Fsmv6 7 by Freesurf Magazine

Pack your bags, you’re headed for the south pacific pg. 34

Tahitian

Calling Card A DEEPER SHADE OF BLUE

hidden in plain sight

Why the Best Trip you Take All Year Might Be Across the Island

Surviving the spit Breathe in, Breathe out and hold on

Tonino Benson Photo: Latronic

VOLUME 6 NUMBER 7

•

FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

AS SEEN ON THE COVER OF TWSURF/PHOTO EPES

a visual let

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With the infamous Chopes a quick boat ride away, what would normally be sought-after surf in most locales is an empty lineup in Tahiti. Photo: Latronic

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The Con Man. Brian Conley in Sideways™

That’s what we call him. Brian might seem to be one thing on land but out in the water his presence is quite different. It’s not what you would expect. His relaxed, easygoing demeanor is misleading. Don’t let him fool you. When you see him out in the

water you’ll understand. This is a guy who charges big surf head on. The antithesis of his personality. We think our new Sideways sunglass is a little bit of a deception as well. Its not what you would typically expect from Oakley. And we think thats a good thing.

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Contents FSM V6#7

Where Town Meets Country Keanu Asing and Ezekiel Lau Take a Day Trip

44 66

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Aperture Pitted Tahitian Style

Breathing Barrels Surviving the Spit

Photo: Latronic

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

Contents FSM V6#7

Model: Amanda Haworth. Photo: Brooklyn

10 FREE PARKING Tahiti Manini 22 COVER STORY Tonino Benson 24 MASTHEAD 28 EDITOR’S NOTE Board Meeting 30 FREE-TIME GALLERY Eh Howzit! 32 I NSIDE SECTION Tahiti Necessities // Riding With Koa

34 WHATEVAS Randall “Yogi” Paulson 36 PIKO Caring for the Ocean 60 N EWS & EVENTS Billabong Pro Tahiti // Local Motion’s Surf Into Summer // T&C Grom Contest

66 SURF SCIENCE Surviving The Spit 68 FREE PLUGS Industry Notes 76 LAST LOOK Sandy Beach

On the cover

Photo: Latronic

At a blur

It’s been said that Tonino Benson may be the fastest surfer of his generation. It’s no secret that the lad is lightning quick down the line and his surfing has been known to whip necks and blur retinas. Judging from this shot of the young neighborislander and the unholy amount of speed that went into making it a cover, it’s a wonder at all that FREESURF front man, Mike Latronic, was able to snap this gem of Tonino without cracking a lens and some vertebrae in the process. To boot, if you’ve been studying the covers for the past year, you’re wise to the fact that we haven’t run an air shot in quite some time. With summer in full effect and the south shore lighting up at an unprecedented rate, it seems that the solstice may be the season of progression. That said, it’s time to start looking up. —Jeff Mull

On the Cover: Tonino Benson Photo: Mike Latronic

Announcing the return of the 5th Biennial Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction

A classic collection of Island-influenced vintage surfboards, Hawaiiana and surf memorabilia.

July 17 & 18th, 2009 • Blaisdell Center, Honolulu Featuring ancient Hawaiian wood boards, Alai’a boards, Waikiki vintage redwoods, hollow paddleboards, balsa planks, Waimea full guns, Sunset semi’s, transition shapes, early shortboards including twin-fins, Fishes, Lightning Bolts’, 70’s single fins, 80’s Pro boards and other unique Island shapes. Plus, Island-inspired surf art, photos and one-of-a-kind surf collectibles. Friday, July 17th, 2009

Want to know what your surf stuff is worth? Bring it in for a free “Antiques Roadshow”® type appraisal - 12 Noon to 4:00pm, Galleria Hall

Saturday, July 18th, 2009

Doors open at 10:00am • “Silent Auction” 2:00pm to 4:30pm, Galleria Hall “Main Auction” 5:00pm to 9:00pm, Pikake Room 30/40’s Wood boards 50’s Balsas 60’s Longboards Transition 70’s Lightning Shapes Bolts

80’s Pro Boards

Surf Inspired Art

Surf Decals

Surf Magazines

Travel Posters

Historical Items Hawaiiana

A benefit for the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation,The Surfing Heritage Foundation and The Surfrider Foundation

Produced by Hawaii Surfing Promotions. For more information and to Pre-register, contact:

www.hawaiiansurfauction.com

or contact Randy Rarick, Hawaii Surfing Promotions, P.O. Box 460, Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712 • (808) 638-7266 • Fax: (808) 638-7764 • surfpro@hawaii.rr.com

M o d e l s f o r E v e ry L e v e l o f S u rf i n g B y S u rf Co Hawaii

A product of Manulele Inc. VOLUME 6 • NUMBER 7 publisher Mike Latronic

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editor KEVIN WHITTON associate editor JEFF MULL photo editor TONY HEFF free thinkers Jack kittinger, tom stone design

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art director RICHARD HUTTER graphic design Intern Nick Maus staff photographers ERIC BAESEMAN, TONY HEFF, MIKE LATRONIC, TYLER ROCK contributing photographers

NATHAN ADAMS, ERIK AEDER, Kirk Lee Aeder,

JAMIE BALLENGER, MARK BERKOWITZ, BRIAN BIELMANN, JOHN BILDERBACK, Holt Blanchard, BO BRIDGES, VINCE CAVATAIO, Mike Coots, DAREN CRAWFORD, HILTON DAWE, PATRICK DEVAULT, DAMEA DORSEY, WILLI EDWARDS, BRANDON ELLS, BEAU FLEMISTER, ISAAC FRAZER, PETE FRIEDEN, Kirby Fukunaga, Ryan Gamma, KENNY GIBBS, STU GIBSON, GORDINHO, CHRIS HAG AN, HAJ, JOHN HEPLER, JON HUBERMAN, Rick Hurst, ERIK IPPEL, JOLI, BUZZY KERBOX, DANNY KIM, Kin Kimoto, PETER KING, RIC LARSEN, BRUNO LEMOS, CARL LUCAS, MANA, MIKE MCGINNIS, IKAIKA MICHAELS, JUSTIN MORIZONO, ALLEN MOZO, DAVE NELSON, CAROL OLIVA, SERGIO OLIVERA, BRUCE OMORI, BRADY OSHIRO, MANNY PANGILINAN, CHRISTIAN PERALTA, Steve Robertson, JIM RUSSI, PAKE SALMON, EPES SARGENT, BOBBY SCHUTZ, SPENCER SUITT, BILL TAYLOR, Paul Teruya, KEVIN WHITTON, JIMMY WILSON, DARRELL WONG

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director of sales and marketing SEAN WINGATE advertising executive SHAUN LOPEZ business coordinator CORA SANCHEZ executive assistant SIRI MASTERSON advertising inquiries contact 808-429-8460 or swingate@freesurfmagazine.com www.freesurfmagazine.com FreeSurf Magazine is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FreeSurf on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com. Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

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EDITOR'S NOTE

Board Meeting

Illustration: Nick Maus

Staying sane at work requires a bit of insanity By Kevin Whitton

Things around the office are crazy all winter long as you can image: hundreds of photos to go through on a daily basis, surfers to track down, interviews galore and waves to be had on the odd chance of a lunch break. While summer may not swelter with the daily urgency of processing batch after batch of epic footage, the pace remains steady nonetheless. A slew of amateur and professional events plant themselves on the best breaks on the south shore of O‘ahu and the South Pacific lights up with south swell and crystal clear barrels framing stoked surf travelers. Back at the office, the images of perfect surf and ripping groms begin to bombard the senses. Feet start bouncing, fingers start tapping and it becomes harder to sit in front of a computer and focus on the work at hand. Even the intern gets a little antsy. That’s when lunch break becomes a board meeting. It doesn’t take much to relax the senses, just a rideable wave really and a board that can float about 160 pounds on a 1-foot wave. So when a pulse of swell started showing at the peak across the street on a hot, cloudless June day, we pulled out every longboard and fish we could find and took the camaraderie of the staff vibe to the beach. There were seven of us total, including Nick, the 22-year-old intern from Charlotte, North Carolina. He’d never been surfing before and he was about to get a lesson that money can’t buy. For starters, we had him slather on the sunscreen. Let’s just say that he doesn’t have the skin type that tans well. We put Nick on the rescue board, a 10-foot soft top with safety

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handles on the deck. The lineup was empty so we had the peak to ourselves, a perfect situation for rolling up with a seven-deep crew, including someone who had never even put his feet on a board. Nick sat on the shoulder for a bit and watched the hijinks. We snaked each other, swapped boards every few minutes and did silly longboard tricks like the coffin, jumped on each other’s boards for brief tandem rides and tried without success to pull off a helicopter on a yellow noserider. Nick took a deep breath, ready to get a wave, and we took turns pushing him into the waves that swung wide on the shoulder. He gave it his all and after several attempts and a minor run-in with the reef, he finally made it to his feet. Rejuvenation comes in many forms and it’s necessary to keep the creative vibe going all day. When it’s flat, I’ll go for a quick swim to get the juices flowing, but it’s always better to have a wave to ride. It’s amazing that a little 1-foot left, clean and peeling down the reef, the longboard locked in and trimming, can provide such an incredible feeling of freedom and stoke. With work impending, we made our way in, only to take a little extra time to lounge in the shorebreak; seven grown adults playing King of the Rock on a moss-covered slab of reef in the shorebreak—unsightly, but very fun. Back at the office, with the salt-water fix curing tapping fingers and bouncing knees, a quiet eased gently over everyone’s shoulders as they edited video clips, chose images, arranged photo galleries and wrote stories. The board meeting was a success.

1 2

3 1 Air Tahiti Nui Von Zipper Trials winner Heiraii Williams showed the boys on tour how itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s done. Photo: Latronic

6 Alana Brennan shows off those pearly whites. Photo: Latronic 7 Kaikea Elias pulls in sans board for the Clark Little view. Photo: Heff

2 Impromptu outdoors concert, Tahitian style.

Photo: Latronic

8 Sebastian Zeitz puts the pedal to the metal to outrun his play date. 3 Daddy Gavin Beschen teaching the four Rs: riding, relaxing and relentless recess. Photo: Latronic 4 Summer night jamming at Higher Ground CafĂŠ in Wahiawa.

9 Hey Nage, training is not supposed to be so much fun. Photo: Heff

Photo: Baeseman

5 What a trio: Joel Centeio, MC Hammer and Torrey Meister. Looks like Hammer switched his parachute pants for boardshorts. Photo: Latronic

Photo: Riddleburger

10 Kinsan keeps it lively with a bomb set approaching. Photo: Latronic 11 Gotta love the channel at Chopes for its beauty and safety.

Photo: Latronic

inside section

Riding With Koa The Waikiki Debut

Kekoa Bacalso is not your average up-and-coming professional surfer. Yes, he does the contests and the photo/video trips to Bali and beyond, but he’s also made it a point to perpetuate the legacy of aloha in surfing. Riding with Koa, a biographical documentary, chronicles his past accomplishments and future in pro surfing. From his NSSA Open Mens victory at Lower Trestles to the founding of the Koa Tree Foundation to help Hawai‘i surfers make their way to NSSA Nationals in Califonia, the film delivers the complete package of a young man leveled in family, charity and epic surf. The film released in May to a boisterous audience at Level 4 Night Club in Waikiki. Hard Rock Café made the pupus, Da Kine and Oakley gave away prizes and Natural Vibrations smoothed it out during the after party. With a good time had by all, Koa’s probably hard at work on his next set. —Kevin Whitton Photo: Latronic

Tahiti necessities

Traveling to Tahiti with a few big boards, non-chaffing boardshorts and an extra-large set of cojones is a given (oh yeah, and lots of sunscreen). But French Polynesia is more than just chucking barrels and it’s smart to be prepared for the down time. Here are some essentials to smash into the extra space in your boardbag:

Five things to stuff in your boardbag you shouldn’t be without

1. Mask and Snorkel – Tahiti has pristine reefs and crystal clear water that is world-renowned for free-diving, snorkeling and spearfishing. 2. Mosquito Repellent – With ample rain and lush vegetation comes a tropical downside: hordes of voracious mosquitoes. Unless you’re sealed away in a five-star resort, it’s a good idea to slather it on. 3. French Dictionary – Remember, Tahiti is in French Polynesia and the locals speak...French. Signs and menus are in French as well and knowing a few words in the language of love might help you hook up with a lovely lady in the club. 4. First Aid Kit – Reef breaks are the norm and beach breaks are few so reef cuts are inevitable. If you’re pulling in, you’re guaranteed to make contact eventually. 5. Camera – While you might think you’ll be in the water 10 hours a day getting the shacks of your life, chances are you’re going to need some time to rest and relax—no better way than busting out a small digi to capture the island’s beauty and intricacies. —Kevin Whitton

Photo: Latronic

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inside section

Whatevas

Randall Paulson Stretch It Out Interview by Kevin Whitton

Randall Paulson has been singing the praises of Pipeline and yoga for a long time. After yoga took a back seat to his surfing and a major knee injury a year ago forced him to take some time off, he’s had a chance to reflect and is charging ahead as a business owner, recently opening DiamondHead Yoga. Having realized the importance of health and stretching for surfing, he’s created a business that is a perfect fit for himself and the community. FreeSurf: What was your motivation for starting up a yoga studio? Randall Paulson: I was always getting hurt from surfing Pipeline and yoga always helped me to bounce back faster or prevent injury. Me and my business partner have been involved in yoga for a long time and love doing it. We’d go to the other studios and it was uncomfortable: white walls, florescent lights, people crammed together, that’s not what yoga’s supposed to be about. I’ve had a space saved for a couple years now and didn’t know what to do with it. Then it hit me...yoga. FSM: So who’s your partner? RP: Michael Harrison. He’s an artist and an interior designer. He has his own reasons for opening the studio. He’s a spiritual guy and when he saw the room for the first time, he asked it what it wanted to be. And it wanted to be a yoga studio. FSM: How long has this studio been in the works? RP: We started designing it January ’09 and finished this May. Me and Mike agreed on color schemes and design, but it wasn’t just us, it was all my friends that put this together. Johnny Ruff dry walled the entire place and Mike Akima painted it really nice. Nash put in the wood flooring and Sean at Prism Enterprises, an LED specialist, put in LED lights because we wanted to be the first studio to go green. And Barry White, he surfs out at Sui’s with me, he did the electrical. FSM: What sets the studio apart? RP: We are trying to be as green as possible. We have recycled wood

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Photo: Heff

flooring, organic cotton for all our shirts, recyclable water cups, low-energy LED lighting. We just want to help our friends and the community with yoga. It’s a positive business. And we are cheaper than everyone. We even have a special with unlimited yoga so you can try out all the teachers. FSM: What kind of yoga does the studio have on offer? RP: We have six teachers, instructing mysore ashtanga, led ashtanga, anusara, Pilates, power yoga, foundational flow and vinyasa flow. And I’m going to get tai chi and qi gong in here, everything good for surfing. FSM: How did Randall Paulson, Pipe charger, make the transition to businessman? RP: I’ve been in the surf industry for so long, I know a little bit about marketing and business managing just from being involved with companies. I’ve actually saved some money from all the years being paid to surf pipeline and I thought I better start doing something positive with the money before I spend it on nothing. This is just the beginning. I love business and I have a bunch of other ideas in mind, this is just the steppingstone. You don’t have to be a genius to open a business, it’s just common sense. FSM: What kind of yoga are you into? RP: I’ve been doing Bikram’s for a long time. It’s good if you don’t abuse it. FSM: So you practice what you preach, that’s noble. RP: I’m just stoked that I have a place to come to and stretch and feel good so I can go surfing and not worry about getting hurt. I’ve been injured for a year. I hurt my knee and my shoulder from surfing Pipeline and that was the year that I stopped doing yoga. It’s hard; it’s a discipline. When the waves are good I surf 8 to 10 hours a day. When I come home, it’s so hard for me to do yoga. That one winter I was surfing so much I couldn’t fit yoga into the schedule. And one big wipeout and I ended up ripping things and it took a year to heal. I just got healed a couple months ago. I’m just getting back into yoga, eating good and trying to learn business. For more info: Diamondheadyoga.com

Piko

Ha- nau ke kai, ha- nau ka ‘a- ina,

ha- nau ke ali‘i, ha- nau ke kanaka. Born was the sea, born was the land, born were the chiefs, born were the people.

Malama Ke Kai Understanding, respecting and caring for the ocean By Tom Pohaku Stone Hawai‘i, our island home, is a unique place. Together we will set out to discover its many hidden places that if forgotten, will vanish without anyone knowing that it was ever part of the landscape. Nature, god and man are all sources of knowledge; they inspire us. The Hawaiian views knowledge as holistic and multi-faceted: all knowledge is not contained in one place. Knowledge is a merging of the head, heart and the whole body. Knowledge is acquired from many sources. The Hawaiian people have always been aware of their ocean environment and its many moods and rhythms. Ka makani ‘ula o ke kai—the red wind that belongs to the sea. What this means is that the blood that flows through us is the wind of our ancestors who gave up the land to become a sea-going people of this great world we call home. We are all one people of this canoe. Our ancestors embraced the knowledge of the gods to care for the land and the sea by identifying and maintaining a harmonious relationship with their fragile island resources. From this concept of malama, our ka- puna established the foundation of our culture and our relationship to the ocean. Though similar in some ways to other Pacific-island cultures, our unique culture remains very different from any other Pacific-isle peoples. If we do not continue to malama then we will have failed as people and we will stand to lose our living culture. Ma- lama kai. Our precious marine ecosystems, including important fishing grounds, coral reefs, beaches and surf sites are being impacted, but we are here to care for it. The sea is a lei around our islands from which our ancestors emerged. They had respect for this sea and all aspects of their well-being were reliant upon it. Ma- lama kai—care for the sea and take from it only what is needed and respect its godly power.

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Where Town Meets Country

Zeke Lau and Keanu Asing rediscover the all-day surf trip without leaving home By Jeff Mull Photos: Heff

It’s an overcast and misty morning on the North Shore at Ted’s Bakery. Seated amid a mound of fresh pastries and energy drinks are two of Hawai‘i’s most promising young surfers, Keanu Asing and Zeke Lau. As they pick apart a sugar-spackled bear claw and ingest unhealthy amounts of something called guarano, the conversation switches to the surf. It’s spring on the island of O‘ahu, and although the waves on the North Shore aren’t making widows and the southerlies have yet to hit their apex, there is still fun-sized surf on both sides of the island today. “Where do you think will be good?” asks Zeke, between bites of his pastry. “I don’t know, maybe Gums or Logs,” replies Keanu. “I wonder how Town is?” “Probably pretty fun. Maybe it’s cleaner there than up here.” A noble yet telltale question if there ever was one. Two very different coasts on the

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Death from above. Townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Zeke Lau, ready to drop some bombs.

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same island producing some very different surf, all under the same light of the day. This is their own penny-saving, backyard surf trip, and truth be told, the boys couldn’t have been happier as they readied themselves for the trek across the island. After breakfast, Zeke, Keanu, and Uncle Tommy (Zeke’s Dad) pile into the truck where Keanu takes the driver’s seat with Uncle Tommy conveniently huddled in the back—a consequence of having a learner’s permit and not a license. Once in gear, the lot meanders down Kam Highway and into the Pipeline parking lot where they dust off their sleighs and bound down to the beach. Pipe isn’t quite potent today, but the beachbreak affectionately named Gums is coughing up some very rippable rights and lefts. It’s more than enough to get the boys waxed and in the water without hesitation. To no surprise, Keanu and Zeke surf with an amount of poise and grace that is well beyond their pubescent years. Make no mistake, Zeke and Keanu are the real deal. After throwing down a litany of fin ditches, punts and hacks, the boys retire to the Volcom House where we map out the remainder of the day and check out the photos from the session. There is something about journeying up past the pineapple fields and onto the H-1 Freeway and heading south, that makes the voyage feel like an honest-to-god surf trip. Yes, we have all made that sojourn countless times before, but when you have a photographer, writer, and two up-and-coming pros all in the same caravan, it gives the illusion of something grand. “Sometimes I forget how lucky we are to have all of these waves in the same place,” reflects Keanu. “And this time of year, spring time, when there’s waves on both sides of the island…it’s pretty cool.” Zeke nods in approval. With the wheels on the road and Keanu in the driver’s seat the two begin to josh each other. They quote the ghetto-fab film Friday in unison and seem to know every line by heart. It’s as if they have become the movie’s main

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characters, with Zeke as Chris Tucker and Keanu as Ice-Cube. “It’s Friday…and you aint got sh-t to do!” the two scream at each other and laugh. Sometimes in the surf media, the young crop is painted with a brush that is beyond their years. Yes, they are talented, and yes, they are poised for greatness. But first and foremost, these are kids, and right now, as teenagers, they’re having the time of their lives quoting late ’90s cult comedies. In the past few years, Kewalo Basin, tucked away near the Ala Moana Harbor, has become the place to be if you’re a Honolulu grom.

Though the area remains slightly seedy with the occasional errand crack-head and hobo pillaging the trash, the break still has a very communal feel to it with everyone from the likes of Zeke, Keanu, Carissa Moore and a host of others calling it their home turf. And after watching them go to town on the rights and lefts that skirt the reef, you can see why: the place is a virtual skatepark for the kids. “I love surfing Kewalos,” says Zeke. “It’s the place where all the kids come to surf. There’s a few crazy crack-heads and stuff, but we’ve actually gotten to know them over the years and they’re super cool to us now…the wave is so fun too. There's pretty much always something

clockwise from top left: The dynamic duo, early morning Pipe check; Equal parts power and finesse, Keanu Asing is one of the most talented junior surfers alive today; Zeke and Keanu, post surf, mopping up at Cholos; A little push and shove is good for competition; Butter-smooth and dripping style, Zeke Lau cooks up a hell of a frontside snap.

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right: The Kewalos parking lot is always a scene and Allyssa Wooten stopped by to check out Keanu's board. below: Zeke, bald is beautiful. bottom: In the past year, Keanu’s put on one of the most dominating competitive performances that we can recall. With turns like this, and a solid head on his shoulders, it’s no wonder why.

rippable out here. I love it.” True to form, the boys paddle out and put on a display of progressive surfing. In the last few years, Zeke has grown quite a bit, giving a swan-like grace to his surfing as he glides across the water. Watching Zeke surf, it’s hard not to be reminded of a young Bruce Irons. Keanu, on the other hand, is built like a wrecking ball. His surfing is fast, low and powerful. Watching him tear apart a Kewalos open face on his backhand and you know this kid’s got the goods. Whatever it is, call it “moxie,” the “right stuff,” whatever, Keanu’s got it in spades. With the sun sliding past Ewa, casting a vibrant orange blanket upon the city, the boys make it back to the car to head home. As they drive off, they both reflect on the wonder that is Hawai‘i in the spring. But Keanu sums it up best, “I can’t believe how lucky we are to have this. I don’t know why we don’t do it more often. It’s the best of both worlds. We’ve got the country...and town.”

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SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

HAVE IT YOUR WAY

APERTURE

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This is why we surf.

Photo: Latronic

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Sasha Stoker, nice guy, nice barrel. Photo: Latronic

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Josh Kerr spotting his exit. Photo: Latronic

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Kelly Slater weaves his way through a grower as it bends along the reef.

Sequence: Latronic

Photo: Latronic

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Insert yourself here. Photo: Latronic

Kekoa Bacalso. Photo: Latronic

Kamalei Alexander. Photo: Frieden

Adam “Biff” D’Esposito.

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Photo: Frieden

Friends, Family, Fun

Hokulani’s Steak House Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner

Kea‘au Shopping Center Old Volcano Road, Keaau, Hawaii 808-966-5560

Get in where you fit in. JD Irons sets up. Photo: Latronic

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Maui

Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea Paia

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Pearlridge Center Aloha Tower Marketplace Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani Royal Hawaiian Center

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

PHOTOS BY: STACY, FALLAS, ACTION SHOT BY T.Mc.

www.honoluasurf.com

Bobby Martinez cements his reputation as one of the best barrel riders on tour. Photo: Latronic

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ONLY ONE AIR L INE IS HAWAIIAN. ®

For 80 years, Hawaiian Airlines has taken special pride in carrying you to and from our island home. We’ve been ranked #1 nationally in Service, On-Time Performance and Baggage Handling. And now we’re honored to be recognized again as the #1 Airline That Serves Hawai‘i.

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Andy Irons, enjoying his year off.

Photo: Latronic

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News & events

Southward Bound

Winner Bobby Martinez driving deep to victory.

Photos: Latronic

Freesurf Magazine Embarks on Tahiti for the Billabong Pro Walking through the quaint Tahitian fishing village affectionately known as Teahupo‘o and it’s hard not to feel like you’re stepping back in time. Take the sleepiest town on O‘ahu, throw it back 50 years, drench it in the most verdant shade of green imaginable, and you’ve got yourself a pretty good idea of the natural beauty and people that surround the world’s most ferocious wave. Out to sea from the timeless village, an armada of crystal peaks dot the horizon, giving rise to the notion that there’s a lot more to Tahiti than just Teahupo‘o. And judging from what we found on our endeavors while documenting the Billabong Pro Tahiti, there’s still plenty of waves that have yet to be “discovered.” If you followed the event online, than you’re well aware that although the surf was pristine, it showed but a glimmer of the monsters that the Top 45 had come here to slay. That said, with Teahupo‘o not showing her teeth on a regular basis, there was plenty of time for exploring. The ensuing pages represent the cream of Freesurf’s South Pacific voyage—an equal mix of the playful, the surreal and the jaw dropping. —Jeff Mull

Special thanks to Hawaiian Airlines for providing air transportation to Tahiti.

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Taj Burrow throtles around the corner.

CJ, always a contender.

Adriano De Souza

Andy Irons

Martinez, living la vida loca.

Dustin Barca F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

News & events

It’s Official Summer is here and Amateur competition gets heated at Local Motion’s Surf into Summer

Ha‘a Aikau.

Photo: Baeseman

Local Motion’s Surf Into Summer has been around a long time, decades, and has seen its share of good surf and gutless crap roll in to Ala Moana Bowls. This year seemed to fall somewhere in the middle, with onshore conditions shredding 2-foot south swell and everyone under 16 completely loving it. A never-ending low tide kept competitors busy guessing if they should sit outside to nab the elusive set that might or might not closeout, or sit on the small, inside corner of the reef. Either way, all three days saw oil slick, glassy conditions till around 10 a.m., when sea breezes would kick in and crumble things up for the rest of the day. Due to a conflicting NSSA event at Kewalo Basin, the crowd was more subdued than usual along Magic Island’s vantage point, but a handful of groms and their families were bouncing back and forth between both events. Keanu Asing felt the pinch as he had a heat in each event running simultaneously. Not one to be counted out, he produced

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A reformed Billy Choi.

Photo: Baeseman

Keanu Asing.

Photo: Baeseman

his golden ticket and with minutes left in his NSSA heat, water patrol showed up on a PWC and whisked him away to Bowls, where he had three minutes left in his first round Junior Mens heat. A set came right to him and he ripped it to shreds, scoring enough to squeak through the heat on a one-wave score. In the Menehune Division, Seth Moniz took top honors with cat-like snaps and crisp driving turns on his two high-scoring rides. In the Boys Division, Kaito Kino made things look easy with smooth vertical turns. In the hotly contested Junior Mens Division, Sheldon Paishon edged out Keanu Asing by the slimmest of margins. Billy Choi took out a field of talented Mens finalists while Mahina Maeda took home the Girls Division crown. —Kevin Whitton For complete results go to www.freesurfmagazine.com

News & events

Photo: Latronic

Grom City The T&C Grom Contest Takes Over Queen’s

Photo: Baeseman

There’s only one thing groms love more than fish tacos, and that’s ripple head-high surf. Christmas came early at the end of May and the boys and girls of Hawai‘i Nei received both wishes during the 12th annual T&C Surf Grom Contest. Kuhio Beach morphed into grom city and Queen’s was taken apart by ambitious young shortboards, longboarders and bodyboarders ages 5 to 14. On the first day of the event the shortboarders reveled in consistent 2- to 3-foot perfect peelers that had the parents cheering. The kids were stoked and for lunch, the Wahoos fish tacos were flying out of the pan. Sunday was a bit smaller and a little more inconsistent, but the longboarders and bodyboarders made the most of the beautiful day. “This event creates a window for all the kids, not just the top kids,” said Craig Sugihara, founder of Town and Country. He mingled humbly with the kids and the parents, stoked to see such a good turn out.

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Photo: Baeseman

Photo: Latronic

“Everyone starts at Queens. Even Sunny Garcia started surfing here.” This year the response was overwhelming, especially from the ladies, and T&C opened up separate divisions for the girls to surf against their peers without the pressure of competing against the guys. In addition, a portion of the proceeds from the T-shirt sales went to the Boys and Girls Club of Hawai‘i, as they have recently focused their efforts of sponsoring kids for the contest. Whether playing games on the beach (only a grom can keep both hands behind their back, stand on one leg and bend over to pick up a playing card with their mouth to win a Nixon backpack) or nailing down a few turns at uncrowded Queens, everyone came out a winner. —Kevin Whitton Check out www.freesurfmagazine.com for complete contest results

Uniting the Tribes Tribe \trÂĽb\: a society or division of a society whose members have ancestry, customs, beliefs, and leadership in common ASR Marketplace, a uniting of the action sports tribes; celebrating the culture, tradition and passion that drives the industry while leveraging business opportunities and working together to grow the market. Action Sports Retailer Marketplace serves you as the ultimate action sports platform for a 360 degree look at all the facets of a diverse and vibrant industry. Attend ASR and keep your product selection relevant; get informed of the latest apparel, hardgoods, accessories, trends, initiatives, technologies and resources making an impact on the action sports industry.

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surf science

Sequence: Rock

Breathing Barrels Surviving the spit

By Jack Kittinger “Spit! Welcome to Pipeline.” —Turtle, from the movie North Shore, 1987 Turtle’s words from the classic ’80s surf flick North Shore were in response to watching a grinding barrel puke a rider out of Backdoor. Nothing is more indicative of a wave going off than spitting barrels. Associated with big, hollow surf, the spit is a mesmerizing feature of the Hawaiian wavescape. From a physics perspective, the reason for the spit is that the sequential collapse of the lip results in a physical forcing of the air, driven forward by the advancing foam ball. But the wave has to break with just the right conditions or it won’t happen—which isn’t as often as it may seem. The shape of the reef, wind, and swell direction all play a part and every wave is different. One of the weirdest phenomenon associated with wave spit is what veteran Pipe rider Jamie O’Brien describes as the “flare,” where the barrel actually breathes inward before it blasts out. This happens when the wave shifts, usually occurring when the wave hits a particular part of the reef and causes the barrel to actually change shape or size. Flynn Novak describes it as a change in pressure, “Before it spits, it sucks in, and you get these droplets of spray like needles that sting your face,” explains Novak. “Then there’s a millisecond pause before it reverses and everything roars past you at 100 miles per hour.” Both Jamie and Flynn say the big breath that the wave takes can be so intense it can stop you dead in your tracks, even if you’re going 20 or 30 miles per hour. “Sometimes I just grab my rail,” says O’Brien, “because it can spit you backwards off your board.” “If you’re too far in front, you won’t feel it. If you feel it, you know you’re pretty deep—you’re in the belly. The suck-in gives you a sign that you need to be prepared for the reversal,” says Flynn, a man whose second nature is slotting himself in Pipeline’s sweet spot when it’s on. In bigger surf, the elements are even stronger and more pressure can build inside the tube, warping the inside of the tube. And then time stops for a second—a second of nothingness, a second of uncertainty, then a combination of air, water and brutal force flies past. It’s this breath the wave takes and the resulting reversal that blows the rider out of the other end that makes getting spit out of the barrel the ultimate experience in surfing.

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Photo: Heff

Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re to live for

hawaii 74-5483 Kaiwi St. Big Island, Hawaii 808-329-3335

66-560 Kam Hwy Haleiwa, HawAii 808-637-4573

1 Kekoa Cazimero

Photo: Baeseman

Free plugs

Photo: Jessica DelaCruz

2 Hilton Alves

Gerry Lopez dusted the snow off his back for a trip to the Sacred Craft Consumer Surfboard Expo in Ventura, Calif. to sign his book, Surf Is Where You Find It, and put planer to foam to shape a board at the one-of-a-kind surfboard festival. Kekoa Cazimero (1) tuned in and turned up on the KGMB 9 news during the sports segment to talk about his movie premier and nonprofit organization. The interview was in correlation with his movie release, Riding with Koa. World Ocean Day saw beaches across the state receive some extra love and care from residents and beachgoers, as many businesses and organizations hosted beach cleanups. Primo Beer tackled Sandy Beach and Park and - the Duke’s Waik lkl staff buffed out the beach from Makapu‘u to Oceanic Institute’s pier. Big Island-raised artist Ben Brough is showing his latest installation titled “No

Offense God, But You Made Me Wrong” at the Curbside Gallery in Santa Ana, Calif. As an early contributor to the creative direction of Volcom, Brough’s influence can be seen widely today throughout much of the action-sports world. His latest collages inspire the acceptance of changing the way we look and feel, both mentally and physically, through food, sex surgery and consumerism. Hilton Alves (2) painted his second mural at La- ‘ie Elementary School as part of his Surf Art Kids Hawai‘i Tour 2009. The mural was a collaboration between the artist and La- ‘ie’s 600 students. The artist painted his first mural at La- ‘ie as homage to the community and to further his Surf Art Kids Project message of marine and environmental protection. Clark Little embarked on a book and slideshow tour to promote his self-published book of exhilarating shorebreak moments.

Free plugs

3 Kelly Slater

Photo: Latronic

4 Brian Keaulana

Photo: Latronic

Kelly Slater (3) re-inked a five-year deal with Quiksilver in hopes the nine-time world champ will make it 10 in tandem with his longtime sponsor. Kelly was compensated in large part with Quiksilver stock. A historic property in Wahiawa town was transformed from a longtime neighborhood bar into nonprofit group Surfing the Nation’s headquarters. Mobilizing surfers to give back to the public through community service, the group has purchased the former Top Hat Bar property at 67 S. Kamehameha Highway. Surfing the Nations is mindful of the history connected to the property and plans to work with the Wahiawa community to maintain its historical elements and restore the property to reflect the feeling of Wahiawa. Stuart H. Coleman’s latest book detailing an intimate look at the famous Keaulana family (4) of Ma-kaha and daily life

on O‘ahu’s beautiful Westside, Fierce Heart, has erupted in controversy over the portrayal of the family and community. The Keaulana’s have filed a lawsuit to have the book removed from store shelves. The plaintiff’s attorney, John Carroll, claims that the book is full of gross inaccuracies and that the Keaulana’s attempts to have the contents edited for correction prior to its release, failed. The book was published and released by St. Martin’s Press. SUPers are in the spotlight again, this time on Kaua‘i, where hard feelings have developed between them and surfers in Hanalei and on the west side of Kaua‘i. Not surprisingly, the complaint is that they have an unfair advantage, and are hogging all the waves. DLNR held a community meeting in June to get the groups together and try to air out sides and discuss possible control measures. The 2009 Hawai‘i State Surfing Champions went off

Free plugs

5 Micah Moniz

Photo: Heff

6 Nage Melamed

Photo: Heff

7 Imaikalani Devault

Photo: Patrick Devault

at Ala Moana Bowls at the beginning of June with 2- to 3-foot surf. More than 200 competitors from around the state gathered for the three-day event. Event director Wendell Aoki spoke particularly highly of the outer-island contingent. Major division honors went to: Micah Moniz (5) (O‘ahu, Junior Men’s champion), Ian Gentil (Maui, Boys champion), Nage Melamed (6) (Kaua‘i, Girls champion), Christian Enns (Hawai‘i, Open Men’s champion) and Imaikalani Devault (7) (O‘ahu, Menehune

champion). Finalists in each of the major divisions will qualify for the national Surfing America Championships to be held at Huntington Beach, Calif. at the end of August.

WIPEOUT In volume 6 number 5 we ran the wrong Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction ad. See page 23 in this issue for the correct dates and times for the event and visit www.hawaiiansurfauction. com. We apologize for any inconvenience.

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HAWAI‘I: O‘ahu: North Shore: Aikane Kai Surf Shop, Aloha General Store, Aoki Shave Ice, Banzai Sushi, Breakers, Cafè Haleiwa, Cholo’s, Da Board Shop, Deep Ecology, Haleiwa Eats, Hawaiian Island Creations, Island Shack, Kemoo Pub, Killer Tacos, Kono’s, Kua Aina, Matsumoto Shave Ice, Quiksilver Boardriders Club, Raging Isle, Spaghettini, Starbucks Pupukea, Strong Current, Surf N Sea, Surf and Sail, Ted’s Bakery, Tropical Rush, Turtle Bay Resort, Waimea Falls Grill, WRV, Xcel East Side: HIC, Hukilau Cafe, Hukilau Surf, Island Snow, Laie Inn, Maui Tacos, Muddy Waters Espresso, Point Break, Uncle Bobo West Side: Blue Hawaii Surf Outlet, Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park, Local Motion, Spectrum Trailers Hawaii South Shore: Billabong Waikiki, Blue Hawaii, Blue Planet, Borders, Clips, Down To Earth, Diamond Head Health Bar, Downing Hawaii, Drift Surf, Hawaiian South Shore, HIC, Honolua Surf Co., House of Flys, Koa Board Sports, Kua Aina, Local Motion, Mauka to Makai, MR3, Quiksilver Waikiki, Quiksilver Youth, Rip Curl Ala Moana, Roxy, Russ K Boardriders, Sera’s Surf & Shore, Surf Co., Surf Garage, T&C, Tropical Blends, Turbo Surf, Up and Riding, Wahoo’s Fish Tacos, Xcel Maui: Lahaina: Billabong Retail, Boardriders Lahaina, Boardriders Whaler’s Village, Honolua Surf Co., Local Motion, Maui Surf Company, Maui Water Wear, Maui Tropix, Napili Coffee, Paradise Smoothie, Surfline Store Town: Ainokea, Borders, Hawaiian Island Sun Sports, Hawaiian Surf Works, Hi-Tech Surf, Las Pinatas, Lightning Bolt, Local Motion, Maui Tropix, Neil Pryde, Otopia, Second Wind, Shapers, The Foam

Company Kihei: Big Wave Cafè, Jaws Fish Tacos, Local Motion, Maui Tacos Paia: Anthony’s, Da Kine Factory Store, Hana Hwy Surf, Jaws Fish Tacos, Live Wire Cafè, Maui Tropix, Sailboards Maui, Simmer Big Island: Hilo: Big Island Surf-Prince Kuhio Plaza, Big Island Surf-Bayfront, Hilo Surfboard Company, Local Style, Orchidland Surfboards Kona: 808 Surf & Skate, A‘ama Surf & Sport, Big Island Surf, Conscious Riddims Records Inc., Hawaii Lifeguards, Honolua Surf Co., Honolua Wahine, Kahalu‘u Bay Oshima Surf, Killer Tacos, Kona Boyz, Miller’s Surf & Sport, Pacific Vibrations, Surf & Sea, World Core Pahoa: Jeff Hunt Surfboards, Kona Boyz Waimea: Big Island Surf Kaua‘i: Hanalei: Bamboo Bamboo, Bikini Room, Hanalei Backdoor, Hanalei Surf Company, Mormaii, Kai Kane Princeville: Paradise Kilauea: Kilauea Bakery Kapaa: Tamba, M. Miura, The Wave Wailua: Chicks Who Rip, Kauai Surf Company, Play Dirty, Underwater Lihue: Deja Vu, Honolua Surf Co., Hawaiian Blades, Jamba Juice Poipu: Aloha Surf Shop, Honolua Surf Co., Nukumoi, Progressive Expressions Kalaheo: Kaleheo Steak House Ele Ele: Grinds Cafè Hanapepe: Dr. Ding MAINLAND: Hermosa/Manhattan Beach: Becker Surfboards, ET Surf, Spyder Surfboards, Surf Concepts Gardena: Bob's Hawaiian Style Restaurant, Cherrystone's, Tapioca Express Huntington Beach: Huntington Surf and Sport, Jack's Surfboards, Wahoo's Fish Taco Torrence: Wahoo's Fish Taco

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INDOBOARD Balance Trainers are available at: Aloha Board Shop Hawaiian Island Creations ■ Hawaiian South Shore ■ Moku Hawaii ■ Tropical Rush ■ Big Island Surf Shop ■ Kai Kane ■ Hi Tech Sports W W W. I N D O B O A R D . C O M ■ ■

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Last Look

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A not-so-gentle, Sandy Beach reminder that Town can pack a punch. FreeSurf is Town bound, coming next issue. Photo: Heff

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