Fsmv6 11

“I’VE NEVER BEEN SO STOKED TO GO STRAIGHT IN MY LIFE” —CJ KANUHA PG. 60

MOMENTS LIKE THESE FAR-FLUNG PERFECTION IN THE SPICE ISLANDS DIRTY BOYS: RAGING AT THE PREMIERE OF STILL FILTHY

Mikala Jones

Photo: Seth Johnson

VOLUME 6 NUMBER 11

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FREE PARKING

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Gavin Sutherland, gesturing the cover up and the drive through. Photo: Heff

F R E E S U R F M A G A Z IN E .C O M

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True Aloha Spirit.

Dustin Barca in the Barca boardshort

A tribute to King Kaumuali’i of Kauai. The guardian of good spirits. Tattooed tribal patterns of Hawaiian heritage. Kukui nuts and sugar cane juice tapped into the skin. These are the things that represent the true aloha spirit. A frame of mind that Dustin Barca carries with him beyond the islands.

A respect for his culture and for others. We have taken these cues and helped Dustin design a boardshort in this image.

Something that his friends and family will be proud of.

Simply named, the Barca boardshort.

CONTENTS FSM V6#11 NOVEMBER

MAKE A MAN OUT OF YOU THE MCNAMARA BOYS AND FRIEND EALA STEWART TEST THEIR GRIT IN THE THROWING TUBES OF INDO. 46

THE PERFECT READING BIG PHOTOS, PERFECT WAVES, SASHIMI-GRADE SURFING, AND THE IDEAL BUOY READINGS. 72

SIX-FOOT, HAWAIIAN STYLE MORE THAN JUST AN ADEPT SURFER WITH AN INFECTIOUS SMILE, FREESURF UNVEILS A PORTRAIT OF ONE OF HAWAI‘I’S MOST ENIGMATIC SURFERS, CJ KANUHA. 60

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Photo: Rock

F R E E S U R F M A G A Z IN E .C O M

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Model: Christina

Photo: Vidonavic

CONTENTS FSM V6#11

10 22 24 26 28 30

Free Parking On the cover Mikala Jones Masthead Editor’s Note performance morph in progress Eh Howzit Free-Time Gallery Inside Section Salani Resort smashed by tidal wave // Pack your boardbag: A how to // Billabong’s Still Filthy premieres in Honolulu // Name that surf spot // Ditch the plastic bottle // Off the charts with Beau // Ross Williams, relevant as ever

42 86 90 92 94 102 108 20

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Whatevas The Throwdowns News & Events Billabong Pro Junior Sunset Beach Grom Report Landon McNamara She Rips Leila Hurst, the face of what's to come Free Plugs Pau Hana The Weather Guy Last Look

F R E E S U R F M A G A Z IN E .C O M

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ON THE COVER

MAKE ME A BELIEVER

Photo: Latronic

With his trademark grin and calming demeanor, Mikala Jones has been on our favorite list here at FREESURF for quite some time. Whether it be drawing his patented graceful lines along an open face at Rockys, rushing a heaver at Backdoor or making us drool with an image of him slotted in some far-off corner of the earth, Mikala represents the essence of what being a surfer is supposed to be about. Boiled down to a sticky and cliché reduction, Mikala is living the dream, giving us desk dwellers that special reminder of why we all started surfing in the first place.

When Seth Johnson, a rising lensmen in his own right from Honolulu, rang us up recently telling of some backlit perfection he scored in Indonesia, our ears perked. Ever skeptical—Hey, we see a lot of photos—we told Seth to send them over and we’d take a look. When the sultry shots appeared on our inbox the following day, we knew we had something special on our hands. Seth made us believers. It was a collection of the iconic, with each photo dreamier than the last. But when we came across this shot of Mikala at an undisclosed location (Seth made us swear under penalty of torture that we wouldn’t give up the name) we all took a step back. Telling on a number of levels, the shot had the entire staff weak at the knees. Mikala’s majestic top turn, the pair of onlookers in the foreground, the emerald tones in the face—we were all ready to call our travel agents and book the next flight out of town. Sure as the light of day, this was going to be a cover, no questions asked.

Here’s hoping this cover launches a few dreams.

ON THE COVER: Mikala Jones PHOTO: Seth Johnson

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PHOTOS BY: KANOA DAHLIN, DAMEA DORSEY

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www.honoluasurf.com

A product of Manulele, Inc. Volume 6 • Number 11 Publisher Mike Latronic

Editorial Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter

Free Thinkers Beau Flemister, Jack Kittinger, Siri Masterson, Noa Myers, Manny Pangilinan, Tom Stone

Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Bernie Baker, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Mark Berkowitz, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Darin Crawford, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Damea Dorsey, Willi Edwards, Brandon Ells, Beau Flemister, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Kirby Fukunaga, Ryan Gamma, Gordinho, Chris Hagan, John Helper, Jon Huberman, Rick Hurst, Buzzy Kerbox, Danny Kim, Kin Kimoto, Peter King, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Christian Peralta, Steve Robertson, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Paul Teruya, Kevin Whitton, Jimmy Wilson

Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson

Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURFon the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

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EDITOR'S NOTE

CHANGING THE GAME SURFING’S LATEST EVOLUTION

Photo: Tyler Rock

You may have noticed it in your last session. And the answer is an unequivocal “no.” It really wasn’t a fluke, I promise. Your eyes didn’t lie when that 12-year-old whipped a full rotation the other day; nor was it a one-time turn when that girl laid down her rail with enough grit to make you question your manhood.

(It’s okay, it really is…) Surfing, an act that’s pulled us in since our first foam dance so many years ago, she’s changing, so much so that it almost feels like an entirely different sport is taking root right before us. Offshores are out and onshores are in. Summer is the new winter. Above the knee trunks are cool again. The surf world is turned on its head and it’s all thanks to that glorious crop of surfers under the age of 21.

With a renaissance of progression in the sport that’s incomparable to anything we’ve ever seen, the kids are changing the game. Not the Momentum Generation, not the Bustin’ Down the Doors Crew and not the Endless Summer ilk of the ’60s—nope, in my humble opinion, none of those groups can compare to the boundaries that are being crossed today.

Don’t believe me? Well then, wonder your skeptical eyes on down to our Burning Youth feature on pg.46, and I’ll make you devotee. On those glossy pages, we bear witness to a band of groms lighting up the Spice Islands, none of them older than 14. Six-second barrels over dry bone-busting Third World reef, lofty punts—this was an average day for the McNamara Boys on their Spice Island sojourn.

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And then there’s Carissa Moore who, as we are going to press, qualified for next year’s World Tour by ending her maiden season on the ’QS in third place. Between Moore, Gilmore, and Coco Ho, the women’s side of the tour never looked so, well, exciting. Not only are the young female surfers of today keeping pace with their male counterparts, but their doing it all on a fledgling tour.

All of this is enough to make me feel old. And I’m not, really. Despite the random gray hair creeping through my dome, I realized that, at 27, I’m still young enough to feel a connection to the youth but I’ve also been around just long enough to identify with the older crowd as well. This puts me in a unique situation to document what I see happening in the surf world: change. The 21st-century grom of today is not only rerouting the game, but they are doing it all on the backs of what’s been laid before them. You can’t be a prominent junior these days if you aren’t well-rounded. Airs are great, but if you can’t connect your turns then you’re a nobody. The best juniors today are capable of it all, big-waves barrels, contest surfing, freesurfing, airs, tweaks, you name it and it’s all in the bag for these kids.

Take warning: the youth mean business. Now it’s up to the rest of us to just sit back, try and emulate what we can when we can, and watch the game change.

Hope you enjoy the mag. —Jeff Mull

Matt Rockhold Wears The Signal

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Photo: Mana

INSIDE SECTION

SALANI IS “GONE” Right about now, Nick Shannon, a 35-year-old Australian surfer, is going about his life, changing the diapers on his 16-month-old son, and trying to come to grips with the complete destruction of his previous home at the Salani Surf Resort in Samoa. Most people don’t know Shannon’s name, but he is one of the many unsung heroes that saved some lives during the recent tsunami.

As was reported across the globe, the small, surf-laden island of Samoa was hammered by a deadly earthquake that spawned an even deadlier tsunami recently, killing more than 100 people in Samoa alone in the process. Details emerging from the island have been sketchy, and we’ve even heard a few rumors that the long-heralded Salani camp itself fell victim to the mountain of water.

Recently, we spoke to the resort’s general manager, the aforementioned Nick Shannon, and what he told us is downright harrowing.

According to Shannon, he was awoken early by the most unnerving earthquake—make that experience—he’s ever felt.

“Mate, it was the most violent thing I’ve ever felt in my entire life. I can’t really describe to you how violent it was. [The earthquake registered at an 8.0 and has been reported to last up to two to three minutes]. After the earthquake and the tsunami, there’s a local village chief whose 70 years old and lives next to the camp. I asked him if he ever felt anything like that before and he said that no, never. Nothing like that. We get hit by earthquakes every once in a while, but this was something different. It was so violent.”

Physically but not mentally shaken by the quake, Shannon undertake a course of action that saved the lives the of resort’s six guests by ushering them up hill, out of reach for any potential tsunami. As the quake subsided, Shannon had one of the resort workers keep an eye on the reef, searching for anything irregular. Sure enough, irregular happened.

“I told one of the fellas that works for us to keep an eye on the reef and see if anything looks weird. A few minutes later and he’s yelling at me, telling me that something really strange is going on. Right then we got everybody in the trucks and drove up this hill to wait it out for the all clear.”

When Shannon made his way back down the hill, he could see that his home, the Salani Surf Resort, was devastated. Everything was gone.

Flattened by Mother Nature. Despite the tragedy, Shannon remains upbeat that he was able to help save the guests and some others and hopes to begin rebuilding the resort shortly.

“Yeah, we’re going to rebuild and we will make Salani better than ever.”

Photos: Courtesy Salani Resorts

The Eddie will run and Bruce will win // We’ll all just get along // A Hawaiian will win the Triple Crown // wetsuit 30

FREESURF MAGAZ I NE . COM

INSIDE SECTION

M o d e l s f o r E v e ry L e v e l o f S u rf i n g B y S u rf Co Hawaii

SUPER FLEX - S a f e t y F i n s

4.5”

Flexible core with soft edges.

• Choice of FCS, Future, O’Fishl, Lokbox, BIC or NSP fin base

• Perfect fins for kids, beginners, surf schools, and rescue boards.

• For experienced surfers who want a fun, very easy to turn, and forgiving fin.

• Flexible urethane core bends flat.

• Soft urethane edges greatly reduce fin cuts.

• Available in 4.5,” 7,” & 9.”

• Will fit polyester, epoxy, Softops, BIC, NSP, and softboards.

4.5” Softboard

7” & 9” Longboard Center

HOW TO PACK A BOARDBAG We’ve all been there before, that God-awful moment when you rock up to the baggage claim and that once-pristine boadbag holding your two favorite boards looks like it just took an IED to the face. Here are a few tips on packing your ure that boards to ensure n one they arrive in piece the next time hralping you go shralping abroad.

• Single Fin set-up • 2 + 1 Fin set-up (4.5” Super Flex or 4.0” Pro Teck side fins with longboard center fin)

POWER FLEX - P e rf o rmance Fins Medium core flex with soft edges.

4.0,” 4.25,” & 4.5” • Choice of FCS, Future or Lokbox fin base

• Fin bends on turns, then springs back, creating forward thrust.

• Soft and flexible trailing edge makes your board turn smooth, fluid, and fast.

• Soft urethane edges greatly reduce fins cuts.

• Water clear core with tint edges.

• Available in 4.0,”, 4.25,” 4.5,” 7,” & 9.”

• Will fit FCS, Future, Lokbox, and longboard center boxes.

• Recommended for experienced to professional surfers.

4.5” Softboard

7” & 9” Longboard Center • Single Fin set-up • 2 + 1 Fin set-up (4.0” Power Flex side fins with longboard center fin)

PRO TECK - P e rf o rm a n c e F i n s Rigid core with flexible edges.

4.0,” 4.25,” & 4.5” • Choice of FCS, Future,O’Fishl, Lokbox or Red X fin base

• Rigid core creates good drive and projection.

• Flexible trailing edge makes the board ride smooth, fast, and easy to turn.

• Choice of regular and stiff urethane edges for different wave conditions, board shapes, and surfing styles.

• Flexible urethane edges greatly reduce fin cuts.

• Available in 4.0,” 4.25,” 4.50,” 7,” & 9.”

• Will fit FCS, Future,O’Fishl, Lokbox, Red X, and longboard center boxes.

• Recommended for experienced to professional surfers.

PACK ’EM TIGHT: Filling in any open spaces in the bag ensures that your boards have less room to bang around, making you less likely to ding your board. We like using towels on the nose and tail, adding cushion and stability to your traveling quiver.

7” & 9” Longboard Center • Single Fin set-up • 2 + 1 Fin set-up (4.0” Pro Teck side fins with longboard center fin)

PRO TECK - C a r b o n - X F i n s Extra rigid core with flexible edges.

4.25” & 4.5”

• Choice of FCS, Future, and Lokbox.

• Extra rigid core creates maximum drive, projection, and speed.

• Extra light for maximum weight savings.

• Flexible trailing edge makes the board ride fluid and fast.

• Flexible urethane edge greatly reduce fin cuts.

• Available in 4.25,” & 4.50” • Will fit FCS, Future, and Lokbox • Recommended for experienced to professional surfers only.

PADDING, PADDING, PADDING: With newly implemented checked baggage fees being that extra kick in the nuts at the airport, why not save money and throw all of your clothes in the bag, doubling up on padding and absorbing knockout blows from baggage handlers.

STAY STRAPPED: These things are lifelines ensuring that your boards arrive in one piece and believe it or not, they often go unused. By keeping your boards tight and secure, you’re lessening the odds of you completely losing it when you open up your bag when you get to your destination.

shorts will make a comeback // So will APE gloves //

INSIDE SECTION

LET’S GET FILTHY BILLABONG’S STILL FILTHY PREMIERES IN HONOLULU

Friday night. Downtown Honolulu. The boys in blue are out in force, patrolling the city’s Chinatown district, trying to keep the peace amid the hundreds of meandering hipsters crawling through the streets. The first Friday of every month always draws a hefty crowd to the historic streets of the city. Bars and shops keep their doors open late, people mingle, wear tight jeans and plaid shirts, and don asymmetrical haircuts. It is oh so chic.

A few blocks north of the art crawl and a crowd of surfers are standing affront a dimly lit pair of goliath bouncers, having their hands stamped and birthdates checked before they enter the club. Once in they’ll join their aquatic brethren for the premiere of one of the most anticipated and progressive surf films to make it to the islands in years. It’s the debut of Billabong’s Still Filthy and from the looks of the crowd inside the club, it’s gonna be a hell of a night.

With $3 dollar Primos and a steady drip of thirsty customers crowding the bar, the vibe inside the building was flowing well before the flick even started. Once the lights dimmed and the unforgettable Billabong logo tattooed itself on the projector, the club erupted in a fit of whistles and pidgen-tinted “chheee-hoooos.”

From the opening wave to Parko’s closing segment, Still Filthy did not disappoint. With a soundtrack that will survive the ages, the movie will prove to be as watchable in 2019 as it was in 2009. But more than just good edits and a head-bobbing set of beats, the film’s most solid aspect was the surfing itself, earning yells of approval from the Hawai‘i crowd whenever a standout punt was stomped or someone weaved their way through a heaver.

That being said, no one seemed to make more of an impression on the audience than the Big Island's Torrey Meister, who had one of the more memorable segments of the movie, showcasing his lightning-fast repoitre.

“That was amazing; the bar is officially raised,” said Billabong frontman and team guru Rainos Hayes at the conclusion of the movie.

Rainos said it right. Taking nothing away from the effervescent club and crowd, but the surfing in Still Filthy goes above and beyond and proved itself the highlight of the evening. With the entire cast of the film having full, headwhipping rotations seemingly on lockdown, it’s unimaginable to see what’s next.

Here’s to a crazy night in Chinatown, and the bar, both literally and figuratively, being raised.

The Maui contingency will continue to rise // You’ll get shacked at Rocky 34

FR EESURF MAGAZ I NE . COM

BLANK SPACE Plain and simple, there are a shitload of waves on the North Shore.

From November through March it seems to rain photos of Seven-Mile perfection. Judging by the fact that you’re holding this mag in your hands, we’re betting that you know your fair share about the peaks in the island. That said, here’s a blank wave, think you can name it?

PLASTIC NOT SO FANTASTIC Here’s a staggering fact: According to the website Cleanair.org, Americans throw away an astounding 2.5 million plastic bottles every hour. You read it right, that figure is per hour. As a means to cut down on waste and stay hydrated, consider switching over to an EcoUsable bottle.

Recently partnered with the Kokua Foundation EcoUsable is committed to minimizing our effect on Hawaii’s environment.

So unless you hate the environment—and who hates the environment?

—ditch the plastic and get your hands on something that will last.

Rights // You’ll also get burned at Rockys // You’ll surf

Photo: Baeseman

INSIDE SECTION

Answer: Velzey Land

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INSIDE SECTION

OFF THE MAP…AGAIN INDONESIA

Our man on the ground, Beau Flemister, digging in somewhere in Indo. Photo: Courtesy Flemister

Oh, the blur that is traveling. One minute you’re getting pitted off your arse, the next you’re asking some 19-year-old doctor with a cigarette dangling from his mouth, “Does this need stitches?” The answer is yes. It’s always yes.

This kid would stitch a tummy ache if given the chance, because this doctor, he doesn’t turn America (read rich) patients away.

Hours earlier I had just hit the bottom hard on my right heel while surfing an intense and shallow left-hander. Now I’m on a filthy medical gurney, God it was dirty, and the kid—I mean doctor—is telling me, “Please relax, Paul, this is going to hurt very much.” Three pokes of novacaine to a raw, open wound and I’m squirming. There is a small audience of waiting patients starting to crowd our room to take a good look. The kid—I mean doctor—has an assistant and he attempts to stitch the wound. The doctor doesn’t seem to mind the small crowd infringing on the procedure. As I’m writhing in pain, a woman in the crowd takes a picture from her cell phone. Another man lifts his son in front of the doctor’s head to get a glimpse of the gash.

The assistant has made four different tries to get the needle through the thick, elastic flesh of my heel and has even bent the needle in half (twice) trying. Even the small crowd is murmuring their disapproval of the assistant’s performance. Pissed and impatient, I yell for the real doctor to finish the job.

“I am sorry, Paul, my colleague is not prepared for the job like I think he is.”

Yeah, no shit. The kid—I mean doctor—finishes the stitches and also pokes me in the ass with a syringe full of amoxicillin, just for good measure. The doctor’s bill: $20. Having a crowd of locals giggling at your personal agony: priceless. And with that, I’m back on a stranger’s motorbike speeding through the night.

Up until that point, however, the traveling was seamless. Just to get to “said wave” was a taxi, then flight, another taxi across the width of an island, a wobbling ferry across a swell-filled straight, and finally another taxi to the corner of an island where at the top of the hill where I caught that magical glimpse that every traveling surfer dreams of: turquoise, spitting lines funneling around a wide corner of reef. Not to mention that I inadvertently timed my arrival on the biggest swell of the season this year in Indo. For the next few days, me and the few friends I came with proceeded to get very, very tubed, break a couple of boards and develop an all-too intimate and unwanted relationship with the sharp and shallow sea floor. But now, yet again, I’m clinging to the shoulders of a strange man that I do not know as weave through potholes at breakThe doctor’s bill: $20. neck speeds, illuminated only Having a crowd of locals by the dim beam of light from giggling at your personal the bike’s headlamp.

I’ve realized that this, agony: f--king priceless. right now, my body full of stitches and pain killer, strapped to the back of a man on a moped, is what traveling is about.

Constant movement. Having an idea of the destination, and at the same time, having no idea at all. Going and not necessarily knowing why. Trusting that the stranger behind the handlebars of the motorbike will get you there safely.

The rider leans a hard right at the fork in the road illuminated by a flickering bulb on the surf-camp sign. We nearly hit a family of macaque monkeys gingerly crossing the road, and I think I see the mother scowling at me as we whiz by.

“Sorry,” I mouth at her, but we’ve already disappeared into the night.

Rubber Duckies, and you’ll like it // That girl in the bikini at Rockys, yeah, she’s got a boyfriend, and no, she’s not at all 38

FR EESURF MAGAZ I NE . COM

INSIDE SECTION

DON’T CALL IT ACAUSE COMEBACK ROSS WILLIAMS NEVER LEFT ’

Photo: Baeseman

Interview by Eric Baeseman FREESURF Magazine: There’s been a lot of hype about you coming out of retirement. Any truth there?

FSM: So everyone is claiming huge winter swells this season due to El Niño. What’s your take for The Eddie? You fired up?

Ross Williams: Am I out of retirement? Well, I’m super amped on surfing. Now that my kids are a little older and in school, it’s easier for me to surf more and even go on some trips for Reef. The biggest thing for me is surfing good waves. I miss that the most, so when I get to go on trips nowadays, I’m so stoked to be there and I’ll just surf all day. Nothing feels better than surfing really fun waves.

RW: I love surfing big waves. Nothing gets me more amped to surf than those big perfect days. I like to surf places that are uncrowded and not really photographed much either. Because of that, I’m not really on the list anymore for The Eddie. I’m bummed but not much I can do about it.

I really enjoy surfing less crowded spots, which is why a lot of people ask me where I’ve been when I surf out at Pipe or Rockys. I always tell them I still surf all the time! I love Backdoor and all those places but I would go insane if I couldn’t get away from that.

FSM: Do you feel that your surfing has changed a little because you're not getting in as many sessions with Kelly, Shane and those guys as you used to?

RW: Is my surfing as strong as before, being off tour and away from Kelly and that crew? There’s nothing better for your surfing than being around the best surfers in the world. I miss that. When Kelly and the guys are in Hawaii, I try to take advantage of surfing with them as much as possible. You progress and evolve around those guys. I’m hoping I can go on more trips with my friends now that I have some support from Reef.

FSM: Rumor has it that your golf game is straight-up amazing. We heard that you’re a scratch player. Let’s hear about it.

RW: I love to play golf for so many reasons. It was a way to stay close to my dad. It’s peaceful. It’s a lifelong challenge. It’s fair. And it gives me some satisfaction. I wish I was scratch. I’m about a 5 handicap.

There are a lot of parallels between surfing and golf but to me surfing will never be replaced. But I do love how golf rewards good play, unlike surfing where there’s so much hype.

interested // Primos will flow like water // You’ll take a set wave on the head—no make that two // 40

FR EESURF MAGAZ I NE . COM

Keanu Asing 2009 U16 Gold Medalist

ISA WORLD JUNIOR SURFING CHAMPIONSHIPS PIHA, AUCKLAND NEW ZEALAND JANUARY 20 - 28

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FREESURF Magazine: So you guys are over here on Oahu from Maui promoting your band. How would you say the Oahu music scene compares to Maui?

Erin Smith: The scene on Maui is really cool.

It’s smaller and pretty quaint, but it’s still cool for sure. Over here, it seems like you guys have a lot more venues, different places to play. On Maui, if we have to, we’ll just set up our own make-shift venue. But over here, there’s a lot more opportunity to play.

FSM: Here’s a bit of a random question, but can you remember the last song you listened to on your iPod? ES: Hmm. I can’t remember the last song, but I’m pretty sure it was M.I.A. She’s really talented. Or it might have been something from Metric, I’ve been listening to them a lot lately.

Kimo Clark: [laughs] Well, I hate to say it, but mine was Miley Cyrus. I actually really like that song, “Party in the USA.” Maybe don’t print that. [laughs.]

FSM: Oh, no worries. I won’t. As a band, what would be considered success to you guys?

KC: Right now, just to get the album out, do some touring, make an impact.

ES: Yeah, that would be killer, our drummer would say to play in a huge stadium, but just getting our music out to people would be cool. We want to do a big tour by next summer through the mainland, we’re also trying our hand at different types of media to get the word out.

FSM: Yeah, I saw that you guys had a MySpace page.

KC: Oh cool. Yeah, I think that’s dying though.

I don’t think a lot of people really use MySpace other than bands. I see our friend list dropping every day with people canceling their MySpace account. But you should definitely go there to check out our album.

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FSM: Speaking of albums, how can I get my greasy, keyboard-tappin mitts on one of those bad boys?

ES:You can go to any Hot Topic in Hawaii and pick one up. Or you can go to iTunes and just get it there.

FSM: Sweet...like the donuts you gave us.

ES: [akward silence] ...

Photo: Courtesy of The Throwdowns

They came in a rental car loaded with a trunk full of Krispy Kreme donuts and handed me an entire box of the glazed goodness. I liked them already. As one of the premier indy-rock-with-a-touch-of-dub bands in Hawaii, I’m not alone in my infatuation with The Throwdowns. In no time, we get to talking about the trials and tribulations of 21stcentury rock ’n’ roll in the Sandwich Islands. Today, only two of the band’s four members join me for our maiden interview. Erin Smith, the lead singer, and Kimo Clark who slaps the bass. They’re dressed like, well, rockers, and are upbeat on their current post in life. And they should be. In the past year, they’ve come of age doing shows to a growing following in their home on Kihei, Maui. But it’s what they have in store for them in the future that really seems to get them amped.

INSIDE SECTION

VOLCOM’S BS! 4 OUT OF 5 SHAKAS From the odd, obscure, funny and offbeat minds at Volcom comes their latest masterpiece simply titled BS! Focusing in on the adolescent crop of Volcom freaks, BS! sends any sane-minded surfer into sensory overload with the amazing surfing of Mitch Coleborn, Alex Gray and Dusty Payne.

While BS! is pretty much what you would expect from a Volcom surf movie (obscure and oh-so avant garde), it does show some insight into the movie’s three stars with impromptu interviews. Also featured is an always-fascinating and ever-daring Ozzie Wright, the goofy Andrew “Droid” Doheny and hard-charging Tyler Smith.

Through the strange cutaways, edits and unconventional music, Volcom definitely throws it down, proving they are a force to be reckoned with in the realm of surf cinema.

Taking place in the usual surf destinations—Indo, Cali, Hawai‘i, etc.—the waves seem to take a second seat as the cast of progressive and futurists take over. The obvious standouts are Mitch and Dusty who seem to feed off each other in pursuit of the sickest clips. This is no more apparent than in the movie’s final sequence with Mitch and Dusty progressively pushing each other faster, harder and higher above the lip culminating in a all-you-can-eat aerial buffet.

BS! will easily amp you up for your next surf but may also discourage you. The truth is most of us will never tweak out our surfing as much as the stars of BS! But don’t worry, we’ll probably never break an ankle trying a 6-foot air either. So, watch BS! and leave the hardcore shredding to the pros.

NORTH

BY THE SHORENUMB#RS THE

35: The number of surf spots on the North Shore listed by a certain website that will go unnamed.

23: More spots on the North Shore than were listed on the aforementioned site.

7: The amount, in percent, of Hawaii-based surfers that have surfed all of the peaks on the North Shore. $5.47: The price for a regular serving of poke and rice at the Kahuku superette.

84: Percentage of East Side surfers that agree that poke and rice from the Kahuku superette is the perfect post-surf meal.

1.3: The average time, in minutes, spent in the checkout line at Foodland in September.

Proud partners of the Plastic Free Hawaii Coalition

3.5: The average time, in mintues, spent in the checkout line at Foodland in November

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BurningYouth VENTURE TO THE SPICE

ISLANDS

WITH EALA STEWART AND THE McNAMARAS

Landon McNamara’s disappearing act...

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Parading onward, through the rice paddies, bemos, and narrow streets packed with beckoning vendors, the McNamara Clan plus one—Liam, Makai, Landon and Eala Stewart—get their first view of Indonesia’s Desert Point. For the boys, their knees shake and a growing knot snakes itself through their stomachs as sets stack themselves out to the horizon.

Photos: Seth Johnson

Liam’s been coming to this corner for nearly two decades and this isn’t the first trip for Makai and Landon, but for Eala, it is his maiden voyage away from Hawaii and into the far-flung lineups of the East. What they see before them is the stuff of notebook doodles and sleepless nights. It is perfection with a price. It is shallow, tide-dependent, terrifying and at once completely wonderful. It is Indo.

The 6-foot scalp-claiming lefts detonating affront present a crucible of sorts, a test for the boys. With a summerly voyage to Indo becoming a rite of passage for many of today’s juniors, having a standout showing in the Indian is as important as strong showing in the NSSA. If you can’t hang in throaty Padang or weave your way through a grower at Deserts, you’ve got some work to do, son.

For Makai, Landon and Eala, the mettle test in Indo has become so engrained in their minds that it needs not be spoken. They’ve looked forward to this trip for months. The unfamiliar smells, the foreign culture, the food—all of this has been steeping in their heads. And as they get this first look at firing Deserts, with its lure of glory, they know what they have to do. After all, they didn’t come all this way to Indo to pull back.

The following pages represent three of Hawaii’s sons, venturing abroad in a hunt for waves that will test them both mentally and physically. Judging from the photos, their crusade proved lucrative.

Seq: peperomo.com

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“Getting there is a journey. It’s such a different place.

All the smells, the cars, a whole family on a moped...

It’s so different from Hawai‘i.”

Liam McNamara demonstating proper tube technique.

Landon still going...

Photo: Pepe

Makai McNamara

Photo: MacDaddy

Legend McNamara

Photo: MacDaddy

Landon

Photo: MacDaddy

Photo: MacDaddy

Photo: Seth Johnson

Makai

Landon?

Landon...?

Photo: MacDaddy

Photo: Seth Johnson

“You don’t want to fall there.

You’ll get so cut up.

I had my shorts and arms completely ripped up from going over.”

Eala and Makai

Photo: MacDaddy

Nathan Carvalho

Photo: MacDaddy

CONTINUED ON PAGE 56

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Seq: MacDaddy

Photo: Seth Johnson

Unidentified

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Photo: Dan Merkel/A-Frame

INVITEES Andy Irons, Brian Keaulana, Brock Little, Bruce Irons, Carlos Burle, Clyde Aikau, Darryl Virostko, Greg Long, Jamie O’Brien, Jamie Sterling, Kelly Slater, Keone Downing, Makuakai Rothman, Mark Healey, Michael Ho, Noah Johnson, Peter Mel, Reef McIntosh, Ross Clarke-Jones, Rusty Keaulana, Shane Dorian, Sunny Garcia, Titus Kinimaka, Tom Carroll. INTERNATIONAL INVITEES Grant Baker, Ibon Amatriain, Ramon Navarro, Takayuki Wakita. ALTERNATE INVITEES Kala Alexander (Aikau Pick), Pancho Sullivan, Garrett McNamara, Kohl Christensen, Dave Wassel, Keoni Watson, Nathan Fletcher, Ian Walsh, Danny Fuller, Kalani Chapman, Taylor Knox, Chava Greenlee, Jamie Mitchell, Myles Padaca, Tony Moniz, Darrick Doerner, Ken Collins, Ross Williams, Derek Ho, Paul Paterson, Anthony Tashnick, Koby Abberton, Laurent Pujol, Laurie Towner.

HONORARY INVITEES Mark Foo, Todd Chesser, Tiger Espere, Jay Moriarty, Peter Davi, Lester Falatea.

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SIGN UP FOR MOBILE ALERTS AT QUIKSILVER.COM/EDDIE

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Again, Landon

Eala Stewart CONTINUED FROM PAGE 51

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Photo: peperomo.com

Photo: Seth Johnson

Keala Naihe

Photo: Seth Johnson

Photo: Seth Johnson

“Deserts is unreal.

It’ll be flat at high tide and 6-feet at low tide.

The wave fully grows.”

Makai

Photo: Seth Johnson

Landon!

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I’m sure he pulled this one; he does some heavy airs.

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Photo: Seth Johnson

Keala is one of our friends from the Big Island.

He went down there with some other guys and we met up. He pretty much rips.

The surfers holy grail Pipeline is the legendary wave every serious surfer wants to ride because it’s the best. No matter what happens in surf anywhere else in the world, it all comes back to Pipeline. pipelinegear.com

CLOTHESF R&E E SGEAR U R F M A G A Z IN E .C O M

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THE PRESERVATION ACTS OF

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BY JEFF MULL / PHOTOS BY ERIC BAESEMAN

THE BISHOP MUSEUM.

H O N O L U L U. Not too long ago, there was a young man walking through the air-conditioned halls of one of the state’s largest and most heralded collections of all things Hawaiiana. Small, flesh-toned grains of sand stick to the man’s feet like suckerfish clinging to the skin of a shark. His frame is tall, more than six feet, and his shoulders are as broad as the mountains that line the horizon. Judging by the way he weaves through the seemingly endless rows of books, diagrams and memoirs recanting the history of Hawaii, you’d think this man a scholar, a PhD candidate perhaps, someone making their rounds on their way to a teaching position at a University.

But Clement Keliipoaimoki Kanuha III, or CJ Kanuha as we all know him, is not on the hunt for a doctorate, but is digging through his past, zealously sussing out information on his Hawaiian heritage, his family. “I’ve spent so many hours in that museum. Whenever I’m on Oahu and have some time, I’ll go do some research there,” explains CJ.

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“When the waves are pumping at home I love surfing with CJ. His style is so explosive, powerful and fast. You just never really know what he is going to do.” —Shane Dorian I must admit, when I rang CJ for our interview, I expected to be hearing more about marathon sessions in Indo than at the Bishop Museum. But that’s CJ, an enigma, a person defined by being undefinable. At first glance, CJ looks like the quintessential surfer. Tanned from top to bottom, sinewed from shoulder to shoulder, and with a mop of blonde hair crowning his frame, CJ looks like he could have just as easily hailed from San Diego or New Smyrna than his home in Kona. But as was aforementioned, there’s so much more to CJ than what meets the eye.

“I guess I stand out a little bit. I’m the only blonde-haired Hawaiian around over here,” tells CJ with his characteristic chuckle.

But don’t let the Nordic features fool you. CJ, who’s half Hawaiian, holds a deep appreciation for the role that his family has played in shaping the face and history of the islands.

“I come from the Keawa line on the Big Island. They were one of the ruling families, the ali‘i nui, and we can trace ourselves back to the very first Hawaiians that landed here on the Big Island. A lot of people will say things like ‘I can trace my family back to Kamehameha the First.’

But Kamehameha would actually trace his roots back to our family, the Keawe o Kanuhas.”

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“CJ is an ambassador of aloha, 100 percent.

He and his family are so amazing and so kind. We surf all of the time and he pretty much flares me out of the water.”—Casey Brown

CJ’s deep-felt connection to his past is a result of the work of his father, a well known and highly respected fixture on the Big Island regarded for his keen devotion to his Hawaiian roots. It was thanks to his father that CJ began delving into the art of shaping boards in the old style. And when I say old, I mean it…we’re not talking bonzers and single-fins, but Koa and Kukui nut oil.

“My family has a lot of land over here in Kona. And one day I came across an old piece of Koa and I thought I would shape a board out of it. I didn’t want to shape a small alaia or anything, I wanted to do something the way they would have done it in the past. I wanted to shape an Olo [a longer shape, up to 15 feet long, traditionally designed for royalty] and do it the way they did it. So I took this single piece of wood and went to work. I was really happy with the way it turned out.

It was this massive, heavy board and I took it out in small surf. It was a little bit tricky to ride, I mean it weighed in near 200lbs. Riding it was like taking a step back in time. I’ve never been so stoked to go straight in my life. The board goes so fast. I was catching waves on the outside of this one spot and normally, it dies out on the inside and you can’t really make it through that section. On this board, I was flying through there. I love riding that board. It’s a chance for me to feel what my ancestors felt. To see what surfing was really like for them.”

AT 7 A.M. ON THE DOT, an alarm begins to buzz, waking CJ from his sleep in his home in Kona. As a professional surfer and the owner of his own business, CJ’s first moves of the day begin in the same fashion as they do in Tokyo, New York and Paris—cutting through the night’s deluge of email.

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“I’ve always liked surfing with CJ cause he’s psyching no matter how the waves are and he’s always super stoked if you get a good wave. He’s got a huge heart.”—Tonino Benson

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Photo: Heff

However promising his career as one of Hawai‘i’s top surfers may be, CJ has diversified his game to include a surf school and adventure guide realm. Aptly named CJ Kanuha Hawaiian Surf Schools and Adventures, CJ has reared a successful enterprise giving tourists surf tours and the like, all the while building relationships with the General Managers of Kona’s hotel industry and ensuring that his company will remain alive in the coming decades. After all, you can’t be a pro forever.

Although the surf tours keep CJ in a comfortable life, his heart is and will forever be dedicated to surfing. When the waves turn on in Kona, CJ’s days are spent in the water, surfing until his muscles cramp and his rash bleeds. “I try and stay in shape by getting in the water pretty much every day when I’m done doing work stuff. I’ll go for a 12mile paddle if it’s flat, but when the waves get good, I’ll literally surf all day. The scene on the Big Island is just unreal.

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Especially the scene at Banyans. A lot of people from O‘ahu say it’s real similar to the vibe at Makaha. There’s people cooking food for everyone every day, surfing, just cruising. It’s killer,” says CJ when asked about the vibe at his favorite Big Isle locale.

“There’s been a lot of talent coming out of the Big Island in the last few years. I mean, it’s always been there, but we don’t really have the same exposure that the guys on O‘ahu had,” tells CJ. “We got the job done, but now it’s a lot easier when you have guys keeping an eye out on the upcoming kids over here. I basically credit all of that to Shane Dorian. He’s the guy that really broke out of here and onto the bigger stage.”

In turn, CJ received some much-warranted credit from Shane himself. “CJ is one of my favorite humans. He always has so much energy.

He’s always up to something—if he isn’t killing it in the surf he is fishing or on some mission doing something. He’s just a really positive influence on the kids where we live and is always encouraging them to surf better. He’ll straighten them out, too, if they start going in the wrong direction.

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“But when the waves are pumping at home I just love surfing with the guy. His style is so explosive, powerful and fast that you never really know what he is going to do on a wave…no one throws more spray at Banyans, that’s for sure. His intensity and positive energy are infectious.”

CJ’s not one to poke holes at issues, but then again, he’s never been one to sugarcoat either. There’s no denying that the surf industry has its fair share of holes and CJ’s not afraid to point out where the weaknesses lie. But not before he prefaces his comment with some of the industries strong points.

“Surfing today is in a really great spot. The level of performance is unreal. People are really pushing it and all the best surfers are really well rounded. But there are a few things that I’m not a huge fan of. It’s a little strange how media hype works, how they will jump on one person for a while when you have other guys who are surfing just as good, but they’re just not getting the coverage. It’s that whole marketing thing…but I guess that’s just the way it works.”

Whatever way it works, it’s working for CJ. ˆ

“And when I say old, I mean it…we’re not talking bonzers and single-fins, but Koa and Kukui nut oil.” —CJ

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“I guess I stand out a little bit. I’m the only blonde-haired Hawaiian around over here.”

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APERTURE

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Photo: Baeseman

JAMIE O’BRIEN, PIPELINE—WNW 305˚ 8 FT @ 14 SEC.

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Seq: Latronic

KEKOA CAZIMERO, ROCKY PT—WNW 302˚ 3 FT @ 12 SEC.

DEREK HO, PIPELINE—WNW 290˚ 7 FT @ 15 SEC.

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Photo: Heff

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BRUCE IRONS, BACKDOOR—NW 316˚ 6 FT @ 12 SEC. FR EESURF MAGAZ I NE . COM

Photo: Baeseman

Photo: Rock

GAVIN GILLETTE, ROCKY RIGHTS—NNW 328˚ 4 FT @ 11 SEC.

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Photo: Baeseman

KALA ALEXANDER—NW 320˚ 8 FT @ 14 SEC.

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Photo: Latronic

EDRIC BALDWIN, ROCKY LEFTS—WNW 290˚, 3 FT @ 13 SEC.

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NEWS & EVENTS

MORE PRO THAN JUNIOR

Photo: Heff

PERFECTION ABOUNDS AT THE BILLABONG PRO JUNIOR SUNSET BEACH

Contest director and Billabong frontman Rainos Hayes couldn’t have asked for better conditions than what greeted the Billabong Pro Junior at Sunset Beach. Blue skies, sheet-glass conditions and overhead lines stacked out to the horizon made it as clear as crystal that the South Pacific was dishing up some of the best surf and conditions of the year. And at the event, the world’s most talented junior surfers, both male and female, had it all to themselves as they competed for points and prestige in the Hawaiian leg of the Pro Junior circuit.

Kolohe Andino, Cory Arrambide, Tyler Newton, Alex Smith and the rest of their talented junior brethren were all on hand at the event repping it for the boys while Nage Melamed, Carissa Moore and Alessa Quizon, ensured that the savviest women were in attendance.

Take note: In the past few years, the game has CONTINUED ON PAGE 88

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Photo: Heff

“Competition at this level isn’t necessarily about fun anymore, and although there’s no denying that laughs and grins are a part of the equation, these guys are here to win and they all mean business.”

top: Alex Smith, displaying shades of Andy Irons. bottom: Layered up the point, Albee Layer lives up to his surname.

NEWS & EVENTS changed for today’s young surfers. Competition at this level isn’t necessarily about fun anymore, and although there’s no denying that laughs and grins are a part of the equation, these guys are all here to win and they all mean business.

“We try and keep it in the water, but we all really want to win. And we all know it,” said rising star Kaimana Jaquias of Kauai.

As the day wore on, the serene conditions that met the early rounds deteriorated as a slight north wind came ashore, adding a bit of chop to the lineup. But the faltering winds didn’t stop the competition from getting out-right ridiculous as the juniors continued to tear down all preconceived notions of what is considered possible in the sport.

Carissa Moore, who has become the face of the current state of women’s surfing, continued to steamroll through her competition, adding yet another win to her already illustrious and hyped career. Behind Moore, Leila Hurst, Nage Melamed and Catherine Clark would fight their way to respectable finishes.

Once regarded as the wave all others are measured against, Sunset Beach hasn’t necessarily been the peak du jour of the current crop of progressive surfing. But at the historic venue kid’s proved that Sunset can be just as rippable as Rocky’s, if not more so. Frontside wafts, throw-tail reverses, and the occasional man hack were weaved through out each heat with a surgical precision.

“I love coming out to Hawai‘i. Yeah, Sunset’s a tricky wave, but it gets pretty fun,” said Newport Beach’s Andrew Doheny.”

It’s definitely a lot bigger than it looks from here.” Although Doheny wouldn’t progress to the final, his surfing was the stuff of legends today as he proved he’s more than capable than just getting lofty at 54th.

With the final approaching, the Hawaiian surfers placed three out of four surfers in the main heat. Kaua‘i’s Alex Smith and Maui’s Albee Layer took on Oahu’s Kiron Jabour and California’s Cory Arrambide. Uncharacteristic of the day, the final went flat for the first 10 minutes, leaving Cory Arrambide nestled in first place with two small-wave scores under his belt. But as the clock ticked away, a set approached and Haleiwa’s own Kiron Jabour did the island proud and tore the opening wave of the lone set a new one, earning himself a win and the admiration of the best young surfers in the country. Arrambide would take second, Layer third, and Smith fourth.

And to think, this is just an appetizer of what’s to come.

Photo: Heff

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 86

RESULTS: MENS 1st place: Kiron Jabour 2nd place: Albee Layer 3rd place: Cory Arrambide 4th place: Alex Smith

top: Is there anything she can’t do? Carissa Moore, exceeding expectations; bottom: Event winner Kiron Jabour, en route to a fruitful career.

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1st place: Carissa Moore 2nd place: Leila Hurst 3rd place: Nage Melamed 4th place: Catherine Clark

Photo: Bernie Baker

WOMENS

GROM REPORT

UNCLES: TONY, SHANE, GAVIN, MIKE, DEREK, AND UNCLE GARRETT Photo: peperomo.com

WORD ASSOCIATION: LANDON MCNAMARA

We gave him one word and he answered with whatever came to mind. Truth be told, it’s a simple game with telling results. See how the mind of Landon McNamara, one of Hawaii’s rising juniors, truly operates below.

Seq: Peperomo.com

TOW SURFING: UNCLE GARRETT

FRIGID WATER: SANTA CRUZ

SCAR TISSUE: BALI REEF

HUGS: MOM

BLACK: MY FRIEND EALA 90

FREE SURF MAGAZ I NE . COM

REGGAE MUSIC: BOB MARLEY

LEILA HURST THE FACE OF WHAT’S TO COME

Photo: Rick Hurst

SHE RIPS

Kauai’s Leila Hurst may not be the most recognizable female of the current crop of women dominating the scene in Hawaii, but in the next year, if she continues on the warpath that she’s currently trotting along, there’s a damn fine chance that you will know her name and know it well. She’s got the talent, the charisma, and drive to be cutting through the World Tour with reckless abandon in no time.

Recently, we spoke to Leila and asked her some random questions. Her answers were telling, kind of...

So what’s the best part about being a female surfer today and why?

The best thing about being a female surfer today is being able to travel and meet so many different people. It’s great because all the guys are usually really nice to the girls in the water and let us get waves.

Is there a downside?

The worst thing about being a female surfer is having to always fix your bikini and making sure it’s not falling off while you’re in the water.

In your eyes, who’s the best female surfer today and why?

Stephanie Gilmore is my favorite female surfer, she has such an amazing style and it always blows my mind to watch her surf.

I hear good things about the world. Moving along, where do you see women’s surfing in 10 years?

Right now women’s surfing is not doing so well, but hopefully it will still be a big sport when that time comes around.

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Photo: Heff

Yeah, she’s okay. I heard she’s never been on a real date though.

That must suck. But more about you. So where do you see yourself in 10 years?

Hopefully in 10 years I will be on the C.T. and having a blast traveling the world!

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Flynn Novak (4) has been seen spotted ripping the living hell out of the North Shore lately. We know it’s nothing new, but the fact that Flynn was doing so on a quiver of pearly white T & C sleds led us to realize that Flynn picked up a new sponsor. Definitely a good move for both parties.

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FREE PLUGS

5 Coco Ho

6 Quiksilver Thailand Surf Series The North Shore’s own Coco Ho (5) has won the women’s WQS this year, all without breaking a sweat. “I wasn’t really even trying to win the ’QS this year or anything, it just sort of happened,” said Ho. But hey, those things do tend to “just happen” when you surf as good as Coco.

In the realm of we couldn’t be more stoked if it were our own kid who qualified, Carissa Moore will be joining the ranks of the World Tour elite in 2010 thanks to her third-place finish on the WQS. God speed to her competition next year.

Apparently, the swell of the decade wiped out the contest site of the Rip Curl Search World Tour event at Peniche, Portugal two days into the holding period. Judging from the photos it looked like a hurricane tore through the beachhead.

Thought there was no surf in Thailand? Think again. Thanks to the good folks at Quik, local Thai surfers competed in the second event of the Quiksilver Thailand Surf Series (6) “King of the Jungle event at Kamala Beach Phuket.

Surfers from Thailand, Hawaii, Australia, Japan, Indonesia and the USA participated in four divisions. It's always refreshing to see groms stoked on surfing, no matter what corner of the earth they hail from.”

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Guy Hagi

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THE WEATHER GUY We know him as the face of Hawaii’s weather. When he tells us it’ll rain, we pack an umbrealla. When he tells us there’s a 10-foot northwest, we put the kids to bed, wax up the 6’8” and wake up early. But who knew that Guy Hagi, the unmistakable weatherman from KGMB, gets as frothed at the rest of us when the buoys strain?

Hagi, who grew up in Honolulu cutting his teeth at Bowls and the beachpark, has been a surfer’s surfer well before he became interested in meteorology. As the Rip Curl rep for Hawaii, Hagi lived, breathed and ate all things surfing in Hawaii for more than a decade. It was a job he loved and a job that kept him in the water.

“I worked in the surf industry long before I worked in a newsroom,” says Hagi from the KGMB studio. “I’ve been a surfer my whole life, and I still surf three to four times a week.”

The man speaks the truth. During our interview, the faint dust of Ala Moana saltwater still lingered on his skin. Although the life of a weatherman carries with it a hefty load of long hours in the office, he’s still as stoked as ever to get wet.

“Right now, I got this new Tokoro and I just can’t wait to try it out on the North Shore this winter,” he says with a twinkle in his eye. The next time you flip through the news and Hagi is forecasting a solid swell, you’d be wise to believe him, because this weatherman is committed to his call. —Jeff Mull

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DISTRIBUTION

Photo: Bill Taylor

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Big Island: Hilo: Big Island Surf-Prince Kuhio Plaza, Big Island Surf-Bayfront, Hilo Surfboard Company, Local Style, Orchidland Surfboards Kona: 808 Surf & Skate, A‘ama Surf & Sport, Big Island Surf, Conscious Riddims Records Inc., Hawaii Lifeguards, Honolua Surf Co., Honolua Wahine, Kahalu‘u Bay Oshima Surf, Killer Tacos, Kona Boyz, Miller’s Surf & Sport, Pacific Vibrations, Surf & Sea, World Core Pahoa: Jeff Hunt Surfboards, Kona Boyz Waimea: Big Island Surf Kaua‘i: Hanalei: Bamboo Bamboo, Bikini Room, Hanalei Backdoor, Hanalei Surf Company, Mormaii, Kai Kane Princeville: Paradise Kilauea: Kilauea Bakery Kapaa: Tamba, M. Miura, The Wave Wailua: Chicks Who Rip, Kauai Surf Company, Play Dirty, Underwater Lihue: Deja Vu, Honolua Surf Co., Hawaiian Blades, Jamba Juice Poipu: Aloha Surf Shop, Honolua Surf Co., Nukumoi, Progressive Expressions Kalaheo: Kaleheo Steak House Ele Ele: Grinds Cafè Hanapepe: Dr. Ding MAINLAND: Hermosa/Manhattan Beach: Becker Surfboards, ET Surf, Spyder Surfboards, Surf Concepts Gardena: Bob's Hawaiian Style Restaurant, Cherrystone's, Tapioca Express Huntington Beach: Huntington Surf and Sport, Jack's Surfboards, Wahoo's Fish Taco Torrence: Wahoo's Fish Taco San Diego: Beachbreak CafĂŠ Oceanside, Buccaneer Beach, Carlsbad Pipelines Surf Shop, Calypso, Encinitas Surfboards, Honey’s CafĂŠ, Kaisen Sushi, Kealani’s Restaurant Oceanside/Encinitas, JamRoc Encinitas, Le Papagayo, Leucadia Surf Shop, Mitches Surf, Nautical Bean, Pannikan Coffee shop, Pizza Port-Solana/Carlsbad/San Clemente, Rusty Surf Shop Del Mar, Stratford CafĂŠ Del Mar, SurfrideOceanside/Solana Beach, Sushi on the Rock La Costa, Swami’s CafĂŠ-Oceanside Harbor, UNIV Boutique Encinitas

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Mikey B. powering through some sweet powder.

Photo: Phil Wigglesworth

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LAST LOOK

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Kawai Lindo, sequentially shacked

Photo: Latronic

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