How to waste 14 minutes at work pg 28
3Reasons Hawai‘i Will Always Wear the Crown
The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing The Duke Lives Jamie O’Brien Photo: Baeseman
VOLUME 6 NUMBER 10
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FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM
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TRUE PERFORMANCE.” -YADIN NICOL
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HI RES
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Two rare sights on the North Shore in August: 5-foot Rockies and Kelly Slater.
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Photo: Baeseman
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Double Parked
Daniel Jones, painting the horizon with a touch of modern flare.
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Photo: Heff
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D A N N Y ALEX FORD
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KNOST
ARCHBOLD
F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
D A NI E L KA LA NI
JONE S D AVI D
F U L L E R D A NNY M A KUA
F U L L ER R O TH M A N
D I N O
A D R I A N
M ATT
A R C H B O L D
T H E
B A L A N C E RVCA . COM
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O P P O S I T E S
RVCA A N PQ . C O M
I NF O@RVCA . C O M
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Contents FSM V6#10
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28 KNOW YOUR SHAKES
HOW TO AVOID THOSE OH-SO AKWARD MOMENTS
36 BOUNTY OF PLENTY
WE EXPOSE THE SELDOM-SUNG PLAYERS OF THE VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING...NONE OF THEM ARE IN THE TOP 44
48 LIGHTNING STRIKES
THE BILLABONG ISA WORLD GAMES GETS ELECTRIC IN COSTA RICA
Joel Centeio, making us do a double-take. Photo: Heff
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SURF ALl DAY PLAY ALL NIGHT Model: Noelani Love
Photo: Willi
Contents FSM V6#10
8 FREE PARKING SLATER AND HIS SEASON OPENER 10 Double parked DANIEL JONES OUTSIDE OF THE BOX 20 COVER STORY JAMIE O’BRIEN 22 MASTHEAD 24 EDITOR’S NOTE WHAT WOULD DUKE DO? 26 FREE-TIME GALLERY EH HOWZIT! 28 INSIDE SECTION D rive Thru Australia // Tie a Leash String
30 WHATEVAS The Prince of Town, Jun Jo 58 SPOTLIGHT T yler Newton doesn’t much care for ticket agents or SUPs
60 NEWS & EVENTS T he Duke Fest ’09 //
hawaiimusicsupply.com
808.622.8000 18
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T&C Sunburn classic
66 FREE PLUGS 76 LAST LOOK MINING GOLD ON THE NORTH SHORE
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On the cover
Photo: Baeseman
We’re Tripping As we approach winter, there are a few things that will always stand out in our mind. Feathering Third-Reef Pipe, snaking lines at Ted’s and Jamie O’Brien. Every year, he continues to blow our collective minds with his mix of balance and progression. When Eric Baesman dropped this gem on our desktop, it went straight to the art director as a cover. In case you haven’t already noticed, this is our Vans Triple Crown issue and we’ve done our best to highlight the most overlooked players in the trifecta: the waves. To get the goods on our three favorite sisters, we had our own Beau Flemister recant each peak’s finer points and the special places they hold in the history of our sport. We’ve also revamped the Inside Section of the mag, chocking it full of random How To’s (what, you didn’t know how to tie your leash string?) and the ins and outs of the handshake (we’ve had one too many awkward moments and decided to standardize this whole greeting process thing once and for all). If that wasn’t enough, we’ve also interviewed two gents that you should get to know. First off, we talked to the King of Town, Jun Jo, to get his take on being one hip cat. Secondly, we hit up Town and Country’s Travis Hashimoto, a man you definitely want to know on a firstname basis the next time you order a board from T & C, to find out what running a quality surfboard-spewing factory is really all about. Turns out, it’s harder than it looks. In the back half of the book, we’ve highlighted the recent drama at surfing’s version of the Olympics, The Billabong ISA World Surfing Games in Costa Rica. From all accounts, it was a hell of a show with every team putting forth an effort that would make their countries proud. Here’s hoping that you enjoy the mag as much as we enjoyed making it. Until then, we’ll see you in the water.
On the Cover: Jamie O’Brien
Photo: Eric Baeseman
H armony SANDAL
TEAMRIDER
Toll Free: (800)443-5656 Flojos.com
Flojos@Flojos.com
Crystal “CJ” Soto
A product of Manulele, Inc. Volume 6 • Number 10 Publisher Mike Latronic
Editorial Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter
Free Thinkers Beau Flemister, Jack Kittinger, Siri Masterson, Noa Myers, Manny Pangilinan, Tom Stone
Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock
Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Mark Berkowitz, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Darin Crawford, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Damea Dorsey, Willi Edwards, Brandon Ells, Beau Flemister, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Kirby Fukunaga, Ryan Gamma, Gordinho, Chris Hagan, John Helper, Jon Huberman, Rick Hurst, Buzzy Kerbox, Danny Kim, Kin Kimoto, Peter King, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Christian Peralta, Steve Robertson, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Paul Teruya, Kevin Whitton, Jimmy Wilson
Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson
Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURFon the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.
EDITOR'S NOTE
WWDD? A funny thing happened to me a few month’s back. While in Tahiti, covering the ’CT stop at Teahupoo, one of my assignments was to gather some insight into whom the world’s top surfers felt were their greatest influences. I talked to many a pro, received some varied and interesting answers, but the one name that seemed to percolate from the mouth of the elite time and again was none other than Duke Kahanamoku. At first, I didn’t think too much of it—the man most credited with spreading the collective love of our sport to the rest of the world; what’s not to like? But then, after the eighth or ninth surfer listed the old legend as the key component to their aquatic dream team, I couldn’t shake the fact that Duke’s presence in surfing remains ubiquitous today, even 30 years after his passing. What is it that made Duke so unique and revered by surfers? Indeed, he forged the path to the sport’s rise in popularity, but so did Walter Camp, the father of American football, and you’d be hard pressed to see any NFL players list Camp as their greatest influence. After a few restless nights of contemplating Duke’s seemingly unwavering legacy, I thought I might have figured it out. Yes, Duke is the figure that the majority of us recognize as being the father of modern surfing, but it wasn’t necessarily his sojourn into Sydney’s Freshwater Beach in 1914 that effectively introduced the Hawaiian Sport of Kings to the Australia populace. Nor was it his stint in California, where he helped legitimatize the sport to the US Mainland. It was the way that he accomplished all of his monumental feats that keeps him influential today. Simply put, Duke did it with Aloha. That telltale smile that helped fearful beachgoers take to the water for the first time, the down-home confidence and ease that made any and all melt before him—that’s Duke’s legacy, the spirit of Aloha. As winter begins to rear its head and the surf industry begins their annual takeover of the North Shore, it’s easy for us to get frustrated over the saturated lineups, the blood-boiling traffic and the endless lines at Foodland. So here’s my proposition to you for this winter: The next time you feel your fist clinch and your jaw tighten over the traffic at Lanis or the pockmarked lineup at Rockys take a deep breath, and ask yourself one simple question: “What would Duke do?” Here’s to following in the footsteps of a legend and doing the right thing. —Jeff Mull
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All Photos: Heff
1 Behind that beard is yet another longboard.
5 Ken Bradshaw, more of a man than you.
2 Marty Thomas, the new Randy Rarick.
6 Tony Silvagni, jetsetting between Costa Rica and Hawai’i.
3 Red you’re late for your heat. Checking in with beach marshall Jason Shibata.
7 Kelia Moniz, queen of Queens. 8 Shakas to da max, brah!
4 Announcers Skill and Rocky. 9 Playing to a board audience.
EH HOWZIt!
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inside section
How To take a beating
4 Surf Videos You Just Gotta Watch On YouTube 1. J ordy Smith’s Mentawai Rodeo. By all accounts, one of the sickest punts captured on film. (Keyword Search: Jordy Smith Rodeo) 2. Hitler’s Surf Trip Ruined! Who knew the Fuhrer had such a temper? (Keyword Search: Hitler Surf) 3. Boat Trippin’: Nope, it’s not in Indo, but this freshwater left will have you salivating. (Keyword Search: River Surfing) 4. In Hynd Sight: Finless Surfing at its best. (Keyword Search: Derek Hynd, finless)
We’ve all been there before. That moment when things go from bad to worse in a hurry. Where a good line turns into going over the handlebars. With winter on the horizon, here’re three tips to help you survive your next beating: Get Small: You’re a hell of a lot more likely to take a chunk out of your body if you’re spazzing out underwater when things turn sour. Your best bet is to get small, curl up in a ball and cover your head with both hands. That way, you’re lessening the chance that the reef will claim your scalp. Penetrate: If you can tell that things might squirrelly, you want to try and get as deep as you can when you hit the surface. If you land too shallow, there’s a damn fine chance you’re going over the falls. It aint That Bad: Even if it is, keep telling yourself that. For most of us, it may feel like an eternity getting bounced around underwater, but in reality, it’s most likely just a few seconds. Stay calm no matter how bad the situation may be.
Photo: Baeseman
The new standard? The next time you find yourself waking up naked and hungover at a hotel pool, (c’mon, who hasn’t been there…) you might just be in luck. Thanks to the ever-versatile marketing department at Quiksilver, you can now purchase limited-edition surf trunks poolside through a boardshort-dispensing vending machine at all four of The Standard Hotels in the US Mainland, including Downtown LA, Hollywood, NYC and Miami. To boot, each pair of trunks comes with a map of the swankiest places to eat, the best bars to have a drink, and the local hotspots that have a history of raging. Here’s hoping that The Standard will extend to Honolulu.
FREESURF Magazine Winter ’09 Predictions: Jamie O’Brien will win the Pipe bodyboard event going drop-knee // ... ... 28
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Jun Jo Shall Proceed By Beau Flemister Anyone that religiously followed the major surf mags throughout the ’90s has seen more than few action shots of Jun Jo. The low center of gravity, the fast, explosive turns, the parked-car-stalling at Backdoor. From the celluloid, Jo rubs you like another ultra-talented local pro surfer. But as the adage goes, there’s more to people than meets the eye. Simply put, Jun is different. He’s always chosen the different path. Born in Japan to a Japanese-national father and Caucasian Bronx-born mom, Jun moved to O’ahu at 5 years old. He grew up in various towns all over the island, but considers Kailua his hometown. Taken under the wing by legendary Japanese pro surfer Shuji Kasuya and the fact that Jun bears dual citizenship, at 17, Jun moved to Japan and dominated the JPSA (Japan’s pro tour). He even won two national titles. Like many a fast-life prodigy, by the time he was 22, he was singed on pro surfing and left it behind. “I went to Europe, and it was my first trip abroad without a surfboard. But it was great. I got a Euro-rail pass and just went from city to city—a month in Spain, a couple in France, and so on. It really opened my eyes; just to see how much bigger the world is outside of surfing. You see people with so many different styles…different lifestyles. It made the surfing world of sponsors
and stickers look so small and boxy to me.” This would make sense coming from a guy who had always ridden for teams with a more avant-garde feel to them like Volcom, Alpha Numeric and Zoo York. So Jun and four close friends—Rhandy, Todd, Ryan and Keith—decided to open a clothing store nearly a decade ago representing the eclectic mix of varying lifestyles. They called it In4mation, a boutiqueish shop that to this day is notoriously cool and known for carrying fashions, music and accessories of the alternative caliber. “So many kids and even adults get too comfortable in the surfing world to take a chance. Some are just afraid to do something different. But it’s a little shocking to see kids at like 10 years old wanting to be pro, not going to school, with no other vision, thinking that surfing will always sustain them. There are maybe like five guys in the world who don’t have to work another job. A lot of kids don’t understand this. Surfing is great, keep surfing, but also be open to new things, stay aware of all the options around you.” Always smiling, always innovative and hustling, Jun embodies the spirit of the uncommon surfer. Yes, he still rips, but he uniquely represents how to walk and thrive on a more cultured, broader plane. And as the In4mation motto goes he “shall proceed…and continue.”
Big-wave SUP surfing will take root at Jaws and spread throughout the world like a plague // Through a growing ... ... ... 30
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Photo: Rockv
Whatevas
PHOTOS BY: Kanoa Dahlin
www.honoluasurf.com
Maui
Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea Paia
Big Island
Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa
Oahu
Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Pearlridge Center Aloha Tower Marketplace Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani Royal Hawaiian Center
Kauai
Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove
inside section
Shake it Off Rating 3 out of 5 shakas
The Drive Thru crew is back again and this time they’re heading back Down Under for their ninth installment in the surf-reality series. Along for the ride are Andy, Shane, Pat O, Benji, Donavon and the always-classic Occy. Exploring both coasts of the surf-rich continent of Australia, in and out of the water these guys are always making it a good time. Heading first to the far side of Australia, the jumpsuit-clad clan of legends and characters meet up with local Taj Burrow near his West Oz abode. During their maiden session with Taj, the wind is howling but swell is in the water and the crew tackles some chunky overhead grinders before being chased in by some not-so-friendly sea life. With the first week’s conditions not quite up to snuff, the boys end up “regressing to grom state where you just go out, no matter what,” as Andy puts it. The results of going pubescent leads to a few good rides mixed in with some hilarious miscalculated attempts. The second half of the trip sees the group hop over to the Gold Coast with a special guest appearance by Occy’s son, 6-year-old Jay Occhilupo. The caravan then lucks into some gold with Australian man of the hour, Joel Parkinson. Other East Coast adventures include the Occy Challenge (impromptu heats on Occy’s 1986 OP Pro winning Rusty), skydiving and attending a Rugby League game. While not necessarily the best choice for your pre-session amp-up, this video offers a humorous look into the sites, people and good times that go down on a road trip adventure. Serving up a rounded selection of music matching the footage and storyline quite nicely, definitely give Drive Thru Australia a watch if you want to get inspired to take a trip with your bros. —Tyler Rock
Know Your Leash String
Forget SUPs or towing into 10-foot waves, the lack of standardization in the realm of handshakes is one of our sport’s greatest pitfalls. We’ve all been there before, that unsightly moment where a handshake with another surfer from a far-flung location gets damn awkward in a hurry. You go for the Slip N Grip and he goes for the Pound. Worlds collide, a woman screams and you’re left with a fumbled greeting. With that in mind, we sat out to formulate and educate the general public on the different variations of the shake.
The Slip N Grip (Hawai‘i)
The Pound (West Coast)
Take the string in two hands and check the length. You don’t want it too long or it will cut through the tail on your first big wipeout. Double the string over itself. Wrap one end of your doubled string around your finger, creating a loop. Take the other end of the string and place it through the loop you just created. Pull tight.
The Snap (East Coast)
Place the folded end through the leash plug and loop one end through the other and tighten. Rico Illustrations
Voila! You have yourself an A-grade leash string. Now go surf.
The Deal Maker (Midwest)
fear of Swine Flu, all Asia-based surfers will don surgical masks in the lineup // Bones will be broken // 32
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Photo: Bill Taylor
Bounty Of Plenty
Come November of every year, the
North Shore
Photo: Kirstin Scholtz
is the place to be, the center of the surf world, ground zero for any and all happenings. Everyone from the lowliest sponsored grom to the bigwig industry CEO packs their bags and heads to Hawaii when autumn fades to winter. And although it’s true that in recent years we’ve ventured out further into the abyss, finding far-flung perfection and stomachturning tubes in the most wayward of locales, in the end we keep coming back to the North Shore and her bounty of plenty. Even if we wanted to, we couldn’t quit her. With her front-lit photo-studio lighting, jaw-dropping peaks and crowd-accommodating amphitheater, Hawaii continues to be the place for the industry to get business done. With nearly five decades of history, making the trek to Hawaii in the winter is as embedded in our consciousness as checking the buoys. Highlighting the winter every year is the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. It’s something that local surfers and foreigners alike froth upon all summer—putting on that singlet and proving your worth in Hawaii’s legendary man-eating conditions. Simply put, surfing in the Vans Triple Crown of Suring is a test of mettle and a badge of honor to anyone with the moxie to complete the trifecta. Every stop, from Haleiwa, with her throaty barrels and mud tones; to Sunset with her shoulder-burning and ego-shattering reputation; to Pipe, well, we all know about Pipe and how she operates, is in and of itself an icon in our sport. In the following pages, we’re paying homage to the majestic and sometimes frightening waves of the Triple Crown. We hope you enjoy.
Photo: Heff
clockwise from left: 2001 Pipe Master Bruce Irons, 6X Vans Triple Crown Winner Sunny Garcia, Multiple VTC winner Kelly Slater, Reining VTC Champ Joel Parkinson.
Photo: Sean Rowland
ONE COLOR VERSION
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Hale‘i 36
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iwa
Reef Hawaiian Pro // Vans Hawaiian Pro November 12-23
Photo: Vince Street
Photo: Vince Street
The most underestimated of the three Triple Crown jewels, yet many times the most contestable, Hale’iwa refuses to be overlooked. If anything, the wave is perpetually underrated. But to local surfers who perennially respect the spot’s many moods, this could be considered a good thing. First surfed consistently by full-blooded Hawaiian Soloman Kukea in the 1920s, it was later made more popular on film by local boy Henry Preece and Californian Greg Noll. Since then, many a contest has been held at this punchy right reef break. And Hawaiian-born surfers, for the most part, have historically dominated the event. Like Pipe, even Hale’iwa has a devoted following. O’ahu pros Fred Patacchia, Sean Moody, Joel Centeio and other undergrounders have cut their teeth as grommets on the wave. As men, this crop of Hawai‘i’s best continue to enjoy the siren’s call.
Favoring west-angled swells over anything, the ideal Hale’iwa is that 6- to 8-foot scooping bowl pushing in from the Puena corner, barreling across the beach park, all before imploding at the shallow reef patch infamasouly dubbed the Toilet Bowl. A good ride from this angle might give you a tube and up to four clean turns. At its most ferocious on a fickle north swell, Hale’iwa does a wicked impression of Sunset standing with less channel and remaining even more unpredictable. At its most cooperative—think about last years Triple Crown—medium-sized Hale’iwa can look like a pristine Lower Trestles. Just keep a sniper’s eye for the buoy dancing on the horizon because when she bobs, you gotta weave.
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Three Truths with Randy Rarick
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Executive Director of The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing
Photo: Bruno Lemos
“In my mind, the most memorable time for the Vans Triple Crown was in the late ’80s and early ’90s. You had all of the guys, the Derek and Michael Ho’s and Gary Elkertons of the day, all just going for it. And that was when Sunset was really the place to surf.” On his most memorable Triple Crown years. “I’ve been doing the Triple Crown since it started. That was nearly 27 years ago. And yeah, I think I’ve got a few more years in me.” When asked if he would continue his roll as the event’s director in the coming years.
Photo: Heff
“I’ve got a few things in the works to help promote the Vans Triple Crown in the next few years to make it even bigger and better. We’re also doing some other things that I think a lot of the local surfers will get pretty excited about.” On the future of the Triple Crown.
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS VTCOS09
November 12-23
Reef Hawaiian Pro (men's) Vans Hawaiian Pro (women's)
Surfing competition. Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park. The first leg of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.
November 14
Surfrider Foundation, John Kelly Environmental Awards Dinner & Party
Waimea Valley. 7pm
November 20
Rell Sunn Aloha Jam Waimea Valley
HAWAIIAN
PRO 2009
HALEIWA / ASP 6 STAR PRIME WQS / NOVEMBER 12-24 / LIVE WEBCAST AT REEF.COM
November 21
Wyland Galleries Vans Triple Crown Surf Art Show. Wyland Gallery Haleiwa 6PM
November 24-December 6
O'Neill World Cup of Surfing (men's) Gidget Pro (women's)
Surfing competition. Sunset Beach. The second leg of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.
December 3
Opening Ceremony
25th Anniversary Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau. 3pm Waimea Bay Beach Park
December 4
Surf Night
Sunset Beach Elementary School. 5pm
Dec. 8-20
Billabong Pipeline Masters (men's) Billabong Pro Maui (women's)
Surfing competition. Men's is staged at Pipeline, Oahu, and the women’s event is held at Honolua Bay, Maui. The third and final leg of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, and the final stop on the ASP World Tour for 2009.
December 12
Billabong Lifeguard Party Waimea Valley
Photo: Floyd Takeuchi
H o n o l u a
Billabong Pro Maui // December 8-20
Honolua. Just the thought of its peeling, unfiltered rights makes us salivate. Hands down, Maui possesses one of the most beautiful aquatic gems in Hawaii, and if you ask us, it’s only fitting that the ladies get to tame her. Year in and year out, we marvel at her open walls and throaty tubes. Our legs ache at the thought of gliding down her hundred-yard walls. Normally stacked to the gills when the northerlies breathe life into the bay, the lucky women of the CT surf it nearly alone for the Billabong Pro Maui. Nestled against the lush countryside, Honolua appears like it could have come straight from the pages of Mutiny on the Bounty. With breathtaking, verdant bluffs leading into the crystal waters, the natural landscape provides the perfect vantage point for spectators and event officials to watch the event unfold. As the only Tour stop to post up outside of the Gathering Isle, the Billabong Pro Maui emphasis to the rest of the world that there is indeed more to Hawaii than the Seven-Mile Miracle.
Photo: Epes
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Sunse The O’neill World Cup of Surfing // Gidget Pro November 24-December 6
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Photo: Rock
et
Said surf journalist Drew Kampion of the wave, “Sunset Beach is the standard by which other waves are measured, and the best surfers here are the best surfers, period.” Back in 1980, when this was said, it was true. Although over the course of the past two decades the spotlight has shifted over to shorter, more explosive and hollow waves like Off the Wall and Pipeline, Sunset remains an unequaled arena. Nowhere else on Earth can a surfer with a death wish pull out their 8-foot gun, take a Munga Barry elevator drop down the peak of a 12-foot beast, bottom turn, and slingshot into the angry inside bowl and be vomited onto the shoulder. This is the Sunset experience, an experience unlike anything else. Known to pre-modern Hawaiians as Paumalu, rediscovered in 1939 by the likes of John Kelly, made famous in the ’40s by George Downing and ridden to perfection in the ’80s by Michael Ho, Sunset has always been the place to test a surfer’s endurance and skill. Predictably unpredictable, at 8 feet, you will get put in a sticky, bail-your-board situation at least once in a session. And when it comes to the Vans Triple Crown, the World Cup of Surfing never fails to max out in size at least for one day of the waiting period, forcing pro surfers to truly push their boundaries on a competitive level. You can paddle out at big Sunset a boy, but you will return a man.
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Pipelin Billabong Pipeline Masters //
December 8-20
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Photo: Heff
ne
She is at once the world’s most famous, deadliest and argueably steepest wave; she is the closing act to the ASP World Tour, the pinnacle of performance surfing, the barrel of your life. She is Pipeline and she means business. Yes, there are impersonaters—waves that have been discovered over the years that resemble, if not give Pipe’s reputation a run for the money—but at the end of the year, you always return to Pipe. Even Mr. Cool himself, Gerry Lopez, admitted, “You’re always right on the edge at Pipeline. You’re always hanging by your fingertips; you never really have it under control. But I guess that’s the appeal of the place.” When it comes to the Vans Triple Crown, specifically the Billabong Pipeline Masters, the show here is on par with any major sports event in the world. The Super Bowl, The World Cup, The World Series, The Masters. Pipeline becomes the stage that has spurred countless supernatural battles. Carrol vs. Curren; Carrol vs. Ho; Slater vs. Machado; Irons vs. Slater. To win the Pipeline Masters, regardless of accumulated ASP points, is to win the most accomplished surfing competition in the world. Period.
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Lightning USA Dominates The Billabong ISA World Games in Costa Rica
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Carlos Munoz.
Photo: Fabian Sanchez
The unique format brought the national pride and overall competitiveness that had been simmering to a roaring boil.�
g Strikes Team USA.
Photo: Billy Watts
It was a fitting finale to an event steeped in a mix of camaraderie and cutthroat competition as Team USA claimed the overall gold medal over Team France at the Billabong ISA Games fueled by Monster Energy in Costa Rica. It was the first time that the Americans have won an overall gold medal in 13 years despite being one of the sport’s biggest powerhouses. Team Hawaii, led by Coach Rainos Hayes, put up a valiant effort but unfortunately finished the event with a fourth-place medal. From the opening heats of the games at Playa Hermosa, the Americans appeared razor sharp and sublimely focused as they competed against the 36 other squads vying for a spot on the podium come event’s end. With the final day of competition looming overhead, Team USA stood tall and was able to place five team members into each of the three finals and looked to be the team to beat. Hot on the USA’s heels, the French team, led by ASP
World Tour surfer Jeremy Flores, also looked to be in stellar form throughout the entire contest and the Frenchies managed to put a single surfer in the Open division, the Women’s division, and the Longboard division. The Hawaiian congregation, although in supreme form, had a difficult time advancing through the later rounds. But judging by the way that Maui Boy Hank Gaskell and the rest of the Hawaiians were surfing, you can rest assured that next year, if the chips fall their way, they will be standing victorious on the podium. Kick-starting the final day of the contest was the Aloha Cup. Run as a team event with four surfers from each team taking turns competing in the hour-long final, the unique format brought the national pride and overall
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“
The level of surfing showcased just how technically advanced surfing has become.”
competitiveness that had been simmering to a roaring boil. Historically one of the strongest teams in the events, last year’s overall event winner, Team Australia, took the lead in the Aloha Cup at the outstart of the heat and managed to hold on to it despite a strong showing from the French team. It was a bittersweet moment for the Aussies as the team dramatically failed to materialize in the way that they have done in the past throughout the rest of the competition and it would be the only gold medal for the Australians. Following the Aloha Cup, the Longboard finalists took to the tepid 4-foot Costa Rican lineup and put on a tremendous show. The final, composed of an American, a Frenchman, an Australian, and British surfer, brought the crowd of thousands of fans that swarmed the beach to their feet by blending old-world noserides and iconic style with modern high-speed turns and speed floats. In the end, France’s Antoine Delpero came out on top as he narrowly edged out Aussie surfer Harley Ingleby with a two-wave combined score of 15.50 points. “I feel unreal…I’m so happy that jus I can’t say a word,” said a beaming and visibly shaken Delpero following his win. “This is so cool for me and Team France.” In the women’s final, 16-year-old American Courtney Conlogue was surfing on a higher plane as she dismantled her competition with a determined backhand attack on the lefts that earned her a slew of 8- and 7-point rides along with a gold medal. Heading into the ISA Games, Conlogue was coming off a monumental victory at the US Open of Surfing in Huntington Beach, CA. Judging from her recent competitive dominance, Conlogue has proven that she will be a formidable figure in the sport for years to come. With her face partially shaded behind a pair of aviator sunglasses, Conlogue remained poised and stoic following her gold medal win. “To be surfing in front of all these people is amazing. It’s been such a great event. To be in the final I had to put it all on the line,” she said through a drawn-out California accent. “The conditions were really good out there…it’s just really been such a fun journey so far.” Highlighting the final day’s action was the Open final. Comprised of two Americans—Floridian Cory Lopez and North Carolina native Ben Bourgeois—a Gilbert Brown. Photo Sanchez Roy Powers Photo Latronic mid right: Ben Bourgeois Photo Watts bottom left: Team Hawai‘i Photo Latronic bottom right: Alessa Quizon Photo Latronic top right:
middle left:
Photo: Watts
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Peruvian and a Frenchmen, the level of surfing in the men’s final showcased just how technically advanced surfing has become throughout the world. Opening up the heat with a barrage of mind-numbing turns was American Cory Lopez. Throughout the games, Lopez looked extremely relaxed and confident— a dangerous mix in the game of competitive surfing. But despite Lopez’s stellar rail work and progressive turns, France’s Jeremy Flores was the man to beat throughout the event. Surfing like a man possessed, Flores seemed untouchable throughout the games, putting his trademark low center of gravity style and lightning fast turns to good work in the final, earning him a pair of 8-point rides that the other competitors couldn’t touch and Flores would go on to win the gold medal. Following his win, Flores appeared proud and confident as he reflected on the impact of bringing home a gold medal. “I haven’t won too many contests, I’ve always done well, but I hardly ever seem to win. For me this is huge. This was more than a victory for me. I never win anything…I can’t believe I just won. This is just crazy.”
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Photo: Watts.
Courtney Conlogue. Photo Latronic. Hank Gaskell. Event perks. Photo Sanchez. Joel Centeio. Photo Sanchez. Kekoa
Uemura.
Photo Heff.
Clockwise from left:
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“
For me this is huge. This was more than a victory for me. I never win anything…I can’t believe I just won. This is just crazy.”
Jeremy Flores.
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Photo Latronic
Jeremy Flores.
Photo Latronic
Cory Lopez.
Photo Latronic
Bonga Perkins.
Photo Latronic
Mick Campbell.
Photo Latronic
waves " Off the wall " oil on canvas
Tahiti & Hawaii
Nicolas Caubarrere Art North Shore Paintings phone : +1 808.638.9668
www.NicolasCaubarrere.com
Antoine Delpero.
Photo Sanchez
Gabriel Mendez.
Photo Sanchez
medals: Team GOLD: United States – 14910 pts. SILVER: France – 13280 pts. BRONZE: Australia - 10996 pts. COPPER: Hawaii – 10856 pts.
Women Gold: Courtney Conlogue (USA) Silver: Rosanne Hodge (RSA) Copper: Sage Erickson (USA) Bronze: Pauline Ado (FRA)
Open Gold: Jeremy Flores (FRA) Silver: Cory Lopez (USA) Bronze: Gabriel Villarán (PER) Copper: Ben Bourgeois (USA)
Longboard Gold: Antoine Delpero (FRA) Silver: Harley Ingleby (AUS) Copper: Ben Skinner (GBR) Bronze: Tony Silvagni (USA)
Photo Latronic
Winner Courtney Conlogue. Photo Sanchez
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Spotlight
n tylEr w T o n
It’s a question for the ages: What, exactly, is going on in the mind of today’s youth? Is it sex and barrels, or singlets and bibles…we’re just dying to know. Following in the footsteps of psychology (it’s a stretch, we know) we gave Kauai’s Tyler Newton one word and asked him to list whatever comes to mind. The results were telling, if not a tad bit frightening.
Photo: Baeseman
Ride: Big waves and angry barrels Sounds: Essential for the mind Training: Gotta love it Film: Surfing Words: In my mouth Girls: My girlfriend, Paige SUPs: Cheating wavehogs Retro: Effing horrible California: Sucks Starbucks: Coffee stomach Ticket Agents: Pricks Third-World Illness: Swine flu Slater: God
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The Duk News & Events
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ke Lives The Duke Fest pays homage to a legend
Like a morning mist settling upon a dewy Northwestern lake, hundreds of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most enthusiastic and adept waterman congregated at the birthplace of surfing in Waikiki to pay homage and compete in the shadow of one of Hawaiiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest athletes and surfers, Duke Kahanamoku.
Nelson Ahina III resembling the Duke in more ways than one.
Photo: Heff
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News & Events
Brian Keaulana and Kathy Tereada
Duane Desoto
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Photo: Baeseman
Photo: Heff
F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M
Joy Monahan
Photo: Heff
Kelia Moniz dancing her way to 1st place at the Gidget Pro.
F
or those of you not up to snuff on your surf lore, Kahanamoku was born in the late 19th century and was reared as a Waikiki beachboy on the island of Oahu. As fast as fish grease, Kahanamoku was unstoppable as a swimmer where he turned heads time and again as a youth, eventually earning himself five Olympic medals (three gold, two silver). But it would be his contributions to the sport of surfing, spreading the ancient Hawaiian practice of dancing on the sea, to the rest of the world that would earn him the admiration of many and more than a few pages in the history books. With that in mind, every year, watermen from across the globe descend on Waikiki to surf, swim, and play in the waters that once matriculated the Hawaiian legend. It’s an event that is anticipated by everyone from the old legends like Rabbit Kekai to the youngest Honolulu
Photo: Heff
street grom. Plain and simple, it’s about enjoying the ocean and all that it offers. Literally poised underneath the outstretched and bronze-coated statue of a welcoming and lei-shrouded Kahanamoku, the Ocean fest ran through the weekend in fun-but-small surf at Queens. Playing host to a sun-drenched and shoulder-burning week of games that ranged from Surf Water Polo (quite possibly the world’s finest game) to a Tandem event to a jaw-dropping and technical Longboard final, the games managed to outdo the staggering amount of success that they have garnered in years past. Recession or not, when it comes to paying tribute to a legend by engaging in his favorite pastimes, it’s damn-near impossible to not have a successful event and enjoy yourself. Huge mahalos to everyone who came out and supported the memory of one of our sport’s most cherished characters.
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News & Events
Roasted
The t&C sunburn classic Hits the streets
Kalani David.
Photo: Heff
A‘ala skatepark has been the beacon of the Town skate scene for decades, playing host to more flips, grinds, and varials than any of us can recall. Running with that history, Town and Country threw their 16th anuual Sunburn Classic. With the help of LRG, local skaters were treated to the likes of Adelmo Jr., Jack Curtain and Rodrigo Tx putting on an expression session for the Hawaii conitengency. As the longest running amateur skate event in Honolulu, the Sunburn Classic saw some of Hawaii’s best skaters duke it out at the park when the comp started. Everyone was killing it, but at the end of the day, the boys from Prototype had a stranglehold on the rest of competition and came away with a whole mess of street cred.
Results: 13 years-younger—1st place Dillon Kugle 45. 2nd place Kalani David 43. 3rd place Gabriell Gaigan 38. 4th place Joe Bird 33. 5th place Christian Toves 30. Ages 14-17—1st place Lionel Deguzman 50. 2nd place Jared Tomi 45. 3rd place Jordan Broceras 36. 4th place Tyler Maratta 20. 5th place Justin Zorn 16. 18-older—1st place Jason Park 55. 2nd place Mikey Albert 54. 3rd place Yohei Miyazaura 37. 4th place Todd Dunlop 35. 5th place Grant McCartney 30. Sponsored—1st place Larry Upchurch 50.5. 2nd place Bronson Sterling 49. 3rd place Brian Wyland 43. 4th place Shota Kubo 39. 5th place Brandon Kays 38.5.
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Photo: Courtesy Nike 6.0
Located in Waimea Valley, our grill is dedicated to bringing you farm fresh produce and local products. Our Catering Department Specializes in Private Events, Weddings, Banquets, Fundraisers, and Mixers.
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Malia Manuel
Photo: Courtesy Nike 6.0
Catering to at-risk teens, Nike 6.0 partnered up with Stoked Mentoring to help show inner-city kids the benefits of the life aquatic. Twenty LA kids, aged 14 to 18, took part in the program where surf-industry insiders took them surfing and showed them just what a driving force surfing, and in many cases art in itself, can be in redirecting your life to a positive course. “It has been an absolute pleasure working with Nike 6.0 and the Motel No Tell (1) crew! Stoked LA’s surf program completely exceeded all expectations. Surfing new beaches, becoming part of a larger surf community, and all of the amazing workshops gave our kids a unique opportunity to explore themselves in the greater context of the action sports lifestyle. Our teens, mentors and volunteers were all blown away by this incredible experience.” Said Phoebe Brauer, Program Manager Stoked Mentoring, Los Angeles. It is with a somber tone that we regrettably report the passing of one of the Big Island’s most cherished sons, Delta Thompson, who died this past August after succumbing to lung cancer. He was 38. As a figurehead and cofounder of Big Island based company FBI, Delta helped spearhead the recent rise of Big Island surfers onto the world scene. Forever cordial, Delta became a friend to all he met. Although he was regarded for his prowess in the water, it’s been said that his greatest legacy will be the positive roll he played in mentoring the Big Island’s youth. He will be missed.
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2 Still Filthy It’s been reported that Hawaii-born actress Tia Carrere will be playing the role of the late Rell Sunn for the upcoming film, Wave Dancer. The film, directed by Martha Coolidge, is set to be a biopic about Sunn, the Queen of Makaha. Carrere, who also has a substantial career as a musician, has appeared in such films as Wayne’s World and Lilo and Stitch. On the heels of the cult classic 1980s surf flick, Filthy Habits, the folks at Billabong are releasing the film’s sequel, Still Filthy (2), this October. The film includes the entire stable of Bong’s collective A-team throwing down some A-grade footage, all set to a fast-paced and frothy soundtrack. The film recently took top honors at the Surfer Poll and Video Awards where it won for film of the year. Just when you thought it was safe to leave a painting valued at hundreds of thousands of dollars unguarded in Waikiki, someone goes and steals it straight from showroom floor in broad sight. Recently, the folks at Wyland Art Gallery (3) in Waikiki lived this nightmare when Wyland’s “Dolphin Dawn” painting, valued at $700,000 was swiped. In response, Wyland offered up a $2,000 cash reward or another painting valued at $11,000 for the return of the stolen painting. This story actually comes with a happy ending as the painting was recovered in Chinatown. Details on the development are being withheld pending an investigation by HPD. As of September, the best place to get your ebb and flow on now has FREESURF covered as well. That’s right, Wahi‘awa’s Hawaii Music Supply will now be distributing FREESURF Magazine, so while you’re there, pick up a copy of the mag and check out the store. Shoots.
spaghettini
6/9/06
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4 Fred Patacchia
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The North Shore’s own Freddy Patacchia (4) played host at the latest Surfer Poll in California to a crowd of thousands. Held during the Hurley Pro at Trestles, it’s never easy to be the life of the party with a big heat the next morning, but such is the plight of the pro surfer. Word on the street is that Freddy P. made a damn fine host and cleans up real nice. Sadly, Jeff Johnson, one of the pioneering, modern-day watermen of the North Shore, lost his battle with cancer on August 17. Johnson was a staple in starting the Grass Roots "Keep the North Shore Country" movement and will always be remembered.
Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re to live for
hawaii 74-5483 Kaiwi St. Big Island, Hawaii 808-329-3335
66-560 Kam Hwy Haleiwa, HawAii 808-637-4573
Pau hana
The Man Behind Your Next Board By Jeff Mull
It’s a sleepy Tuesday in Wahiawa at the T&C factory. The grinding sound of planers and the omnipresent guitar rifts bellowing from a foam-dusted radio in the shaping bay are strangely silent. The factory is nearly empty today save for one man, Travis Hashimoto, who is holding down the fort all by his lonesome. T&C’s master craftsman, Glenn Pang, is off chasing tubes in Fiji for the week. It’s a much-needed break for the shaping veteran. But rest assured, the factory was left in good hands with Hashimoto, who’s become as vital a part of the company as their unforgettable yin and yang logo. Born and raised in Ewa Beach, Hashimoto, 31, first fell head over heels for surfing as a yearling, taking pointers from his father and honing his act amid Ewa’s beachbreaks. With a natural talent flowing through his veins, Hashimoto began climbing the amateur ranks and at 16 was placed on the T&C team roster with a sponsorship deal. It was the beginning of a fruitful career that continues for Hashimoto today, as he now acts as the shop manager for the factory. To be blunt: If you want to order a board from the factory, you want to talk to him. “I’ve been working here at the factory for about 10 years now, side-by-side with Glenn [Pang]. And I love working here,” says Hashimoto. “We’re all really good friends and after work, sometimes we will go out for beers and just cruise.” That’s not to say that it’s all suds and story talking for the boys at the factory. As summer winds down and the Aleutians begin churning out northerlies, the factory kicks into high gear, churning out hundreds of boards for winter, with Hashimoto taking on the role of ringmaster. “Yeah, right before winter, things get pretty crazy over here. It gets pretty nuts. The team guys are always putting in their orders late,” says Hashimoto with a laugh. “There were a few 15-hour workdays in the past for sure. Some days I would be cutting boards at 8 am and working in the office until past 10 at night.” But for Hashimoto, the long days covered in foam dust and the ever-mounting list of board orders are worth it. It’s a labor of love. With a colorful history as a team-rider-turned-factory manager, working for T&C has become a part of his life, a life he’s proud of and a life he can’t imagine being any better.
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Photo: Heff
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distribution
INDOBOARD Balance Trainers are available at: Aloha Board Shop Hawaiian Island Creations ■ Hawaiian South Shore ■ Moku Hawaii ■ Tropical Rush ■ Big Island Surf Shop ■ Kai Kane ■ Hi Tech Sports W W W. I N D O B O A R D . C O M ■ ■
Kalani Vierra photos: Gibber
HAWAI‘I: O‘ahu: North Shore: Aikane Kai Surf Shop, Aloha General Store, Aoki Shave Ice, Banzai Sushi, Breakers, Cafè Haleiwa, Cholo’s, Da Board Shop, Deep Ecology, Haleiwa Eats, Hawaiian Island Creations, Island Shack, Kemoo Pub, Killer Tacos, Kono’s, Kua Aina, Matsumoto Shave Ice, Quiksilver Boardriders Club, Raging Isle, Spaghettini, Starbucks Pupukea, Strong Current, Surf N Sea, Surf and Sail, Ted’s Bakery, Tropical Rush, Turtle Bay Resort, Waimea Falls Grill, WRV, Xcel East Side: HIC, Hukilau Cafe, Hukilau Surf, Island Snow, Laie Inn, Maui Tacos, Muddy Waters Espresso, Point Break, Uncle Bobo West Side: Blue Hawaii Surf Outlet, Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park, Local Motion, Spectrum Trailers Hawaii South Shore: Billabong Waikiki, Blue Hawaii, Blue Planet, Borders, Clips, Down To Earth, Diamond Head Health Bar, Downing Hawaii, Drift Surf, Hawaiian South Shore, HIC, Honolua Surf Co., House of Flys, Koa Board Sports, Kua Aina, Local Motion, Mauka to Makai, MR3, Quiksilver Waikiki, Quiksilver Youth, Rip Curl Ala Moana, Roxy, Russ K Boardriders, Sera’s Surf & Shore, Surf Co., Surf Garage, T&C, Tropical Blends, Turbo Surf, Up and Riding, Wahoo’s Fish Tacos, Xcel Maui: Lahaina: Billabong Retail, Boardriders Lahaina, Boardriders Whaler’s Village, Honolua Surf Co., Local Motion, Maui Surf Company, Maui Water Wear, Maui Tropix, Napili Coffee, Paradise Smoothie, Surfline Store Town: Ainokea, Borders, Hawaiian Island Sun Sports, Hawaiian Surf Works, Hi-Tech Surf, Las Pinatas, Lightning Bolt, Local Motion, Maui Tropix, Neil Pryde, Otopia, Second Wind, Shapers, The Foam Company Kihei: Big Wave Cafè, Jaws Fish Tacos, Local Motion, Maui Tacos Paia: Anthony’s, Da Kine Factory Store, Hana Hwy Surf, Jaws Fish Tacos, Live Wire Cafè, Maui Tropix, Sailboards Maui, Simmer
FreeSurf Magazine is available at all Jamba Juice Locations in Hawai‘i!
Big Island: Hilo: Big Island Surf-Prince Kuhio Plaza, Big Island Surf-Bayfront, Hilo Surfboard Company, Local Style, Orchidland Surfboards Kona: 808 Surf & Skate, A‘ama Surf & Sport, Big Island Surf, Conscious Riddims Records Inc., Hawaii Lifeguards, Honolua Surf Co., Honolua Wahine, Kahalu‘u Bay Oshima Surf, Killer Tacos, Kona Boyz, Miller’s Surf & Sport, Pacific Vibrations, Surf & Sea, World Core Pahoa: Jeff Hunt Surfboards, Kona Boyz Waimea: Big Island Surf Kaua‘i: Hanalei: Bamboo Bamboo, Bikini Room, Hanalei Backdoor, Hanalei Surf Company, Mormaii, Kai Kane Princeville: Paradise Kilauea: Kilauea Bakery Kapaa: Tamba, M. Miura, The Wave Wailua: Chicks Who Rip, Kauai Surf Company, Play Dirty, Underwater Lihue: Deja Vu, Honolua Surf Co., Hawaiian Blades, Jamba Juice Poipu: Aloha Surf Shop, Honolua Surf Co., Nukumoi, Progressive Expressions Kalaheo: Kaleheo Steak House Ele Ele: Grinds Cafè Hanapepe: Dr. Ding MAINLAND: Hermosa/Manhattan Beach: Becker Surfboards, ET Surf, Spyder Surfboards, Surf Concepts Gardena: Bob's Hawaiian Style Restaurant, Cherrystone's, Tapioca Express Huntington Beach: Huntington Surf and Sport, Jack's Surfboards, Wahoo's Fish Taco Torrence: Wahoo's Fish Taco San Diego: Beachbreak Café Oceanside, Buccaneer Beach, Carlsbad Pipelines Surf Shop, Calypso, Encinitas Surfboards, Honey’s Café, Kaisen Sushi, Kealani’s Restaurant Oceanside/Encinitas, JamRoc Encinitas, Le Papagayo, Leucadia Surf Shop, Mitches Surf, Nautical Bean, Pannikan Coffee shop, Pizza Port-Solana/Carlsbad/San Clemente, Rusty Surf Shop Del Mar, Stratford Café Del Mar, SurfrideOceanside/Solana Beach, Sushi on the Rock La Costa, Swami’s Café-Oceanside Harbor, UNIV Boutique Encinitas
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Essence of Aloha with Trella Trella Costa - Personal Trainer/Therapeutic Massage Therapist Lic.#3437 59-615 Kawoa Place, Hale‘iwa Hawai‘i, 96712 808 542-7362 • trellamakuakai@yahoo.com
Buttons surf school 808-497-8140 Buttonssurfschool.com
Last Look
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Photo: Kanoa Dahlin
Pro surfer turned photog, Kanoa Dahlin, sets the mood with this evening beauty, Evangeline.
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