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5 Reasons She Surfs Better Than You pg 32

black

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not just a and

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Dane Reynolds Latronic

The

V7#4

Eric

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Free in Hawai‘i

FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

B a e s e m a n

Profile

F i s h

o u t

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w a t e r

CONNER COFFIN/PHOTO LATRONIC

Locked Up Boardshort

Nathan Fletcher.

Also check out the website for the latest CHIPPASODE.

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Baeseman

Free parking

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Proof that you don’t have to be a hell raiser to raise hell. Takayuki Wakita nestles in close with a beast.

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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Contents V7#4 April 2010

5 Reasons She Surfs Better Than You Vibrant,

poised and taking no prisoners, five young ladies define what’s next. pg 32

Aperture

Of contrast and consequence; shades of a North Shore winter. pg 42

Brilliance, Backstage

Latronic

The Eric Baeseman profile. pg 52

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flaunt

Flojos Swimwear Now Available

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Latronic

Contents V7#4 April 2010

12 Free Parking Wakita’s bowl 18 Masthead The names behind the mag 20 Editor’s Note At least he’s got drive 22 Howzit Random bits captured 24 Inside Section Speedos, Matisyahu, and one pro’s addictions 64 News and Events The state of legends, the wave of the year 68 Free Plugs An interview with Steph Gilmore 74 Pau Hana The senator will see you now 76 Last Look Bruce Irons in black and white

A product of Manulele, Inc. Volume 7 • Number 4 Publisher Mike Latronic

Editorial Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter

Free Thinkers Beau Flemister, Drewtoonz, Jack Kittinger, Siri Masterson, Noa Myers, Manny Pangilinan, Alex Wilson

Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Bernie Baker, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Damea Dorsey, Willi Edwards, Brandon Ells, Beau Flemister, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Kirby Fukunaga, Ryan Gamma, Noah Hamilton, Chris Hagan, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Buzzy Kerbox, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Christian Peralta, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Paul Teruya, Jimmy Wilson

Sales

NEW! Chocolate Strawberry Bowl

Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson

Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURFon the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com

The Chocolate Strawberry Bowl is a real treat! It’s a blend of Chocolate Moo’d, non-fat frozen yogurt & strawberries. Then it is topped off with organic granola, fresh bananas and dark chocolate chips. www.jambahawaii.com

Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

LIVE.LIKE.THIS>>KALANI DAVID>>shaper/G LENN PANG:get.yr.nxt.MAGIC BOARD.at>TCSURF .COM

Bruno Lemos

EDITOR’S NOTE

Nothing Routine about

the Morning Routine

Expires June 31, 2010

Expires June 31, 2010

My morning routine is a polished and simple one with each event orchestrated down to the minute. I’m in the shower by 7:20, at Starbucks by 8, on the freeway from Town to the office by 8:10. I relish in the comfort of the uniformity. But by far and away, my favorite time occurs between 8:15 and 9 o’clock. For that 45-minute stretch of time when I make my commute, my brain is free to wander in and out of focus, uncontrollably darting from the seemingly unimportant to the completely ridiculous.

Over the years, when my mind turns electric, I’ve learned not to fight its onset, but rather to embrace it wholeheartedly. For this Godly stretch of time, I’m a pot of 20 ingredients and ideas simmering into the perfect stew. It’s almost always somewhere between Ai‘ea and Wahi‘awa that this veritable smorgasbord of thought gels into a single epiphany, the grininducing realization of an idea working itself out and taking form.

But what is it about this environment that seems so conducive to churning out revelations that, at the time at least, seem to make perfect sense? It may be the music or the venti coffee working its way into my system, but I have another theory: I think it’s the fact that I’m letting my mind run completely unsupervised for 45 minutes a day, crisscrossing between the ethereal and the concrete. Creating connections that just don’t seem to link when they’re forced.

It was this medley of ideas that led to our cover. The modern, progressive whip set against a nostalgic black and white backdrop. The surfer portrayed in color, the masthead beaming, the juxtaposition of two opposites that, for some reason, just seem to work. This perfect shade of gray paying homage to the past while accepting the future.

Now onto you, dear reader. What sage-like advice can you pull from this rant? Here goes: We hope that from time to time, through the daily restraints and organizations that are the pillars of your life, you’re all able to do something so unbelievably simple yet oh-so difficult to do: Let your brain drift wherever it wants to. Because who knows, with any luck, you may unwittingly unearth a few bits of serene from the chaos. —Jeff Mull

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“I told you not to paddle out.”

Troll pencil joke…Marge Simpson joke…“shocker” joke. She has really nice teeth.

Figures for our lenses and music for our ears.

Plaid is the new golf.

Oh, there's my caddie.

You’d be smiling too.

You’re looking at the reason there aren’t more stickers slapped on every piece of anything on the North Shore. This guy, right here.

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

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Inside section

Questioning

Jason Shibata Jason Shibata is no stranger to the game. At one point or another, he’s played every role from wideeyed grom to traveling professional to marketing connoisseur. He’s chewed the dirt, stood on the podium, and now walks comfortably in the slippers of success. To be blunt, he knows this business well, and more importantly, he knows what it’s going to take for you to make it. So here’s a bit of advice to all you aspiring young pros: Heed the following words carefully if you want an enduring career in surfing.

FREESURF: You’ve worn a lot of hats in the sport over the years. For those of us not familiar with you, can you give us a quick recap on yourself?

JASON SHIBATA: Yeah, I’m 29 years old and grew up in Pearl City surfing Barbers Point. As a grom, I hung with Bam, Joel and Macy and we’ve all been really fortunate to make a career out of the sport. So when I got older, I became a pro and traveled as much as I could for contests, photo trips and sponsor promotions. From getting 10s at Backdoor, chaired to the podium in Bali and making people’s dreams come true in Japan— those are the greatest experiences of my life. In between those highs there are lows and that’s where you need to work to prepare yourself for the achievements ahead.

FS: What’s your role in the surf industry now?

You’re involved in a few different parts of the surfing industry, right?

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FS: You’re pretty diversified. Is that something that you think you have to do today to have a successful career?

JS: It’s totally up to your personality and drive. If you aren’t driven or educated then you are just running the risk with no reward.

FS: What would you say some of the perks to your job are?

JS: I really like being a mentor to a lot of the kids. It’s a really good feeling for me to give them some help. Also the open opportunity to meet people you wouldn’t otherwise meet…that’s awesome.

FS: What are some words of advice you’d give the next generation of surfers?

JS: Always try your best. Learn from your mistakes and the mistakes of others so you don’t have to go through the trouble. Don’t skip steps and don’t procrastinate.

FS: How important is a good work ethic in the sport and realizing that there’s a lot more to the game than just surfing well?

JS: A good work ethic is important. Not just in surfing but in life in general. I’ve seen great surfers never reach their potential out of the water; good people surpass great surfers in life. The good people become legends, the bad just fade away.

For more on Jason Shibata, check out behindthewaves.com

Heff

JS: Yeah, I work for Billabong and I’m the link between the athletes and coaches. I also help the marketing department with the events here in Hawai‘i. Rainos Hayes has been working closely with our team here and Keanu Asing, Kaimana Jaquias, Isaiah Moniz and the rest of the kids have been enjoying it. It’s all working out well, our product is better than ever and Sunset, Honolua and Pipeline are the best venues for our Hawai‘i events.

I’m part of the Vertra suncare crew as well.

Our athletes have been on fire! Mick, Shane, Taylor, Kekoa, Joel, Simpo, Hubb, Vandal, Alana.

We have such a strong family right now.

In 2009 I partnered up to create Ronin eyewear in Japan. All of our pieces are “Asian fit” and hand made, not molded. We just introduced our new eyewear for this season at Interstyle Japan and the response has been amazing. So if you have a hard time finding glasses that fit your face structure then check us out.

Inside section

Off The Map Rio de Janeiro

Flemister

By Beau Flemister

It’s no news that we have a lot of Brazilians on the North Shore. And it’s no news that their presence is at times controversial and viewed with prejudice.

Stereotypes founded or unfounded, behavior accurate or embellished, they have a bit of a bad rep. With the help of FREESURF I was sent on a topsecret mission to uncover, to immerse myself in the beating heart of their Motherland—to possibly decode the origins of the crazy chromosome, and hopefully return with some valuable cultural information. For a time, in journalist John Howard Griffin-esque fashion, I became Brazilian. The following, outlandish as it may seem, is a true account of a day in the life in Rio de Janeiro.

It’s the last day of Carnaval (a massive country-wide, week-long party around the time of Mardi Gras), it’s 95 degrees and I think that I’m actually sweating açai. I lick my arm…oh…so good, but could use a little

I somehow have started a cha-cha train 20 people deep and growing. We weave the human line through the traffic jam and into the intersection. granola. I’m tailing some friends who have led me to a dense and chaotic block party that is slowly snaking its way—following a live samba band on a parade float—through a neighborhood in Ipanema. It’s a bacchic scene of epic proportions. Everyone’s dancing, drinking, jumping, and outright raging sans inhibition. A guy on the float we’ve surrounded begins to spray down the crowd with a fire hose. It has now become a wet T-shirt contest.

The Brazilian men have just switched gears from, “Hi, what’s your name; let’s make-out,” to straightaway sticking their tongue down the nearest female’s throat. The block party has now converged at a busy traffic intersection where people begin to taunt the slowly passing cars with lewd

gestures and hip gyrations.

I somehow have started a cha-cha train 20 people deep and growing, and weave the human line through the traffic jam in the intersection. A small crowd ups the ante and raises me back and forth.

The crowd is then trumped by the bus surfers.

These are the kids that have jumped onto the tops of city buses stuck in the traffic jams and begun to dance on the roofs or jump from bus top to bus top. And that’s about the time when the cops arrive firing tear gas and clearance noise-bombs into the crowd in order to clear the intersection.

The riot police have finally arrived, warning shots are fired, and I’m parched anyways, so we head to the nearest juice shop. In common Rio fashion, I roll into the shop in just my sunga (Speedos), and order up my seventh acai of the day. Yup, a sunga. You just can’t get that Brazilian cut in the States, and besides, my ass is amazing. I finish and put on some shorts and a designated club jersey because we’re off to the biggest stadium in the world, Maracana, to see a pro soccer game. The scene inside is like a cross between Carnaval and a Roman gladiator tournament.

And then it happened. Our team lost. So I watch (still telling the truth) as grown men with tears of disappointment in their eyes and spittle of fury exploding from screaming mouths, turn Incredible Hulk and begin to rip out the plastic stadium seats and bang them in anger upon the seats in front of them. I know what you’re thinking, but, no, it’s not just a game.

To be continued.

For more on Beau’s adventures, go to freesurfmagazine.com

All sides of the island will fire throughout the month of April. From V-Land to Lighthouse, you’re gonna score // Malia Manuel will qualify for next year’s

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PHOTO: ERIK AEDER

PHOTO: DAHLIN

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Pearlridge Center Aloha Tower Marketplace Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani Royal Hawaiian Center

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Maui

Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea Paia

Quiksilver.com/eddie

Inside section

six

Addictions with

Takayuki

Wakita Three long years ago, Mathew Paul Miller, better known by his Hebrew name Matisyahu, debuted in Hawaii at Honolulu’s Waikiki Shell. By then, he had already forged a reputation for mixing hip-hop, reggae and a splash of Old World orthodoxy that thickened in a soup of uniqueness. When you rhyme with earlocks, people tend to take notice.

Fast-forward three years and the excitement over Matisyahu set Honolulu abuzz once again as a soldout line formed affront Honolulu’s Pipeline Café in late February. Backed by the Brooklyn-based dub/rock/fusion band Dub Trio, Hawaii fans were well aware that a night like this doesn’t come around often.

Constantly evolving his sound, the Matisyahu of 2010 has adopted more of a rock feel while still holding true to the grooving melodies of his reggae roots. Worthy of backing the frontliner’s vocals, the three musicians of Dub Trio also showcased a mastery of their instruments while

continuously adding a barrage of studio-type effects to the air. The result bore the fruit of a unique, satiated sound permeating throughout the venue.

Touring with Matisyahu for the last year, his chemistry with Dub Trio was almost tangible and by the end of the night, they delivered a thundering, crowdpleasing show, fresh with new versions of his classic hits along with the grooves from his third studio album, Lights.

The night reached a crescendo with a freestyle free-for-all between Matisyahu and two guests as they battled over a variety of random topics set forth by the crowd. As an encore, Matisyahu demonstrated another of his many skills as he beatboxed a sustained and blended beat for nearly five minutes.

Without a doubt, everyone at Pipeline Café that night left satisfied. After an evening of musical bliss, we can all only hope it’s not another three years before Matisyahu returns to Hawai‘i. But even if it is, it will be worth the wait. —Tyler Rock

Photo: Matisyahuworld.com

The Second Coming

We all have a few things we just can’t live without. For some of us, it’s something as special as a home-cooked meal, for others, it’s a full tank of gas, a fresh board, and a promising swell chart. For Japanese-born and North Shore staple Takayuki Wakita, Pipeline will do.

Here’s his addictions:

My kids Pipeline Helmet Music Friends Bali Joe’s Volvo

women’s World Tour event // Repeat after us: Matt Meola, Matt Meola, Matt Meola // You’ll ride a Channel Islands Dumpster Diver, and you’ll like it // That

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The whitest boards are made with Aerialite.速 Aerialite is a family of strong, lightweight fiberglass fabrics from BGF Industries. With its proprietary finish, it provides a smooth, brilliant white surface making Aerialite the glass of choice for master shapers and surfers alike. To learn more, or for your nearest distributor, visit Aerialite.com or email info@aerialite.com.

Slow Mo IS THE NEW HI FI

A big blue barrel rifles down the line toward the cameraman, a surfer punts a massive air then lays it on rail millimeters past the stringer and mere inches from the lens. Picture perfect and

Walk It Out

Highlighted with the phrase, “Friday Night Football Meets Project Runway,” Hurley’s Walk the Walk campaign has become a movement and vision to give teenagers an opportunity to express themselves amid the fast-paced and changing environment of the fashion industry. What began as a parking lot fashion show produced by local high schools has now become a widespread Internet challenge phenomenon that’s gone digital. Comprised of three, two-

accentuated by beautifully smooth slow motion cinematography. Welcome to the future. Time moves more slowly here. It’s true that surf videos have been using this technique for decades, but camera advancements have brought super slow motion back to the forefront and into the limelight with short films like Quiksilver’s Cypher Vision and Globe’s soon-to-be-released Test One. Slowing down the clock is nothing new. It’s

minute video challenges, each school has the opportunity to create a video that represents their schools identity or “DNA,” a commercial promoting Hurley’s Phantom and Low-rider board shorts, and a collaboration with a local retailer giving students the opportunity to create a Hurley window display. Each of the challenges are posted online where viewers vote for the winner.

Slated against teams from the Northwest and Canada, the Hawaiian contingency, frontlined by Pearl City High School, had their work cut out for them. Competing with eight

been used in countless flicks from the old Jack McCoy movies to the new company productions.

Timeless barrels have been forged into memories under the hand of slowed action, but the influx of Taylor Steele’s recipe for fast cuts and fast surfing set to fast music in the 1990s pumped the brakes on slow mo. But as the adage goes, everything comes back around. The old has become the new.

Furthering the revitalization of slow motion in today’s modern surf movie stands an army of new camera technology. Although the 1000-frame-per-second camera used in the filming of Quik’s Cypher Vision isn’t necessarily new—this type of equipment has become a staple among nature documentaries—it was the first time such a high-speed camera was used to shoot surfing. And why not? With the technical surfing going down today, to fully comprehend the detail, the viewer almost requires the film to be slowed down to get a legitimate grasp of what these surfers are actually pulling. From flying high to driving deep through the tube, slow motion captures the dramatic and technical down to the drop of water on the surfer’s face.

In the coming years, you’re going to see a plethora of high-speed camera work used in surfing to achieve that ultra smooth slow motion effect that reminds us that no matter where our dreams take us, the harsh reality is that we’ll never be able to surf as good as our heroes. But at least we can dream, even it is in slow motion. —Tyler Rock For Quik’s new film, Cypher Vision, go to freesurfmagazine.com

other schools for the first regional challenge, PCHS was able to pull off a win beating out West Vancouver with a little under 100 votes. If they can pull off the next two challenges, Pearl City High School will have the opportunity to participate in a division championship fashion show at the US Open of Surfing at Huntington Beach this summer.

Some of the most memorable moments for Walk the Walk Coordinator Jordan Dowty have been the “ripple effect” that the movement has caused. According to Dowty, she’s seen everything from self-taughtbikini-making teenagers who went onto become designers to once-failing students now nailing A’s due to participation incentives. Walk the Walk is not just about empowering the next generation, but also provides a future for the industry.

To check out the latest Walk the Walk challenge and vote for your favorite school be sure to hit up Hurley’s website at Hurley.com/wtw.

—Tara Binek

Can

Carissa Moore

win a world title in her rookie year?

Web Poll

Heff

Inside section

90% yes

10% no

slab that you’ve been staring at that no one ever surfs…just paddle out and give it a go, your cuts are gonna heal // Zeke is gonna start shaving his head again.

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The Future Looks Like

This We’d be lying if we told you that we didn’t see this coming.

Like a meteorologist predicting an oncoming storm, all of the barometers were pointing toward the red, indicating that a cat-five change was eminent. Women’s surfing was about to make a dramatic shift, one that was needed and one that was long overdue.

We’d been saturated by the bronzed beauties of the past, a flower in their ear and a ukulele in tow, gleefully side slipping at Queens. We’d had enough of Gidget and her fluffery. We longed for the iron stare of Coco Ho, the grit and determination of Bethany Hamilton, the oozing grace of Malia Manuel, the sheer talent of Carissa Moore, and the ginsulike precision of Alessa Quizon.

We were ready for change, and these girls presented it to us, not neatly wrapped in a bow, but like a freshly severed head of the old, casually left on our doorstep.

And for that, we thank them with this feature.

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Bethany Hamilton

Noah Hamilton

There’s a depth of character to Bethany Hamilton that goes beyond a shark attack and the ensuing media swarm that brought her international attention. Had the shark opted not to bite, you’d still know Bethany’s name and she’d continue to be one of the preeminent female tube riders of today, just as fearless as ever. But the shark did bite, the arm was severed and she was catapulted deep into the throngs of the mainstream.

Despite the daytime talk show appearances, the patented perfume bearing her name, and the new feature film currently in production, she’s remained as committed to her craft as ever. Although there are grueling days of filming on the set, longwinded interviews and relentless photo shoots, Bethany remains dedicated to competitive surfing and still plans on making a run for the World Tour in the not-too-distant-future.

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Heff

Coco Ho With the recent 2009 World Tour Rookie of the Year award behind her, Sunset Beach’s own Coco Ho is quickly becoming the latest heir to the Ho dynasty. Watching her hold her own and stand tall amid the world’s best time and again in an array of conditions, it’s no wonder she’s sweeping the women’s ’CT. With one of the thickest bloodlines in the sport—Coco is the daughter of Hawaiian surfing legend Michael Ho, sister of professional surfer Mason, and niece 34

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of former world champion and Pipe master Derek Ho—Coco is building on generations of time in the water. As displayed at the highly controversial drop-block-to-air at the Reef Hawaiian Pro, Coco’s proven herself a fierce competitor, not willing to back down to anyone.

Barely able to drive and she’s at the top of the Women’s World Tour, Coco Ho is at the forefront of a new age of women’s surfing, one dominated by Hawaiian women.

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Alessa Quizon Alessa Quizon doesn’t know what it feels like to come unglued before an important heat. The waves of nausea and brittle legs that accompany a make-it-or-break-it moment are a world away for her, a distant thought out of sight and out of mind. Plain and simple, Alessa Quizon is a steely eyed terminator. Add an infectious smile to her already studded arsenal, and you’re looking at a future contender. Testament to her ability to handle pressure in a heat, her endless smile and an array of seamless grace in the water, it’s not surprising to note that Alessa has garnered a host of accolades to her name. Most recently, she narrowly lost out to a junior world title in New Zealand, taking second place and a silver medal back to her home on the West Side of Oahu. With all of the earmarks of a future great, Alessa’s notoriety on the international scene is quickly gaining traction.

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When Malia Manuel was carried up the rust-toned beach in Huntington at the US Open in 2008 there were nearly a hundred thousand eyes squared solely on her elevated frame. And with that monumental win at one of surfing’s most illustrious events, the days Malia had spent playing a cameo role to the likes of Carissa Moore and Steph Gilmore vanished with every step that brought her closer to the winner’s podium. She had entered a new stage in her career as a professional surfer, one that anyone who’s ever seen her surf knew she was destined for. Three years later, and Malia is diligently chipping away at the Pro Junior circuit, undoubtedly inching herself closer to making her major label debut on the World Tour. Arguably the most competent female punter alive, Malia’s mastery of mixing rail work with the ability to get lofty is moving the reputation of female surfers into the stratosphere. It also doesn’t hurt that her poise on terra firma rivals her grace in the water.

Latronic

Heff

Malia Manuel

Latronic

It’s 2002 and we’re at an undisclosed location just outside of Town. A deeply tanned and effervescent girl is paddling out in the lineup. She smiles, chats, and begins to take charge, a mix of her charisma and talent liquefying the hearts and kidneys of the other surfers with every “Hi, my name is Carissa,” and the consequent frontside hack that follows. “She’s going to be a future women’s world champ,” we say. Eight years later, after countless amateur titles, professional wins, and mega sponsorship deals, and she’s well on her way to realizing that uttered prophesy.

We could go on about how well she surfs. But you know the drill.

You know how for years they had to put her in divisions with the boys, many of which she won, because her surfing was so advanced. You’re well aware that she’s graced the covers of Surfer and FREESURF. You’re up to speed on the fact that she now has Triple Crown trophies on her mantle. Hell, you’ve seen her out in the water with her dad, in interviews, in mags; you know that she’s the real thing. Beyond the competition and goal of a world title, she’s the epitome of genuine. She’s bubbly, positive. Her authenticity is absolutely infectious. A recent post on her website outlined a paper she wrote for school. In brief, it discussed her views on life and love, circling around the central theme of the novel The Alchemist, by Paulo Coelho. We were blown away by her honesty, by her unapologetic courage to share her fears as well as her dreams and questions about life. There’s no doubting that she’s a future world champion, and hopefully, as it reads in The Alchemist, “When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you achieve it.” n 38

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Latronic

Carissa Moore

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There’s something about a black and white image that evokes emotion.

There’s a gritty, raw, nostalgic feel that sometimes just can’t be expressed through color. And if there’s one thing that the North Shore does well, it creates emotion. Here’s our take on the black-and-white drama from this winter.

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Brandon Campbell

The North Shore, the kind of lines we don’t mind waiting in.

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Baeseman

Benji Weatherly and the view from the inside.

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Brandon Ells

Bruce Irons, all in where others fold.

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Baeseman

Torrey Meister, coloring outside the lines.

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Baeseman

Hank Gaskell, parting the sea.

Latronic

Kekoa Cazimero, shedding some light on a new perspective.

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Evan Valiere, taking the scenic route.

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t’s a Tuesday night at Turtle Bay and Eric Baeseman is about as far removed from his natural element as he could be. He’s wearing comfortable running shoes, a collared shirt, slacks, and is misted by a thin veil of his own sweat. He jogs through the parking lot. His heart, a heart that is used to pounding through his chest, is beating at a slightly faster pace than normal. His brown eyes dart from row to row, searching for the car that matches the number and the set of keys in his hand. The blue Chevy Malibu. There it is. He opens the door, puts the car in reverse, revs the six-cylinder engine and guns it back to the valet station. This is how Eric Baeseman, the name that you’ve undoubtedly read in small print in the photo credit section of countless magazines, spends most of his nights. He moonlights as a valet. It’s real work, work that he loves, and it’s also proof that the dream of being one of surfing’s most esteemed lensmen living on the North Shore means having to hustle.

Twelve hours later and we find ourselves staring at a second incarnation of Eric Baeseman. Where his running shoes once covered his size-12 feet, a pair of swim fins are now donned. He’s replaced his slacks for trunks and the car keys for a housing and Canon Mark II. This is his preferred modus operandi. Although he enjoys his bluecollar nights, his passion remains in the water, shooting Pipe and other treacherous peaks that eat people whole on a regular basis.

After a day spent capturing some of the most critical moments in surfing and a night spent hustling as a valet, Baeseman goes home to his wife and two children and smiles, completely content with his surroundings. Happy.

“Yeah, I definitely work a lot,” he says with a wry smile and chuckle. “I’ve been working nights at Turtle Bay for almost 15 years, and I spend my days shooting from the water…but I really love it all.

I’m really happy where I’m at right now. My family and my kids come first in my life, but I’m just really happy here, doing exactly what I’m doing now.”

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“ If I had to choose between shooting Kelly or Reef, I’d pick Reef. When it gets to be 10 to 15 feet and when most pros are scrambling, he holds his composure.”

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Baeseman

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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Raised along the Kona Coast on the Big Island, Baeseman was first introduced to photography from a friend. Not long thereafter, the man with iron lungs and the endurance of a distance swimmer began shooting the likes of a few of his friends, most notably Shane Dorian, Conan Hayes and a slew of other Big Island bigwigs. And it turned out that these friends, well, they surfed pretty damn good. And Baeseman, he was a bit of a natural with a lens. It wasn’t long before a few of his shots were run in the mainstream magazines. The words “Photo: Baeseman” began popping up in the vertical margins near the spine of surf publications the world over. Photo editors 56

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took note, and so did we. He had a knack for a fisheye and seemed to get as close to the action as anyone. Looking at the images, it was as if we were there in the photo with him, holding our composure and the lens for that extra fraction of a second, trying to get the shot that no one else could. Click.

Dive. Smile.

“I think the first few rounds of photos I had published were through Surfing [magazine]. I worked with Larry Moore, the photo editor at the time, and that was pretty amazing, that was about 15 years ago. He was a great guy. But I think the first shot I ever had run was of Shane on this right, it was a barrel shot. I think it ran as a quarter page,

but I was so stoked at the time. I really felt like a grom when I saw it, you know?”

From there, his quarter page photos became full pages; his full pages became spreads; his spreads became covers. With his knack for sitting deep amid the maelstrom at Pipe, tucking under waves that wanted to kill him, and dodging oncoming surfers like a matador weaving around a bull, Baeseman fell into his own. A niche was realized and a dream fulfilled.

Years later, a family followed, two kids, a boy and a girl. A wife. Responsibilities ensued. But between the tireless work of being a father coupled with a nocturnal bluecollar gig, Baeseman continued to shoot,

Heff Heff

Baeseman

Swimming as deep as Baeseman swims is a dangerous game and he knows it. People die doing what he does. He considers all of these things but refuses to let them faze him.

and shoot well. He’d grown into a love affair with Pipeline, swooning her with his lens, consistently sitting deeper than most and always turning up the goods. But make no mistake: relationships with Pipe always entail drama. She bites and cheats and will take you for everything you are worth. Swimming as deep as Baeseman swims is a dangerous game and he knows it.

People die doing what he does. He considers all of these things but refuses to let them faze him.

He’s aware of the cost of making a mistake, but as love tends to do to people, he just can’t help himself. He keeps coming back for more, keenly in tune with the hazards and the treasures that accompany dancing with the most dangerous girl in Hawai‘i.

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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Heff

Looking at the images, it was as if we were there in the photo with him, holding our composure and the lens for that extra fraction of a second, trying to get the shot that no one else could. Click. Dive. Smile.

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Baeseman

Dorian and Baeseman, Big Island brethren.

“Yeah, I think Pipe is one of the heaviest waves to shoot for sure. It’s just so sketchy.

Like with a wave like Teahupoo, a really heavy wave, most of the time you’ll just get cheese-grated on the shelf on the inside if things go bad. But with a wave like Pipe, you can hit your head really hard. Pipe’s just so full of holes and little channels…it’s just so dangerous.”

When asked about the close calls that Pipeline has dealt him, Baeseman’s eyes tell the story well before his mouth does. Like a weary combat veteran, one that has seen more action and trauma than most, at first, he has trouble boiling down his hairiest moment.

But then, like a nightmare or bad dream taking shape, he recounts one particularly nauseating experience.

“Yeah, I’ve had a couple of really heavy experiences…I remember one time, this guy lost his board, and it was a really heavy day, like really solid Pipe. Anyway, he lost his board so I gave him one of my fins. Which was probably the worst thing I could have done. It was just so solid. So I got stuck at 60

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Gums and I couldn’t get out or in. I was just getting drilled the whole time. It seemed like it would never stop. We wound up getting picked up by a lifeguard at Rockies. It was a really heavy experience…I was starting to sweat underwater, which is one of the first signs of drowning. When we finally made it to shore, the surfer that I gave my fin to was blowing chunks on the beach.”

Photographers and surfers have a uniquely symbiotic relationship. Simply put, some just work well together. When Pipe connoisseur Reef McIntosh paddles out, Baeseman takes notice. Both are known to push the envelope for the sake of getting the shot, and both have reaped the rewards of finding that perfect moment. With more than a decade in the impact zone, Baeseman knows what to look for. And according to him, it looks a lot like Reef.

“If I had to choose between shooting Kelly or Reef, I’d pick Reef for sure. His wave knowledge at Pipe is really good. I’ve seen him in some really heavy situations. When it gets to be 10 to 15 feet when most pros are

paddling for the horizon, kind of scrambling, he just holds his composure. He’s a really cool guy and I think his wave knowledge really helps my photography.”

As a true professional, Baeseman has never been satisfied with the status quo.

Although he relishes a cover shot or a spread as much as anyone, he quickly puts the glory behind him and focuses next on what could have been improved. What could have been done better.

“I feel like I’m always learning. Even though I mostly shoot with a fisheye, I feel like there’s always something that could have been done different. If I get a good photo, I’m stoked on it, but then I try and put it behind me and see how I can keep getting better.”

In the coming years, Baeseman doesn’t see himself slowing down in the slightest.

If anything, he’s expecting to push his photography even more, sit even deeper, get even closer.

“In five years,” he says with an air of stoicism, “I’ll be looking ahead to the next 10.”

So are we. n

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FICTION

The Company Ryan Black had been surfing alone a lot lately. The waves hadn’t been good but he’d been driving down to the beach anyway and pulling on his suit and paddling out. He hadn’t been on the dawn patrol much, but the mid-morning crowds hadn’t been bad and the winds had been light for a few weeks and the sun felt good on his face. The sessions had also given him time to think.

Mostly he thought about the fact that he was 28 and still a valet.

Sometimes he thought about his bank statement—his car and college loans. Other times he wondered when the waves would stop being so junk, and while these weren’t exactly the most positive moments of meditation they were at least moments of meditation, he thought, as he looked over at Tim Ogilvy, who was tan—so dark the beds of his fingernails seemed to glow a luminescent white—and who sat in the passenger seat beside him, talking, of course.

Black wasn’t sure about what, exactly; he only listened to about 38 percent of what Ogilvy said. All he knew, for certain, at the moment, was that his friend had just gotten back from Mainland Mex. And that Ogilvy had knocked on his window at 5 am, in the dark, chattering, and hadn’t stopped until they were outside, together, warming the engine on Black’s truck.

It was the last piece of silence that morning.

Black tuned in to some of the noise now.

“Yeah,” Ogilvy said.

He wasn’t talking about the waves in Mexico, thank god.

“The enchiladas suizas? Disgusting. And dude.” Ogilvy sat up, as if he’d just remembered something. “You’ll never guess what happened this morning when I sat down.”

Black took the bait.

“What do you mean when you sat down?” he asked.

“What do you mean what do I mean?”

“I mean the only sitting you’ve done today is while I’ve chauffeured you around—Christ it’s early. You get waves in Mexico or what?

“Of course I did,” Ogilvy said impatiently.

He got waves everywhere. It was obnoxious.

“But listen,” he said. “So when I sat down, before I came over, you know, I figured I’d have more of the same—the Mexi food has been going through me. But then I worked something out.”

“Oh yeah?” Black said.

“Yeah,” Ogilvy replied. “Something solid.”

He raised his chin in mock nobility.

“My body likes being back home,” he said, “I guess. But anyway, I go to...ya know...right, and there’s nothing.”

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Illustration by Noa Emberson / Joystain.com

Ogilvy chopped the air with his hand for emphasis.

Black watched him from the corner of his vision, his eyes focused on the yellow lines that ran toward his truck on the blacktop. He tapped the break as they came over a rise in the road, and both craned their neck to get a look over the dunes but the only visible piece of ocean was out near the horizon.

“Now,” Ogilvy continued. “I’ve had that sort of thing before, you know? Non-wipers. But this was different.”

“Oh yeah?”

“Yeah. Listen. When I looked in the toilet—the thing was gone. I mean, it just vanished.”

“Oh yeah,” Black said. He smiled in spite of himself.

“Yeah. Like Keyser Söze.” Ogilvy blew on the tips of his fingers and opened his hand in one fluid motion. “Like that,” he whispered. “It was gone.”

Black laughed. “So what, dude?”

“What do you mean, so what?”

Black shrugged.

“It’s remarkable,” Ogilvy said. “That’s so what. And you know what?”

“What?”

“They even have a name for that.”

“Oh yeah?”

“Yeah. This guy I met in Mex—” None of this had actually happened, Black realized. Not to Ogilvy. It was something he’d heard, someone else’s story that he’d adopted. But Black didn’t care. He couldn’t stop smiling now.

“He called that a ‘Company drop.’ You know, a ‘CIA drop.’”

“Oh yeah?”

“Yeah. It was there—everyone knows it was there—but it comes and it goes and it operates without a trace.”

“Nice,” Black said.

Black parked in the west end of lot, which was still empty, and for the first time since Ogilvy had left for Mexico he worked the brake and the pedals and the gears without thinking about his shift at the restaurant parking cars, his finances, the fact that his knees had begun to crack every morning when he rolled out of bed. The car seemed to drive itself as he laughed.

“Holy crap, dude,” Black said as he caught his breath. He watched the offshore breeze blow through grass along the tops of the dunes.

“Exactly,” Ogilvy said.

They paddled out without checking it. The waves were smaller than usual, gutless. Ogilvy talked the entire time and caught the only sets that came in. It was the best session Black had had in weeks. —Alex Wilson

Photo Charlayne Holliday

news & events

Legends, honored.

The State of Legends Testament to the esteem that Hawai‘i holds its surfing legends, the state legislature took a break from dealing with a number of pressing matters including a recession, a monumental light-rail project, and civil union to pay homage to nine Hawaiian surfers that have helped forge the collective identity of the state of Hawai‘i. In the islands, surfing is taken seriously.

Among those honored included the likes of Duke Kahanamoku, Eddie Aikau and Rell Sunn, who were all recognized posthumously. The six other honorees included Clyde Aikau, Ben Aipa, Mitchell Alapa, Derek Ho, and Buffalo Kaloloe-okalani Keaulana.

The move to honor the surfers was spearheaded by Rep. Roland D. Sagum of the state house and Sen. Brickwood Galuteria of the state senate.

Adorned in a mountain of lei, the honored surfers greeted local politicians and relished the moment at the legislative building that skirts downtown Honolulu.

In an interview with the Star-Bulletin, legendary Hawaiian surfer, shaper, and now surf coach, Ben Aipa, was quoted as saying, “This event honored surfers that pioneered some things during an era that was not as easy to do as now...to be a part of the selection, I feel really honored.”

According to Representative Sagum, the move to pay homage to the surfers was also intended to educate the public about the rich history Hawai‘i has played in the sport that was spawned along its very shores.

“We are pleased to have this opportunity to recognize some of our local Polynesians who have been tremendously successful in the sport of surfing, or papa he‘e nalu. It is also important for us to help educate the public about the historical and cultural significance of this sport which was once reserved for the Ali‘i.”

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Senator Galuteria echoed Rep. Sagum’s sentiment.

“Our honorees are all local Polynesians who have contributed greatly to the popularity of surfing,” he said. “It is only fitting that we honor current surfing greats, as well as those who are no longer with us, who have paved the way for this sport worldwide.”

The move to pay homage to the surfers was also intended to educate the public about the rich history Hawai‘i has played in the sport that was spawned along its very shores.

The role that surfing has played in shaping not only the history of Hawai‘i as an American state, but much rather the history of Hawaiian people in the centuries that predated the touch of Western civilization, cannot be ignored. Surfing is an integral part of the fabric of Hawaiian society, and for the government to honor this is a milestone in the sport, not for Hawai‘i-based surfers alone, but for all surfers. —Jeff Mull

Heff

news & events

The Wave of the Year?

North shore

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Ring. Ring. Ring. The phone shrieks to you at 5:40 am. Calls this early are never good. Your mind immediately goes to the worst-case scenario.

You’re about to be short a family member, you think to yourself. But no, everyone’s okay. Dandy. But there’s a tsunami coming the voice on the phone tells you. Get to high ground. Stock up on gas. Fill the tub with water. Tell them you love them.

Twenty minutes later, the sirens sound and civil defense teams’ speakers crackle evacuation warnings throughout neighborhoods and across the state. A tsunami. A frickin tsunami. A few rubs of your eyes later and a quick visit to CNN and the story in all of its surly detail is coming to life. An 8.8 earthquake just demolished some part of Chile you’ve never heard of. Every news channel is covering the story full boar, awaiting the wall of water to take apart your city, your home on the water, in one sweeping wave. It all feels strange. No panic. Just a sense of urgency. You’ve got nearly five hours to square away all of your life, make sure you paid the insurance bills, have fresh clothes, take care of the dog, and get to high ground.

It’s still dark in Hawaii at 6:15 in the morning. And through the feint yellow glow from the street lights shining down on the city blocks, the city looks different. People are out in droves, they’re on their phones, packing up their cars, tying up loose ends and they’re all hoping for the best but considering the worst. The line at the gas station is horrendous and stretches down the block—an armada of cars attempting to fuel up before the liquid end to Honolulu. In a few hours, many of the gas stations will run dry and close shop. You imagine a lawless city, some cross between Mad Max and Water World and laugh at the ridiculous thought. Not your city. Never.

Five hours later and you’re standing on a bluff. The phone lines have been sketchy all day, overrun by a deluge of panicked people calling family abroad, but you manage to get through to your parents on the mainland. You’re fine, you tell them. The tsunami is supposed to hit any second and so far, you see nothing. It’s a first-person play-by-play cellular dictation of what could be a catastrophe. And they want details.

But there’s nothing. Really, you swear. Barely a change in tide, maybe. But it could be nothing from where you sit. Nothing at all, you tell them.

An hour of standing in the sun later, squinting your eyes to the horizon, trying to make something out of the ordinary and it’s clear that this tsunami was a dud. You’re thankful everything is intact, but also a little let down. It’s a good thing, a great thing to be spared an OId Testament-type death, but after five hours of foraging for supplies, standing in the grocery story line for an hour only to find out they’ve run out of water and then to spend the afternoon preparing to watch all hell come ashore, well, too see nothing, you can’t help but be a bit underwhelmed.

You need a nap. And then a surf. —Jeff Mull

Free plugs

Esteemed South African surfer Shaun Tomson has entered the digital age and created an app, called “Surfboards,” to help you find the best board possible. Without further adieu, here’s what Shaun had to say about the program.

“When I am out in the line up I often see people struggling on unsuitable equipment, boards that might be great for an expert surfer but are woefully inadequate for a beginning or intermediate surfer.

This little application is designed to do just that—help understand and select which board and equipment will be the most suitable right now to maximize the fun factor and make learning and improving as painless as possible.”

Our favorite Maui-based band, The Throwdowns, are going national.

Kick the tires and light the fires, cause we’re gonna be raging and celebrating with a massive party at Pipeline on April 30. You guessed it, they’re gonna be playing a show, too. And the best news yet, you’re invited. For more info, check out Facebook.com/thethrowdownsmaui.

Somehow, it’s almost summer. Argh, we know. In no time, the northerlies will subside and Town will light up. And yeah, we’re kinda frothed to surf Bowls when it gets good. And damn, those town folk, they’re a trendy lot. To blend in this summer, we’re pretty excited about these new shades from Dragon, the Jams.

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9 67 1 2

Stephanie Gilmore and the Art of Winning DELIVERING FOR BREAKERS·PIZZA BOB’S·BANZAI SUSHI

“ I always try and go into these events feeling excited like a rookie but confident like a pro, so I think I had a nice balance this time around.”

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Stephanie Gilmore: I always try and go into these events feeling excited like a rookie but confident like a pro, so I think I had a nice balance this time around. Although I was definitely surprised that I did so well because I knew my surfing wasn’t entirely up to scratch or at the level that I thought I would need to win at the start.

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Stephanie Gilmore is quickly becoming one of the most dominant figures ever in women’s surfing. At only 22, she’s had more wins than we can count and is three world titles deep into her three-year campaign on the World Tour. She’s garnered profiles and glossy spreads and recently took the cover of Foam Magazine. And if that wasn’t enough, she laid waste to her male and female counterparts when she took home the Laureus Award for the action sportsperson of the year at a gala function in Abu Dhabi. When she returned, we caught up with Steph to get her take on starting her year off right with a win at Snapper.

FS

FS: Were you a little surprised to see Carissa Moore fall by the wayside in the first event or is that just part of being a rookie?

SG: I guess I was a little surprised but similar things happened in the men’s tour where everyone was writing off the more seasoned surfers and then the rookies lost out really early, but yeah I just think that it was simply, bad waves and choice of unfamiliar equipment for those Gillmore continued on Page 72

Free plugs

Sadly, the surf world lost one of its own recently when legendary waterman and shaper Steve Adler passed away in California from an aneurism of the aorta vessel. A paddle out is planned in Long Beach.

Our thoughts are with his friends and family.

The good folks over at Nixon are dropping another fine-looking watch on the fashion-forward. The Chronicle, reminiscent of days past with a rugged band and a timeless face, compliments wrists the world over.

Go get you some. It’s that time.

We hate to break it to you, man, but those massive, thick-tongued skate shoes that you’ve been wearing, well, those things need to go.

This year, it’s all about thin and retro when it comes to your kicks.

We’re pretty psyched on the Rata Vulc from Vans. Good for chilling on a friend’s boat or cruising through town.

Gillmore continued

conditions...she’s learning quickly so Hey USA, it’s all going to be OK, She’s still great. I’m sure your little female surfing phenomena will shake it off easily!

FS: What’s your take on the ASP holding a men’s event and a women’s event in conjunction at the same time? Do you think the women are relegated to the days that aren’t always good enough for the men?

SG: I like that our tours do meet up at certain points in the year but then we have our own events as well, because I think it’s important to have them both...I believe we are getting more media and general interest at the combined events because they’re already there to see the fantastic men, and yes, we may get the scraps at most events held in conjunction with the guys but it’s either us or them and I’m pretty sure we’ve had some luck on our side the last few years when the boys got too fussy, we actually scored the better of the conditions so I’m OK with a little sacrifice here and there, as it might be worth it in the long run.

FS: Heading into Bells, who do you see as a major contender there for a win?

SG: Silvana for sure, Sofia always does well and maybe Lee-Ann but I think Silvana the most.

spaghettini

6/9/06

3:28 PM

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Open Daily from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm In the heart of Haleiwa

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Pau Hana

O

n an early spring morning, Senator Fred Hemmings, the current senate minority leader in Hawai‘i, sits behind his desk in his corner office overlooking ‘Iolani Palace. Neatly stacked before him are a slew of legislative papers and a recent draft of a nuclear power proposal.

Illuminated by a stream of natural light and decorated with an eclectic mix of surf memorabilia and political tchotchke, his corner office emits the feel of a

half-breed surf shrine and political den.

It’s a picture-perfect reflection of the senator’s past.

In the 1960s, Fred Hemmings was about as removed from organized politics as one could be. He had been a premiere watermen of his generation, pioneering new frontiers and earning a reputation for his prowess in an array of conditions.

By 1968, he had won the World Surfing Championships in Puerto Rico and by the 1970s he’d become one of the architects for what would become the world’s first organized professional surfing circuit.

But throughout that time, Hemmings increasingly found himself at odds with the budding counterculture movement, condoning drug use and general debauchery, and in a sense, ostracizing himself from some of his counterparts. Credit it to a streak of individuality or a desire to be the difference he wanted

“When surfing went the whole counter-culture route, I went a different direction. When everyone was talking and dressing a certain way, I didn’t buy into that.” to see, but by the late 1970s, Hemmings had been toying with the idea of entering the political arena under the Republican Party. In 1984, he was elected to the House of Representatives. By 2000, he’d become the Senate Minority Leader.

“I’d say I got the idea to get into politics some time in the late 1970s. I had done contests and was then working on organizing events when I thought

my next move would be toward doing something political, so I ran for office,” says Hemmings.

“I was never really into following what everybody else does. When surfing went the whole counterculture route, I went a different direction. When everyone was talking and dressing a certain way, I didn’t buy into that.”

In a time when rebelling was considered the norm, Hemmings stood alone, making himself the true renegade.

“Yeah, I guess I am a bit of a rebel in the true sense of the word.

I’ve always been like that though,” reflects Hemmings. “I like to march to the beat of my own drum.”

Although the confines of government work don’t lend him as much time to paddle out as he’d like, Hemmings still finds the time to get wet and refresh his system. Once he’s done at the office, of course.

The Many Lives of

Fred Hemmings Mull

By Jeff Mull

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Baeseman

Bruce Irons in black and white.

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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