldings for both sides of the vehicle. Latemodel Restoration www.latemodelrestoration.com (866) 507-3786

CHAMPION LOW-PROFILE FANS Keep your engine cool with a Champion LowProfile Series fan from Maradyne. Available in sizes from 7 to 16 inches, all with a depth of only 3.19 inches or less. The reversible S-blade design and sealed motor are dustproof and waterproof. Maradyne www.maradynehp.com (800) 403-7953

34 FOXMustangMagazine.com

’86-’93 MUSTANG FUEL SYSTEM TUBING Classic Tube now has 5.0 Mustang fuelsystem tubing for the ’86-’93 models. Available in prebent stainless steel or OE steel with the correct-size end fittings. Classic Tube www.classictube.com (800) 882-3711

FOX-BODY TRI-BAR HUBCAPS Drake Muscle Cars offers these Mustang Tri-bar hubcaps for ’90-’93 Fox-bodies. They feature a smooth, shiny chrome or argent finish with recessed Mustang and Tri-bar emblem. Drake Muscle Cars www.drakemusclecars.com (800) 999-0289

ASHTRAY REPAIR KIT If your Fox Mustang has a floppy ashtray door, Fox Mustang Restoration’s all-metal repair kit is the solution. Instructions are included. Fox Mustang Restoration www.foxresto.com (704) 888-1278

FMM Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 35

big part of Mustang’s huge success lies in its ability to appeal to different age groups. When Ford was planning its Mustang marketing assault 50 years ago, its primary targets were young baby boomers coming of age and wanting sporty cars, not dad sedans. Ford

36 FOXMustangMagazine.com

planned for 100,000 ’65 Mustangs but wound up building and selling more than 500,000 from three assembly plants. Mustang became a fast and furious youth movement that spilled over into other segments of society — middle aged, old, wealthy, dirt poor, and crazy rich. People young and

old bought Mustangs, even when they didn’t really understand why. Though Ford never witnessed this kind of buying phenomenon again, it has always known how to reinvent the Mustang. Each time Ford has taken Mustang back to the drawing board, buyers have roared into showrooms

and put their money down on this fresh slice of American pie. Though the Mustang II gets its share of thumbs down, Ford sold more than a million of them in five years. Someone certainly liked them. The reinvented, Jack Telnack–sculpted, ’79 Mustang again stumped

marketing types with a whopping 369,936 units sold, according to www.foureyedpride.com. There has never been a Mustang generation to equal Fox because no other generation has been in production for as long — 25 years if you include the ’94-’04 SN-95s. As with the early classics,

it’s hard to find anyone who hasn’t owned one or had a buddy with one. Lloyd DeLong bought his ’91 Mustang 5.0L LX hatchback right off the Ford lot as a yearend deal because ’92 models were already in the showrooms. Window sticker was $16,400 and change. Lloyd

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 37

scooped this one up for $12,995 and promptly drove it home. “It was my daily driver for 10 years,” he says. “Then I had it repainted in the original Bimini Blue with Santini flames and started modifications from there.” Lloyd’s first effort was a complete engine rebuild, but he wasn’t happy with the power. He wanted

more, and to get it, he added a candy store full of goodies, starting with a Vortech High Output supercharger with Power Cooler. Air metering was upgraded with a Pro M 75mm mass-air unit and 70mm throttle body. A proportionate increase in fuel flow came through 42-lb/hr injectors and a T-Rex boost pump. It all flows through an Edelbrock Performer RPM II intake and heads. On the exhaust side are equal-length shorty headers, a high-flow 2½-inch H-pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, MSD ignition, and an SCT custom chip just to stir things up. At the center of the engine is a fresh 306-inch small-block ready for big action. Autotek and Superior Automotive machined it to 0.030-inch over and fitted the already-tough engine with forged pistons. Because the supercharger increases the cylinder pressure, compression was kept modest. Lloyd wanted reliability, so he had it balanced and blueprinted. Yet, he never had to do much more because the 5.0L engine is a solid, dependable workhorse. With close

attention to detail and Vortech/ Edelbrock power adders, Lloyd experienced a gain of more than 100 hp with the butterfly pinned. Suspension and brakes were not neglected during the upgrade. Lloyd opted for a Stainless Steel Brakes rear disc brake conversion and Kenny Brown AGS suspension system with a 1Â˝-inch drop. A nice 3.55:1 compromise in cogs gives Lloyd rocket-ship performance in First through Fourth gears, and cruiseability in Overdrive. As you can see, Lloyd spent

40 FOXMustangMagazine.com

FLAME COLOR/TEMPERATURE FLAME COLOR

APPROXIMATE TEMPERATURE RANGE, Fahrenheit

Red

600 – 1,000

Orange

1,000 – 2,500

Yellow

2,500 – 4,500

Blue

4,500 – 10,000

SPECIFICATIONS

time on the interior with customupholstered, high-back factory seats; custom instrumentation with a shift light; white face gauges; and an Alpine stereo system with CD player. This full-scale project has enabled Lloyd and his wife, Barbara, to begin enjoying their Mustang all over again with a fresh, blue-hot ride. Once again Mustang spans the age groups, even if it’s the very FMM same Mustang.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

’91 Mustang 5.0L LX hatchback Bimini Blue clearcoat 5.0L High-Output V-8 with 4.030-inch bores Forged pistons with balanced and blueprinted bottom end Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with 1.90/1.60-inch valves Edelbrock Performer RPM II induction Pro M 75mm mass-air with 70mm throttle body Vortech High-Output supercharger Vortech Maxflow Power Cooler 42-lb/hr injectors Equal Length shorty headers High-Flow 2½-inch H-pipe Flowmaster exhaust system MSD Ignition SCT Custom Chip tune Tremec T-5 five-speed Ford 8.8-inch axle with 3.55:1 Traction-Lok Stainless Steel Brakes rear disc brakes Custom Upholstery by Bill’s Custom Upholstery in Brea, CA BBK white-face gauges Body and paint by Hi-Tech of Anaheim, with flames by Santini

Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 43

44 FOXMustangMagazine.com

iding a wingspan roughly as wide as a 10-story building is high, the U-2 pilot, insulated in a full pressurized flight suit and astronaut-like helmet, grips the stick and makes a final check on his alignment with the runway. The Lockheed spyplane is in the final seconds of a long, high-altitude recon mission overflying volatile hotspots to see what the bad guys have been up to lately. Despite the hostile areas it just visited, the most dangerous part of the mission is landing. The U-2 was made to fly, but it’s a handful to land. Its long wings amplify every breeze, but they must be kept level. Just a few degrees off horizontal will drag the wingtip, risking a crash. Those long wings give it so much lift that landing becomes an unnatural act. The technique is to get close to the ground, then stall it and just drop onto the runway. Very tricky.

So tricky that a second pilot, also familiar with the U-2’s quirks, accelerates down the runway with the U-2 in a high-performance car or “mobile,” spotting the pilot and coaching him down via radio. In service since 1957, some will remember the U-2, a.k.a. the “Dragon Lady,” as the plane in which Gary Powers was shot down over the Soviet Union in 1960, and which detected the Soviet missiles in Cuba in October 1962. It’s not just any car that can hang with jets. Initially the Air Force used Ford station wagons with large V-8s, then switched to El Caminos from the ’70s through 1986. But when GM announced the El Camino’s discontinuation in 1987, the USAF began looking for a replacement that would be up to the challenge. The search began in 1986 at Beale Air Force Base near Marysville, California, where the local California Highway Patrol provided one of their light and agile Mustangs for testing. Priorities for the USAF were immediate throttle response and rapid acceleration, which the Mustang delivered in spades. The USAF immediately called the 5.0 Fox-body Mustang into active duty.

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 45

Just 19 Special Service Package (SSP) Mustang LX 5.0L coupes were built for USAF use between 1986 and 1991. One of the eight ordered in 1988 is our feature car, owned by Keith Suzuki of Concord, California. Prior to its delivery to Beale AFB, this automatic transmission–equipped LX was resprayed in nonmetallic USAF Strato Blue over the factoryapplied Dark Shadow Blue Metallic. The black alloy wheels were shot in the Strato Blue as well. From there a two-way aircraft radio, an aircraft-type wedge antenna, a Whelen Edge amber lightbar, and USAF “Official Use Only” door decals were added.

46 FOXMustangMagazine.com

The Mustang was then tagged “United States Air Force Mobile Unit One,” and its identification number was stenciled under the hood: 88B 9971, AFE RAF A, which decodes to its USAF license number, Air Force Europe, Royal Air Force-Alconbury. It was then placed in a transport plane with an identical ’88 SSP tagged “Mobile Unit 70” and flown to RAF Alconbury in England where it would serve for a number of years with the 17th Reconnaissance Wing and the 95th Reconnaissance Squadron. RAF Alconbury was the largest U-2 base outside the United States. There were originally three Mustangs stationed there — an ’86 and the two ’88s, but by the time the Persian Gulf War got underway, the ’86 had been totaled and only the ’88s remained. While stationed in England, the last pilot to crash a U-2 at Alconbury survived and rode from the crash site in this Mustang. In the excitement, he left his hat

in the car where it was later discovered between the seats during the restoration. His name and the three U-2 bases he served at are written inside the hat. In March 1995, Unit One was sent to the English RAF-Fairfield Station before being transferred to serve at Istres Air Force Base in France in January 1996 and later to the Aviano and Sigonella Air Force Bases in Italy. Mobile One was taken out of service in October 1999, stripped of its lightbar and radio equipment and sold through the DRMO in Aviano, Italy. American serviceman Michael Abela was stationed in England and purchased it. He drove it across Europe to Calais, France, and hitched a ferry ride to England. The Mustang was then shipped back to the States, and approximately a year later it was purchased by Charles Ricks. Charles had Mobile One shipped from New York to his home in Hanford, California, and prepared for the subsequent restoration. Hours of research were done before the restoration in 2002 to make sure everything was accurately reproduced. He even

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 47

tracked down an original lightbar. With 53,000 ticks on the odometer, Charles stripped the Mustang down to a shell. Engine bay, underside of the decklid, and doorjambs were all correctly resprayed in the factory Dark Shadow Blue, while the exterior and wheels were reshot in Air Force Strato Blue. No mirror-like finish here as the paint was left with some orange-peel texture and overspray to reflect how the Air Force would have originally painted the vehicle. Also, precautions were taken to preserve the original USAF stenciling under the hood. Concord, California, resident Keith Suzuki entered the picture in October 2003. As a citizen volunteer for the Concord Police Departmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Neighborhood Patrol Division, Keith had always yearned for a Police Package Mustang. He stumbled upon the USAF Mustang while searching the www.sspmustang.org

48 FOXMustangMagazine.com

website’s For Sale section, and since Charles’ Hanford residence was just three hours away he decided to have a look. Keith was sold on it immediately after seeing that the extremely rare car was almost completely restored, had great documentation, and could be driven legally in California sporting its amber lightbar. Keith took the car home and prepared to have it ready for the upcoming show season. He immediately installed the lightbar that Charles had acquired, and added the light switches, USAF door decals, aircraft antennas, and radio microphone. Keith continues to search for the correct aircraft band radio, but with no photographs of interior shots of the U-2 chasers, he doesn’t exactly know what he should be looking for. He also set out to correct some detail items in the engine compartment. SSP Mustangs came with few frills and were meant to be all business — vinyl seats instead of cloth, crank windows, block-off plate instead of

power door-lock switch, and a radio without the tape deck. It does have air conditioning, though. SSP Mustangs have: • relocated trunk-release button • oil-to-water sandwich-style engine-oil cooler • automatic transmission fluid cooler • 130-amp heavy-duty alternator • certified calibration 140-mph speedometer • reinforced floorpans under front seats • deleted underhood sound-absorber pad • single-key locking system • aircraft-style hose clamps • heater-hose restrictor sleeve • full-size spare tire Keith has done very well in show competition. Besides awards in local shows, he won a Gold Award in the Concours Driven class at the ’07 Mustang Club of America show in Concord. Last October he won a First-Place trophy in the Special Service Pursuit Package category at the Ripon Police emergency vehicle show. There’s always a crowd at shows asking what exactly what it is. Keith is extremely happy with his U-2 car. “It’s stealthy,” he says. “It’s not as noticeable as a CHP.” Other drivers on the highway at times refuse to pass him thinking he’s in some sort of in-service patrol unit. Approximately 15,000 SSP Mustang LX 5.0Ls were built from 1982 to 1993, the majority patrolling our highways and catching “bad guys.” Then there are those select few that played a small but important role in our national security. FMM

GENESIS OF THE SPECIAL SERVICE MUSTANG

In 1982, when the California Highway Patrol asked the Ford Motor Company to produce a capable and lightweight police cruiser, the CHP’s image at the time was taking a beating because of the lackluster performance of the 318-powered Dodge Diplomat. Ford decided to use “The Boss is Back” 5.0 Mustang and produce a special vehicle that would suit the needs of police and law-enforcement departments. The CHP liked what Ford came up with, and in its first year ordered 406 units. Other departments followed suit, and the Special Service Package Mustang was born. The Mustang was now sworn in “To protect and to serve” the public. Four years later, the Mustang was asked “To protect and to serve” the nation’s global security. Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 49

1988 MUSTANG LX 5.0 SSP Owner: Keith Suzuki Concord, California

Photography by Nelson Cardadeiro

TECH

>>>>

SEAT RE-SEAT Fox Mustang Restoration gives our tired, old interior a retro spin with a TMI Products upholstery kit, Part 2 story and photography by Brad Bowling

ast issue we began the restoration of Fox Mustang seats, beginning with disassembly and cleaning. Now we’re picking up where we left off, rebuilding and reupholstering the seats. Leading the way is Matt Highley of Fox Mustang Restoration in Locust, North Carolina, an experienced Fox restorer. We’re using TMI’s high-quality parts and going step-by-step to show you the professional’s tips and tricks for top results. You don’t need a bunch of special tools (hog ring pliers are required, while upholstery clip removers, though not required, will help the job go faster) or a big budget to tackle this job. Just some shop space, hand tools, and your new foam, upholstery, and a few miscellaneous parts which we’ll show you. With a workbench full of clean parts, we join the job, already in progress. 2. Set the new lumbar airbag in place. Be careful pushing the metal tabs back in place — don’t break them.

1 1, 1A. With shiny, freshly painted black seat parts to work with, Matt addresses one of the Fox Mustang interior’s biggest weaknesses — the tendency of the seat frame to twist out of shape. This “gangster” or “fat man lean” is caused by the tearing of the small welds between two metal panels at the base of the seat. For the average size driver, this damage can occur as early as 60,000-80,000 miles. Matt never rebuilds a Fox Mustang seat without fixing this design flaw. He drills holes next to the original spot welds and reinforces the metal panels with a series of 10 quarter-inch pop rivets, as seen here before the rivet tool breaks off the excess threads. Matt gently taps the “flower” part of the rivet (inset) flat to minimize the sharp edges.

3. The new SVO seatback foam has metal rods and hooks already buried in it as delivered from TMI. We’ve placed the two horizontal and two vertical rods on top to show where they’ll fit when the seat is re-covered. These visible rods will be connected to the buried rods later. 4. Reinstall the seat hinge mechanism to the seatback frame, and connect the cleaned-up black plastic cover. 5. The seatback foam fits easily to the frame. It just slides over the top. 52 FOXMustangMagazine.com

6 6. Automotive upholstery is shipped inside out from the factory, and it should be kept that way until installation. The major seams are sewn with the material inside out (so the stitching remains hidden), and it keeps the covers clean. This is how the main vertical rod will sit in the white fabric channel when the vinyl covers the foam. NOTE: Preparation of the white fabric channels that the vertical and horizontal rods slide into is critical. The main fabric channel is sewn into the main seating surface seam, where it creates a U-shaped loop. It must be cut in four places before installation. Toward the top, there is a diagonal seam on either side. The U-shaped channel must be cut on both sides of both diagonal seams. This will create a long vertical channel up each side and one horizontal channel across the top. If both cuts are done on the side of the diagonal seam, it will create bunching and pulling on the finished product. You don’t want that! 7. This step requires patience, a good grip, and strong hands. Starting from the top of the seat, Matt works the new cover down over the new foam… 8. …but only far enough to get the first horizontal rod into position.

9. Pushing the first rod in the seat cover down toward the rod hidden in the foam,… 10. …Matt connects the two with a series of three hog rings. Repeat for the second horizontal rod at the halfway point of the seatback. 11. After pulling the upholstery completely down the seatback, Matt slides the first vertical rod into the fabric channel where it will hook to the foam’s inner metal frame at the top of the seat. The vertical rod goes over the lower horizontal rod, which will hold down the center seam of the upholstery. 12. The vertical rod attaches to the foam’s inner frame at the base of the seat by several hog rings. The factory used an inch-wide band here, but three or four smaller hog rings serve the same purpose. 13. Be sure the foam “flap” at the bottom folds neatly over the seatback’s metal frame. This flap protects the upholstery from wearing against the metal. At this point, the vinyl can be sealed shut by squeezing two plastic channels together. 14. Now we turn our attention to the seat base. Fox Mustang Restoration’s kit includes a much improved flat spring grid as well as new coiled mounting springs. FMR’s vinyl-covered grid should prevent rust for many years. Matt uses strong wire cutters to cut the new seat spring grid to fit the seat base.

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 53

TECH

>>>>

17 15. Matt attaches the grid to the metal tabs at the front of the seat frame, and then uses pliers to pull each coiled spring into place. Here is what the seat bottom looks like before the foam goes on. If the original holes are stretched, you can drill new holes next to the old ones for a tighter spring. 16. Just like the seatback, the bottom foam also has a hidden metal frame to which we’ll attach the upholstery with hog rings.

17. Getting the first hog ring to connect the adjustable side bolster to the bottom seat foam requires cutting a vertical slit in the foam. The slit won’t be visible once the upholstery is in place, but don’t make it any higher than necessary. 18. It’s a good idea at this point to use a small screwdriver to make a hole in the rear of the foam for the lumbar-support air-bladder hose. 19. Cut the foam from where the lumbar power switches will go (left side for driver, right side for passenger).

20. The seat bottom foam, upholstery, rods, and hog ring clips go together just as on the seatback. 21. Once the clips and rods are in place, the white plastic channels attach easily to the seat-bottom’s frame.

22. After carefully locating the opening for the power lumbar-support switch, Matt cuts a small slit in the upholstery and feeds the switch back into its position against the seat frame. The screws and faceplate go on next. Do the same to reattach the side bolster knob. 23. Here’s everything we need to create a thigh support from top to bottom — new foam and upholstery, a new plastic plate on which to mount the pad, and the metal platform we restored earlier.

22 54 FOXMustangMagazine.com

24. After placing the foam neatly into the new upholstery, Matt puts the new black plastic plate on top and curls the vinyl down onto it. Using his free hand, he uses an automatic staple gun to secure the upholstery to the plate.

25. Here’s the finished thigh support. The restored metal plate is ready to be attached to the underside of the seat frame using the kit’s new bolts. 26. The restored thigh support slides back into the front of the seat. Matt installs roll pins to prevent the adjustable support from backing out. 27. Because we chose a low-profile, Mach 1-style headrest for this seat project, FMR swapped our tall model for some parts from its shelves. Matt disassembles the nasty old headrest by pulling two square-headed nails from the base. Be careful when performing this step. The nails and pressed board will be reused.

28. After skinning the old headrest down to bare foam, Matt places a plastic grocery bag around the foam so the new upholstery can be worked into place easier. Note that the headrest is not symmetrical from front to back, so both foam and upholstery fit in one direction. Eyeball this before you install them. 29. After a good bit of coercion, the cover and foam come together. Matt removes any sign of the white plastic bag by pulling it out in shreds. The old pressed board slides back into place, and Matt positions the old nails just a hair away from their earlier holes so there’s fresh material to hold them. 30. Now it’s time to bring together the components we’ve been working on. Using a small Phillips-head screwdriver, Matt makes incisions in the upholstery and feeds the bolts that hold the seat’s hinge mechanism. 31. Opposite the two bolts, Matt replaces the old seatback pivot bushing with a new unit. 32. The cleaned-up hinge mechanism bolts should go in without any trouble. Don’t crossthread that bad boy.

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 55

TECH

>>>> 33. Feel around the lower outboard side of the seat back to locate the still-hidden seat-latch switch. Use a sharp knife to free the metal lever, and then install the new plastic bezel and knob. NOTE: When making cuts in your new upholstery, make them only as big as necessary. 34. After feeling carefully for the channel opening beneath the vinyl, Matt cuts a slit just wide enough for the headrest mount’s plastic housing. When properly installed, the housing locks itself against the metal frame inside the seat. The headrest fits easily into the plastic housing.

REAR SEAT 35. The rear seat bottom could not be easier to restore. It’s nothing more than a single piece of foam cast around an inner framework, with upholstery held on with hog rings around the outer perimeter. 36. After turning the cushion upside down, Matt cuts all hog rings, and the upholstery falls onto the table. No one reproduces rear-seat foam, so you’ll have to locate a good used piece if yours needs replacing. 37. The new upholstery slides on like a pillowcase. After pulling it tight and adjusting any puckered areas, start working those hog ring pliers.

38. The rear seatbacks work like the front bucket bottoms and backs — foam, rods, and rings. There’s not much new here to show. Disassembly will go much easier if you buy or borrow a pair of these upholstery clip removers. If you want to rough it, a pair of flathead screwdrivers and some careful negotiating will pop the plastic clips apart with no damage. The carpeted panel on the rear seat back must be purchased separately or as part of a carpet kit. 39, 40. The Mach 1/SVO seat without the lowprofile headrest (left) makes a sporty statement that some owners prefer. For those raised on early muscle cars, the low-rise headrest is essential, recalling the popular Mach 1 of 1969-’70. Before installing, the old seat tracks should be treated to the same clean-up treatment as the frames and thigh support. FMM SOURCES FOX MUSTANG RESTORATION 105 Pine Forest Dr. Locust, NC 28097 (866) 496-7320 (704) 888-1278 www.foxresto.com

39 56 FOXMustangMagazine.com

TMI PRODUCTS 1493 Bentley Dr. Corona, CA 92879 (800) 624-7960 (951) 272-1996 www.tmiproducts.com

Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 57

58 FOXMustangMagazine.com

t its debut, the thirdgeneration ’79 Mustang was one of the most dramatic-looking cars on American roads. Its clean, angular styling, was decidedly European and probably not surprising since Ford’s then-Vice President of Light Car and Truck Design, Jack Telnack, spent much of the ’70s at Ford’s European operations, spearheading development of, among other things, the original Ford Fiesta and Mk II Ford Granada. Although larger in every dimension than the Mustang II it replaced, the Fox chassis car was also lighter, thanks to thinner glass, plus greater use of aluminum and plastics in its construction. It was also the most aerodynamic car to emerge from Ford’s U.S. oper-

ations at the time, thanks to a drag coefficient of .46 for the two-door notchback and .44 for the threedoor hatch. Although still boasting the traditional front-engine, reardrive configuration, it was more modern underneath, adopting modified MacPherson strut front suspension and a four-link live rear axle with coil springs instead of semielliptic leaves. The Mustang II’s front disc/rear drum brake setup was carried over, however. The top performer in 1979 was the Cobra, a $1,173 option package on the three-door hatchback that added special paint and decals, a choice of carbureted 2.3-liter turbocharged four-cylinder or 302ci V-8 engines, four-speed manual or three-speed automatic transmission, and a special handling suspension based around Michelin’s metric TRX wheel-and-tire package. Given its fresh styling and intriguing turbo engine, the new Mustang naturally made an ideal choice for pacing the 63rd running of the

Indianapolis 500. As a result, Ford embarked upon a program to produce not only three actual Pace Cars for duty on race day, but also a limited run of 10,478 replicas. These replicas, all based upon the three-door hatchback (body code 61R) were built at Ford’s Dearborn (7,634) and San Jose (2,844) Assembly Plants between April and July 1979. Distinguishing features of the ’79 Pace Car Mustang were special Pewter Metallic exterior paint (with black lower body trim), orange pinstriping, and graphics. The Pace Cars also sported black headlight pockets, unique dual-slat grille, aggressive front air dam housing a pair of Marchal driving lights, and a non-functional cowl hood with the center section painted black like the lower body. Large orange “Mustang” lettering flanked the hoodscoop on each side, while “speeding” pony graphics and Indianapolis Pace Car callouts were emblazoned across each flank. The

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front air dam and the graphics were actually shipped from the factory in cardboard boxes in the trunk, the former to prevent damage during transit because of low clearance, the latter for installation at the buyer’s individual request. Inside, each Pace Car replica sported black upholstery with houndstooth inserts on the front and rear seats. The front seats were extra-cost Recaros sporting rake and lumbar adjustment, as well as unique Halo headrests with gray mesh inserts. Other features included an engine-turned instrument panel; deep-pile, 18-ounce carpeting; standard center console; leather-wrapped steering wheel (though curiously the optional tilt wheel wasn’t leather); intermittent windshield wipers; AM/ FM Premium sound system, and flipup sunroof. Mechanically, the Indianapolis Pace Car replicas were identical to the ’79 Cobra, fitted with either the 2.3-liter turbocharged four-cylinder engine, teamed to a four-speed single-rail Overdrive manual gearbox (production 5,970), or the venerable two-barrel 302 V-8 (production 4,508), which could be teamed with either the four-speed manual gearbox (production 2,402) or threespeed C4 automatic (2,106). In California, neither the turbocharged engine nor the four-speed manual gearbox were available, leaving buyers with just the V-8/automatic combination. Options on the Pace Car replicas included rear/wash wipe, cruise control, air-conditioning, power door locks and windows, and tinted glass. All Pace Car replicas came with the Cobra’s special suspension package, which included handsome, three-spoke 390 x 150mm (15.35 x 5.9-inch) forged aluminum wheels and Michelin’s patented 60 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Original window sticker

Leather-wrapped steering wheel Standard

302 ci (5.0-liter) V-8 Optional

’79 Mustang Pace Car Features

Aggressive front air dam and grille Standard

TRX metric tires (P190/65R390). Although the 131hp 2.3-liter turbo-four drew most of the attention from “buff book” writers in 1979, many of whom believed the V-8 was on borrowed time, in practice, despite a short 3.45:1 rear axle ratio (versus 2.47 on V-8 fourspeeds, 3.08 for automatics) it was still slower than the 140hp 302, which could clock a 0- to 60-mph time of around 9 seconds (Car and Driver actually reported 8.3 seconds for their ’79 V-8 test victim) and cover the standing quarter-mile in under 17. Although decent by late-’70s street-performance standards, for actual Pace Car duty, the stock driveline wasn’t deemed stout enough to keep up with the open-wheel racers on parade laps, thus the three Mustangs selected for real Pace Car duties were given fortified engines, courtesy of Jack Roush Performance. Items included a Holley 600-cfm four-barrel carburetor, ’69 Ford dual-plane high-rise intake manifold, ’71 351 Windsor heads, with 1.84/1.54inch intake and exhaust valves, TRW forged pistons, ’69 Boss 302 connecting rods, ’70 Boss 302 solid-lifter camshaft, and other highperformance features. All of these cars sported modified C4 three-speed automatic transmissions and a special T-top roof conversion designed by Ford’s in-house glass division and fitted by outside contractor Cars & Concepts (street Pace Car replicas all came with a flip-up air roof). The actual Pace Car for the race was driven by ex-Formula 1 Triple World Champion, Jackie Stewart, who at the time worked as a performance consultant for Ford, while the other two Mustangs served as backups. All three actual Pace Cars still survive to this day; one is at Indianapolis in the Speedway Hall of Fame Museum, while the other two are housed in Jack Roush’s personal collection. The ’79 Indy 500 winner, Rick Mears, was given a stock 302/four-speed replica as a prize and not one of the actual Pace Cars, as has often been reported. Among third-generation Mustangs, the ’79 Pace Car replicas were arguably the first to be considered truly collectible and today rank as some of the most interesting and unique of all the Fox-chassis cars.

Rear spoiler and dual exhaust tips Standard

Recaro adjustable front bucket seats Standard

Pewter Metallic paint & Pace Car decal lettering Standard

Houndstooth seat inserts front and rear Standard

Indianapolis Speedway quarter-panel logo Standard

Michelin TRX wheels and tires Standard

Cowl-induction hood Standard

Engine-turned dash (note 306 miles) Standard

Pony logos Standard Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 61

About Our Feature Car As low-mileage Foxes go, this one probably ranks among the best. Purchased new by a collector at Friendly Ford in Miami Beach, Florida, it was ordered with every conceivable option available, save for the tilt steering wheel. Once the owner brought it home, the car was put away in storage for the next three decades, with only 300 miles on the clock. At the time of our photo shoot it was owned by Legendary Motorcar in Halton Hills, Ontario, Canada. This ’79 Pace Car replica still sported its original date-coded Michelin TRX tires, hoses, belts, tags, clamps, and even the original warranty card, still in the packaging. If ever there was an example of an early Fox Mustang time capsule, you’re looking at it.

SPECIFICATIONS: Production

Valve size, intake/exhaust (inches)

1.78/1.46

Exhaust

single pipe, single catalytic converter, single muffler, dual tips

’79 Pace Car replicas

10,478

Turbo/four-speeds

5,970

V-8/four-speeds

2,402

* Refers to 302 V-8

V-8/automatics

2,106

Suspension

Dimensions

Front suspension

modified MacPherson hydraulic shock struts with coil springs and stabilizer bar

Rear suspension

four-bar link and coil spring system

51.8

Steering

power-assisted rack-and-pinion, 16:1 ratio

Front track (inches)

56.6

Brakes, front

Rear track (inches)

57.0

Curb weight (pounds)

2,822

rear

power-assisted 10.06-inch rotors 9.0-inch drums

Base price

$9,012

Tires

P190/65R390 Michelin TRX

Wheelbase (inches)

100.4

Overall length (inches)

179.1

Overall width (inches)

69.1

Height, hardtop and hatchback (inches)

Engine *

Drivetrain * SROD four-speed

4.00 x 3.00

Transmission, manual (standard) automatic (optional)

Displacement (CID/liters)

302/5.0

Axle

7.5-inch open differential

Compression ratio

8.4:1

Horsepower

140 @ 3600 RPM

Ratio, four-speed (standard) automatic (standard)

2.47:1 3.08:1

Torque

250 @ 1800 RPM

Induction

Holley 2150 two-barrel carburetor

Type

V-8

Bore and stroke (inches)

Camshaft

single, in block

Thanks to Bill DeBlois and Legendary Motorcar (www.legendarymotorcar) for their assistance with this article.

C4 three-speed

* Refers to V-8 only Performance * 0-60 (seconds)

8.3

* Car and Driver, September 1979

FMM

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FROM

SLUSHBOX TO SLICK STICK Ditch your automatic Overdrive for exciting, shift-crazy, Tremec TKO five-speed performance story and photography by Jim Smart

hat we’re about to talk about is nothing new. However, the humble transmission swap is more involved than it used to be, especially when you’re going from an automatic to a manual transmission in a Fox Mustang. The ’79-’93 Mustang is more complex than its ancestors, which means a transmission swap takes more time and requires more attention to detail. So, disconnect your battery cable and let’s get started. We look to Julio Mayen of JME Enterprises outside of San Diego, California, to show us the way with this Tremec TKO swap on a ’93 Mustang GT with automatic Overdrive. Julio tells us that when you’re converting an AODequipped 5.0L Mustang to manual

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transmission, you must change out everything connected with the transmission, including electrical components. Here is what you’re going to need. • • • • • • • • •

Transmission (a number of choices including Tremec TKO) Bellhousing with clutch fork 50-ounce offset flywheel with new bolts (correct length) Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch Pilot bearing (not a bushing) Engine/bellhousing separator plate and dust shield Transmission mount and proper crossmember Back-up light plug and harness Driveshaft and yoke (now is the time for new

• • • • • •

U-joints and a slip yoke) Clutch/brake-pedal assembly Short-throw shifter, if you can afford one Clutch cable package Clutch linkage dust cover High-torque starter Longer bellhousing to engine bolts (7/16 x 3 inches) (six)

Before getting started, you need a detailed plan and organized parts list so you’re not fumbling when it’s time to get to work. Few things are more frustrating than lying underneath a car only to discover you’re missing key parts that have to be ordered. Projects derail when you don’t have an advanced plan with all parts on site.

1: This is the Tremec TKO five-speed available from Modern Driveline. It is offered in a variety of configurations. Four different TKO boxes are available in 500- and 600-ft/lb torque capacities. The TKO is here to give you performance and durability thanks to its rugged design and ability to fit just about any Mustang application. Modern Driveline is a Tremec Elite dealer, one of just 13 dealers like it in the country ready to support your TKO swap with outstanding parts and service.

1 Model Number

REMOVAL

2: Centerforce gets you started with its legendary Dual-Friction clutch and 50-ounce offset balance flywheel for 5.0L High Output Mustangs, which yields a softer pedal yet incredible clutch hook-up as rpm builds. JME Enterprises supplies the late-model bellhousing for 5.0L engines with cable clutch release.

Torque Clutch Capacity Type Ft/Lb

Spline 1st Count In/ Out

2nd

3rd

4th

5th Rev

TCET4615 500

Mechanical 10/31

3.27 1.98 1.34 1.00 .68

3.00

TCET4617 600

Mechanical 26/31

2.87 1.89 1.28 1.00 .82

2.56

TCET5008 600

Mechanical 26/31

2.87 1.89 1.28 1.00 .64

2.56

TCET5201 500

Hydraulic

3.27 1.98 1.34 1.00 .68

3.00

26/31

3: If you’re thinking about installing a complete factory clutch release system, think Steeda’s #555-7040 (’83-’95 Mustang) instead of the original self-adjusting clutch quadrant. The factory system doesn’t offer durability or ease of adjustment like Steeda’s heavy-duty, fully adjustable clutch cable system. Count on ease of installation, too. 4: JME Enterprises is going with this special transmission crossmember from HPM Performance Products along with a stock transmission mount for good vibration and noise isolation.

5: The ’93 Mustang GT’s underpinnings demonstrate how involved a transmission swap can get. This is the automatic Overdrive. Where it gets involved is the exhaust system, O2 sensors/leads, shifter, combination Neutral safety/ back-up light switch, and brake/clutch pedal assembly. These are all steps that take time, requiring your close attention to detail. 6: O2 sensors are disconnected. This is the time replace your Mustang’s O2 sensors if they’ve been there a long time. Lifespan for these exhaust oxygen content sensors is 100,000 miles. It’s a good idea to replace all SEFI sensors to get your 5.0L engine’s electronic engine-control system current. 7: Ford makes it easy to remove your 5.0L Mustang’s exhaust system because all connections are ball-and-socket or flange type. Forget the power saw and WD-40 for this task except maybe header flange bolts. Drop the cat/H-pipe package, and transmission access is a cakewalk.

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8: With the AOD properly supported, crossmember and mount removal come next. 9: The original steel driveshaft is disconnected from the rear axle’s companion flange, which calls for a 12mm, 12-point socket or box-end wrench. Soak bolts with WD-40. If that doesn’t work to get them loose, try a little heat concentrated around each bolt. Keep in mind that too much heat will damage your pinion seal.

10: Remove the starter bolts and torque-converter dust cover. The transmission bellhousing to engineblock bolts require an 11/16-inch socket. Other pesky issues include speedometer cable, manual shift linkage, and throttle valve cable. And by the way, you’re going to need longer bolts for the TKO’s thicker bellhousing. 11: Have you disconnected the battery’s negative cable to prevent a short circuit? Starter disconnection and removal come next. Motorcraft starters have a single solenoid-to-starter lead. Nippondenso starters have a battery-to-starter lead and an ignition trigger lead.

12: Disconnect the torque converter from the flexplate. There are four locknuts. Note the torque converter drain plug is carefully nestled in the flexplate passage. It’s easy to get this drain plug incorrectly positioned during an AOD install, which will warp your flexplate. Store this information away for safekeeping. 13: Transmission cooler lines are disconnected using a 1/2-inch open-end wrench. Carefully remove these lines, seal them, and keep them with your AOD transmission. 14: The automatic Overdrive transmission is carefully lowered via a transmission jack. These can be rented. 15: Drill out the shifter cable mount’s rivet.

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16: The cable bracket at the shifter is removed as shown.

17: Up above in the passenger cabin is the AOD shifter. Its removal is where this job gets a little involved. Using a 10mm socket, Julio removes the four corner bolts on the black plastic housing. But the shifter is not free yet. 18: The shifter cable end, which runs underneath the shift handle and housing, is disconnected from the shifter quadrant. 19: Disconnect the automatic shifter light. 20: The console is also attached to the glove compartment and dashboard. Disconnecting the hatch release switch will free up the console. It is removed along with the shifter.

21: This is the ’79-’93 Mustang brake and clutch-pedal assembly, retrieved from a donor car. Now is the time to rebuild with new bushings and hardware to ensure durability and trouble-free performance. Conversion from automatic to manual pedals is covered in depth in the companion story (see page 70). 22: Back underneath, now to the flexplate and separator plate behind it. Remove the six bolts holding the flexplate on, and remove it. Then remove the separator plate. Now is the time to replace the engine’s rear main seal and pan gasket if there are leakage issues, and there probably are. While you’re in there, examine the camshaft block plug and oil galley plugs for leakage.

INSTALLATION

23: The manual-transmission separator plate, a one-piece unit, goes on first. 24: Julio stresses upgrading to a pilot bearing versus a bushing. Bushings are not as forgiving in terms of durability, making the pilot bearing an excellent investment. 25, 25A: Flywheel bolts get a thread locker and are torqued to 75-85 ft/lb in crisscross fashion for even tightening. Torque bolts in one-third values — 28 + 28 + 29 ft/lb for example, if you’re going for a total of 85. Double-check torque spec with your service manual. Flywheel surfaces are cleaned with a high-evaporative solvent like brake cleaner. Keep your fingers off contact surfaces. Skin oil is just as detrimental to friction surfaces as gear lube or motor oil.

25A

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26: Bolt your bellhousing to the transmission. TKO calls for a standard production ’82-’93 5.0L T5 five-speed cable-clutch bellhousing and fork, available from Modern Driveline.

27: A Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and pressure plate are installed next using the alignment tool provided by Centerforce. Get the pressure plate and clutch disc perfectly aligned. Then use a thread locker on bolts, torquing them in crisscross pattern to 12-20 ft/lb. As with the flywheel, do this in third- or half-value increments. Never tighten one bolt all the way before all are at least snugged. 28: We’re going with the Power Tower shifter from PRO-5.0, available from JME Enterprises for the Tremec TKO five-speed. Once installed, no one knows it’s there until they grab it and feel its nice, tight throws that are fully adjustable. It’s machined from solid steel. 29: The Tremec TKO is a tight fit but will clear your Fox’s transmission tunnel with room to spare.

30: There are six bellhousing bolts to tighten using an 11/16-inch socket. Bolts from your AOD will not work — they’re not long enough. Visit your nearest Lowe’s and pick up six Grade-8, 7/16 x 3-inch-long, coarse-thread bolts and lock washers. 31: Speedometer cable installation, in this case mechanical cable drive, is next. Julio has lubricated the gear and we’re good to go. 32: The transmission mount and HPM Performance crossmember install next using factory hardware. 33: Our starter is installed next with battery lead and ignition leads.

34: An Inland Empire Driveline aluminum driveshaft is installed to reduce driveline rotational weight and free up power. 35: A Steeda clutch cable is installed next and properly adjusted. Adjust the clutch to your comfort based on desired pedal-engagement depth. The release bearing touches clutch fingers all of the time in this application. It’s a matter of how much pressure there is before the clutch releases. You want firm engagement yet minimal pedal travel. Don’t forget the clutch-fork dust cover.

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36: The last detail is the TKO back-up light switch. You’ll need the correct back-up light switch harness, or you may fabricate your own. Salvage yards are full of manualtransmission donor cars good for parts.

SOURCES CENTERFORCE 2266 Crosswind Dr. Prescott, AZ 86301 (928) 771-8422 www.centerforce.com INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE 4035 E. Guasti Rd., Ste. 301 Ontario, CA 91761 (800) 800-0109 www.iedls.com

JME ENTERPRISES 15335 Castle Peak Ln., Bldg. A Jamul, CA 91935 (619) 669-9904 www.jmeenterprises.com MODERN DRIVELINE 25308 Arroyo Ct. Caldwell, ID 83607 (208) 453-9800 www.moderndriveline.com

STEEDA AUTOSPORTS 1351 NW Steeda Way Pompano Beach, FL 33069 (954) 960-0774 www.steeda.com

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AUTOMATIC TO MANUAL

PEDAL CONVERSION If you’re going five-speed, you’ve got to have a clutch pedal. JME Enterprises shows you how to get it. story and photography by Jim Smart

1 1, 2: Shown here are automatic (left) and manual (right) pedal-support assemblies. Aside from the clutch pedal, the manual pedal support has a clutch-pedal safety switch, preventing the engine from accidentally starting the engine in gear. It works through the same circuit as a neutral safety with an automatic. You can replace the entire pedal assembly or add the clutch pedal to an existing support. There’s also an automatic clutch-cable adjustor which must be added. The basic pedal support stamping is the identical.

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o convert from an AOD to a fivespeed, you’ll need infrastructure in the form of a brake/clutch pedal assembly for it all to work together. You can approach this change a couple of ways. You can swap in just the clutch pedal and safety switch, or you can change out the entire pedal assembly with one from a donor car. Both involve some work, but both can be done in your garage without special tools. And while you’re doing a pedal swap, adding a Steeda adjustable clutch cable kit will improve durability and enable you to adjust clutch-pedal engagement height to your tastes. As long as you have the pedal assembly apart, install new bushings and a brake light switch.

3, 4: The clutch-pedal/support assembly includes the clutch-pedal safety switch.

INSTALLING THE STEEDA ADJUSTABLE CLUTCH PEDAL SYSTEM

5: The Steeda adjustable clutch-pedal system is easy to install, especially if your pedal support assembly is out of the car. It adjusts at the clutch fork and at the firewall. 6, 7: To install, remove the automatic cable adjustor as shown, including this spring and nylon tensioner. 8, 9: Install the Steeda quadrant. This billetaluminum quadrant replaces the factory selfadjusting unit, increasing durability and adjusting the clutch pedal to your desired pedal height. 10: Steedaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clutch cable quadrant, as it should appear installed. 11, 12: The clutch cable conduit is modified to fit into Steedaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s firewall adjustor.

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15 13: To make pedal support service easier, remove the driverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seat, which calls for the removal of four retaining nuts and the disconnection of your seatbelt sensor. Next, use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the steering column collar. 14: For quick assembly on the line, the dashboard base cover pops out without tools.

15: Using a 10mm socket, remove cross brace bolts, then the cross brace. You now have access to the steering column and pedal support. 16: Remove the steering column firewall grommet. Be careful not to damage the boot, but be prepared to replace it. Move the heater duct out of the way. 17: This steering column bracket comes out next. 18: Using a large metric socket, remove the two steering column brackets. Remember, most Fox-body fasteners are metric, except for 5.0L engines, which are SAE.

19: Unplug the remaining electrical connections. This is an integral part of the ignition switch and locking steering column. 20: Moving around to the engine side of the firewall, this bolt joins the steering column and pinion shaft. Loosen it. 21: The steering column is free to be removed and set aside.

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22: Now on to the pedal support assembly. Like the classic Mustangs, Fox-body Mustangs employ the same brake light switch and twopin plug. Disconnect it and remove the switch. Above the brake light switch is the cruisecontrol disengagement switch, which must also be removed and pushed aside.

23: Unbolt the pedal support from the firewall. 24: Next, unbolt the pedal support from the dashboard and remove it.

ASSEMBLY

25: At the firewall, the Steeda clutch adjustment collar is test-fit into the existing hole in the firewall. With a pencil or scribe, mark where the mounting hole will be drilled. Then drill a 1/8-inch hole in the firewall. 26: Install the collar with the sheetmetal screw provided.

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27: Steeda’s adjustable firewall collar is installed next. 28: Grab your replacement manual-pedal assembly. Before you bolt it in place, feed the clutch cable through the firewall. 29: The cable end goes into the billetaluminum Steeda quadrant under the dash, and the cable locks into the collar on the firewall.

30: Bolt the pedal assembly to the dashboard and firewall, just like it was. The installed pedal assembly should look like this. 31: When reinstalling the steering column, pay extra careful attention to the reconnection of the ignition switch, turn signal, warning flashers, cruise control, and horn. Take your time and get this right — no pinched wires, loose connections, or sloppy workmanship allowed. 32: Once everything is bolted in correctly and hooked up, go over it again and make sure all connections and fasteners are in the right place, and everything works smoothly. Don’t forget to tighten the steering-column coupling bolt under the hood.

33: Down under, the last chore is clutch-cable adjustment. You want a comfortable clutch action, but don’t overtighten or slippage can burn up your new clutch. Don’t forget the dust cover. Replacements are available from Modern Driveline, if needed.

FMM

SOURCES

JME ENTERPRISES 15335 Castle Peak Ln., Bldg. A Jamul, CA 91935 (619) 669-9904 www.jmeenterprises.com MODERN DRIVELINE 25308 Arroyo Ct. Caldwell, ID 83607 (208) 453-9800 www.moderndriveline.com

32 74 FOXMustangMagazine.com

STEEDA AUTOSPORTS 1351 NW Steeda Way Pompano Beach, FL 33069 (954) 960-0774 www.steeda.com

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10-HOLE

TRANSFORMATION Giving your Fox Pony’s OE wheels a new lease on life story and photography by Huw Evans

s with vintage muscle cars, for many 5.0powered Fox Mustangs the factory wheels were often the first things to go. Why run a set of 15x7-inch 10-holes or turbines when you could spring for a set of 16-inch ponies, Weld Draglites, or 17-inch Cobra Rs? And as for fivelug conversions — well, you can say goodbye to your four-bolt factory rims forever. As a result, for many years, turbines and 10-holes were sold, junked, or dumped in the back of the garage with the pile of other unwanted parts. Ford literally made millions of

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these wheels, so even today, more than 20 years after the last 5.0L Mustang rolled out of Dearborn Assembly, they’re still relatively plentiful used. They can frequently be sourced online, via swap meets, or even garage sales across the land, often for pocket change. However, most of them have seen better days. A combination of 20-plus years in circulation and neglect means that often, if they’re not bent, the finish is either dirty, damaged, or both. If you’re embarking on a restoration of your favorite Fox Mustang, there’s no question that a nicelooking set of factory wheels is

the icing on the cake. Yet if your car originally came with 15-inch rims, in most cases you’ll have to salvage the originals or other used examples to get the desired results, since reproduction turbines and 10-holes in the stock size are not available and N.O.S. examples are hard to come by and very expensive. Thankfully, the task isn’t as difficult as it might seem, with a growing number of aluminum wheel refinishing services able to assist. Follow along with FOX Mustang Magazine as our set of classic 10-holes are transformed from sad to showroom.

1: Our Fox wheel restoration started out with a complete set of 15x7-inch, cast-aluminum, 10-hole wheels acquired in a swap. With a set of discount, hard-as-rock, and slightly dry-rotted 225/60/R15 radials mounted, these wheels have clearly been in storage for a long time. 2: One of the biggest problems with these wheels is the clearcoat finish. Chips and nicks from road debris, as well as previously ham-fisted applications of wheel weights on the outside edge of the rim (for balancing during tire installation), have created cracks in the clearcoat. Moisture, air, along with brake dust and road grime have caused corrosion between the clearcoat and aluminum. In addition, it looks like an animal of some kind has relieved itself on one of the wheels. As you can see, the result is pretty nasty. 3: The back is just as bad. Maximum funk. The only way to get rid of it is to have the wheels blasted, painted, and machined.

4: To bring our 10-holes back to life, we enlisted the help of Oliver Arpagaus at Carcone’s Auto Recycling in Aurora, Ontario, Canada. Carcone’s is one of the premier facilities of its kind in North America and has been refinishing aluminum wheels of all shapes and sizes for 16 years. With state-ofthe-art equipment, Carcone’s is able to restore just about any OEM or aftermarket alloy rim to as good as new. 5: The first task being the removal of the tires, Oliver sprays on some tire lube to make the process easier.

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6: Next, the wheel is placed on a balancer to ensure it’s straight. Carcone’s will repair aluminum wheels with minor damage but avoids rims suffering from buckles or cracks. “Some shops will repair bent or broken wheels,” says Oliver, “but when you have that kind of damage, the structural integrity of the wheel is compromised, and it will eventually fail, even if repaired.” Carcone’s regularly ships wheels to OE manufacturers for stress and radial testing. Time and again, cracked wheels that were repaired have failed during the tests. 7: Apart from the soiled finish, our 10-hole didn’t show any signs of damage, so the next task is sandblasting to remove the grime and old paint. Because aluminum is softer than steel, aluminum-oxide powder is used to blast the wheel, allowing paint removal without damaging the metal surface. At Carcone’s, the process takes around 30 minutes per wheel. 8: Once the wheel is finished in the blaster, Oliver sprays it with an air gun to remove loose aluminum-oxide particles, in order to prevent contaminating the paint finish.

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9: It’s time to paint. For spraying smaller parts like wheels and other components, Carcone’s uses a cross-draft spray booth. The paint we’re using for this application is STAND-OX water-borne aluminum paint to replicate the factory color. Gentle strokes with the spray gun on both the front and back result in complete coverage of paint on our 10-hole. 10: Compared to older, solvent-based finishes (most of which have now been banned by the EPA), water-borne finishes take longer to dry, especially in hot, humid weather. Carcone’s has helped deal with this problem by rigging up an old wall-mounted air conditioner to a cabinet. By placing the wheel on the shelf inside, the A/C helps speed up the drying process. It normally takes about 15-20 minutes under these conditions for the paint to dry.

12A

13A

11: Once the paint is dry, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to machine the surface to achieve the polished lip and hub outer surface these wheels had from the factory, which means mounting the wheel on a computerized lathe. 12, 12A: The CNC lathe operates on precise coordinates for each wheel, which are found in this Hollander Wheel Interchange Manual. As you can see, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s even a listing for our beloved 10-hole. 13, 13A: Having input the data into the latheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s computer (which is only required once and then stored in its memory for future use), the machine gets to work. It uses a diamond-edge tip to smooth the surface of the wheel and remove as little material as possible. To prevent friction and damage to both the surface of the wheel and the tip, a special coolant is injected onto the edge of the tip as the wheel rotates on the lathe. 14: After the first go on the lathe, a file is used to remove any burrs or other imperfections on the outside edge of the wheel, particularly the 10-hole spoke inserts, which are notorious for blemishes.

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16 15: The wheel is rotated on the lathe a second time, using a slower feed rate to ensure a nice, smooth finish. 16: A good old soap and water rinse are absolutely critical to remove any contaminants, such as remaining coolant residue and metal particles from the lathe. If not removed, these will damage both the aluminum and clearcoat once applied.

17: Now it’s time to apply the clearcoat for that Original Equipment look. The clearcoat goes on as a powder but turns clear during the curing process. 18: After the clearcoat has been applied, our 10-hole is delicately placed into an oven, heated to 352 degrees Fahrenheit (178 degrees Celsius). Oliver recommends a curing time of 23 minutes for best results. Once the wheel is removed from the oven, he also recommends allowing the wheel to sit overnight before handling it to ensure the clearcoat has cured completely.

19: And that’s it. Compare our newly refinished 10-hole to one of the other ratty examples we brought in. Looks better than new, doesn’t it? And all for much less than the cost of a N.O.S. piece. FMM Acknowledgement: FOX Mustang Magazine would like to extend its thanks to Oliver Arpagaus for his assistance with this article.

SOURCE

19 80 FOXMustangMagazine.com

CARCONE’S AUTO RECYCLING 1030 Bloomington Rd. Aurora, ON L4G 0L7 Canada (800) 263 2022 www.carcone.com

ne of the big advantages of nitrous-oxide systems is their ability to be concealed. This was much more important when use of nitrous oxide was relatively new and popular with the streetracing crowd. When big money was bet on clandestine backstreet races, hiding the potential within your car (or motorcycle) was a big deal. Today, nitrous oxide is relatively common, and hiding it is much less of a concern. But, for those who still enjoy the lure of a “sleeper,” here are some setups that work great and remain out of sight.

NOS’ Top Shot is a cylindrical injector module that uses the carburetor as the mixer and uses adjustable flare jets. The Top Shot is mounted to the air cleaner stud and is totally hidden. Nitrous oxide is fed to the Top Shot from a well-hidden line located at the rear of the intake manifold, and the unit touts a Thermal Safety Switch in the event of a carburetor backfire. Horsepower increases of 75 to 150 hp on stock engines and 100 to 150 hp on modified engines are possible.

TOP SHOT The “Top Shot,” originally branded by Nitrous Oxide Systems in the mid-’80s, employs a simple, self-explanatory principle — it uses the carburetor as a mixer with a cylindrical injector module attached to the carburetor/air filter-cover stud. It comes complete with a thermal safety switch (TSS) in case of carburetor backfire. The Top Shot is totally hidden and utilizes N 2O and fuel flare jets to

produce an increase of 75 to 150 hp on stock engines, and 100 to 150 hp on modified engines. However, NOS wasn’t the first N 2O manufacturing company to come up with the hidden system. That was Ron Hammel from 10,000 RPM Speed Equipment, one of the original developers of street/strip automotive N 2O systems. Hammel’s invention, however, didn’t employ the actual Top Shot

sprayer-solenoid principle. True, his High-Speed RPM Power Ring also went on top of the carburetor as a mixer, but it was not attached to the air cleaner stud like the Top Shot. When attached to one of 10,000 RPM’s four-barrel carburetor plates, it was still a onestage system, but looked and acted like a two-stage system. Tests indicated a gain of up to 50 hp when used with the aforementioned carburetor plate. One of Hammel’s fuel pressure regulators was also required to increase pressure because you were adding 0.5 psi per horsepower per hour. Also recommended for use with this application was 10,000 RPM’s Stage-V nitrous solenoid valve. Although the company no lon-

ger actively promotes the HighSpeed RPM Power Ring, it is still available.

STREET HEAT

A similar product is the 20 to 100hp Street Heat portable N 2O system being marketed by Compucar Nitrous. This system (contained in a gym bag) can be installed on any vehicle in 10 minutes or less, typically through the air intake tube of a late-model EFI car or through the carburetor lid of a traditionally carbureted car. It draws its electrical power from the cigarette lighter or power port. (For more information on the Street Heat system, contact the manufacturer.) Also available on the market is a series of compact, easy-to-

install nitrous kits capable of being used on applications from Harley-Davidsons to ATVs / Jet Skis to the most popular makes of carbureted and EFI-controlled light-duty cars and trucks. Of course, horsepower is limited by jetting and the amount of fuel available. Since these kits typically rely on a 10-ounce bottle of nitrous, they can’t be expected to produce much power for very long. With these systems, it is also necessary to richen the jet on the carburetor to compensate for the extra shot of nitrous, since no additional fuel source is being utilized.

SNEAKY PETE

The NOS Sneaky Pete is a portable cheater system. This kit (PN 05090NOS) comes complete

The NOS Sneaky Pete was designed to obtain an extra tenth of a second and an extra 15 to 25 hp without being obvious. Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 83

with a compact, easy-to-conceal, 10-ounce N2O bottle; a single N 2O solenoid; nylon nitrous supply line; wiring; a 9-volt tandem battery pack; and an assortment of jets. The NS version is known as Little Sneaky (PN 06090NS). It also offers performance gains of 15 to 25 hp and operates on two 9-volt batteries wired in parallel.

THE STEALTH NOZZLE

The Stealth Nozzle, designed and created by Scott Vander Schoor from Nightmare Motorsports, is considered a breakthrough product in single-stage N 2O kits. The Stealth Nozzle is mounted in the base of a single-plane, or Air Gap-type four-barrel intake manifold,

Historically, Ron Hammelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 10,000 RPM Speed Equipment was one of the first in the industry to develop a partially hidden N2O system with his High RPM Power Ring. It mounts on top of the carburetor as a mixer. Hammelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s High RPM Power Ring worked in concert with a four-barrel carburetor plate. It was a onestage system acting more like a two-stage, and was governed by a single set of solenoids. Tests revealed that the Power Ring was worth an additional 50 hp when used with a single-stage N2O plate.

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where Stealthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 360-degree nozzle (machined out of 6061 T6 aluminum) delivers a precise and direct shot of N 2O to each intake runner. With the carburetor bolted on, this 75 to 250hp wet nozzle is 100 percent out of sight. The N 2O and fuel lines are routed to the bottom of the nozzle, where they are also accordingly jetted. This single nozzle effectively acts more like a

direct-port nitrous delivery system rather than a fogger setup. At this writing, the list of single-plane Air Gap applications is growing, including all Edelbrock Victor, Edelbrock Victor Jr., and Holley/Weiand raised-floor intakes. Also note that each nozzle has a different spray pattern based on the application, such as both small-block and big-block Fords

Judging from its spray pattern, Nightmare Motorsportsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Stealth Nozzle acts more like a direct-port N2O system, with its 360-degree nozzle that mounts dead center on the floor of an intake.

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and Chevrolets, with the latter including the popular LSX- and LM-Series engines. Available as a kit, all Stealth applications include single-stage Stealth Nozzles, N 2O and fuel solenoids and supply lines, a 10-pound nitrous bottle, and all the wiring and hardware necessary to complete the installation. Heck, Nightmare Motorsports even includes a blocking plate, should you ever wish to remove the system and return to stock.

Opposit Page & Left: The Stealth works with any single-plane intake, such as a conventional Edelbrock Victor, Offenhauser Equipment Company, Blue Thunder, or Edelbrock Victor Jr. 4V intake, or an air–gap-design 4V intake like a Holley-Weiand or Edelbrock. Stealth’s 360-degree, 6061 T-6 aluminum nozzle delivers a precise, direct shot of N2 O and fuel to each individual intake runner. With the carburetor bolted in place, Stealth’s fully adjustable 75 to 250hp wet nozzle is visibly undetectable. The N2 O and fuel lines are routed to the bottom of the nozzle, where they are accordingly jetted. Stealth’s nitrous and fuel solenoids are likewise hidden from sight. Different nozzle patterns are available for different applications. Nightmare Motorsports even provides a block-off plate, should you want to remove your Stealth N2 O system and use it on a different application.

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 87

This article is excerpted from Bob McClurgâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new book, How To Install Nitrous Oxide Systems, published by Car Tech Books. To order, call (800) 551-4754 or go online to www.cartechbooks.com.

FMM

SOURCES COMPUCAR NITROUS 10383 Atomic Rd. N. Augusta, SC 29841 Order Line: (800) 648-7687 compucarnitrous.com NIGHTMARE MOTORSPORTS (515) 238-1024 www.nightmare-motorsports.com

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NITROUS NITROUS FAQS Answers to N2O’s common questions

Q: Will nitrous affect engine reliability? A: The key is choosing the correct horsepower for a given application. A kit that uses the correct factory calibration does not usually cause increased wear. As the energy released in the cylinder increases so do the loads on the various components that must handle them. If the load increases exceed the ability of the components to handle them, added wear takes place. Nitrous kits are designed for use on demand and only at wide-open throttle. Nitrous can be extremely advantageous in that it’s only used when you want it, not all the time. Most nitrous kits are designed for maximum power with reliability for a given application. Q: Can I simply bolt a nitrous kit onto my stock engine? A: Yes. Most manufacturers make systems for virtually any stock engine application. The key is to choose the correct kit for a given application; i.e., fourcylinder engines normally allow an extra 35-75 hp, six-cylinder engines usually work great between 75-100 extra horsepower, small-block V-8s can typically accept up to 150 extra horsepower, and big-block V-8s might accept from 150 to 200 extra horsepower. These suggested ranges provide maximum reliability from most stock engines using cast pistons and cast crank with few or no engine modifications.

Q: What are some of the general rules for even higher horsepower gains? A: Generally, forged-aluminum pistons are some of the best modifications you can make. Retarding ignition timing can also help in higher-horsepower applications. The general rule of thumb that NX (Nitrous Express) uses is 2 degrees for every 50hp gain over 150 hp. So on a V-8 you shouldn’t have to retard the timing any if you are only running 150 hp or less. In many cases a higher-flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher-octane (100+), racingtype fuel may be required as well as spark plugs one to two heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed to 0.025-0.030 inch. For gains over 250 hp, other important modifications could be necessary in addition to those mentioned above. These special modifications may include a forged crankshaft, high-quality race-type connecting rods, a high-output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of the nitrous system, and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more. Q: How does nitrous work? A: Nitrous oxide is made up of

two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36 percent oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks

down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen, the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous â&#x20AC;&#x153;intercoolingâ&#x20AC;? effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60-75 degrees F.

Q: How long will a bottle last? A: This largely depends on the

type of nitrous kit and jetting used. For an NX system, the calculation is you will use 0.8 pounds for every 100 hp per 10 seconds. So if you are spraying 100 hp, you should be able to get six to eight good 10-second runs out of a bottle.

Q: How long can I hold down the nitrous button? A: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to hold down the button until the bottle is empty; however, 15 continuous seconds at a time, or less, is recommended. This is because solenoid magnets can overheat and melt if run longer than 15 seconds. Q: When is the best time to use nitrous? A: At wide-open throttle only (unless a progressive controller is used). Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation. Nitrous can be safely applied above 3,000 rpm under full-throttle conditions. Q: Is nitrous oxide flammable? A: No. Nitrous oxide by itself is

nonflammable. However, the oxygen present in nitrous oxide causes combustion of fuel to take place more rapidly.

Q: Will nitrous oxide cause detonation?

Q: Are there any benefits to chilling the nitrous bottle?

A: Not directly. Detonation is the result of too little fuel present during combustion (lean) or too low of an octane of fuel. Too much ignition advance also causes detonation. In general, most kits engineered for stocktype engines will work well with premium-type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing applications where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard.

A: No. Chilling the bottle lowers the pressure dramatically and will also lower the flow rate of the nitrous causing a fuel rich condition and reducing power. On cold evenings, you might run on the rich side. For optimal running conditions, keep bottle pressure at approximately 1,050 psi (for an NX system; this varies if you are using another brand)

Q: Is there any performance increase in using medical-grade nitrous oxide? A: None. Most sell only the automotive grade, called Ny-trous Plus. Ny-trous Plus contains a minimal amount of sulfur dioxide (100 ppm) as a deterrent to substance abuse. The additive does not affect performance.

Q: Are there benefits to using nitrous with turbo or supercharger applications? A: Absolutely. In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. In addition, both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well, adding to even more power.

Q: Is it a good idea to use an aftermarket computer program in conjunction with an nitrous system?

Q: What affect does nitrous have on an engine with considerable miles on it?

A: Only if the program has been designed specifically for use with nitrous oxide. Most aftermarket programs use more aggressive timing advance curves to create more power for a naturally aspirated motor. This can lead to possible detonation. You may wish to check with the manufacturer of the program before using it.

A: This depends largely on the actual condition of the engine components. Any performance modification to an engine that is worn out or poorly tuned will have detrimental effects. However, an engine in good condition, with good ring and head gasket sealing, should be able to use nitrous without any abnormal wear.

Q: Does nitrous oxide raise cylinder pressure and temperatures?

Q: Will the use of nitrous oxide affect the catalytic converter?

A: Yes. Due to the ability to burn more fuel, this is exactly why nitrous makes so much power.

A: No. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust may actually increase the efficiency of the converter. Since the use of nitrous is Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 91

NITROUS FAQS

normally limited to 10-15 seconds of continuous use, there usually are no appreciable effects. Temperatures are typically well within acceptable standards.

Q: Can high-compression engines utilize nitrous oxide? A: Absolutely. High or low compression ratios can work quite suitably with nitrous oxide provided the proper balance of nitrous and fuel enrichment is maintained. Nitrous kits are used in applications from relatively low-compression, stock-type motors to Pro-Modifieds, which often exceed 15 to 1. Generally, the higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required. Q: Can service-station fuel be used for street/strip nitrous oxide applications? A: Yes. Use of a premium-type unleaded fuel of 92, or greater, octane is recommended for most applications. Many nitrous systems are designed for use with service-station pump gas. However, when higher compression or higher horsepower levels are used, a racing fuel of 100 octane, or more, is a good idea. Q: What type of cam is best suited for use with nitrous oxide? A:

Generally, cams that have less exhaust overlap and more exhaust duration. However, it is best to choose a cam tailored to normal use (when nitrous is not activated) since 99 percent of most vehicle operations is not at full throttle. There are special cam grinds available for nitrous competition which have more aggressive exhaust profile ramping, etc. Since cam selection depends largely on vehicle weight, gearing, etc., it’s best to stick to cam manufacturers’ recommendations for your particular goal.

Q: Should I modify my fuel system to use nitrous oxide? A: Most stock fuel pumps will work adequately for smaller nitrous applications. It’s important to check and see if your pump 92 FOXMustangMagazine.com

can flow enough fuel to your existing fuel system (whether carburetor or fuel injected), as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full-throttle conditions. It may be a good idea to dedicate a separate fuel pump to the nitrous kit.

Q: Which is the best position to mount a nitrous bottle? A: Nitrous bottles come with siphon tubes and, in order to maintain proper nitrous pickup, it’s important to mount the bottle correctly. NX mounts the bottle at approximately 20-30 degrees angle with the valve end higher than the bottom of the bottle. The valve end of the bottle should point to the front of the vehicle, and the label should face straight up. Q: How important is it to use nitrous and fuel filters in a kit? A: Some of the most important components of any nitrous system are nitrous and fuel filters. The filters will keep contaminants from clogging the solenoids and/or jets. Q: What are the advantages of using nitrous compared to other performance options? A: The cost of many other performance options can put you in the poorhouse. Dollar for dollar, you can’t buy more performance with less money than nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be had for a much more reasonable price while still retaining the advantage of a stock engine during normal driving. And, nitrous offers tremendous gains in torque without having to rev the engine to excessive rpm. Q: How do I know how much nitrous is left in the bottle? A: The most reliable method is to weigh the bottle to determine how many pounds remain. When a bottle is near empty (about 20 percent or less nitrous remaining) a surging effect is normally felt.

Q: What is the function of the blow-off safety valve on the bottle? A: It’s very important not to overfill a bottle; i.e., a 10-pound-capacity bottle should not be filled with more than 10 pounds of nitrous oxide by weight. Over-filling and/or too much heat can cause excessive bottle pressures forcing the safety seal to blow and releasing all the contents out of the bottle. Q: Will I have to change my ignition system? A: Most late-model ignition systems are well suit-

ed for nitrous applications. We recommend that you change the spark plugs for a set that are two heat ranges colder and gap them at 0.035 inch.

Q: Can you run nitrous with a manual-trans car? A: Yes. Just make sure that you have the correct

safety equipment before you do so (see below).

WOT (Wide Open Throttle Switch) – It is placed inline with your arming switch, fuel-pressure safety switch, and any other safety devices to activate your nitrous. This can be placed either near the throttle body or a momentary pushbutton underneath the gas pedal for a stealth install. Window Switch – Another wonderful (shouldn’t be without) safety device. A must for a five-speed. It also installs inline with your fuel-pressure safety switch, WOT, arming switch, etc. The window switch does exactly what it says; it’s a window for your nitrous to activate. For example, if you have your window switch setup for 3,000 and 6,000, then the nitrous will only activate between those rpm. It will come on at 3,000 and automatically shut off at 6,000 (providing it’s wired correctly). Some use pills, while others just use dials or dip switches to set the corresponding rpm. FPSS (Fuel Pressure Safety Switch) – This simple little part is very important to have on any/all nitrous systems. Basically, it senses fuel pressure going to the fuel solenoid. If the pressure drops to an unsafe level, it will shut down the nitrous system before severe damage occurs. — from Nitrous Express Inc. FMM

SOURCE NITROUS EXPRESS INC. 5411 Seymour Hwy  Wichita Falls, TX 76310  (940) 767-7694 www.nitrousexpress.com

Q & A

>>>>

FIX

MY FOX by Scott Hoag, MRT Direct

Have a question about your Fox Mustang? Ask our expert, Scott Hoag, former Ford Mustang engineer and Team Manager. Send your questions, and a pic if possible, to brandon@pattersonpublishing.com.

WEARING LEATHER

I own a ’93 GT hatch with 89,000 miles. A previous owner must have let it sit out in the sun because the leather-wrapped steering wheel is shredded. I want to replace it, but not with a vinyl slip-on like they sell in the auto parts stores, or a cheap, lace-up leather one. I want it to look factory. Is there a kit, or some company that makes an exact replacement? Troy LeMay Ankeny, IA

Latemodel Restoration [(866) 507-3786; www.latemodelrestora tation.com] sells a refurbished steering wheel for several different Fox-body Mustang models. The steering wheels do not include the airbag. They’re priced under $350, and if you send back the steering wheel you’re replacing, Latemodel Restoration will refund $100 to you as a core. 94 FOXMustangMagazine.com

photo: Nelson Cardadeiro

THROTTLE THRILLS

My ’86 Mustang 5.0 is getting low on compression and puffing more and more of blow-by. It’s using a couple of quarts of oil in 1,000 miles. I think I’m looking at a rebuild. I’m just wondering, as long as I’ve got the engine opened up, what are some things I should address once I’m in there? I’m talking about things the factory may have done better, such as improvements, upgrades, tips, and things. One thing the forum guys talk about is the alignment of the rear main seal. They say they’re famous for leaking. Is this true, and what else would you recommend I look at with the engine apart? My goal is to have a stocklooking street driver with a little more power and better reliability. “Captain” Curt Creek Kingsport, TN

T5 TOUGH ENOUGH?

Years ago, it seemed to be the consensus that the standard Ford T5 fivespeed transmission was kind of weak and that breaking Second gear wasn’t uncommon for “spirited” drivers. Since I’ve moved to Missouri from Maryland, my new Mustang buds are of a different opinion. They say that the T5 is plenty strong, unless you’re clutch-popping and powershifting and generally acting like a teenager. I drive pretty easy most of the time but have been known to wind it out now and then. What do you think? Is the T5 a rugged box, or is it a couple of hard shifts away from failure? Leo Davis N. Kansas City, MO

The T5 transmission has been put through the paces for many years. From drag racing to road racing, this transmission has seen it all. For someone wanting to build a 900hp car, I would recommend a higher-horsepower type of transmission. But a T5 in a mildly modified or stock Mustang would suit everyday driving around town and the occasional acceleration through the gears. Of course, if inappropriately used or mistreated, anything can be broken no matter the amount of horsepower or driver’s level of experience.

SEEING THE LIGHT

Yes, the rear main seal has been a gremlin with the pushrod 302 motors. Proper alignment will ensure an oil-leak-free driveway. If you’re planning a complete rebuild, I suggest having a machine shop check the cylinder bore and deck for any inconsistencies. When you rebuild the motor, replacing all seals, gaskets, bearings, and piston rings is highly recommended. To gain a few horsepower during the rebuild, I would look into swapping the cylinder heads, camshaft, intake manifold, headers, and an exhaust system. Several companies offer a top-end motor kit consisting of cylinder heads, camshaft, intake manifold, and all necessary components to ensure proper fitment and function. These kits typically start around $2,000. If this route isn’t in your budget, I would consider the Ford Racing “E” Camshaft and Ford Racing’s stainless steel shorty headers. The depth of your pockets will be the determining factor of how much horsepower will be achievable.

I just paid $70 to get my headlights buffed out, and to tell you the truth, they look better but still not like they should. Can you recommend a kit or a brand that gives good results? Or is it better to just get new plastic? What about bulbs? Should I change from the factory bulbs? Do they really light up the road better? Milton Claymore Tucumcari, NM

Buffing the headlights is only part of the process in restoring vehicle lights. The best method to restore lights it to actually sand off the top layer of clearcoat, then prep the surface and apply a new top clearcoat. This process will remove the faded yellowish appearance of your headlights. If you are concerned about perform-

ing this method on your own, MRT [(734) 455-5807; www.mrt-direct. com] offers a service to restore headlights. If you are not local to MRT, you can ship your lights to us to have the work done. Once completed, we will ship your newly restored lights back to you. The cost is in the $80 range, with an option to “smoke” your lights for an additional $20. The “smoked” is a paint process that will slightly darken the lenses of your headlights, taillights, marker lights, and turn-signal lights. Light-bulb technology has come a long way in the past several years. Swapping your factory bulbs for a pair of halogen bulbs will allow for enhanced vision during night-time driving. Sylvania Silverstar light bulbs produce a brilliant white light that is up to 35 percent brighter than your OEM bulbs.

Issue 2 FOX Mustang Magazine 95

Q & A

>>>>

QUICK-STOP DEEP FREEZE

Tell me what you think about cryogenically-treated brake rotors. The story goes that they’re super cooled down to like 320 degrees below zero, and that makes them harder so they wear longer. A guy in my club put them on his car, which I’ve driven, but I honestly don’t think they feel any stronger than my OEM brakes. What’s your opinion? Lamar Peerless Medina, OH

Superheating or super cooling metal that has been cast allows the molecules to relax. Heat treating and super freezing accomplish the same task, which is normalizing the metal. The difference between a standard rotor and a cryogenically treated rotor cannot be “felt.” It will, however, be apparent in the durability and longevity of the rotor.

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WALKING ON WATER

I wonder if you can help me pinpoint the source of a water leak in my ’85 LX coupe. The passenger-side floor stays damp, and I don’t know where the water’s coming from. The engine cooling system stays full, so I don’t think it’s coming from the heater core. I don’t want the floors to rust. The carpet’s already ruined. I think it may be coming in around the windshield, but I can’t tell for sure. Is there a test I can do to find the leak? Larry Barfield Kenner, LA

Unfortunately, you have entered the world of maintaining an older Mustang. This same issue plagues many Fox-body Mustang owners, and it can be very difficult to locate the root of the problem. The first location I would inspect is the cowl area. Remove the cowl cover located between the hood and windshield. Once the cover is removed, inspect the area for any holes or rust spots. Depending on the severity, a quick fix could be to use a sealing compound such as seam sealer. Use this as a temporary fix until you can repair the area, or have a body shop fix the deteriorating metal. The next area to check is the windshield, or the weatherstripping sealing the windshield to the body. I suggest having a professional remove the glass and weatherstripping. Once removed, inspect the area where the weatherstripping would sit. The solution could simply be new weatherstripping. FMM Scott Hoag, owner of MRT, is a graduate engineer who worked at Ford for 17 years. As program manager at Team Mustang, he was responsible for the ’01 Bullitt and ’03-’04 Mach 1. MRT is approaching its 10-year anniversary and continues to develop new and exciting products for the Mustang lineup.

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