Freesurf December 2023

THE AMERICAN

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Crosby Colapinto Photo Brent Bielmann

SINCE 1984

Don King // Tavarua 1985

Todd Glaser // Tavarua 2022

It is an honor to collaborate with the Vans team to create the 2023 Vans Pipe Masters artwork which connects surfing with its origins in Hawai‘i.

Through my work as a Native Hawaiian artist and sculptor, I began with the theme of an ocean goddess, Nāmakaokaha‘i, who is ever seeking her sister Pele, the volcano goddess. It is a story that connects our emotions with forces of nature, and specifically, the ferocious grace of the ocean as expressed in a wave. In the painting we see Nāmakaokaha‘i, both being and riding a wave, as she continues to shape the shores of our beloved islands of Hawai‘i.

—Solomon Enos

NORTH SHORE, HAWAI‘I december 8-20, 2023 vanspipemasters.com

©2023 Vans, Inc.

The accounts below are donating $1.00 for every “Mahalo Margarita” sold in 2023 to AccesSurf to support the disabled military veterans and teach them how to Surf. Cuervo Tradicional is matching those donations to AccesSurf.

OAHU 604 Alehouse Beachhouse by 604 El Ranchero Kapolei & Wahiawa Kuhio Avenue Food Hall Lay Low Mahi'ai Table (Foodland) Manifest Margarita's Mekiko Cantina Princess Kaiulani Hotel

Scratch Kitchen Suzie Wong's TJ's Sports Bar Waikiki Beach Marriott Westin Moana Surfrider Hotel BIG ISLAND Bianelli's Pizza Hilo Hawaiian Hotel Lava Shack Luquin's Mexican Pineapple's

MAUI Bobby V's Italian Restaurant Fleetwood's KAUAI Jimmy's Grill Living Foods Restaurant Milagro's

F R E E PA R K I N G I don't think there's any more beautiful lineup to photograph in the world than Pipeline. What we have here is late afternoon, backlit, crazy, offshore winds and one of the masters of Pipeline, Benji Brand. For a surfer, it's a picture made in heaven.

Photo Brian Bielmann

Editorial Editor / Publisher Mike Latronic

From dawn till’ it’s gone!

Photo Director Brian Bielmann Art Director John Weaver Editorial Assistants Rebecca Parsons, Lowell Burton Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 260-9219 Marketing Associate Andrea Crawley West Coast Distribution & Sales Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 Distribution & Advertising Inquiries (808) 260-9219 Staff Shooters Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver Contributing Writers Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Nicole Nason Contributing Photographers Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke, Mitch McEwen FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i and Southern California. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2022

IAN CRANE

T RV L R T R AV E R S E U P F S H I RT

F I N D T H E T R V L R T R AV E R S E U P F S H I R T AT T H E S E PA R T I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S 10 Free Parking 16 Cover Story 18 Editor's Note 20 News & Events 26 Music 28 Kai Sallas 32 Aperture 48 The American Wave 60 Jackson Dorian 68 Drew Brophy 80 Qualifiers 84 Menehune Surf Contest 88 Industry Notes 96 Stuff We like 98 Last Look

Griffin Colapinto Photo Brent Bielmann

original since 1962

COVER STORY

C RO S BY CO L L A P I N TO "I remember this particular day was a pretty solid pipe swell.

It had been a while since I had shot fisheye and decided to mix it up. Definitely took a few beatings but the shots I got made up for that and overall it was a really fun swim at pipe. Stoked to get this one of Crosby! " - Brent Bielmann

ED NOTE First and foremost, good tidings to all for the winter season and beyond!

Whether you are reading this paper in hand or digitally, we are proud to present an epic holiday mix of action, personality and the lifestyle we love.

Starting out small, literally, we present the perennial Haleiwa Menehune contest. The competitors may be small, but they are indeed fierce! It’s always good energy to see the youth frothing over something they love so much and it is so fun!

Balancing out the mini ripper report in baby waves, our Aperture section has some massive early winter moments with the first real swell at Jaws.

Also in this edition, Freesurf takes a snapshot of the current “American Wave.” The vibrant Southern California “2%” crew combined with surfers from Hawai'i have come on strong and San Clemente resident wordsmith Jake Howard delivers some insight.

It’s a who’s who of American surfing and by sheer numbers this new batch of names and faces are taking up some serious real estate on the WSL World Tour map.

Cole Houshman for one grew wings and snapped and crackled that powerful frame and surf style into a very convincing first place rating on the international WSL Challenger tour series. Jett Schilling, Kade Madson and the Cola Bros crew laid out inspired surfing as did several ladies and athletes from Hawai'i.

Another gifted San Clemente surf enthusiast featured is inspired surf artist, the determined and talented Drew Brophy. Brophy was an instrumental pioneer of surfboard art long before it was popular or paid well. As a youth, he used to rub shoulders with some of the top performers in the Eastern Surfing Conference but Brophy’s big win comes through his eyes and fingers with his art and an overwhelming drive to live and surf another day.

Following in the footsteps of father Shane, Jackson Dorian shows up in the limelight very fast and agile. Growing in stature, so is Jackson’s power game. With an understanding of the ocean far beyond his years, Dorian is on a course to be one of the top performers in the next generation.

With new faces and new names sprouting everywhere on the competitive scene, what remains is that same old love of gravity, inertia and surfing that helps keep us ALL stoked! Very soon we are on the eve of another new year. May your holidays be happy and wishing peace and goodwill to all for the new year!

Merrik Mochkatel Rocky Point Photo: Freesurf Hiper Model by Kerry Tokoro: 5’4” X 17.25” X 2.12” Ala Moana Center - Street Level 1, Ewa Wing & Level 3, Diamond Head Wing

www.hicsurf.com

NEWS & EVENTS

NORA LIOTTA AND SHION CRAWFORD WIN THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS PRESENT THE SUNSET PRO Nora Liotta (HAW) and Shion Crawford (HAW) claimed their maiden World Surf League (WSL) victories at The Hawaiian Islands Present the Sunset Pro, a Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui Qualifying Series (QS) 1,000, over formidable fields. Four-to-six foot waves provided moments of magic throughout Finals Day that witnessed Liotta and Crawford capitalize on opportunities, and hold their compusre under pressure. A runner-up performance from Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui No. 1 Keala Tomoda-Bannert (HAW) kept her atop the rankings as Mihimana Braye’s (FRA) Finals Day run garnered a runner-up finish and now places him as Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui No. 1.

A big conclusion to women’s competition awaited featuring Hawai'i/Tahiti No. 1 Keala Tomoda-Bannert (HAW), Challenger Series standout Eweleiula Wong (HAW), 2022 event runner-up Nora Liotta (HAW), and rising threat Haylee Boverman (HAW).

Liotta stole the opening exchange with a 7.50 (out of a possible 10) with Wong earning a 5.65 to stay within reach. But, Liotta’s 5.00 extended her lead ahead of the Final contingent as Tomoda-Bannert worked her way back into the heat to accrue an 11.50 (out of a possible 20) heat total heading into final minutes. But, Liotta held firm and earned her first-ever WSL victory to garner 1,000 valuable points.

really needed. It took a lot of training at home, working on my heat surfing, and one of my goals is to now qualify for the 2024 Challenger Series.”

Maui, Hawai'i’s, own Liotta started the day with an advancing position behind Tomoda-Bannert in their Semifinal bout to start their respective Finals Day surges. Liotta’s Quarterfinal victory on opening day helped kickstart her run atop the podium and now moves to No. 4 on the Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui rankings.

The men’s Final included some of the region’s 2023 standouts including reigning Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui No. 1 Jackson Bunch (HAW), recent Corona Saquarema Pro Challenger Series finalist Mihimana Braye (FRA), rising threat Shion Crawford (HAW), and fellow emerging talent Diego Ferri (HAW). A slow start to the bout then gave way to Crawford’s powerful forehand

“It feels so good and I love this wave,” said Liotta. “I feel really good taking my first win near home. I’ve had a really tough year. I competed in some Challenger Series events and I didn’t do too well so this is a really big confidence booster that I

Shion Crawford Heff / WSL

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T H E H AWA I I A N I S L A N D S P R E S E N T T H E S U N S E T P R O Eweleiula Wong Heff / WSL

Diego Ferri Heff / WSL

putting on a display for a 7.25. Braye wasn’t far behind, posting a 6.00 of his own before Crawford answered back with a 6.00 to push himself further into the lead, recreating a Saquarema Quarterfinal battle between the two. Braye was able to find a 6.60 heading into the final minutes, but Crawford maintained composure with priority and held his lead until the end, solidifying his maiden WSL win.

throughout the event. Crawford’s Finals Day surge began with a Round of 32 victory before posting some of the day’s best heat totals en route to the Final. Now, Crawford looks to maintain his position heading to his home break of Haleiwa beginning November 26 – December 7.

“It feels really good and I’m just super stoked, kind of speechless right now,” said Crawford. “Everything hasn’t really hit yet and it’s just now starting to sink in that I realy did win. Our bracket was pretty stacked and I just needed to do my surfing. I’m pretty confident right now and I believe I could win [Haleiwa] too, and I believe in myself so much now.”

Another impressive event for Tomoda-Bannert witnessed her overpower fellow contenders toward a third-straight Finals Day, her second Finals appearance of the 2023/2024 year. TomodaBannert nearly earned her second win of the season and fell just short to Liotta after besting the Maui competitor in their Semifinal, Heat 1 clash. Kauai’s own, Tomoda-Bannert, now sets her eyes on the U.S. Air Force Super Girl Surf Pro before heading back to Hawai'i to conclude the women’s season at The Hawaiian Islands HIC Haleiwa Pro.

The North Shore’s own, Crawford now moves to No. 2 on the Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui rankings after a flawless run through The Hawaiian Islands Present the Sunset Pro, not losing a single heat

Barron Mamiya Heff / WSL

Tomoda-Bannert and Braye Lead Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui Rankings Leaving Sunset Beach

T H E H AWA I I A N I S L A N D S P R E S E N T T H E S U N S E T P R O Womens Finalists Heff / WSL

Mens Finalists Heff / WSL

“I just don’t want to be satisfied with these results, and I’m hungry to get more wins,” said Tomoda-Bannert. “Heading into the Super Girl, I want to take the win there and I feel very mentally and physically ready for it. This year, I’m not looking to just qualify for the Challenger Series, I want to win the region and so far I feel like I’m doing a pretty good job of that but I want to keep it going.”

One of Tahiti’s prominent competitors, Braye, stormed through Finals Day on his march toward a runner-up finish. Braye earned the day’s highest heat total, a 14.95, in his Semifinal, Heat 2, battle with eventual fourth-place finisher Ferri, multiple event victor Billy Kemper (HAW), and Hawai'i/Tahiti standout Joshua Moniz (HAW). After a runner-up in Saquarema, Braye brought that confidence to Sunset Beach and now sits at No. 1 on the regional rankings. “this has been one of the best run’s of my life in competitive surfing so far after getting my best result in Brazil and it felt good carrying that same rhythm here,” said Braye. “Sunset is a tricky wave on your backhand and to be the only Tahitian here, and make the Final, I’m very stoked. I’m just trying to keep my momentum moving forward and I want to try and qualify for both the Olympics and the Championship Tour. I’m going to make it happen.”

For the women, the U.S. Air Force Super Girl Surf Pro gets underway in Jacksonville Beach, Florida, beginning November 10 – 12 before rejoining the men’s QS 2023/2024 season at The Hawaiian Islands HIC Haleiwa Pro beginning November 26 – December 7.

Women’s Final Results: 1 – Nora Liotta (HAW) 12.50 1,000 points 2 – Keala Tomoda-Bannert (HAW) 11.50 800 points 3 – Eweleiula Wong (HAW) 10.75 650 points 4 – Haylee Boverman (HAW) 6.85 600 points

Seth Moniz Heff / WSL

Men’s Final Results: 1 – Shion Crawford (HAW) 13.25 1,000 points 2 – Mihimana Braye (FRA) 12.60 800 points 3 – Jackson Bunch (HAW) 10.20 650 points 4 – Diego Ferri (HAW) 9.85 600 points

MUSIC VIBES

MASON HO Tupac - All Eyez On Me, 1996.

This album has lots of good songs that get me excited to go surf. Also it’s good to test your sound system with.

Bob Marley & The Wailers - Exodus, 1977.

I grew up listening to this. Mostly in my dads truck with my sister. On our way to school, to the grocery store, surfing, everywhere.

Now I need it.

Jimi Hendrix - Axis Bold as Love, 1971.

This album has most of my favorite Hendrix songs and it was recorded in Hawai'i. You can tell he was extra happy here in Hawai'i because he was ripping on this album extra hard.

Santana - Caravansera, 1972.

This album has an amazing rhythm and gets me excited to go surf or anything. My mom and dad love it and so do I.

Photo Brian Bielmann

H.R. - Charge, 1990.

This album gets me more excited to go surf then I can explain. It also gives me the best memories!

NEWS & EVENTS

Kai Sallas Brings Home World Title For Hawai'i

By Rebecca Parsons

Photo Mike Latronic

24 years after his rookie season, Kai Sallas is the 2023 WSL Longboard World Champion Kai Sallas has been a staple on the WSL Longboarding tour since his rookie season in 2011. Although he’s had several wins and top finishes over the years, a world title has always eluded him. Until now.

Born and raised in Honolulu, Hawai'i, Sallas spent his childhood on the beach in Waikiki. His dad worked as a Beach Boy and while he took tourists out surfing, young Sallas would mess around on the rental boards. When he was eighteen, Sallas qualified for the WSL longboarding tour.

After his first year on tour, Sallas had to withdraw because it was too challenging financially. Four years later, he was able to hop back on tour and has competed every year since.

are a few that he’s most proud of. In 2006, Sallas won the Puerto Escondido tube riding contest. In 2009, he won the ASP event at Posta Point, resulting in a second-place season finish, just shy of a world title. In 2018, the Hawaiian native cinched the win at the ISA world championships. Despite his impressive resume, Sallas had yet to win a world title.

“As I got older, I started to think that it was never going to happen,” says Sallas of winning a world title. “It was kind of a bummer because that was my goal in life and I came close so many times.”

Fast forward to 2023, and the stars and Sallas’ training aligned. Sallas had logged countless hours in the water, the tour included four world-class waves, and he had his boards dialed in, the combination of which led to a critical win at Malibu.

Twenty four years after he had made his debut on tour, Kai Sallas was going home to Hawai'i with a world title.

Over the years, Sallas has had a number of impressive performances, but there 28

“To finally win at the age of 42 was amazing and a big weight off my shoulders,” says Sallas. “I’m super proud to be from Hawai'i. To be a Hawaiian world champion and have my name on that list is something I’m super proud of.”

Sallas attributes a lot of success to the boards under his feet. A longtime surf instructor, Sallas started spending a lot of time in the shaping room when lessons slowed down during COVID. In 2020, he opened Kai Sallas Longboard Company (KSLCO).

Naturally, he rode his own boards and shaped a board for the WSL Longboard Finals with Malibu specifically in mind. He rode the Moon Tail, a new model that he shaped especially for the contest.

“Being a surfer helps with shaping and designing your boards,” says Sallas. “I am able to test every board I build and see what it needs and what needs to be fixed rather than trying to explain that to some shaper, who could misunderstand what you’re trying to say.”

Photo Keoki Saguibo/WSL

KAI SALLAS

As far as KSLCO is concerned, Sallas hopes to continue expanding his brand. He gets inquiries from people all over the world asking where to buy his boards, so this year, he hopes to make them available to everyone. He plans to start shaping in California, which will allow him to ship to the east coast. He’s also working closely with Thunderbolt with the aim of building some of his models overseas and getting them distributed worldwide.

Through his brand, Sallas has created a team of local Hawaiian riders including Kelis Kaleopa’a, Kaniela Stewart, Keani Canullo, John Michael, and Jack Ho. Cousins Kaleopa’a and Stewart are both top competitors on the tour and Sallas regularly surfs and travels with them.

“Kani and Kelis inspire me so much,” says Sallas. “Traveling with them and watching them do so well riding my boards makes me feel really good. I’ve watched them basically grow up surfing at Queens as little kids to become some of the best surfers in the world.”

Currently, Sallas’s favorite wave in the world is Malibu because it’s where he won his title. But he will always have a soft spot for his homebreak, Queens.

“It’s the perfect longboard wave,” says Sallas. “It’s good for nose rides and turns and there’s always something there. It gets pretty crowded so I think it teaches you to be aggressive, so I think that can help out in heats.”

Looking forward, Sallas was toying with the idea of retiring but feels he’s in the best shape of his life currently and surfing his best. So, for now, he plans to stay on tour and continue to surf some of the best waves in the world alongside his friends.

o m my P Photo: T

ierucki

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Empty Peʻahi Photo Brian Bielmann

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Luke Tema Photo Mike Latronic

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Alex Florence Photo Christa Funk

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AC C E SS OR IES W ITH A PUR PO S E

@ S IMB IH AI TI

THE AMERICAN

HAS ARRIVED

By Rebecca Parsons

Mainland and Hawai’ian surfing has never been so well represented on the Championship Tour…and it could just be the start of more to come.

In 2024, an eye-popping 20 surfers from the U.S. and Hawai’i will set sail on the Championship Tour. A full-on generational shift, while the Brazilian Storm has been pummeling the surf world over the last few years, it now appears the American Wave is rising.

KO LO H E A N D I N O Stance Regular First season 2008 Men's QS Age 29 Mar 22, 1994 Height 5 ft, 11 in 180 cm Weight 174 lbs 79 kg Hometown San Clemente, California, USA

Photo Brent Bielmann

T H E A M E R I C A N W AV E “It’s historic,” surmises San Clemente’s Griffin Colapinto, who finished his 2023 Championship Tour campaign ranked number three in the world.

got like 20 15-point rides. It was all over Surfline. It was crazy.

I thought, maybe, I was okay but might have made it worse because I surfed on it.”

Spawning revolutionaries like Christian Fletcher, Matt Archbold, Dino Andino and Shane Beschen, San Clemente has long been a hotbed for mainland surf talent, but this time it’s different.

They’ve traded rolling papers for journals, bongs for barbells and are serious about where they want to take their surfing and how they’re going to get there. Largely driven by Dino’s son, 29-yearold Kolohe Andino, it’s a study in what happens when one door closes and another opens.

Back home in California, Kolohe underwent an MRI and got news that would turn out to alter not only the trajectory of his career but also the fate of American surfing.

“Turns out it was pretty bad. It was an ATFL ligament and a high ankle sprain, both grade-three injuries,” Kolohe describes.

With the pandemic raging, as the 2021 Championship Tour season loomed, Andino headed over to the North Shore to train and get ready.

Undergoing surgery with Dr. Warren Kramer, Kolohe spent more than two months with his foot in a boot. Eventually recovering to compete in the inaugural Olympics, when Kolohe returned to the Championship Tour he was unable to conjure results and after more than a decade on tour, like that, his run was over.

“Sunset and Santa Cruz contests got canceled, but I still wanted to go to Hawai’i and figure out some boards and try to see what’s going on. I usually stay at Off The Wall and I wanted to see the wave from a different angle. I stayed with John [Florence] and we surfed for three days together—three eighthour days,” recalls Kolohe.

At home, Kolohe’s family was growing. With a little girl and another baby on the way, his attention and priorities also shifted from a full-time diet of competitive surfing to something considerably more domestic. With more time in San Clemente, Kolohe started to focus on the up-and-coming kids that were chasing their dreams.

“I pulled into one of the bigger barrels I’ve ever gotten and the wave just clamped on me. It must have bent out to sea at the last minute and just got me,” he continues. “My ankle was kind of swollen, but not bad. The next day was firing, that’s when John

Originally, his plan was to launch a video channel focused on his own surfing called “Stagnant Ambition,” but after spending more time with the groms around town, by the spring of 2023 it had morphed into “2% Surf.” Supporting each other in the water

ELI HANNEMANN Stance Regular First season 2017 Men's JR Age 20 Nov 7, 2002 Height 5 ft, 11 in 178 cm Hometown Lahaina, Maui

Photo by Daniel S Morigo/WSL

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G R I F F I N C O L A P I N TO Stance Regular First season 2011 Men's JR Age 25 Jul 29, 1998 Height 5 ft, 11 in 178 cm Weight 171 lbs 78 kg Hometown San Clemente, California, USA

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T H E A M E R I C A N W AV E and out, Kolohe not only mentored the surfers, but also paid for video gear to support a burgeoning crew of young filmers and photographers.

By the time the 2023 Challenger Series kicked off it was all systems go. Built like a linebacker, goofy-footed hammer Cole Houshmand rattled off win after win and was the first to secure his spot on the 2024 Championship Tour as finished the Challenger Series in the pole position.

“All that hard work is paying off. All the sacrifices. The good and the bad. The wins and the loses. I had one of my hardest years last year, and I think everything happens for a reason,” Cole explains with a sigh of relief.

Crosby Colapinto, younger brother to Griffin, and Sawyer Lindblad were the next two surfers from San Clemente to qualify. On the final day of the final event of the season, Kade Matson also locked in his spot. Along the way, Maui’s Eli Hanneman picked up on the energy of the 2% Surf crew and started traveling with the boys. Like Matson, he earned his CT spot on the last day of the Challenger Series season.

Not only was it a brilliant run on the Challenger Series this year, but there are a number of surfers waiting in the wings to join their friends on tour when they get the chance. Jett Schilling finished 15th on the Challenger Series, while ISA world champ Kirra Pinkerton and Bella Kenworthy were also in the mix going into the final event.

“We’re super vulnerable with each other and talk through all the thoughts we’re having so we’re not scared of hard times. As friends it brings us closer together,” Griffin describes. “You don’t see them as competitors, you see them as your brothers and you just want the best for them no matter what. I think it feels like a genuine brotherhood right now.”

But the picture is much larger than what’s happening in San Clemente. A few miles south in Encinitas, Alyssa Spencer and Jake Marshall have both qualified for the 2024 Championship Tour. Meanwhile, Eli will be joined by fellow Maui local Imaikalani DeVault.

COLE HOUSHMAND Stance Goofy First season 2014 Men's QS Age 22 Dec 27, 2000 Height 6 ft, 3 in 190 cm Weight 200 lbs 91 kg Hometown San Clemente, California

Cole Houshmand Photo by Pierre Tostee/WSL

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T H E A M E R I C A N W AV E The new class of American surfers will be flanked by reigning world champ Caroline Marks, five-time world champ Carissa Moore, three-time world champ John John Florence, world number three Griffin Colapinto, teen phenom Caitlin Simmers and tour vet Lakey Peterson. Meanwhile, Hawai’i’s rookie of the year Ian Gentil, Barron Mamiya, Seth Moniz, Gabriela Bryan and Bettylou Sakura Johnson are all back next season. And just to add a little more depth to the roster, the WSL has granted 11-time world champ and greatest-of-all-time Kelly Slater a wildcard for the season, who will be 52 years young when he pulls on the jersey.

Compare this to 2009 when Brett Simpson was the only American on tour under 30 and Melanie Bartels was the only woman. In 2010, Patrick and Tanner Gudauskas, Nate Yeoman and Timmy Reyes all got blasted by the mid-season cut. It would take more than a decade for North American surfing to bounce back. John John and Carissa have given Hawai’i plenty to cheer about as they’ve racked up their titles, but in recent years the conversation has largely been dominated by the rise of Brazil as a surfing superpower.

“We all want to see each other succeed,” tells Griffin. “We have the same goals and stuff, so it’s really nice to have each other to relate to and motivate each other. Seeing someone do really good makes you want to go out there and do your best. And I think we have a really good balance between having fun and being serious. None of us do drugs or anything, but we can still go party and enjoy life and have fun. Then we get up the next day and get after it in the surf.”

Out of the 15 qualification spots for men and women on the Challenger Series, over half went to surfers from the U.S. and Hawai’i.

Australia saw five surfers graduate from the Challenger Series, while Brazil picked up two. Clearly the big winners when it comes to qualification this year, the U.S. and Hawai'i are well poised to dominate the global surfing narrative over the next 12 to 24 months.

K A D E M AT S O N Stance Regular First season 2015 Men's JR Age 21 May 16, 2002 Hometown San Clemente, California

Kade Matson Photo by Daniel Smorigo/WSL

FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA CONNER COFFIN

SAWYER LINDBLAD Stance Goofy First season 2019 Women's JR Age 18 Aug 13, 2005 Height 5 ft, 5 in 165 cm Weight 125 lbs 57 kg Hometown San Clemente, CA

In total, 20 surfers from the U.S. and Hawai’i will start the 2024 Championship Tour season. And while Kolohe and the 2% Surf crew may have been the proverbial pebble in the pond, the ripples created by the movement have reached across the Pacific to Hawai’i and will undoubtedly continue to inspire rising stars from the region to get out there and chase their own dreams.

JETT SCHILLING Stance Goofy First season 2015 Men's JR Age 20 Mar 11, 2003 Hometown San Clemente, California

Photos Kenny Morris/WSL 58

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By Rebecca Parsons

Jackson Dorian is young, strong, confident, fast, agile and progressive.

He is the quintessential definition of the new guard. He grew up in Kona, a charming town on the west side of Hawai'i’s Big Island. If you follow surfing, the name Dorian likely rings a bell. Actually that should smash the bell. That could be because sixteen-year-old Jackson himself rips. Or, because he’s the son of legendary surfer Shane Dorian.

Photo Mike Latronic

JACKSON DORIAN

Photos Mike Latronic

“I’ve been on a board with my dad since I was a baby, so I don’t remember that,” says Jackson. “But I do remember surfing solo on one of my dad’s boards. I was addicted to the feeling of improving. I love trying to get better.”

The elder Dorian spent eleven years competing on the World Championship Tour, where he earned numerous victories and finished fourth in the world in 1999 and 2000. In 2004, he retired from the tour and shifted his focus to big wave surfing.

He went on to receive 10 WSL Big Wave Awards, two Billabong XXL Awards, and in 2010, he designed a safety suit that is now considered standard equipment among big wave surfers and is still absolutely shredding to this day.

Although the Big Island isn’t as well known for its waves like Oahu or Maui, Kona is home to small, yet powerful fun waves.

Jackson’s homebreak is Banyans and while he says that it never gets too big, he says the waves are fun and rippable.

It may seem only natural that Shane’s son would follow in his footsteps. Although Jackson was introduced to surfing at an early age, he leaned more towards skateboarding and would regularly be found skating the local streets. Skateboarding was his main passion until he truly discovered surfing and began transitioning from the pavement to the ocean.

“It looks like he’s having a great time,” says Shane of Jackson’s surfing. “He loves to go fast and he really loves the challenge of improving as a surfer.”

Like his dad, Jackson gravitated toward competition. Growing up, he competed in the HSA and the NSSA. 62

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JACKSON DORIAN

Photo Shane Grace

Growing up with Shane Dorian as a father begs the question of whether surfing was Jackson’s passion or his dad’s and if any pressure came along with it.

“It definitely didn’t add pressure,” Jackson says. “More than anything, he taught me to be a better athlete and sped up my learning process. He really didn’t force anything on me, just gave me advice when I asked. I was never trying to get better at surfing for my dad, just for myself.”

Age 5 Photo Tony Heff

“They were great learning experiences, because it was tough and I wasn’t really winning them,” says Jackson. “There were always really good kids, especially in the NSSA.” Like many up-and-coming surfers, Jackson is homeschooled, giving him the flexibility to surf and train throughout the week.

A typical week for the teenager consists of surfing twice a day, training twice a week, doing two hours of school a day, and eating a ton (he is a teenage boy, after all). When he’s home, he has a group of local kids that he surfs with under his dad’s guidance. When he’s on the road, he often works with a local coach.

“It’s been strange but so fun to watch him over the years,” says Shane. “I’m so happy for him that he’s so passionate about something in his life at such an early age. He asks me for feedback on his surfing and we watch his clips together, but I’m careful not to say too much—no kid wants to hear that stuff from their dad. I encourage him to work with coaches and try to learn as much as he can.”

Jackson is constantly focused on working hard to improve his surfing. Although he hasn’t had any big wins in a while, he hasn’t been deterred and continues to enter as many contests as he can to continue to better himself. Currently, he’s been entering WSL junior and QS events.

“I haven’t done really well or anything, but I like the process and surfing against surfers who are better than me,” says Jackson.

JACKSON DORIAN

Photo Leo Calbry

“It’s fun to challenge yourself in comps. Eventually I’d like to make it on tour, but right now I’m just focused on getting better.”

Thanks to his upbringing, Jackson has had the opportunity to travel to a lot of incredible surf destinations over the years. But he isn’t picky.

“I love surfing in all conditions,” he says. “Even crappy conditions.

I like trying to learn how to surf in every condition, and I love to travel but don’t really have favorites.”

As Jackson continues to progress, he hopes to become a wellrounded surfer that is fast and powerful and not afraid to fall. For now, Jackson plans to put all his energy into surfing and see just how far the sport can take him.

“Surfing is definitely my focus,” says Jackson. “I am putting all my energy into surfing. If surfing isn’t for me, then I think I will try to find something I am passionate about and makes me happy.”

“I hope that he always loves the joy of surfing,” says Shane. “I’m so grateful that we’ve had surfing to help us connect on different levels. We’ve traveled together a lot because of surfing. He won’t be young much longer, so I’m considering us very lucky in a lot of ways that we have spent so much time together surfing.”

Photo Mike Latronic

DREW

BROPHY

Photo Vdon Farias

Intro by Jake Howard Interview by Mike Latronic

S

it with Drew Brophy in the lineup at the San Clemente Pier and he’ll probably tell you he’s lucky to be alive. One time he peeled his scalp right off his skull on a reef in Tahiti, but that wasn’t anything compared to the months he spent in a coma battling covid and fighting for his life.

But “luck” probably isn’t the right word. Brophy’s resilience, ability to overcome adversity, and defy the odds is who he is.

Drew Brophy is one of the most influential surfboard artists in modern history. His art has reflected the imagination and spirit of surf stoke for the past three generations. He died, by the way, momentarily, but then thank goodness, he came back.

Coming up as a surf-stoked kid in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina in the ‘80s presented a myriad of challenges, especially for a creative kid like Drew

Sunrise

DREW BROPHY Brophy. A naturally talented artist with a penchant for powerful surf, by the time he was out of school the writing was scribbled on the wall.

“I rented his garage and that’s where I lived when I first moved to California. I met Matt [Biolos] and we hit it off right away,” said Drew. “This would have been around ’95 or ’96.”

“I had to get out,” explained Drew. “It was a dead end for me.”

M

att and Mike

Growing up competing on the East Coast during the days of Kelly Slater’s grommet hood, Drew was determined to keep surfing even if he didn’t quite have the abundance of talent his Florida neighbor did.

After a stint painting boards in Myrtle Beach in the early ‘90s a desperate Drew bought a one-way ticket to Hawai'i and never returned.

Reola were on the cusp of launching …Lost Surfboards. Drew quickly delivered the irreverent aesthetic touch. Having mastered the art of airbrushing surfboards in the factories on the North Shore, he had also been honing his skills with Japanese POSCA brand paint pens—a medium which had been largely ignored by surfboard artists.

“I went to the North Shore to paint boards and surf Pipeline. That was the dream, but like anything, I guess, that wasn’t the reality,” said Drew, “I got some work painting boards, mostly airbrushing because nobody was really using the POSCA paint pens.

I got to a point where I was painting the top guys’ boards. Some bigname guy would come in, explain what he wanted, and I’d paint his board, but getting paid was a different story. And I’d be out at Pipeline with all these guys and they treated me like shit.”

“Airbrushing is more technical, I knew that these pens would allow for a lot more freedom and creativity. I knew there was opportunity there,” said Drew. “This was still the time when a lot of guys were on all white surfboards and black wetsuits. We started putting color and fun into the art. We’d do anything we wanted on a board. There weren’t any rules. If somebody came in and said they wanted a picture of a goat with his eyeballs falling out riding a rocket ship, we’d do that. And I’d sign the board, nobody was really doing that back then either. The artists weren’t getting any recognition.”

It didn’t take long for disenchantment to settle in. Then Drew hit the bottom at Pipe. Smashing his face and body on the reef, he was a broken young man. Without any money or direction, and mounting medical bills, Drew sought a scenery change. He linked up with an old friend from Myrtle Beach who’d moved to San Clemente.

At this point in the evolution of surfing the Momentum Generation lorded over everyone. Kelly, Shane Dorian, Rob Machado, Ross Williams and company defined “cool.” There was also an air of elitism in the blossoming surf industry.

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DREW BROPHY “We were the misfits,” said Drew flatly. “We were the underbelly, the guys that were outcasts, and we accepted a lot of different people into what we were doing. We were trying to figure out how to make all [of] this work, so we could still have fun and surf every day. The competitive aspect had become very serious. We didn’t want to sacrifice what we thought surfing was really all about. We wanted to keep things loose. Mike was making these videos with Strider, Shea and Cory Lopez, Wardo and everyone, so that was part of it. Matt’s boards were more progressive. And then I’d paint them.”

A

s business started to build at …Lost, Drew and Matt hit the road together. Both dedicated to their craft, they jumped on the trade show circuit and started grinding.

“There were other artists contributing at the time, but I’d go with Matt to these shows because I could paint 100 or 200 boards over the course of a weekend,” said Drew.

“Things took off. Within a year I started making good money. We all did,” continued Drew. “I’d never had any money, so I didn’t really know how to spend it once I had it. I bought a car and a house with the money I made from painting surfboards.”

Drew still lives in that same house with his wife.

“Matt worked so hard, and I was right there with him. I don’t think it would have worked if he’d slacked off, but then- that’s not Matt,” added Drew.

The good times kept rolling for the next few years. …Lost embraced its role as the home for misfits, and subsequently, surfers the world over gobbled up what they were selling.

“We were going everywhere, shaping and painting and surfing.

We had a lot of fun during that time,” continued Drew. “It was like the dream had come true for us.”

In the early 2000s …Lost made the decision to expand and start producing a clothing line. Drew’s art was to figure prominently.

“The hardest thing I’ve ever done is when I went in to see Matt in his shaping bay and tell him I was out,” said Drew. “I was

offered a lot of money, but I was going to have to be in Irvine in an office working. I couldn’t do it. I still wanted to surf every day, enjoy my family and do my art. I didn’t want to have that corporate structure over me, so I walked away.”

To his credit, Drew has since blazed his own trail every step of the way. In the ensuing years he launched Drew Brophy Designs, and with the support of his wife, Maria, they built a remarkably successful art business. They do commission work with brands big and small, but one of their masterstrokes was figuring out the licensing game. Drew’s art has appeared everywhere from drug store boogie boards to coffee mugs, mailboxes and camper vans.

With a new lease on life, Brophy is healthy, happy, surfs on the daily and continues to create surfy, psychedelic masterpieces like he’s always done.

Tell us a bit of your evolution with doing this amazing art on surfboards?

I painted surfboards on the East Coast, so a lot of people don't realize my route. I was working for Kelly Richards at Perfection Surfboards and there I got introduced to a lot of great board makers and guys like Regis Jupinko from Quiet Flight. I was airbrushing and hand painting boards too.

Those were like the first POSCA Pen paintings.

There wasn't enough work there, so you couldn't make a career out of it so I decided to go to Hawai'i.

I ended up on the North Shore and went right to work at Pro Glass at Bill Barnfield’s shop. At the time Bill had assembled probably the greatest group of people going through there. Al Merrick's boards were going through there. Rusty Preisendörfer, Michael Byrne and others. It was just extraordinary to see Dick Brewer and Gerry Lopez coming through daily and Bill, you know, he was a real stickler for perfection. I was from nowhere, South Carolina, and then ended up in the epicenter of surfing painting boards for guys like Tom Curren and Tom Carroll.

Those were my idols so it was surreal. I was just kind of a factory worker at that point, behind the scenes, both surfing Pipeline and meeting everybody. I kind of kept to myself but I made all my connections with the guys that actually build boards and the serious surfers.

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DREW BROPHY The art you create on surfboards is colorful, beautiful, intricate and vibrant, but what happens when they break? It's bad enough to break a favorite stick but then with your art it must be worse! You must hear some real horror stories from your clients.

How about your relationship with surfing?

I just think we're so fortunate. It's an experience and endeavor that we can do for our whole lives. If you keep your body strong and there's no reason why you can't be surfing forever. And that's a very unique experience.

I've had so many. One time, Mason Ho had a board just done.

I was staying at Rocky Point and he showed up at like 11 at night begging me to paint this gun. He was gonna surf Sunset the next day and it was supposed to be pretty good. So I'm like okay, “What do you want?”

And he's like, “Oh, I'd love to get a dragon.” And I'm like “A dragon!?” That was kind of late at night for that but he hung out and we sat there and painted it and he was all stoked. And so we created this badass board and he was just so stoked. He goes, “All right, man, I'm gonna get the shot tomorrow!” And he left. The waves were good the next day and I didn't hear from him. I saw him eventually and he was ducking down. I'm like, “What happened?” He tells me, “I pulled into the barrel and I got squashed.” His board broke on the first wave. You know, I've heard that story so many times. It's okay. You go have these great rides, whether it was just one or a lot. And then you hang that board up and you just remember all the great rides you had on it.

When it comes to life experience you have a unique perspective. Can you try to summarize what happened to you with your life and death medical story?

You know there's something about being immersed in nature and then the love for surfing, I just felt like I was so clued in, and the art really was a reflection of what I was seeing and experiencing through surfing and being in nature. I kind of feel like my senses were a little stronger than most people. Then I had this experience of getting covid and being told I was gonna die. I was one of those people that was told that they moved me into a room with a window so I could say goodbye to my family. Not many people have had that experience [to go through].

At that moment I wasn't afraid.

I told my wife I got this. Don't let 'em turn the machines off. They put me to sleep so I could die and I wouldn't suffer, but I wasn't planning on going anywhere. You know when everything is taken from you, you have this different experience of getting it back and how lucky we are to have every experience. Even this amazing body that you've been given that so many of us don't take care of. To be able to move [it] and how waves work and that just the fact that a human can ride a wave. It seems extraordinary that we can paddle and catch it, match its speed in real time, jump up as it curls down and that we can navigate that and do it and become one with nature or the energy that all that is. Having been told I was going to perish, [I was] in a coma for a month, paralyzed for 3 and a half months and then rehab for about a year and a half. And to have died and come back, you really see that in this place that you go on the other side, that you're literally part of everything. It's profound. To come back

What kind of artwork was mostly requested?

It's usually a reflection of their personality. Surfers are such unique characters. Christian Fletcher back in the day: everything about him is punk rock. Tom Curren had the plain black bands on his boards, but that was him, that clean look. It’s a match to the personality.

You were really influential to the whole evolution of modern surfboard art. Was that intentional?

That whole movement was really about inspiring more people to be creative on their boards. Fast forward to today and that's exactly what's happened.

74

Three paths forged by a love of surfing

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DREW BROPHY from that and then be back in this body and be back winning each movement and breath and something as simple as a sip of water after not having a sip of water for four and a half months, you become extremely grateful for everything. It’s just such a unique experience that I'm still processing it.

It just took off like a skyrocket once we got it past the gatekeepers of the surf shops. Ultimately it was the public, the people, who decided: the surfers that decided they liked it. It took me a good five or six years to get it past all the industry gatekeepers and once the public saw it took off. It was amazing.

I’m 52, I feel like I'm getting back on track and I want to be better than I was and you can be if you take care of this body and build it and put the time in. That goes for the same with the art. The art's just a reflection of your experience and you're desperately trying to translate to other people what that experience is.

When did you first start getting into actually drawing waves?

Technically, what are you using to create your art?

I started using Uni POSCA pens in the late eighties. And at the time they were these acrylic pens that were created for kindergarten children in Japan. There were a few guys on the North Shore that were using 'em for pin lines.

Somehow I heard about this in South Carolina and I told a friend of my father's who worked in Japan and went there once a month. He bought me a bunch of POSCA pens and I started using 'em.

I pitched it to everybody. I thought it was the greatest thing ever. I thought they were gonna jump on it, but they just kind of looked at me like I was nuts. It wasn't until I came here [San Clemente] for the summer and started working with Matt Biolos and he was already doing some boards himself. The POSCA pens allowed me to be more creative and I was off to the races. I think that first summer I did so well financially I decided to stay here and not go back to Hawai'i.

When I was younger I was heavily inspired by album covers. I had four older brothers and sisters so they, you know, were listening to everything from Led Zeppelin, Jimi Hendrix, Alice Cooper, Rolling Stones and KISS and you get these crazy album covers. And then Surfer Magazine for sure and everybody from Rick Griffin to Bill Ogden, John Seaverson and Jim Evans, even things from Southern California hot rod culture like Ed Roth and Von Dutch. I gravitated towards those things.

So who are some of the guys today that are regularly getting your artwork?

I don't do that many boards for people these days because my business now has grown so much bigger. The only reason I do boards now is 'cause I never wanna forget where I came from. I was literally painting boards at Pipeline for anybody that would have me, so I could go buy a sandwich at Kammie's Market. I just wanted to make enough money to eat. To go from that to today is pretty extraordinary. But, you know, in those early days it was really just trying to do something that I was good at and living my best life, to be happy and surfing— [that] and art were the only two things I was good at.

I think that's a big lesson also for people to strive to be happy, not necessarily just to make money. People might think surfing and art is cool, but, you know, I kind of looked at it like I got these two bad cards dealt to me. Like how am I gonna make this

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DREW BROPHY

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work financially? I played my cards the best way I could. You might say it was a great hand, depending on how you play it.

Pretty much straight flush, dude. I can say that now 'cause thankfully I made it work.

You basically died, fought through rehab and returned to your family, life and surfing. You mentioned your love of surfing was actually part of that fight.

Pacifc Islands

Indo

It's addicting. It's like riding the heartbeat of the planet, especially the bigger the waves. Let's face it, surfers get to go to some of the most beautiful places on the planet. That's where all the inspiration comes from, the waves, the sun. I lived the dream just like everybody else. I didn't become a pro surfer but I surfed all the best waves in the world and I was still part of the story. I think whether you're a writer or artist or a photographer or a coach there are so many different aspects of surfing that you can participate in. The kids need to know that.

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As surfers we've experienced something that not many people are capable of understanding. You have those experiences and you want more. I think I'm still vibrating from some of the waves.

I do surfboard art because that's where I started. But all the other art pays the bills. I mean, I've done things from Google, 3M and IBM. I've worked for all the surf companies over the years and that's kind of a cool feeling. I think what's neat about art is that the best paintings are yet to come, but I gotta live to keep surfing and traveling and adventuring to get that inspiration to feed it.

Well Drew, we are sure glad you are still here to continue inspiring people!

QUALIFIERS

the World Surf League (WSL) Tours and Competition team confirmed the official competitor lists for the 2024 Championship Tour (CT) season. The 2024 WSL CT will feature the world's best surfers, as determined by the top-ranking finishers on the 2023 CT and 2023 Challenger Series, as well as the season and event wildcards selected by the WSL Tours and Competition team.

The CT will once again feature all of our athletes competing in fully integrated events across the CT calendar with equal prize money.

The CT format will kick off the season at the world-renowned Banzai Pipeline, will see the Mid-season Cut at the season's halfway point following Margaret River, and will conclude at the one-day WSL Finals, where the WSL Final 5 men and women will battle for the World Title.

Top 10 Qualifiers from the 2023 Challenger Series Cole Houshmand (USA) Samuel Pupo (BRA) Jacob Willcox (AUS) Crosby Colapinto (USA) Eli Hanneman (HAW) Imaikalani deVault (HAW) Frederico Morais (POR) Jake Marshall (USA) Kade Matson (USA) Deivid Silva (BRA)

Men's 2024 Championship Tour Qualifiers Top 22 Qualifiers from the 2023 Championship Tour Filipe Toledo (BRA) Ethan Ewing (AUS) Griffin Colapinto (USA) Joao Chianca (BRA) Jack Robinson (AUS) Gabriel Medina (BRA) Yago Dora (BRA) John John Florence (HAW) Leonardo Fioravanti (ITA) Ryan Callinan (AUS) Connor O'Leary (AUS)

Barron Mamiya (HAW) Italo Ferreira (BRA) Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) Ian Gentil (HAW) Jordy Smith (RSA) Liam O'Brien (AUS) Caio Ibelli (BRA) Matthew McGillivray (RSA) Callum Robson (AUS) Rio Waida (INA) Seth Moniz (HAW)

WSL Season Wildcards Kelly Slater (USA) Miguel Pupo (BRA) WSL Replacement Ramzi Boukhiam (MAR) 80

QUALIFIERS

Eli Hanneman Photo Brent Bielmann

Women's 2024 Championship Tour Qualifiers

Treat yourself

Top 10 Qualifiers from 2023 Championship Tour Rankings Caroline Marks (USA) Carissa Moore (HAW) Tyler Wright (AUS) Caitlin Simmers (USA) Molly Picklum (AUS) Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) Lakey Peterson (USA) Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) Gabriela Bryan (HAW) Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) Top 5 Qualifiers from 2023 Challenger Series Rankings India Robinson (AUS) Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) Sawyer Lindblad (USA) Alyssa Spencer (USA) Isabella Nichols (AUS) WSL Season Wildcards Johanne Defay (FRA) Brisa Hennessy (CRC) WSL Replacement Luana Silva (BRA)

Alyssa Spencer Photo Brian Bielmann

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NEWS & EVENTS

The 46h Annual North Shore Menehune Surfing Championships

By Aukai Ng Photos by Mike Latronic & Aukai Ng

Winter has returned to the North Shore of Oahu, thus the beginning of the season for freesurfing and competitions. Competitors

from across Hawai'i are now gearing up for the upcoming contest, especially the groms of the North Shore. Haleiwa held the 46th annual North Shore Menehune Contest. For two weekends, the younger surfers from early teens to small menehune groms had an opportunity to compete at the infamous Ali’i break. What the community appreciates about this event is that it is always fun for the kids. All the competitors get a goodie bag with great gear, work on arts and crafts, get free Acai Banzai Bowls, and most importantly get to surf Haleiwa with only 5 other kids out. Menehune Contest Alumni and professional surfer, Bettylou Sakura Johnson, gave us her take on this contest. “This contest is really about bringing everyone together. I have done this contest since I was six years old.

This is my very first event that I've ever competed in. And I learned how to surf at this beach. So it's a very special place to me.” A lot of these kids have the desire to become professional surfers so knowing how to compete with live scores and timed heats will be helpful for them in the long run. However, just being able to jump in the water and having fun is just as important if not more important than making the heat. “I think kids can learn from events like this really just to have fun and enjoy their time in the ocean.

And to be able to surf even with their friends really is one of the most special things that they can get.”

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MENEHUNE SURFING CHAMPIONSHIP

T

he surf conditions for this year’s event were very interesting.

The first day of competition started with consistent 2-3 foot faces, the perfect conditions for every kid. However, the following day had a new North West Swell of waves breaking from 8-10 feet, with some of the outer reef spots breaking. The waves were closing out on the main peak, but the inside was still surfable. The officials made due with what they had and they still kept the show going. The kids still had a great time and have plenty of waves to ride. The final weekend didn’t have the same conditions as the previous days, with only 1-2 foot surf, but again the show must go on. Heats did only have a handful of rides, but situations like this gave the kids a chance to know what it felt like to compete in very slow conditions and position themselves at the right time. Even with tiny surf, the Kokua Divisions had perfect size for them. The Kokua division consists of kids 5 years and younger, where they paddle out with their parents and are pushed into waves. This division is all about fun, so no scores or judging. Just a time to make memories and putting smiles on their faces. Even pro surfers like Luke Shepardson, Mikey Bruneau, and Mark Healey all had a fun time with their young ones. At the end of the event, new champions were crowned from all different ages and divisions. More prizes were given including surfboards from professionals like Coco Ho and Nathan Fletcher. This two week long event was one that these kids will never forget. The waves, the activities, the prizes and goodies have brought so much happiness to the kids. The Menehune Contest always gives a great community vibe that makes everyone excited for next year. This type of environment is one a lot of parents want to expose their children to, an environment filled with kindness, sportsmanship, and joy. The Haleiwa Menehune Surf contest is one aspect that makes the North Shore special and a place where these kids can be proud to live.

Ali H. Mesiwala, MD, FAANS Board Certified Neurological/Spine Surgery WWW.DRMESIWALA.COM

INDUSTRY NOTES

Justine Dupont, Nathan Florence take Big Wave Challenge Awards The New Big Wave Challenge held its inaugural awards ceremony in Nazaré, Portugal on Saturday. Though there was stiff competition from this year’s chargers, Nathan Florence and Justine Dupont won top honors, in addition to receiving awards for the rides of the year.

Though this is the first year of the NBWC, the event will seem familiar to many. The show was spearheaded by Bill Sharp as a replacement for the XXL Big Wave Awards, which he also founded. “Big wave surfing has found itself without a ‘town square’ over the last few years where all the athletes, shooters and fans can focus their attention and know what is happening in the sport,” Sharp told Maui Now. “A lot of the top big wave surfers came to me this last year and asked me to try to bring back the excitement of the old XXL event days – so I developed what I’ve been calling the New Big Wave Challenge.”

SURFER OF THE YEAR Men – Nathan Florence (Hawaii) Women – Justine Dupont (France) RIDE OF THE YEAR Men – Nathan Florence at Mullaghmore Head, Ireland. Video by João Tudella Women – Justine Dupont at Cortes Bank. Video by Johnny Decesare & Tucker Wooding PADDLE Men – Chacha Ibarra at Punta Lobos, Chile.

Women – Laura Enever at Outer Reef Oahu.

BIGGEST WAVE Men – (TIE) Nic Von Rupp at Nazaré & Shaun Walsh at Jaws Women – Justine Dupont at Cortes Bank WIPEOUT OF THE YEAR Danny Griffiths at Shipstern Bluff. Video by Talon Clemow YOUNG GUN Ned Hart (Australia) CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE SPORT Big Wave Tour founder Gary Linden Nazaré Mayor Walter Chicharro

The competition window included every wave ridden at every big wave break around the world from August 2022 through July 2023. Nazaré was an apt locale of the awards for obvious reasons, but the setting also had a pragmatic benefit. As Sharp explained, many of the big wave chargers honored by the awards would already be congregating in the region for the start of the winter season. It’s only fitting that those who competed and won awards are probably heading back out in the ocean, hopefully to return with even wilder footage for next year’s event.

Mokulele Surf Team Rider

Diego Ferri Photo Aukai Ng

128 Daily Inter-Island Flights!

The Best Way to Surf More Hawai'i

INDUSTRY NOTES

50-year-old Kauai resident Kevin Kanehe was attacked by a 12to 15-foot tiger shark on October 15 while surfing at Hanalei Bay. He was able to fight off the shark but suffered severe injuries to his knee and leg.

On November 6, the World Surf League announced that the 2023/2024 big wave season is open and the waiting period for the Tudor Nazare Big Wave Challenge in Nazare, Portugal had begun. The waiting period for the Tudor Jaws Big Wave Challenge in Maui, Hawai'i started on November 10th. The holding period for both events run until March 31st.

Former CT competitor and big wave surfer Shane Dorian named the new head coach for the Hawaii Surf Team. He will coach the team when they head to Brazil in November to compete in the ISA World Junior Championships. He coached the 2022 gold medal team and is an alumnus of the HST. His son, Jackson Dorian, will be competing on the boys U18 team.

The World Surf League announced plans to host its first ever event in South Korea: the Siheung Korea Open will be held at the Siheung Wave Park from November 17 through 19, 2023.

The World Surf League (WSL) announced Luiz “Luli” Fernando Steffen Pereira as the new Director of Officiating and Head Judge. Pereira brings years of experience: He was a Judge on the CT since 2005, served as Women’s Head Judge since 2020, and he judged surfing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.

After an exciting first year on the Championship Tour, Caitlin Simmers and Ian Gentil were named rookies of the year. Simmers won both the MEO Rip Curl Portugal and the VIVO Rio Pro, rounding out the season in fourth overall. Gentil finished the season in 14th overall, the highest rookie finish among the men.

Controversy has arisen over construction of the proposed judging tower at Teahupo’o for the Olympics. An online petition asking to halt construction is circulating with over 140,000 signatures.

A 30-year-old surfer was attacked by a shark while surfing Puena Point on October 25. He was helped to shore and then transported to the emergency room where he was treated for serious injuries on his leg.

On Friday the 13th, an anglerfish washed up at Crystal Cove State Park in southern California, an extremely rare event.

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INDUSTRY NOTES top ten qualifiers from the Challenger Series include Cole Houshmand (USA), Samuel Pupo (BRA), Jacob Willcox (AUS), Crosby Colapinto (USA), Eli Hanneman (HAW), Imaikalani deVault (HAW), Frederico Morais (POR), Jake Marshall (USA), Kade Matson (USA), and Deivid Silva (BRA). For the women, the top five qualifiers include India Robinson (AUS), Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS), Sawyer Lindblad (USA), Alyssa Spencer (USA), and Isabella Nichols (AUS).

The Pan American Games took place in Santiago, Chile with 24 medals being handed out and more athletes qualifying for the Olympics. For SUP surfing, Zane Schweitzer (USA) and Isabella Gómez (COL) won gold. For longboard, Benoit “Piccolo” Clemente (PER) and María Fernanda Reyes (PER) won gold. For shortboard, Lucca Mesinas (PER) and Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) took home the gold. For the SUP race, Connor Baxter (USA) and Candice Appleby (USA) secured gold.

The buzz about Abu Dhabi's new wave pool has likely reached your ears. Recent aerial footage showcased its massive scale, and just a few days later, Kelly Slater rode its inaugural waves.

This isn't surprising since the pool employs Kelly Slater Wave Co technology, as seen in California's Surf Ranch. Slater marveled at its quality, comparing it favorably to some of the world's best waves. Located on Hudayriyat Island in Abu Dhabi, the official opening date remains uncertain, but there's talk of a more accessible approach for the public, in contrast to the private group model of the Surf Ranch. Regardless of your stance on wave pools, it's hard to deny the irresistible fun of Surf Abu Dhabi's waves.

Ecuadorian surfer and Olympic hopeful Israel Barona passed away after suffering a seizure at the age of 34 while at an event in El Salvador. RIP.

Sterling Spencer released a documentary by Sam Kempf entitled Healing. The documentary discusses Sterling’s traumatic brain injury and a restorative trip he took to the North Shore.

After a lot of back and forth, 16-year-old standout Erin Brooks was denied her bid for Canadian citizenship, meaning she will not be able to represent Canada in the Olympic Games.

In collaboration with Western Australian-based studio Bungarra Software, Australian surf legend Barton Lynch enters the world of simulated gaming, with the debut of the first ever BARTON LYNCH PRO SURFING title. The upcoming surfing sports simulation game will be launched on PC (Steam), PlayStation 5 and XBOX platforms on November 17, 2023.

The 2024 Championship Tour roster is set and seven of the fifteen athletes joining the tour are rookies. For the men, the 92

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INDUSTRY NOTES

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Craig Sugihara was inducted into the International Surfboard Builders Hall of Fame in Huntigton Beach Oct 14. Congrats Craig!

Big shout out to new client Malibu Shirts Co. located in Historic Haleiwa. The shop features an array of tees representing Hawaiian vintage designs. It’s a great place to grab a piece of Hawaiian culture and see their museum of surf history memorabilia.

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San Clemente’s Griffin Colapinto underwent hip surgery to fix a torn labrum that he sustained at an event in Western Australia. Best wishes for a speedy recovery!

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BOARD STORIES

6 DAYS A WEEK! “Board Stories” can be seen in Hawai'i on Spectrum OC16 on Ch. 16/1016 and Spectrum Surf Channel Ch. 20/1020.

Spectrum OC16’s live stream is available on oc16.tv and the Spectrum TV app (to Spectrum customers in Hawai'i only), and nationally to any Spectrum customer on the Spectrum News mobile app and CTV app on Roku and Apple TV.

LAST LOOK Kai Lenny, more than any other surfer, can adapt to any conditions Jaws has to offer. Pulling into a giant barrel on the first swell of the season. It's only the beginning of what Kai has in his bag of tricks. We still have a whole winter left to see what boundaries he will push.

Photo Brian Bielmann