Summer 2014
Wood You‌? Display Until September 1
GranCabrio MC Maserati celebrating 100 years of Italian excellence.
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SUMMER 2014 The 1st and only Men’s Fashion & Lifestyle Magazine featuring exclusively Made in Italy. Cover: Simone Riccioni Editor in Chief Francesco Di Maio
Culture & Travel Editor Business Development Dafne Perticarini
PR & Communications Federica Fatale
Photo Credits Paolo Puopolo (cover, pp. 11-15) Maserati (pp. 2-3) FIAT (pp. 4-5) Enzo Cossu (pp. 8, 9, 79) Saverio Tribuzio (p. 48) Francesco Prandoni (p. 50) Marcello Saba (pp. 68-71) lugori.com (pp. 73, 74) Panificio Bulloni (p. 78) Port Conte Park Photo Archives (pp. 80-81) Francesca Fiori (pp. 84-87)
OTHER CREDITS Makeup: Anna Marchese (cover, pp. 11-15) Stylist: Valentina Cammarota (cover, pp. 11-15)
Graphic Design Cecilia Giménez de Paz design@gimenezdepaz.com
Contact Info info@uomo-moderno.com Website: uomo-moderno.com
Uomo Moderno is a quarterly publication of Men’s Fashion by Francesco. © 2014, All Rights Reserved ISSN 2329-9258
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Uomo Moderno Winter 2014
rumjungle
Incorporated on July 11, 1899, F.I.A.T. stood for Fabbrica Italiana di Automobili Torino, with Giovanni Agnelli becoming Managing Director in 1902. FIAT Punto Sport
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what’s inside
Contents
WOODEN ACCESSORIES
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Embawo From Carpenter to Model and Designer
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WeWood A Tree Planted for Every Watch
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Wood Papillon The Wooden Bowtie
sports
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Vittorio Brumotti When Ordinary Is For Others
10 Cover Story Simone Riccioni From Athlete to Movie Star
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Masvas What is Fortune?
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travel
72
Sardinia A Treasure Chest of Ancient History
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Porto Conte A Coastal Paradise
Fashion
ACCESSORIES
dĂŠcor
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Lvchino by Luca Bellei Leaping with Faith
64
Happiness Shades A Journey, Not a Destination
88
32
66
90
ETHNIC FASHION
92
L.B.M. 1911 From Mantua with Love
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Department Five When Dreams Come True
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Pence Revived by Dora Zecchin
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Esemplare Setting the Example
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Navigare Relaxing in Amalfi
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Blum Feel the Future
60
Peter Non The Number Eight
68
Bagella The Ethnic Suit
Dining Rooms Porada Arredi
Furniture The Ecodesign Collection by Lessmore
Sofas Arketipo Firenze
94
Kitchens Abimis by Prisma
FASHION ARCHEOLOGY
82
Nuraghi Rocking Around the Island
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Angela Demontis The People of Bronze
96
Walls Giardini Wallcoverings
music
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Giovanni Allevi A New Look for a New Score?
Andrea Cammarosano Defend. Conserve. Pray.
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Benvenuti! As I put the final touches to this edition, I think back to when the idea came to life just one year ago—first as a website, then a digital edition, and finally a full-fledged glossy magazine. With much hard work I pursued my dream and now, four seasons later, I ask: “Wood you…?” While I have been chasing my dream, so too my fellow Italians have been following after theirs—and many in wood! Most people associate Italy with materials like marble, ceramics, coral, and glass—not wood; but woodworking has been a thriving art and industry on the peninsula for thousands of years. Without wood, the Romans would not have mastered their techniques in construction, such as the arch. Nor would they or the successive maritime republics have dominated the seas and traded with far off lands in the absence of wood. Can you imagine a Pizza Margherita baking next to charcoal in a brick oven?! Nevertheless, wood is not a cheap commodity in Italy but rather a precious luxury. For this reason it is sported proudly when fashioned into a handbag, watch, or bowtie. Although Italy imports up to 80% of its wood, forests occupy 34% of the national territory, boasting 10 million hectares or 24.7 million acres. This vast abundance of woodlands has led to a new kind of tourism on the boot called selvitourism, which offers fun activities like trekking and Nordic walking, rock and tree climbing, mountain biking, paragliding, and more. So why not join me on this exploration as we journey from the haunt of Sherwood-like forests to pristine beaches in Sardinia where luscious pine groves caress the sparkling blue sea?! And remember: dreaming is good, but at a certain point you should reach out and grab hold of those dreams. Wood you? Francesco Di Maio 8
Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
Welcome to the
summer 2014 Edition of Uomo Moderno
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simone riccioni
Feature Story
Simone Riccioni From Athlete to
Movie Star
Father: anesthetist. Mother: math instructor. Family: on a mission of humanitarian aid with the AVSI Foundation. Simone Riccioni was born 1988 in Hoima, Uganda, settling in Italy at the age of ten. Now the twenty-six year old has already been acting for eleven years and co-owns a line of jewelry with his fiancĂŠe Valentina Cammarota, the Miss Curves finalist of the 2011 Miss Italia pageant.
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Do you recall much of your childhood in Uganda? I remember so many things: the vast expanses of green, the extremely bright colors, the friends left behind, the very hot weather…. But the most impressionable memory is the smell of red earth soaked by the rain.
When did you fall in love with acting? I owe my passion for acting to a professor who challenged me to try out my vocal abilities. I first went on stage at the age of 15 in the musical The Lion King. My love for this art form has shaped me since then, and I grow more passionate about it by the day.
Why did you give up sports? Sports were my very first passion. I did judo, swimming, track and field, and basketball—my greatest love. It was a very hard choice; but when we arrive at a crossroad, we have to choose what we love, as well as what life has in store. Being only 6 feet tall (1.83m) caused me to give priority to acting, which then become my life passion!
Was it a transition or a complete break? I continued to play basketball as long as it worked out; however, the more I went on, the more I was sure that my career path was not in basketball but rather acting. So I decreased basketball practices and increased acting workshops. Meanwhile, I played my first role in a movie— La Festa by Simone Scafidi—which solidified my ideas.
Do you still enjoy sports? As for basketball, I’m a big fan of the Los Angeles Lakers; but I also root for my national basketball and soccer teams—I watch all the games.
How did you and Valentina meet? We met by chance a year and a half ago at Termini Station in Rome. I was returning from the set Universitari – Molto Più Che Amici, in which I played Carlo, and she was returning from her university. It was love at first sight!
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simone riccioni
Feature Story
How did your relationship inspire the line of jewelry? Our union is something magical. We thought, “Why not bring a little magic and fortune to everyone else?” So, we decided together to create a small object that could give life to this all. What better than a ring?!
Have you given one to Valentina? Actually, not yet, because she is designing it herself! It will be a Masvas ring with a stupendous stone.
How much do you follow fashion? I follow it pretty much; I prefer a sharp look but also classic. I really like Marc Jacobs, as well as Trussardi, Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana.
What “must have” do you carry at all times? Headphones for listening to music.
A favorite song in your mp3…. Always by Bon Jovi.
A trip with Valentina? I would love to go to New York and New Zealand.
How about your favorite food?
Finally, a flagship store in New York or a role in Hollywood? Why close either door?! A good Hollywood director and the owner of a jewelry store in New York can both read the magazine!
Macaroni.
Cult movie? The Green Mile.
Facebook or Twitter? Facebook! I don’t know how to use Twitter!
If you could co-star with any actor…. Johnny Depp and Julia Roberts.
How about a co-director? There are so many, so I’ll say Gabriele Muccino. The Pursuit of Happiness with Will Smith is one of my favorite movies!
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Masvas
What is Fortune?
MAssimo. Silvia. VAlentina. Simone. Four young Italians pondered this question until they found the answer in a lucky charm—a silver horseshoe, which comes in five unisex models with four assorted finishes. Masvas. 100% Made in Italy. Fortune is in your hands.
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masvas
Feature Story
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Embawo by
From
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Norbert Oettl
Carpenter to Model and Designer
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embawo by norbert oettl
Wooden Accessories
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embawo by norbert oettl
“I was born in Merano [South Tyrol] and grew up in a nearby valley. Prior to being a designer, I was a wood craftsman. Wood, forests, and mountains have been my passion since childhood. Fashion has always been my other passion. “My family did not have great means but definitely a great work ethic, so as a child I just wanted to learn a trade to ‘lend a hand’. I went to school and apprenticed to become a carpenter. But I didn’t want to just make furniture; I sensed that wood is a fascinating living material—a source of inspiration to those who love shapes and design, like me. “I wanted this beautiful material to be worn, carried about, and proudly displayed. It’s a shame to leave it locked up at home, so I decided to make it lightweight and wearable. I wanted to create unique pieces that are difficult to replicate in style and class: the combination of wood and leather to create fashion and travel accessories was enlightening—precious materials and simple pieces to wear with class. “The thing that gives me a lot of satisfaction now is the surprise that my creations evoke. Walking around with my travel trolley and seeing people turn to look or chase me
Wooden Accessories
to touch it, assuring them that it really is wood—this is the ‘wow’ factor! Fantastico! “One day I happened to be speaking about my business project with a friend who works with the International Organization for Migration and had just returned from a mission in Uganda. She told me that, in their language, they say embawo for ‘wood’. I immediately liked the soft and light sound, because wood becomes a flexible lightweight bag in my hands. “Wood-based products are appreciated for their lower environmental impact than other synthetic materials; but real sustainability towards the environment depends on the sustainable management of forests. In fact, Embawo uses only certified wood. This means that forests of origin are managed sustainably, maintaining a balance between timber and forest growth: cut trees are replaced and the habitat is protected. “In addition, I treat the wood only with organic vegetable oil and not lacquer. Upon purchase I give the client a certificate of authenticity, in which I advise the same maintenance. Also, the leather that I use is genuine Italian leather and, for those who request, there is the option of eco-leather.” Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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WeWood
A Tree Planted for Every Watch
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WeWood is the Florentine brainchild of Alessandro Rosano, who weds sustainability and style into nontoxic, biodegradable watches that are fashioned from recycled wood like African Blackwood, Indian Rosewood, Maple, Tasmanian Blackwood, Verawood, and Walnut. In an attempt to restore Mother Nature, WeWood partners with American Forests and Trees for the Future by planting a new tree for every watch that is sold.
wewood
Wooden Accessories
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wood papillon
Wooden Accessories
Wood Papillon The Wooden Bowtie The newest collection by Vinyluse, founded 2007 by Francesco Ioppolo, is Wood Papillon. Handmade from recycled wood, each bowtie is carved from a precious piece of wood that has been discarded by an artisanal carpenter.
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Vittorio Brumotti When Ordinary Is For Others
What scales the steep slopes
of a rocky precipice, sails along the railing over a sheer drop, and darts up the stairwell of the world’s tallest building? None other than Liguria’s trial biker Vittorio Brumotti, holder of nine records recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records. 24
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vittorio brumotti
sports
How He Got His Start
On Fear
“I made a personal and precise decision at the age of 11. When I asked for an acrobatic bike, my parents satisfied my request. It was love from the start. At the age of 14, I opened a tax number in my mother’s name and got a cell phone so that I could call companies to sponsor me. My father Claudio became my trusted mechanic.”
“I’m not afraid. This is the concept behind 100% Brumotti: all the work that I have done before makes me calm when I face a challenge. I know that I have given my best. Even though a moment of weakness may occur, the thought must be driven away. This is the spirit of a warrior: you must go forward. Naturally in all things a good dose of luck is needed.”
Keys to His Success “I am a person who lives by self-denial and sacrifice. I realized early on that character is formed by bad experiences; so in a certain sense I went looking for them: physical fatigue, not going out Saturday night for a drink, focusing on my plans…. Sacrifices not only help get what you want to achieve, but they also make you grow as they increase your mental capacity. It’s also true that adrenaline becomes a way of life. I live with my foot on the gas. Whether parachuting or another similar experience, I always give it my all.”
On Faith “I am a strong believer. I have also paid a visit to the pope and I use prayer to concentrate. But I am also connected to Buddhist teachings, which I rely on when I meet people and socialize.”
His Greatest Achievement “Climbing up the Burj Khalifa in Dubai: 4,000 steps in 2 hours and 20 minutes.”
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Gearing Up For an Event
On 100% Brumotti
“Music charges me, but in no way am I the meditation type before a challenge. I’m always busy doing something right up to the last minute. If you don’t take things too seriously, they are easily conquered.”
“It is a way of life and also the way I judge others: if someone who loses against me gave 100%, he or she for me is 100%. It does not just pertain to my work.”
The First Person He Calls After an Event
On the Present
On His Fans
“More than peaks, I have embarked on a new challenge: doing stunts with a normal racing bike, like those seen in the Tour de France. I have been invited all over the world to do shows and exhibit this new approach.”
“The closest people follow me and we are always connected.”
On the Future
“My father Claudio, of course.”
His Look “My outfit has to match my bike. There are some people who match their bags to their belts. I have to match my shoes to the tires. It is an important part of my personality, so I take it into account in defining my style.”
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“I am working on a film to demonstrate just what I can do with these normal bicycles. For me, it is a new beginning in my twenty-year career.” Interview by Dafne Perticarini
vittorio brumotti
sports
A Final Word to Young People “Grab life, because I don’t give up (laughing heartily). If a young person has the good fortune to achieve my success, he or she should realize that it can help others by giving them work. So always remember that you have a responsibility to those who are counting on you.”
Did You
Know?
Famous for its Italian Riviera, Liguria is as one of the largest forested regions in Italy, amounting to 69% of the territory, with 11% protected areas. But few bronzed bathers ever make the trek from the golden sands to the wooded entroterra and, thus, miss out on the best of Liguria’s surf AND turf.
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Lvchino by Luca Bellei
Leaping with Faith “I was born in 1983 into a loving family of Sassuolo; but I grew up in Rubiera, a small village in the province of Reggio Emilia. My childhood was simple and tranquil…. Surely the harmony that surrounded me in those wonderful years brought forth my creativity in its many facets, from design to handicrafts and onto music—my greatest passion in life!
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lvchino by luca bellei
fashion
“I think my propensity for design started right when I was a child. I remember becoming lost in drawing everything that was part of my life and imagination. I used to spend entire afternoons studying shapes, colors, and proportions. “I studied architecture when I grew up, but designing houses didn’t do it for me. Actually, I have never officially studied tailoring. The whole process that led me here was the result of much investigation, personal study, immense passion, and—above all—the desire to give shape to my feelings and my creative sensibilities.
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“I began by producing blazers, the most classic piece of a man’s wardrobe but reinterpreted in my own way. The man who wears Lvchino voluntarily chooses to wear a jacket at all times and not merely to work. He always wears it for an elegant twist, even in casual occasions but without taking himself too seriously. “The Lvchino-type-of man is certainly informed, educated, and tired of classicism but not willing to give up elegance! He is a lover of fashion, a gentleman with the class of Fred Astaire and the spunk of Daft Punk! “I don’t like following trends of the moment. I would like to offer something new. I am greatly inspired by 20th-century paintings. I love Duchamp and his conceptual painting, while the entire artistic movement of that period is so free, searching for something new and eager to break away from norms, independent…. 30
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lvchino by luca bellei
fashion
“The choice of Rajastan owes to a trip that I took last summer. I think India is a real storm of the senses that overwhelm you, shake you, find you unprepared, and surprise you. When you leave, you are definitely not the same as before! “The blue of the Blue City by [photographer] McCurry is blinding, magnificent, rich, flamboyant—unforgettable. That’s why I decided to visit the places that have given birth to those shots, and I incorporated the color into the collection right onto the shirt jacket! “Clearly this adventure, like the start of every adventure, was born out of a leap of faith…but I believe that leaps of faith are to be made. You can create better leaping than standing with your feet planted on the ground.” Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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L.B.M. 1911
From Mantua with Love
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l.b.m. 1911
fashion
Lubiam, an acronym for
Luigi Bianchi Mantova,
has been producing stylish high-quality menswear for over 100 years in Lombardy’s city of Mantua, spawning two sophisticated labels: the tailored line of Luigi Bianchi Mantova and the more casual line, L.B.M. 1911.
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This season L.B.M. 1911 reinvents iconic slim-fit blazers with floral and geometric motifs, oversize plaids, micro checks, and vibrant hounds tooth designs. New slim-fit pants in saturated hues of lilac, green, blue, and brown compliment the collection with sartorial charm.
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l.b.m. 1911
fashion
Did You
Know? Giuseppe Verdi’s opera Rigoletto is set in Mantua. In Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, Romeo is sent in exile to this city; while the schoolmaster in Taming of the Shrew hails from Mantua—a cultural, artistic, and musical hub of Northern Italy.
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When Dreams Come True
Department Five
department five
fashion
Under a banner of gold, black, and red, Space Number Five was one of the first stores in Italy to break the mold of the classic “boutique,” opening its doors in 1977, in the Adriatic town of Milano Marittima. Two associates, Mario Cangini and Nicola Silvagni, depart for Paris, London, and New York, only to return stunned and intoxicated by the beauty of their acquisitions for their new multi-brand store. Thirty years pass before Nicola’s dream comes true— an eclectic mix of streetwear, military, sportswear, and Italian culture with a nod to the urban styles of Berlin and New York. In honor of Space Number Five, Department Five debuted in 2007 with a military and sports inspired spring collection of historic pieces. This season spins an ironic twist with a fun hint of Texas.
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department five
fashion
Did You
Know?
All up and down the coast of Italy, you will find signs that read “Pineta” (‘pine forest’). These belts of green act as a buffer between beach and town and provide shade in the heat of summer. The pine grove of Milano Marittima is Pineta Cervia, which offers canoeing, archery, golf, and tennis.
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Pence
Revived by Dora Zecchin
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pence
fashion
“Pence was founded in 1979 by my father, Othello Zecchin, who at the time had a company in the province of Padua. In the early 90s, he decided to close up shop and take on a different path of consulting for other brands.
“After several years of work in the family business and a life spent amidst the fabrics, in 2010 I decided to dust off the family brand, which I remember fondly even though at the time I was a little girl. For this reason I decided to add ‘revived’ to the label Pence, because it is actually a rebirth and reinterpretation of what existed since 1979. I am proud to let everyone know that it was my father, who invented the brand. Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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“The history of the name is disarmingly simple. My father told me how he was at the table with his associate, talking precisely about this new project. They had just returned from London where they used to go often for research and, exactly at that moment, he pulled a five pence coin out of his pants pocket—here’s where it all began!
“The man who wears Pence is fashion conscious, but I would not define him as a fashion victim. Our clothes are always sober but unique in detailing. For this reason, I like to think that they can be worn by an architect, an entrepreneur, or any businessman who in the morning chooses a simple but sophisticated look for work.
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pence
fashion
“I indulge a bit more in the denim line and when I think about whom I would like to dress, I envision a rock star!�
Just south of Padua lie the Euganean
Did You
Know?
Hills, which have been long celebrated for their picturesque gardens and parks, thermal spas, and lush woods of oak and chestnut trees—all providing the visitor with natural sightseeing activities, such as hiking, mountain biking, golf, and horseback riding. Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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Esemplare S e tting t h e E x ampl e
“The name of a brand enters people’s vocabulary and becomes part of everyday life, actually becoming a new word. Often, invented names are the strongest and most memorable. The more it is used, the more the name becomes familiar: its story is already written and cannot be rebuilt. Precisely for this, we have chosen a name that does not remind us of existing people or places but lends itself to many different interpretations. In this way it is possible to build a new story around it, waiting to be discovered. In short, a story that is ‘exemplary’— esemplare. “Esemplare was born from the desire to travel down a new street in the field of clothing and is dedicated to those who walk through the streets of every day, either with their mind or on their own feet, but in total freedom. And it is this sense of freedom that inspired the collection: whoever wears an Esemplare garment does so with absolute ease, considering it part of their identity— almost to the point of forgetting about it. Each garment, therefore, is different because it soaks in the personality of its owner, transforming over and over into something new and carrying within it a constantly evolving message.
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“For spring/summer 2014 Esemplare presents a very complete collection composed of diverse types of items: knitwear, jackets, pants, shirts, t-shirts, polo shirts, and sweatshirts. It is a very eclectic collection that brings together different trends and styles, but highly coordinated. “Manifattura Riese was established in 1961, while the brand Esemplare was born in 2009 for ages starting at 25 or 30 to 55.”
esemplare
fashion
100% cotton V-neck sweater and Bermuda cargo shorts.
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Reversible down jacket; Henley knit shirt; 100% cotton, slim fit and low waist chinos with 3D folds on bottom and back of knee.
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esemplare
fashion
Reversible down jacket, crotch knit jacket, and slim fit pants with side pockets.
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Giovanni Allevi A New Look f o r a N e w S c o r e ?
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giovanni allevi
music
A cascade of curly black hair, Converse sneakers, and dark frame glasses. From the ancient arena of Verona to Carnegie Hall in New York, this composer, conductor, and pianist is creating a new contemporary sound in classical music. Meet Giovanni Allevi, Italy’s coup de théâtre!
How were you exposed to classical music? My father was a clarinet instructor; my mother was an opera singer. So we didn’t listen to anything but classical music, especially symphonies or operas by Puccini and Verdi. The only pop records that entered our house were a single by Abba and Saturday Night Fever by the Bee Gees.
What in particular attracted you? My true passion was born out of a prohibition: in a corner of the living room stood a shining upright piano, which was locked, so I could not touch it at all. I used to listen to my older sister play it with my ear glued to the door until, one day, I found the hidden key and opened it. Thus began my secret meetings, with the fear of being found out but intoxicated by those prohibited sounds.
Why the prohibition? Years later I realized that my parents had preferred an alternative route for me other than music, one more secure.
How did you fit in as a child? I was an outcast. But today I think that only those who are on the sidelines and do not comply with the masses are able to show the path to many others.
What prompted you to go to conservatory? I was twenty-eight years old when I lost my job as a teacher at the middle school and the school of music in Ascoli. I found myself with nothing, without a future. So I decided to buy a one-way ticket to Milan with the excuse of finishing my studies in composition at the conservatory. Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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Is it true you ate pasta with tuna for a whole You have popularized classical music among year? the youth. What’s the key? The first years were very difficult: I got a job as a waiter in a catering company and I could barely pay the apartment rent with what I was earning. So as I was busy with my studies and composing, I didn’t have time to eat and found that it was very convenient to pour a can of tuna on cooked macaroni just to have a delicious dish.
Have the hard times ever made you want to stop? Since my life and music are one, I certainly could not stop being myself.
How is it that music is your capricious witch? I don’t sleep at night to pursue it. It’s like a beautiful witch who seduces me and leaves me, asking for absolute dedication. She manifests herself only when she wants, giving me pieces of symphonies, which I can complete only without succumbing to compromise. 50
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Writing new music.
Do you think your look has played a role? It is likely, but I don’t think it’s enough to win young people’s hearts. You have to be a rebel and follow your dreams without any compromise to arouse their attention and remove the initial distrust. Then, never pontificate. It’s not you who brings the world to them—they are the world!
How did the public first react to your look? To me the public seemed upset at first, as if I had changed the liturgy of the concert in too many ways. But beyond the unorthodox look, the element of rupture was that I played my own music and not that of others. Anyway my look, which is the absence of a look, was not by chance: I can feel the piano pedals better with my sneakers, while the black stretch jersey was made for me by a group of researchers from a company in Treviso.
giovanni allevi
music
How do you spend your free time? I read mostly authors who, in their own way, write about the rebellious spirit: Bukowsky, Haruki Murakami, Coelho, and books by Raffaele Morelli. They are authors who manage to say new things to everyone, inciting the ire of the cultural elite and—for that alone—I’m thrilled. Then, I love to go shopping, stand in line at the post office, and cook simple things.
The last CD you purchased…. Biophilia by Björk.
Finally, what is in store for 2014? My piano tour, which kicked off in Italy and Japan. With great enthusiasm I look forward to the remaining concerts in South America, thanks to the affection of the public. Interview by Federica Fatale
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Navigare Relaxing in Amalfi
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navigare
fashion
This summer Navigare embarks on a breathtaking voyage to the terraced slopes of the Amalfi Coast, navigating the precipitous cliffs and hairpin turns amidst whitewashed villas and lemon groves of yellow that flow into a seductive ravine. Flapping in the wind like flames of white, sailboats whisk along the deep blue horizon where the sparkling sea and infinite sky embrace as golden sands kiss the shore, which ascends to the shimmering splendor of a maiolica dome. Enchanted and inspired by the sea, Navigare is the historic brand of Manifattura Riese, which was founded 1961 in Reggio Emilia. Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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navigare
fashion
Did You
Know?
Centuries ago, the forests of the Amalfi Coast supplied the essential wood to the shipbuilding industry of its maritime republic (7th-12th centuries). But even to this day, there exists among the villages and towns a scenic network of connecting footpaths. The most stunning is the “Path of the Gods,� which traverses ancient vineyards, groves, and forests with breathtaking views of the rugged coast. Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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Blum Feel the Future
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blum
As an acronym for Benelli LUciano Maglieria, Blum was conceived in 2009 out of the innovative craftsmanship of Bologna’s Benelli knitwear factory, which was originally founded by Luciano over fifty years ago.
fashion
Symbolizing a return to original values, Blum envisions the future for the discerning yet unconventional man who regards knitwear as a timeless piece of sophisticated artwork. Taking the best of the past, Blum fully understands the present so that we can feel the future. Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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Did You
Know?
Travelling south from Bologna to Florence, you can explore one of Europe’s most ancient forests, which extends across the TuscanRomagna Apennine mountains. This Harry Potter-esque enchanted woodlands is the Casentinesi Forest National Park, which offers spectacular hikes through magnificent arboreal specimens, such as age-old beech trees and firs.
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blum
fashion
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Defend. Conserve. Pray.
Andrea Cammarosano
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andrea cammarosano
fashion
Contrary to mass production , which this designer deems as void of passion and feeding off the multitudes, fashion—a viewpoint of the privileged—is a spiritual labor of love, wrought by the hands of skillful artisans. Like the symbolism of the humble classes in the works of Pier Paolo Pasolini, Andrea Cammarosano creates an allegory of human value through the simple aesthetics of workwear, which, protecting the body and allowing for movement, transcends the arbitrariness of fashion and assumes a social function and symbolic meaning. Inspired by magnolias and their plastic counterparts that are used in human rituals for remembrance—perfect in purity yet destined to wither—this collection emerges as a single, integrated modular outfit, which can be achieved only through meditative work.
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Did You
Know?
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Born 1922 in Bologna of Friuli origins, Pier Paolo Pasolini was a highly controversial director, screenwriter, playwright, poet, and linguist, who was violently murdered in 1975. Creator of picaresque neorealism—the sad yet satirical side of reality—Pasolini used shocking imagery to expose the changing values of modern society. Uomo Moderno Summer 2014
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Happiness Shades A Journey, Not a Destination
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happiness shades
Accessories
Light, fun, and cheeful—Happiness Shades are a unisex collection of eyewear by Optimistic, which was launched by Alex Montanaro and Andrea Bratti in 2012. Maybe you don’t believe in happiness, just vintage grunge and old time rock and roll. Then this line of multicolor shades is bound to make a believer out of you! Embark on the journey of Happiness Shades, where seeing is believing.
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Peter Non The Number Eight
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peter non
Accessories
This summer Peter Non is replete with symbolism of the number eight: 8 as the atomic number of oxygen, ∞ as infinity, 8 roads that lead to illumination, 8 minutes for sunlight to reach the earth, 8 immortals that defeat the Dragon King, and 8 manifestations of nature. Carved and breathable materials, endlessly repeating patterns, fabrics reduced to lines and reassembled, printed leather with irregular patterns, incomplete finishes of de-saturated colors, straw that gives the idea of pigment in natural elements‌. Mounted by hand on an anatomic insole of cork and rubber, the Peter Non collection presents four new unisex models.
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Bagella The Ethnic Suit
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bagella
Ethnic Fashion
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bagella
Ethnic Fashion
Traditional Sardinian dress
is a kaleidoscope of successive cultures that dominated the island over the millennia, shaping with it the music, dance, arts and crafts, cuisine, and traditions of the islanders.
Still worn by some today, the ethnic suit emerged in the 17th and 18th centuries when special laws connecting certain garments to social class were abolished, giving entrance to new fabrics from Catalonia (Spain) and other Mediterranean influences. Typically the color palette comprises dark brown, black, green, prune, and grey; while fabrics consist of corduroy and moleskin. Jackets are single-breasted with two or three buttons, four appliqued pockets, and a half belt in the back. Shirts are white and made of cotton or linen with a small collar, sometimes with pleating in the front. Formerly riding pants, trousers tend to narrow at the bottom so that they may be tucked into leather boots. A beret tops off the entire look. Located in Sassari, Bagella is a buttega istorica de Sardegna par excellence, having specialized in the ethnic suit since 1932.
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Sardinia A Treasure Chest of Ancient History
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sardinia
Travel
Inhabited since the Stone Age, Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean, deriving its name from Sardus—a son of the mythical Hercules. One of the most sophisticated civilizations of antiquity was the Nuraghic people, who dwelt in beehive-like villages from the 18th-15th centuries BC. The next wave of arrivals washed upon Sardinia’s shores circa 1000BC: forefathers of the Lebanese, the Phoenicians set up colonies along the coasts. Their cousins, the Carthaginians, invaded the island in 509BC but were ousted by the Romans nearly 300 years later. Rome’s domination lasted seven hundred years, until the island was literally vandalized!
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Nowhere to Run, Nowhere to Hide would have been an appropriate song, but this Eastern Germanic tribe had nothing to do with Martha and the Vandellas. Living all throughout Europe, the Vandals conquered North Africa as a launching point to raid the Mediterranean islands and coastlands. Fortunately the vandalism did not last long and Sardinia was liberated in the 6th century AD by the Byzantines, who spread Christianity to the island. The tranquility of Byzantium rule, however, was also short lived by the incursions of the Barbary pirates, known also as Corsairs and Saracens, who assailed the island in 710AD. For several centuries the Sardinians succeeded in defending themselves; but the island was soon thrown into turmoil in the 13th century upon the contentions of two maritime powers on the Italic Peninsula—the 74
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Republic of Genoa and the Republic of Pisa, the latter of which succeeded to colonize Sardinia. Eventually with the help of the pope, Sardinia fell to the House of Aragon in 1354, remaining a Catalan possession (and later Spanish) until it was handed over to Piedmont’s House of Savoy, which in 1861 established the Kingdom of Italy and crowned Vittorio Emanuele II the first king of Italy. Today, whether you indulge in eclectic culinary delights or archeological sites, you can explore this exotic treasure chest of ancient history on horseback or a shipwreck exploration, paragliding or windsurfing, scaling a rocky cliff, or simply in the comfort of an airconditioned FIAT. For more travel information, contact Lugori Sardinia at lugori.com.
sardinia
Travel
Originally from today’s Lebanon, the Phoenicians
Did You
Know?
were the world’s first networkers, settling Sardinia circa 1,000BC. In addition to the alphabet, the Phoenicians invented purple dye from sea snails—hence their name, which means ‘people of purple’.
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Originating in Catalonia of northeastern Spain, Catalan is one of Sardinia’s five local languages
Did You
Know?
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and enjoys co-official status in the city of Alghero. Conquered by the Crown of Aragon, the city was invaded in 1353 by Catalan settlers, who displaced the indigenous population and language.
sardinia
Did You
Know?
Travel
Sa Figu Morisca in Sardinian and fico d’India in Italian, the Indian fig opuntia is a cactus that originated in Mexico. Whether enjoyed as a tasty liqueur, jam, or fresh fruit, this fruit is rich in vitamin C.
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Sardinian
shepherd’s
bread—pan
carasau
(literally, ‘bread cooked to crispiness’)—dates
Did You
Know?
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back to the Nuraghic people of the 2nd millennium BC and is also known today as carta da musica, or ‘music sheets’. Try some from Panificio Bulloni with a creamy pecorino cheese and a dry, fullbody Monica wine—the queen of Sardinian reds.
sardinia / porto conte
Travel
Porto Conte A Coastal Paradise
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Described by Jacques Cousteau
as “one of the most beautiful corners of the Mediterranean,” the Regional Natural Park of Porto Conte is a coastal paradise of white sandy beaches caressed by crystal-clear waters and crowned by dense evergreens. Several miles north of Alghero, the park was born as an environmentalist project to preserve the complex ecosystem, all the while providing outdoor enjoyment to visitors through sailing, cycling, trekking, underwater cave diving, cavern exploration, kayaking, and bird watching. Places of interest include the wildlife oasis of the Demaniale Forest, the limestone promontory of Cape Caccia, the stalactite cave Neptune’s Grotto, the island of Foradada, and Sardinia’s only natural lake—Lago Baratz.
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porto conte
Travel
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Nuraghi
Rocking Around the Island
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nuraghi
Fashion Archeology
Four thousand years ago, Sardinian tribes dwelt in intricate networks of honeycomb structures that surrounded a truncated cone-shaped tower. Out of the original thirty thousand, seven thousand still stand today. Masters of architecture and engineering, the inhabitants of these “Nuraghi” were cast eternally in bronze: the bronzetti, bronze statuettes that reveal not only the life and times of these ancient people but also their impeccable sense of dress. In her book entitled Il Popolo di Bronzo (‘The People of Bronze’), Angela DeMontis describes to minute detail how Nuraghic men knew how to rock some styles—literally!
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The People of Bronze
Angela Demontis
angela demontis
Fashion Archeology
Sardinian.
Born into a family of artists, now living and working in Cagliari. Father: a cartoonist-painter. Mother: a ceramist-sculptor. From an early age Angela Demontis gleaned the technics of design, painting, and ceramics from her parents, who often accompanied her to the museum of archeology. Her romance with the bronzetti ignited upon their first encounter. These bronze statuettes of the Nuraghic people, who inhabited Sardinia four thousand years ago, were impeccably dressed! More advanced in fashion than their Mediterranean contemporaries, Nuraghic men sported trousers, jackets with sleeves and hoodies, gloves, handbags, and berets (the ancestor of the Sardinian beritta). “Menswear was simple and sober; however, one can note a touch of vanity, especially with the attention to detail like fringes and tassels. Belts and decorative scarves gave a certain tone of elegance to the dress. “Nuraghic men even cared about hairstyles, gathering their hair in two to four long braids or keeping it very short, almost shaved with decorative designs. Their styling was refined, fashionable, and rich in accessories—in this refinement I find a certain affinity with men’s fashion today. “They have really changed my life! Researching the materials, colors, and production techniques, I was able to reconstruct life-size costumes of 10 Nuraghic figures. The educational exhibition, which I named The People of Bronze, stems from the book of the same name that I published in 2005. For the past three years, we have made 25 stops between Sardinia and northern Italy with great success among the public and critics.
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people of bronze
Fashion Archeology
“The People of Bronze have granted me the privilege to be acquainted with my ancestors as I went through all the practical stages of production for the various garments, together with the valuable help of skilled craftsmen. “I personally cut and sewed by hand all the clothes and cloaks, applied the fringe one by one, and stitched hard leather to create the armor with ancient techniques. It was an exhausting but equally wonderful experience of experimental archeology that has certainly enriched my soul.”
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Porada Arredi The ability to transform a trunk of wood into a work of art stems only from a love affair with the wood itself. No one knows this better than Luigi Allievi, who has been designing chairs since 1948 and, together with his four children, founded Porada in 1968. Like these walnut chairs surrounding the dining table with a marble top and copper base, the timeless geometric forms of Porada will sweep you off your feet.
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dining rooms
DĂŠcor
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The Ecodesign Collection by Lessmore
Designed by Giorgio Caporaso
and produced by Lessmore in Varese, Lombardy, the Ecodesign Collection is an act of love towards the planet, consisting of unique, sustainable, recyclable chairs, tables, and bookshelves that are produced from corrugated cardboard—and all easy to assemble!
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furniture
DĂŠcor
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Arketipo Firenze Design is life, transgression of style, and the desire to express one’s own values through forms and materials that are anything but banal. Disorder within order, sofas with a double soul that seemingly float off the floor—Arketipo Firenze—Florentine designs, a sign of bespoke.
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sofas
DĂŠcor
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Abimis by Prisma Are you a refined domestic cook in need of a customized kitchen fit for a gourmet chef? Then why not celebrate 30 years of professional catering equipment with Prisma?! Literally ‘from the bottom’ in Latin, Abimis is designed by architect Alberto Torsello as a handcrafted stainless steel kitchen that allows for smooth and logical movement.
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kitchens
DĂŠcor
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Giardini Wallcoverings
Inspired by
tiled wainscoting of ornate Moorish architecture, the Sauvage collection evokes a savage impulse in us all with soft hues of beige and brown and splashes of color on a jacquard satin fabric for a shiny effect. Established in 2000, Giardini Wallcoverings is a new division of Giardini Ltd, founded in 1872.
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walls
DĂŠcor
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Uomo Moderno Winter 2014
100% Brumotti
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