Freesurf March 2024

Barron Mamiya Photo Brent Bielmann / WSL

Brian Bielmann

BARRON MAMIYA

The accounts below are donating $1.00 for every “Mahalo Margarita” sold in 2023 to AccesSurf to support the disabled military veterans and teach them how to Surf. Cuervo Tradicional is matching those donations to AccesSurf.

OAHU

604 Alehouse

Beachhouse by 604

El Ranchero Kapolei & Wahiawa

Kuhio Avenue Food Hall

Lay Low

Mahi'ai Table (Foodland)

Manifest

Margarita's Mekiko Cantina

Princess Kaiulani Hotel

Scratch Kitchen

Suzie Wong's

TJ's Sports Bar

Waikiki Beach Marriott

Westin Moana Surfrider Hotel

BIG ISLAND

Bianelli's Pizza

Hilo Hawaiian Hotel

Lava Shack

Luquin's Mexican

Pineapple's

MAUI

Bobby V's Italian Restaurant

Fleetwood's

KAUAI

Jimmy's Grill

Living Foods Restaurant

Milagro's

FREE PARKING

KALA GRACE

Photo Brent Bielmann

Staff Shooters

Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver

Contributing Writers

Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Nicole Nason, Amanda Crater Olson

Contributing Photographers

Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Eric Aeder, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke, Mitch McEwen

Photo Brian Bielmann

Ever heard the expression “It ain’t over, til it’s over?”

This year’s Lexus Pipe Pro, presented by Yeti, was the inaugural event for the World Surf League’s 2024 Championship Tour. While the first day featured big, challenging surf it was anything but the perfect Pipeline. Pipeline events are historically action packed with momentous, harrowing tuberides, heat after heat, day after day. That’s the standard. That's the bar that has been set after nearly 50 years of surf competitions at this legendary wave and that's what spectators expect.

Plagued with relatively dangerous but messy surf, the 2024 event grinded forward on day one with a tough surf forecast and subsequently a few very marginal days of competition ahead. No fault of the athletes or event organizers, Mother Nature was not cooperating. Things were so lackluster at some point I thought the biggest, most memorable take away from the whole event was the clickbait fodder and disrespectful controversy harshly criticizing the twotime world champion Filipe Toledo for not charging hard enough when it was big and dicey. The man wasn’t feeling well. He’s one of the best athletes

ED NOTE

By Mike Latronic

surfing has ever seen and regularly hucks himself 12 feet in the air at 30 mph with 5 pointed reasons to be afraid right under his feet. Yet he isn't. While Filipe may be no one's first pick to win The Eddie or even get invited at this moment, the man is superhuman and deserves respect as a champion. My two cents, give the guy a break.

Now that controversy was a big deal. The ruckus seemed to go on for days, with all kinds of speculation and hearsay on unsocial media, and in the end, the two time champ decided to pull completely out of the world tour for one year to address his mental health. Wtf. This could’ve been the biggest news coming off the tail coats of event number one but it still wasn’t. Not even close if you ask me. The pandering of a few quick witted journalists and a lot of couch surfers making calls they likely couldn’t back up themselves could never hold a candle to actual amazing surfing and true grit.

The very last day of the PIPE event featured 4-to-8 foot grinding barrels, and the inspired battle between local heroes Barron Mamiya and John Florence could have easily been the top news flash again. It was an insane,

landmark, clash of the titans type of duel, but again there was another story. At the end of the day 16-year-old prodigy, event winner Caitlin Simmers could not have summed up the biggest news any better.

“Pipeline’s for the f%#*king girls!”

In the past few years, there’s been a monumental shift in the level of performance and overall expectations of women at Pipeline. There were indeed a few rare females that were starting to spark the imagination of the next generation of participants and onlookers. Hats off to Rochelle Ballard and Keala Kennaly for their performances decades ago at back door and pipeline, respectively and more recently to Carissa Moore and Moana Jones-Wong for breaking down some doors.

This year’s WSL championship event number one redefined what we can expect from the ladies at the pipeline. From Tatiana Westin Webb to Betty Lou Sakura to Molly Picklum and the whole quarter finals up in fact, the ladies showed true grit and pulled under and into meaty slabs all day long. It’s a new day for women’s surfing.

Photo Noa Napoleon

INTERVIEW

ELI HANNEMAN

There are certain humans that gracefully play with, or even seem to defy gravity. They exude a special relationship with momentum and inertia and move with rare dexterity. These people simply make incredible things look easy. It doesn't matter if we are talking about ballet, soccer, moto cross, boxing or any other sport. Although hard work, consistency and technique play a major role, these naturally gifted athletes stand out. Eli Hanneman could throw a football with a perfect spiral at four years old. He was a voracious wrestler before he was even 70 lbs and is one of those very gifted, very rare athletes in the sport of surfing.

Interview & Photos by Mike Latronic

A child prodigy, Hanneman started turning heads and winning trophies around the very young age of seven. He wasn't just a “good young surfer,” Eli was into advanced tricks and tail slides and such. Eli Hanneman has evolved to be one of the top aerialists on a surfboard today. Hanneman's big aerial “make rate” is among the highest in the business and this, in combination with solid flow, technique and maneuvers makes him one of the most dangerous rookies on the WSL Championship Tour. Eli's performances in waves of consequence like Sunset and Pipe have been solid and that's raising eyebrows from his peers and pundits. He is uber-competitive, determined and focused and may well be a contender in the the top five quicker than most people might imagine. The kids got serious game on the tour and in the ocean but surfing wasn't his first love, yet.

FSM: Historically you started boardriding at a very young age. Do you have any recollection of the first time you traveled across water on a wave and felt stoked about it?

was like four. So there were a few years where my dad was a huge surfer, so he is still a huge surf fan. He wanted me to just be someone who enjoyed surfing. So it was kind of just something that I did with my dad for a few years. I think it got to a point where I started to realize that skateboarding is a lot more prone to injuries.

FSM: Did skateboarding influence or help your surfing?

EH: I actually really started with skateboarding. I felt at the time I was more naturally gifted at skateboarding and it came so much easier to me. My dad was a surfer but I kind of didn't enjoy surfing (at first) because it was just so much harder to learn and there's so many more variables. I definitely remember when I had that turning point of having less fear for the ocean and more excitement for what it offers. I don't know the exact age, but I just remember that I was really into skateboarding and I wanted to be a professional skateboarder when I was all the way up until I was probably like eight 'cause I started skating when I

know what you're up against and you see the park, you see whatever street, no matter what kind of skating you do you generally know what you're up against. When you're surfing, it could be any conditions, any size, whatever. And so within that you have new opportunities and more freedom every day. I don't know. It's a never ending challenge.

FSM: Well obviously that changed. What changed your mind to focus on surfing?

EH: Skateboarding definitely influenced my progression in surfing a lot. It's kind of like how you think about when people learn a new language, like they compare it to their first language where they are fluent to the point where they don't think about their first language anymore. I'd say surfing is more free in the sense that there's more opportunity because when you go in the ocean, it's different every day and it's different every second. Whereas when you go to the skate park, you kind of generally

EH: In skateboarding I probably got good by the time I was like five or six. Probably like a year or two after that, (age seven or eight) I remember the first time I ever pumped down the line and got some speed on the wave. I'm sure it wasn't anything crazy, but to me it felt like I was flying on the wave and I remember coming in and telling my dad about it. It was kind of that moment of achieving something and like, you know, progressing. I'm someone who's extremely competitive with myself. I kind of have high expectations and when I achieve something, it kind of motivates me to keep going and get that satisfaction again. And that's still what's driving me today. The ocean part of it kind of came later once I started to understand how crazy it really is to be surfing. I felt like I would get hurt way less surfing because it's more forgiving. You fall in water instead of on concrete. That could also tie into the freedom aspect of it. Because unless you're out surfing big dangerous waves, there's a lot more you could put on the line without having to worry about injury until you get at a higher level and you're doing bigger airs, bigger barrels, bigger turns, then you start getting

"I'm a competitor through and through. You learn a lot about yourself as you compete more and more. I mean, I want to be a world champ. So I guess what I'm working towards is just becoming the best all around surfer that I could be."

into (a bigger) risk factor. Compared to skating, just basic surfing and going out and riding a wave, there really isn't much risk, I mean, unless you're over shallow water or anything. Generally it's pretty harmless and that's, that's what drew me in.

FSM: Let's talk about the trial and error of what you do. It's like you've got a tool chest filled with all these high level maneuvers.

EH: Yeah. I think for me it's been kind of just putting my energy into things that from a young age really were interesting to me. I've almost had to work backwards. I grew up and just wanted to do airs and you know the flashy stuff. As you mature as a surfer, you need to learn how to surf on the face. You need to learn how to carve and how to throw spray and that kind of stuff. Growing up and just focusing on airs and focusing on how to get outta the water (above the lip) was really crucial because that's what separated me (from others) I think, from a young age. Now it's actually been really motivating to kind of learn backwards and focus on my rail surfing and things that I maybe didn't focus on from a young age. And I feel like it is almost easier to learn backwards than to be in your mid-twenties and trying to learn airs. It's not that easy. So I'm grateful for the path I've taken and I'm glad that I am able to identify what my weaknesses are and really turn those into strengths. That's a never-ending process.

EH: I think it does. It's kind of a doubleedged sword because you need to have a good head on your shoulders to succeed, but at the same time, after a few years on the qualifying series you almost need a little bit of a chip on your shoulder. You need a reason to believe that you deserve to succeed and not the guy that you're against, you know? So there's a, there's a fine line between being yourself and kind of like, okay, like this is mine, not yours. “I deserve this,” because it's a very cutthroat sport and there's so many things that you can't control in surfing. There's so many variables and so many elements. This is kill or be killed. It's a thing that I'm

years just because I've dedicated a lot of time to surfing and studying it. I feel like I've had good experiences out there and I've had really bad experiences out there. I feel like that's all what goes into getting to know something or someone is just, you know, going through the thick and the thin of it. You could have the best wave of your life out there and you can also have the worst wave of your life. That's what makes it so special is the risk vs reward factor of it.

FSM: Where do you get your competitive spirit and how do you manage to keep it fresh?

learning to navigate and it's something that everyone deals with and it's just one of the factors that comes into play when you're a competitor.

FSM: Ok so there's a dynamic with other competitors for sure. But what about the ocean and certain surf spots? Let's talk about your relationship with Pipeline.

EH: Yeah, I think the difference between someone who has some spotlight on them early on and can carry that into their adult life and someone who gets kind of burnt out could be the competitiveness or maybe the expectations they have within themself. A lot of times you can be a freak talent but you really don't love what you do enough or maybe you're not driven enough to look within and do it for yourself. A lot of times I think it's easy to get caught up in how to make everyone else happy. What really helped me was just kind of not being as happy unless I'm succeeding. What matters is what drives you to be or get where you want to go.

FSM: Tell me about that winning feeling. Is it addicting?

FSM: You strike me as one of those really super talented people that has performed well all his life that has somehow remained calm and humble. Does that have any impact on your bigger aspirations?

EH: I'd say the Pipeline is probably the most relational wave in the world, just because of all the different phases it has and the danger that comes with surfing it. I feel like I've developed a pretty good relationship with it over the

EH: Yeah the winning feeling is what we all strive for. It's what we all do this for. It's pretty self-explanatory. It's what we all want to achieve.

FSM: Do you hate to lose?

EH: Yeah. It's a funny thing because I'm very reserved. I keep to myself and I tend to suppress my emotions a lot but there's one thing for sure and that's that I'm a competitor through-and-through. You learn a lot about yourself as you compete more and more. I mean, I want to be a world champ. So I guess what I'm working towards is just becoming the best all-around surfer that I could be. From two foot waves all the way up to ten foot waves. You know, I look at the world champs that have come before and they have been very wellrounded surfers. The proof's in the pudding. You look at the list of names and it's, you know, guys are generally pretty well-rounded surfers and that's what it takes. So you have to be good at airs, you have to be good at barrels, you have to be good at turns, you have to do it all.

FSM: You roll with a very talented bunch of surfer/sparring partners. Does that contribute to pushing you?

EH: Yeah, I have a really good group of friends. A lot of them are from San Clemente (2% Crew) and they've had this ongoing group effort of pushing each other and becoming better surfers from a young age. Those guys all have pushed me and they're all gonna be on the tour now.

FSM: So how do you feel about your first year in the “big leagues?”

EH: It's an interesting evolution of the journey that I'm on as a professional athlete because as you reach these milestones, like for example, qualifying for the WSL championship tour. It's kind of this leering thing over your head since a young age, like, oh, I want to qualify for the world tour. But you don't really realize that it doesn't just stop when you get there. Like I made it, it's all good. Like, it's all, you know, I'm just riding off into the sunset. But once you get there, then it's like, okay, now it's

ELI HANNEMANN

twice as hard to be where you're at and, and stay there. So that's kind of the interesting thing about having goals - you're always just gonna be chasing. It's something I'm learning to navigate because you can't never be satisfied because then you're not happy and that's really all that matters. So finding the balance between like, working hard and appreciating and keeping the hustle going.

FSM: Career wise, you could easily have one of those, “free surfer guy" careers, but you choose to keep going after this.

EH: Yeah, I have nothing against free surfers. I think it's great and I totally understand why someone would wanna become a free surfer. It's been something that people have said to me for a long time and at a certain point, I almost get offended

when people say, “You should just become a free surfer,” because I aspire to win. I've grown up watching surf contests, watching guys win world titles, and that's what I want and that's where I want to be. My preference is competitive surfing and one day I will 100% be a free surfer, but I feel like I have some competitive milestones to achieve before I get to that.

FSM: You started very very young and you are still very young, ultimately what keeps you stoked about this sport?

EH: I think a turning point for me was understanding that surfing is just so special in its simplest form, just kind of going out in the water just having fun on a piece of foam. It's the core of what it comes down to. And that's still to this day, I think what I love so much about it is just the simplicity and the freedom.

Caity Simmers and Barron Mamiya Win Lexus Pipe Pro Presented by YETI

Caitlin Simmers (USA) and Barron Mamiya (HAW) won the Lexus Pipe Pro Presented by YETI, Stop No. 1 on the World Surf League (WSL) 2024 Championship Tour (CT). Simmers defeated Molly Picklum (AUS), while Mamiya took down twotime World Champion John John Florence (HAW) in the Finals, held in picture-perfect six-to-eight-foot waves at Pipeline. These victories mark the first CT event wins at Pipeline for both Simmers and Mamiya.

The swell showed up for Finals Day and offered a dreamy canvas for the world’s best athletes to showcase their talent on one of the heaviest waves on earth. A huge day of competition in incredible conditions delivered the first-ever Perfect 10 in a women’s CT at Pipeline, highlighting an iconic day that featured match-ups that will go down in history.

Simmers Wins Pipe, Heads to Sunset as World No. 1

In just her second season among the world’s best surfers, Caitlin Simmers (USA) claimed a statement win at Pipeline, fearlessly attacking the solid Backdoor and Banzai waves all day. This marks the 18-year-old’s third victory on the CT and cements her place as one of the brightest stars of professional surfing.

“This wave is terrifying; I respect everyone who wants a part of it and everyone who doesn’t because it’s really scary out there,” Simmers said. “It starts with all the girls that battled the guys and barely got any waves, and I hope that this event showed the girls can do it. We’re getting spat out all day, and it’s pretty cool to see. I’m really happy to be a part of it.”

The women’s Final featured a battle between last season’s World No. 4 and No. 5, Simmers and Picklum, in the culmination of their success through the draw this week as the event’s overall standouts in Hawaiian waters.

Picklum put her foot on the gas first with yet another incredible ride at Backdoor to post a 9.27 (out of a possible 10) as her first score for the early lead. Simmers did not back out of the fight and came back at her opponent with a similarly deep tube on a foamy right for an 8.83 to stay right in the battle. With time ticking down, both surfers were still sitting on minimal backup scores, though a smart, twoturn combination from Simmers gave her the edge to apply pressure on Picklum. The Australian got a last roll of the dice in the dying seconds but failed to make a backhand barrel and Simmers walked away with the win.

Barron Mamiya and Caitlin Simmers Photo Tony Heff/WSL

Earlier in the day, Simmers scored an incredible Backdoor gem, posting a 9.17 (out of a possible 10) for a double overhead clean barrel, only matched by her precise technique to get a clean exit. This near-perfect ride set the Oceanside local on a path to victory in the first event of the season.

Picklum Finds Perfection at Pipe, Secures Runner-Up Position

On her way to the Final, Molly Picklum (AUS) found the first 10-point ride of the 2024 season at the most revered wave on the planet, redefining the boundaries of women’s surfing in the process. The Australian, who has been chasing that perfect backhand tube at the Banzai Pipeline all week, finally found herself in the right position. Dropping very late into a double-up, she barely squeezed under the lip before coming out with the spit to collect the perfect score for her flawless technique and commitment.

The 21-year-old will head to the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach as the defending event champion, in second position on the CT rankings. She will undoubtedly be one of the favorites again next week, especially if the waves keep pumping as expected.

“We were so blessed today to have Pipeline in its absolute best day of days, and to be out there with Caity was amazing,” Picklum said. “I was enjoying every moment and enjoying the rides. It feels like a second home here, and I’m thankful for all the locals that are really encouraging us women, show us around and show us how it’s done.”

Mamiya Finds Magic at Pipeline, Wins with Perfect 10-Point Ride

24-year-old Haleiwa local, Barron Mamiya (HAW), claimed the Lexus Pipe Pro presented by YETI men’s title in fantastic fashion, overcoming Florence in pumping surf to claim an early pole position on the 2024 CT rankings. Mamiya, who arrived on Tour after a wildcard victory in the 2022 Hurley Pro Sunset Beach, is no stranger to wearing the yellow jersey and will be lethal just up the road next week.

“That 10, I literally can’t believe I made it,” Mamiya said. “I was in the barrel and couldn’t believe I came out. Without John, without Jamie (O’Brien), without Uncle D (Derek Ho) I wouldn’t be who I am. I watched these guys surf my entire life, and watching John here is how I learned to get barrels at Pipeline, so I give him lots of credit for the way I surf.”

Continuedonpage54

Caitlyn Simmers. Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

RAFI NERI

By Mike Latronic

If stoke is the true currency for surfers then 17 year old Rafi Neri is well on his way to the Fortune 500! While this strapping young man holds positive consideration as one of the best up and coming surfers on any given swell at Honolua Bay, he is also afforded one of the best human compliments of all. His peers, uncles and friends describe him as “A happy go lucky young man.” And that reputation is gold.

Neri is a well liked person, full of life. He runs with the Roberson brothers and the Bovermans and a list of other top Maui surf crew and his main sponsor is Hurley..

Things haven't been exactly easy for Rafi the past few years and there are many who adore and respect this young surfer just for his perseverance and inner joy. Two years ago on a surf trip to Indo he snapped his femur. The surfing community and friends and family rallied around him with a Go Fund Me and though this was a life and career threatening injury Rafi persevered. And then some. With determination, optimism and hard work his return to form has been fantastic. He is fit and surfing better than ever.

Photo Dooma

FSM: Tell us about your early days. How did your passion for surfing begin, and what made you pursue it seriously?

RN: My passion began right as I started surfing when I was 7 years old and I had a surf coach named Jud Lau who helped me improve in my surfing. But up until that point I would play soccer and skateboard, but once I got that first wave I was hooked on surfing and the amount of fun I was having. It was like the best feeling ever. I was like, okay, this is like what I want to do.

FSM: Do you remember that day? Tell me a little bit about your first experience.

RN: Yeah, so both of my parents never grew up surfing or anything, so I was actually with my neighbor and he had this little old Kazuma board and he sold me it for $45 and we went down the Ho’Okipa and we just went out and I caught like a few waves and I was hooked.

It is the best feeling in the world. For me everything in my head goes away and it's just you and the wave in that magic moment. Surfing is a big part of my well being because it brings me so much joy and it's what I look forward to doing everyday.

FSM: Who are your surfing influences and how did they impact your approach or style?

RN: My favorite surfer is Julian Wilson and I always love watching him surf. I try to replicate his surfing into mine as much as I can.

FSM: Julian Wilson's a super stylish surfer. Is style something that's important to you?

RN: Yeah, for me, technique and style is the most important thing. I just like how Julian surfs. He has so much power and I grew up watching his movies all the time. I would watch his movies and I liked watching him on tour and I just always really liked his technique. FSM: How do you balance school, social life, and training to excel in both academics and surfing?

RN: I do online school so when I am not surfing I can do my homework. My social life is great because all my best friends surf with me almost everyday and push me to become better.

Photo Dayanidhi Das

For my training I try to work out at least five days a week. I lift weights and do various cross training classes every week.

FSM: Can you share a memorable surfing experience?

RN: A very memorable time was last year in November at Honolua bay. It was a small day but it quickly got bigger and there were only like 12 guys out at one point. It was perfect firing waves and I got some of the best waves of my life. It was small early and just started pulsing in the afternoon and it was just like the most perfect sunny day and the waves were firing and it was just me and a couple friends. Right place, right time. It was just perfect.

FSM: Is surfing a lifestyle to you or is it a sport or is it both?

RN: Surfing's like everything to me. I'll definitely never quit till the day I die. It's just like part of my life. Like it's so addicting. Like when I got hurt about a year ago I was outta the water and I was literally going crazy. When I would drive past the beach I wouldn't even look at the waves 'cause I know it would just irritate me. It was the best feeling ever when I finally was able to surf again. Yeah, I'm addicted. It definitely has a positive influence on my perspective, and makes me very grateful for what we have. I will do anything that will positively help protect our ocean.

FSM: How do you navigate the evolving surf culture and community?

RN: I just try to be the best person I can be and adapt well.

FSM: Can you share any experiences where focusing on your health positively impacted your surfing performance? In particular after your injury in Indonesia?

RN: Yes it's been about a year and a half since I broke my femur in two different places doing an aerial. I was in physical therapy rehab for about 6 months and I came out of the process stronger than I was ever before.

FSM: That was a serious injury. How important is physical preparation, surfing now and rehabilitation after an injury?

RN: I think it's super important because I wasn't super prepared for that injury and now that I experienced that whole process, I value it so much. I'll work out at least five times a week now. It was like a six month rehab for my leg and it's just super important to me 'cause if you're gonna surf and put yourself in gnarly situations you might as well be prepared.

FSM: Any advice to aspiring young surfers or extreme sports enthusiasts?

RN: I would say to always give 100 % in what you do and don’t forget to always have fun.

FSM: Anything else you want to say?

RN: I want to thank my mom, dad and my uncle Kale (Boverman) for all the support over the years and to my friends who always push me to be better.

Sensational Performers! Daring Acts!

CIRCUS CIRCUS the North Shore

Nov-Feb, Every Year!

Photos Brian Bielmann

Matthew McGillivary

Liam O'Brien

Caitlyn Simmers

Lucas Godfrey

Barron Mamiya

Barron Mamiya

Abe Lerner, Hawaiian Water Patrol

Carissa Moore

Brent Bielmann

Mason Ho and fans

Koa Smith

Kenshin Matsunaga

Johnny Cash At Folsom Prison

DAVE WASSELL MUSIC VIBES

My dad cruises around the house hummimg Johnny Cash songs. Often he'll look over and say “We all may think of ourselves as pretty cool, but none of us will ever be as cool as Johnny Cash.”

Janes AddictionNothings Shocking Saw them play at Aloha Tower. I remember crowd surfing on top of thoudands of humans while Perry Farrell belted out the songs.

The Brothers Cazimero

Some of my earliest memories are of my Mom dancing hula around the house as she played this. After a busy day at work, I listen to it as I unwind & drive home down the east side

Jimi Hendrix Rainbow Bridge.Volcom used the song Pali Gap for the Hawai'i segment in The Bruce Movie. Photog Daren Crawford and myself lived with Bruce in the Pipe House back then and would crank up the stereo and play Hendrix when Pipe would be cranking. If you havent yet, I highly suggest it The First 2 Albums

Van Halen 1984 the single- Hot For Teacher was my early teenage anthem. It depicted partying, rock n roll, and, of course a hot teacher. Years later, I'd meet my wife, the smoking hot librarian at the Bishop Museum. Guess you could say things worked out

Photo Brian Bielmann

OFF THE COUCH & Into the Water

By Amanda Crater Olson

When Ryan Carpenter first got sober, he thought he would never have fun again. That is, until he discovered surfing at the age of 25. He met a group of guys who were training in jiu jitsu and met regularly for surf sessions. They got him laughing, which he said “felt weird in my body because I hadn’t laughed in years.” Surfing and the camaraderie of a supportive group became his new drug, replacing the high of illicit drugs with the endorphins of exercise.

“Many people in recovery feel they won’t have fun again - I thought the only way to have fun was to drink and use and party,” Carpenter said. It’s no secret that surfing is fun, but the science supporting its mental health benefits is skyrocketing. The transformative power of surfing helped Carpenter overcome his addiction to drugs and alcohol, inspiring him to start a nonprofit organization dedicated to helping people get and stay sober. Surf therapy combines traditional therapeutic activities such as grounding and journaling with the physical experience of surfing.

From South Africa to Hawai'i and all across the globe, surf therapy groups are on the rise as surfing is becoming an acceptable form of mental health treatment. Co-founded in 2022 with Sophie Pyne, Waves of Recovery is one of hundreds of surf therapy organizations worldwide changing people’s lives through the healing power of surfing and the ocean. Organizations such as A Walk on Water, AccesSurf and Surfers for Autism provide new audiences with opportunities to surf and find community.

“Anyone who surfs knows it’s a very positive mental health treatment,” said Dr. Elizabeth Madin, co-founder of the nonprofit Surfing Moms. “Surfing is just like a joyful meditation where you just have to focus on what’s there - the fun of getting on a wave and just cruising along, there’s nothing like that really,” Madin said. Based on Oahu with multiple groups nationally and a sister organization in Australia, Surfing Moms organizes regular surf swap meetups where parents take turns surfing and caring for each other’s children.

Kainoa McGee and Makua Rothman, sharing the stoke. Photo Mike Latronic

THE SCIENCE OF WHY SURFING IS GOOD

Studies show that surfing is good for you. The science supporting the mental health benefits of surfing and oceanbased activities continues to mount. “Surfing and other sports provide alternative rewards by satisfying the brain’s desire for stimulation, novelty, and a neurochemical "rush ", writes Dr. Wallace J. Nichols in his groundbreaking book Blue Mind. New research documented in Wallace’s book validates the intangible benefits of surfing with studies and data. “For an increasing number of those struggling with the most merciless of addictions, the curative effects of water are impossible to deny,” he writes.

RISE OF THE SURF THERAPY SECTOR

“You can’t help but feel that some kind of magic is happening in the surf therapy sector,” said Kris Primacio, CEO of the International Surf Therapy Organization (ISTO). ISTO is a global nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing

surf therapy research and promoting collaboration among surf therapy practitioners and researchers. The number of partner organizations in the umbrella organization has skyrocketed from 8 at its founding in 2017 to 133 contributors as of December 2023.

“There are a lot of us out there doing this work,” said Kelsey Ellis, founder of Waves of Grief based in Half Moon Bay, CA. “There are a lot of niches in the surf therapy realm,” she said. Other surf therapy groups focus on populations such as veterans, special needs individuals, people with disabilities, women, underserved groups, youth, people of color, exoffenders and more. “That’s what surf therapy does - it helps all the underserved, underprivileged groups,” said Lisa Bosworth, founder of Healing Wave Therapy in Huntington Beach, CA. Bosworth provides pro bono surf sessions to previously incarcerated individuals, joining a movement of passionate individuals sharing their love of surfing with new communities.

Photo Tony Heff

ALWAYS SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT LEFT... RAINBOW

Danielle Black Lyons, co-founder of the surf collective Textured Waves, also strives to bring surfing to marginalized groups. By promoting the sport of surfing toward women of color, Textured Waves aims to shift the narrative in modern day surf culture. “Historically, people of color in many parts of the world have faced systemic barriers to accessing oceans and beaches,” Black Lyons said. Surf therapy groups share the joy of surfing with diverse groups of people, existing in a spirit of service and environmental stewardship. Many groups such as the Changing Tides Foundation and Groundswell Community Project include beach cleanups and environmental education as part of their surf therapy programs.

Urban Surf 4 Kids in California focuses on foster and homeless youth, receiving support from local restaurants and sponsors such as the restaurant Duke’s La Jolla. “To bring kids that haven’t had the opportunity to be in the ocean, to expose them to something that is so organic and natural, is really healing - it gives them a sense of awe and wonder of nature,” said Ryan Clancy, general manager at Duke’s Huntington Beach, a restaurant chain based on the legacy of the father of modern surfing, Duke Kahanamoku.

The spirit of community runs through the heart of surf therapy organizations. “Duke was about connecting people,” said Ann Yoshida, Training and Innovation Specialist at AccesSurf. AccesSurf holds adaptive surfing championships and surf days throughout Hawai’i and worldwide, providing unforgettable, fun surfing experiences for people with disabilities. Yoshida noted that as the “ambassador of aloha,” Duke empowered other people to participate in water sports. “When people start feeling like surfing or any sport is part of their identity, they get a lot more confident to be able to do other things in life,” she said.

Surfing is great for mental and physical health, but the benefits extend beyond the individual surfer. Family members benefit too, as do the volunteers themselves. “Families enjoy mingling with other special needs families in a safe, fun and judgment-free environment,” said Surfers for Autism CEO Moose Brown. Natalie Small, Founder and Executive Director of Groundswell Community Project, attests to the healing effects of surfing extending beyond the surfer. “It’s really cool to see that it’s not just about the client, it touches everybody,” Small said. Groundswell is the first organization to provide accredited training in the field of surf therapy.

Surf therapy advocates hope to embed surf therapists in existing organizations, expressing the goal of universal acceptance of surfing as legitimate mental health intervention.

“Being around large bodies of water has been proven to have a profound impact on emotional, physical, mental health and wellbeing - that’s the research,” said Kelsey Ellis, founder of the surf therapy nonprofit Waves of Grief. “When you are in the ocean or you’re around the ocean, all of your senses come alive,” she said. Many surfers describe the feeling as being in “flow state,” a mental state when a person is completely focused on a single task or activity. “What surf therapy accomplishes that you can’t really accomplish in a traditional therapeutic setting is flow state, or forced mindfulness,” Ellis said.

Hans Hagen, ex professional surfer and Executive Director of the Mauli Ola Foundation, describes flow state as “a place where your actions and reactions override any forethought or preconception and you truly live in the moment.” The Mauli Ola Foundation promotes awareness of the genetic disease cystic fibrosis, taking patients surfing with professional instructors and providing a natural treatment for their lungs through inhalation of salty ocean air. “If you could ever help people forget the daily demands of the disease for a moment, then we’re doing our job, and that comes from having fun,” Hagen said.

Universal acceptance of surf therapy as an insurable form of therapeutic intervention is the goal. “Surf therapy is an unknown entity in the insurance world - they don’t cover it,” said Jason Wolk, founding board member of A Walk on Water. He said in the future he hopes that it won’t be just charities providing this kind of intensive therapy. “The impact of surf therapy via the stoke is great and immeasurable,” Wolk said. “The evidence is on the beach.”

Continuedonfrompage24

The all-Hawaiian men’s Final witnessed 2021 Pipe victor and mainstay Florence, and proven Pipe charger, Mamiya, battling in their own backyard. The first exchange was a split of the peak, Mamiya going left and Florence right, with the two-time World Champion getting the nudge, earning a 7.33 over his opponent’s 6.00. Only moments later, both surfers started on back-to-back lefts and while Florence’s first wave of the set looked good, Mamiya behind got way deeper on a bigger wave and rode it to perfection, scoring a Perfect 10-point ride, the second to be claimed on an epic Finals Day. As time slowly ran out, Florence found a few more opportunities, trying to manufacture a score out of lesser quality waves, but was unsuccessful, sealing the deal on Mamiya’s second tour victory, his first at Pipeline.

“Growing up on the North Shore, this is an event that you always want to win,” Mamiya added. “To finally win it, with John in the Final, and to get a 10, I’m literally at a loss for words. I’ll definitely never forget this day for the rest of my life.”

Florence Passes the Torch to Fellow North Shore Charger, Settles for Runner-Up

Two-time World Champion John John Florence (HAW) added another impeccable run to a long list of results from his home event, continuing to post incredible scores in most heats on his way to a fourth Final appearance at Pipeline. This marked Florence’s 100th career CT event and he has his eyes set on a big year ahead with renewed vigor for competition.

At 31 years of age and after nearly 15 years on Tour, Florence’s passion for competing looks intact and his motivation and relaxed attitude promise more exciting battles as the CT continues next week at Sunset.

Keani Canu

Kai Saas Shaping

K is Kaleopaa

John Florence Photo Brent Bielmann / WSL

Treat yourself

Women’s Semifinal Will Go Down in Surfing’s History Books

The second women’s Semifinal will go down in surfing history books as arguably the most entertaining showdown ever witnessed on the women’s CT. Picklum and Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) put everything they had on the line at both Banzai Pipeline and Backdoor, locking into deep, radical barrels on multiple occasions throughout their 30-minute matchup.

For highlights from Finals Day at the Lexus Pipe Pro Presented by YETI, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

Lexus Pipe Pro Presented by YETI Women’s Final Results:

1 – Caitlin Simmers (USA) 12.66

2 – Molly Picklum (AUS) 10.64

Lexus Pipe Pro Presented by YETI Men’s Final Results:

1 – Barron Mamiya (HAW) 16.00

2 – John John Florence (HAW) 15.33 Marks (USA) 6.50

Women’s Semifinal Results:

HEAT 1: Caitlin Simmers (USA) 7.67 def. Brisa Hennessy (CRC) 2.84

HEAT 2: Molly Picklum (AUS) 15.60 def. Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) 15.33

Men’s Semifinal Results:

HEAT 1: Barron Mamiya (HAW) 18.84 def. Connor O'Leary (AUS) 7.43

HEAT 2: John John Florence (HAW) 16.10 def. Ian Gentil (HAW) 7.16

Barron Mamiya. Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

Mokulele Surf Team Rider Vaihiti Inso

Photo Mike Latronic

CURRENT WORLD CHAMP FILIPE TOLEDO ANNOUNCES WITHDRAWAL FROM REMAINDER OF 2024 CT SEASON

Filipe Toledo (BRA), reigning two-time World Champion, announced his withdrawal from the remainder of the WSL 2024 Championship Tour season to take a one-year mental health break from competition. Toledo shared insights into his decision in the following statement:

“It is with a heavy heart that I announce today that I am withdrawing for the remainder of the 2024 Championship Tour season. This decision has been so hard for me to make, and it comes after days of discussion with those closest to me. The WSL has been very supportive, and I am very grateful that they have granted me the wildcard for the start of the 2025 season. I am committed to coming back better than ever.

“In the past, I have been honest about some of my challenges not only with injuries, but also with mental health. Competing at the highest level for the past decade has taken a toll on me, and I need a break to recover for the next chapter of my career.

“The platform of the CT has given me everything – it is a dream life that has allowed me to support my family in ways I could never imagine and have incredible experiences. I love this. I live for this. I have so much respect for my fellow competitors, both the men and the women on tour. You guys are amazing.

“I have so much passion for the sport, but I need some time off to fully recover so I can come back stronger than ever. I appreciate the support and loyalty of my family, friends, sponsors, and the WSL. I hope my fans around the world understand this decision and will stick with me when I return to the tour next year. I wish my fellow competitors a great CT season ahead. I will be watching!”

Toledo will receive the 2025 Season Wildcard, which will allow him to compete in the 2025 CT season.

Filipe Toledo Photo Sloane/WSL

Moku rider: Rob Palazzo Wilderness, Borinquen Puerto Rico

TSUNAMI BURGER WITH FRIES

Hale Kope (Coffee Shop) 730am - 430pm

Kikoni (Bar) 10am - 430pm, Thursday's Till 6pm

Wahi Aina (Grill) 10am - 430pm

Wailele (Shave Ice and Local Snack Shop) 10am - 4pm Open Kitchen

Kama'aina Discounts | Pau Hana Thursday's

Hale Kope Loyalty Card, Purchase 7 Coffees Get One Free

All-Pro wide receiver Davante Adams and content creator Davis Burleson presented Kai Kenny with honors and accolades for their love and dedication to Taco Bell. Presenting the first-ever Bell Award winner, Kai Lenny

On Monday, February 5, 2024, Austin Gibbons was involved in a tragic surfing accident at Hawai'i's world renowned Banzai Pipeline. Austin, 25, a resident of Long Beach, NY, was enjoying a full day of surfing and was taking off on his last wave of the day. What Austin didn't realize was that this wave would be the start of his "Fight for Life". He was held under by the brute force of two waves of whitewater, which unforgivingly filled his lungs with sea water. He was rescued by fellow surfers and lifeguards, who brought Austin back to us through CPR. He was rushed to the Medical Center in critical condition and was placed in a medically induced coma.

His mother, Christine Eidt Gibbons, grabbed an emergency flight to Hawai'i to be by her only child's bedside. Her love, strength and perseverance during this time is a testament to the "Fight for Life" that her son is enduring. We are asking you to help the Gibbons Family cover the mounting costs of the medical and lodging bills that are accumulating. Please keep Austin, his family, the medical staff and the heroic North Shore Lifeguards in your prayers.

The Choice of Hawaii

Keeping you & our ecosystems looking good, Naturally!

BOARD STORIES

6 DAYS A WEEK!

O’Neill is proud to partner with Hawaiian Island Creations, Inc. (“HIC”) on a flagship store on Kalākaua Ave, the main street for tourism and locals alike, in Honolulu, HI. This store will help O’Neill and HIC provide a global community of travelers, surfers, and adventurers with clothing and accessories to inspire the surfers spirit in us all. This store accompanies eleven other HIC store locations on Oahu, and more across Maui and the Big Island.

‘We’re privileged to partner with Hawaiian Island Creations to bring a truly special O’Neill experience to Waikiki. This collaboration celebrates the spirit of surfing, and the rich Hawaiian culture that inspires us all. We’re honored to be working closely with Leigh, Steven and the whole HIC team.’ –Mark Tinkess, GM O’Neill

“HIC felt the timing was good to partner with O’Neill to open a store in Waikiki. They have a sound management team who we trust, enjoy working with and have been there a while. They are committed to surf and are focused on growing their business in Hawai'i. These values align well with HIC’s and we look forward to a prosperous and expanding partnership.”

Leigh Tonai, CEO Hawaiian Island Creations, Inc.

Birthdays in March

• Laird Hamilton, March 2

• Mark Richards, March 7

• Mike Parsons, March 13

• Tyler Wright, March 31

LAST LOOK

COLIN MACLEOD

Photo Brent Bielmann