Surf till you bleed pg. 38
T h e c o m e b a c k
Free in Hawai‘i
Andy Irons Photo: Heff
VOLUME 6 NUMBER 12
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True Aloha Spirit.
Dustin Barca in the Barca boardshort
A tribute to King Kaumuali’i of Kauai. The guardian of good spirits. Tattooed tribal patterns of Hawaiian heritage. Kukui nuts and sugar cane juice tapped into the skin. These are the things that represent the true aloha spirit. A frame of mind that Dustin Barca carries with him beyond the islands.
A respect for his culture and for others. We have taken these cues and helped Dustin design a boardshort in this image. Something that his friends and family will be proud of. Simply named, the Barca boardshort.
Contents FSM V6#12 DECEMBER
Gabriel Villiran, Reef Mcintosh, table for two.
Is Hank Gaskell the best surfer without a sponsor? Turn to page 44 to find out.
Bigger, Better, Faster, Stronger Set Adrift
We interview Rob Machado on his new film, The Drifter, page 40 18
F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M
Photo: Latronic
The 2009 Verizon Wireless Hawai‘i Junior surf team, page 48
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SURF ALl DAY PLAY ALL NIGHT Contents FSM V6#12
10 22 24 26 28 32
Free Parking: Jamie O'Brien On the Cover: A.I.'s Revenge Masthead Editor’s Note: Mister Ed Speaks Eh Howzit Free-Time Gallery Inside Sections A Look Back with Meagan Abubo // Sounds
80 94
Snow Days News & Events X cel Pro and groms that surf
100 102 106 108
hawaiimusicsupply.com
808.622.8000 20
F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
// Return of AI // ASP Shuffle // Surf Till You Bleed // Is this too much for you? // Modern Collective is better than you think
better than you...almost
Spot Light We bring the Payne Free Plugs Pau Hana Chris Rehrer serves up the goods Last Look:
To l l Fre e : ( 8 0 0 ) 4 4 3 - 5 6 5 6
TEAMRIDER
Kapono Nahina
X ander
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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Flojos.com
Flojos@Flojos.com
Photo: Dahlin
On the cover
EcoUsable
A great gift for the holidays
Photo: Heff
FIND US AT FOODLAND
the people’s hero
As we subtly mentioned on the cover, the loose theme binding this month’s issue together is centered around the Art of the Comeback. And right now, deep in the trenches of winter, when we utter the word “comeback” our minds instantly turn to Andy Irons. And it’s easy to see why. In the past few months an in shape and in-form A.I. has been spotted tearing the living hell out of the North Shore, leaving more than one media pundit feverishly plotting his comeback in 2010. As die-hard fans of Andy, with nearly a decade and a half of turning heads on the North Shore, we’ve learned one simple truth: The man produces. When Andy surfs, we shoot. Posted on the beach, his lens trained like a sniper to Andy, FREESURF photo editor Tony Heff snapped his shutter on this unique gem of a right-hander at Backdoor. Reportedly, it was a session that not many of his pro surfing brethren wanted a part of, the meaty pits at Backdoor looking downright treacherous and a bit too much of a gamble for the countless pros watching from the beach. The session, a quick afternoon of a hell-raiser with Reef McIntosh and Matt Archbold, proved productive for Andy as he ducked into a few heavers, looking just a stylish as ever and earned himself his third FREESURF cover in the process. Moving forward into 2010 and Andy’s poised to make one of the greatest comebacks in surfing’s history. He’s done it before—three times to be exact—and we’re betting that Andy can do it again. Here’s to the comeback.
On the Cover: Andy Irons photo: Heff Proud partners of the Plastic Free Hawaii Coalition
Ola Eleogram Wears the Hawaii Consultant
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HAWAII 2
C O N S U LTA N T
A product of Manulele, Inc. Volume 6 • Number 12 Publisher Mike Latronic
Editorial Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter
Free Thinkers Beau Flemister, Drewtoonz, Jack Kittinger, Siri Masterson, Noa Myers, Manny Pangilinan, Tom Stone
Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Bernie Baker, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock
Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Mark Berkowitz, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Darin Crawford, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Damea Dorsey, Willi Edwards, Brandon Ells, Beau Flemister, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Kirby Fukunaga, Ryan Gamma, Gordinho, Chris Hagan, John Helper, Jon Huberman, Rick Hurst, Buzzy Kerbox, Danny Kim, Kin Kimoto, Peter King, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Christian Peralta, Steve Robertson, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Paul Teruya, Jimmy Wilson
Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson
Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURFon the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.
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DIGGING DEEP Everybody loves a comeback. An underdog. Someone on the ropes. It helps us reflect on the human condition and what it really takes to overcome adversity. When we see a boxer—cut, bleeding, bruised—but still digging deep, we see a little bit of ourselves in their shoes. Granted, most of aren’t going to step in the ring any time soon, but we’re all faced with challenges on an everyday basis. Things that force us to dig deep. Maybe it’s getting up an hour earlier and squeezing in a few dawn patrols throughout the work week, or maybe it’s something as simple as being a bit more productive at work, it could be argued that our lives are defined by adversity and how we react to it. We can all relate to being on the ropes. A wise man once told me that life is made up of 10 percent what happens to you and 90 percent of how you react to it. At least that’s how I define living a good life, overcoming all of the shitty things that she’s constantly hurling at you. That’s a life worth living. With the idea of an issue centered on the art of a “comeback” we looked at a few of the figures in the surf realm putting their nose to the grindstone and making it happen. If you’re looking for a little inspiration in our niche society, look no further than Hank Gaskell. After loosing a sponsor, a result of the recession, Hank was left with a few options: He could give up the dream of being a pro and get a day job like the rest of us…or he could bite his lip, grit his teeth, throwdown his savings on a winter quiver and get busy making a comeback. One event win at Sunset and a flurry of media attention later, and Hank’s looking poised for redemption. And then there’s Andy. If we could bottle raw ambition, talent and character in one person, it would look something like A.I. A three-time world champ, the only person able to stand toe-to-toe with Slater and leave him figuratively bloodied and battered, Andy feels like one of us. Slater may be the Goliath, but Andy is our David. But after more than a decade on tour, Andy needed a break and unfortunately, “break” often precedes a full-fledged retirement. Would Andy come back… could Andy come back? We think so. Here’s to the underdog in all of us.
Photo: Heff
EDITOR'S NOTE
lucylove.com
inside section
Off the Map Indonesia
Photo: Flemister
by Beau flemister
“I think…something’s…going on,” I remember uttering to a couple friends. We were chatting in the early evening on the balcony of Rafael’s Place—a twostory surf camp house in Lagundri Bay, Nias. I had just seen the family across the street flee abruptly from their house and congregate in the middle of the road. Panicking. Yelling. “Hey, do feel that?” another friend said. I glanced down and the concrete railing seemed to be wobbling a bit. “Earthquake!” and we all flew down the stairs to the open road. The look on the faces of the local people was pure, uninhibited fear. Not surprising as Nias, in a matter of the last five years has undergone two catastrophic earthquakes in ’05 and’06 and of course the obliterating devastation of the 2004 South Asia tsunami. Some villagers had already run up the nearest hill to seek higher ground, children in tow and essential belongings in hand. But by dinner that night someone who had been to an Internet café
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a little earlier told us where the earthquake had really done the damage. A 7.6 earthquake had occurred that evening— around the same time that everyone felt the tremor five hundred miles away in Nias—its epicenter just off the port city and capital of West Sumatra: Padang. Every surfer going to the Mentawais leaves and comes back through this bustling city. At the moment I write this, Padang looks like a war zone. Countless buildings have collapsed, mostly in the busy central commercial market place, leaving countless dead. Tens of thousands of people in the area have are instantly homeless. Water mains are ruined. Power lines are down. Electricity is out. Ambacang Hotel, a popular hangout for surfers, has collapsed. Help is on the scene. Red Cross and Red
Crescent organizations are on the ground, as well as the Indonesian army, and many other NGOs including Surf Aid International. Food, clean water, tents, tarps, sleeping mats, tool kits, medical, and other supplies are being distributed widely. But factors like collapsed bridges, downed phone lines, and a lack of fuel has made the situation, to say the least, extremely challenging. Surf Aid has just launched the Surf Aid Padang Earthquake Relief Appeal, and donations can be made to this legitimate organization (already on the scene giving crucial help to Indonesians) by visiting their website at Surfaidinternational.org. Presently, I watch the update now from a somber hotel lobby in Medan, North Sumatra, fresh off the morning flight from Nias. President Obama just flashed on the screen, pledging America’s apologies and support towards the tragedy.
“I glanced down and the concrete railing seemed to be wobbling a bit.”
Modern Collective Hawaii Premiere In the end, it proved worthy of the hype. Undoubtedly, there will be those that disagree, but the Modern Collective was the most awe-inspiring surf film I’ve laid my eyes on in quite some time. It was go-for-broke, 21st-century surfing defined. As the editorial debut of Kai Neville, a Taylor Steele protégé, the media had been hyping this movie to the degree where it bordered on the absurd. But Neville delivered, showcasing the very tip of the spear of progressive surfing with quick, edgy edits, a thumping soundtrack, and most of all, the best surfing ever captured on film. Held al fresco, at Town’s Hawaiian South Shore, the movie left the audience wide-eyed and slack jawed throughout its duration. Ever watch a skate video where a guy is completely committed to sticking some monstrous rail for his section? Time and again, the guy falls up short and sacrifices his body. The Modern Collective feels like that. Jordy Smith, God bless that giant of a Zaffa, doesn’t give an inch and throws down a litany of knee-shattering and potentially career-ending airs, trying to stick everyone of them. No doubt his team managers cringed at his commitment in the film more than once. And although the likes of Dane Reynolds, Mitch Coleborn, Yadin Nicol and the rest of the crew all surfed on another level from their counterparts, no one could touch Jordy. As a whole the film will be the new gauge to measure the limits of modern-day surfing and is a must-watch on every level. Go watch it. Now.
T h e L az y M an ’ s G ui d e t o t h is I ssue A backside, Snap! // P. 28 redemption // P. 26 the best surfers in 2020 // P. 48 A legend // P. 58 People feeding people // P. 108 Rob Machado // P. 40 Snow…the other water // p. 80 Modern Collective will be worthy of the hype // Dusty Payne will qualify
Photo: Rock
inside section
Photo: Latronic
inside section
the look back: megan abubo Interview by Bernie Baker
I WAS PROBABLY one of the first young girls to get paid to do the tour. I was 16 and I was given money to travel and compete. It wasn’t a lot, but it was enough to buy my plane tickets and that was almost unheard of back then. RELL SUNN was the one of the last people who I looked up to who was a true “water woman.” Look at what she did with her life and how many different directions she went with her career. I DON’T KNOW IF IT’S TRUE for everyone, but as a woman you get to a certain age in your life and you no longer have this utter “selfishness” about you and your world. Everyone’s a little different but I think for women when you get into your 30s and you’ve been competing for so long, like I have, and things change. I’ve been on the tour since I was in 10th grade! Back then there was no juniors divisions, you just jumped from amateurs to full-on pro. My first heat out there was against Lisa Andersen at the U.S. Open when she won her first world title. That’s just the way it was.
WE JUST DREAMED BACK THEN. There were no wildcards in the events back when I first started. I went on the first all girls’ surf trip, to Samoa. And that was the first one of its kind other than to Tavarua. Like getting paid to freesurf, the clothing styles, surf trips, it was all just a big dream when I started out. I DON’T HAVE A SPONSOR FOR 2010 and I’m fine with that. For the last year or two I’ve been working with the kids with Rainos (Hayes) and Kahea (Hart) even though I was on the World Tour full time. I went to Ecuador with our team and it was great, sort of gearing myself up for the future and a new direction and job or some kind of a future outside of wearing a competition jersey all the time for work. I don’t have a college degree, but I do know surfing and I know competition and what it takes to stay at the top. RIGHT NOW the women’s surfing market is mostly geared toward the 12-year-old crowd.
But, I can coach them and be a good role model. It’s hard to get a company to believe in you for that roll and I think you have to look at different kinds of companies when you get older. There are companies out there who know that you can have an impact on a 35-year-old mom of a 10-year-old. It’s all about influencing people from a different role than being just a competitor in the water. There haven’t been a lot of people who have been able to do that. I’M GOING BACK TO SCHOOL this coming spring and getting a degree in exercise science and add that to all that I know and can offer to a company, so I can put something together for all of the young girls who are stepping into the tour but their parents can’t keep traveling with them any longer. Their parents are over it, they’re not going to travel anymore, but the girls aren’t even old enough to rent a car yet when they go somewhere to compete! These girls aren’t ready yet to be on their own, but they’re ready to get out there and compete as adults and with all the pressure that comes with that.
and the World Tour will never be the same // Somehow, someway, that rock on the inside of Rocky Rights will just go away // Sunset will continue to
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inside section
Surf Till You Bleed Dr. Thomas Potter, MD, Dermatologist
Illustration Drewtoonz
It’s a telltale sign that you’ve been surfing your brains out. A raw, swollen stomach, covered in what has affectionately been known as “surf rash.” A painful badge of honor. But is there really any danger in surfing till you bleed? We sat down with Doctor Tom Potter, a surfer and dermatologist, to see if we’re doing any damage.
FreeSurf: So we know it hurts when we surf too much, but what in the hell is surf rash really? Dr. Potter: It’s basically just irritation on your stomach from the wax. Some people are allergic to surf wax, which would make it worse. The other thing that really seems to cause a bad surf rash are the grips on those SUP boards. Just another danger to SUP surfing. FS: As a dermatologist, what’s the worst case you’ve ever seen? DP: I’ve seen some pretty bad cases but the worst one that I’ve ever seen was actually this summer on a surf trip I went on to Mexico. This guy I was surfing with had it so bad it literally looked like it was raw…it looked like he just fell off his bike right on his stomach on cement. Worst rash ever. FS: Is there really any harm in getting a bad rash? DP: No, not really. It’s basically just cosmetic. Yeah, it can get infected, but for the most part it’s nothing to really sweat. Just tough it out. FS: So if it’s really bad, what’s the best thing to do? DP: Not really too much. Just throw some antibiotic on there or maybe some aloe. You should be good. Just be careful not to let your wax get too dirty. You could get an infection if your wax is nasty and you get a bad rash.
scare the living shit out of us // Beau Flemister will finally come back to us.
inside section
After more than a decade of surf stardom, The Drifter is looking for some peace of mind. For Rob Machado, it takes six months of exploring the islands of Indonesia on a Honda CB100 with nothing more than his board(s) and a tent (he never seems to change wardrobe). This movie follows Rob's travels through Indo as a means to break away from the mundane life of a Western surfer and find something wholesome and inspiring. Part documentary, part surf movie, part Hollywood indy flick, The Drifter paints a vibrant portrait of Rob Machado’s journey to escape the “scene” and find some simplicity. Beginning in Bali, Machado soon realizes this fast-paced first stop in Indo is not the place for him. It’s not long before Machado trades in his phone for a motorcycle giving him the tool to escape and find the solace he’s desperately looking for.
Not to be overlooked in the plot are the amazing waves Rob scores along the way. Ignoring all options of going right, Machado demonstrates his mastery of forehand wave-riding in some of the best Indo swells of the season. And while this film is obviously about Rob, look for surf cameos from a few friends. The production team of this project included longtime friend and surf video guru, Taylor Steele, and Hollywood cinematographer Todd Heater along with some backing from production giant Warner Brothers. Using the heralded RED camera, the crew captures the entire tale with a stunning film-like quality that pulls you into each scene. While this movie appeals to a both a surf and non-surf infused audience, it may loose the attention of some. However, nice shots, great surfing, a good story with music to match make this film well worth the watch. —Tyler Rock
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Photos: Dustin Humphrey /Reel Sessions ©
drifting
questioning Rob
Our humble words not enough? see what Rob says below FREESURF: When we were watching the film, we were wondering what was natural and what was scripted. Rob Machado: Yeah, the movie wasn’t originally set to be scripted at all, but in the end we had to re-shoot a few of the things that did actually happen when the cameras weren’t around. But it wasn’t really a scripted theme. FS: Who would you say the target audience was for the film? RM: I think the movie appealed to a pretty large group. Your hardcore surfer could get into it and so could someone who’s not super familiar with the sport. It’s more about my experiences out of the water, really. FS: Were you happy with the finished result? RM: Overall yeah, for sure. It was definitely a learning experience and a lot of work. But at the end of the day we have a movie I’m proud of.
inside section
Sounds from the FS Crew: What gets us stoked to surf
Broken Social Scene: Jeff Mull, Editor Sergio Mendes, Richard Hutter, Art Dir.
The Strokes: Tony Heff, Photo Ed
Avenged Sevenfold: Tyler Rock, Video Dir.
Fatboy Slim, Brandon Ells, Video Asst.
Andy’s 62 Return We want Andy Back. And according to a Web poll on Freesurfmagazine.com, so do our readers.
percent of readers think AI will make a comeback next year.
12.5 25 percent think he’s retired for good from the Tour.
percent think that he’s more than capable, but he won’t.
The ASP Shuffle
We knew it’s been a longtime coming, but the ASP recently announced an overhaul regarding the way business is conducted on the World Tour and the WQS. Without further ado, say hello to the 2010 World Tour.
• Beginning in 2010, the ASP will move from the current two-tier format to an allinclusive one-world rating format where both ASP World Tour and ASP World Qualifying Series events will be used to determine a surfer’s rating. • Halfway through the 2010 season, the ASP World Tour field will be reduced from the current 45-man-plus-three-wildcards format to a 32-man plus four wildcards field. • Base prize money for the ASP World Tour events will increase from the current U.S. $340,000 to U.S. $400,000 in 2010. On the ASP Women’s World Tour, total prize pool will increase from US$630,000 to $800,000 in 2010. • In addition to the increase in prize money, the ASP will institute an increase in surfer benefits that include full insurance coverage as well as a pension plan. • The third major change to be activated in 2010 is the evolution of the ASP Board structure. Transitioning from the current 5-person (1 chairman, 2 event and 2 surfer) model, the new ASP Board Structure will consist of three independents, two events and two surfers – including a women’s representative.
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Whatevas
The Rail to Redemption HAnk Gaskell speaks
There is no mold for Hank Gaskell. In an environment marked by swaggering pros and swollen egos, Hank’s set a reputation for himself over the years through his trademarked humility and composure. He’s garnered a few covers and numerous spreads with his knack for progressive surfing and clean lines acting as the siren’s call for photo eds the world over. It was the good life. But recently, like so many of us, Hank fell victim to the hard times and lost his sponsorship with Hurley after being with the brand since its inception. It stung, but after spending the last of his savings on a winter quiver, the Hana native set his sights on redemption. He put his nose to the grindstone and went to work proving to the industry that he remains one of Hawai‘i’s best, and most versatile, surfers. At the Xcel Pro, Gaskell’s work ethic paid off. He won the event outright, besting Pancho and other North Shore heavy-hitters in the process. Redemption realized. On the heels of his win, we caught up with Hank to talk about the loss, the win and where he’s going next. FREESURF: It’s been a pretty difficult year for a lot of surfers, yourself included, with sponsorships falling through. Was it pretty gratifying to win out at Sunset after the past year? Hank Gaskell: Yeah, it was pretty cool winning out there. I didn’t even know that I won until the end when we were all on the podium. I thought that Pancho had won. It was pretty amazing. But if I was still sponsored, I don’t think I would have won it. It helped push me to train and work that much harder. FREESURF: Sunset’s not an easy place to win an event. Have you spent a lot of time honing your act out there? HG: Yeah, I really like surfing Sunset. I’ve pretty much been surfing out there since I was around, like, 14 or so. I’ve had really good coaches who helped me out when I surf there, too. Rainos Hayes has really helped me out a lot. FREESURF: After your win at the Xcel Pro, you must have garnered some attention from sponsors, right? HG: Well, not really. I got one email, but that’s as far it is right now. So we’ll see. FREESURF: So what’s the past year been like for you? HG: It’s been pretty mellow. I went on a trip to Chile and then to California. That win came at a good time. I spent some of my last money on getting a quiver so this is a good start.
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Photo: Heff
FREESURF: And how about looking forward. Where do you see yourself in the next few months heading into high season on the North Shore? HG: I’ll be living at home on Maui, hanging out with my girlfriend. I’ll fly over for events and good swells. But yeah, just surfing, hopefully get some good waves at Pipe.
Top the
of the World
All photos: Heff
Tea m Ha w ai ‘ i P r epa r e s t o Ta k e o n t h e G l o b e
I
t’s a double-edged sword being at the top of the world. The view is breathtaking indeed, but the shadows never seem to be more than a step away. With a silver-medal team showing and an individual gold last year at the Quiksilver ISA World Junior Games in Ecuador, Hawaii has all of the benefits of confidence that accompany taking home two medals as well as the drawback of being one of the teams the rest of the world has in their sights going into the 2010 games in New Zealand. Two sides to every coin. It’s a double-edged sword being at the top of the world. The view is breathtaking indeed, but the shadows never seem to be more than a step away. With a silver-medal team showing and an individual gold last year at the Quiksilver ISA World Junior Games in Ecuador, Hawaii has all of the benefits of confidence that accompany taking home two medals as well as the drawback of being one of the teams the rest of the world has in their sights going into the 2010 games in New Zealand. Two sides to every coin. Looking back to Ecuador and we’ll never forget the iconic image of Keanu Asing, just minutes after securing his gold medal, draped in a Hawaiian flag and being chaired up the beach by his friends and fellow teammates. Nor can we forget the team’s effort as a whole, cutting their way through the rest of the world to a silver finish; each surfer doing their part for the team. But as we’ve mentioned before, heavy is the head that wears the crown. The prestige of gold and silver can only last until the next event. Looking ahead to New Zealand and we’ve got a target on our back. So what do you do to ensure your place at the top? You listen to your coaches and train until it hurts. And then you train some more. “We’ve been doing a lot of training sessions on an Outer Island and I can tell you that this year’s team is very
talented and looks really good. We’re a young team but they have a good bond,” said head coach Rainos Hayes. Rainos speaks the truth. We’ve seen video sessions of the beach workouts and mock heats. The kids are looking Ginsu sharp. And we’ve seen what the older team members were capable last year, but this year, led by the veterans of games past, the up-and-coming crop of under 16 year olds is showing all of the potential to ensure Hawaii a place on the podium for years to come. Between the likes of Koa Smith, Ian Gentil and others still coming into their own, the future looks bright enough to burn retinas. And then there are the ladies. A true force to be reckoned with, led by Malia Manuel, a past U.S. Open champ and one of the most graceful of female rippers alive today, and the likes of West Side shredder Alessa Quizon, you can sleep easy knowing that the women will have their competitions shaking in their singlets come time for the games in New Zealand. Moving forward to the 2010 games and one thing is abundantly clear: this year’s Verizon Wireless Junior Surf Team is taking nothing for granted and training like there’s no tomorrow. As a whole, we’re wielding some heavy hitters and some rookies, so let us be the first to introduce you to the 2010 Verizon Wireless Hawaii Surf Team. Be warned, they’ve tasted success before, and now they want some more.
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Kaimana Jaquias
As the son of one of Hawaii’s greatest surfers, Kaimana Jaquias was born into surfing royalty. But it’s not something he’s let go to his head. Ever cordial and well-spoken, Kaimana opts to let his seamless approach to dismantling a heat do the talking. A surfer’s surfer and a great team player, Kaimana is part of the glue that bonds this year’s team.
Tanner Hendrickson
Hailing from the Valley Isle, Tanner’s got a pedigree that’s unparalled in the surf world with the likes of Dusty Payne and Kai Barger paving the way before him. Furthermore, it doesn’t hurt that Tanner’s a surgeon on his forehand, adept with an array of fin-ditches and airs. Look for Tanner to showcase his progressive surfing approach in New Zealand.
Zeke Lau Sporting a bit of cover on his dome, Honolulu’s Zeke Lau will be deploying to New Zealand with a healthy dose of talent, charisma, and flair. As one of the preeminent members of the HI squad, expect Zeke to be one of the leaders of the team both in and out of the water.
Keanu Asing Ewa Beach’s Keanu Asing may very well be the most talked about junior coming out of Hawaii this year. Name a domestic event this year and there’s a good chance that he won the damn thing. Ever levelheaded, Asing’s greatest strengths aren’t only on his rail, but in his mind. Last year, Asing took home the gold in Ecuador, proof to the point that the kid’s got nerves of steel come crunch time.
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HAWAII JUNIOR SURF TEAM
Leila Hurst Another young woman with a bright future ahead of her, Kauai’s Leila Hurst has been silently cutting through the amateur ranks for a few years now, building a reputation based on smart performances and solid surfing. Expect Leila to do just that against her competition in New Zealand.
Alessa Quizon There’s no disputing that Alessa Quizon is one of the most talented female surfers calling Hawaii home today. Time and again, she’s proved that she can hang, and win, against the best in the business. As a goofyfoot with an illustrative forehand approach, Alessa’s style will fit nicely against the open-faced lefts that are known to inhabit New Zealand.
Nage Melamed
In the last two year’s Kauai’s Nage Melamed has become a beacon in the Outer Island surf scene, proving that the talent pool on Kauai runs deep. In a jersey, Nage has proven herself a formidable opponent against anyone, showcasing her solid talent with her chess-like approach to winning a heat. Keep an eye on Nage to get the job done when it’s her turn to don a singlet.
Malia Manuel In a word “butter.” One of the many rising stars coming from the Garden Island, Malia Manuel is the Outer Island answer to the likes of Carissa Moore and Coco Ho. On her forehand, she’s as graceful as any and her backhand attack is razor sharp and as crisp as a fresh $20 bill. Couple her talent in the water with her competitive savvy in a heat and Malia will turn some heads in New Zealand. We guarantee it.
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HAWAII JUNIOR SURF TEAM Isaiah Moniz As one of the Moniz boys, Isaiah has become a solid surfer in his own right and will prove to be a catalyst to this year’s world team on a number of levels. Whether it be building morale among the team or throwing fans in a jersey, Isaiah is a pillar of this year’s squad.
Photo: Baeseman
Ian Gentil Already heralded as one of the most talented young surfers alive today, Maui’s Ian Gentil is quickly becoming the stuff of legends in gromdom. The scary thing is that he’s completely worthy of all the hype. As one of the younger members on the team, look to Ian to cement the already rocksolid reputation of Hawai‘i’s groms when they go overseas.
Kane Daly Kane Daly really came into his own this year and wowed the team coaches enough to earn himself one of the coveted spots on this year’s roster. The goofy-foot with the smooth-as-butter style has been gaining a reputation as a viable threat from many of his junior counterparts in the past 12 months. And trust us, it’s warranted. The kid rips. Hard.
Koa Smith They don’t come much more charismatic than Kauai’s Koa Smith. As the face of his generation, Koa’s become as regarded for his sense of humor and personality outside of the water as he in the lineup. Get used to seeing this kid’s mug, cause Koa Smith aint going anywhere but up.
Team workout/ team work.
Coach Rainos, words of wisdom.
Keanu Asing ready to earn it.
The Development Team
Jesse Guglielmana
Kaoli Kahukuloa
Verizon Wireless Hawaii Junior Surf Team Captains: Rainos Hayes, Bert Ishimaru, Kahea Hart and Megan Abubo.
“I’ve been coaching the Hawai‘i World Team on and off for a long time, and this is one of the most exciting teams we’ve ever had. These kids are just so talented.”
Tatiana Westin-Webb Beach Clean up at Pinetrees
—Bert Ishimaru
HAWAII JUNIOR SURF TEAM
Brianna Cope
Mahina Maeda
Photo: Dan Merkel/A-Frame
InvItees Andy Irons, Brian Keaulana, Brock Little, Bruce Irons, Carlos Burle, Clyde Aikau, Darryl Virostko, Greg Long, Jamie O’Brien, Jamie Sterling, Kelly Slater, Keone Downing, Makuakai Rothman, Mark Healey, Michael Ho, Noah Johnson, Peter Mel, Reef McIntosh, Ross Clarke-Jones, Rusty Keaulana, Shane Dorian, Sunny Garcia, Titus Kinimaka, Tom Carroll. InternatIonal InvItees Grant Baker, Ibon Amatriain, Ramon Navarro, Takayuki Wakita. alternate InvItees Kala Alexander (Aikau Pick), Pancho Sullivan, Garrett McNamara, Kohl Christensen, Dave Wassel, Keoni Watson, Nathan Fletcher, Ian Walsh, Danny Fuller, Kalani Chapman, Taylor Knox, Chava Greenlee, Jamie Mitchell, Myles Padaca, Tony Moniz, Darrick Doerner, Ken Collins, Ross Williams, Derek Ho, Paul Paterson, Anthony Tashnick, Koby Abberton, Laurent Pujol, Laurie Towner. Honorary InvItees Mark Foo, Todd Chesser, Tiger Espere, Jay Moriarty, Peter Davi, Lester Falatea.
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SIGN UP FOR MOBILE ALERTS AT QUIKSILVER.COM/EDDIE
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How We Honor Hawai‘i’s Most Acclaimed Waterman By Noa Myers
Photo: Jeff Divine
H
istory is rooted in legends. The surfing world has many, and though the modern-day label of the professional is closer to celebrity than it is to fable, all of the heroes of today owe their pop-culture status to those who perpetuated and popularized the sport in its salad days. Standing at the forefront of the mysterious and ac-
claimed is Eddie Aikau. The battle cry, “Eddie Would Go” has pushed more than a few of us over the wire and into the abyss when conditions turn hairy. His name, only to be uttered in reverence, has become synonymous with commitment, heroism, and aloha. Traits like that never die. Every sport has its heroes. We have Eddie.
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He was an embodiment of aloha, carrying the torch once held by his idol, Duke Kahanamoku.
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1995 winner Noah Johnson
Eddie Never Left
Courtesy: Quiksilver.com/eddie
Known for more than just his prowess in the water and his uncanny comfort in colossal surf, Eddie’s grace on guitar and pension for mediation—Eddie helped quell tensions on the North Shore with the Bustin’ Down the Door crew and local heavies in the mid70s—also furthered his reputation. But more importantly, he was an embodiment of aloha, carrying the torch once held by his idol, Duke Kahanamoku, to the rest of the world through his surfing. Of the pyramid of achievements Eddie built, his win at the Duke Classic in 1977 at Sunset Beach cemented his name to the rest of the world. He wasn’t normally a competitive surfer, but a win at Sunset had been the dangling carrot that he’d been chomping at for years. And by the time that fateful day came in ’77 Eddie had been competing in the event for more than a decade. His brother, Clyde, found himself on the podium in 1973, and although Eddie had always performed well, usually placing at least in the quarterfinals and quite often the semifinals, he had never had the result that he knew he was capable of achieving. Being the atypical professional surfer that he was, it’s been said that Eddie didn’t care much for the hotdog surfing style introduced by Australian phenoms Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew and Pete Townend that was popular with the judges. In contrast, Eddie took a mellower approach and preferred to ride the wave as the wave saw fit. But in ‘77, Aikau changed course and began subscribing to the judges’ wishes. With a beautiful blend of powerful carves and impossibly deep tubes, the day belonged to Eddie. Though he didn’t perform as many of the maneuvers, he seemed to read the brail of the notoriously testing and tricky Sunset peak. Unselfish as always, Eddie dedicated his win to his deceased brother Gerald. After reaching the pinnacle of his competitive surfing career in ’77, Eddie began looking for more bricks to pile on his pyramid. A waterman and a proud Hawaiian, Eddie held aspirations, like Duke, to perpetuate the Hawaiian culture. Since surfing had already taken root across the globe, Eddie searched for other opportunities and became involved in the Hokule‘a, a recreation of an ancient Hawaiian sailing canoe set to prove that ancient Polynesian voyagers could have Continued on page 64 Photo: Jeff Divine
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Flea Virostko all in, even if his board isn’t.
Eddie Never Left found their way to Hawai‘i from Tahiti. Though he had missed the vessel’s maiden journey to Tahiti, Eddie had his heart set on being a part of the next voyage. After the Duke Classic, he set all his energy toward training for the Hokule‘a. March 17, 1978. Eddie sets out to sea on board the Hokule‘a. However, the voyage never made it beyond Hawaiian waters and the ship capsized outside of Lanai. A boatman’s first rule is to remain with the vessel, but the crew was concerned that help would never come as they
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sailed void of modern technology. In steps, Eddie pleaded with captain Nainoa Thompson to allow him to take a surfboard and paddle towards land to get help. Thompson resisted at first, but Eddie persisted and eventually won the debate. With the hopes and prayers of the crew and land in sight, Eddie took to the sea. Alone. It would be the last time anyone would see Eddie Aikau. He selflessly embarked on his solo journey into a brutal, churning, choppy sea with the friends that he was trying to save embedded in his mind.
Courtesy: Quiksilver.com/eddie
Though he didn’t perform as many of the maneuvers, he seemed to read the braille of the notoriously testing and tricky Sunset peak. Unselfish as always, Eddie dedicated his win to his deceased brother Gerald.
The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational
Every year, the world’s most renowned big-wave hellmen gather at Waimea Bay for the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Contest, praying from the moment they cast their ceremonial lay into the heart of the bay that Mother Nature cooperates and kicks up a massive swell.
1986-87: The Beginning
On the heels of the 1986 Eddie Aikau Memorial held at Sunset, Quiksilver’s Bruce Raymond and Bob McKnight saw a chance to create a true surfing classic. In concert with the Aikau family, today’s dramatic, humbling and premier bigwave event was mounted. Each Hawaiian winter, a select group of invitees chosen by polling among big-wave experts and riders alike would be welcomed to Waimea Bay at the start of a three-month waiting period. If the Bay called the day, they would be there.
Photo: Jianca Lazarus
“
Noah Johnson under and behind the ledge.
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On February 21, 1987, in onshore 20-foot surf, Eddie’s younger brother and favorite surfing buddy, Clyde Aikau, took the top prize at the inaugural event. Later Clyde would speak of Eddie’s spirit rising to meet him in the lineup in the form of a large turtle, surfacing just before the winning rides.
Three years passed before 25-foot-plus surf and offshore winds provided the awesome canvas for what was possibly the ultimate big-wave test of the time. Late January 1990 saw the Eddie invitees churning into waves that still provide the benchmark for paddle-in standards, with one harrowing drop after another in seemingly every heat. Standouts were Brock Little whose desperate takeoff attempt on a close-to-30footer became the talk of the event. To boot, Richard Schmidt’s “magic carpet” drop, which earned a perfect score, also proved to be just as praiseworthy. To be sure, holding your own in conditions like this takes a cool head. And in 1990, the coolest of all was Honolulu’s Keone Downing, whose finely honed wave selection and positioning won him surfing’s biggest prize, $50,000, on a day that may be equaled, but never surpassed.
1995: Half Hopes
1986 winner Clyde Aikau, poised.
Eddie Never Left Courtesy: Quiksilver.com/eddie
Almost an entire decade passed before the Bay again called the day. In 1995, it sent a little teaser of a message: a massive swell that hit overnight on December 29 and lasted just long enough to hold one of the Eddie’s two rounds of competition. As the swell declined, George Downing decided to call a halt and hope for another day in that year’s waiting period. It never came. The prize money was split between the contestants.
1998: The Storm of the Decade
Ironically enough, in 1998, fueled by an El Nino, the surf maxed out. Unrelenting storms battered the Islands with conditions that proved to be too much, even for Waimea. On January 28, Downing and the invitees watched 30-footplus waves for several hours before it became obvious that the Bay’s door was closed.
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Photo: Latronic
1990: The Bay Goes Haywire
2004 winner Bruce Irons, throttle wide open, racing the dragon.
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1999: The New Breed Speaks
In 1999 the door opened once again for The Eddie, and a new era in big-wave riding came of age. Noah Johnson, a fearless young surfer from the Big Island, stood at the opposite end of the age spectrum to many of his counterparts when Eddie made his ultimate sacrifice. Noah had been just five years old when Eddie perished. Yet on January 1 of 1999, his stocky frame could be seen racing down the heaviest sets of the day. It was the beginning of a new guard of helllmen. Johnson would win the event and prove that big-wave grit finds a way to weave itself into every generation.
2001: The Spirit of The Bay Returns
On January 12, 2001, one man’s enduring patience paid off in spades. Australia’s Ross ClarkeJones had been an invitee to every one of the 14 years that honored Eddie. Long acknowledged as one of the favorites to win, Jones finally achieved his goal with four gleaming rides in clean 20-footplus conditions. Never a spiritually inclined man, “RCJ” later said he’d felt an eerie sense of destiny build through the day, and now understood what Clyde Aikau meant when he spoke of Eddie’s spirit guiding the winner.
2002: The King Claims His Crown
Maxed-out surf returned for January of 2002 as the greatest modern competitor in the sport, Kelly Slater, would find his name etched in history after winning the event. Fresh from an overnight dash from Maui, Slater stepped into the sport’s most dramatic arena and together with his fellow invitees, put on the finest exhibition of big-wave paddle-in surfing in recent memory. Victory came as a surprise to Slater. The man with every title to his name had found himself completely overwhelmed by the honor. “Coming from Florida, I never thought I’d be a big-wave surfer,” he said. “When I think how many good big-wave riders there are in the world, and how few get a chance to go in this event, I’m sure I’ll look back on this with pride.”
2004: The Wave We’ll Never Forget
In 2004, there was very little waiting involved. Just nine days into the holding period, contest director George Downing put competitors on standby. It was no false alarm and on December 15, the Eddie was a “Go.” A thundering 25- to 40-foot swell greeted competitors at dawn, and the two-day advance warning saw Waimea Bay crammed with spec-
tators and photographers well before daylight broke over the horizon. In front of a record North Shore crowd estimated at 20,000 people, Kauai’s Bruce Irons, then at 25, emerged once and for all in surf lore with a brazen performance that will be talked about for years to come. In his first time out at the Bay, in the largest waves of his life, Bruce repeatedly pushed himself over the edge and into the biggest sets of the event, the highlight of which was a perfect 100-point ride that began with a critical take-off on a 35-foot monster. Slipping his way across the Bay, Bruce connected right through to a heaving inside shore-break. As the crowd hooted and hollered, he accelerated into a bone-crushing, closeout tube ride. It was a moment that will remain etched in the minds of all those fortunate enough to stand witness. “It was greater than I could ever have imagined...every bit as big as it looked in all the videos and pictures I saw growing up. To ride the biggest waves of my life, to win a contest in the name of Eddie Aikau...I just don’t know what to say,” Irons said.
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Courtesy: Quiksilver.com/eddie
WINNERS LIST: Noah Johnson dropping in on edge.
1985 - Denton Miyamura (Hawai‘i) 1986 - Clyde Aikau (Hawai‘i) 1990 - Keone Downing (Hawai‘i) 1999 - Noah Johnson (Hawai‘i) 2000 - Ross Clarke-Jones (Australia) 2002 - Kelly Slater (Florida) 2004 – Bruce Irons (Hawai‘i)
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APERTURE
Progress We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, the way we ride waves is changing at supersonic speeds. With the mantra “Picture it. Do it” embedded into the psyche of the likes of Jamie O’Brien and others, we’re clearing new pastures. Switch-foot tuberides, break-neck carves and nosebleed airs, each day brings forth an array of possibilities.
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Seq: Tom Carey
Dusty Payne
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The Rise of the Paddle Love it or hate it, SUP is here is to stay. Not just for the soccer mom looking to shed some pounds, some of Hawaii’s fiercest hellman are sweeping into some of Hawaii’s deadliest waves. Of note, Ikaika Kalama has been ushering in an era of new possibilities with the paddle in tow.
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Photo: Latronic
Ikaika Kalama
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some do it laying down It can't be denied that the current crop of bodyboarders are getting deeper and pushing it harder than ever before. Whether it be at Pipe, Teahuopoo or some hidden slab, these guys are committed. There's not a whole lot of love for our prone brethren, but there they are, pushing the limits solely for the love of the sport. It also can't be overlooked that bodyboarding has laid the framework for modern-day progressive surfing. The Rodeo flip, mutant slabs, and a host of other sponge moves are now at the cutting edge of surfing. we're firm believers in solid surfing—and that's whether you do it on a bodyboard or quad.
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Photo: Baeseman
Spencer Skipper
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Photo: Baeseman
Carissa Moore
Well Hello, Ladies Not since Eve has man been in such envy of a woman. If you’ve seen Coco Ho, Malia Manuel or Carissa Moore, than you know exactly where we’re coming from. The term “surf like a girl”
Malia Manuel
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Coco Ho
Photo: Heff
The ladies have upped the ante.
Photo: Heff
no longer applies. Plain and simple:
pushing it There’s no denying that we’re pushing the limits. And pushing them hard. We sit deeper, drop in later and are risking it all for the glory. Oh the glory. Funny thing is, we’re making a lot of the waves that we once thought
Photo: Latronic
were to ugly to ride.
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Photo: Latronic
The Man, Mark Cunningham
Back to Basics: One wave, one body. Simple and unadulterated, bodysurfing represents surfing in its purest form. Recently, we’ve come to realize just how beneficial bodysurfing can be. May it be conditioning, comfort or being that much closer to the source of energy, bodysurfing has come to hold a special and revered position in our society.
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The Voice Over the course of the past five years, the industry, in step with the rest of the country, has found their green roots. Hawai‘i has a proud history of sustainability, but in the past few years, no one
Photo: Baeseman
has helped keep the islands on a greener course quite like the North Shore’s own Jack Johnson.
Jack Johnson
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The New Breed The current crop of the junior surf scene is laying waste with the old and ushering in the new at unprecedented rate. The junior surfers of today are getting lofty at younger ages, pulling in well before puberty sets on, and pulling in legit contracts all before high
Photos: Baeseman
school. The future looks bright.
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Kalani David above and beyond.
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Snow Days
Because Everyone needs a break from the lineup
By Mike Latronic At the same time of year that large storms in the Pacific Northwest generate massive ocean swells to the Hawaiian Islands, they also send massive amounts of precipitation to the mainland. Surf season in Hawaii means snow season in the mountains and to many crossover surfers, come November, the snow frenzy is on. This year, Freesurf’s annual snow adventure once again visits the Great White North of Canada and I was lucky to go along with a few good bruddahs on one of the handful of adventures. As far as the eye can see verdant green fills the landscape along the coastal road from Vancouver Airport to Whistler Village. The view is striking, even from the roadside seat on Pacific Charter people mover. Green. Dark green pine fills the scene along the mountain road only to be contrasted by the glorious steel blue of the mighty Pacific below.The white jigsaw of snowy mountains reaches sky high and tiny islets speck the many natural bays and coves in that wonderful maze of north coast terrain. White. It is my first visit to Whistler via Vancouver and I am humbled by its natural beauty. Riding the peak-to-peak Gondola between Whistler and Blackcomb only staggers my imagination more. How easy it is nowadays for us to navigate such a massive amount of snowy terrain over miles of steel cable. One can only imagine the way the local Blackfoots must have first inhabited these lands. Trailblazing, mapping, understanding, connecting, and ultimately stewarding such a majestic landscape. Now it’s up to us follow suit, of course, with all of the amenities of the 21st century.
Keone Watson
Mikey B.
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Whi s t l e r b l a c k c o m b With the 2010 Winter Olympics just around the corner, Whistler Mountain commissioned the building of an enormous gondola that would connect Whistler with her sister mountain, Blackcomb. By all accounts, the gondola in an engineering marvel and is said to be the longest one of its kind. It doesn’t hurt that the snow at Whistler was straight-up awesome for the whole trip.
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Photos: Wigglesworth
Revelstoke M o u n ta i n R e s o r t Boasting the tallest vertical setup in North America, Revelstoke Mountain Resort carving tracks into the mountain was one of the high points of the trip. “They get more snow over there than they know what to do with,� said snowboarding frontman Mikey B.
snowfo re c a s t . com
Photos: Wigglesworth
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Much mahalo to our supporters.
Mikey B.
E a g l e P a s s h e l i s k ii n g Ever feel the need to get away from the crowd and get a little alone time? If you’ve got the guts for it you can board a chopper at Eagle Pass Heli and do just that. The great wide open defined. According to the boys on the trip, this was “the best snow of the trip…hands down.”
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Mikey B.
Photos: Wigglesworth
Photo: Angel
Photo: Rock
P o w d e r M o u n ta i n C a t s k ii n g Based out of the Whistler Mountain Village, Powder Mountain Catskiing gets twice the amount of snow as its sister peaks at Blackcomb and Whistler. From all accounts from the Great White North, it's also home to some of the most incredible resort terrain around. They're also just one of a few resorts worldwide to feature cat skiing, heli skiing, and lift access from their base village, leaving it up to you to determine how hard you want to go.
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Photos: Angel
Maui
Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea Paia
Big Island
Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa
PHOTOS BY: DORSEY
Oahu
Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Pearlridge Center Aloha Tower Marketplace Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani Royal Hawaiian Center
Kauai
Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove www.honoluasurf.com
Surf Art
Brushing Up with Nicolas Caubarrere You’d be forgiven if you wouldn’t normally associate the country of Uruguay as the stomping grounds for one of surfing’s preeminent surf-themed artists. Just don’t tell that Nicolas Caubarrere. As a man that splits his time between the verdant mountains and breathtaking lagoons of Tahiti and the dramatic horizons of Hawaii, it’s easy to see where Nicolas finds the inspiration for his ocean and nature-based works of art. “Growing up in Uruguay in a very small town, a lot of my first paintings were of country roads and scenics. I began getting really into art when I was about 15 and I was painting on anything and everything.
T-shirts, wood, canvas,” says Nicolas through a muted South American accent. “But then as I got older, around the time I turned 18, I started surfing a lot and painting more of the ocean.” As he’s developed into an artist, Nicolas has gained notoriety across the globe with his realistic portrayals of some of surfing’s most harrowing situations and setups, most notably, Mother Pipeline, and all of the power that accompanies her vicious reputation. “It’s the energy of the ocean that really attracts me and I think my paintings reflect that. I try and make my paintings feel as real as the winters do here in Hawaii. I’m not trying to convey too much fantasy in my Continued on page 92
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Surf Art
Continued from page 90
art,” reflects Nicolas when asked about the roots of his paintings. “I’ve been coming to Hawaii for about eight years and I really hope that people can feel the sense of power here in the ocean in my paintings.” We’re not the only ones that are noticing that Nicolas has a mastery of brushstrokes. In the coming year, he’s taking his act on the road with showings and exhibitions with fellow artists and photographer Tim Mckenna as the duo will travel throughout South America and Polynesia. If you’re interested in learning more about Nicolas and his pension for paint, check out his website at www.nicolascaubarrere.com
They’re to live for
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News & Events
Veteran’s Day Local Knowledge ReiGns Supreme at the Xcel Sunset Pro
Story and Photos by Bernie Baker
Call an ace an ace, a spade a spade. For almost three decades the “neighborhood” Xcel Pro has jumped through a million hoops, shared the promo and spotlight with almost as many co-sponsors and seen almost every wave condition this ocean can throw at the North Shore in a two-week period. Still, it remains the anchor to every winter season. The “Xcel” IS the siren that calls in the best of Hawaii, both the rated and the hotter-than-crud lucky few that get in to the event from the alternate list after praying for no-shows and illnesses or someone stuck in the Laniakea traffic. And it happens, rarely, but it happens. This winter’s Xcel Pro presented by Honolua kicked off the season with another rarity: The event was completed in the first four days of the waiting period, an occurrence almost unheard of for any major event. Actually, there wasn’t much of a choice since the first morning dawned to one of those typical Sunset off-the-point-andbarreling-in-the-middle set ups. It would have been a no-brainer call to start the event in decent surf, but all it takes is a forecast for something bigger a day or two out and everyone’s waving a finger. Actually, a couple of the boys looked at the other side of the coin and thought that even if the swell dropped down that surfing the point rather than Burger World (the point lineup across to outside Vals) would give up higher scores on better sections. Twenty-four hours later and we’re greeted with a mix of old swells, a new west and the odd bomb. For the best part of that first round it was a mix of solid point rides, the now-and-then middle peak and a bunch of other fluff as competitors pulled out every trick in their bag to bust over that magic 5.5 average score. It only takes two good rides, but against three other surfers and a ticking time clock in shifty conditions you gotta dance the dance and make it believable to the judging panel. And no, going left will not get you any dry-reef sympathy from them. Sunny, Gavin, Evan, Derek and Kaipo GPSd their way out of trouble (along with all of the others) which showed what knowing the reef at Sunset does for your second-and third-round career. By the end of the day the point lineup had all but dissolved into the Real Deal and without naming names the kids who wouldn’t get lost in a mall couldn’t find the proper cross hairs to sit in the right spot for the biggest and best sets. We’ve now Continued on page 96
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Riding the rail, Hank Gaskell
Pancho Sullivan: power defined
News & events
Myles Padaca, always a force at Sunset.
A beautiful sunset, Hank Gaskell
Continued from page 94
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got surf lessons, surf camps and surf coaching, I think someone ought to hire themselves out to show the next generation the lineup markers at Sunset, for a small cash price of course. The next morning greets everyone with an even bigger swell, a few wash-throughs and third reefers. As the competitors began falling by the wayside, the Final Eight came out of the day with two good surfs in sizeable swell, knew what they’d need for the semisand had no excuses for the next morning’s call. The dawn buoy report was reading a dropping swell height, but Sunset was still pumping strong, maybe as a salute to the event and the guys who were left for the battle. Out of the two semis it came down to a final with Pancho Sullivan, Myles Padaca, Shane Beschen and Hank Gaskell. When the final broke, Pancho was on a search for the drifting, bigger sets and had to play the odds. Myles needed a wave face that just didn’t want to come his way and Shane Beschen’s drops were his best moments. For Hank Gaskell it all came down to seeing things clearly, being in the right place, moving a bit inside and around the others—simply taking advantage of what’s right there in front of you and making the best of the offer. It worked for the Maui boy. “I got lucky,” Gaskell admitted, “I did my own thing and didn’t think about the others, I knew it was going to be tough.” Looks like taking advantage and being lucky were one in the same, a good lesson for anyone in an Xcel Pro final.
News & events
Photos: Serena Baeseman
The Little People Go Big Talk to a North Shore pro, any pro, and there’s a good chance that they cut their teeth among the rollers at Ali‘i Beachpark. With more than three decades of experience holding the event, organizers set the stage as the groms of O‘ahu once again took to the lineup in the 33rd Annual Hale‘iwa Menehune Surf Contest. Regarded as the Holy Grail for 12and-under surfers, the event is a breath of fresh air amid a sport dominated by serious competition. Plain and simple, it’s a chance for kids to be kids and enjoy a day in the ocean. From what we saw, the future for Hawaiian surfers looks bright. But you’ll have to trust us as these groms are a full decade out from oversized checks and stacked quivers. Big mahalos to all of the competitors and their ohana for coming out, and giant, mega shakas to all of the folks who help put on this cherished ritual every year. Chheeeehoooooo.
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waves " Off the wall " oil on canvas
Tahiti & Hawaii
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SPOTLIGHT
Wo r d A s s o c i at i o n w i t h
Dusty Payne
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Photo: Heff
2010: Hopefully on the WCT. Tiger Woods: The Man. Bouy 1: What I look at to make sure I’m surfing at the right place. Obama: First black president. Stoked. Ice Cream: Fattening. Tom Dosland won’t eat it. [laughs] He’s got a bet with Makua. Body Surfing: Fun cross training. Maui: The best place on Earth. Dave Riddle: One of my best friends. Dave Wassle: Who I look up to.
spaghettini
6/9/06
3:28 PM
Page 1
Andy Irons
Heard enough about Andy this issue? We didn’t think so. Recently, A.I.’s been seen sporting the Monster emblem on the North Shore. Already holding a stacked deck, the Monster Team’s now looking at a royal flush. Can’t get enough of Billabong Surf TV and Board Stories? Yeah, us too! We’re hooked on the stuff. Trouble is, every time we go snowboarding we can’t get our fix…until now. You read it right, friend. Now you can sit back in your thermals, unlace your boots and remember why you live next to the beach in the first place. America’s Resort Sport’s Network (RSN) will be broadcasting two airdates per week of the show beginning soon in the bar at your local lodge so stay glued. North Shore mainstay and surf guru Dave Riddle will be joining Creatures of Leisure soon as the company is extending Riddle a position as the Hawaii team manager and brand ambassador. Creatures International Team Manager, Shaun Wright said “We are really pleased to have a person of Riddle’s standing join the Creatures team. He is a well respected figure with a huge amount of knowledge on all the best surfing talent. Riddle is the ideal person for Creatures in this role to best promote our brand and assist our team of athletes.” We wholeheartedly agree and think that Riddle will do a bang-up job in the islands.
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Want to know who the next big grom is coming out of Kauai? His name’s Jesse Guglielmana and he’s got all of the earmarks of a future great. From all accounts, the kid straight-up rips. Following in a pedigree steeped in surf stardom, Guglielmana has been picked up by the Quik team and is reportedly on a tear on the Garden Island. At only 14 years old, remember the name “Gugleilmana” and that you read about the lad here in FREESURF first before he blows up in the mainstream. Have you ever wondered what goes on in the mind of the best surfer in the world? Next time you’re on your computer, go check out MarineLayerProductions.com and get a glimpse into the inspired mind of Dane Reynolds. We’ve made it part of our morning ritual, and so should you. In our November issue, we profiled the Big Island’s CJ Kanuha. Ever stoked to accommodate, we thought we’d pay a quick homage to one of CJ’s mentor’s, Tom Stone, who helped ignite the spark that led to CJ shaping old-style boards out of Koa in the old fashion. Tom, you’re a legend, and the surf world is better for having you involved.
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Serving Hope The location of the Surfing the Nations office in Wahi‘awa feels like a complete anomaly. Flanked by two porn shops and a liquor store—hey, Wahi‘awa’s never been known for its glitz and glam—the green and tan-toned building dedicated to feeding Hawai‘i’s hungry seems starkly out of place. Across the street a homeless man, dressed in a pair of hole-riddled shorts, his overgrown toenails hooking themselves over the edge of his rotten Locals, incessantly mumbles some form of gibberish to himself. He’s the kind of person that most of us want to avoid, someone we pretend not to see. But Chris Rehrer, 27, isn’t most of us and Surfing the Nations isn’t your typical nonprofit. They see this man clear as crystal. And they want to feed him. “We typically feed about 3,500 people a month and I’m pretty sure that makes us the largest private nonprofit in the state when it comes to giving out food,” says Rehrer, an avid surfer and the company’s international director. The nonprofit, which began in Honolulu nearly a decade ago, has made it their mission to feed Hawai‘i’s hungry. Under the motto “Surfers Giving Back” they have helped countless families in Hawai‘i go to bed with a full stomach while they sleep with a clear conscious. A typical food-delivery day consists of loading
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a number of vans chock full of local produce, canned goods and meat, and posting up anywhere on the island they feel that they can do the most good. “Yeah, I feel like we’re doing a good thing. But for us, it’s more than just giving out food to the hungry, that’s great, but it’s really about building solid relationships with the people we help,” adds Rehrer through a grizzly, rust-toned beard and infectious smile. But you can’t do the good work without a little self-indulgence from time to time. And for Rehrer, that indulgence comes in the form of Rocky Rights or Kewalo Basin. “My schedule’s always pretty busy, but I still find the time to surf about four times a week. It’s a pretty good deal where we’re located. We’re really not too far from Town or the North Shore, so there’s always something for me.” After feeding so many of us who have fallen on hard times, here’s hoping that the ocean can give Rehrer his fill for once.
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coming Next Issue:
"There's something to be said for taking notice of the youth. Next month, we're letting three of Hawaii's most influential young surfers try their hand at running the mag. Here's to them branching out."
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Photo: Baeseman
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