Fox Mustang Magazine | Issue 9

NASA DAY TRIP / BARN FIND 1981 T-TOP

ISSUE 9 5.95

S I Z Z L I N G D R O P -T O P S T Y L E

DIY

POWER: AXLE BEARING R&R RESTO: BRAKE OVERHAUL | CONVERTIBLE HEADLINER RETRO FIT

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Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 3

ISSUE 9 TABLE OF CONTENTS

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76

FIND 1981 T-TOP NASA DAY TRIP / BARN

ISSUE 9 5.95

DEPARTMENTS

O P -T O P S T Y L E SIZZLING DR

6 EDITORIAL

20 EVENTS

8 YOU GOTTA SEE THIS #1

28 NEW PARTS

10 YOU GOTTA SEE THIS #2

30 MUSTANG NATION

14 ORIGINALITY

88 FIX MY FOX

16 FOX NEWS

94 FROM THE ARCHIVES

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DIY

POWER: AXLE BEARING R&R| CONVERTIBLE HEADLINER RETRO FIT RESTO: BRAKE OVERHAUL

ON THE COVER One of the great things about Fox Mustangs is how well they take to custom touches. Mike and Dawn Gonzalez’s ’93 convertible is white, the traditional color for purity. It hits the sweet spot and takes our Issue #9 cover.

Photography by Tom Shaw

COVER STORY 42 THE SWEET SPOT Mike Gonzalez’s tough, tricked ’93 convertible

52 POSTER ’93 convertible

FEATURES

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20 CRUISIN’ WOODWARD Fox cars represent during the Motor City’s annual celebration of the automobile 62 COVER-CAR RECOVERY Judy Neely wanted a Mustang like the one on the brochure.

Thirty years later, so did Frank and Jean Paty 68 NO RESTO NEEDED Nelson Cardadeiro’s lightly used ’89 GT convertible 76 NASA BLASTOFF Rocketing to the Kennedy Space Center in a 5.0 coupe

PERFORMANCE

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54 AXLE BEARING R&R Replacing the rear-wheel bearings in our regularly driven ’86 GT, and determining the right axle ratio and speedometer gears

RESTORATION 34 HEADLINER RETRO FIT Installing a convertible-top headliner on ’83-’93 Mustangs 84 DIY BRAKE JOB The familiar brake job takes a restoration turn

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 5

FROM THE EDITOR

WORKIN’ IT by Tom Shaw

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hen I have a job to do around the brought back to glossy glory. So I winched it up house, like fixing a water leak, hooking on the trailer and headed home with my project. up something electrical, or making Step One was to get it running. That meant some kind of wood repair, I summon my sons dropping it off with my buddy Marc, who to teach them basic skills with tools. The first sorted through the many fuel and electrical thing I tell them is to learn how to make loud malfunctions and at least got the engine to fire. male grunting noises, even if — especially if — Through the rotten pipes and missing mufflers, the job is easy. Clanging tools around helps, too. it sounded good in a redneck sort of way, but It buys points with the wife, who thinks your at least it was running, and Marc told me the exertions are a great sacrifice, at least as long engine was virtually untouched. as the ruse goes undiscovered. Cash in those When Pete Geisler suggested that we move points at a time of your choosing.

Beyond that, wrenching has its good THAT’S ONE OF THE side. We’ve been doing our share of it on GREAT THINGS ABOUT FOX our in-house ’93 GT convertible. So far, with the help of National Parts Depot, MUSTANGS; THEY’RE EASILY Late Model Restoration, Fox Mustang Restoration, and Orlando Mustang, SERVICEABLE... we’ve: it to the Orlando Mustang compound, one • rehabbed the original Vibrant Red paint hundred miles from our Lakeland offices, it • installed new headlight plastic and fog lights seemed like the next logical step. It took a while • painted and installed a new front fascia to get the ball rolling, but lately we’re doing a lot • repainted black and red body trim of wrenching on it, and the ol’ roach is starting • restored/repainted the five-spoke castto look better. I’m getting the itch to drive it, as is aluminum wheels and installed new my 19-year-old son, Austin, who climbs into the BFGoodrich g/Force Super Sport radials driver’s seat and makes sad faces at me.

• rebuilt, or should I say, restored the brakes That’s the payoff of the labor and the money spent. You can see the transformation taking When I rescued the car a couple of years ago, place. You can see the shine of the new parts. it had been sitting a long time, had the bad-gas/ You can hear it when the engine starts. You can dead-battery syndrome, was full of mildew, feel it when you hit the gas and it runs like never spider webs, leaves, ripped top, chalky paint, flat before. tires, etc. What I saw in it was straight, rust-free, It’s still got a long way to go — exhaust, never crashed metal, red body/white leather interior, electrical, and more cosmetics. But it’s interior/top, five-speed, 49K on the odometer, getting there, and nothing encourages success and a fire-sale price of just $1,200. like success. Fixing one thing makes you just Naysayers, seeing it at its worst, snickered that much more gung-ho to fix something else. that it was hopeless junk, but I’ve seen far worse Last issue I used the Eastwood Soda Blaster to

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clean up a few parts. It did such a good job, I want to keep going and clean up more: brackets and alternator cases and cable jackets and cooling fins.

That’s one of the great things about Fox Mustangs; they’re easily serviceable, unlike a laptop or phone or TV. A few simple hand tools go a long way when you’re working on a Mustang. The V-8, rear-wheel-drive layout still works so well after lo these many decades.

It invites the mechanically minded to come and play. Time spent wrenching on the Mustang has a powerful payoff. Some things seem like drudgery — washing dishes, mopping. I even hate yard work.

But time under the hood, making things better, improving my car, its look, its function, is time well spent — solving the mysteries of a difficult malfunction, conquering the things that don’t work right for reasons unknown.

Peter Geisler did some careful examination and found a ground wire that had been chewed by whatever was nesting in the cowl. After repairing it, the electric windows are operable again. Just before the ’93 was sent to Orlando Mustang, it started making a gawd-awful clunk and pitching sideways when I first applied the brakes in the morning. In the brake job story in this issue, we discovered why.

There’s satisfaction for the mechanic and restorer. I suppose that’s why so many restorers don’t stop after just one car.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 7

YOU GOTTA SEE THIS Woodward After Dark Some things never change, like banging gears between stoplights on Detroit’s legendary Woodward Avenue as countless enthusiasts have done on warm summer nights for decades. Woodward, that fourlane swath of asphalt, commerce, and communities, stretching 27.2 miles from downtown Detroit north to the suburbs, is celebrated every August with the Woodward Dream Cruise, drawing over a million spectators and many thousands of classics, hot rods, muscle cars, and Fox Mustangs.

Looks like the Mustang’s got him by a nose.

— Barry Kluczyk

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YOU GOTTA SEE THIS On Duty Tom and Cheryl Mallette of Houston, Texas, purchased this Texas Highway Patrol unit with a 302 V-8 at a DPS (Department of Public Safety) auction in 1991. The car had already logged over 200,000 miles patrolling the Lone Star State. The restoration was quite an effort. Today the Mallettes have no qualms driving this “high mileage” eye catcher/thief catcher to car shows all over the country.

— photography by Jim Kreuz

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PUBLISHER

CURT PATTERSON curt@pattersonpublishing.com

EDITOR

TOM SHAW tom@themustangmagazine.com

MANAGING EDITOR

BRANDON PATTERSON brandon@pattersonpublishing.com

COPY EDITOR

LAURA BURKE

ART DIRECTOR PHILIP PIETRI

GRAPHIC DESIGNER DANIEL BARCELO

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR

JASON JACOBS jason@pattersonpublishing.com

MUSTANG NATION / EVENTS DIRECTOR JASON JACOBS jason@pattersonpublishing.com

WEB MARKETING

BRANDON PATTERSON brandon@pattersonpublishing.com

ADVERTISING SALES TEAM

CURT PATTERSON JASON JACOBS BRANDON PATTERSON

OFFICE MANAGER DEB PATTERSON

COLUMNISTS

MATT HIGHLEY KEVIN MARTI TERRY McCOYY

CONTRIBUTORS

NELSON CARDADEIRO COLIN DATE HUW EVANS BARRY KLUCZYK JIM KREUZ FRANK AND JEAN PATY

DIGITAL EDITIONS #1-#7 OF FOX MUSTANG MAGAZINE NOW AVAILABLE FOR VIEWING AND FOR PURCHASE!

vISIT

WWW.FOXMUSTANGMAGAZINE.COM

PUBLISHED BY PATTERSON PUBLISHING CURT PATTERSON JASON JACOBS BRANDON PATTERSON STEVE BROWN FOX Mustang Magazine is published bimonthly by Patterson Publishing, P.O. Box 41, Lakeland, FL 33802.

Subscription Rates (bimonthly frequency): U.S. 6 issues $20.00; Canada add $15 per year for postage. All other countries add $25 per year for postage. U.S. Funds only. Allow 6-8 weeks for new subscriptions.

Send address change to FOX Mustang Magazine, Customer Service, P.O. Box 41, Lakeland, Florida 33802. Customer Service (877) 279-3010.

“Trust in the Lord with all your heart, and lean not on your own understanding. In all your ways acknowledge Him, and He will direct your paths.”

-Proverbs 3:5-6

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|| Satisfaction Guaranteed! || Exciting variety of interior & exterior styling upgrades! || Over 30 years of automotive manufacturing excellence. || Unrivalled quality, engineering & fit for 1979-1993 Fox Body Mustangs.

Call Toll-Free For a Dealer Near You:

1-855-372-5362 www.DrakeMusclecars.com

A Division of

130 CASSIA WAY • HENDERSON, NV • 89014

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 13

ORIGINALITY

’92 FEATURE CAR — PART 1

by Terry McCoy

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hat is a Feature Car? How was the name chosen? The ’92 Vibrant Red, ’93 Vibrant White, and ’93 Canary Yellow LX 5.0 convertibles were all deemed “Feature Cars.”

During the early stages, the name was discussed and chosen by Ford’s Mustang planner, Joe Laura, and his team. “The car was to spark interest,” says Laura, therefore the name Feature Car was born because of its uniqueness. The ’90 Limited Edition LX 5.0 convertible did so well in sales that Ford wanted to build another special Mustang to generate showroom traffic.

After Laura returned from Desert Storm in 1991, he was assigned

by John Coletti to what we know today as the ’92 Feature Car. The two men shared ideas about what to do to get started on this product.

Laura contacted Cars and Concepts to share some ideas for the upcoming car, as the company was doing the conversions for the convertible tops at that time. It took less than a year from the idea of building this car to a prototype. When the prototype was done, many different parts were used in order to determine what would make it on the production car. For example, the black stitched pony headrest made it on the prototype, but it wasn’t perfected until the following year, so Laura’s team and the design center worked together to come up with the black piping to distinguish the interior of the car.

Cars and Concepts did more than just install the convertible top. The company also installed all of the trim at the base of the convertible-top, interior trim panels, convertible top insulator, and the rear spoiler. Speaking of the convertible top insulator, it were

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Laura’s team, along with Creative Industries, that came up with the idea. It actually helped with noise and vibration and gave the interior a cleaner look. The insulators were exclusively for the ’92 Feature Cars. For the ’93 model year it became standard equipment. Cars and Concepts was the manufacturer of the convertible top insulators.

The Vibrant Red exterior color was chosen by the design center along with Joe Laura’s team. To make the Mustang even more distinguished, the convertible top moldings and A-pillars were also painted the exterior body color. Deleting the luggage rack and adding the rear spoiler was Laura’s idea. He wanted to make the car look more unique, and quicker, with a sports car appearance. The rear spoilers were built by Aeroquip. They were then painted and shipped to Cars and Concepts for installation.

Just as with the ’90 7-Up car, Laura’s team wanted a unique wheel.

They worked with Superior Wheel for the project and were shown several variations until the team agreed on Opal Pearlescent. The problem was that the manufacturer of the wheels and center caps were two different companies. Getting the wheels to match the center caps was a very difficult process. It took several months to get this perfected, and the argent wheel was on standby in case it needed to be used as a backup. For several months, both vendors sent their product back and forth to Ford to correct the problem. Laura and his team kept working with both manufacturers until finally the color match was right, laying out all of the wheels and center caps side by side (over two thousand sets) to confirm the match.

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4

1 The A-pillars and windshield frame were painted body color for the ’92 Feature Car. 2 The 16x7-inch pearlescent cast-aluminum five-spoke wheel was exclusive to the ’92 Feature Car. These original Michelin P225/55ZR16 XGT Z4 tires are unused. Note blue and orange color codes in center of the axle.

3 To enhance the interior, black piping was used on the front seat, headrests, and rear seats.

4 Even the trunk hinges and trim around the passenger compartment and convertible

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top well, black on non-Feature Car Mustang convertibles, were painted body color as part of the unique monochrome exterior.

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5 The rear spoiler was added and the luggage rack deleted for a stronger performance image.

6 A front view of the rear spoiler. Traditionally, convertibles are considered as more of a touring car, so the luggage rack was standard.

Replacing it with a spoiler was definitely a statement even though the Feature Cars received the same 5.0 engine as other Mustangs.

NEXT ISSUE: THE ’92 FEATURE CAR — PART 2 Terry McCoy is a collector and researcher of Fox Mustangs, having owned and studied original low-mile and no-mile cars. He shares his knowledge exclusively in FOX Mustang Magazine.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 15

FOX NEWS

You’re Gonna Like The Way You Look Hot off the latest GQ cover is our new Fox Mustang T-shirt, proudly proclaiming Foxdom’s finer points. “Let’s Hear It for the Red, White, and Blue” it shouts, showing not one, not two, but three of our past feature cars. How cool is that? And this is no teaser prototype available to just a handful of well-connected, high-buck VIPs. This new shirt is available to all Fox

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Mustang fans everywhere, on our website, www. foxmustangmagazine.com. So log on, click on the “Subscribe/Store” button, and get your own Fox Mustang T-shirt. It’ll cure baldness, balance your checkbook, and correct your pool’s PH balance. And hey! Chicks dig it.

Also new to the website store is this imported Italian koozie, engineered in Germany, styled

in France, jeweled by Tiffany, and tested on the grueling couches of North America.

Fits beverage cans made of aluminum alloy, titanium, Inconel, molybdenum, and austenitic nickel-chromium-based superalloys. And how about those dual racing stripes? EPA compliant, 50-state legal, gluten-free, and all for just $8.

How do we do it?

Europeans Dig The Mustang

While we Yanks swoon for sleek Jaguars and high-winding Italian sports cars, the Europeans hold the Ford Mustang in very high regard. From the Fox News website: Ford will celebrate the 50th anniversary of its iconic Mustang in 2014, and it seems that after five decades the sports car still has a strong fan base. According to a survey conducted by AutoScout24, the Ford Mustang is the most-wanted classic car among European collectors. The flattering distinction precedes the forthcoming launch of Ford’s next-generation Mustang on the continent.

The Ford Mustang was named as the top classic car by thirty-seven percent of the survey’s 75,000 respondents hailing from Germany, Austria, Belgium, Spain, France and Italy. The American sports car bested the BMW M1 (twenty percent) and the Volkswagen Beetle (eleven percent).

KAASE P-38 Cross Ram For Windsor Engine-building ace Jon Kaase is out with a wild, new cross-ram induction system for Ford’s Windsor engine family. It’s configured for impressive low- to mid-range torque, and its low profile means that builders of street cars will have lots of clearance.

Kaase says that, depending upon cam and head specs, the cross ram’s lengthy runners hit the sweet spot of the powerband around 2,500 to 6,800 rpm, and deliver superior off-idle performance, strong acceleration, and rapid recovery during gear changing. The system also makes some improvements in fuel economy. It functions with factory-style and aftermarket cylinder heads, as well as race heads, and is available as a fully assembled kit or as individual components.

Kaase’s P-38 cross ram is supplied with an electronic control unit to manage a wide variety of accessories for street or race use. It offers almost infinite tuning and is furnished with built-in data acquisition and diagnostics. By featuring individual control of spark and fuel, it provides accurate fuel metering for quicker response, peak power and torque, as well as fuel economy.

More info: J on Kaase Racing Engines Inc.

735 West Winder Industrial Pkwy.

Winder, GA 30680

(770) 307-0241 www.JonKaaseRacingEngines.com

Not That Guy This request arrived by mail, asking that editor Shaw sign his card and return by postage-paid envelope. Editor Shaw replies: Flattered though I may be, I’m not that guy. It’s like the difference between Batman the cartoon hero and Chuck E. Cheese the dumpy cartoon rat. I’m Tom Shaw the editor, and I: • hate golf and the humiliation suffered at the Dutch windmill and fiberglass dinosaur • only wish I was that handsome • probably earn less than his pool boy • am not sponsored by Lifan, Yugo, or Daewoo, let alone Toyota • would make your card worthless by signing it I am also not Tom Shaw the former city commissioner, Tommy Shaw the guitar player for Styx, nor Tom Shaw the guy who owes Texaco lots of money according to the collection agents who keep calling me.

But thanks for asking.

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SHOW COVERAGE & EVENTS

CRUISIN’ WOODWARD

Fox cars represent during the Motor City’s annual celebration of the automobile story and photography by Barry Kluczyk

A

ugust in Detroit means one thing: the Woodward Dream Cruise.

It’s a tradition stretching back to 1994 when the last Fox-bodies were only one-year-old used cars and a ’79 Pace Car was only fifteen years old. The cruise officially takes place on the third Saturday of each August, but the activities have expanded to include the days leading up to it. It’s what the locals call “Woodward Week,” and it’s nearly a holiday in the Motor City, with automotive-related companies hosting parties, supporting car shows, and more.

The cruise route stretches sixteen miles and cuts through many municipalities. Ferndale, the cruise’s southern anchor city, is Ford’s traditional staging area for the event. The Blue Oval folks take several

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blocks off Woodward and partner with the Mustang Owners Club of Southeast Michigan to host “Mustang Alley.” It’s one of the largest Mustang gatherings in the Midwest and just a small slice of the entire Woodward Dream Cruise pie — that is, if you think perhaps 750 Mustangs is a “small” slice. Then again, the cruise attracts more than one million spectators and literally tens of thousands of classics, hot rods, muscle cars, and late-model performance cars of all types.

If you’ve never seen sixteen miles’ worth of cars and people, you owe it to yourself to make the journey to the Woodward Dream Cruise at least once. Next August will be here before you know it. Plan now. And make the Ford display/Mustang Alley a must-do destination.

A Vibrant Red Fox-body heads up a line of display vehicles at Mustang Alley in Ferndale, Michigan.

Mark Storm’s ’88 Mustang GT convertible has about 70,000 miles but looks like it has only half that. It’s an unmodified, automatic-equipped car.

We spotted this ’79 Pace Car drag car in Pontiac, Michigan, at the northern end of the sixteen-mile-long cruise loop. We didn’t get the details on it, but the car is definitely running quicker than it did with the original 2.3-liter turbo or anemic V-8 from 1979.

EVENTS 3.15 PINELLAS PARK, FL 27TH ANNUAL MUSTANG-SHELBY-FORD SHOW John Moody; info@suncoastmustangclub.com www.suncoastmustangclub.com 3.29 BAYTOWN, TX FUN FORD WEEKEND www.funfordweekend.com

4.4 – 4.6 PENSACOLA, FL 35TH ANNUAL GULF COAST REGIONAL MUSTANG AND ALL FORD SHOW Nick Kirby; 251.978.2012 nlkirby@gulftel.com www.gulfcoastmustangclub.org

4.12 WOODBURN, OR MUSTANG 50TH ANNIVERSARY PARADE www.mhmf.com 4.16 – 4.20 CHARLOTTE, NC 50TH BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION www.mustang50thbirthdaycelebration.com

4.11 – 4.13 MUSTANG, OK OFFICIAL 50TH ANNIVERSARY KICK-OFF PARTY www.mustang50thbirthdaycelebration.com

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A clean, drag strip–intended LX with a cowl hood and big rear tires will go down in automotive history like a ’69 Camaro with slapper bars and Cragar S/S wheels.

This sharp-looking ’88 LX convertible is one of only 233 sprayed Medium Shadow Blue Metallic. And before you assume it’s a low-miler, think again. It has accumulated more than 215,000 miles on its untouched 5.0-liter engine.

Rino Fiibilli’s ’83 GT represents the first year of the four-barrel-fed, 5.0-liter engine, which was rated at 175 hp and 245 lb-ft of torque — with a low compression ratio of only 8.3:1. Its 175hp rating isn’t sky-high, but the car’s base curb weight was only about 3,150 pounds.

Is the ’85-’86 Mustang GT the best-looking Fox-body? This clean, 1E-code Silver example makes a good case for it.

EVENTS 4.16 – 4.20 LAS VEGAS, NV 50TH BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION www.mustang50thbirthdaycelebration.com

4.29 MACON, GA ANNUAL CHERRY BLOSSOM CAR SHOW www.fcmccherryblossom.webs.com

4.19 TAMPA, FL 50TH ANNIVERSARY SHOW www.mustangcluboftampa.com

5.4 WOODLAND HILLS, CA MUSTANGS IN THE PARK Dave Ptashne; 818.758.1826 www.mustangownersofca.org

4.26 – 4.27 ROCKINGHAM, NC FUN FORD WEEKEND www.funfordweekend.com

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5.23 – 5.25 SPRINGFIELD, IL MCA NATIONAL SHOW www.mustang.org

5.24 – 5.25 ALBUQUERQUE, NM 32ND ANNUAL MCA REGIONAL SHOW Frank McMullan; f.mcmullan@q.com 6.6 – 6.8 CARLISLE, PA 18TH ANNUAL FORD NATIONALS 717.243.7855; www.carlisleevents.com

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Cowl-hooded “aero” notches have been cruising Woodward Avenue since about thirty minutes after they were introduced. Ford could have made Weld Superlite wheels an option, since they’re found on about eighty percent of these cars.

Scott Birkett was one of a large contingent of Canadian enthusiasts who brought their Mustangs across the border for the Dream Cruise. His ’88 LX sports more modifications than Joan Rivers’ face — and looks way better, too.

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John Koza’s ’89 Saleen is an excellent example of the breed. It showed the original window sticker, detailing the $11,900 premium for the Saleen package, taking the final price to more than $26,000.

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Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 27

NEW PARTS

PRODUCT SHOWCASE SVE ALUMINUM UNDERDRIVE PULLEY AND BELT KIT Why not add an SVE underdrive pulley and belt kit to your ’87-’93 Mustang? These kits from Latemodel Restoration are an easy swap-out for your stock pulleys. They’re lighter, decrease drive drag, increase power, and come with a Goodyear Gatorback belt.

Latemodel Restoration www.latemodelrestoration.com (866) 507-3786

E-STREET ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM Edelbrock’s E-Street system is intended as an affordable, easy-to-use, fuel injection solution for any engine originally equipped with a carburetor.

Included are a preassembled throttle body, ECU, 7-inch touch-screen tablet PC, wiring harness, wideband oxygen sensor, and instructions.

Edelbrock www.edelbrock.com (310) 781-2222

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TORQUE MODEL WHEELS These wheels are the newest addition to Vision Wheel’s Legend Series.

Designed to enhance the visual impact of your car, they come in 15-, 18-, and 20-inch sizes and feature a gunmetal painted finish with a machined lip.

Vision Wheel www.visionwheel.com (866) 645-2664

RACING PART TOTES These new racing part totes from Summit Racing are ideal for hauling or storing parts and gear without breaking your back, or bank. They include a resealable lid and measure 7 x 8 x 5.25 inches.

Summit Racing Equipment www.summitracing.com (800) 230-3030

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 29

TRAVEL

1 BARRETT-JACKSON AUCTION Scottsdale, AZ January

2 RUSSO & STEELE AUCTION Scottsdale, AZ January

3 MUSTANG MANIA Tucson, AZ March

ATTRACTIONS

ANNUAL EVENTS

NATION

Southwest Edition

Welcome to FOX Mustang Magazine’s regional directory of the Mustang world, which includes parts vendors, restoration and mechanical shops, shows and events, great diners and restaurants, roadside attractions, races, drive-ins, and just plain old neat things.

12 ATOMIC TESTING MUSEUM

22 LAKE TAHOE STATE PARK

13 BONNEVILLE SALT FLATS

23 NATIONAL AUTOMOBILE MUSEUM

Las Vegas, NV (702) 794-5161

Wendover, UT (801) 977-4300

14 BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK Tropic, UT (435) 834-5322

4 ROCK & ROLL CHARITY CAR SHOW

15 CARLSBAD CAVERNS NATIONAL PARK

5 WHITE SANDS ROUNDUP

16 GILA CLIFF DWELLINGS NATIONAL MONUMENT

Phoenix, AZ March

Alamogordo, NM April

6 REGIONAL MUSTANG SHOW Albuquerque, NM May

7 RESTOMODS IN RENO Reno, NV June

8 INTERMOUNTAIN MUSTANG & FORD STAMPEDE Park City, UT August

9 HOT AUGUST NIGHTS Reno, NV August

10 BARRETT-JACKSON AUCTION Las Vegas, NV September

11 SEMA

Las Vegas, NV November

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Carlsbad, NM (505) 785-2232

Silver City, NM (505) 536-9461

17 GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK

Flagstaff, AZ (and surrounding areas) (928) 638-7888

18 HISTORIC ROUTE 66 MUSEUM Kingman, AZ (928) 753-9889

19 HOOVER DAM Boulder City, NV (866) 730-9097

20 IMPERIAL PALACE AUTO COLLECTION Las Vegas, NV (702) 794-3174

21 LAKE MEAD NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Boulder City, NV (702) 293-8990

Incline Village, NV (775) 831-0494

Reno, NV (775) 333-9300

24 NEVADA NORTHERN RAILWAY MUSEUM Ely, NV (866) 407-8326

25 NEVADA STATE MUSEUM Carson City, NV (775) 687-4810

26 O.K. CORRAL Tombstone, AZ (520) 457-3456

27 ROSWELL UFO MUSEUM Roswell, NM (800) 822-3545

28 ROUTE 66 AUTO MUSEUM Santa Rosa, NM (575) 472-1966

29 SPRINGS PRESERVE Las Vegas, NV (702) 822-7700

30 UNSER RACING MUSEUM Albuquerque, NM (505) 341-1776

RESTAURANTS

MUSTANG

33 66 DINER

Albuquerque, NM (505) 247-1421

34 BERT’S BURGER BOWL Santa Fe, NM (505) 982-0215

35 BISBEE BREAKFAST CLUB Bisbee, AZ (520) 432-5885

36 BJ’S NEVADA BARBECUE COMPANY Sparks, NV (775) 355-1010

37 BLACK BEAR DINER Lake Havasu City, AZ (928) 855-2013

38 BLUE PLATE DINER Salt Lake City, UT (801) 918-4925

39 BOBCAT BITE Santa Fe, NM (505) 983-5319

40 CECILIA’S CAFE Albuquerque, NM (505) 243-7070

41 DISH CAFE

Reno, NV (775) 348-8264

42 EAT AT JOE’S BBQ Wikieup, AZ (928) 765-2287

31 VERDE CANYON RAILROAD EXCURSION

43 GALAXY DINER

32 WIGWAM MOTEL

44 HARRY’S ROADHOUSE

Clarkdale, AZ (800) 293-7245

Holbrook, AZ (928) 524-3048

Flagstaff, AZ (928) 774-2466

Santa Fe, NM (505) 989-4629

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NEVADA

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UTAH 14

7 23 41 9 11 12 45 10 20 29

53 19 21

ARIZONA 18 37

17 43 31 48

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34 39 44 6 30 33 61 40 49 51 57 58

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63 60 1 2 47 52 4 62 46 54 64

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NEW MEXICO 27

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3 26

ATOMIC TESTING MUSEUM, LAS VEGAS, NV

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45 HASH HOUSE

49 MONTE CARLO

46 JOE’S REAL BBQ

50 MOOCHIE’S MEATBALLS

47 MATT’S BIG BREAKFAST

51 MR. POWDRELL’S BARBEQUE

Las Vegas, NV (702) 873-9479

Gilbert, AZ (480) 503-3805

Phoenix, AZ (602) 254-1074

48 MIKE AND RONDA’S THE PLACE Flagstaff, AZ (928) 526-8138

Albuquerque, NM (505) 836-9886

Salt Lake City, UT (801) 364-0232

Albuquerque, NM (505) 345-8086

52 MRS. WHITE’S GOLDEN RULE CAFE Phoenix, AZ (602) 262-9256

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 31

TRAVEL WIGWAM MOTEL, HOLBROOK, AZ

53 MUSTANG SALLY’S DINER

60 THEE PITTS AGAIN Glendale, AZ (602) 996-7488

Phoenix, AZ (602) 468-3447

55 PAT’S BBQ

Salt Lake City, UT (801) 484-5963

56 RUTH’S DINER Salt Lake City, UT (801) 582-5807

57 SOPHIA’S PLACE Albuquerque, NM (505) 345-3935

58 STANDARD DINER Albuquerque, NM (505) 243-1440

59 SUGAR HOUSE BARBECUE COMPANY Salt Lake City, UT (801) 463-4800

32 FOXMustangMagazine.com

MUSTANG RESTORATION SHOPS

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61 TUNE-UP CAFE Santa Fe, NM (505) 983-7060

62 SO-CAL SPEED SHOP Phoenix, AZ (602) 275-7990

63 MUSTANG SERVICE CENTER Glendale, AZ (623) 939-6447

64 MUSTANG SHOP OF ARIZONA Chandler, AZ (480) 926-3883

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www.BAER.com 602-233-1411

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 33

RESTORATION

HEADLINER RETRO FIT

Installing a convertible-top headliner on ’83-’93 Mustangs

story and photography by Matt Highley

I

f you own a Mustang convertible, you know the pleasure of cruising along the highway with the top down, using summer’s blue sky for a roof and a cool breeze for air conditioning. If you’re at a show, having your convertible’s top down is one of the best ways to exhibit its interior.

But with its top up, the interior can leave a lot to be desired. The exposed convertible top frame makes the interior look unfinished. It took Ford engineers until 1992 to address this and come up with a convertible top headliner.

Luckily, Fox Mustang Restoration offers a convertible headliner (made by TMI Products) and accompanying hardware kit (made by Fox Mustang Restoration) that adds a headliner to any ’83-’93 convertible. A convertible top headliner reduces heat and wind noise, and drastically improves the look of your car’s interior.

We’re installing a new headliner in William Bracy’s ’89 convertible. The headliner costs $169.99 and the hardware kit is $24.99. It takes about four hours to complete this job, so let’s get started.

34 FOXMustangMagazine.com

1

2

Here’s the ugly underside of a typical ’83-’93 convertible.

We’re installing a new convertible headliner using Fox Mustang Restoration’s convertible headliner installation kit. This kit includes thirteen pieces of adhesive-backed Velcro, six plastic push retaining pins, four button screws, and fourteen self-drilling screws.

4 3

The first step is to attach the front bow retainer on the headliner to the front bow on the convertible top frame.

This simply snaps into place. Make sure to secure the entire length.

This is the brand-new convertible headliner that we will be installing into William Bracy’s ’89 convertible GT. A great product from TMI interiors.

5 Make sure the headliner is centered in the top frame. We need to adjust this one slightly, which we do by pulling down just a little of the bow retainer on the opposite side that we need the headliner to move. Lightly tap the end of the bow retainer to make the adjustment. Reattach the bow retainer.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 35

6

7

With the headliner carefully centered, pull the front of the headliner to the convertible top header. This bar, the front-most of the top frame, contacts the windshield frame. Stretch the headliner tight to the header and put three marks on the header with a grease pencil, one in the center and another a few inches of either side of the center mark.

We now move the convertible top frame half-up. Use duct tape to secure the front of the headliner into position, aligning it with the grease marks.

8

9

Remove the bow retainer from the front bow. Using the grease pencil, mark the position of the retainer on the bow.

With the headliner held in place with duct tape and the position of the retainer marked, flip the headliner over the top of the convertible frame to reveal the plastic retainer. This retainer has a slotted hole, but feel free to make new holes if needed.

10 Using a power drill and one of the self-drilling screws, screw the headliner to the top header. Start with the center of the headliner.

36 FOXMustangMagazine.com

11 Work your way out from the center, alternating sides until you have secured the entire length. In some areas where the metal seemed thicker, we had to drill some 1/8-inch pilot holes.

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12 With the front of the headliner secure, reinstall the front bow retainer and install the second bow retainer onto the second bow.

14 After removing the rear glass retaining nuts and unzipping the glass towards the top, remove the convertible rear glass.

16 The headliner will need to be attached to the rear bow with the self-drilling screws, just like we did in front. Make sure to center the headliner before attaching it to the rear bow. As we did on the front, attach the headliner at the center and work your way out to the edges. Here, we use a drill bit to mark where the holes will need to be drilled for each slot.

38 FOXMustangMagazine.com

13 To install the headliner onto the third and final bow, it’s necessary to unbolt the rear glass and convertible top sides from the car.

First the glass needs to be removed. Working from inside the car, lean over the rear seat to remove the well liner and expose the rear glass retaining nuts.

15 The convertible top’s sides are also held in with the same type of retaining nuts. Once both sides are loose, fold the loose portion of the top forward to expose the rear bow.

17 Once we’re satisfied with the rear bow installation, we move on to reinstalling the convertible top sides.

18 There’s a small amount of adjustment for the top at these mounting points. Bring the top to the closed position but do not latch the top; then tighten the retaining nuts for the top. Make sure to finish the top sides before installing the rear window.

20 There’s some adjustment for the glass here, just as there is for the top.

22 Now we move to the sides by the quarter-window. We use a pick to puncture the headliner material and mark the frame for drilling the three holes in the headliner retainer. The pick is small enough that it will not damage the material.

19 To reinstall the rear glass, first attach it at the top by zipping it back in.

21 With the top reinstalled, we resume work on the headliner by installing the adhesive-backed Velcro strips to the rear glass.

Make sure to line the piece up with the matching Velcro on the headliner. There are two pieces down each side and three across the top.

23

Drill three matching 1/4-inch holes into the frame.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 39

24 Install the three push pins from the headliner’s side panel into the frame. Easy, huh?

26 We now move back to the top well area behind the rear seat and locate two buttons per side, attached to the headliner by elastic straps.

25 Still working near the quarter-window, we locate a pair of interlocking Velcro strips. They’re too long, so we trim them with a pair of scissors then wrap them around the bar.

27 At this point we reinstall the well liner and line up a place to drill the snaps. They have drill-tip, self-tapping screws. With a little help from the power drill, the snaps are in place, and we attach the headliner.

28

We are finally at the last step. On the upper side of the frame, above the door windows, we attach the last of the Velcro strips making sure to line them up with the Velcro patches on the headliner.

40 FOXMustangMagazine.com

SOURCES FOX MUSTANG RESTORATION 105 Pine Forest Dr. Locust, NC 28097 (704) 888-1278 www.foxresto.com

TMI PRODUCTS INC. 29

1493 Bentley Dr. Corona, CA 92879 (951) 272-1996 www.tmiproducts.com

It’s time to enjoy the new, improved look of our convertible’s interior.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 41

42 FOXMustangMagazine.com

THE SWEET SP T

Mike Gonzalez’s tough, tricked ’93 convertible

story and photography by Tom Shaw

M

odified and restyled Mustangs can be hit or miss.

One man’s hotness is another man’s weirdness.

Yet even among the wide swings of taste, there are cars that almost all agree hit the sweet spot.

Mike Gonzalez’s ’93 convertible would have to be on that list. It’s got the stance; it’s got the rolling stock; it’s got the style; and it knows when to stop. It doesn’t go too far or not far enough.

As a younger man, Mike had an ’89 Mustang for which he had big plans. But he got married, then along came a young family, and, well, the Mustang no longer fit the long-term plans. It was sold.

But if you’ve ever had an unscratched itch, you know it doesn’t go away easily. Mike’s Mustang plans simmered on low heat for several years. He found an LX convertible, but it turned out to be a false start. It had too much body damage. Mike kept the 5.0 on the side and resumed the search. In 2005 he spotted a solid ’93 GT drop-top that looked like the perfect starting point.

It was clean, straight, and triple white.

Mike began a routine of waxing and cleaning, but the old paint was having trouble holding a wax job. He knew it would have to be repainted. In anticipation, he began buying the body parts he wanted — a Cervini front bumper, Cobra R hood, rear wing, and rear valance — and when it was time, he traded the 5.0 LX convertible to

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 43

If you’ve ever had an unscratched itch, you know it doesn’t go away easily.

Keith Hancock of Hot Wheels Paint in Brooksville, Florida, for a repaint in stock Vibrant White. The pieces were painted one by one; then the body was reassembled along with the new parts. That was one big chore out of the way.

Rounding out the exterior of Mike’s ’93 are big Bullitt wheels, 18x10 inches rear and 18x9.5 inches front, with matching white spokes. Tires are sticky, low-profile, 35-series ZR18 Nexen radials.

The dropped stance comes from ’95 Mustang spindles on Granatelli control arms up front, and a North Race Cars axle, with notched backing plates for wheel clearance.

Next up was the interior. Neil’s Upholstery in Crystal River, Florida, was assigned the task of updating it. Mike went with a white and gray theme, recovering the leather seats with custom upholstery. Door panels were also done in the matching two-tone, with brushed metal accents added. A 1,000-watt Polk Audio system was installed, with custom speakers in the doors and rear panels. The driver’s A-pillar holds a trio of Auto Meter white face gauges: a programmable shift light, fuel-pressure gauge, and boost gauge for manifold pressure. In-dash instruments have been converted to white-face also. Mike swapped the

44 FOXMustangMagazine.com

46 FOXMustangMagazine.com

airbag steering column for an ’88 tilt column and installed an Isotta Evoluzione steering wheel with matching white surfaces. Control stalk, tilt lever, e-brake handle, pedals, window and lock buttons, and heater controls were all dressed in a metal finish.

At shows, Mike’s made-over Mustang got a good reaction, until people took a look under the hood. The stock 5.0 was a bit of a letdown, and Mike would usually place, but not in First.

It was time to tackle the engine.

The original 5.0 V-8 was removed and disassembled. The block took a 0.030-inch cleanup on the bores, and the crank was

polished and balanced. Upper and lower girdles were installed for maximum strength. The stock head castings were shelved in favor of Edelbrock heads with larger 2.02/1.60–inch valves, intake/ exhaust. Comp Cams valves and roller rockers were used along with an Extreme Energy cam with 0.556-inch lift. The free-breathing intake tract makes excellent use of a beefy Novi 1200 supercharger, tuned for 7 psi of boost. Wiring and plumbing have been rerouted for a clean underhood appearance.

Exhaust flows through BBK long-tube headers and into 3-inch pipes from the collectors back. Mufflers are Flowmaster Super 44s. The

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 47

48 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 49

reconfigured engine now makes 520 hp at flywheel, 430 hp at the rear wheels.

To stand up under that higher power, Mike runs a Spec Stage 2 clutch, aluminum driveshaft, and beefed-up rearend with 3.73:1 gears, carbon-fiber differential clutches, and hardened 28-spline axles.

Blue lighting under the door handles, seats, dash, beneath the hood, and even in the headlights and fog lights adds a bit of visual interest.

Mike’s efforts have paid off. At shows, the very sanitary ’93 always gets positive comments. And Mike, who sold his first Mustang to make way for a family, now enjoys showing this Mustang with support of that family. They all pitch in to get the car ready for display.

In a short period of time, Mike’s ’93 convertible won a wall full of trophies, including Best of Class at MOSI, and Gold at Fantasy of Flight 2011.

Enjoying the car you built, and built well, winning the admiration of other Mustangers, and doing it all as a family activity — that’s the sweet spot.

50 FOXMustangMagazine.com

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52 FOXMustangMagazine.com

1993 MUSTANG GT OWNER: MIKE GONZALEZ Inverness, FL

photography by Tom Shaw Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 53

RESTORATION

AXLE BEARING R&R

1

Replacing the rear-wheel bearings in our regularly driven ’86 GT, and determining the right axle ratio and speedometer gears story and photography by Huw Evans

Hopefully, you have access to a hoist.

Axle stands will work, but a hoist is much more stable and provides better access and comfort.

2

W

e’ve already covered a detailed rearend rebuild in FOX Mustang Magazine Issue 5, which included servicing the differential. However, for many of us, the only time we pay attention to the axle is when we’re looking at installing a steeper set of gears. As a result, items such as the bearings and seals often get forgotten about. These are regular wear items and over time, deteriorate. At best, the result is an annoying howl coming from the rearend when driving down the road; at worst, well, damage to the axles and even the differential.

Especially if you’ve just forked out the bucks for set of brand-new 3.55s, worn bearings can make your fun very short lived.

54 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Replacing the rear-wheel bearings on a Fox Mustang isn’t difficult, and at around $30 for a new wheel bearing and seal for each side, plus approximately $40 for new gear lube, it’s pretty cheap insurance all things considered. Although the process is fairly straightforward, you need to make sure you have the right tools before beginning the job. Of notable importance are a bearing puller kit and a seal and race driver kit. Armed with these, the entire job shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours, especially after we show you how. We’re replacing the outer bearings on a typical 8.8-inch rearend found in stock ’86-’93 Mustang GTs and 5.0 LXs.

Start with the right tools — an impact gun, air compressor, and a range of different sockets, along with the bearing puller (top) and driver kits (bottom) and the bearings themselves. These tools are commonly available at most auto parts stores, including Autozone and Pep Boys.

3

With the car safely supported on jack stands, remove the wheels. Our ’86 GT sported locking lug nuts, so we put them in a safe spot. Leaving them on the hoist isn’t a good idea.

6

Place a catch pan under the differential cover to catch the old gear oil. Remove the differential cover bolts one at a time, loosening opposite bolts to prevent bending the cover. With the bolts out, use a pry bar to work the cover off. The gasket will probably be a hard sticky mess, requiring a bit of effort to get the cover off.

4

Remove (in our case) the factory 9-inch drum brake assemblies. The drums should simply slide off. If they’re badly corroded or just look unsightly, new Fox drums cost around $40 each.

7

Once the cover is off, remove any remaining gasket material and give the gasket surface a once-over with a rotary tool to make sure it’s nice and flat. This ensures a tight, leakproof seal.

5

Disconnecting the driveshaft will enable the diff and axles to rotate freely since they’ll no longer be connected to the engine and transmission.

8

To get at the bearings, you have to remove the axles, but first you’ll have to pull out the retaining bolt and carefully remove a small pin that secures the retaining bolt in place.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 55

RESTORATION

9

RING-AND-PINION UPGRADES

Whenever you’re doing axle servicing, even if it’s just a simple bearing job like this, you might want to consider inspecting the ring-and-pinion gear and possibly replacing it. For the average enthusiast, replacing the ring-and-pinion is best left to the pros because it requires special tools; besides a driver kit to install the bearing on the pinion gear, you’ll need a special Ford service tool to check the depth of the pinion, as well as a dial indicator to measure backlash. This must be precise to ensure smooth, quiet operation of the gears and is adjusted with shims to achieve the required clearance. If you hear a whining from the rearend and it’s not the bearings, chances are it’s the result of sloppy gear installation, in which the backlash is too tight.

If you’re planning on changing the rear axle ratio, you’ll also need to change the speedometer drive gear and also the driven gears housed inside the transmission. On cars equipped with manual gearboxes, you can access the driven gears by pulling off the tail shaft. On automatics, it’s not so easy. Because the speedometer driven gear is machined with the output shaft, the transmission needs to be removed and pulled apart to access the gear.

On five-speed cars, the nylon speedo gears tend to wear out; if you see your speedometer bouncing up and down, chances are the gear is worn. Replacement speedometer gears are available through Ford dealers and are designated by different colors and number of teeth different axle ratios. You’ll need to match the axle ratio to the correct speedometer gear to ensure an accurate reading.

AXLE RATIOS The reason for considering a steeper axle ratio is to improve torque multiplication,

enabling the engine to reach peak output more quickly. Even with a stock engine, changing from 2.73:1 to 3.55:1 will notably improve offthe-line acceleration. However, the tradeoff is lower top speed, since the additional rpm extends beyond the engine’s maximum power band and can shorten motor life. It also affects fuel economy, and in this day and age, gas mileage is more of a concern than in the past.

RECOMMENDED RATIOS Factory gears on 5.0 Mustangs equipped with the 8.8-inch rearend were 2.73 and 3.08:1 on cars with five-speed manual gearboxes.

If the car still has its build tag on the driver’s door, the axle ratio will be identified by a code: M for 2.73, Z for 3.08. Cars equipped with AOD automatics, in order to take better advantage of the transmission’s gentler shift calibration, featured standard 3.08s or optional 3.27:1, identified by the code E. When considering upgrades, on the street, a 3.55:1 ratio is recommended for five-speed cars, with 3.73:1 for automatics. Some owners will install 3.73s for stick cars and 4.10s for automatics, but these are only recommended for cars that see extended strip duty. Also, when upgrading to 3.73s or shorter ratios, it’s a good idea to invest in heavier-duty bearings and 31-spline axles installed in Ford trucks.

You should also consider inspecting and if necessary replacing the factory Traction-Lok differential with something stouter such as an Auburn high-torque unit or Torsen TractionLok. Stouter ratios, such as 4.30:1 and 4.56 are only recommended for dedicated drag cars.

Companies such as Ford Racing Performance Parts, Moser, Motive Gear, and Strange Engineering should be able to help with all of your gear needs.

Once the pin and bolt have been removed (remember to put them someplace safe), carefully remove the C-clips from the axles. If the Mustang has been modified with C-clip eliminators, you’ll need to remove the studs that secure them to the brake backing plates and pull them off before sliding out the axles.

10

On our '86, with the C-clips removed, the axles can be carefully slid out. You can use the inner edge of the axle to pull out the old outer bearing seal.

11

To remove the bearing (visible at the edge of the axlehousing), use a bearing puller kit like this one from Matco tools which uses a slide hammer. We’ll be using the 1-7/8-inch–diameter puller to remove the bearings. Attach the puller to the end of the slide hammer, gently slide it in, and pull the bearing from the axlehousing. Often it requires a bit of prying in order to get the old bearing out.

14

Look at that nice, tight fit. Repeat removal and replacement on the other side.

12

13

You’ve got a lot of choices for your replacement bearings. Because our car is stock and we won’t race it, we’re using OEM replacements from Federal Mogul. For more extreme use, such as street/strip or road course driving, a set of heavy-duty Timken bearings are more than up to the job. Have a look at our new bearings compared with the originals. In operation, Fox Mustangs supply lube from the pumpkin, down the axles to the bearings, so there’s no need to pack them with grease like the front wheels.

15

It’s important to inspect the axles. If the old bearings were badly corroded, it’s likely that the axles are also damaged and pitted. If the pitting is extensive, your only choice is to replace the axles.

In our case, they weren’t too bad and just required cleaning. Factory Fox axles are 28-spline units, though cars modified for street/strip use often use heavier-duty 31-spline replacements.

The new bearing and seal are ready to be installed. With the seal driver over the seal and bearing, use a hammer and press to drive the bearing squarely onto its seat. Some people use blocks of wood for this step, but as DaSilva Racing’s Rob Cohelo says, that wood can damage the seals and bearings, so it’s worth using a proper seal driver. Auto parts stores may have a kit you can rent.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 57

RESTORATION

16

With the bearings back in place, we slide in the axles.

19

A critical step is using Loctite for the auxiliary pin that slides through the main pin in the differential. “It’s very important to use a strong adhesive to secure it,” says Cohelo. “If you don’t, then the auxiliary pin can pop out and the main pin can smash right through the center of the diff housing, causing a real mess.”

58 FOXMustangMagazine.com

17

Reinstall the C-clips. Make sure they slide in place correctly, otherwise you might experience axle walk when you drive the Mustang, which can be dangerous and expensive.

20

With Loctite applied to the auxiliary pin, it’s reinstalled back in the hole through the main pin.

18

Next, the differential pin is installed to hold both axles in place.

21

Using Black 471 sealer or equivalent, diligently work your way around the entire surface area to ensure even coverage.

E BL IL A N

O

W

A VA

1992 MUSTANG GT CONVERTIBLE

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THE PIC!

For the first time ever, get big, high-impact custom prints of the feature cars you see in Fox Mustang magazine. Tell us which car(s) you want by phone or email, select the size, and we’ll send your print, suitable for framing, in a protective mailing tube. Prints are highest quality on glossy, archival paper stock to stay colorfast for a lifetime.

8.5 x 11 — $29.95 + 4.95 shipping/handling 13 x 19 — $49.95 postage paid Duplicates ½ price if ordered together Email: mypics@foxmustangmagazine.com Phone: (863) 701-2707

Issue 8 FOX Mustang Magazine 45

RESTORATION

22

Carefully fit the cover; then install the bolts by hand before torquing them.

25

Clean the area around the filler hole on the front side of the pumpkin before removing the plug. The last thing you want are contaminants entering the housing.

60 FOXMustangMagazine.com

23

Begin torquing bolts at 12, 6, 3 and 9 o’clock positions first. Then go in a clockwise direction around the housing to tighten the remaining bolts.

26

Using a clean hand pump, pump the fresh lube into the housing. It will take several goes to fill the unit to capacity.

24

We reconnected the driveshaft to the differential. Now we’ll install fresh lube.

Use a lube with friction modifier to prevent premature wear of the TractionLok clutches. We’re using Amsoil synthetic gear lube; 75-90 and 75-140 are designed to withstand severe use.

To fill an 8.8-inch unit to capacity you’ll need 2.5 quarts.

27

All that’s left now is to reinstall the brake drums and put the wheels back on.

(Remember where you put the lug nuts?)

IMPORTANT! When doing any axle work, take the car for a reduced-speed test drive to make sure everything functions as intended. We noted that the rearend was quieter than before, with the only road noise coming from the 225/60R15 Goodyear Eagle GTs.

SPEEDOMETER DRIVE GEAR CHART

T-5 TRANSMISSION DRIVE GEARS

DRIVEN GEAR CALCULATIONS

Another method to determine what driven gear you need, can be done with this formula:

Teeth #

Color

Axle Ratio

Part #

6T

White

2.73:1

E3ZZ-B

7T

Yellow

3.08:1

E3ZZ-A

8T

Green

3.27:1

F0ZZ-A (1990-95 only, 1986-89 use 6T)

DGT x AR x TRPM 1,000

Teeth #

Color

Axle Ratio

Part #

Drive Gear

DGT = drive gear teeth, AR = axle ratio, and TPRM equals Tire Revolutions Per Mile (a stock P225/60VR15 will rotate 815 times per mile)

16

Wine

2.73:1/3.27:1

CODZ

6T/7T/8T

Thus,

17

White

3.45:1/3.55:1

C3DZ-G

6T/7T

18

Yellow

3.08:1/3.73:1

COCD-B

6T

19

Pink

3.27:1

CODZ-B

7T

20

Black

3.08:1/4.10:1

C1DZ-A

7T/8T

21

Red

3.27:1/3.27:1/4.30:1

C40Z-A

6T/7T/8T

MANUAL TRANSMISSION DRIVEN GEARS

7 x 3.73 x 815 1,000

= 21.3

driven gear teeth (rounded to the nearest whole number, 21). So you would pick the gear with 21 teeth.

AUTO TRANSMISSION DRIVEN GEARS Teeth #

Color

Axle Ratio

Part #

Drive Gear

16

Blue

3.27:1

DDAZ-A

6T

17

Green

3.45:1/3.55:1

C7SA-A

6T

18

Gray

3.08:1/3.73:1

C7SZ-B*

6T/7T

19

Tan

3.27:1

C7VY-A

7T

20

Orange

3.08:1/3.45:1/3.55:1/4.10:1

C8SZ-B

7T/8T

21

Purple

3.27:1/3.73:1/4.30:1

D00Z-B

6T/7T/8T

*Discontinued through Ford

SOURCES

AMSOIL INC. 925 Tower Ave. Superior, WI 54880 (800) 956-5695 www.amsoil.com

FEDERAL MOGUL CORPORATION 26555 Northwestern Hwy. Southfield, MI 48033 (248) 354-7700 www.federalmogul.com

DaSILVA RACING 960 Brock Rd. Pickering, ON Canada L1W 2A1 (905) 837-7700 www.mustangtoystore.com

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 61

COVER•CAR RECOVERY 62 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Judy Neely wanted a Mustang like the one on the brochure.

Thirty years later, so did Frank and Jean Paty

by Tom Shaw and Frank Paty • photography by Frank and Jean Paty

on’t judge a book by its cover, they say. Then why do they put so much effort into the cover? Fact is, everyone judges a book by its cover — how else would you know if you might want to pick up that book and take a closer look?

Judy Neely knows about the power of the cover.

She was shopping for a new Mustang at Boone Ford in Olympia, Washington, back in the spring of 1981, early April to be exact. To find the right one, she picked up a brochure in the showroom and began to go over it, carefully examining colors, models, engines, and options. Is there anything better than planning your new Mustang?

After carefully considering the many choices — the performance Cobra, the basic coupe and hatch, and the luxury Ghia (remember those?), Judy decided

she liked the one on the brochure’s cover, a Bright Bittersweet hatchback with T-tops, TRX wheels, and a smiling girl behind the wheel. She instructed the salesman to order her up a Mustang just like it.

He was only too happy to oblige. Thirty days later, the San Jose plant finished building her Mustang, and two months and one day later, she got the call from the dealership — her car was in. Judy and her daughter, Jean, returned to Boone Ford to close the deal.

Judy had checked off some nice options, running the grand total up past the five-digit mark, a sobering threshold back then. After all, she was driving the car from the cover of the brochure.

Driving the dream was rolling along beautifully, until a road trip in 1982 took them through Butte,

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 63

Montana, and into the path of a deer. The Mustang got a new hood, fender, and front fascia, and was returned to service.

The deer wasn’t.

Judy enjoyed ten years of driving her orange, T-top Mustang, but in 1992 it went into a barn where it stayed for the next twenty years.

In 2011, Judy, now an empty-nester, was approaching retirement. Her daughter, Jean, had married in 1994 and relocated clear across the continent in Florida. After a trip back to the Olympia area for a visit, Jean mentioned the neglected Mustang in the barn to her husband, Frank. A Ford enthusiast, Frank began thinking about the car. Its situation had gone downhill.

“The Mustang hadn’t moved since 1992 and was still in the barn, covered in dust, and sitting on four flat tires,” Frank says. “After looking at pictures, it was clear that the car had little or no value as it sat.”

But Frank, a true car guy, saw the diamond in the rough.

Perhaps the Mustang was a unique survivor that might be worth saving. After some discussion, Judy gave the Mustang to Frank and Jean as a gift, and the recovery of the brochure cover car began.

“The first call was to John Benoit of Cascade Classics,” Frank says.

John was tasked with extracting the Mustang from the barn and restoring basic function to be transportable. That required a new battery, fuel tank, brake cylinders, and carb rebuild. The tires, flat for so many years, actually held air.

After starting it for the first time in twenty years, a hidden mouse nest not only blew out of the tailpipe but created enough back pressure to blow a hole in the muffler. John replaced the muffler; then Bat’s Motorsports transported the

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T W O

’ 8 1

Ever see the disclaimer that “specifications are subject to change”? In 1981, Ford made significant changes to the Mustang during that model’s production — changes important enough to do a revised, second printing of the ’81 Mustang brochure.

M U S T A N G

B R O C H U R E S

T H E F E E L B E H I N D T H E ’ 8 1 ’ S LEATHER - WRA P P ED S P ORT STEERI N G

WHEEL

You have to pick your merge windows a little more carefully. The acceleration is just not there for a jackrabbit launch. As you demand more power, you can hear the two-barrel open up fully, but there is little to no seat-of-the-pants difference in how it pulls, just more noise. With the Overdrive, the ’81 is happy at highway speeds, with 70-75 mph being no issue, but beyond that you’re pushing it. Cruising with the T-tops out really makes it feel like a time machine.

Believe it or not, it’s a fuel-efficient car, even with the carb. While I haven’t done the calculations yet, I’d estimate high 20s to low 30s on the highway. Overall, the 2.3L does what it’s supposed to do — it gets you where you’re going with no fuss.

— Frank Paty

Mustang 3,000 miles from Washington State to sunny Gainesville, Florida.

Upon arrival, Frank rolled the new family member into his shop and ordered a Deluxe Marti Report (www.martiautoworks.com), which revealed all of the car’s original specifics, like: • 2.3L inline four-cylinder engine • five-speed manual overdrive transmission • 3.45:1 rear axle • power steering • power brakes • Special Value Package D • Vaquero leather bucket seats • AM/FM radio • interior accent group • leather-wrapped steering wheel • rear window defroster • left/right remote-control mirrors • handling suspension • wire wheel covers

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Meanwhile, Frank broke out the tools and began fixing the many things that atrophy during decades of inaction and those that need replacing after years of regular service in order to become roadworthy once again. The 2.3 received a new timing belt, thermostat, water pump, radiator, complete tune up, tires, and the steering column got a new rag joint.

With the car once again mechanically healthy, Frank turned his attention towards the Mustang’s appearance.

“After reading the MCA judging rules and examining the car, the decision was made to keep it as original as possible, unrestored,” he says. “As such, the engine and its compartment were spared the rattle can.”

Conkling Automotive, Classic Car Cleaners, and Gator Paint & Body all helped get the Mustang standing tall again.

Frank’s goal was to have it ready for the midMay show in Jacksonville, Florida.

“After sitting in a barn for twenty years,” Frank says proudly, “the Mustang not only made the road trip without a hitch, but it also

won First Place in the ’79-’93 class, a Gold Award, exactly thirty-one years to the day it was released from the San Jose plant.”

Frank drives an ’08 GT-500, so the little 2.3 is quite a contrast.

“The ’81 feels small, light, and anemic in comparison. Behind the wheel, the clutch is light and forgiving, but the shift pattern requires getting used to — Overdrive is over and down rather than where Fifth would normally be found (over and up).”

You don’t see many ’81s at Mustang shows these days, so nice ones, like Frank and Jean’s, get noticed.

“The ’81 gets quite a bit of attention from the 35 years-and-older crowd, the T-tops and color being favorite features,” says Frank.

Everybody has a Mustang story. People reminisce about the Fox Mustang of their youth. One of the key differences with this car is the opinions of the different age groups. The older crowd appreciates it for what it is, an old original car, but few really get how rare it is. The younger crowd just thinks it needs a 5.0.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 67

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Nelson Cardadeiro’s lightly used ’89 GT convertible

by Tom Shaw | photography by Nelson Cardadeiro

I

t was December 1988, and recent college grad Nelson Cardadeiro had just made that big transition — finishing school and landing his first real job. After some time on that job, things were looking good, so Nelson went shopping for a car. He was a Mustanger from way back, but now his vintage tastes were giving way to more practical concerns. He needed something dependable, maybe a little stylish, and fast was always good.

Nelson demo’d an ’89 GT convertible but wasn’t quite ready to pull the trigger.

However, the car made an impression on him, and the job situation still looked good, so a month later he returned to the dealer, ready

to sign the papers. But you know how dealers are — they like to sell cars — and when Nelson went back, expecting to drive home, he did, but not in a new Mustang. He went back home in his regular ride. The Mustang he wanted was sold.

Well, you can pine and mope for what might have been, but the time comes to just move on. So Nelson was back to square one.

“I went searching for another black or Cabernet Red GT five-speed convertible at other dealers around the San Francisco Bay,” he says.

But time was passing. The new model year was at hand, and Nelson preferred the nearlysold-out ’89 over the ’90.

“It was getting difficult to find ’89s since the ’90 Mustangs were out, but I wanted an ’89 since they still had the tilt wheel and the console armrest. Early ’90 Mustangs didn’t have an armrest.”

He found a black ’89 GT at another dealership but couldn’t make a deal with them. His plan then was to go to another dealer and try and crack a deal with them for the same car on a dealer trade. That didn’t pan out either. “[The salesman] tried but couldn’t strike a deal,” Nelson says. That was the bad news. Or was it?

After some networking, the salesman had some good news.

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“He was able to get my original test drive convertible GT from a month prior from another dealer in St. Helena,” Nelson says.

“They had done a dealer trade with it a few weeks earlier.”

Well, why didn’t they check that in the first place?

Nelson negotiated just over $1,000 off the original $18,997 sticker price, and on October 25, 1989, he signed the papers and took delivery of the slick, black ’89 GT convertible.

Sounds good, but the deal got better.

“Later, I received another $500 rebate for being a recent college graduate,” Nelson says.

Needless to say, the honeymoon was on.

Nelson drove the drop-top Mustang daily

“I knew I was going to keep it as a low-mileage original.”

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 71

but always took exceptional care of it. Being in Northern California’s metal-friendly climate, the Mustang took the years and miles well. Nelson dated his future wife, Sheri, in it. Those had to be fun miles.

In the summer of 1992, with around 17,000 miles on the clock, Nelson was given a company car (he ordered a red 2.3 LX with ten-hole wheels), and his ’89 GT convertible became a secondary car. Having been involved with vintage cars before, he knew the value of originality and documentation.

“I saved all of the paperwork and the original battery, oil filter, air filter, and wiper blades since I knew I was going to keep it as a low-mileage original,” he says.

These days, the ’89 doesn’t see high-speed road trips, as it has the original Gatorback tires on it still. But on its last time out, it hit the MCA show circuit.

“The last time it was driven any distance was to the MCA National in Concord, California, in 2007,” Nelson says. It won a Gold award in the Unrestored Class and scored a plus 9 as it was only docked 1 point.”

That would be its new focus — Mustang shows. It does very well, too. Nelson tells us it’s also won a couple of Gold awards in the Unrestored class as well as three Best of Shows at events around the San Francisco area.

The ’89s were the 25th anniversary Mustangs. As we approach the 25th anniversary of the 25th anniversary, we can look back on cars like Nelson Cardadeiro’s very wellkept ’89 and remember what original was all about. At the time, it seemed like every Fox Mustang on the road was modified. But we know of at least one black GT convertible way out West that never strayed far from factory. It doesn’t need restoration. And we doubt it will twenty-five years from now.

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FACTS AND FIGURES ’89 MUSTANG GT CONVERTIBLE Original owner: Nelson Cardadeiro – Tracy, California Color: Black with black convertible top Current mileage: 22,474 Options: Special Value Group, includes AM/FM stereo cassette, speed control, air conditioner, Premium sound. Medium gray leather Sport Seats, optional 3.08 Traction-Lok rearend, front license plate bracket, and California emissions system. Has factory 140-mph speedo and 25 years dash emblem and window sticker.

Window Sticker Price: $18,997 Build date: June 22, 1989 Selling dealer: Ed Chovanes Ford in San Leandro, California.

Purchased: October 25, 1989, for $17,800 plus tax and license

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DANIEL CARPENTER MUSTANG REPRODUCTIONS

N A S A

B L A S T O F F

Rocketing to the Kennedy Space Center in a 5.0 coupe • story and photography by Colin Date

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We just had an awesome time, and we’d like to share it with you, Faithful Reader.

Brian Verse of Palm Bay, Florida, holds the pink slip to the 5-liter rocket you see here. We’d been talking with him about photographing his car, and he didn’t need a lot of convincing to agree to a road trip to the Kennedy Space Center (KSC) on Florida’s central Eastern seaboard.

We meet up with Brian in Titusville, about forty-five miles north of Palm Bay. Loading the camera gear into Brian’s True Blue ’90 LX, we head due east along SR 405. It’s been ten years since I’ve been in a Mustang of this vintage. It

feels great to relive those neck-snapping shifts that are so unmistakably T-5, backed by plenty of good ol’ 5.0 grunt. Six rather quick miles later, Brian wheels the LX into the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. Surprisingly, the massive parking lot is not packed. That could have something to do with the 98-degree heat and stifling humidity. Although the KSC experience has lots to do indoors, there are plenty of outdoor activities as well. On a toasty day like this, well, it looks like a lot of folks chose to chill elsewhere.

That’s fine; it gives us plenty of room for photo ops and time to soak up a bit of space history.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 77

W H A T ’ S S T S ?

Atlantis’ last mission was “STS135.” What’s with the STS? Space Transportation System — the acronym NASA used to identify each individual space mission.

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The John F. Kennedy Space Center is the launch location utilized for every NASA manned space mission since 1968. Although the Shuttle program has been discontinued, with the Shuttle Atlantis blasting off into the history books for the final mission on July 8, 2011, KSC still manages and operates unmanned rocket-launch facilities for the U.S. government’s civilian space program from three pads at the adjoining Cape Canaveral Air Force Station.

Since December 1968 all NASA launches have been from Pads A and B at Launch Complex 39 (LC-39). Both pads are located on the Atlantic Ocean, three miles east of the Vehicle Assembly Building (used to assemble and store

manned spacecraft). From 1969 to 1972, Launch Complex 39 was the departure point for all six Apollo manned moon-landing missions using the Saturn V, which was the largest and most powerful operational launch rocket ever built.

LC-39 was also used from 1981 to 2011 for all Shuttle launches. The Shuttle Landing Facility, just north of the launch complex, was utilized for Space Shuttle landings, weather permitting.

While we’re on the subject of awe and power of historic proportions, let’s dig a bit into Brian’s sweet little 5.0. Originally a Florida Highway Patrol unit, this LX spent many an hour cruising the Florida Turnpike around Orlando. The FHP must have been impressed with the car, since it

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 79

R O CK E T G A R D E N Check out the Rocket Garden just before you exit the complex. It’s a collection of historic rockets that tell the story of man’s quest for the stars. Very impressive.

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spent six years with it, from mid-1990 through 1996. Although we’re sure the Fox got into plenty of high-speed pursuits, it had never been in a wreck and after its police duties was sold at auction to a small dealership in Jacksonville, Florida. It didn’t take long for it to find a new owner, who kept the Mustang until 2002. Brian purchased the car from him. We’ll let Brian tell us a bit about his ride.

“In the ten years I’ve owned the car, I’ve changed just about everything, except the block, internals, transmission, clutch, and shifter. It was my daily driver for about three years, before it became a weekend/show car. In 2005, the car was painted, and since then it has been a cruiser/ weekend/show car. Most notable awards include a 2008 Editor’s Choice [from another Mustang magazine] at the Fantasy of Flight show and a First Place ’87-’93 Modified class at the 2012 Fantasy of Flight.”

Mechanical modifications: ported GT40x aluminum heads (w/ARP studs), E-303 cam, Crane 1.7 rockers, port-matched GT40 intake (upper powdercoated black), ½-inch intake spacer, Ford Racing valve covers (powdercoated black), 70mm throttle body/EGR spacer, 73mm MAF, Moroso cold-air intake, new power steering pump/rack/lines, HD radiator w/ Mark VIII fan/

Painless wiring kit, Ford Racing 9mm Wires, MSD coil and 6A ignition box, new Optima Red-Top battery relocated to trunk w/ Summit box, PA Performance 200-amp alternator, High Torque mini starter, blue 24-pound injectors, Kirban fuel-pressure regulator w/ gauge on rail, Walbro 255-lph fuel pump, T-5 w/ Hurst shifter and Tri-Ax handle, King Cobra clutch, Maximum Motorsports clutch quadrant/firewall adjuster/ cable, aluminum driveshaft, ’04 Cobra IRS w/ 3.55 gears (31-spline half shafts), BilletFlow IRS brace, Kenne Bell Flip Chip (installed but never used), A/C: 134a, heat: disconnected, smog pump removed Interior features: tinted windows, ’04 Cobra front seats, ’90 rear seat recovered to match, Ford Racing/Florida 5.0 instrument cluster, Red Raptor shift light, ’95 leather E-brake handle w/ boot, ’86 SVO leather shift boot, Ford Racing leather handle, ’93 dome light (’90 map light removed), new headliner, carpet, custom door panels w/ matching suede inserts, Bullitt pedal covers w/ dead pedal, Kenwood radio/CD player w/ hidden antenna, upgraded speakers, Grand Design trunk mat, carpeted rear-seat panel cover Suspension: modified front Bullitt springs, stock rear IRS springs, Bilstein shocks,

Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates, subframe connectors (welded in), 13-inch power slot rotors (front) w/ Cobra calipers and SS lines, 11-inch Cobra rear brakes (painted to match fronts), ’93 Cobra master cylinder w/ bias control, Maximum Motorsports rear bumpsteer kit, Energy Suspension front end links, ’99 Cobra rims (17x8), 245/45/17 Hankook Tires Exhaust: BBK 1¾-inch ceramic-coated longtube headers, BBK catted H-pipe, modified ’04 Cobra MagnaFlow cut back w/ LX tips Brian’s Mustang started out life as a highperformance police unit and has only gone onward and upward from there. It served us well that day in July, ripping into its KSC exploration mission. This 5.0 not only pulls real hard in a straight line, but its modified suspension really shines in the corners, too, keeping things slotcar stable.

If you ever get a chance to ignore the Central Florida theme parks for a day, you owe it to yourself to visit the Kennedy Space Center Complex. Located roughly ninety minutes due east of Disneyworld, it’s an easy drive and well worth the trip. You can soak up fifty years of U.S. space history in an afternoon. Now that’s fast.

More info: www.kennedyspacecenter.com

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 81

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Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 83

RESTORATION

DIY BRAKE JOB The familiar brake job takes a restoration turn

story and photography by Tom Shaw

F

or years, when we’ve worked on the brakes of our Fox Mustangs, it’s been to upgrade to big, powerful disc systems.

These days, with restoration the hot, new trend, we’re seeing more and more cars kept stock or even returned to stock.

The time had come for our Project ’93 to get some new brakes.

The car shows only 49,000 miles and had original brakes on the rear, and replacement pads up front. For this story, we’re servicing the brakes with the goal being to make them work and look like new. Peter Geisler and Tim Clingler of Orlando Mustang are supplying the hands-on expertise, and National Parts Depot is supplying the replacement parts (shoes, wheel cylinders, rotors, pads, and calipers). This issue, we’re working on the rear drums.

Next issue, the front discs.

We’re taking the job step-by-step, so if you’ve felt that brake work is over your head, you should be able to follow along and get the job done. Even if you’re not the mechanical type, you’ll at least know what goes into a thorough brake job. If your Mustang’s brakes are fine, great, but they need regular service, so your time is coming. Hang on to this article, and when the time comes, you’ll know what to do.

Here we go.

1

Remove the wheels, using the softest pry tool you can find. Put a towel or piece of cardboard or plastic between the wheel and the pry tool. These are the same wheels we restored last issue, and we just corrected all the blemishes and damage from everyday use like this.

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2

Since this article and this magazine are big on restoration, we’re going to pay attention to details like these oftdiscarded clips installed at the factory to keep the drums in place prior to wheel installation during assembly.

They are unnecessary in normal use and usually thrown away. Even in strict judging, which nobody is doing on Fox Mustangs as far as we know, these are not checked. But since they are original, we’ll reuse them.

3

Remove the clips (in the unlikely event that they’re still there), and the brake drum should come off easily.

Occasionally, they’re rusted on, or worn to the point where they’ve created a lip that holds the drum on. In that case, on the back side of the backing plate, open the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder, and loosen the adjuster through the slot at the bottom of the backing plate. This will let the shoes retract and allow the drum to be removed.

4

With the drum removed, we found the shoes’ lining, originally held on by adhesive, had separated from the shoes and was sliding around inside the drum, making a mess of metal shavings but not doing much braking.

7

Next, remove the shoe hold-down by holding the pin from the back side.

Gripping the hold-down with pliers or specialized tool, push inward; then while holding it in, rotate it 90 degrees in either direction, and pull it off. Remove the spring and pin, too. Repeat for the rear shoe.

5

We recommend taking a picture of the brakes before you disassemble everything. You might need it for reference when putting it back together.

Disassembly begins by removing the two retracting springs from the post.

Tim Clingler, restoration specialist at Orlando Mustang, uses an old Craftsman brake tool. Vise grips and stout pliers have also been known to work.

6

Not that it makes any difference mechanically, but the white spring for the rear shoe was on the outside, so it comes off first, followed by the green spring for the front shoe. The innermost item on the post is the automatic adjuster cable. All of it comes off.

FACTORY DRUM BRAKE DIAGRAM Even experienced mechanics will be ahead of the game by disassembling only one side at a time. Leave the other side intact in case you need to refer to it for reassembly. It’s also a good idea to take a couple of pictures of each side before you pull it all apart. It could very well answer some questions once you tear it all down.

But should you choose to ignore all of our sage advice, here’s a factory diagram of how the drum brake assembly goes together.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 85

RESTORATION

8

Pull the shoes off the backing plate. A third spring still connects the shoes at the bottom, and the parking brake cable is still connected to the rear shoe, so you can’t pull it all the way off just yet.

The front shoe can easily be worked free; the rear is disconnected from the parking brake arm by removing a clip.

Save the clip. You’ll need it later.

11

Remove the wheel cylinder from the front side. They can be honed and rebuilt, but there are no date codes on these, and even if there were they wouldn’t be visible with the wheels on.

Simple replacement is much easier, so we’re discarding these.

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9

With the shoes removed, we’ll remove the wheel cylinder next. Start by removing the line connection. A flarenut wrench works best, as it’s the least likely to slip. The nut is supposed to turn freely and independently of the hydraulic line, but older lines often corrode together causing the line to rotate with the flare nut and twisting the line apart. Penetrating oil like WD-40 or BB Blaster can help, but if the line is sticking, it’s probably time to replace the lines, too.

12

Cleanup is the next phase. A few heavy shots of brake cleaner and a wire brush bust the crud. A drip pan underneath catches the mess before it hits the floor. Although we haven’t done it in this picture, a cap on the open brake line is a good idea to prevent dirt from entering the system.

10

Two 12mm bolts hold the wheel cylinder to the backing plate. They’re so rusty in this picture, they’re hard to see, but they’re there. Hit ’em with penetrating oil and work the bolts back and forth with a six-point socket if they’re being stubborn. A couple of well placed hammer blows can help break them loose, too.

13

Don’t quit until it’s all the way clean.

Give it a final shot of brake cleaner.

RESTORATION

14

New hardware is inexpensive, but we’re reusing our factory originals. A scrubbing in the parts washer gets them squeaky clean. Afterwards, they’re blown dry with compressed air.

17

A dab of white grease at the contact points (inset) will help the shoes expand and contract smoothly and quietly.

Apply sparingly. You don’t want excess to get on your new shoes and drums.

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15

Our new parts, shoes, and wheel cylinders came from National Parts Depot. NPD handles Wagner, a topquality brand, and their four major distribution centers (in Florida, Michigan, North Carolina, and California) make sure your parts arrive quickly.

18

Being sure to put the primary shoe front, and the secondary shoe rear (see “Primary / Secondary Shoes” sidebar), slide the shoe into place, pushing the retaining pin through from the back side.

16

Reassembly begins by bolting the new wheel cylinders onto the backing plate.

Remove the cap on the hydraulic line and thread the flare nut into the wheel cylinder. Snug it up tight.

19

Slide the spring and retaining clip over the end. Give it a quarter turn while holding the retaining pin from moving.

Tim uses specific brake pliers to firmly grasp the retainer, but normal pliers can do the same thing.

20

Ford shop manuals call this piece the parking brake link. It moves the front shoe against the drum when the parking brake is applied. Don’t forget the link spring at the front. It’s a tensioner and an anti-rattle.

21

Now install the primary shoe just as you did the other one. Keep your hands clean and don’t touch the shoe’s friction material if you can help it. Make sure the parking brake link goes in the correct slots in each shoe.

PRIMARY / SECONDARY SHOES

Drum brake shoes are not interchangeable from front to rear. There’s a specific front (primary) and a specific rear (secondary), and they are not to be reversed. The primary shoe goes on the forward side and will have less friction material. It’s made of a higher friction composition and its increased “bite” uses the rotation of the drum to drive the secondary shoe harder against the drum’s friction surface. Remember this: The shoe with the least material goes toward the front on both the left and right sides.

22

The same-type retainer clip holds it to the backing plate. Some people who are particularly good with their hands can fasten these retainers with just their fingers.

23

With both shoes pinned to the backing plate, install the rear retracting springs (white) through the self-adjuster cable guide and into the secondary shoe.

A dab of white grease in the guide’s groove will help the cable to move freely and last longer.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 89

RESTORATION

24

25

Parts install in the reverse order they were removed, starting with the anchor pin plate, then the adjuster cable end.

FACTORY MARKINGS

The rear retaining spring is pulled onto the anchor pin with a long tool. A screwdriver or vise grips have also been known to work, but the right tool makes this job, which can be frustrating, go easier.

26

The front retaining spring goes on next.

With everything installed, it should look like this.

27

We don’t have the decode; we can’t translate what it means; it’s probably different from car to car; and it’s all covered up anyway once the car’s put back together. But for whatever it may be worth to restorers, here are the factory color codes we found on our original ’93 GT. On Axle:

Large orange blob in the center of the axle Small white patch, also in the center of the axle Gray numeral 4 between studs On Edge of Shoes:

Primary Shoe Orange, Yellow, White Secondary Shoe White, Gray, Yellow

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Moving to the bottom, the self-adjuster is installed between the shoes. Make sure to give it some white grease and that it operates smoothly before installing.

28

There’s one more strong spring to hook up, and it goes from the primary shoe to the self-adjusting lever. The lever attaches in three places: the secondary shoe, the adjusting cable, and the adjusting spring, anchored in the primary shoe. Tim uses vise grips and some manual dexterity to hook it up.

The adjuster is removed in this shot for a better view.

31

These drums were uncut originals.

Both were in good shape, even with the unbonded passenger-side shoes. They needed only a minimal surfacing and a little quality time in the bead blaster for rust removal. Cast into the edge of the drum (inset) is its machinable limit — 9.060 inches. Once past that, there’s not enough metal left to operate safely, so the drum must be replaced. This is not only good sense; it’s law.

29

To get your basic adjustment, start with the adjuster all the way in; then adjust it to where the drum slides on with minimal drag. The mechanism will take it from there. It ratchets the adjuster out a click at a time to keep the brakes correctly adjusted.

32

Once de-rusted in the bead blaster, the drums were painted with Por-15’s Metal Mask, a very tough coating that approximates the look of raw iron and is not UV sensitive. This will keep that factory-fresh look for years. Cast Blast is a good spray-can alternative. Once installed, the wheel keeps the drum in place, so these clips are unnecessary.

But this is a restoration job, so we’re putting them back. Maybe years from now some tough show judge will bum out that he couldn’t ding us for five points because they’re missing.

30

Thread the flare-nut end into the wheel cylinder, being careful not to crossthread it. Snug it up with a tubing wrench. Repeat the job on the other side, and you’re ready to open the bleeder valve, just above the line, and begin bleeding the hydraulic system.

Start with the right rear (farthest from the master cylinder). Open the valve and let gravity begin to fill the cylinder. Keep an eye on your reservoir level on the firewall. When fluid steadily trickles from the bleeder valve, close it and have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times, holding it all the way down on the last pump. Open the bleeder valve and repeat until you have a steady stream of fluid with no bubbles.

SOURCES NPD FLORIDA 900 SW 38th Ave. Ocala, FL 34474 (352) 861-8700 (800) 874-7595 toll free www.npdlink.com ORLANDO MUSTANG 2475 Reed Ellis Rd. Osteen, FL 32764 (407) 688-1966 www.orlandomustang.com

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 91

FIX MY FOX

by Matt Highley, Fox Mustang Restoration

Q

FLUID VS. FLUID

My mechanic recently told me not to use power steering fluid in my Fox’s power steering system. He said to use transmission fluid. I told him he was crazy, but I did some research and it seems he may be right. Can you shed some light on this subject?

Max Shanley Fincastle, VA

A

Your mechanic is correct. On pretty much all pre-’98 Fords, you should use transmission fluid in the power steering — but not just any transmission fluid; it needs to be Type F. It has to do with the viscosity rating. Power steering fluid is slightly thicker, causing the pump to work harder than it’s designed to work. It can also cause leaks due to the fluid being thicker, causing higher pressures against the seals.

Q

CALIBRATE THIS

My friend gave me a Pro-M mass air meter to use on my Mustang. It’s a ’91 five-speed with an A9L computer. I know there are different calibrations for these meters. How do I make sure that this one will work on my car?

Frank Miller Bothell, WA

A

There are three key issues that will need to match up.

First, make sure the meter’s calibration matches the fuel injector poundage. This will be marked on the meter under the calibration marking. You want 19 to make 19-lb injectors, 24 to match 24-lb, and so on.

As far as the computer goes, it makes no difference which computer you use as long as it’s an ’89-’93 mass air computer. The only exception to this rule is the ’93 Cobra computer. You will have to get a meter specially calibrated to this computer.

Last is matching up to your intake system. If you have a cold air induction system with the bend going into the fenderwell, the meter’s part number will need to have a “C” on the end for cold air intake. If you are using the conical air filter in the engine compartment attached to the meter, the meter’s part number will need to have a “Conical.” The final option is if you are using a stock airbox set-up. If this is the case, there will be no lettering on the end of the part number.

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Q

YOU SEND ME

I desperately need your help finding a fuel sending unit for my ’86 GT. I can find units for ’87-’93s and ’84-’85s all day long. What’s the deal?

Jeff Harris Stockton, CA

A

The sending unit for the ’86 5.0 GT is also the same for the ’83-’86 fourcylinder turbo Mustangs, including the SVO. Unfortunately, this part is not being reproduced. You can try to disassemble the sending units and lightly sand the contact points.

Your next bet is to find an N.O.S. sending unit, which can be pricey. The original Ford part number is E3ZZ-9275-C. Your last option is to reuse the contact board from the sending unit from Dorman Products, part number 692-120. However, the last I checked this was also discontinued.

Q

A MORTAL LOCK

My door locks don’t work. It doesn’t matter whether I use the key in the door, or the power-door locks. Can you confirm that the door latch is what I need? It looks like a lot of work to do the door latch.

Daniel Wright Via email

A

I wouldn’t replace the door latch, as I don’t believe that’s your problem. Usually the door-lock actuator (the electric door-lock solenoid) will freeze up. This is caused by water getting into the actuator and rusting it solid.

When you put a new actuator in, I recommend pulling the rubber boot back and squeezing some Die-electric grease into the motor to prolong the life of the motor.

Q

SEARCHING FOR SNAKE SKIN

Where can I find a door molding for my ’79 Cobra? Or is it possible to reuse my original?

Shannon Knipp Via email

A

There’s not much I can offer as solutions to this issue. Right now there are no reproductions for any of the ’79-’84 body side moldings. The only place you can find an N.O.S. molding is if it pops up on eBay. As far as reusing the original, you can do this as long as you do not remove it from the car. If you remove it, you’ll bend the metal strips on the back of the molding and it will never be straight again.

If you remove the metal strips, the molding will shrink up to 2 inches, and then you’re sunk.

MEET MATT HIGhLEY As owner of Fox Mustang Restoration, Matt Highley brings years of experience, a passion for Fox-bodies, and a deep knowledge of these cars to Fix My Fox. In 2004, Matt opened Fox Mustang Restoration to help keep these cars on the road.

To have Matt address your Fox Mustang issues just send your question, and a pic if possible, to brandon@pattersonpublishing.com. Put “Fix My Fox” in the subject line.

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 93

HISTORY

From the archives

F

rom the Archives is a continuing feature, exclusive to FOX Mustang Magazine, reprinting original Ford literature without modification.

This is insider literature issued to dealers only and not available to the public. Build your own reference and collection.

This is the third in a series featuring the Mustang section of the 1985 Ford Car Facts, showing all the facts, features, and specifications for

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the ’85 Mustang line. The red ink appearing on some pages is revised information, changed after model year introduction and updated during the ’85 model year. We’ll stay at it until you’ve got the complete section.

Got some particular info you’d like to see? Drop us a line at tom@ themustangmagazine.com with “From the Archives” in the subject line, and we’ll see if we can get it for you.

800-343-4261

941-639-0437

www.hydroe.com

Issue 9 FOX Mustang Magazine 95

HISTORY

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