ESSENCE OF SURF
SURFER: Hank Gaskell Boardshorts: Puerto Rico LOCATION: Filming Sound & Vision 3 “What an epic trip! Brett, Ace and I scored some really fun surf on both coasts of Australia. Even when there was no surf we had a blast fishing, playing bball, barbecuing and just hanging out with a bunch of good people. There’s never a dull moment in Australia. I love the place!” -Hank Gaskell
RIDER: IAN WALSH PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHN HELPER ©2008 O’NEILL
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November 24th - December 6th 2008
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Photo: Baeseman
[Kamalei Alexander, Backdoor.]
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THE BALANCE OF OPPOSITES VOLUME 02 | CHAPTER 06 MAKUA ROTHMAN’S 9–5 Makua was having a good day: went on the morning news at 7am, had quick surf at 9:30am, then hit Turtle Bay golf course at 11:00am. After 17 holes, he was on his way to shooting an all time best, all he needed was a par. He was on the green in regulation and had a three-footer for birdie, without hesitation he sunk the put. Later that night, with the same fortitude, he introduced BJ Penn to a crowd of 8,500 people at the Shell in Waikiki. All in a day’s work…
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Even though Jamie Sterling claims his best barrels at Puerto Escondido this summer were lefts, its obvious he clocked into his fair share of tube time in the huge hollow rights. It just goes to show that there’s more than one perspective to any scenario. Whether it’s Bruce’s decision to leave the tour for video production or different angles of the same wave, there are always (at least) two sides to a story. Viva color!
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A product of Manulele Inc. VOLUME 5 • NUMBER 11 publisher MIKE LATRONIC editorial --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------managing editor KEVIN WHITTON copy editor NOA MYERS content manager TONY HEFF free thinkers KELI CAMPBELL, BEAU FLEMISTER, LAARNI GEDO, TONY HEFF, SIRI MASTERSON, JEFF MULL design ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------art director KYLE TANAKA graphic designer TIARRA WIGGS staff photographers ERIC BAESEMAN, TONY HEFF, JUSTIN RIDDLEBERGER, TYLER ROCK
Turtle Bay Resort is a proud sponsor of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Stay between November 12 and December 20 and enjoy these special rates.
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contributing photographers ERIK AEDER, SCOTT AICHNER, BERNIE BAKER, JAMIE BALLENGER, MARK BERKOWITZ, BRIAN BIELMANN, JOHN BILDERBACK, BO BRIDGES, VINCE CAVATAIO, DAREN CRAWFORD, BEN DECAMP, DOOMAS, WILLI EDWARDS, BRANDON ELLS, BEAU FLEMISTER, HANK FOTO, ISAAC FRAZER, PETE FRIEDEN, KENNY GIBBS, STU GIBSON, GORDINHO, YHAZI GRAHAM, HAJ, JOHN HEPLER, JON HUBERMAN, ERIK IPPEL, JOLI, BUZZY KERBOX, DANNY KIM, PETER KING, LANCIFER, RIC LARSEN, BRUNO LEMOS, CARL LUCAS, MANA, MIKE MCGINNIS, JUSTIN MORIZONO, ALLEN MOZO, NOA MYERS, NOA, DAVE NELSON, CAROL OLIVA, SERGIO OLIVERA, BRUCE OMORI, BRADY OSHIRO, MANNY PANGILINAN, CHRISTIAN PERALTA, JIM RUSSI, PAKE SALMON, EPES SARGENT, BOBBY SCHUTZ, SPENCER SUITT, BILL TAYLOR, TK, KEVIN WHITTON, DARRELL WONG
sales ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------director of sales and marketing SEAN WINGATE advertising executive SHAUN LOPEZ business coordinator CORA SANCHEZ executive assistant SIRI MASTERSON advertising inquiries -----------------------------------------------------------------------contact 808-429-8460 or swingate@freesurfmagazine.com www.freesurfmagazine.com FreeSurf Magazine is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FreeSurf on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com. Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the Editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates will not be responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or the return of these submissions. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 Email editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com
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Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.
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1) This isn’t your 80’s spandex (you know who you are), Seth McKimey and Hi-Tech owner Kim Ball test Hurley’s Phantom Stretch. 2) Hawai‘i ASR crew: Kevin, Scott, Nicole, Tami and Scott. 3) Keri, Keali‘i and Sunny. 4) Macy Mullen is obviously digging SoCal. 5) Jim Kempton: the man, the myth, the book signing. 6) Hunter Joslin performs the high five double flying Indo Board shaka. 7) Power business brokers Rico Jimenez and Jason Magallenas. 8) Torrey Meister, John Oda, Heather Rosenthal and Domea Dorsey. 9) Leah Dawson chilling with the new Rip Curl Marketing Coordinator, the lovely yet infamous Chelsea Johns.
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Photo: Chris Hagan
INTRODUCING THE PANCHO FIN – STRONGER AND LIGHTER FOR THE LARGER SURFER Future Fins now offers the Pancho Truss Tang fin. With a template built for larger riders & power surfers, the Truss Tang increases strength and sheds weight. By decreasing the material in the base (dead load) your board will be lighter, faster and feel more “alive” than ever. Check out the new Pancho fin, and the complete Future Fins Che ph: 888.579.0823 line up at your local surf shop. www.futuresfins.com revolutionize your surfing
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Training Secrets of the North Shore Lifeguards Hawai‘i, in all her beauty, can have extreme mood swings—in a matter of hours ocean conditions can go from playful and manageable to extremely dangerous. The isolated island chain is respected by lifeguards around the world as a unique place to guard because of the challenges and unpredictability of the ocean. It’s not surprising then, that the Hawai‘i Ocean Safety Officer must go through rigorous physical (and mental) training to be prepared for anything. In order to be versatile, a lifeguard has to be on top of his/ her game. They must be able to swim long distances after strenuous running, able to paddle and navigate bulky rescue boards with the weight of another person, and have an acute awareness of individual beaches, ocean conditions and the surrounding environment. So, how do lifeguards train for the inevitable? “Just stay in the water,” says Jerry Miller, who has been a Hawai‘i lifeguard for 26 years and on the North Shore for 20. He prepares for the winter by mixing water time with resistance (weight) and cardio training. As he puts it, he’s “working for strength.” During the summer he focuses more on going to the gym and tries to work on at least two muscle groups a day. “One day I might work my chest and back, then the next day I might do bi’s and tri’s.” He says that summertime is the right time to practice extended paddles, long distance running, sprints and lots of swimming. During the winter, on the other hand, for most lifeguards on the North Shore it’s just surfing, surfing, and more surfing. “You have to have a strong surfing background in order to be a lifeguard,” Jerry says. “The best test is to not wear a leash. If you can’t swim in then you shouldn’t be out there. If knowledge of currents, rhythm of the ocean,
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By Siri Masterson
timing and positioning aren’t there, then all the physical training in the world won’t matter.” Robert Dorr, a 14-year lifeguard veteran, echoes Jerry’s knowledge. “If everybody took off their cord and figured out the ocean without it, the lineup would be a much safer place.” Ocean muscles and beach muscles are two separate groups; somebody who trains in the gym all the time might try going in the ocean and find that they are ill suited for the water. The only way to build confidence in the ocean is to be there as much as possible. “But most importantly,” Dorr says, “have fun with it, do whatever floats your boat. We’re all out there to be stoked.” Once a year, all Hawai‘i lifeguards must re-certify their E.M.S. (Emergency Medical Service) training, which includes being updated on the latest CPR requirements, a review on basic rescue techniques and a physical performance evaluation. There are four performance tests a lifeguard must pass in order to remain in work. If you really want to see if you are in basic lifeguard condition, give the physical tests a try. But don’t forget that there is no substitute for getting to intimately know our mother ocean. [PAU] Hawai‘i Lifeguard Performance Tests: Who da man? Run 1000 Yards/Swim 1000 Yards – Under 25 Minutes Pool Swim 500 Yards – Under 10 Minutes Rescue Board Paddle 400 Yards – Under 4 Minutes Run 100 Yards/Swim 100 Yards/Run 100 Yards – Under 3 Minutes
Photo: Heff
Photo: Heff
Photo: Rock
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Photo: Baeseman
BEST CONTEST RESULTS: 2008 – 2nd NSSA Nationals Open Juniors Division 2005 – 1st HASA State Championships Menehune Division
Photo: Heff
2005 – 2nd NSSA Nationals Open Boys Division
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Resurrecting
BRUCE IRONS By Jeff Mull
SurFing’s Anti-Hero Makes his Second Act
Photo: Tron
At 29 years old, Bruce Irons is turning over a new leaf in his life by creating a new beginning for himself. He’s stepping off the World Tour, and in the process, revolutionizing professional surfing by opting to spend his time pushing himself over the ledge for the cameras rather than the ASP judges. Welcome to Bruce’s new world…the future of professional surfing.
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Photo: coveredimages/rowland
It’s never easy to go against the grain. From its inception, the World Tour has always been the place to be, the Promised Land, 72 virgins, perfect waves, cold beer, a place where surfing shines and progression is rewarded. The Good Life. But as goes life, as goes the World Tour and things are rarely what they seem. The beer is indeed cold, the waves are indeed firing, but in truth, being onthe ’CT is a grind to say the least. Layovers, jetlag, magazine interviews, autographs, photo shoots, team managers—they’re all constantly jockeying for your undying attention. But let’s be clear: Life on the Tour sure beats the living hell out of the cubicles and florescent lights where most of us spend our 9 to 5. But then again, Bruce Irons isn’t most of us. Having grown up a part of a surfing dynasty, the Irons Clan planted deep roots throughout the Hawaiian Islands and by the 1970s had cemented their name as a reputable family full of talented, promising surfers. Raised along the razor-sharp reefs of Kaua‘i’s north shore, at a young age Bruce and his older brother Andy were quickly forging a reputation for themselves in the surf industry. Their weekend jaunts from the Garden Island to the North Shore mesmerized the surf world with their progressive, balls-to-the-wall approach to Backdoor and Pipeline, all with their
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characteristic aloofness and common disregard for personal safety. “I remember the first time I really saw Bruce surf on the North Shore,” says Rick Irons, cousin to Bruce and current publisher of Surfer Magazine. “He must have been around 13 or 14 and he was just ripping backdoor…just playing with it. I wasn’t the only one impressed. A lot of people saw how confident he was out there and what he could do. That’s when people started to take note of Bruce and realize what he is capable of.” From his teens into his 20s, Bruce became the quintessential anti-hero to the surf media. His brash attitude toward surfing matched his beautifully reckless style in the water. There wasn’t a wave Bruce wouldn’t go on, a tube to heavy for him to pull in, a section where he wouldn’t get lofty. It was Bruce’s world: big airs, big hacks, and big barrels. The surf world was addicted and eagerly awaited his arrival to the Tour the same way an 8-year-old yearns for Christmas morning. In 2004, the time came and Bruce had qualified at the elite level. Game on. Time to shake things up. But despite proving to the world that he could hold his own in the world of singlets and heat horns (Bruce holds victories at the Pipe Masters, the Eddie, and most recently, the Search Event in Indonesia), it never
really happened. Where were the fireworks that were promised? It seemed there was something missing from Bruce, or maybe more importantly, there was something missing in the Tour. It’s been said time and again that the judging on the ASP isn’t commensurate with the surfing. When three standard turns on a wave gets you through a heat and a massive hack or huge punt leaves you relegated to the loser’s round, something is amiss. The old-school approach to judging new-school surfing has affected every surfer wanting to progress the sport in the competitive arena. According to one-time ’CT Surfer Shea Lopez, “…there were times when I’d blow up a wave, pull off an air to layback snap to reverse, and get a 7. Later in the heat I’d do four standard turns and get an 8.5. I’m like, ‘What do you guys want?’ I’m watching from the judges’ tower and I’m freakin’ out. I’m watching someone do three floaters that anybody in the world could’ve done and get an 8. There’s no degree of difficulty. They rode the wave straight to the shoulder, did three floaters, and got an 8. I would’ve loved to have gone out and had to push my surfing to the limit to get my scores. When everyone has to do that, it’s great.” Lopez isn’t the only one sharing that
Photo: Baeseman
Photos: Tron
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Surfing and photography have progressed hand in hand practically since the beginning of the sport, the growing popularity of surfing coinciding with the pursuit of documenting the movement on celluloid. It could be argued that without those who wait patiently to capture the action, surfing would not be what it is today. Where would the sport be without pioneers Larry “Flame” Moore, Warren Bolster, Art Brewer and Ron Stoner, their unique perspective displayed on the pages of surf magazines? This creative medium has put a frame around amazing moments in time and focused our attention on a specific instant. The lens has brought awareness to the art of surfing, broadened our imaginations, shown where the bar is, and compelled us to raise it. So it comes as no surprise that when the waves are pumping on the North Shore, the shoreline is wall-to-wall photographers, lenses all pointing in the same direction. Myself being one of the many, I have been
asked some funny questions from tourists: “Is one of those guys out there Kelly Slater?” or the slightly less assumptive “Is this the Pipeline?” Ironically, I’ve been asked, “Aren’t you guys all getting the same photo?” Although that is one way to look at it, and yes, we may all be shooting the same moment in time from the land or water, it’s those slight changes in location and equipment that make a big difference. Visually, a photo of someone getting barreled at Backdoor shot with a wide-angle lens looks completely different than the same moment shot through a telephoto lens; pulled back, long lens, fish-eye and speed blur are all different ways a photographer approaches the wave. There’s plenty of artistic leeway and a good photographer seeks a unique perspective, one that reflects the feeling and freedom that the ocean and surfing lend us. Double take, déjà vu, multiple perspectives, call it what you will, but this gallery is proof that there’s always more than one point of view. —Tony Heff
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NEWS & FR EE SU
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[Team Wana Vixens]
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Photo: Campbell
[Duke]
WATERWOMEN The only triangles at this contest were bikini tops By Keli Campbell
Event: Tombomb Wahine Classic 2008 Location: Kohanaiki, Kona, Big Island Date: Saturday, September 13th Conditions: 3-foot What happens when surfer girls gather on the beach to protect the environment, foster team spirit in the waves and promote aloha throughout the surfing community? The braddahs can’t help but join in. The second Tombomb Wahine Classic (TWC) began innocent enough. Saturday proved to be a perfect day for a fun, team-oriented contest. The waves rolled in, consistently head-high and kissed with an offshore breeze. The Kona Kai Ea Surfrider Foundation set up a tent jam-packed with info and rubbish bags to promote reef protection and preservation at Kohanaiki, one of Kona’s most ‘ohana-oriented beaches. And Kona’s wahine surfers came down on the beach like a clean-up set, pumped from last year’s TWC, where they first learned contests can be fun. Unlike a typical surf competition, the TWC works on a team format, with each team made up of five different surfers. Each team surfs a heat consisting of an all-out expression session, scored on creativity, teamwork and surfing skill. Each individual surfer is judged on her three best waves and those scores are added up to create a collective team score. So, while in the water, the more waves shared, the better. This brought a diverse group of women to the beach, from keiki to kupuna. This year’s winning team, Ocean’s 13, boasted two bodyboarders, two longboarders and a shortboarder. One of their bodyboarders, Janis Silva, 60, won the Tombomb Spirit Award for bringing the most enthusiasm to the day. On the shortboard, one of Kona’s up-and-coming rippers, 15-year-old Kilihea Inaba, received the highest individual score throughout the entire competition. After seeing only 5 girls in clean, fun-sized surf and watching this year’s standout, nine-year-old stand-up paddler Kahanu Delovio, master the empty waves, the volunteers started to salivate.
Photo: Campbell
[Duke]
[Triangle Top Posse]
The impromptu creation of the Men’s Bikini Division added a comedic end to an already stellar event. The TWC aims to promote community spirit, so the guys deserved their part in the contest. But being a wahine event, the boys had to brave the dangers of surfing in tiny bikinis. In support of Kona’s wahine surfers, the braddahs suited up and paddled out for a 30-bikini-clad-man heat, with Sam Fenwick taking top honors for still ripping in a triangle top. The event’s success came from the entire Kona community coming together to promote women surfers, protect the beaches and preserve our waves. The team format proved effective in all arenas, even for our cross-dressing tough guys. [PAU] www.tombomb.net
TOMBOMB WAHINE CLASSIC 2008 RESULTS 1st PLACE : OCEAN’S 13 Kilihea Inaba Cathy Alvarez Janis Silva Tomi Peppler Joy De Young
2nd PLACE: SURFIN’ SISTAS Kahanu Delovio Victoria Trujillo Simmy McMichael Misty Marsh Renee Welzen
3rd PLACE: WANA VIXENS Ua Ruedy Twila Ashley Margaux Bailey Tien Austen Anne Ashford
MEN’S BIKINI DIVISION: 1. Samantha (Sam) Fenwick 2. Lollipop (Keola) Akao 3. Xena (Makai) McMichael
“LOOKS CUTEST IN A BIKINI” AWARD: Honey Girl Tavares (Mark Liberato)
BEST WAVE: Kahanu Delovio TOMBOMB SPIRIT AWARD: Janis Silva
Photo: Campbell
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of the event, followed up by a massive frontside air. He received 5000 Euro for his effort, the largest amount given to the first place winner in the contest’s nineyear history. Keanu Asing kept his competitive ball rolling through September with a win at the HSA Hard Rock Café Surf Series event at Kewalos. His goal now in the Hard Rock Cafe Surf Series at home is to qualify again for the ISA World Juniors and this time take it all the way to the winner's throne. Joe DeMarco, shaper of DeMarco Surfboards, hosted the first annual DeMarco Open at Turtle Bay Resort in August. Seven teams competed in the best ball scramble and a troop from Kaua‘i took top honors. DeMarco hopes to keep the ball rolling for charity. www.demarcosurf.com/ demarcoopen1 The NSSA Hawai‘i RVCA series saw the best waves of summer blast through the Lahaina Harbor surf break in early
Photo: Frieden
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September. Four- to eight-foot faces came through for some heavy right-handers on the south shore break as the fierce competition brought out bar level raising action. Maui veteran surfer and shaper Matt Kinoshita said, "The waves are as good as it gets. Not only good, but some of the biggest surf we have seen all summer long." Ian Gentil (7) won the Open Boys and Explorer Boys divisions and Tanner Hendrickson (8) scooped up Open and Explorer Mens divisions as well as the Explorer Juniors division. The first annual Save Makena Skim Competition with bodyboard division was held on August 23, 2008 on Maui. The main focus of the event was to spread awareness in the recreational community about access and over-development issues at Makena and in Hawai‘i. Savemakena.org [PAU]
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Barnes & Noble Locations: Arizona: Flagstaff, Phoenix, Scottsdale California: Aliso Viejo, Antioch, Bakersfield, Burbank, Calabasas, Colma, Costa Mesa, Emmeryville, Escondido, Fairfieldm, Glendale, Greenbrae, Huntington Beach, Irvine (13712 Jamboree Rd, 4600 Barranca
Parkway, 81 Fortune Drive Suite 123), Long Beach, Marina Del Rey, Merced, Mira Mesa, Newport Beach, Oakland, Oceanside, Orange, Redlands, Riverside, Roseville, San Diego (407 Horton Plaza, 8650 Genesee Suite 230, 128353 El Camino Rial, Hazard Center), San Jose, San Luis Obispo, Santa Monica, Santa Rosa, Stockton, Thousand Oaks, Torrance, Ventura Colorado: Boulder, Golden Delaware: Wilmington Florida: Boca Raton, Boynton Beach, Brandon, Daytona Beach, Fort Meyers, Jacksonville, Jensen Beach, Merritt Island, Miami, N. Miami Beach, Naples, Orlando (2418 East Colonial Drive, 481 N. Alafaya Trail), Palm Beach Gardens, S. Miami, St. Augustine, Wellington, West Palm Beach Hawai‘i: Honolulu Illinois: Bloomingdale, Chicago Indiana: Mishawaka Iowa: West Des Moines Maryland: Baltimore, Bethesda Massachussetts: Boston, Framingham, Holyoke, Hyannis New Hampshire: Salem New Jersey: Bricktown, Bridgewater, Clark, East Brunswick, Freehold, Holmdel, Marlton, Moorestown, West Long Branch New York: Brooklyn, Forest Hills, NYC (160 E. 54th St., 1972 Broadway, 33 East 17th St.), W. Nyack North Carolina: Durham, Fayetteville, Greensboro, Wilmington Ohio: Kenwood Oklahoma: Oklahoma City Oregon: Bend, Medford, Portland Pennsylvania: Easton, Philadelphia, Wyomissing Rhode Island: Smithfield South Carolina: Charleston, Mt. Pleasant, Myrtle Beach Texas: Austin, Charleston, Corpus Christi, Houston (2922 South Sheperd, 7626 Westheimer, 1960 West), Humble, Mt. Pleasant, Myrtle Beach, San Antonio, Webster Utah: Salt Lake City Virginia: Alexandria, Arlington, Chesapeake, Newport News, Virginia Beach Washington: Lynwood,Olympia, Seattle (2700 NE University Village, 600 Pine St. #107), Woodinville Washington DC: 3040 M Street Wisconsin: Madison Other bookstore locations: California: Capitola: Capitola Book Cafe Goleta, Borders Books & Music Davis: Borders Books & Music Dana Point: Killer Dana Surf Shop Hollywood: Stef-Jen Inc. Long Beach: Borders Books & Music Forrestville: Roasters Coffee Shop Laguna: Niguel Nalu's Grill, Thylia Street Laguna Beach, Laguna Sued N Sport Napa: Copperfields Irvine Nalu's Grill Petaluma: Copperfield Books San Clemente: Killer Dana Surf Shop, Pipes, Stewart Surfboards, Rip Curl San Rafael: Borders Books & Music San Diego: Paras Newsstand, El Toro San Mateo: Borders Books & Music Santa Rosa: Sawyer’s News Inc. Torrance: Borders Books & Music Windsor: Windsor News & Views Colorado: Aurora: Aurora Newsland Westminster: Westminster Newsstand Connecticut: New Haven: News Services LLC District of Columbia: One Stop News Georgia: Savannah: Home Run Video Illinois: Lisle: Book Nook News Westmont: Westmont Magazine & News Louisiana: Metairie: Lakeside News Maryland: Easton: Newscenter of Easton White Marlin: Newscenter White Marlin Massachusetts: New Bedford: Newsbreak New Hampshire: Manchester: Hudson News New Jersey: Columbus: Typo Books North Carolina: Charlotte: Newsstand International Sylva: Cope's Superette Newsstand Ohio: Columbus: Lane Ave Book Store Oregon: Portland: Powell's Bookstore Texas: Austin: AAA News Houston: Issues Magazine Store Washington: Seattle: Raps LLC SUBSCRIPTIONS are available online at www.freesurfmagazine.com
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