Fox Mustang Magazine | Issue 3

Page 1

Issue 3 $5.95

Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 1




DEPARTMENTS

10

13

6

EDITORIAL

22 FOX NEWS

8

YOU GOTTA SEE THIS #1

24 EVENTS

10 YOU GOTTA SEE THIS #2

30 MUSTANG NATION

13 THE MARTI REPORT

34 NEW PRODUCTS

16 FOX MAILBOX

92 FOX HUNT

20 ORIGINALITY

94 FIX MY FOX

24

30

34 ON THE COVER: “Ron Wheeler’s much modified ’89 5.0 hatch strikes an aggressive pose in the Reno, Nevada, valley. Steve Temple shot the pic, and plenty more beginning on page 44, with his Nikon DSLR. 4 FOXMustangMagazine.com


44

FEATURES

COVER STORY

24 NMRA BRADENTON MARCH 2-4, 2012 NMRA’s first event of the year

44 GRAY FOX Color of a dove, bite of a predator

72 SPECIAL VEHICLE’S OPERATIONS Kevin Kymer’s original-owner ’84 Mustang SVO

50 POSTER Ron Wheeler’s ’89 Mustang GT BIO 58 FOX AFIRE

RESTORATION & PERFORMANCE 36

REAR AXLE LINK UPGRADE Get your act back on track with affordable, heavy-duty, rear upper and lower control arms from UPR Products

52

HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT Cutting the bummer factor from the Mustang’s most-dreaded job

64

HEADER HEAD’S-UP Better performance begins with this simple and affordable modification

80

FUEL PUMP R&R They all go bad. Here’s how to remove and replace an inoperable fuel pump with a highperformance, electric one from BBK Performance

88

INTROSPECTION How to discover your Fox engine’s true internal condition, without the teardown

Saleen’s ’88 R-model racer

64

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 5


TOM SHAW >>>>

FROMTHE

EDITOR

SEASONS, SHOWS, TRENDS

S

pring is in full swing, Mustang shows are blossoming, and change is in the air. I suppose that shows are constantly evolving, along with changing tastes and preferences among enthusiasts. Here in Central Florida, we’re just beyond winter’s reach. Oldtimers tell me that we once got a brief dusting of snow in 1977, but that’s about it other than an occasional frost or cold snap. For the rest of the country, fall means the end of comfortable weather and the onset of freezing cold. For us in peninsular Florida, spring is the last gasp of comfortable weather and the onset of intense heat, tropical humidity, and a worrisome sixmonth hurricane season. The best strategy I’ve found for coping with summer in the South is to go indoors, fire up the air conditioner, and stay there until October. Winter is our primary season in Florida, and if we’re getting an advance peek because of our inverted seasons, we’re seeing some important shifts in the Mustang hobby. TREND NO. 1 — NEW MUSTANGS ARE HOT Not a deep revelation. They show up in force at Mustang shows as premium models, limited editions, customs, and rods. No doubt Ford is happy to have a hit on their hands, especially in these challenging times. For the many owners, it’s a blast to participate in a Mustang show without the expense and blood-andguts hassle of restoring a classic. There’s a new wave of people

6 FOXMustangMagazine.com

rolling into Mustang shows. But not everyone likes the new class. “They haven’t paid their dues,” we overhear. “What’s the point of driving from the showroom to the show field?” they say. Point taken, but today’s new cars are tomorrow’s classics. TREND NO. 2 — CLASSICS NO LONGER DOMINATE Again, this is not a stop-thepresses bombshell, but it’s interesting to me that the cars that inspired the Mustang clubs in the first place — the GTs, fastbacks, Mach 1s, and Boss Mustangs — are no longer the biggest draw. I’ve noticed that while they do have a devoted following, they either get sprinkled in among the general show field or they’re given their own section. At Sturgis last year, early Mustangs were given an expansion area on the other side of the main drag, but it was the jellybeans (’94-’04) and ’05current models that had the biggest turnout. TREND NO. 3 — FOXES ARE ON THE RISE Fox Mustangs have bottomed out in value and are now on the rebound. Most non-enthusiasts consider them to be beaters, worn-out jalopies of little or no interest, long bypassed by prevailing fashion and vogue. Not among enthusiasts. They’re on the lookout for the Pace Cars, GT350s, Turbo GTs, T-tops, GTs, and the like. They know a diamond in the rough and are very passionate about the Fox Mustang. This is a trend that’s going to continue.

TREND NO. 3 — FOX ROD VS. RESTO It used to be that every Fox Mustang in a show field was wildly modified. The race was to be more outrageous. These days, I’m seeing lots of modifieds, but they’re outnumbered by restored and original Mustangs. Just like what happened with muscle cars, when the cars get to be around 20 years old, the nostalgia begins to percolate, and tastes change. Originality becomes the driving force. We’re still early in the trend, but there’s no question it’s already in progress. TREND NO. 4 — FOX VALUES ON THE RISE I’m out in front of this one. It hasn’t happened yet, but rest assured it’s coming — the rise of prices. I remember Boss 302s advertised in the back of Hot Rod and Hemmings for $4,500. “That’s a lot of money,” I winced. Then they hit $6,500, then crossed $10,000, then $20,000, and kept climbing. The same thing will happen with Fox Mustangs. What will be the primo models? Saleens seem like obvious front-runners. V-8/manual Pace Cars? Loaded GT convertibles? SVOs? McLarens? Stripper 5.0 LX coupes? It’s too soon to tell. Some things should remain a mystery anyway. But now’s the time to snap up some bargains. What’s even more important than picking the lead horse is having fun at the races, and sharing the fun and excitement of your car with others, especially younger enthusiasts in training who will one day take our place and watch the trends repeat. FMM


Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 7


> > YOU GOTTA SEE THIS

HARD RIGHT-HANDER Checkered flag in sight, Mustang Concept’s customized convertible pulls some high Gs through a right-hand sweeper at the Rocky Mountain Mustang Roundup in Steamboat Springs, Colorado. As flat as it’s cornering, it looks like it has had some suspension tweaking. What better place to flex some Mustang muscle than at Steamboat’s scenic setting? This year’s event is June 14-17. — Photography by Tom Shaw



> > YOU GOTTA SEE THIS FINALIZING THE FOX Ford stylist Jack Telnack’s influence was strongly felt with the all-new ’79 Mustang, shown here in summer 1976. Just over three years before hitting the showrooms, the revolutionary new generation of Mustang had taken final shape. Details like window frames, moldings, light configuration, and badging — typically the last thing to be finalized — were yet to be worked out. Although the ’79 Mustang was introduced after the Fairmont, the Mustang was developed before the Fairmont, making it a rebodied Mustang, not vice-versa. — Jim Smart



PUBLISHER CURT PATTERSON curt@pattersonpublishing.com EDITOR TOM SHAW tom@themustangmagazine.com MANAGING EDITOR BRANDON PATTERSON brandon@pattersonpublishing.com COPY EDITOR LAURA BURKE ART DIRECTOR RHEA VAN ARSDALL CIRCULATION DIRECTOR JASON JACOBS jason@pattersonpublishing.com MUSTANG NATION / EVENTS DIRECTOR JASON JACOBS jason@pattersonpublishing.com WEB MARKETING BRANDON PATTERSON brandon@pattersonpublishing.com ADVERTISING SALES TEAM CURT PATTERSON JASON JACOBS BRANDON PATTERSON OFFICE MANAGER DEB PATTERSON COLUMNISTS SCOTT HOAG KEVIN MARTI TERRY McCOY CONTRIBUTORS KEVIN ADOLF NELSON CARDADEIRO HUW EVANS MATT HIGHLEY MARK LAMASKIN JIM SMART STEVE TEMPLE FOX Mustang Magazine is published monthly by Patterson Publishing, 4755 Drane Field Road, Suite 105, Lakeland, Florida 33811. Subscription Rates (monthly frequency): U.S. 12 issues $24.97; Canada add $15 per year for postage. All other countries add $25 per year for postage. U.S. Funds only. Allow 6-8 weeks for new subscriptions. Send address change to FOX Mustang Magazine, Customer Service, P.O. Box 7517, Lakeland, Florida 33807. Customer Service (877) 279-3010. Patterson Publishing, Lakeland, Florida Phone (863) 701-2707 “Trust in the Lord with all your heart, and lean not on your own understanding. In all your ways acknowledge Him, and He will direct your paths.” Proverbs 3:5-6


ADVANCED MUSTANGOLOGY

>>>>

THEMARTI

REPORT JUST DROP IT

O

n July 9, 1973, the last Mustang convertible rolled off the Ford assembly line at the Rouge River plant in Dearborn, Michigan. With the debut of the ’74 Mustang II, Mustangs would be available only as a notchback or hatchback. In 1976, Cadillac discontinued the only convertible still being sold in the United States. Of course, various coachbuilders were producing one-off conversions, but no U.S. car manufacturer would offer a drop-top for the rest of the decade. Secondgeneration Mustangs were never made available for sale by Ford as convertibles. Early in the ’80s, car companies took notice of the pent-up demand of the American public for convertibles. Although T-tops and sunroofs/moonroofs were good sellers, they were no match for the wide-open feel of a convertible. Mustang jumped back in after a 10-year dearth, and sales exploded. More than 23,000 ’83 Mustangs were ordered in the convertible body style. One out of every five Mustangs sold that year was a convertible. Ford had never seen such a high percentage of Mustang sales be attributable to the convertible. First-generation Mustangs typically hovered around 10 percent of total sales. That year, Fox Mustangs sold at double that rate. Even more remarkable were the economics involved. When the Mustang debuted in 1964, a hardtop cost $2,345. The convertible stickered at $2,587, a mere 10 percent more than the hardtop. When the ’83 Mustang was sold, the GLX sedan model, from which

the convertible was based, cost $7,398. The GLX convertible invoiced for $12,467 — a huge 68 percent increase. That’s a testament to the buying public’s strong desire to own a convertible. Ford didn’t stop there, though. The year 1982 had seen the reintroduction of the Mustang GT. On May 11, 1983, a Mustang GT convertible rolled off the Dearborn assembly line. It was ordered by McCafferty Ford in Langhorne, Pennsylvania. But it would not be the first one sold. That distinction took place on May 27, 1983, at Bill Brown Ford in Livonia, Michigan. It was a beautiful black steed that no doubt turned heads as it roared by. Usually, the color red and the phrase “Mustang convertible” go hand in hand. Going to a car show or looking at the Mustang convertibles for sale on eBay, one would almost believe every Mustang was red. To most people’s surprise, red

was not the most popular color of first-generation Mustangs. But for convertibles, year after year, it was. Typically accounting for 12-15 percent, Candyapple Red and Bright Red were favorites. When convertible production resumed in 1983, people said, “Color me red,” too. But the tale was more so true than before. Now, 25 percent of Mustang convertibles were wearing red. Red was still ahead, but white was right behind, another significant change from the past where it typically hovered in fourth or fifth place. Of course, it could be argued that it was to be expected that a large percent of the Mustangs ordered would be able to go topless. After all, 10 years without a convertible model meant there were few to choose from if you wanted the open-air feeling. And most of them had rolled over the odometer already. Yet, after the

In 1983, the convertible was reintroduced with the slogan, “It’s not just a convertible. It’s a Mustang.”

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 13


ADVANCED MUSTANGOLOGY

>>>>

Year

LX Convertible Sales

GT Convertible Sales

Balance of Mustang Sales

Convertible Percentage of Sales

1983

22,445 (GLX)

993

97,435

19.4

1984

11,344

6,256

123,880

12.5

1985

9,561

5,549

141,407

9.7

1986

13,058

9,887

201,465

10.2

LEFT: Ford continued the “red” theme when marketing the ’86 convertible. BELOW: A whopping 68-percent price increase didn’t stop the stampede to Ford dealers for the convertible Mustangs.

’84 model year was closed, convertible production was still strong and around the 10-percent mark, besting the first-generation Mustangs. This trend continued through 1985 and 1986. A little scorekeeping is in order. By 1986, Fox Mustang convertible production had reached 78,000 units. Those four years saw more convertible sales than the six years of Mustang convertible sales for model years 1968-1973. The Corvette hadn’t been available as a convertible since 1975. Chevrolet brought back the convertible for 1986. They produced 7,315 of them. The Chrysler Corporation made good inroads with convertible versions of their Chrysler LeBaron and the Dodge 600. But the ’86 LeBaron couldn’t crack the 20,000-unit ceiling, and the Dodge 600 (so named to invoke a Mercedes-like sense) barely reached 16,000. The Ford 14 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Mustang sales stampeded the competition in this market segment year after year. In 1986, Ford produced 22,945 convertibles, nearly equaling their Fox Mustang debut year. GT sales accounted for almost 10,000 of these. Ford did have competition coming from its sister company, Mercury, during this period. From 1984 to 1986, Mercury Capris were available at your local Lincoln-Mercury dealer. These Capri convertibles were really roadsters as there was no back seat. Built by ASC/McLaren, they

were never serious competitors to their Mustang cousins. A handful over 500 of these Capris were converted over the three years, with 1986 being the last year the Fox-body Capri was available. With the end of the Capri line came the end of the ASC/McLaren Capris, but they would soon be replaced by ’87 McLaren Mustang convertibles. We’ll stop our analysis with the ’86 Mustang convertible production. A future visit to the Aero Fox convertible will be in order, with its own special story. FMM

Marti Auto Works produces The Marti Report and is licensed by Ford Motor Company with all of their ’67-later production records. This information is available as various reports. Marti Auto Works also has original invoices for millions of Shelbys and Mustangs. Visit www.martiauto.com or call (623) 935-2558 for more info. Email Kevin at kevin@martiauto.com. Not all emails will receive a response.


Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 15


LETTERS

>>>>

FOX MAILBOX FEELIN’ THE LOVE

Outstanding work. The issue is great. Lots of things I like: 1. Good-quality paper and printing, magazine lays right for reading and reference, excellent photos, typeface good, and spacing makes for readability. 2. Nice selection of sections with just enough coverage to spark interest. 3. How-to and product sections are most welcome for me. Time will tell how the content holds up, but you sure are off on the right track so far. Thank you for putting this out for us. John Young San Antonio, TX Just got the first issue of FOX Mustang Magazine, and I love it! I’ve subscribed to Hot Rod since I was 8 (I’m now 35), and every once in a while you might find a good Ford article, much less a Fox-specific one. One question: On page 10, in You Gotta See This, the photo is supposedly a ’90 Fox with T-tops. I thought 1987 was the last year of the T-top cars, with a few in 1988. Correct me if I’m wrong. Anyway, thanks for a great magazine. I’ll be a faithful follower. Rob Yoak Webbville, KY Glad you like the magazine, Rob. We’re having a blast putting it together. You’re right about the T-top car in Issue 1. The Mustang in the You Gotta See This photo is either an ’87 or ’88 model, not a ’90 as per the info provided to us. —Ed. 16 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Just got my new issue. Still have it on my lap as I type this. Best Mustang magazine ever! I love Fox-bodies, and all the other mags are more and more of the newer stuff. All I ever want to read about are Foxes. I have a ’91 GT convertible (see photo). It was a one-owner, all-original car found sitting for over five years beside a house. I’ve had it for almost 10 years now. It has a 347 Stroker with a Vortech S-Trim, a Tremec,

and much more. It may be modded, but if I have to cut to install something, it doesn’t get installed. That ruins the car. Thanks for giving us Fox lovers what we have wanted for a long time. Subscriber for life, Chris Figueroa Via email

I can’t stress enough how thrilled I am with your new magazine. I nearly lost my mind when I found out it was going to be published. My expectations were high, but somehow you’ve exceeded them. The quality of the magazine’s paper and print are a huge plus. The restoration-focused articles are exactly what the Fox-body crowd has been longing for. I am excited about the magazine and hope for nothing but the best for its future. Chris Phillips Lake City, TN

happy with the premiere issue and see only good things for your publication. Thank you for finally putting our Fox-bodies in the forefront with our own magazine. Randy Izatt Via email

Just got my magazine. Great content. I think this ought to be a big success for ya’ll. I’m really

Hey, like our motto says, “Restore it and floor it!” —Ed.

I just want to let you know that I am thrilled with the new magazine. I bought my first Mustang a few months ago and had an idea of how I wanted to build it. Needless to say, your first issue was perfect. My car is an ’89 GT convertible which just happens to be red. I want to make a nice street cruiser exactly like the one on the cover. That one issue covered a few different problems I


have with my car such as paint and window-motor replacement. I really enjoy looking at pictures of actual street cars because it gives me a lot of ideas of what looks good and what doesn’t. You will be receiving my payment for the year ASAP. And I will tell everyone I know about the magazine. Matt Cochranville, PA I just got handed your premiere issue of FMM. Let me tell you, you have struck gold. Between me, my brother, and my father, we have a total of over 20 Fox-body Mustangs, including an ’85 Jalapeno with 1,600 miles, a ’93 Cobra, two ’79 Pace Cars with less than 50,000 miles, and an ’85½ SVO. I continue to circulate your magazine to everyone I come in contact with. We are all in agreement that this is the best magazine of all time. Keep up the great work. Great mix of how-to’s and feature cars. Eric Davidson Cincinnati Foxbody Restoration Milford, OH I am an avid bookworm and have my own library, including many technical manuals and magazines. Your magazine felt like a high-quality build and looked it, too. I really liked: - the quality binding - the matte finish - that it is just a bit wider than other common publications - the pre-formed crease near the binding I’m glad I bought it. Now I hope there are some West Coast–centric content forthcoming. Matt Hamutoff Via email Finally, a magazine that pays attention to the Fox-body ’Stang. No more paying for a magazine just to read one article about the Fox. James Smith Via email

Well you’ve done it again. We got our first issue of FMM. Yowza! Just terrific! You could say that I liked it, but that’s not true...I loved it. Read every page. Your graphics director has created pure eye candy. We have every issue of Mustang Magazine and knew from the excellent quality of photos and content that FMM would be just as good. My hus-

band and I own three Mustangs: a ’65 convertible, a ’69 Mach 1, and a ’92 GT convertible. The ’92 is my favorite to drive. Here’s a pic of her on the Carlisle Ford Nationals show field very early in the morning. Thanks for the great new magazine. I can’t wait for the next one. Jacky Brown Portsmouth, NH

Just wanted to say the new FMM went beyond what I expected. I am likely one of the many first subscribers, going back to August. I’ve already learned things I didn’t know about the Fox Mustang. I have an ’86 Mustang GT with speed-density fuel injection. How about doing an article on what mods can be done to this before going to mass air, such as air filters, exhaust, pulleys, etc., without messing up the computer? Also, how about a step-bystep article on converting it to mass air and the cost that comes with it? Thanks, and hopefully this mag will last for many years to come. Lance Smith Via email

HOLD IT — NOT EVERYBODY’S HAPPY

Good ideas. We’ve got a handful of fuel-injection articles on the way. We’ve also got a poll on our Facebook page (“like” FOX Mustang Magazine) where readers can request a tech article. —Ed.

One lousy pic of a left front fender. Other than that, not one word on the best Fox of all — SVO. Not including the SVO makes a lot of your info WRONG. I know not many were sold, but they go faster and handle better than their 5.0 counterparts. I guess you know what I think of your mag (and where to put it). Larry Demers Merrimack, NH Is that an official challenge, Larry? It definitely sounds like you’re slapping the 5.0 guys with a glove and calling them out. We couldn’t get everything into the first issue. Can you give us a couple of issues before you decide to hate our guts? At this point, I’m not sure we should tell you what’s on page 72 of this issue. —Ed. FMM

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 17




ORIGINALITY AS SHIPPED, PART 2 — INTERIOR By Terry McCoy

T

his is the second in a series on how the Fox Mustangs were shipped from the Dearborn Assembly Plant (DAP), where they were built. Last month we focused on the exterior, showing exactly how an ’85 5.0 LX convertible left the plant with its many protective covers, markings, and stickers that referred to the car’s production or transportation. Cars were either shipped by truck or rail, and were exposed to all types of weather. Ford went to a lot of effort to protect the Fox Mustangs

from damage in transit. Almost all of the things we’re showing in this series were removed and discarded at dealer prep, the dealer’s service procedure that prepares the car for the

Almost all of the things we’re showing in this series were removed and discarded at dealer prep. showroom and the road, before the customer ever sees it. Even if you never display your car as it

Clear, plastic covering for driver and passenger seats: This plastic was a protectant against dirt, grease, spills, etc., during assembly and transport. 20 FOXMustangMagazine.com

would have appeared in predealer prep form, knowing how it looked in its first hours of completion can help you learn and understand the history of your Fox-body. If you do choose to show your car in this un-dealer-prepped state, you’ll probably need to explain your approach to the show judges — that this car has retained all of its shipping decals and plastic. Often, judges aren’t familiar with cars in this state, as it’s rare to see one that has never been dealer prepped.

Driver-side Ford cardboard floor mat: Keeping the carpet fresh and clean during assembly, predelivery, and transport, as employees were in and out of the car.


Radio programming instructions: Small, square sticker attached to the stereo with instructions for setting preset buttons in English and French.

Convertible-top instruction sleeve: Located on passengerside sun visor, it gives step by step illustrations on how to raise and lower the convertible top, and how to install the convertible boot. Back-seat cover: This plastic was a protectant against dirt, grease, spills, etc., during assembly and transport.

Locking lug-nut warning: This rectangular tag hanging on the turnsignal stalk indicated that there is a key, key tag, and locking lug nuts affixed to the lug wrench stored in the back compartment with the spare tire.

Glovebox sticker: In the glovebox was a sticker with the VIN and a barcode that could be scanned to keep track of inventory. FMM

Terry McCoy is a collector and researcher of Fox Mustangs, having owned and studied original low-mile and no-mile cars. He shares his knowledge exclusively in FOX Mustang Magazine.

Next Month:

AS SHIPPED, PART 3 — ENGINE AND TRUNK Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 21


NEWS FOX FOX FOX F MODEL YEAR

THEFTS

2000

7,085

1995

6,790

1998

5,394

2001

5,103

2002

4,226

2003

3,966

1994

3,949

2004

3,234

1996

3,045

1989

2,629

MOST STOLEN MUSTANGS When the bad guys are out in search of a Mustang to heist, which model do they have in their crosshairs? The National Insurance Crime Bureau sifted through the data, and here’s what it found. Only one Fox model makes this dubious list.

SPEAKING OF LISTS… Cars.com has compiled a list of ugly cars, and they’ve included the ’84-’86 Mustang SVO. We would, in the kindest terms possible, suggest that the kids who came up with this answer go back and check their list for highlight-film mutants, like the… • Toyota Echo, so ugly it should require a permit • Suzuki X-90, no car more closely resembles embryonic salamanders • Smart Car, the clown car for the rest of us • Gremlin, proving that even barf-bag ugliness can be stackable • Pick a Volvo

Our Pick: Suzuki X-90

…any of which would make the Edsel look like a handhammered Italian sportster by comparison. With those glaring omissions, it’s hard to take the Cars.com list seriously, especially when some of their “uglies” include the BMW 5 series, Ford Probe, and Lincoln MKT. Their Pick: Ford Probe

SIX GREATEST MUSTANG MOVIE SCENES ’64½ Mustang vs. Aston Martin DB in Goldfinger Short but sweet, Bond’s extended knock-offs shred the femme’s tire, opening the door for him to rescue the damsel. ’71 Mach 1 vs. Las Vegas PD in Diamonds Are Forever Bond tips the Mustang on two wheels to escape the bungling, crash-tastic Vegas Po-Po. 22 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Amazingly, the escape begins on Mustang’s left-side wheels and concludes on the right. ’73 Mach 1 Police Pursuit from Gone In 60 Seconds Long Beach PD is out to apprehend a car thief in a 40-minute-long crash-fest. ’68 Mustang GT390 in Bullitt The Chase. McQueen and his

Can you pick the ugly car here? Cars.com couldn’t.

As ranked by Vehix.com… Mustang. Still talked about, still unsurpassed. ’07 Shelby GT500 in I Am Legend Will Smith has NYC to himself and his Shelby, and a flock of deer. Late-model Mustang gun boat in Death Race Third-grade plot, bullets and explosions galore as prisoners race landbound fighters in a win-or-die battle.


X FOX FOX FOX EASTWOOD COMPANY’S NEW BODY FILLER

The Eastwood Company’s just-launched Contour brand of auto-body filler products brings big upgrades to a muchneeded product. Designed to allow anyone to achieve a smooth-as-glass finish prior to painting, the new line includes: • Premium Body Filler • Lightweight Body Filler • Aluminum Repair Compound • Polyester Glazing Putty • Polyester Primer-Surface …along with a complete array of application, priming, and painting products. From the press release: The Contour™ Premium Body Filler, a custom-blended Eastwood exclusive is extremely easy to spread and sand… superior feather-edging... non-clogging for longer sandpaper life. Self-etching penetrates the surface to create maximum adhesion… rust inhibitors prevent corrosion long after paint has been applied. The Contour™ Aluminum Repair Compound, reinforced with aluminum… stronger, corrosion-resistant repair on factory-leaded seams and high-strength applications, areas prone to moisture… flexible, will not sag during applica-

FOX MUSTANGS AND MUSIC

Ever since the Ford Mustang was first introduced in April 1964, it has been incorporated in song in some sort of fashion. The first obvious marriage is the song “Mustang Sally,” initially recorded by R&B artist Mark Rice and later gaining greater popularity when it was covered by Wilson Pickett. Even before music videos were commonplace, Martha and the Vandellas in 1965 shot a blackand-white video for the song “Nowhere to Run” at the Dearborn Assembly Plant while the production line was in full swing. There was no way Ford was going to stop production of the popular Mustang for a silly music video. When the cable network channel Music Television (MTV) came onto the scene in 1981, music artists quickly found that the music alone wasn’t enough to make a hit song. The visual that was created would have almost the same impact. A couple of ways to make a video memorable was to use hot girls and fast cars. The new Fox Mustangs with their potent 5.0s were the perfect cars for the times. The two most famous uses of 5.0 Mustangs in videos of the era were rapper Vanilla Ice’s customized white GT convertible in the video Ice Ice Baby and rockers Aerosmith in the video Crazy with a black ’91 GT convertible. Ice even

tion… corrosion-resistance prevents rust from working its way through the repair. The Contour™ Lightweight Body Filler, non-clogging, lightweight filler, smooth spreading, easy sanding, pinhole-free surface. It adheres to all metals, galvanized steel, aluminum, and wood, concrete, fiberglass. The Contour™ Polyester Glazing Putty is to fill pinholes, sand scratches, minor imperfections before painting. Can be spread over larger areas, filling imperfections without distorting contours. Spreads easily, very thinly, can be sanded to ultra-fine feather edge. It can be used over sanded substrates, steel, galvanized steel, and it can be mixed with body fillers to improve their spreading and sanding ability. The Contour™ Sprayable Polyester Primer-Surfacer, twocomponent, high-build, sprayable body filler, solid foundation for any paint. Its filling, superior adhesion work well with steel, aluminum, fiberglass, SMC, OE finishes, selfetching primers and body fillers. “High solids, high-build formula allows a laser-straight surface prior to painting. More info: The Eastwood Company, (800) 343-9353, www.eastwood.com

mixed it into the lyrics of the song: “Rollin’ in my 5.0 with my ragtop down so my hair can blow.” Though there was no reference to the Mustang by Steven Tyler in the lyrics, the Crazy video features the Foxbody Mustang in nearly the entire video. Though most recent videos feature current Mustangs, on occasion a Fox Mustang still makes a cameo in a video. A few years back, the singer Fergie used a white special-edition LX convertible in the Glamorous video. She referenced the car in song, “reminiscing on days when I had a Mustang.” Artist merchandising is also part of the money-making music machine. T-shirt sales at concerts help with the bottom line, and here, too, Fox Mustangs played a part. The picture here features a four-eyed Fox on a T-shirt for the glam metal band Ratt while they were on tour in 1987 promoting the Dancing Undercover album. All of the above music videos can be found on YouTube. Send us a note if you know of any other videos with Fox Mustangs. FMM — Nelson Cardadeiro


SHOW COVERAGE & EVENTS

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EVENTS/

NMRA BRADENTON MARCH 2-4, 2012

“A car show on the grounds and a decent swap meet gave the crowd extra entertainment and a chance to pick up some parts for their projects.”

24 FOXMustangMagazine.com

N

ot far from Bradenton, Florida’s renowned beaches is the DeSoto Dragstrip, home to the NMRA’s first event of 2012. No snow or tornados, but a stiff wind blew right up the track on Saturday and kept ETs down. A car show on the grounds and a decent swap meet gave the crowd extra entertainment and a chance to pick up some parts for their projects. It looked like Fox buyers and sellers were very active. We saw lots of parts walking out with new owners, and sellers told us business was brisk. Whole cars were for sale, too, to go with those parts. Modifieds dominated in the show field, with most being well-crafted cars of Fox age or newer. For Mustang enthusiasts waiting out winter, the trip to Florida for an early taste of warm weather and hot action only heats up the desire for the upcoming show season.


TOP RIGHT: Glenn Kaeser blended body parts from Saleen, Xenon, and Cervini’s to craft this ’85 GT drop-top in Toreador Red Pearl Metallic paint. The engine and driveline were also extensively modified. Sharp ride. BELOW: Talk about your hot cars — these two take the taco. Crowds came running to see these jet dragsters making low-6-second exhibition runs. We’re guessing they don’t have problems with tailgaters.

MIDDLE RIGHT: There were some good cars for sale, such as this clean, straight, ’86 LX 5.0 convertible for $3,000. RIGHT: Standing tall in the short grass was Ron Mick’s ’91 coupe, carefully customized and covered in an orange color — how appropriate considering all of the nearby citrus groves.

EVENTS MAY 5.4-5.6 | MECHANICSVILLE, MD NMRA www.nmradigital.com

5.5 | ANTIOCH, CA MUSTANGS, FALCONS, COUGARS, AND MORE! www.dvma.org

5.6 | WOODLAND HILLS, CA MUSTANG ROUND-UP AND ALL FORD SHOW www.mustangownersofca.org

5.5 | WOODBRIDGE, VA SPRING MUSTANG AND ALL FORD SHOW www.ncrmc.org

5.5 | PRATTVILLE, AL OPEN CAR SHOW www.hodmc.org

5.12 | HUNTSVILLE, AL MUSTANG AND ALL FORD POWERED SHOW www.rocketcitymustang.com

5.5 | EVANS, GA SPRING MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW www.csramc.org

5.5 | SALEM, VA MUSTANG AND FORDPOWERED SHOW www.roanokevalleymustangclub.com

5.12 | DUBLIN, GA “VISIT WITH A VETERAN” CAR, TRUCK, AND BIKE SHOW www.heartofgeorgiamustangclub.com

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 25


SHOW COVERAGE & EVENTS

>>>>

TOP LEFT & ABOVE: Also superclean was this fiery red hatch with a supercharged mod motor. We didn’t get the driver’s name, but we left our business card on the window. MIDDLE LEFT: For Sale: ’88 GT hatch, slick paint job, wheels, ready to roll. $5,199 or best offer. Still available at press time. The trailer was for sale, too.

BELOW LEFT: For Sale: Low-mile ’86 SVO Mustang with custom paint and wheels, $8,500. The owner built it as a race car, then changed his mind and returned it to stock, except for the paint.

EVENTS 5.13 | WILMINGTON, DE FIRST STATE MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW www.firststatemustangandford.com 5.18-5.20 | NASHVILLE, IN SHELBY SPRING FLING www.indianasaac.com 5.19 | UNION CITY, GA MUSTANG AND ALL FORD SHOW Bob Mathews; 770.787.9427

26 FOXMustangMagazine.com

5.19 | JACKSONVILLE, FL MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW www.jmcmustang.org

5.19 | BURLINGTON, NC CHARITY CAR SHOW www.mustangsofburlington.com

5.19 | SUISUN, CA BIGGEST LITTLE CAR SHOW www.goldenhillsmustangclub.com

5.20 | CUDAHY, WI ALL FORD SHOW AND SWAP www.wemustangers.com

5.19 | MARLBOROUGH, MA MCCNE AMERICAN IRON CRUISE www.mccne.com

5.20 | MECHANICVILLE, NY SPRING DUST-OFF CAR SHOW www.nyasmc.com


TOP LEFT: For Sale: Parting out 5.0 hatch. U-pull in trailer. The car was picked pretty clean. MIDDLE LEFT: Top-Loader four-speed – $750. Core carbs, intakes, axles, N.O.S. head, small-block 2x4 intake with carbs — the trick to selling parts is to cut the price. People still buy parts, but the price has to be competitive. MIDDLE RIGHT: This upper-class car with a whopper turbo was being prepped for the next round. The turbo is mounted forward of everything to get plenty of clean, cool air. BOTTOM RIGHT: The NMRA has plenty of high-octane action. See the show schedule at www.nmradigital.com.

FMM

EVENTS 5.25-5.26 | MILLINGTON, TN HIGH SPEED FUN Jim Chism; 615.973.3518 5.26 | HOUMA, LA TERREBONNE FORD’S MUSTANG AND FORDS SHOW www.selabyumustangclub.com 5.26-5.27 | ALBUQUERQUE, NM MUSTANG ENCHANTMENT Frank McMullan; 505.294.7902

5.27 | PHOENIXVILLE, PA CHESTER COUNTY MUSTANG SHOW www.thevfmc.org JUNE 6.1-6.3 | CARLISLE, PA FORD NATIONALS www.carlisleevents.com 6.2 | HILLSBORO, OR ALL FORD AND SWAP MEET www.mustang-club.com

6.2 | WICHITA, KS ALL FORD AND MUSTANG SHOW www.sckmc.com 6.3 | KANSAS CITY, MO MUSTANG, COBRA, AND FORD-POWERED CAR SHOW AND SWAP MEET www.midamericamustangers.com 6.3 | WEST DES MOINES, IA ALL-FORD CAR SHOW AND SWAP MEET www.mustangclubofcentraliowa.org Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 27




TRAVEL

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MUSTANG

NATION TEXAS Edition A DIRECTORY FOR MUSTANGERS, BY MUSTANGERS

ANNUAL EVENTS

W

ouldn’t it be great to have one complete source — a giant directory of the Mustang world — where you can find parts vendors, restoration and mechanical shops, shows and events, great diners and restaurants, roadside attractions, races, drive-ins, and just plain old neat things? FOX Mustang Magazine has set out to build just that — a master resource. Whether you’re into restoring, racing, or just cruising and having some fun, let this directory be your guide to places of interest for Mustangers. The directory will be divided into the following regions: Florida, South, Mid-Atlantic, New England, Midwest, Great Plains, Texas, Rocky Mountains, Southwest, California, and Pacific Northwest. Will you help us build it? If you know of a place or business that your fellow Mustangers would appreciate knowing about, please contact Jason Jacobs at jason@pattersonpublishing.com; (877) 279-3010.

30 FOXMustangMagazine.com

1 FUN FORD WEEKEND Baytown March

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2 ALL-FORD SHOW Conroe April 3 MUSTANG AND ALL-FORD SHOW Silsbee April 4 OPEN CAR SHOW Corpus Christi April 5 TEXARKANA MUSTANG STAMPEDE Texarkana May 6 MUSTANG ROUND-UP AND CAR SHOW Lubbock August

9 MUSTANG FEST Port Aransas October 10 COBRAS BY THE BAY Corpus Christi November

7 YELLOW ROSE CLASSIC Fort Worth August

11 HOUSTON AUTORAMA Houston November

8 CHARITY OPEN CAR SHOW San Antonio October

12 NMRA RACING Houston November


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TEXAS

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TRAVEL

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Dr. Pepper Museum, Waco

ATTRACTIONS 13 THE ALAMO San Antonio (210) 225-1391 14 CREATION EVIDENCE MUSEUM Glen Rose (254) 897-3200 15 DR. PEPPER MUSEUM Waco (254) 757-1025 16 JOHNSON SPACE CENTER Houston (281) 483-0123 17 SEA WORLD San Antonio (800) 700-7786 18 SIX FLAGS Arlington (817) 640-8900 19 TEX-ARK ANTIQUE AUTO MUSEUM Texarkana (870) 772-2886 20 TEXAS STATE AQUARIUM/ USS LEXINGTON Corpus Christi (800) 477-GULF 21 TEXAS STATE CAPITOL Austin (512) 463-5495

RESTAURANTS 22 BIG TEXAN STEAK RANCH Amarillo (800) 657-7177 32 FOXMustangMagazine.com

23 THE COVE San Antonio (210) 227-2683

35 JOHN’S MUSTANG Houston (800) 869-5646

24 GREEN MESQUITE BBQ Austin (512) 479-0485

36 LATEMODEL RESTORATION Hewitt (254) 662-1714

25 LANKFORD GROCERY AND MARKET Houston (713) 522-9555

37 MSD El Paso (915) 857-5200

26 MAC & ERNIE’S ROADSIDE EATERY Tarpley (830) 562-3250 27 JOHN MUELLER’S OLD TOWN BBQ Bastrop (512) 308-9818 28 PETRIFIED WOOD GAS STATION, CAFÉ, MOTEL Decatur (940) 627-7785

38 NITROUS EXPRESS Wichita Falls (940) 767-7694 39 PAINLESS PERFORMANCE Fort Worth (817) 244-6212 40 QUANTUM PERFORMANCE Farmers Branch (972) 620-4440 41 SSNAKE OYL Tyler (800) 284-7777

29 SPRING CREEK BARBEQUE Arlington (817) 467-0505

42 TEXAS MUSTANG Waco (800) 527-1588

30 TOWER STATION AND U-DROP INN Shamrock (806) 256-2501

MUSTANG RESTORATION SHOPS

31 TWISTED ROOT BURGER CO. Dallas (214) 741-ROOT

43 ALAMO CLASSIC PONIES San Antonio (210) 647-8264

MUSTANG PARTS & SERVICE

44 JEFF LILLY RESTORATIONS San Antonio (210) 695-5151

32 AUTO ETC. NEON Harlingen (956) 425-7487

45 LEEZO BROTHERS AUTO CRAFTERS Irving (972) 438-8061

33 C&S PERFORMANCE Plano (972) 578-3550 34 DALLAS MUSTANG Dallas (214) 349-0991

46 MID CITIES MUSTANG Euless (817) 267-2667 47 PC PERFORMANCE Corpus Christi (361) 549-9525

FMM


Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 33


NEW PARTS

>>>>

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE SUPER STREET CAGE Kenny Brown Performance reintroduces its popular Super Street Cage for Fox Mustangs. The cage is finished with a durable, black wrinkle powdercoat and comes with all required hardware and instructions for installation as well as a lifetime warranty. Kenny Brown Performance www.kennybrown.com (855) 847-4477

FORD 8.8-INCH REAREND GIRDLE

Brad’s Custom Auto rearend girdles are designed to add support to the bearing caps under severe load. Made from 356-T6 cast aluminum, they have a fill port and drain port for ease of servicing. They also increase fluid capacity by approximately ½ pint. Brad’s Custom Auto www.bradscustomauto.com (206) 367-1471

MASTER CLUTCH REPLACEMENT KIT The SVE Mongoose master clutch replacement kit from Latemodel Restoration is designed for ’82-’95 5.0 Mustangs and includes everything you need for a clutch swap: steelbacked, organic-lined friction disk; FRPP main seal; and new OE flywheel. Reportedly good for up to 350 hp at the rear wheel. Latemodel Restoration www.latemodelrestoration.com (866) 507-3786

34 FOXMustangMagazine.com


E=HP DRIVESHAFT SPACER If you’ve installed, or are installing, a Tremec or C4 in your ’79-’93 Mustang, the driveshaft may be too short. This E=HP driveshaft spacer from Emmett Head Performance eliminates the need to have a custom shaft made for length deficiencies of 3/8 inch to 11/16 inch. Emmett Head Performance www.emmettheadperformance.com (478) 922-4247

GPS SPEEDOMETER SENDING UNIT This GPS sending unit from Speedway Motors simplifies the installation of your electronic speedometer. It’s a sealed unit that uses GPS triangulation to calculate true ground speed regardless of gear ratio, tire size, or any other mechanical factors. Speedway Motors www.speedwaymotors.com (800) 979-0122

HIGH-PERFORMANCE FANS Maradyne’s Pacesetter Series fans improve engine cooling, horsepower, and A/C cooling at idle. The fans are quiet and eliminate vibration. Available in 10-, 12-, 14-, and 16-inch sizes. Maradyne www.maradynehp.com (800) 403-7953 ext. 656

FMM

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 35


C

lassic Fox Mustangs were born handlers, thanks to a lot of forward thinking at Ford in the mid-’70s. Ford took Mustang to the next level with a more sophisticated suspension system. Rear leaf springs were gone in favor of a European-style four-link suspension with coil springs and shocks. This thrust the Mustang away from its more traditional roots and into an era of exceptional handling from the new, lightweight Fox platform. Though the four-link was a great idea three decades ago, it has worn out its welcome when

36 FOXMustangMagazine.com

you consider its dated architecture, coupled with wear and tear throughout the years. We’re working on an ’89 Mustang GT at Mustangs Etc. in Van Nuys, California. The car has suffered from rough treatment and miserable Los Angeles ozone, which takes a heavy toll on rubber and plastic components. The rear suspension bushings are shot, and the control arms aren’t what they need to be for canyon cutting and crisp handling. So we’re looking to UPR Products for handling solutions and have received them in the form of affordable tubular

steel upper and lower control arms for ’79-’93 Mustangs. The Mustang’s four-link suspension is actually quite simple in scope. Upper control arms, which are shorter, keep pinion angle where it belongs and limit side-toside axle movement. Lower control arms are longer and support the coil springs, keeping the axle from moving fore and aft. Because Ford used rubber bushings at each end of these control arms, they are quite flexible — perhaps too flexible. A significant problem that surfaced early with the four-link was axle hop, which


is why Quad-Shock suspension was adopted in 1983, first with the Thunderbird Turbo Coupe and Cougar XR-7 Turbo before showing up on the Mustang SVO in 1984 and the GT in 1985. This gives us more maintenance issues to think about, including axle dampers when it’s time to replace shock absorbers. Axle dampers, which are mounted perpendicular to the shock absorbers, prevent axle hop under hard acceleration. 1: Rear control arm replacement is easy once you get the axlehousing properly and safely supported on both sides.

1 Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 37


2: With the axlehousing properly supported, disconnect both shock absorbers at their axle attachment points. This is a good time to replace shock absorbers and axle dampers.

2

3 & 4: To take off the rear sway bar, remove the two fasteners on each lower control arm. Watch yourself when it comes to bar tension — protect your face and eyes. Make sure there’s no bar tension.

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5: Once the rear axle support is removed, the axle drops down far enough to remove the coil springs.

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6: Lower control arm removal is next as shown, beginning with the control arm to axle bolts. 7: The lower control arm to chassis bolts come off next, which should free the arm.

6 38 FOXMustangMagazine.com

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8 & 9: Lower control arms are removed one at a time. Original factory control arms are sheetmetal stampings that allow too much flex. Worn-out and deteriorated bushings add insult to injury. Our UPR Products’ tubular arms will provide extraordinary strength and stable handling.

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10: The UPR tubular upper and lower control arms for ’79-’93 Mustang rear suspensions breathe new life into an old Fox thanks to urethane bushings and lightweight steel tube construction. You will feel the difference immediately. 11: Urethane bushings are lubed for quiet operation prior to installation. Lube both bolts and bushings for best results.

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 39


12: Lower control arm installation should be easy, though sometimes you will have to widen the attachment points, especially at the chassis.

12

13: The right lower control arm is removed and inspected. Though the bushings are intact, they’re deteriorated from the desert ozone and an extremely dry climate. 14: The right-hand lower control arm from UPR Products is installed and secured, again using plenty of urethane lube on the bushings and bolts.

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15 & 16: Both lower control arm attachment bolts are torqued per the Ford Shop Manual. Use a jack to check the axle for freedom of movement.

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17 & 18: The upper control arms are detached from the axlehousing and body at this time. It’s no wonder there was a terrible clunk driving over irregularities in the road. The stock rubber bushings are shot, allowing excessive controlarm play and misalignment issues.

17 40 FOXMustangMagazine.com

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Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 41


19: New UPR upper control arms are an easy fit. As with the lower arms, bushings and fasteners have been lubricated for easy installation and smooth operation. Fasteners are tightened, and a jack is used again to check the axle’s freedom of movement. 20: With the axle unsupported, coil springs are reinstalled. This is also a good time for new springs; however, they weren’t in the car owner’s budget — and that’s OK because you can improve your underpinnings one segment at a time.

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21 & 22: The rear sway bar is reinstalled, attached at the inboard side of each lower control arm.

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23: With the axle properly supported, shock absorbers are reconnected. Again, we suggest replacement of both shock absorber and axle dampers for best results.

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24: Our completed UPR package looks sharp and improves handling significantly because it limits suspension movement outside of normal parameters. Neither the control arms nor the urethane bushings flex, thereby offering better handling right off the bat.

FMM

SOURCES MUSTANGS ETC. 14843 Bessemer St. Van Nuys, CA 91411 (818) 787-7634 www.mustangsetc.com

24 42 FOXMustangMagazine.com

UPR PRODUCTS 750 S Eastcoast St. Lake Worth, FL 33460 (561) 588-6630 www.uprproducts.com


Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 43




G

ray foxes have distinctive markings — grizzled upper parts, black tail, and a shovel-shaped face. This Fox Mustang, though, has completely different traits. Underneath that subdued, dove-colored paint scheme prowls a predator with a blown 5.0, plus a host of muscular mods for the chassis. The warning signs are obvious: a Stalker front fascia and bulging Cobra-style cowl hood, customized with a blue checkered-flag graphic. That racetrack imagery isn’t merely for show. A Vortech V-1 centrifugal supercharger, spinning a 2.870-inch pulley, runs 8 pounds of boost, good for 400-plus ponies. A pillar pod gauge monitors the extra pounds of pressure flowing into the mill, while a T-Rex pump and Ford Racing 24-pound injectors furnish more fuel to keep up with the forced induction. Making the most of the boosted airflow are GT40 heads, matchported to the Cobra intake and fitted with machine-cut, lock-wire gaskets (to provide better sealing on supercharged engines). A Crower 15511 cam (lift 0.303/ 0.292-inch intake/exhaust, duration 218/224 degrees intake/ exhaust, lobe separation 114 degrees) precisely coordinates the valve events. Backing this pumped-up powerplant is a World Class T-5 trannie with a clenching grip from a Ford Racing King Cobra clutch. Other mods include Progress Technology lowering springs, Tokico shocks, Panhard bar, subframe connectors, and a Stainless Steel Brakes rear discbrake conversion. Even so, the constricted exhaust system needed some personal attention. That came in the person of Ron Wheeler of RDW Automotive, who spotted this ferocious Fox at his shop in Reno, Nevada, on his

46 FOXMustangMagazine.com


“Vehicles for Sale” bulletin board. This ’89 Mustang GT had been listed for $8,000, but nobody took the bait, including Ron. The owner was getting anxious, though, and approached him with an offer he couldn’t refuse. Though Ron is known for his meticulous restorations of older Mustangs and Shelbys, this Fox-body quickly became a favorite of his and his wife, Dianna, because it reminded them of an old acquaintance. They once had a real nice ’89 hatchback, but, “Due to my aggressive driving habits, we decided to prevent getting tickets by selling the car,” Ron recalls. “After selling that car there was a definite vacancy. Well, a few years later this Dove Gray car came about, and I jumped right on it.” While many of the mods mentioned previously were already on the car, Ron could hardly resist improving on the good breeding,

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 47


and there was that one odd trait that needed some refinement. The exhaust system started off with Thorley 1⁵⁄₈-inch shorty headers dumping into 2½-inch collectors and a BBK X-pipe and high-flow cats. But for some unknown reason, as the tubing proceeded to the rear, it got much smaller. The existing exhaust measured only 2 inches, and the turndown was so sharp that it was kinked. It was like this poor gray Fox had its leg caught in a trap. So Ron applied his talents to opening up the exit flow with bigger custom tubing. With those exhaust mods and a clean air filter, he really perked up the engine by dropping the blower pulley size down from 3.2 inches and raising the boost from 6 to 8-plus pounds. Of course, with more power, the underpinnings needed some attention, too. “We replaced the stock rear arms with Ford Racing lowers and Edelbrock adjustable uppers,” Ron says. “I also swapped out the stock Ford Posi with an Eaton True Track centersection, and changed the axles to 31-spline, five-lug units, and fivelug front disc brakes.” Adding those items and the split-five, 18-inch wheels gave him the confidence for aggressive cornering at the track, while the upgraded differential really helped put the power to the pavement. Not surprisingly, after enjoying some foot-stompin’ fun with the power upgrades, it wasn’t long before the clutch was done for, so he upgraded to a Ford Racing King Cobra clutch kit. Doing business as usual, Ron took a Cobra-style cowl hood in trade towards other parts and handed it over to Eric Collins at Final Finish to apply some coolblue art that complements the soft-gray factory paint. At the right 48 FOXMustangMagazine.com


angle, the waving flag treatment almost looks real. Ron added a few more graphic touches, too. “The theme I had always wanted to achieve with this car is a graywith-black look,” he says. “That’s why I applied black to the 5.0 and horse emblems, as well as adding the reflective black Mustang GT letters to the side ground effects.” The final touch was tinting the side and rear windows as well as the sunroof glass. He says that really helps with Reno’s hot desert sun. But we’re inclined to think what this predator really needs is a bit of camouflage for going on the prowl. FMM

SOURCE

RDW AUTOMOTIVE 1186 Telegraph St. Reno, NV 89502 (775) 323-1362 www.rdwauto.com

A NEWER FOX VS. OLDER STEEDS What inspires a guy who restores classic Mustangs to jump to a younger ponycar in midstream? Ron explains, “Previously, Dianna and I had owned a ’66 GT fastback four-speed with Pony interior, as well as a ’66 Shelby clone. We loved both of these cars and the nostalgia, but to compare those cars with this ’89 GT hatchback…well, there really is no comparison in the shift linkage.” Ron points out that the ’89’s shifting is much tighter and quicker for better response on the roads and at the track. And because of the quick response, many people are converting their classic cars to the samestyle transmissions for superior performance. Also, the steering in this ’89 is very responsive with the rack-andpinion setup, in obvious contrast to what the classic “stock” cars have with the worm-gear steering system. Again, this is an upgrade that so many classic-car owners are converting over to in order to have more steering control on the road, Ron notes. All in all, he concludes that there are many benefits to this ’89 that many classic-car owners strive to duplicate in their classics, creating a great car with a great ride and nice handling on the road. “This Fox-body is a joy to drive on a cruise to Lake Tahoe for pleasure, as well as pounding the track at Fernley Raceway,” Ron says. “Having an automotive service and Mustang restoration shop here in Reno, Nevada, I have restored and driven many early Mustangs, which I love. But for the fun of every effect, such as the power handling and style, this Fox does it all.”

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 49



1989 Mustang GT Owner: Ron Wheeler Reno, Nevada

Photography by Steve Temple


TECH

>>>>

HEATER CORE

REPLACEMENT Cutting the bummer factor from the Mustang’s most-dreaded job story and photography by Matt Highley

A

sk anybody who’s ever replaced one and they’ll agree — the worst repair on just about every car is the heater core. Hopelessly buried beneath the dark, dusty dash, a failed heater core is enough to make you consider just doing without the heater, or maybe scrapping the car. The thought of removing the dash is overwhelming. Having the work done by a shop isn’t too appealing either. At 5.9 hours and a labor rate average of about $80 per hour, you can run up a heck of a bill in a hurry. At Fox Mustang Restoration, we want to show the weekend warrior how to make this task a little less daunting. The most common mistake made by DIYers is removing too much from the interior. After the console is removed, there are only eight mounting bolts holding in the entire dash. It’s not necessary to remove the instrument cluster, A/C controller, glovebox, or the radio. Does that give you some hope? For this project you’ll need hand tools, including a couple of special ones — a ⁵\₈-inch A/C line quick-disconnect tool and an 8mm ¼-inch universal socket. Fox Mustang Restoration has a heater-core replacement kit (part number 4479004; $57.99) that includes a heater core, both hoses, and four hose clamps. If the temperature control knob on your A/C controller doesn’t turn easily, this would be a great time to replace your blend door cable (part number 3285009; $24.99) as well. We’ve removed the front seats for easier access to the dash. This is not necessary but recommended. Let’s get started. 1: Remove the center console, starting at the armrest. Remove the oval access hole covers on both sides at the rear of the console. Use your 8mm socket to remove the four bolts. Slightly tilt the armrest assembly towards the rear of the vehicle; then pull it up. 52 FOXMustangMagazine.com

1


2

2: To take out the console center tray, remove the two screws at the front under the shifter bezel and the two at the back, visible with the armrest removed. Pull up on the e-brake and remove the console center tray. Once out, disconnect the two electrical plugs underneath — one for the mirror adjuster; one for the cigarette lighter.

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3: The console is also attached to the dash. To remove, open the glovebox and squeeze both sides together to allow it to swing all the way down. There are two screws that need to be removed. On the opposite side of the console, the lower steering column panels will need to be removed to access the other two screws. 4: Remove the shifter handle from the shifter. Finally, remove the last two screws at the rear of the console. The radio can be taken out, but it’s not necessary. Remove the console from the car.

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5: Next, the steering column will need to be dropped. Remove the column plastic covers. Unplug all of the electrical connectors. Remove the two 14mm nuts holding the hood release cable. There are two more nuts behind these, and finally two more in the rear towards the firewall. Lay the column on the floor. 6: To remove the outer cluster bezel, first remove the headlight and emergency flasher switches. Use a small screwdriver to push in the retaining clip on the side of the switches. Then pull straight out to remove. Remove the bezel and loosen the cluster. 7: Reach behind the cluster to disconnect the speedometer cable. The trick is to grab the white collar between your thumb and index finger. Position your thumb on the collar’s tab, push in, and cock the collar. This should unlock the cable and allow it to be removed.

7 Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 53


TECH

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8

8: For access to the dash mounting bolts (five across the top, three across the bottom), remove both dash speaker grilles (remove Phillips screw; lift off), both kick panels (remove single screw at sill) and the defrost vent (pops out). Remove dash bolts (circled). Once removed, the dash will be completely loose with just wire harnesses and cables holding it in.

9: With the dash disconnected, pull the passenger’s side toward the center of the car to gain working room for the heater case. Disconnect the two upper mounting bolts and the four electrical connections (circled).

9 54 FOXMustangMagazine.com

10

10: Don’t crack the case! There is a hidden bolt on the bottom side of the case near the floorboard. It’s best to remove this 11mm head bolt before you pull the dash loose.


11: To remove the blend door cable you’ll need to pull the metal retaining clip off of the blend door arm. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, squeeze the retaining clips together on the cable mount. Pull through the mounting hole.

11

12: Time to move under the hood. You will have to empty the A/C system since you will be removing the accumulator. Have a local auto shop recover your Freon for recycling. 13. With the A/C system empty, use an 8mm universal socket to remove the heater clamps; then remove the heater hoses. The job is a little easier if you remove the A/C accumulator first (it’s still in place here).

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14: Use ⁷\₈-inch and 1¹/₁₆-inch combination wrenches to break loose the accumulator nut. Do not turn the nut on the evaporator side; it does not move, and you will ruin the evaporator. Turn the large, black nut. 15: Loosen the pinch bolt used to retain the accumulator and lay it aside. Remove the retaining nuts for the accumulator bracket. Behind this are the last two nuts that are holding in the heater case.

16: Use a ⁵\₈-inch quick-disconnect tool to remove the A/C line from the evaporator. 17: Time to recruit a buddy. Have a friend hold the dash out of the way while you remove the heater case. It may take a good tug to get it loose. Once out, remove the four 8mm head screws to remove the heater access cover.

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 55


TECH

>>>>

18. The repair kit from Fox Mustang Restoration is $57.99, and the blend door cable, if needed, is $24.99 — cheap when compared to many other cars.

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19: Remove the leaky core. Clean out all of the leaves and other debris from the case. Now it’s time to start reassembly. Carefully install your new heater core, being sure not to damage it.

19

20 20: Have your friend hold the dash out of the way while you install the heater case. Have the two upper bolts ready so you can use these to hold the case in place while you finish the install. 21: Install your new heater hoses while you have everything apart and the accumulator is out of the way. Then install the bracket and accumulator. 22: When installing the dash, it’s easiest to put it into place and then tighten the nut in the steeringcolumn area. The hole is slotted, so the nut needs to be unscrewed only a few threads.

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23: Finish the dash installation in the reverse order that it was removed, and install the center console. FINAL STEP: Top off the cooling system. To recharge the A/C you will need a vacuum pump to remove the moisture from inside the system before charging with Freon. Any auto shop will be able to perform this service.

FMM

23 56 FOXMustangMagazine.com

SOURCE FOX MUSTANG RESTORATION 105 Pine Forest Dr. Locust, NC 28097 (704) 888-1278 www.foxresto.com


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R

ace on Sunday; sell on Monday. It’s an old adage that’s been around for decades, and it has worked for car manufacturers all over the world, including Saleen. Most know that Steve Saleen began building custom street cars in the mid-’80s. What many don’t know is that by 1986 Steve was building and racing Saleen R-models. Saleen built 16 factory R-models, fewer even than Shelby’s 26 R-models. Because so few were built, it’s even rarer to see one in person, let alone four under one roof. The most recognized Saleen

race cars are nicknamed the “bumble-bee” cars from 1987 to 1989. Saleen built only eight of these R-models from brand-new cars, and they were destined to be race cars from day one. Saleen campaigned these cars from 1986 to 1989 in an endurance race series, constantly testing them at 12- to 24-hour races with multiple drivers. The venue, the SCCA Escort Endurance Race Series, was sponsored by the Escort Radar Detector company. Escort and Saleen had other partnerships throughout the Fox-body ages, since an Escort radar detector was an option when purchasing a Saleen from

the dealer. The Escort Endurance Race Series was intended to showcase the best that all the manufacturers had to offer and was better known as Showroom Stock, meaning the cars had to be raced in the same trim as if you purchased the car off the showroom floor. Keeping the cars mostly stock was to deter “ringers” from being custom built by the manufacturers. All cars had to have a production VIN, and only minor modifications were allowed. The only allowable engine modification was engine blueprinting and balancing for durability, while for the suspension, shock and spring changes were about it. As for interiors, all cars had to have a SCCA-approved roll cage, fire system, and race seats. Other than those few changes, the cars were stock inside. The passenger seat was a stock Saleen Flofit. The door panels

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were still stitched with the Saleen logo. The dash was stock. All of the interior panels were truly Showroom Stock. That’s about where “stock” ends with these cars, though. As with any form of racing, Showroom Stock or not, if you want to be out front you need to push the boundaries a bit. Saleen went one step further by hiring Dave Dixon, a former F1 engine builder, to head up their engine program. A factory-stock Mustang 5.0 would put down about 200 rwhp on a chassis dyno, but a Dixon-built motor put down 265 rwhp, giving the Saleen team a distinct advantage over its competitors. Dixon had the task of finding a little more horsepower out of the completely stock powerplant while keeping the overall appearance as stock so the SCCA officials would be none the wiser. One way he found extra power was to use a set of preproduction GT-40 cylinder heads with a stock E7 casting equipped with a set of factoryappearing, stamped rocker arms with a larger ratio. During a visual inspection, they looked completely stock. Another trick was a then-new process called Extrude Hone, running an abrasive material through the intake runners under pressure to open them up without creating visible porting marks as with grinding. This increased the flow to match the GT-40–style cylinder heads. To help hide the unapproved modifications that Dixon had done to the cylinder heads, he had them shot-peened to look like factory castings. Inside the engine, one last mod was a custom camshaft that Dixon spec’d 60 FOXMustangMagazine.com

with stock lift values, but with custom overlap and duration which was optimized for the high rpm seen during road racing. Another trick Dixon found was a Lincoln LSC speed-density intake tube, which flows more air than the stock Mustang piece. As well, he took the stock Ford headers and slightly ported them to increase exhaust flow. Behind the headers, all R-models used a Ford Motorsport off-road pipe and 2¼-inch DynoMax mufflers. Another thing you may notice is that ALL of the ’87-’89 Saleen R-models are Speed Density and

not Mass-Air. Dixon found that the stock Speed Density computers worked better with these modifications but needed to be upgraded to 24-pound injectors to compensate for the increased airflow. Dixon would actually have Saleen try dozens of ECUs to find the best one for each motor since they had to be factory sealed and never tampered with. This may sound like a lot of work to go Showroom Stock racing, but…well, welcome to racing. The cars ran stock T-5 transmissions, but they too were blue-


printed to ensure reliability under 24-hour abuse. Ratios remained stock, but Saleen would use 3.55:1 and 3.08:1 rear gear ratios, depending on the track. The rear differentials were prototype parts from Auburn. The “Pro” differential they currently sell was prototyped on the Saleen race cars. This is a cone-type differential that gave the Saleen Rs a better launch off the corners. These completed engine packages also included hidden stamps on all of the parts. Each engine was issued a specific number, so when they were rebuilt none of the parts got mixed up. The tricks of the bumble-bee cars did not end with just the drivetrain. Saleen also massaged the body to accommodate 8-inch-wide wheels in the front with one inch of added track width. This additional front track kept the cars square with the additional inch of rear track from the Saleen rear disc brakes with 8-inch rear wheels. The ’86-’88 cars ran the stock Saleen brakes on all four corners, but the ’89 cars ran a set of upgraded JFZ front brakes because Ford offered them in the Motorsports catalog. Saleen’s tire sponsor was General Tire, and they provided the team with G-compound race rubber that was much wider than the tire size branded on the side of the tires — another advantage Saleen. Suspension was also not quite stock. Saleen installed harder bushings in a few of the control arms, and each car had specific springs to account for the driver’s weight and to optimize corner balance and cross weights. The ’88 cars had 750pound fronts and 300-pound rears, depending on the track, but the later ’89 cars ran 1,000-pound fronts. With all of these modifications the cars were still close to factory weight due to the addition of the roll cages, but they started lighter than stock due to the lack of A/C and other power options. The racing history for each car is unique because there could be as many as five drivers at any one race. The list of drivers for these Saleen R-models reads as a “who’s who” of late-80s’ big name drivers, including Tommy and Bobby Archer, Calvin Fish, Rick Titus, Pete Halsmer, George Follmer, Desire Wilson, Lisa Caceras, and of course, Steve Saleen. The tracks they raced are also renowned: Road Atlanta, Mosport, Mid-Ohio, Sebring, Sears Point, Portland, Road America, and Brainerd.

’87-’89 Saleen R-Model Features

Showroom stock body

OEM Saleen five-spoke wheels

Stock 5.0. Well, mostly…

Pressurized on-board fire extinguisher

Easy-access computer

Bright colors prevent pit mistakes

Full roll cage

Stock passenger seat

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 61


About Our Feature Car

Today, its racing days over, this rare racer resides at Performance Autosport in Richmond, Virginia, part of a set of four General Tire bumble-bee Saleen R-models. Owner Mark LaMaskin and a Performance Autosport customer have carefully preserved this part of Fox Mustang history. But even as pedigreed R-model racers with obvious collectability, these cars still get exercised at the track now and then — keeps ’em happy. SPECIFICATIONS: Production Saleen R-Model ’87-’89

8

Dimensions

Induction

EFI

Camshaft

single, in block 1.78/1.46 dual pipes/mufflers, four catalytic converters

Wheelbase (inches)

100.5

Overall length (inches)

179.6

Valve size, intake/exhaust (inches)

Overall width (inches)

69.1

Exhaust

Height, hardtop and hatchback (inches)

52.1

Front track (inches)

57.1

Rear track (inches)

57.0

Curb weight (pounds)

2,890

Base price

$13,372

Current est. value, depending on race history

$60,000-$90,000

Engine Type

V-8

Bore and stroke (inches)

302

Displacement (CID/liters)

5.0

Compression ratio

9.2:1

Horsepower, factory rating

225 @ 4200 rpm

Torque, factory rating

300 @ 3200 rpm

Horsepower, actual rwhp on chassis dyno

253 @ 5000 rpm

Torque, actual rw torque on chassis dyno

308 @ 3600 rpm

Suspension Front suspension

modified MacPherson hydraulic shock struts with coil springs and stabilizer bar

Rear suspension

four-bar link and coil spring system , w/antisway bar

Steering

power-assisted rack-and-pinion

Brakes, front rear

power-assisted 11-inch rotors single piston calipers SVO rear disc - single piston

Tires

General XP2000Z - 245/50/15

Drivetrain Transmission, manual (standard)

T-5 five-speed

Axle Ratio, five-speed (standard))

3.55

Performance Quarter-mile (seconds)

13.9

0-60 (seconds)

5.8

FMM


Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 63


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HEADER HEAD’S-UP Better performance begins with this simple and affordable modification story and photography by Jim Smart

H

eader” is bench-racing slang for high-performance tubular exhaust manifold. Headers take the ragged and bumpy cast-iron-manifold trip for hot exhaust gasses and smooth the ride. Headers employ primary and secondary tubes along with collectors, which streamline exhaust flow from your engine into the exhaust system. Today, there are so many header types in a competitive market that it can

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become overwhelming. How do you make the right choice? Header selection isn’t just about aesthetics, fit, and easy installation. It’s also about how compatible headers are with the rest of your engine. You’ve been told dozens of times by car magazines that your engine is an air pump. Yes, but it’s more than just an air pump. We’re also mixing it with fuel, squeezing it, burning it, and turning heat energy into rotary motion. Then

we’re moving those hot, burned gasses quickly through the exhaust ports. This production of power isn’t seamless but rather a continuous series of power pulses. Compression, rpm, valve and ignition timing, cam profile, and Scavenging is using the pressure pulse of one cylinder’s exhaust charge to create a small amount of vacuum and help “pull” the exhaust out of an adjacent cylinder.


cylinder head and intake manifold port design all contribute to what happens at header tubes when exhaust pulse arrives. It isn’t just one exhaust pulse, but four, six, or eight of them in unison. One pulse affects the others, which complicates the subject beyond

shorter collector is conducive to high rpm. This is why smaller collectors and primary tubes make more sense for street use. Good low-end torque is what most of us want on the street. Primary tube size determines gas velocity right out of your engine’s

not just in the header, but also in pipes, catalytic converters, mufflers, and tailpipes. Even tailpipe tips affect exhaust-system performance. There’s no perfect formula. One ongoing controversy is the power gain of equal-length shorty headers. Based on our dyno-test-

HEADER TUBE SIZING

Primary tube sizes range from 1½ inches to 2³/₈ inches. A stock 5.0L High Output engine needs no more than 1³/₈- to 1½-inch primary tubes. Rules change when you increase displacement or step up to supercharging or nitrous. It’s always better to err on the side of large versus small to avoid engine damage and help performance. Collector (secondary) tube size and length don’t matter as much on the street as they do in racing. our space to explain. Suffice it to say that primary tube size needs to be tailored to the engine based on variables like power output, displacement, cam profile, compression, cylinder head port design, and maximum rpm expected. Primary tube size is your first priority, followed by secondary/collector tube size and header length. Fox Mustangs are limited by size, clearance, and tough emission standards. Here’s a good formula to remember when you’re shopping headers: Larger primary tubes are better for high rpm and horsepower; smaller primary tubes are better for low-end torque. Larger secondary tubes (collectors) raise the powerband. The longer the collector tube, the lower the powerband, and conversely, a

1: These are Summit Racing Equipment’s SUMG9030 long-tube headers. Designed primarily for off-road use, these are true, full-length headers, which provide the best scavenging. However, long-tube headers aren’t always the best decision for street-driven, late-model Mustangs because you also want to be environmentally responsible. Some long-tube headers make it impossible to employ catalytic converters, which are federally mandated. Check your local smog laws before making changes. And one more thing: If you have EEC-IV CFI or SEFI, there must be a provision for oxygen sensors and Thermactor air pump.

exhaust ports. The smaller the primaries, the faster the hot gasses flow, which can help low-to-midrange torque depending upon cam profile (valve overlap). Primary tube size needs to increase when we start spinning an engine high, which is where big horsepower is made. At maximum volumetric efficiency, hot gasses roar into primary tubes in excess of 240 feet per second. Primary tube length also affects where peak torque takes place. When we shorten primary tubes, the powerband goes higher. Lengthen primary tubes, and peak torque occurs at lower rpm. From the time hot gasses enter primary tubes, a rhythm is created under the right circumstances, promoting good scavenging. This spirit of cooperation takes place

ing experience, we’ve found there isn’t much difference between equal-length shorty and conventional, unequal-length shorty headers in street applications. Equal-length shorty and long-tube headers do their best work at high rpm with an open exhaust system or low-restriction mufflers. From traffic light to traffic light, there isn’t much difference. Shorties improve appearance and do improve torque and horsepower. Naturally, you want to know how much power you’re going to gain. The answer depends on many variables — the header you choose, cam profile, induction, heads, and more. You could change any one thing and either improve or erode power.

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EMISSIONS AND HEADERS

Fox-body Mustangs can accommodate two basic types of headers: long tube and short tube (shorty). There are also mediumlength headers, which are a compromise between long and short. Long tubes scavenge better but are more challenging due to

strict emission standards where catalytic converters must remain. It’s actually possible to have catalytic converters with long-tube headers. Another emissions curveball with long-tube headers is catalytic converter temperature.

With long tubes, cats don’t always get hot enough to be effective. In some states, you won’t get long-tube headers through a smog check unless you have an emissions-legal exhaust system with the required number of cats.

2: Shorty headers, like these ceramic-coated scavengers from JBA, are smog legal and drop right in place of stock headers. Because they are ceramiccoated, heat stays inside where it belongs, and your engine compartment stays cooler.

2

Home garage logic tends toward bigger is better, but not with headers on street engines and weekend racers. Streeters and weekend racers need exact pipe sizing where you don’t have too much or too little. Header and exhaust pipe size is dictated by horsepower and torque figures. If you’ve stroked your 5.0L engine to 347ci (5.6L), the exhaust system has to match the

increased displacement. If you’re running stock exhaust manifolds (’79-’84) or factory headers (’85’93), restriction is unacceptable and you will sacrifice power. Worse yet, your engine will suffer from higher combustion and exhaust temperatures, which can cost engine life. When you’re shopping for headers, shop not only quality and design, but also proper pipe sizing.

3: Look at the difference in primary tube size between stock ’85-’93 shorty headers (top) and aftermarket shorties (bottom). Not only are primary tubes stifling on a stock shorty, but also quality is in a different league. Note the welds at the flange. The aftermarket header has one long flange that ties all ports together. The stocker has individual flanges.

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4: Not all headers are created equal. JBA invented the high-performance aftermarket shorty header. This is the JBA shorty with mandrel-bent tubes and the patented Firecone collector, which streamlines and accelerates exhaust scavenging. This makes the JBA one of the most popular factory replacement sporty headers ever.

5: Quality is easy to see. Header flanges and primary tubes should be solid with machined surfaces that mate perfectly with cylinder heads. Use only the best exhaust manifold gaskets from FelPro and the best locking fasteners. Torque header bolts uniformly and to specifications for best results.


6: Header quality also translates to header fit. How well do they fit? Not all fit well, while others fit extraordinarily well. Shorty headers, on average, are the easiest installation because they drop right in place of factory headers and manifolds. 7: Once you’ve decided on header size, you must decide on exhaust-pipe diameter. Most 5.0L Mustangs are happy with 2¼ and 2½-inch pipes. The larger your pipe diameter, the more low-tomidrange torque you’ll sacrifice. 8: When we think about header fit, access is everything to choice. Header flanges must clear spark plug sockets to where you don’t have to loosen or remove the header to perform service. If you’re running aftermarket cylinder heads, you can expect to run into some clearance issues with header flanges. Another important issue is header flange thickness. Most are ⁵\₁₆ -inch thick. The best headers have a ³\₈ -inch–thick flange. 9: Currently, the aftermarket does not offer a California smog-legal four-cat package for 5.0L High Output Mustangs. This means you must have a four-cat package fabricated by a muffler shop to pass a smog check. Flowmaster offers a two-cat system that’s legal in some states but not all. Check your local smog laws before committing to a system.

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CUSTOM HEADERS

It may seem extravagant, but custom headers are fabricated for street use all the time for special applications, oddball cylinder heads, tight clearances, specific power demands, you name it. The key to success here is finding a good fabricator who understands what you want. Anyone can hang up a shingle and call themselves a fab’ shop. Because you’re paying premium dollars for header fabrication, you have a right to expect craftsmanship. Be advised, it is expensive and time-consuming. Insist on seeing samples of their work before committing. Get an estimate in writing and expected time for completion. Don’t be surprised if the price winds up higher than the estimate.

10 10: Custom headers can be fabricated for specific needs, and there are a lot of fabricators who can do a nice job for you, but they don’t come cheap. Custom headers can cost upwards of $1,200 just for starters. It’s all about time, materials, and craftsmanship.

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11 & 12: Custom headers are so expensive because of the time and materials involved. Custom Performance Racing in Southern California offers custom headers for nearly any street or racing application, and you can expect outstanding craftsmanship.

13: Collectors, as the name implies, gather exhaust pulses, channeling them into your exhaust system. Conventional collectors are fading from popularity because they tend to blow gaskets and leak. Ball-and-socket and flangestyle collectors are becoming more common and are trouble-free.

POPULAR HEADER CHOICES

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14 & 15: JBA Performance headers from PerTronix were among the first aftermarket shorty headers in the industry and are manufactured to the highest standards. Today, JBA headers short and long tubes are available in a variety of tough ceramic coatings.

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19 & 20: Bob Hedman founded Hedman Hedders back in 1954 and made high-performance exhaust tubes for Salt Flat racers. His hobby quickly turned into a business and a legacy that remains with us today. The company survives because it is always asking people what they want in a header. This is the Hedman shorty #88600 in black for ’86-’93 5.0L Mustangs, also available in a variety of coatings. It drops right in place of your stock shorties in an afternoon.

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SOURCES BBK PERFORMANCE 27440 Bostik Ct. Temecula, CA 92590 (951) 296-1771 www.bbkperformance.com

21 21: We like these Ford Racing stainless steel shorties from Latemodel Restoration Supply. Because the #M-9430-P50 shorty is stainless steel, you never have to sweat rust or flaking paint. And because this header is designed and engineered by Ford, you can expect perfect fit and factory-level quality. What makes these Ford Racing headers most appealing is price, just $239.99 — a good header for the money.

22 22: Here’s the Doug’s equal-length shorty header for ’86-’93 5.0L Mustangs. Available in a variety of coatings, the #D6674-R is California-legal and ready for shipment from PerTronix. Although fitment can get tricky with any equal-length short header, this high-performance shorty header works best at high rpm and makes a great weekend racing scavenger.

23: Summit shorty headers for ’79-’93 5.0L Mustangs are among the best bargains going. Priced at just $159.95, these factory drop-in replacements have mandrel-bent 18-gauge steel 1⁵\₈-inch primary tubes and 2½-inch collectors, and are available in a variety of coatings. Ceramic finishes cost more.

24: Did you know you can buy BBK Performance products from California Mustang and that they’re in stock, ready to ship? These are BBK Performance Premium Series shorty headers for ’86-’93 5.0L Mustangs from California Mustang. 70 FOXMustangMagazine.com

CUSTOM PERFORMANCE 115 E. Gardena Blvd., 1B Gardena, CA 90248 (310) 427-7486 www.cprengines.com FLOWMASTER 100 Stony Point Rd., Ste. 125 Santa Rosa, CA 95401 (800) 544-4761 www.flowmastermufflers.com HEDMAN HEDDERS 12438 Putnam St. Whittier, CA 90602 (562) 921-0404 www.hedman.com

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CALIFORNIA MUSTANG 19400 San Jose Ave. Industry, CA (800) 775-0101 (909) 598-3383 www.cal-mustang.com

HOOKER HEADERS 704 Hwy. 25 S. Aberdeen, MS 39730 (662) 369-6153 (270) 781-9741 (Tech) www.holley.com

25 25: The Patriot headers from PerTronix are another excellent value — affordable, good looking, and because we’ve installed Patriots on our own Mustangs, we can tell you the fit is excellent. This is the #H8476 shorty for ’86-’93 Mustangs with 5.0L High Output power. FMM

PERTRONIX 440 E. Arrow Hwy. San Dimas, CA 91773 (909) 547-9058 www.pertronix.com SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT 1200 Southeast Ave. Tallmadge, OH 44278 (800) 230-3030 (330) 633-2555 www.summitracing.com


16: Hooker Headers is a Holley brand these days, bringing together two great names in high performance. This is the Hooker #6227-1 HKR ceramiccoated long-tube header for ’79-’93 5.0L Mustangs, with 1.75-inch primaries and 3.00-inch secondaries. These are metallic ceramic-coated and also available in black (#6227 HKR). Both have oxygen sensor provisions. 17: Few companies know ’79-’93 Fox Mustangs better than BBK Performance. This is BBK’s Equal Length #1512 header for ’86-’93 5.0L Mustangs. Equal length means better performance gains at high rpm. BBK’s employees are enthusiasts who install what they sell on their own Mustangs. Check out BBK’s website and see for yourself. 18: Not many companies have been around as long as Doug’s Headers, founded in 1958 by Doug Thorley. Recently, Doug’s Headers has joined PerTronix Performance Products while maintaining its outstanding reputation. This is the Doug’s #D6671 long-tube coated header for ’86’93 5.0L Mustangs, featuring a thicker machined flange for good fit, mandrel-bent 14- and 16-gauge tubes, precision-formed collectors, and provisions for oxygen sensors.

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K

evin Kymer really wanted a Boss 302, but that wasn’t going to happen on his college-student income. After graduating, he got a good job, with a company car as a perk. With daily wheels supplied, it was time to find a weekend warrior. The Boss 302 still wasn’t in the cards, but Kevin did read about a new Mustang being introduced for 1984 that shared the Boss 302 philosophy — powerful, smalldisplacement engine; well balanced; with exceptional handling. That was the new Mustang SVO. The SVO’s 2.3-liter overheadcam four cylinder was turbocharged and intercooled, giving it a horsepower rating very near the 5.0L V-8 GT, much like the Boss 302 output was equal to the 351 and not that far from the big-block 390 and 428. Lighter-weight engines helped balance the SVO and Boss, and gave them handling superior to their bigger-cube stable mates. But 15 years of engineering advancement gave the SVO a more uptown feel and hightech demeanor, not to mention greater fuel economy, than the old Cleveland-head 302. So when Condit Ford in Newton, New Jersey, was having its Mustang 20th Anniversary sale in April 1984, Kevin decided to get face to face with this new upscale and technologically advanced pony car. On the lot were three new SVOs and one demo model. Kevin prepared to take one for a test drive but it wouldn’t start. His second choice started but broke down on the test drive. At this point most would have dismissed the SVO as unreliable gadgetry and diverted to the tried-and-true 5.0 GTs. But Kevin was undeterred. That short test drive gave him a taste of the fantastic work that the Special Vehicle Operations team had come up with in this new, hot hatchback. Plus he says the GT “… was kind of bland. I wanted something more unique.” Kevin sat down with the salesman and ordered a Medium

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Canyon Red Metallic SVO with Charcoal leather interior. He decided not to fully option it out and add the sunroof option since it cut down on headroom and he wanted to keep the interior cooler. The salesman advised that it would take 8-12 weeks to process his order, but just three weeks later his new ride arrived. Kevin finalized the details of the transaction. With rustproofing, extended warranty, and taxes, the SVO’s outthe-door price was $18,025 — pricey for a Mustang, but not for one with strong European flair. Early on, Kevin decided he was going to keep this car for the long haul. He planned to keep the mileage low and began accumulating original Ford parts. He made several trips to the Carlisle Swap Meet in Pennsylvania and drove to Charlotte, North Carolina, for the Mustang’s 35th Anniversary show in 1999. Even a divorce and a move across country to the

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 75


San Francisco Bay Area couldn’t separate the two. One of Kevin’s most memorable experiences with his SVO was driving it on the Charlotte Motor Speedway during the 35th Anniversary festivities. Though he was supposed to be driving “parade laps,” Kevin reached 105 mph, keeping up with a friend in a ’70 SportsRoof. Because of the steep banking, Kevin says, “Your head hits the driver’s door glass when you slow down.” Though not a big drag racer, he made a few passes at Maple Grove Raceway, running a best ET of 16.1, a time he says is more a reflection of his bad reaction time than the SVO’s potential. On the road, Kevin reports fuel consumption as high as 30 mpg and as low as 14 mpg “…when you kick in the turbo a lot.” Today this SVO has registered only 25,366 miles, just like Kevin had planned all along. It’s completely original, right down to the set of ’84 SVO-specific Goodyear NCT rubber. The Goodyear Gatorbacks used on later SVOs and GTs were proprietary for the Corvette in 1984. The SVO engineers settled on the NCT European tire used on the Porsche 928. Throughout the years, Mustang Club of America judges have recognized Kevin’s SVO with seven Gold awards in the Unrestored class, most recently in 2010 in Bellevue, Washington. At the 2008 Grand National Show in Park City, Utah, he won the highest honor for an unrestored car, the Platinum award, bestowed only at MCA Grand National shows to recognize Mustang owners who have conserved their original cars to the highest degree possible. From the crystal-clear headlamps to the sparkling chrome exhaust tip, this SVO looks as pristine as the day Kevin pulled out of the Condit Ford lot. When asked if he wished he had purchased the much rarer competition-prep SVO, Kevin says the thought does cross his mind from 76 FOXMustangMagazine.com


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time to time. “It being my first new car, though, I wanted all the bells and whistles,” Kevin says. “I regret it a little, but I probably wouldn’t have enjoyed a comp-prep as much and might have gotten rid of it. Having no A/C would quickly get old in the New Jersey heat.” Even though the SVO isn’t as highly valued as Kevin’s original dream car, the Boss 302, his fanatical upkeep and low mileage on his Mustang make it desirable, and make Kevin a Special Vehicle Owner. FMM

HORSEPOWER: SVO VS. 5.0 H.O. VS. TURBO GT ENGINE

CODE

2.3 SVO

W

hp: 175 @ 4400 torque: 210 @ 3000

2.3 Turbo (Turbo GT)

T

hp: 145 @ 4600 torque: 180 @ 3600

5.0 H.O. 4V/five-speed

M

hp: 175 @ 4000 torque: 245 @ 2400

5.0 EFI/auto

F

hp: 165 @ 3800 torque: 245 @ 2000

78 FOXMustangMagazine.com

1984



TECH

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FUEL PUMP R&R They all go bad. Here’s how to remove and replace an inoperable fuel pump with a high-performance, electric one from BBK Performance story and photography by Jim Smart

F

uel pumps used to be where we could see them, right up front on the corner of the engine. When they failed, they were easy to replace. But in 1986, with Ford’s new Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection (SEFI), fuel pumps became electric and vanished into the fuel tank. Technically, electric fuel pumps arrived with Ford’s Central FuelInjection Mustang GT Turbo and SVO in 1984. The more mainstream stuff came along in 1986 with SEFI. We know fuel pumps are there because of that brief hum when the ignition is turned

80 FOXMustangMagazine.com

on and we hear them pressurize the system. Electric fuel pumps provide fuel under pressure to feed the electronic fuel-injection systems. A fuel-pressure regulator at the engine’s fuel rail regulates pressure to approximately 40 psi. These pumps hum tirelessly for thousands of miles and many years without complaint. Electric fuel pumps should be replaced every 100,000 miles in order to maintain the pressures required by Ford to feed hungry 5.0L High Output engines. BBK Performance stocks

direct-replacement, highvolume, electric fuel pumps for ’86-’93 Mustangs, making it easy to replace your worn-out pump without any special modifications. Before you begin replacement, make sure the fuel tank is empty for ease of handling. Fill and drain a second tank of water to remove fumes. Keep all ignition sources away from the tank — that includes trouble lights, anything electrical, and all lighters and smoking material. Don’t take chances with gasoline. A garage fire is an ugly thing.


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1: Fuel-pump replacement begins with fueltank removal. Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the filler neck from the body. 2: Use a 12mm socket to disconnect the filler neck at the fuel tank. 3: Disconnect the fuel-tank sending unit/ electric-pump combo plug at the tailpanel. Easy does it with these old, fragile, plastic multiplex plugs. They’re dry and brittle and easy to crack.

3

4 & 5: Support the fuel tank and remove the strap fasteners in front of the tank. We’re supporting the tank with a cart, with the car on a lift. However, you can use a floor jack. With an empty tank, there isn’t much weight.

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6: As the tank is lowered, disconnect the fuel-filler neck. The fuel-filler neck is a slide fit into the rubber tank grommet. This is a good time to replace the tank grommet. 7: Disconnect the evaporative emissions hose. This is also a good time to replace the evaporative emissions charcoal canister, hoses, and grommets, in the interest of both the environment and your safety.

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>>>> 8 & 9: To quick-disconnect the fuel line hoses, we’re using this #25043 disconnect tool available from www.amazon.com. Priced at about $10, it’s worth every penny. Insert the appropriate end into the quick-disconnect fuel lines, and pull on the coupling.

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10: The fuel pump and fuel-level sending unit are in two different places on ’86-’93 Mustangs. This is the fuel-sending unit midtank, which should be replaced when you replace the pump. Latemodel Restoration Supply has original Ford part (#LRS-9275B) at $159.99 or reproduction part (#LRS9275BR) at $54.99. 11: When you look at the ’86-’93 fuel tank this way, it’s easy to see how everything is configured. Pump and evaporative emissions are located at the highest point on the right. The fuel-sending unit is at the lowest point on the left. Both are retained the same way fuel-sending units are secured on classic Mustangs — with a turn ring and rubber O-ring. Removal takes a common screwdriver, hammer, and aggressive love taps.

10

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11 12: Here’s what you have to work with from BBK Performance. Four pumps are available depending upon your needs. This is the #1526 pump on the right with a capacity of 110 lph (liters per hour), which will drop right in place of your worn-out pump without special modifications. The price is $99.99 plus taxes and shipping.

12 FOUR CHOICES, FOUR BBK PUMPS #1526

’86-’93

110 lph

$99.99

#1527

’86-’93

155 lph

$114.99

#1606

’86-’93

190 lph

$129.99

#1607

’86-’93

255 lph

$134.99

Issue 3 1 FOX Mustang Magazine 83


TECH

>>>> 13: Using an 8mm socket, disassemble the pump assembly as shown.

13

14

14: The pump to line hose is retained with conventional worm-gear clamps. This is the time to replace your fuel-line hose. Remember, this is a high-pressure application, which calls for high-pressure hose designed for fuel-injection applications. You also want hose that will stand up to today’s harsh fuel additives, such as ethanol, which is corrosive. 15: Power leads are disconnected next. The BBK pump has different connectors, which call for splicing and soldering. 16: The BBK pump is equipped with a quickdisconnect multiplex plug, which must be spliced into the existing electrical system.

15

16

17: The BBK pump is positioned as shown. Note the perfect fit in the factory bracket. Secure the hose and clamps. Do not overtighten. 18: Factory wiring is spliced into the BBK pump wiring. Here, we’re soldering these connections, but you don’t have to. Marine schedule butt connectors work just as well when properly crimped. Just remember: red to red, and black to black. Use heat-shrink tubing around these connections. 19: Use an 8mm socket to secure the pump back into the bracket.

17

20: Install the fuel screen/sock next, before pump installation. 21 & 22: Carefully install the pump assembly. Where it gets tricky is at the rubber O-ring seal, which needs to be lubed with a thin film of white grease for adhesion purposes and flexibility. Seat the pump assembly and secure the lock ring. 23: The pump and evaporative emissions are secure. 24: Raise the tank into position, and install the fuel filler neck.

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19

20

21

22

23

24


25

25: Lube the pump-to-vehicle lines and click them in place. Give the lines a gentle tug to make sure they are locked solid.

26: Once the tank has been reinstalled, all that’s left is the pump/sender multiplex plug.

26

27: This is a good time to replace the fuel filter while you’re underneath. Use your line quick-disconnect tool for this task as well.

FMM

27 SAFETY FIRST

If you’re concerned about fuel system safety, Fuel Safe has racing-fuel cells like this one (#SA-110A) for ’80-’93 Mustangs. The cost is approximately $1,200, depending on how far you intend to go with your fuel system.

SOURCES BBK PERFORMANCE 27440 Bostik Ct. Temecula, CA (951) 296-1771 www.bbkperformance.com FUEL SAFE SYSTEMS 1550 NE Kingwood Ave. Redmond, OR 97756 (800) 433-6524 www.fuelsafe.com LATEMODEL RESTORATION SUPPLY 400 Jan Dr. Hewitt, TX 76643 (254) 296-6500 www.latemodelrestoration.com

86 FOXMustangMagazine.com


Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 87


TECH

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INTROSPECTION How to discover your Fox engine’s true internal condition, without the teardown story and photography by Huw Evans

1

C

aveat emptor (let the buyer beware) applies to Fox Mustangs more than most cars, since many have been driven hard and/or modified over the years. If you’re shopping for your next Fox Mustang, the last thing you want to do is fork over your hard-earned dough only to discover that the engine is on its last legs. A leakdown test is one of the best things you can do before you buy. Here’s how to do it.

WHAT’S A LEAKDOWN TEST?

A leakdown test measures the engine’s ability to hold compression in the cylinders. A cylinder with lots of wear will have loose 88 FOXMustangMagazine.com

tolerances, allowing its compression to leak away fairly quickly. A healthy cylinder will have tight tolerances, giving the compressed air nowhere to leak away. This test uses a leakdown tester, incorporating one or two airpressure gauges, a regulator, and a flexible rubber hose with a threaded fitting. It works by threading the end of the fitting into the spark plug hole in the cylinder head and routing another hose to a source of compressed air. Leakdown testers are available through most auto parts stores and cost approximately $80-$150 from popular suppliers like Harbor Freight, Matco Tools, Snap-On, etc. It’s a small investment con-

sidering the potential problems that can be discovered lurking between those valve covers.

HOW TO PERFORM A LEAKDOWN TEST

To accurately perform a leakdown test, the engine needs to be close to operating temperature before you begin. The cylinder in question must have the piston positioned as close as possible to Top Dead Center (TDC). Marking the crankshaft damper for each cylinder’s TDC position will save a considerable amount of time later. Next, remove the spark plug from the cylinder you’re testing. Do only one plug at a time or you won’t get an accurate reading. Make sure the tester gauge is set


to zero; then carefully screw in the fitting to the spark plug hole. Get a friend with a big socket and breaker bar to gently rotate the crankshaft to bring the piston as close to TDC as possible, allowing the piston rings to properly seal against the bore of the cylinder. Fill the cylinder following the gauge manufacturer’s instructions, usually around 80 psi. With the piston at or close to TDC, the pressure inside the cylinder can often force the piston down the bore. Have your assistant hold the breaker bar in place to keep the piston at TDC. Watch the gauges for loss of pressure. The gauge reads in percentages. For a healthy engine, a leakdown of 10 percent or less is considered the norm. Once you’ve measured the leakdown percentage at a particular cylinder, remove the testing apparatus, reinstall the spark plug, and move on to the next cylinder, repeating the process until you have a written record of all eight. Besides the leakdown at a particular cylinder, a way of measuring the engine’s overall mechanical health is by comparing the

COMPRESSION VS. LEAKDOWN TEST What’s the difference?

COMPRESSION TEST A compression test measures the amount of pressure a piston creates inside the cylinder as it rises to top dead center (TDC) with the valves closed. Like a leakdown test, the reading is taken at the spark plug hole, but unlike it, all the spark plugs are removed for a compression test. Furthermore, it is advisable to run the engine for around 15- 20 seconds before performing the test and removing the spark plugs. Doing this will help blow out any carbon in the cylinders. Crank the engine several times, making sure to crank it the same amount for each cylinder (so if you rotate the crank for No. 3 five times, do the same for No. 7, etc.). A compression gauge will measure the cylinder pressure inside the bore in Pressure per Square Inch (PSI). If the PSI is consistent across all cylinders, say 140, 155, 160, 145, it tells you that the engine is in reasonable health. The higher the bore pressure, the more likely there is a problem. The drawback with a compression test is that it isn’t able to accurately measure the percentage of pressure lost through each cylinder, as the readings are affected by a number of factors including engine, speed, carbon deposits, even the battery’s charging ability. LEAKDOWN TEST A leakdown test on the other hand, because it is a static test (conducted when the engine is not moving), is able to measure cylinder pressure, and the reading is not affected by any other factors, such as engine speed. Because the leakdown test gives you a specific percentage reading for each cylinder and you can listen for the air escaping from said bore, it’s able to indicate exactly where a specific problem is located, unlike a compression test, which is only able to tell you that something is wrong with the engine.

2

1 1: Our subject vehicle is this ’89 Mustang GT with over 160,000 miles on the clock. The car is a little worse for wear and is a good example on which to perform a leakdown test.

2: The first task is to remove the spark plug for the cylinder being testing. Once the plug is out, thread in the fitting.

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SO WHERE IS THE AIR ESCAPING TO?

Compression can escape from the cylinder in one of four ways — by the piston rings, past the intake valve, past the exhaust valve, or through the cylinder head gasket. The gauge will tell you how much air you’re losing. A hissing sound helps pinpoint where the air is leaking from. Pistons/Rings. Remove the valve cover oil-filler cap. If you hear the hissing sound coming up through the valve cover every time pressure is applied, air is leaking past the piston rings. If you’re consistently losing 20 percent plus on one or more cylinders, you’re looking at a major teardown to inspect the pistons, rings, and cylinder walls. Intake Valve. Prop open the throttle blades. If you hear hissing from the intake manifold when pressure is applied, air is escaping up past the intake valve(s) into the intake tract. Sometimes, tapping on the intake valve of the cylinder you’re testing can indicate how bad the problem is. If the leakdown percentage drops, the valve might just be sticking. If the leak remains consistent (and high, 20 percent or more), this indicates valve damage, a bad head gasket, or possibly a cracked head or block. A cracked head or blown gasket will likely show up as a milky look in the engine oil. Exhaust Valve. Have an assistant listen for a hissing sound from the tailpipe. If it is heard every time you apply pressure, air is escaping past the exhaust valve. As with the intake valve, if the loss is consistently high, you’ll need to remove the head and inspect the valves. loss of all cylinders. Fairly consistent loss for all cylinders is a healthy sign. A big variation for one or more cylinders means there’s a problem, such as scored cylinder walls, worn piston rings, or bad head gaskets. Our subject vehicle for this particular leakdown test was a rather well-worn ’89 Mustang GT. It was a good example on which to perform such a test, because the car was in fairly rough shape, and the original 5.0L H.O. V-8 had more than 160,000 miles on the clock. 4: Our findings revealed that However, our leakdown test actually revealed that, despite the car the 302 V-8 on this car, looking worn on the outside, the despite the high mileage, engine was rather healthy considwas in reasonable health. The greatest percentage loss ering the mileage. Cylinder No. 5 of pressure was found on recorded the highest leakdown cylinder No. 5, which lost 14 percentage (14), while No. 4 was percent. The rest hovered next (at 11). Cylinder No. 8 between 5 and 11 percent. checked in at 10 percent, and the rest ranged from 5 to 9 percent. In fact, after changing the fluids, installing new plugs and wires, along with some other minor maintenance and fitting new wheels and tires, we drove this car 10 hours to the Carlisle All-Ford Nationals. It ran like clockwork there and back. 3: On the leakdown tester, the gauges are measured in percentages. On a really healthy engine, there should be less than 10 percent loss of pressure on each cylinder.

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5: Once the test had been performed, we elected to pull and replace all the spark plugs. Our replacements were a set of Motorcraft ASF42Cs. These plugs are extremely popular among Ford enthusiasts and suitable for high-performance applications.

6: Note the corrosion on our used example. It was definitely time to change the plugs. The rest of the ignition system was inspected and found to be in good shape.

7: Once we drained the mineral oil and changed the filter, it was time to fill the engine with fresh 20W50 synthetic. Because 5.0s run hot, most mineral oils, like 10W30, tend to thin out quickly, which over time can increase the risk of friction and wear on the moving parts. By contrast, thicker, synthetic oil does a very good job at lubricating and protecting the reciprocating assembly on these engines, particularly under high-performance conditions. In fact, long-time late-model Mustang specialist, Joe DaSilva, who assisted us with this article, says he has torn down some very high-mileage 5.0 engines run on 20W50 and found virtually no wear on the bearings.

5

6 8: Knowing that we have a healthy motor and following some other basic servicing and maintenance, including adding a set of new 16x7-inch Pony wheels and Nitto NT high-performance rubber, we hit the road, destination the All-Ford Nationals in Carlisle, Pennsylvania. The trip took 10 hours to get there and 10 back, but our Mustang ran like a top all the way, proving that our leakdown test was both time and money well spent. FMM

SOURCES DASILVA RACING 960 Brock Rd. Pickering, ON L1W 2A1 Canada (905) 837-7700 www.mustangtoystore.com

7

HARBOR FREIGHT 3491 Mission Oaks Camarillo, CA 93011 (800) 444-3353 www.harborfreight.com MATCO TOOLS 4403 Allen Rd. Stow, OH 44224 (866) 289-8665 www.matcotools.com

8 Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 91


FOX MUSTANGS FOR SALE

>>>>

FOXHUNT ’93 LX 5.0 COUPE

Engine: Supercharged 5.0 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 55,000 Location: Denmark, SC

’86 MUSTANG GT

$11,000

Contact: Kevin (803) 541-2463 huttoden@hotmail.com

$16,000 O.B.O.

Engine: 306 ci ProCharged Transmission: Five-speed Mileage: 80,000 Location: Gaylordsville, CT Contact: Jamie (203) 616-0060 jamiestang89@aol.com 92 FOXMustangMagazine.com


’90 MUSTANG GT

$5,700

Engine: 5.0 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 51,000 Location: Croton-on-Hudson, NY Contact: Blaise (914) 400-3805 bfranciosa@gmail.com

’91 MUSTANG GT

Engine: 302 ci Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 9,500 Location: Seattle, WA Contact: Earl EJB@ecgmc.com

$15,000

FMM Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 93


Q & A

>>>>

FIX

MY FOX by Scott Hoag, MRT Direct

Have a question about your Fox Mustang? Ask our expert, Scott Hoag, former Ford Mustang engineer and Team Manager. Send your questions, and a pic if possible, to brandon@pattersonpublishing.com.

STEERING COMMITTEE

Q

My ’87 5.0 LX coupe has 143,000 miles on it, and I need to replace the steering rack. Do you recommend using the OEM original or one of the aftermarket replacements? Are there any significant improvements to be had from an aftermarket rack in terms of steering feel and reliability? Scooter Hutchinson Norman, OK

A

When compared to a stock rack, an aftermarket steering rack offers improved firmness and steering response due to the quick ratio. Some GTs and other models with the “handling package” were built with a quick ratio steering rack. If you’re looking for a better feel and driving experience, I recommend the aftermarket steering rack. 94 FOXMustangMagazine.com


GAS-SAVING GT

Q

You can mark me down as a Fox Mustang guy for life. I grew up in them, had an ’86 coupe in high school, and own four right now. They look great, are easy to work on, and their performance is truly legendary. So this question might seem odd. I drive my cars daily, including a long commute, and am wondering if you might have some tips for squeezing out more mpg from my $4-a-gallon fill-ups? I know about keeping my tires inflated, fresh tune-up, and all that, but I’m talking about Mustang-specific stuff like fuelinjection setup, injectors, computer tweaks, better oils, that kind of thing. In fact, I’d like to see a build-up of a Mustang hyper-miler. What do you think? Michael Musigliano Paterson, NJ

FIVE-LUG STUD

Q

What’s involved in changing from four-lug to five-lug wheels? I’m sure the four-lugs are up to snuff for safety, but I like the look of five-lugs and have some older five-lug wheels that I’d like to run. How big a hassle is the changeover? Dale Rosatillo Riverside, CA

A

Converting to a five-lug setup is fairly simple, but selecting parts is the key to success. There are various methods to use when gathering all of the necessary parts needed for this conversion. The cheaper way is to search local

junkyards for parts off of other Ford vehicles such as Rangers, Broncos, Aerostars, and Lincoln Mark VIIs. While this method could save you money, you run the risk of having to do the job twice and replace those used parts with new parts later. The other, more expensive, route is to purchase a kit that is comprised of all necessary pieces and components to convert the front and rear to five-lug. This will eliminate unnecessary trips to the parts store or back to the junkyard to hunt down missing pieces. These kits typically run in the $1,300 to $1,400 range and for the most part can be completed in a day with garage tools.

A

This topic has baffled many enthusiasts and mechanics for years. The first upgrade to consider is the type of oil you are using. Switching to synthetic oil will reduce friction among the engine’s internal parts and allow them to work more efficiently. Verify that the correct-size injectors are installed and the spark plugs are within the correct heat range needed for your motor. Once the correct components are installed, having your Mustang tuned could unlock a few extra miles per gallon.

HUNTING FOR A SMOOTH IDLE

Q

You’ve probably heard this question a lot, but what can I do about my surging idle? I’m driving an ’88 5.0 hatchback. The idle goes up and down and just won’t settle down to a smooth 700-800 rpm. It has an Airaid cone filter, intake tube, JBA shorty headers,

and Flowmaster mufflers. Glenn Faltermeyer Manhattan, KS

A

Here are a few ideas on where to start the troubleshooting process: Your airflow meter may be monitoring inconsistent airflow, causing the

surging idle. Check or clean your air filter, Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), and throttle body. Clean the throttle body to remove any carbon buildup left on the blade or housing. If this doesn’t change anything, look for a vacuum leak, checking any hoses routing to and from the engine to ensure no leaks are present.

Issue 3 FOX Mustang Magazine 95


Q & A

>>>>

RADIO ACTIVE

Q

I have a ’93 GT convertible that came with the AM/FM-cassette which no longer works. I got a top-of-the-line ’93 AM/FM/cassette/CD at a swap meet, but now I find that it’s not just a swap-out, swap-in replacement. There’s some kind of other amp of some other component I

A

Without having the car here to inspect which pieces are present and which are not, it’s difficult to gather a parts list of needed items. My suggestion is to compare wiring diagrams for each

need. I know I could go with a Sony Xplode or that type of system, but I’m hoping to stay with a stock Ford system. Do you know what I will need to do a factory conversion to the OEM CD radio? Andre Gosvignias Philadelphia, PA radio to see which components are included in each version of radio. A good source for diagrams or people with previous experience in this department would be The Mustang Source and Stangnet.com.

CLUNK GOES THE FRONT END

Q

I’ve parked my ’89 GT convertible because of a severe clunk when I apply the brakes. It doesn’t happen all the time, but when it does, it sounds like the car is coming apart, and you can feel it through the whole car. I’ve had cars that made lots of different noises due to broken motor mounts, worn-out wheel bearings, and loose steering. But I’ve never heard a car make this heavy a sound. Any ideas? Colton Clark St. Louis, MO

A

From your description, you made the right choice in parking your Mustang. Front-end noises are not to be taken lightly and should be addressed before a serious incident occurs. Since this noise is apparent only during braking, I would check the brake system first. Look for broken caliper bolts, cracked rotors, or seized calipers. If the braking system seems up to par, I suggest a full safety inspection of the suspension. Anything from a broken sway bar link to failed strut/shock could cause uncharacteristic noises throughout your Mustang. FMM 96 FOXMustangMagazine.com

Scott Hoag, owner of MRT, is a graduate engineer who worked at Ford for 17 years. As program manager at Team Mustang, he was responsible for the ’01 Bullitt and ’03-’04 Mach 1. MRT is approaching its 10-year anniversary and continues to develop new and exciting products for the Mustang lineup.


Issue 2 Fox Mustang Magazine 97





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