Here She Comes Talking story with coco ho
Breaking Barriers Surfing’s Generation Next
Blows Our Minds
The North Shore
Awakens
Too Big
to Fail
the Dice Free in Hawai‘i
november V7#11 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM
Rolling
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Tavarua Ian Walsh Photo: Bruno Lemos
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No minor threat. Bruce Irons in his Signature Series Dispatch™
No hesitation. No compromises. No doubts. Know Bruce Irons — one seriously heavy threat who stays calm and relaxed when it comes to his personality, but shifts to intensity and commitment when it comes to performance. Just check out some footage of the 20-foot-plus day at Waimea when Bruce
became one of only seven guys to ever win the Eddie. Or step into deep country at his home on Kauai as he hunts for wild hogs with his trusty 20-gauge. Just like Bruce, Oakley has built a bulletproof reputation for never backing down or caving in to compromises. It doesn’t get any more major than that.
Contents V7#11 November 2010
42 This Changes Everything
The Hurley Pro at Lowers was a milestone for professional surfing and signaled a new dawn in the sport. Welcome to the modern surf contest.
58 Aperture
There’s salt in the air, your stomach’s in your throat, and your body’s soaked in adrenaline. This is the North Shore.
If ThisMad Lens Could Talk 84 Tavi Goes
For more than three decades, Trust us, you’ve never seen Tavarua quite like this. Iansurf Walsh and a Bernie Baker has been at the forefront of Hawaiian photography. few cohorts unmask a new, and quiteQueens, franklyBernie’ terrifying, one From iconic Waimea to playful s seenface it all. ofAnd of surfing’snow, most famous waves. you can too in this exclusive portfolio.
Aperture There’s salt in the air, your stomach’s in your throat, and your body’s soaked in adrenaline. Welcome to winter on the North Shore.
Tavi Goes Mad Trust
Baeseman
us, you’ve never seen Tavarua quite like this. Aamion Goodwin and Ian
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OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace
Heff
Contents V7#11 November 2010
10 Free Parking Early season hole in one. 24 Masthead T he men and women who live to bind paper, word, and design into one cohesive product—the magazine. 26 Ed Note Welcome to winter, baby. 28 Howzit The surfing world gets caught in the act. 30 Inside Section M ick Fanning pens a book, longboarders take center stage at the 17th annual Ole Longboard Classic, some stuff we like, John Florence on the brink of greatness, how to order a board, and so much more!
Expires Dec 31, 2010
Expires Dec 31, 2010
94 News and Events The groms go big in Bali for the Oakley World Pro Junior; Carissa Moore wins yet again. 102 FreePlugs Because really, who doesn’t like a quick pat on the back and a kind word?
V7#11 November
Ian Walsh Photo: Bruno Lemos Ian Walsh dropped it all to drop in on this Fijian monster.
Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter
Free Thinkers Lantana Hoke
Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Bernie Baker, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock
Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Brandon Ells, Paul Fischer, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Ryan Gamma, Jeff Hall, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson
Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson
Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURFon the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm. A product of Manulele, Inc. 2010
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Editor’s note
Heff
Hank Gaskell, warming up for winter.
The First Breath of Winter Go ahead. Take a deep breath; pull the air into your lungs and let it filter through your head and sweep into your sinuses. It should smell like wet salt and open-ended promises. It should smell like winter. And every year, when the luring scent of that first north swell wafts itself up from V-land and into our office, the frontrunners of a thousand dreams overtake the North Shore like a fog. And when that happens, there’s a tangible sense of excitement that mounts in the FREESURF office. Like bees stirring themselves into a frenzied buzz, the office comes alive with anticipation as photographers dash in and out of their desks, their trunks dripping wet and their memory cards stock full of the first run of the high season. “Sunset’s 10 feet and I can’t really talk right now, but we’re getting some keepers,” they exclaim through hurried breaths. I smile, watching them relish in the turning of the seasons, knowing that the doors are open and we’re doing business in our own backyard again. The transition to winter feels like it can almost be calculated to the minute. One moment you’re sweating in your sleep and the next you’re bundled up in the covers, the roar of a strong north swell setting the cadence for the night. The air grows crisp, the lighting gets moody, the north swells grow, and winter steps through the door. Town takes a backseat to Country and everything feels right in the world. From this point on, we’re in game mode over here. We’ve stopped relying on the buoys to dictate when we’re shooting and are relying solely
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on what we see from our commute. Our interviews are now conducted between sessions and we’re even squeezing in the occasional lunchtime surf again. Life is good and we’re stoked. And judging by how this mag is stacking up editorially, you should be, too. Between the breakout heats at the Hurley Pro (flip on over to page 42 to see what 21st century surfing is supposed to look like) and what is quite possibly the heaviest
“ Sunset’s 10 feet and I can’t really talk right now, but we’re getting some keepers,” they exclaim through hurried breaths. surf we’ve seen at Tavarua ever—we’ve stuffed this issue full of top-shelf photography and editorial to say the least. Here hoping you enjoy reading it half as much as we enjoyed putting it together. See you in the water. —Jeff Mull
Editor’s note
Heff
Hank Gaskell, warming up for winter.
The First Breath of Winter Go ahead. Take a deep breath; pull the air into your lungs and let it filter through your head and sweep into your sinuses. It should smell like wet salt and open-ended promises. It should smell like winter. And every year, when the luring scent of that first north swell wafts itself up from V-land and into our office, the frontrunners of a thousand dreams overtake the North Shore like a fog. And when that happens, there’s a tangible sense of excitement that mounts in the FREESURF office. Like bees stirring themselves into a frenzied buzz, the office comes alive with anticipation as photographers dash in and out of their desks, their trunks dripping wet and their memory cards stock full of the first run of the high season. “Sunset’s 10 feet and I can’t really talk right now, but we’re getting some keepers,” they exclaim through hurried breaths. I smile, watching them relish in the turning of the seasons, knowing that the doors are open and we’re doing business in our own backyard again. The transition to winter feels like it can almost be calculated to the minute. One moment you’re sweating in your sleep and the next you’re bundled up in the covers, the roar of a strong north swell setting the cadence for the night. The air grows crisp, the lighting gets moody, the north swells grow, and winter steps through the door. Town takes a backseat to Country and everything feels right in the world. From this point on, we’re in game mode over here. We’ve stopped relying on the buoys to dictate when we’re shooting and are relying solely
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on what we see from our commute. Our interviews are now conducted between sessions and we’re even squeezing in the occasional lunchtime surf again. Life is good and we’re stoked. And judging by how this mag is stacking up editorially, you should be, too. Between the breakout heats at the Hurley Pro (flip on over to page 42 to see what 21st century surfing is supposed to look like) and what is quite possibly the heaviest
“ Sunset’s 10 feet and I can’t really talk right now, but we’re getting some keepers,” they exclaim through hurried breaths. surf we’ve seen at Tavarua ever—we’ve stuffed this issue full of top-shelf photography and editorial to say the least. Here hoping you enjoy reading it half as much as we enjoyed putting it together. See you in the water. —Jeff Mull
• To help you make the holidays more pleasant, • Futures has the perfect present. • Rob Machado’s new bamboo - carbon fin, • Is made to help the environment win. • What could improve on this action? • All of the proceeds go to the Rob Machado Foundation. • Put them in your board for speed and flow; • The only thing you need now is Rob's Afro!
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Kirsten / ASP
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Kirsten / ASP
5
Heff
Baeseman
4
Heff
2
Cestari
ASP / Cestari
1
howzit 5. 6. 7. 8.
Just close your eyes and picture 10. If someone is blowing up in a heat, it’s not considered rude to point. Zeke Lau prepares himself for the view from the top. Built for speed and built for the air, Matt Archbold and Nathan Fletcher set the groundwork for progressive surfing. Freddy P., looking downright dastardly. Say what you will about the new tweaks to the World Tour, but it’s hard not to dig the numbered jerseys. Necessity breeds invention. There’s another double-rainbow joke in here somewhere.
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inside section
JP Van Swae
How to order a Board
There’s something to be said for honesty. Brutal honesty. And when it comes to ordering a surfboard, you should treat your shaper like a priest at confession. The good, the bad, the ugly—just let it all out. If you’re a bit overweight, spill the beans and give the man your honest number. If you’re new to the sport, the quickest way to find your footing is on a board that’s suitable to your skill level. If you’ve been riding the same dimensions since you were 17, well, my friend, design has changed considerably. That being said, don’t you
Leave Some of the Details to the Shaper: “For me, sometimes people will come to me to order a board and they’ll ‘over order.’ They’ll have all these specifics for every detail and they won’t leave a lot of room for the shaper to do what he does,” says Andrew Loska, who shapes under the Loska Surfboards label. “I think the best thing to do is to give your shaper your height, weight, skill level, and what breaks you like to surf. Otherwise, if you get too lost in trying to throw in a lot of detail, I’ve found that some people end up with a board they don’t like.” Meet Face-to-Face: “I’m always stoked to meet the person I’m shaping a board for in person,” says Loska, “that way I can size them up and know that if they’re a little heavier in their upper body, I can add a bit of volume.” Don’t Be a Tease: “I’d say that for every 10 people that tell me they want to order a board, maybe one will actually end up doing it,” says our in-house shaper and art director Richard Hutter who cuts boards under the Tempest label. “If you’re —Andrew Loska serious about ordering a board, I’m stoked. But try and follow through.” Above All, Be Honest: This goes without saying, but everyone walks away from the process better off when you speak the gospel about your skill level.
“ For me, sometimes people will come to me to order a board and they’ll ‘over order.’ They’ll have all these specifics for every detail and they won’t leave a lot of room for the shaper to do what he does best.” think that it’s time to try something new? In the end, it all comes down to an honest heart-to-heart with your shaper. Here’s a few talking points to consider next time you order a board.
After watching the Hurley Pro, we’re pretty damn sure the level of surfing on the World Tour has taken a turn for the
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Photos: Courtesy Hi-Tech
inside section
C
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The Head of the Class
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Kekaula Campbell Claims the 17th Annual Ole Longboard Classic
MY
photo: bishow
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KALANI DAVID, MATT ARCHBOLD, CJ HOBGOOD, TYLER NEWTON, LIAM MCNAMARA
On the Valley Island, Kekaula Campbell swept the open men and his age group title for the second straight year at the 17th annual Ole Longboard Classic, Saturday at Launiupoko Park. At the long-running event, more than 180 competitors surfed head-high waves in calm conditions at the south side beach park. And according to the judges, Campbell surfed the consistent waves better than anyone else. Campbell, a 32-year-old middle school counselor at Kamehameha Schools, was named first on all three judges’ sheets in the open final. The open division final included two other former champions, Mau Ah Hee (2006, 2008) and Roger “Aka” Pai (2005). His age group heat included 2008 winner Keoki Pfaelzter. “It was a really good field,” Campbell said. “There were so many good guys in that final. I didn’t expect to win this year, I feel really lucky.” With Campbell having to start work at school, he hasn’t had a lot of time to practice. “I’ve hardly been longboarding. I’ve been riding my longboard at Shark Pit the last two nights just to get some reps in.” Taryn Apo, the open women champion, also has been busy with school. The 25-year-old Wailuku resident, and 2003 Baldwin graduate, is starting her first full year of teaching at her alma mater. “I haven’t surfed in three weeks because of the school year starting,” Apo said. “I’ve been spending 10 hours a day at school, working on weekends, planning my lessons at home.” Apparently, time in the class, and in the water, pays off. surreal // Mark our words: Kelly will win 10 // Dane may
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Tamarindo August 22, 2008, Thursday, 1:56 am: It’s not easy being a surf photographer in Costa Rica. It’s a profession that doesn’t always come with a fat paycheck, but Fabian Sanchez doesn’t consider it work. Simpy put, he does it for the love of exploring the beautiful country he calls home, and for the thrill that all who chase waves can understand. The white flashes bouncing off the walls demand the attention of those left home. The sky is announced by challenging percussions. Thirty-second intervals between each strike. It’s time to go and meet with the vagaries of the thunderstorm. The cold wind threatened to bring rain, no time to get to the mountains and the stars became a stage for the show. —Fabian Sanchez
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inside section
Stuff We Like Forgiveness Rock Records by Broken Social Scene
with EcoUsable®
a proud supplier of the Vans® Triple Crown of Surfing.
Long before Indie became mainstream, Broken Social Scene and their ecleticic band had been marching to the beat of their own drum. Frontlined by Kevin Drew, Brendan Canning, and the occasional appearances by Feist, the Canadian band has been at the forefront of mixing beats and melodies into their own eclectic-but-cohesive sound for their albums. Their latest collection, “Forgiveness Rock Records” sees BSS continue to move in a direction that’s difficult to categorize, but even more difficult not to love. It’s hard not to get into this album, especially after listening to “Chase Scene” and “Art House Director.”
Stories of Rell Sunn: Queen of Makaha As someone who embodied the aloha spirit, whether it was through hosting her legendary menehune event at Makaha or something as simple as her infectious smile, it’s no surprise that Rell has become one of surfing’s most loved and cherished personas. It was with this train of thought that Greg Ambrose compiled the book Stories of Rell Sunn: Queen of Makaha. Filled with first-person testimonies and memories of Rell written by a Who’s Who in the surfing world, the book serves to preserve Rell’s spirit. If you’re in the mood to rediscover the purist meaning of aloha, pick up this book.
Scratching the Surface
When the much anticipated and even more hyped Modern Collective debuted last year, we were a little curious as to why Julian Wilson wasn’t among the collective. It wasn’t until we learned that Julian had his own high-action biopic flick, Scratching the Surface, that things started to make sense. Produced by Irons Bros. Productions and directed Matt Beauchesne (the same guy who brought you Dude Cruise) Scratching the Surface tells the story of a young Aussie prodigy’s rise to fame. Don’t expect a moody avant-garde approach to this film, because that’s not the directive. This is high-speed surfing, a mix of current, melodic beats, and a glimpse into the life of a surfer that will surely dominate the next 10 years. The movie is now available for download on iTunes.
be a more exciting surfer, but Owen Wright can win // Maui’s
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inside section
Surf for Your Life
Mick Fanning is more human than you’d like to believe. Like the rest of us, he eats when he’s hungry, sleeps when he’s tired, and has felt the unapologetic sting of defeat along with the gratifying rush of victory. Mick’s made mistakes, acknowledged problems, and come back from what could have been a career-ending injury to claim his first world title. It’s his list of trials and tribulations that keep us rooting for the Coolangatta Kid. He’s one of us. In his latest book, Surf for Your Life, Mick, along with famed author Tim Baker, chronicle the life of one of surfing’s blue-collar heroes. From his humble beginnings as the son of a trucker and nurse, to the death of his brother and a horrific injury that pulled his hamstring straight from the bone, to the highs of his first surf back after a surgery to winning a world title, Surf for Your Life lays it all out in the open for the reader. Not quite a typical autobiography, Surf for Your Life weaves insight into the pages with Mick’s Tips that break up the story of the 28-year-old’s road to becoming a world champion with words straight from Fanning’s mouth on everything from advancing your technique to how to pack for a trip. Whether you’re a young grom hungry for info on your favorite surfer or just interested in a gripping story of redemption, Surf for Your Life is definitely worth a read.
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Hank Gaskell is the most deserving surfer around. A N A R C H Y E Y E W E A R . C O M
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inside section
Spotlight: The Year of John Florence John Florence needs no introduction. Nearly a decade ago, John became the poster child grom for the surf world. Blonde haired, tanned, and already pulling in at Pipeline well before his 10th birthday, he embodied the dream of youth in Hawaii like no one else. He’d become the quintessential grom. But over the course of the last year, John has really come into his own, both as a surfer and a man. His voice has deepened and his turns shriek power. His early season showing on the North Shore has already sent the media abuzz with talk of how “he’s truly coming into his own.” After seeing him dominate everything from churning Sunset to playful and progressive sessions at the Sandbar first hand, we’ve become firm believers in the promise of John. This winter will be marked by many things we can’t predict, but if there’s one thing we’re firing-squad sure of, it’s that the 2010/2011 season will signal the beginning of John Florence’s transition into the top-tier status as one of the world’s most adept surfers.
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Baeseman
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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Hats off
to Hurley
and the
Top 32 “Would you like an umbrella to provide you with some shade while you’re working, sir?” “What?” I double-take. I haven’t taken a single photo yet and the 2010 Hurley Pro has suddenly become my favorite contest. The nice dudes in blue Hurley shirts diggin’ umbrellas in the sand were only part of it. Then there was the good, hot coffee with breakfast and lunch. The VIP area with large-screen TVs, chairs, tables, couches….the media and athlete support couple with efficient staging set the tone for an A-plus experience. But really, it was the consistent 4- to 5-foot Trestles and the best surfing on the planet that made the Hurley Pro a pinnacle moment in surfing history. It was the perfect combination of evolved event planning, swell direction, board design and creative athletics that delivered the best performance surfingof all time. —Mike Latronic
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Hold Nothing Back
Kirsten / ASP
At what is arguably the best lineup in the world to showcase tech surfing, Dane Reynolds continued to rewrite the book on progression at the Hurley Pro at Lowers. Proving that the days of three to the beach are as dead as the APE Glove, the competitive surfer of the future will lay waste to surfing for the score, but will excel the sport in the same fashion in a contest that he would in a freesurf. The days of playing it safe are over. Welcome to an era of total commitment.
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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Style Survives
Rowland / ASP
A watershed moment in competitive surfing, the Hurley Pro dictated that progression and a balls-to-the-wall attitude have become the de facto traits of the future pro. But in an age where barriers are constantly being broken, the one factor that remains as present as ever is style. As Brett Simpson so gracefully dictated at the event, if you can’t put the air/turn/barrel of your life together without a touch of style, then you’ve got some serious work to do. Grace will lead the charge in the coming decades.
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Go Big
Seq: Latronic
For decades, the physical embodiment of the picture-perfect surfer looked something like Tom Carroll. Short and strong was the order of the day. Well, those days are gone. With the onset of surfers that stand over 6-feet, we’ve learned that the leverage and recoil of a long body can produce feats of grace in the water that we’ve never before seen. At the Hurley Pro, Jordy Smith reached to the heavens with his goliath frame and proved that the big boys now have plenty of game. For surfing, tall is the new short.
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HSA
HAWA I I S U R F I N G AS S O C I AT I O N
Evolve or Die
At a venue that gave rise to Kelly Slater’s dominance, it was only fitting that Lowers would provide the canvas for him to reshape the current standards of professional surfing. Carving 360s, full-rotation whips, and high-speed rail work all blended together with a sense of nonchalance are now to be expected in every heat. And for that, we can thank Kelly and the Hurley Pro. “What can I say? What a week. We looked at the swell forecast and were going ‘look what we’re going to get this week.’ I’ve got to thank Bob Hurley and the whole Hurley crew,” said Kelly, “I think they just brainstormed and put a lot of good ideas together for us. The experience was just awesome.”
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Hurley
Surfing Gets Serious
Seq: Latronic
For all of our talk of progression, there’s still something to be said for hard work and complete dedication to your craft. That being said, you’d be hard pressed to find another surfer on tour that’s as committed to winning as Mick Fanning. The sense of professionalism that Fanning has brought to the tour is unparalleled and has helped to foster the rise of the modern pro surfer. As Mick demonstrated at the Hurley Pro with his fast, fluid lines and perfect arcs, if you want to be at the top of the game in this day and age, that means an all-out approach to training both in and out of the water.
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nixonnow.com
Fear the Youth
Seq: Latronic
Whether they were an unassuming onlooker or a nine-time champ, it was impossible not to take notice of Kolohe Andino at the Hurley Pro. Already a standout junior, as the figurehead for a generation that will undoubtedly usher surfing into stratospheric conditions, Kolohe proved that the next crop of surfers may be surfing’s version of the The Greatest Generation with every fluid turn and jaw-dropping punt he stuck at the event. This is new age surfing defined and if you thought things were spinning fast now, wait till the kids takeover.
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Taj Burrow’s been a mainstay on the tour for more than a decade. When Taj first came on the scene, his prowess above the lip made him one of the most dynamic surfers on tour. Over 10 years later, Taj’s approach is still the stuff of legends. At Lowers, an event that has seen some of his finest hours, Taj continued to impress and show us that his surfing never goes stale. With turns like this, we could see Taj at the top of the pack for another decade.
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Rowland / ASP
Forever at the Front
The Wright Time
Hurley
As pure of a surfing animal as they come, Owen Wright represents the new breed of professionalism and the new crop of Aussies set to take center stage on the World Tour. Well rounded, Owen showcased the precision and technical surfing of a well-seasoned pro 10 years his senior. On his backhand, Owen would go well beyond vert from the outside and stomp a huge air to seal a score, mixing power, finesse, and a bit of fancy footwork to become the standout young blood of the event.
The Exception to the Rule
Rowland / ASP
For all the hype we’ve preached about progression, there remains an exception to the rule. Yes, the Hurley Pro shifted our attitudes and approach to competitive surfing, but you’ve got to learn to walk before you fly. And if there’s one person that embodies a solid well-rounded grasp of the fundamentals of winning a heat, it’s Bede Durbidge. Having found success at Lowers before, Durbo once again clawed his way to the finals this year, mixing in power with his own brand of progression and sharp mental approach. He may not be the flashiest fella, but Bede’s proved that if you want to win, you’ve got to have it all. And that begins with the basics.
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As evidenced by World Tour rookie and Brazilian progressive surfing connoisseur Jadson Andre the new body of the World Tour includes not only a pair of thunderously powerful legs, but a pair of wings as well. If you want to hang as a competitor in the next few years, you’ve got to be able to get lofty at the drop of a hat. Look for the rise of the Brazilian contingency to usher in a new wave of mixed-bag aerial surfing. n
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Rowland / ASP
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Hank Gaskell, speed to burn.
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Heff
Look up the definition of a hard working surfer and you’ll see Kalani Chapman’s name. After a sweltering summer of chasing south swells, Kalani revels in the joys of a Rockies Ramp.
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Seq: Heff
With a pre-game showing that has left the North Shore abuzz, we’re wagering our paychecks that this winter will prove golden for John Florence.
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Latronic Heff
With hacks like this, JD Irons is quickly living up to his family name.
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Baeseman
CJ Kanuha, reaching for the heavens with this lofty punt on the Big Island.
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Heff
Makai McNamara, poised for great things this winter.
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Heff
Let’s all take a moment and personally welcome winter back into our lives.
Daniel Jones strings one out at Sunset.
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Heff Heff
Kiron Jabour has a firm handle on surfing’s steps to a successful shredding.
Baeseman
A prodigy if there ever was one, Kalani David has melded the power, progression, and finesse of a surfer twice his age. With turns like this on lockdown, it’s hard to fathom where this kid will take the sport in the next decade.
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Latronic
To get an idea of just how fast Hank Gaskell is going, check the spray on his bottom turn.
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Heff
Eli Olsen, finding a bit of room to move at V-Land.
Nelson Sadoy demonstrates pure Hawaiian style in the midst of an early season Sunset drainer.
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Heff
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Baeseman
Torrey Meister, breaking horizons and whipping necks in the process. n
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Heff
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An heiress to a surfing dynasty, Coco Ho has proven to be as much of a surfer built on grit as she is built on glam. Here’s Coco, displaying a textbook, blue-collar bottom turn.
Coco is the daughter of Michael Ho, a North Shore fixture who twice won the Hawaiian triple Crown as well as claiming the 1982 Pipe Mastsers. Her uncle Derek Ho was Hawaii’s first ASP World Champ, and big brother Mason is also a rising threat in the surf world. With that kind of pedigree, some serious talent of her own and a cute girlish charm, this girl has been turning heads for years as an NSSA champ and North Shore standout. Currently ranked 7th on the World Tour, Coco is smoothly making the transition from girl wonder to formidable force on tour. Coco qualified for the tour last year and quickly settled into competition mode. She was the only rookie in her class to score an event win, and was named Rookie of the Year by the ASP. Despite her impressive resume, the girl stays humble, blending her natural competitiveness with an overriding sense of just wanting to have fun. Surprisingly short, with an endearing and easy laugh, Coco’s bubbly personality and small frame belies her ferocity in the water. I caught up with the talented surfer at her house in Pupukea just before she jetted off to Portugal for the Rip Curl Pro to munch on some dried mango and talk about life on tour, what it was like growing up on the North Shore as Hawaiian surfing royalty, and her love of Christmas.
Is this where you grew up? You can’t beat the location. Your family is pretty well-known in the surfing world, can you talk about what it’s like growing up in a surf dynasty? Did you feel a lot of pressure as the child of a pro surfer?
Your parents were pretty supportive then?
Yup. I’ve never moved once in my life. I love it.
He travels everywhere with you?
Well, my dad never forced us to surf. The only reason I learned was because I started following my brother to the beach, usually just to Shores. My brother would surf and I would play on the boogie board, and one day he gave me a board and that was it.
Most of the world tour events. And if he doesn’t, Dave Riddle, my coach from Volcom, comes. You always have to have someone standing behind you or you’re pretty lost.
At first my mom didn’t even notice, she just thought I was going to the beach every day. When she realized how much I liked surfing, she was like, oh my god! Your hair, your skin! Typical mom stuff.
No, I didn’t really know who he was in the surfing world. I mean, I heard his name on the loudspeakers at contests. And everyone was really nice to me—no I’m kidding. But, actually I had to start begging my dad to teach me, coach me, and be hard on me. I was like, c’mon dad! Carissa’s dad does it! I had to beg him for help. But once he saw I really wanted it, he did everything he could.
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Do you train with your dad?
Where is your favorite surf spot here at home?
I travel with my dad, and we surf together at home. He says things like, oh that wave was sick, or that board looks good, but he’s not standing on the beach yelling or anything like that. Physical training I do on my own. He comes to every event though, as my coach and dad.
I grew up so close to V-land, and that’s such a fun place to surf, but it can be really frustrating. It’s such a small place that everyone’s sitting on each other. I was pretty late to Rockies, I just started surfing it when I was 15, but that’s my favorite. It’s got rights and lefts, and it’s always the same crew out there so it’s so fun.
Heff
What is it like being a young woman, living on the North Shore, surfing with all the boys? I guess I’m just used to it, cause out in the water it’s the same faces that are sitting in my living room. I’m pretty immune to it. But yeah, the North Shore has a lot of guys. There’s still not a lot of girls. When I’m here during the off-season, I feel like the only girl. It’s okay in the lineup because, especially growing up, they’re all my brother’s friends so I always felt like okay, we’re hanging out at the house and now we’re going surfing. Otherwise, if it was a girl without a brother or if she didn’t know the guys, she’d be in the water like, oh my God. Way too much testosterone!
So you get along with your brother?
Is there a good bit of rivalry between the islands?
Oh yeah. I think we have one of the best relationships a brother and sister can have, especially because of our age difference. We’re only two and half years apart. My friends are always telling me, you don’t know how lucky you are to have a big brother like that! And I really started realizing how lucky I am. We never really argue.
No, I mean, NSSA days were like that, and when Andy started winning titles, but now not at all because there’s so few of us on tour that everyone has to cling to everyone else. I like it much better like that. But I was happy for the North Shore when I qualified.
Really? Never? Seriously, no fighting. Mason’s just the funniest human, even if he wants to say something mean, he just can’t.
What is it like for you being on tour now? When I was growing up, and I started realizing there was such a thing as a world tour, I would always look who’s on it and it was only like, Andy and Bruce and everyone on Kauai, then Freddy made it and Megan was on it, and Rochelle. I feel like there weren’t as many people from the North Shore as there could have been. When I qualified, I was so happy for the North Shore. I was like, yay, one more candidate! People would be like, yeah! Andy’s from Kauai, and I’d be like, No! He’s from Hawaii!
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What about actually traveling and competing around the world?
With an illustrious World Tour start, Coco has proven her mettle among the best with swopping top turns like this.
Well, it’s been non-stop since the day I qualified. I just don’t want to take any of it for granted. It’s been such a good time, and I’ve learned so much. Every time I come home, everyone’s like, you look so much more grown up! I think, if anything, I’ve grown so much the past two years. In my surfing, as well as personally. It’s been such a good time.
What’s the worst part for you? Any big dramas between girls? Nah. Um….I guess, obviously the traveling can be pretty tiring, overnighting in the airports and stuff, but if you just dodge that, it’s such a good time. You’re with all your friends, and you’re usually in really nice places. I don’t know, just being away from home and missing other opportunities. Like, I couldn’t graduate with my high school. I was home schooled. I still had a sick graduation, but I didn’t get to walk with them, prom, and stuff like that. But I’m 19 now so that’s not an option.
how did it feel to be Rookie of the Year? It was kind of a surprise to everyone, especially since I was the last one to qualify. I honestly didn’t think I was ready for the tour yet, but when you’re on tour is when you really push yourself. You can not feel ready and then you get there and you have to be ready. My first event I had Silvana in round three, and I didn’t even think much about it, but now looking back I’m like, wow, I can’t believe I didn’t even care that I was with Silvana! I was just like, yeah! Come on! So I think being the underdog rookie helped me so much. There was so much hype that Sally would be Rookie of the Year because she qualified first. I think that blew it all over my head. And then it came down to us two, and I just didn’t expect it at all. It was the best feeling.
In five years, I want to just keep pushing my surfing and well, the reason everyone is on tour is to become world champ, but I want to make sure that I’m still enjoying myself and helping support the people around me, not being selfish and like, I need to be number one! I just want to have fun and push my surfing and have people notice that. In ten years? 29. Wow. On tour? Maybe. I think I could still be on tour. The men are getting old and are still on tour. So maybe I could still be on tour but if not, maybe kids and a family? In the later years of my career, I want to help support the kids on the North Shore, maybe do something to help.
Heff
What are your long term surfing or personal goals? Where do you see yourself in five years? Or ten?
Coco, submerged in her element.
I always say I would be playing tennis. I played in elementary but I was never that good, but maybe if I kept with it I’d be good by now. I couldn’t see myself doing marketing, in an office or anything. Hopefully when my career on tour ends I won’t have to do that. I got good grades, it’s not like I’m dumb, it’s just after traveling and getting to do my own thing, I would probably lose it in an office.
Where’s the wave you most want to surf? I haven’t been to Tahiti. The waves there look so fun. And it looks so pretty. It’s so close! I don’t know how I haven’t gone yet.
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Heff
If you weren’t surfing, what do you think you’d be doing?
Do you like surfing bigger waves? I’m not like, I need huge waves! This is what I’ve been waiting for! But I like the thrill of it, like big Sunset. I’ve never towed. If the opportunity comes up I would, but I’m not going to seek it out. If it comes it comes. If not I’ll just stick to Sunset, and if it’s too big I’ll just go to the mall.
What do you do for fun? At home, I’m kind of boring because there are no girls my age. But when my friends are home it’s always dinner, movies, or going to the mall. On the road, with all my friends, we relax, watch movies. Shopping is a big part of being a girl. Yeah, I think shopping takes the cake. And I love going to the movies.
Heff
Building on one of surfing’s preeminent aquatic families, Coco has weaved herself a style equally built upon power and finesse both in and out of the lineup.
No, I haven’t seen it. Do you have anything else you’re working on that you’re excited about? Nike 6.0 is making a girl’s movie. So we’ve been trying to squeeze in as many events as we can. With me and Carissa on tour it’s kind of hard. I think I’m in last place for footage, but it’s been fun. I’ve been having a good time with all the girls. I’ve done two boat trips to Indo and a Mexico trip. We try to film before contests, but it’s pretty much impossible with the crowds. But I’m doing my best to fit it all together.
It seems like I go to every movie that comes out, but you know that movie, First Christmas, with Chris Brown?
Oh man, I love Christmas. That movie is still my favorite. I’ve never missed one at home. I live for Christmas. I make Christmas CDs, go shopping at night, look at lights, all of it. All my friends staying with me are like, really? I ruin it for everyone. I’m like, we’re not surfing! We’re going to get the tree, and then we’re going to go shopping, and then we’re going to sing. Everyone else just wants to surf.
And the question all the boys want to know...are you single? I am, I am single. Having a boyfriend would be cool, but I couldn’t see him not being a surfer. The only boys I know are surfers. I’m on tour, and I’m busy, but my eyes are always open. But I haven’t found one to commit to yet.
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Do you think the North Shore will always be your home? Well, we’ll see what happens. I would definitely want my kids to go to Sunset Elementary. That’s where I went. When the Pipe events are on, you can hear it from the school; I could hear my dad’s name being called. And the teachers would come get me and be like, oh your dad made his heat, and they’d walk me across the street. Everyone’s so supportive.
When did you start homeschooling? I went to Kahuku until 10th grade, then I home schooled my last 2 years. All the surfers did it, so I graduated with some of them. I didn’t get to walk with all the other kids. That’s the only thing I’m sad about.
Well, I’m sure they’re sad they’re not on the pro tour. Aww, thanks. That makes me feel a little better. n
Carey
What’s your favorite movie?
Heather Brown Surf Art from the North Shore of Oahu Heatherbrownart.com
Too Big To Fail Cloudbreak Crashes for A Die-Hard Crew As Told by Ian Walsh, Photos by Bruno Lemos
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With one of the biggest swells on memory to light up Tavarua, the famed left showed that she can handle just about anything. Riding a 6’8�, Australian Laurie Towner went head over heels more than once but reaffirmed his status as one of the most fearless men in surfing on this fateful swell.
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fiji
A Tavarua mainstay, Kauai’s Aamion Goodwin has been traveling to the remote Fijian outpost for more than a decade. After threading himself through heavers like this, it’s clear that all that time in the water paid off in spades.
F
or decades, when we picture Tavarau, we envision long, azure-toned barrels sliding down a Fijian reef. We imaging ourselves in a paradise with friends, laughing as the waves of our dreams unfold before us. The reality of that dream—or perhaps more accurately nightmare—was something entirely different earlier this fall as Cloudbreak transitioned from the girl of our dreams and into the most terrifying, menacing thing we’ve ever seen. Fifteen foot, barreling top to bottom and almost as wide as she was tall, Tavi came to life for a daring group of hell-raising Aussies and Hawaiians in what has become one of the most talked about sessions of the year. Lucky for us, we get ahold of Maui’s Ian Walsh, a man known for rolling the dice with his life, for the goods on what really went down that session.
FREESURF: So the photos of this Tavi Swell to End all Swells are everywhere. Can you describe what was going on when you decided to gear up and head down to Fiji to chase this swell? Ian Walsh: I was in Mexico doing a shoot for Fox with no Internet so I was calling my brother, Luke, and asking him to look at the swell and read me back the forecast so I could try to make a call to go or not. After a ton of phone calls
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and checking flights, I finally pulled the trigger about two hours before I left, hopped in a taxi for a few hours, then took three flights to Mexico City and finally one to LAX. And while I was running through the airport, I had my brother meet me and drop off my life jackets. Then I finally hopped on the plane for
FS: Can you talk about the vibe in the water out there? IW: Yeah, the vibe in the water was really good, there was a bunch of my friends from Maui down there so it kinda felt like surfing at home. FS: It looked like a lot of the Aussies that were there were pretty undergunned. I heard that Laurie Towner was riding a 6’8” and paid pretty dearly for it. Were you guys tripping when you saw em rock up on their boards? IW: I think Laurie had a bigger board in the start of the session but broke it. But it was really sick to see him going that hard on a small board. Sometimes you just have to ride what you have—all those guys were charging. Kohl Christensen was on a bigger board and had some amazing waves, too. That wave has huge paddle potential. FS: I think I heard that you were the only guy towing in that day and it looks like you got a few mental ones from the point. Can you describe your session in a bit of detail? IW: There were about three other skis out there as well. When we first got out it had a weird wind but looked
Ian Walsh
Laurie Towner
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Dylan Fish
fiji
Ian Walsh
really solid as the sun started coming up, then a couple hours later the wind started to go more offshore. I had a few waves that were okay that morning and I decided while I was sitting out the back that the next wave I get I’m going to fade and try to pump out the barrel. Then the next set that stood up was the biggest I’d seen all morning. As I let go of the rope I looked down the line and saw a huge blue wall standing up a lot taller down the line and I could tell the wave was going to doubleup. I stuck to my plan and faded then took two big pumps as I pulled in and the wave just shoveled down the reef. The foam ball hit me twice and I thought I was gonna come flying out but as the wave started to spit and the foam ball hit me a third time and just cart-wheeled me off my board. After experiencing just how much power that wave has and getting a pretty violent beating, I took two more solid waves on the head. But the rest of the session was super fun. I got a couple more solid sets and the wind completely died before it swung around and went onshore.
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FS: So how would you say that session compares to some of your other more memorable tow sessions? IW: That session will be burned in my memory for a long time for sure. It was nice to surf somewhere different and see the potential that place could hold. FS: Did seeing Cloubreak handle at this size change your
perception of the wave? IW: Yup, I definitely feel like that wave could handle whatever the ocean throws at it if the winds are right. FS: What’d did you take away from that session? IW: I took away a pretty big psych to paddle it the next time we go down there for a big swell.... n
kirsten / ASP
news & events
The Hot Streak
Carissa Moore Wins Rip Curl Pro Portugal
ClarksSurfArtHawa ii.com Now AvAilAble At wylANd GAlleries
At 18 years old, with a career that’s been steeped in glitter and potential for more than a decade, Carissa Moore is on the hunt for world domination. We’ve known this day would come from the first time we picked up our jaws up off the floor after watching her dismantle Kewalos as a pintsized menehune. And now, with a win at the US Open, a World Tour win in New Zealand, and yet another win at the Rip Curl Pro Portugal, that moment has arrived. Perhaps more accurately, Carissa Moore has arrived. And she means business. After an admittedly rocky start to her World Tour campaign, Carissa moved another inch closer to being in the title hunt when she smoked current titleholder Stephanie Gilmore at the Rip Curl Pro Portugal at Peniche. On a shifting-but-rippable beachbreak, Moore lit up half of Western Europe when she went straight up on her backhand to the tune of a 17.4 over Gilmore’s 8.6. “I’m really excited…my breath is taken away at the moment,” Carissa said in a quote to the ASP after her win. “I’ve just been trying to take it heat by heat and not think about who I’m coming up against all event, and focusing on my surfing each heat. I didn’t have too much time to think about it between the Semis and Final. The waves were so good so we had a quick turnaround, but once I was out there and I was looking at Steph [Gilmore], I was thinking, ‘wow, I’m in the Final with Steph right now.’” Perhaps what’s more impressive than Carissa’s stratospheric rise is the manner in which she’s done it. While you’d be hard-pressed to find another surfer on tour concerned with English finals and diplomas, Carissa had to skip out of the Peru event to graduate from Punahou, an accomplishment in its own right not taking into account the grueling travel schedule of the World Tour. “I don’t have any excuses now without school anymore,” Moore said. “It’s great to have that extra time to dedicate to surfing and training. I’m stoked to be where I’m at right now. I’ve never been to Puerto Rico before. [The following stop on the Women’s World Tour is the Rip Curl Search event somewhere in Puerto Rico] Each event is a new chance and a clean slate. I’ve heard they have some really fun waves and I can’t wait to get there.” As the women’s tour race heads into its final hurdles, we expect Carissa Moore’s winning streak to continue as she comes into the Hawaiian leg at Sunset Beach, an event that has born her the fruits of victory in the past.
Results Rip Curl Pro Portugal
Carissa Moore (HAW) Stephanie Gilmore (AUS)
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Robbo / ASP
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In what was arguably some of the finest conditions in recent memory, Australia’s Jack Freestone scalped himself one of the most coveted wins in junior surfing when he beat South Africa’s Dale Staples in the final at the Oakley World Pro Junior in perfect Balinese surf. Amid pumping 5-foot barrels at Keramas, the boys put on a show that was unparalleled in junior surfing. Full-whip airs, Mach-2 power carves, and foamball tubes were the norm of the event. There was no boundary. The rules were thrown out the window with every jaw-dropping turn. There was no playing it safe. Further proof that the next generation is progressing at leaps and bounds of its predecessors, each heat surfed at the event was on a World Tour level, a fact that left everyone from the announcers to the media pundits with the revelation that this event was a turning point in surfing. Five years from now, we can look back at this event in Bali and note that this is where everything changed. Throughout the comp, Hawaii was well represented with the likes of Oahu’s Kiron Jabour and Kauai’s Malia Manuel. Jabour, who has been building a formidable reputation in the past few years, anted up in Bali and looked to be the man to beat throughout the event. Time and again, he would come up with a last-minute tube to put the nail on the coffin on his competition. But unfortunately, Kiron’s streak would end in the quarters with a nail-biter loss to Aussie Mitch Crews. In the final, Australian upstart Jack Freestone went toe-to-toe with South African sensation Dale Staples. Throughout the event, both surfers cut their way through the thickest and most competitive counterparts the world could offer with the seamless precision that has made them the surfers that they are today. And after dispatching the world’s best, on the seventh day, they finally met each other. From the outset of the heat, the fireworks rained down on Bali as both Freestone and Staples traded mid-scoring waves. As the 35-minute final progressed, Freestone dropped a 9.57 on a smoker of a tube. From then on, Staples was on the hunt for a wave that could bring him back in the game. For what seemed like ages, the South African waited patiently. And finally, with the announcers counting down the clock like it was New Year’s Even in Times Square, a lump from the Continued on page 96
Robbo / ASP
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Robbo / ASP
Kiron Jabour
Tyler Newton
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horizon marched toward the competitors, manifesting itself into what looked to be a perfect barrel. Staples whipped around and pulled in behind the peak only to have the wave run away from him. That was it. The heat was over. Dale faltered and Jack Freestone had won, etching his name into a long-list of surfing greats with this coveted title. “I’m so stoked to win, so stoked. This is the biggest win in my career and the waves were just pumping out there,” said a visibly giddy Jack Freestone after the final. “I’m so happy, I can’t speak right now,” said Freestone. “That was so crazy that end bit. I thought Dale [Staples] made that barrel. It was so scary. I’m so happy.” Concluding the final, the Aussies let their pride shine and carried Freestone up the beach to the winner’s podium. “That’s the best win of my life,” he said. “Every heat I surfed was hard, but it was so worth it. I’m so stoked.” With this win, Freestone became the first Aussie to take the title since Joel Parkinson. Ever the consummate professional, Staples took his loss in stride and remained up beat with his result. “I was just really stoked to be out there and get a good result,” said Staples, who won US$5,000 for his efforts. “A second is still a really good result. I’m just happy to beat some of the best junior surfers in the world. Anyone could have been in that final.” Admittedly suffering from a bit of nerves throughout the heat, Staples recapped his last-ditch effort to steal the win back from Freestone. “I was really nervous,” he said. “I was waiting for a set wave all final. But it didn’t come until the end. I was hoping the last one would open up but it didn’t.” For the women, the Aussies have proven their dominance in the sport once again as Tyler Wright, who is well on track to eventfully do some damage the World Tour, claimed another win. Sister to World Tour surfer Owen Wright, you’d be hard pressed not to believe that this Continued on page 98
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Robbo / ASP
news & events
Malia Manuel Continued from page 96
family was genetically enhanced to be stellar surfers. In the final, taking on France’s Alizee Arnaud in the final, Wright had to claw her way to the win in the closest of heats and narrowly edged out the win with a 13.40 to 12.67. “It was a really tough battle out there,” said Wright, who won US$5,000 and gained 10,000 ranking points. “Alizee [Arnaud] was ripping and got two early scores on me. I knew I needed to step it up on my next waves so I just went for it. I’m so happy.” By “went for it” Wright pulled out a 7.5 to sweep away the victory. By event’s end, under the smoky Indonesian air with two winners crowned, everyone on hand knew that this was contest was special. Barriers were shattered by both sexes and the game was elevated to near-stratospheric proportions. As we alluded, this comp changed everything. Moving forward, the top-place finishers from the Oakley Pro Junior series will meet up to compete for the Billabong World Junior Championships in Narrabeen, Australia.
Results Men
Women
1 – Jack Freestone (AUS) 13.84 2 – Dale Staples (ZAF) 8.44 1 – Tyler Wright (AUS) 13.40 2 – Alizee Arnaud (FRA) 12.67
North shore
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Honolulu Symphony at Rumfire Proof that there’s not a whole lot your iPhone can’t do, Rip Curl has recently released an interactive game that you can play when you’re not actually shredding. According to a release from Rip Curl, the game allows the user to “travel the world searching out secret waves and surfing as ASP World Champions Mick Fanning and Stephanie Gilmore or put yourself in the game by creating a unique surfer.” And if that wasn’t enough for you, why not take Steph Gilmore’s word for it? “I just want to surf like Mick! It’s really cool that Mick and I are characters in the game—we’ve both been with Rip Curl for over 10 years and we grew up reading about and watching videos of Rip Curl’s first ever Search trips with Tom Curren and co. back in the ’80s. I’m going to play it all the time!” A mix of classical music and hip-hop, RumFire at the Sheraton Waikiki debuted 9…It’s Not What You Think featuring the sounds of local entertainers collaborating with Los Angeles based Maestro, the Double G, Gallegos from daKAH Hip Hop Orchestra this past October. “We were really excited to bring together the essential spirit of hip hop music with the symphonic sound of classical music, orchestrating the night with acoustic instruments, classical musicians, singers, rap and the sound of the DJ,” said local DJ Kutmaster Spaz. It’s hard to find a better venue for the event as Maestro “Double G” shared the stage with alumni from Hawaii’s Youth Symphony, musicians from Hawaii’s Evasive Species, Slapp Symphony and more, blending every imaginable form of music with the heart beat of the streets. In addition, the classically trained voices of Hawaii’s own Lea Woods Almanza and Starr Kalahiki were featured throughout the night and a good time was had by all.
INDOBOARD AVAILABLE AT:
Aloha Board Shop ■ Bike Factory Hawaii ■ Hawaiian Island Creations ■ Hawaiian South Shore ■ Wet Feet Store ■ Big Island Surf Shop ■ M. Miura Store ■ Hi Tech Sports ■ Polynesian Paddling Products W W W. I N D O B O A R D . C O M
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Kalani Vierra photos: Gibber
spaghettini
6/9/06
3:28 PM
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last look
Xx
There's a paper-thin line between standing in one of the holiest places in surfing and finding yourself in its version of an aquatic hell. Jamie O'Brien, comfortably walking the line.
Baeseman
coming next: An issue dedicated to the working-class surfer.
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