Fsmv7 9

BREAK THE RULES The ASP Takes A Scalpel to the World Tour Free in Hawai‘i

September V7#9 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

Tahitian Cuts Ezekiel lau Just how good is he?* *He’s that good. Turn to page 46 to see why

Dane Reynolds Photo: Childs/A-Frame

EVAN GEISELMAN/PHOTO JIMMICANE

a n a l o g c l o t h i n g . c om

lucylove.com

Free Parking

The Backdoor of the Big Island is notably harder to find than that of O‘ahu.

Breaking over jagged lava in severely shallow water, this wave is like most things on the Big Island, raw and alluring. Here's Torrey Meister, deeply rooted.

Your Big adventure begins on pg.54

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Baeseman

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Contents V7#9 September 2010

34 Aperture Dispatch from

California: A showcase of surfing in the heart of the industry from the chilly points of Northern California to the ramps of San Diego.

46 The Unmistakable Ezekiel Lau Zeke Lau is not

For an entire week the surfing world turned its focus on a timeless little stretch of beach in Southern California. Touted as surfing's first and only stadium, Huntington Beach has been an entegral part of surfing since the beginning. Turn to pg. 62 to see why this little wave is such a big deal.

your average teenage surfing prodigy.

Intentionally bald, as driven as they come, and gifted with an absurd amount of grace in the water, we profile a surfer that will surely lead Hawai‘i in the coming decade.

54 The REAL HAWAII As varied

Mike Lallande

of an island as they come, everything about the Big Island of Hawai‘i has a tale to tell. In this photo essay, leading lensmen and budding author, Kirk Lee Aeder, goes beyond the lava fields and snowglazed mountains to bring you an insider’s perspective.

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NATHANIEL CURRAN & N-1 BOARDIES

ALPINESTARS.COM/ BOARDSHORTS

Heff

Contents V7#9 September 2010

12 Free Parking Torrey Meister surrounds himself in azure on the Big Island.

22 Masthead Two editors, an art director, a publisher, and an army of contributers unite to make this issue.

Get to know us by name.

24 Ed Note Change remains a constant as Jeff Mull... err...mulls over the topics in this month's issue.

26 H owzit In Cali they say "whatsup bro?" We say "Howzit?" We bridge the verbal gap with this month's photo montage.

28 Inside Section Jun Jo shows us his new place of Residence; Rasta and Billabong want to hook you up with free clothes; Taylor Steele makes a new film and we critique it; Morgan Maassen takes us behind the lens; and why you need to help put an end to shark finning.

62 N ews and Events Hurley's US Open takes center stage in Huntington Beach, China Uemura gives back in the downturn, and Carissa Moore tells us what she knows.

68 P au Hana Is Mark Cunningham the most content man on the North Shore? Yes, well, sort of.

T&C Surf Designs Locations:

Ala Moana Center Pearlridge Center Kahala Mall Ward Warehouse Windward Mall International Marketplace

74 FreePlugs The most crowded wave in the world, a dog that teaches how to read, and the paddling phenom that is Jamie Mitchell.

A N A R C H Y E Y E W E A R . C O M

A product of Manulele, Inc. Volume 7 • Number 9 Publisher Mike Latronic

Editorial Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter

Free Thinkers Kirk Lee Aeder, Beau Flemister, Katherin Hsia, Tyler Rock, Evan Valiere

Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Bernie Baker, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Rima Rackauskas, Tyler Rock

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Brandon Ells, Paul Fischer, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Ryan Gamma, Noah Hamilton, Chris Hagan, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Christian Peralta, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson

Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson

Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURFon the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

Editor’s note

Change is a funny thing. Often times disguised amid the mundane, a figurative diamond buried in the rough, change can engulf us, weave itself into our every fiber and alter everything we know to be true. We had a standard that at one moment was certain and the next rendered completely irrelevant. As a magazine, it’s our job to stand vigil over change. We try to keep our eyes and ears sharp for the subtle whispers of evolution, bottle it up once a month, and send it out to you to digest. This is our job. And this month, we’re gladly reporting that change abounds in surfing.

For starters, you’ve probably heard of Ezekiel Lau by now. You know the kid—tall, shaved head, surfs like a bat out of hell—yeah, him. He’s the new face of Hawaiian surfing and is completely unlike most of his peers.

Where the standard has been brash and cocky, Zeke has made himself humble and sincere. When home school became the norm, Zeke opted for a traditional education at Kamehameha. Where others won national titles on sturdy frames, Zeke did it all on a broken back (for more on that, turn to page 46). “Out with the old standards, in with the Zeke,” we proclaim.

And we’re not stopping with Zeke. There’s another undercurrent in surfing that’s taking hold. Head down to Kewalos or Rocky Point or V-land and you’ll find that every teenager with a sticker (or 10) on his board can huck a frontside whip at the drop of a hat. And at a level so progressed, there’s one thing that separates the lot—style. As we all want to be better surfers, we hit up Evan Valiere, one of the most stylish surfers in all conditions big and small—to give us some tips. Check out his six steps to a

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Heff

Keep the Change smoother style on page 33 and watch the grace unfold beneath your feet.

For this issue, we’ve also commissioned Kirk Lee Aeder from the Big Island to pen and shoot The Real Hawai‘i feature on page 54. Aeder, who’s called the Big Island home for years, has seen the island’s surf scene transform itself from sleepy locales to an arena that churns out some of the

Head down to Kewalos or Rocky Point or V-land and you’ll find that every teenager with a sticker (or 10) on his board can huck a frontside whip at the drop of a hat. And at a level so progressed, there’s one thing that separates the lot—style. most talented surfers in the world year in and year out.

And not that we could have missed it if we tried, but how about the US Open? Hot damn that’s a big event with big money on the line. Never mind the surf was less than stellar, but that’s a paycheck and a webcast that we can vouch for. Keep throwing a $100,000 to the winner, and with any luck, events like this will become the norm and usher surfing into a level on par with other sports.

Change is in the air. Can you feel it? We do. Enjoy the issue. —Jeff Mull

KIVA

KIRIC

Photo: D. Faellas

Maui

Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

Latronic Latronic

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1. This is literally the face of modern surfing.

2. Yeah, we’re big in Cali.

3. Bringing a taste of Hawai‘i to your core surf shop.

4. The Huntington gauntlet.

5. Keañu Asing partakes in the Latin heritage of SoCal. 6. You can take the boys out of Hawai‘i, but you can’t take Hawai‘i out of the boys.

7. Our August issue gets some love.

8. Ghost ride the whip.

9. Freesurf keeps you covered.

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Derek Bahn

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off the map

Kimball / Aframe

San Francisco

It’s not easy to be a surfer in San Francisco. It’s easy to be a hipster, a cab driver, an artist, or a musician, but a surfer… not so much. And it’s not for lack of waves either—the place is ripe with peaks and lineups—but what makes San Francisco such a committed locale is the godforsaken weather.

Year round, the water stays frigid. Like, make-youwant-to-sit-in-your-car-and-wildly-weep-into-yourfrozen-maws-after-your-session cold. Ever surf in 46-degree water? Didn’t think so. Yet still, there exists a diehard lot of our coldwater kinsmen willing to shiver in their neoprene, their only solace a warm espresso and steaming barista in boots. They may not be in the limelight, but they’re there. Shivering in solitude for their lonely wave.

Whether it’s Ocean Beach, Fort Point, or an arsenal of other setups with names I dare not mutter, the waves in San Fran will always challenge the spirit and the shoulders of surfers.

Known for its relentless rips and mind-numbing closeouts, it takes a special breed of us to call this special city home. The city by the bay. The city for the truly committed.

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w w w.localmotionhawaii.com

OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace

inside section

Spotlight: Dylan Goodale

Billabong Giveaway Latronic

It's been one hell of a summer for Dylan Goodale.

Between living with Kolohe and winning events, Dylan found a few minutes to fill out our Q/A. The results were funny, but we sort of have our feelings hurt. I guess we're canceling that allexpenses-paid trip to G-Land, buddy.

1. T he reason I travel is: I have an airplane fetish.

2. The best thing about being short is: I get handicapped parking for being a legal midget.

3. San Clemente is: girls/summer and Hawaii is: home.

4. If I pulled Andy in a heat, it would most likely end with me: magically transforming from a weak little kid to Dane Reynolds.

5. The worst session of my life was at: too many.

6. The best session of my life was: I say that every other day if i do something cool.

7. Dear Airlines, thank you so much for: being so helpful and considerate and never charging me anything at all for boards and never hassling me at all...

8. The most off the map place I've ever been was: Tofino, Canada.

9. Best person to travel with: My phone.

10. Last person I'd want to go on a trip with: You.

If you’re into Rasta’s style both in and out of the water, count your lucky stars as we’re giving away Billabong’s new Rasta Collection to the reader who can tell us what organization Rasta has worked closely with to help save the whales. Email your answers to mull.jeff@gmail.com.

Stuff We Like

Arcade Fire, the Suburbs As the follow up album to Neon Bible, Arcade Fire’s latest record, Suburbs, carries with it a similar tempo to what we’ve seen from the Montreal-based band in the past. The tones from the band don’t echo the electro fusion sound that’s become such a requirement from so many other indie bands of today, which is a good thing in our eyes. However, Suburbs didn’t blow us away the same way Neon Bible and Funeral did. Nevertheless, the record is definitely worth a download for your next long drive.

HD Flip Camera

T&C’s M-1

Whether you're shooting your friends skating or you’re a journalist, the HD Flip camera has proven its worth around the FREESURF office.

Not much bigger than the palm of your hand, the Flip is extremely easy to use and captures a sharp picture that you wouldn’t expect from such a pint-sized device. If you're in the market for a video camera that’s portable and capable of HD at a very fair price tag, we’ll vouch for the Flip.

If you’re like me and you don’t have a six- to eight-board quiver at your disposal, you know just how important it can be to get that magic board that works in an array of conditions under your feet. You need an old faithful that’ll keep you good and shacked and on the rail whether it be 6-feet or 2. Lucky for us, our friends over at T&C developed such a board specifically for this kind of surfer.

The M-1 board is as versital as they come and after riding it throughout the waning months of summer, I’ve been psyched on it in any type of surf.

It goes a bit wider and thicker than your standard board, so make sure you talk to someone at the T&C factory to get the right dimensions. This board should be a staple in your quiver… or your whole quiver in one board.

You should fix your own dings but have a buckle repaired professionally // Riding an alaia will not make you a better

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shoots

“This bodysurfing photo represents the speed, obscurity, and beauty that I’ve come to cherish so much about the sport and the ocean. It was taken in Santa Barbara, California on a hot fall evening, when we were lucky to still be wearing just swim trunks into the darkness.” —Morgan Maassen

p h o t o:

Morgan MAassen

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f2.8 1/15 iso 200

Santa Barbara’s Morgan Maassen came to photography just a few short years ago and in that sliver of time, the 19-year-old has managed to brand himself as one of the sport’s most promising young lensmen. With an eye for the obscure, Maassen has helped widen our perspective with his unique take on the everyday moments in the lineup. In the process, Maassen recently took top honors at the Follow the Light Foundation, an annual contest that showcases the sport’s most promising young photographers.

surfer, but it will give you a new found appreciation of your 6’2” // A shoestring is a reliable fix to a missing leash string

ELEMENT Designed for high-performance surfing in small to medium size waves, this design features a deep single concave though the bottom with progressive tail rocker and a slightly relaxed nose rocker. Super fast and responsive, this board performs fullrotational top turns and fin-free snaps effortlessly. Keep your surfing up to date and on the edge with the Element.

All-Around Performance Proven Designs for Everyday Surfing by

Eric Arakawa

PILOT This versatile design performs in a wide variety of wave conditions, making it a great all-around, high-performance surfboard. A moderately low rocker combined with deep single to double concaves provides exceptional drive and responsiveness, creating and maintaining speed through turns and flat spots. The preferred “everyday” board of Kekoa Cazimero, from chest high Bowls to overhead Rocky Point.

The Pilot delivers the speed and flow to carve long arcs on the rail, with the looseness and snap to take your surfing into the lip and beyond.

ROUND PIN This design is a solid and proven performer in the typical hollow reef break surf found throughout Hawaii. Its adaptability to go from small to medium to large surf, makes it a favorite of Joel Centeio; whether it’s head-high Off The Wall, or winning the Reef Hawaiian Pro in macking Haleiwa. The classic Round Pin tail design holds it’s line on fast and steep waves, transitions smoothly from rail to rail, yet has enough width in the tail to keep it loose for high performance moves.

Joel Centeio

REEF HAWAIIAN PRO CHAMPION Photo: McGinnis

With over 20 different Eric Ararkawa models to choose from HIC’s got the right board to take your surfing to the next level.

Ala Moana Center

Street Level, Mauka

808-973-6780

www.hicsurf.com

Photos: Shawn J. Heinrichs

inside section

Banning Single fins

Expires Oct 31, 2010

Expires Oct 31, 2010

Beginning this summer, Hawaii now holds the distinction of being the first state in the country to have imposed a complete ban on shark finning. Although finning was banned in Hawaii in the past, as of July 1, it will be illegal to possess, sell, or distribute shark fins in the state, making the new law the most comprehensive ban against shark finning in the States.

With millions of sharks killed for their fins annually, the ensuing effect of having one of nature’s top apex predators eliminated from the food chain could prove disastrous. The fins, which are primarily used to make shark fin soup, a delicacy in many parts of Asia, have been in high demand with the growing middle class economy in China. Some reports put the number of sharks killed for their fins as high as 100 million, and experts believe that the balance of the marine eco system will inevitably suffer consequences. As the ocean’s apex predator, sharks have helped control the natural balance of the world’s oceans dating as far back as the Jurassic Period.

According to a study recently released by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, roughly a third of all sharks worldwide are in danger of extinction. The threatened species include hammerheads, great whites, and mako sharks.

As far as “finning” is concerned, the practice has proven to be a cruel yet lucrative endeavor. Reportedly, the going rate for a fin in Asia is $700/kilogram. In most cases, the sharks are caught on long lines, pulled to the boat, have their fins hacked from their body, and are then dumped overboard to perish in the sea.

“Now that this law is passed, hopefully it will set a standard for the rest of the world to follow,” said Mike Coots, shark attack survivor and proponent of the law.

// If you can, we advise growing a beard // Read a book

kicker_freesurf_joel.indd 1

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The Breath of Life It begins with a wheez and ends with a smile. This is how surfing finds children and young people with cystic fibrosis in Southern California on a gray summer’s afternoon. If you’re questioning the link between surfing and cystic fibrosis, the answer’s in the salt.

According to the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, people with the disease produce a thick mucus that can be trapped in the lungs and cause infections as well as obstruct the body from producing certain enzymes that break down food. There are an estimated 30,000 children in the United States suffering from the disease. But there’s good news—surfing has been proven to help mitigate the symptoms.

According to a report in the New England Journal of Medicine in 2006, an Australian team of doctors found that surfing may hold the key where other medicines have failed. Studies indicate that when the saline mixture (salt water) is inhaled, the effects of the disease can be dramatically lessoned. “Surfers with cystic fibrosis had fewer lung exacerbations,” said Dr. Scott Donaldson of UNC Chapel Hill in an interview with CNN. On an overcast afternoon in Laguna, we find our intrepid cast of Hawaiian surfers in partnership with the Mauli Ola Foundation (a nonprofit organization dedicated to help people with cystic fibrosis) introducing people with the disease to surfing and a healthier life. According to the Mauli Ola foundation’s mission statement, “One of the Foundation’s

programs is Surf Experience Days, which pairs professional surf instructors and novice surf students who have cystic fibrosis to introduce them to the healing properties of exercise, ocean air, achievement, and fun in a supportive environment.”

The surfers on hand at Laguna to help out with the Mauli Ola foundation included the likes of Kala Alexander, Makua Rothman, BJ Penn and others.

According to a report in the New England Journal of Medicine in 2006, an Australian team of doctors found that surfing may hold the key where other medicines have failed. Studies indicate that when the saline mixture (salt water) is inhaled, the effects of the disease can be dramatically lessoned. “Surfers with cystic fibrosis had fewer lung exacerbations,” said Dr. Scott Donaldson of UNC Chapel Hill in an interview with CNN.

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“It’s great to get out here and help introduce surfing to people with cystic fibrosis,” said Makua Rothman. “I had really bad asthma as a kid, and through the ocean, I’ve been able to do a lot more than a lot of people thought I could. It feels really good to be helping out here today.”

Latronic

Latronic

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Noa Emberson

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Home is Where the Shop Is

Jun Jo and Jason Kashiwai Rethink the Modern Surf Shop with Residence There was a time before you needed the newest Tidemaster-clairvoyant timepiece or elasto-titanium-stitch boardshort; there was a time when you just needed a surfboard. It was pretty damn simple, actually. Professional surfer and all-around hip cat Jun Jo and legendary underground shaper Jason Kashiwai understood this long forgotten truth all too well. They wanted to create a place where surfers could feel at home. And so Residence was born.

Now open and discreetly located above Pa’ina Café in Ward Warehouse, Residence is a surf showroom supplying strictly hard goods; it’s also a place where surfers can feel like surfers.

Looking around the shop, wooden cargo crates adorn the walls and an eclectic array of art on canvas sporadically hangs. There are no ads, no label banners bearing dripping, stone-faced models, no propaganda. One side of the room bears a shelf with a myriad of upright fins, next to which a sole rack dangles leashes and deck pads, and behind that, a wall with a row of glowing surfboards. Near the center of the room, like a profound symbol of its atmosphere, an unpainted, beach park picnic table stands stoically.

According to Jun Jo, “I just wanted a place for guys to come and talk about surfing. If you wanna buy a board or some fins, go ahead; if not, cruise, watch surf movies, eat lunch…there’s no pressure. It’s like—it sounds bad—but I don’t even care. It’s not about the money; it’s about that feeling.”

But if it’s not about the money, then what is that feeling? “It’s about going to a shop when you were a grom and the older guys would make you

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clean up the place for some stickers,” says Jun. “It wasn’t about sponsors or getting paid, but just being around guys who surfed and talked about surfing. I’m not gonna shove anything down anyone’s throat over here.

I just want a place where you can come in from Kewalos or The Park— which is so close—grab some lunch, come up, eat, and know if you need a product for actual surfing, that it’s here, too.”

Apart from a homey, no-nonsense place to cruise, Residence also gives local Hawaiian shapers a platform to showcase and sell their boards, something a lot of them couldn’t afford to do in many other stores across the island. Like the shop’s pressure level, the prices, too, are deflated.

Simple and easy custom-board orders—with the help from an in-house pro surfer and shaper—are also a big part of what Residence is about.

“Yeah, we wanna get some plants in here, some more art work, a little more color,” Jun explains, looking around the room, “but a lot of boards too, both new and used from the pros. And a shit load of fins is mainly what it’s all about.”

As Jun finishes his sentence, a local kid walks in with a leash tan and sand still shedding from his feet and asks Jun if he could see a couple of the boards. “Yeah, man, take them out, lay ’em down next to each other on the floor to get a good look at the shapes,” says Jun as he perks up from the picnic table to help. There are no “see employee before removing board from racks” signs, so typical of surf shops these days, on the walls. And here, at Residence, there never will be. —Beau Flemister

inside section

Deep Cuts

Latronic

The ASP Thins The World Tour at Teahupoo

The World Tour is looking to shed some of its competitors after the conclusion of the Billabong Pro Tahiti this August. The move, which cuts the tour from the Top 45 to the Top 32 surfers from the World Tour roster, will be a watershed in the ASP’s history and is sure to receive a bevy of post-heat water-slaps from the cut surfers.

Heading into Teahupoo, surfers that comprised the top-12 positions on the World Tour are considered safe. The next 12 athletes are looking strong to requalify and the last round are in need of either a solid showing or a miracle to requalify.

Castles in the Sky

In the post-Teahupoo world, the ASP World Tour will become the ASP World Title Race. And if you’re head’s not spinning yet, the back half of the Top 32 will be replaced throughout the season by the top-ranked surfers through 6-stars and PRIME events come 2011.

“By trimming back the current Top 45 field as well as instituting the one-world rating system we ensure the ASP World Tour continues to be the most progressive and dynamic professional surfing tour on Earth,” said Mick Fanning about the changes.

Following the much heralded travel doc Sipping Jetstreams, Taylor Steele does it again with his latest creation, Castles in the Sky. Boiled down to its most simple premise, a select cast of the world’s best surfer/characters are dropped into the middle of five distinctly different and unique locales where they immerse themselves in the lineups and culture. But what makes Castles so unique isn’t the surfing, but it’s the off-the-beaten path locations that take center stage, a focus being placed on the faces, sites, and traditions of the distinct cultures that we often overlook in our unyielding search for the next uncrowded point.

Further, between poetic narrations, Steele is attempting to deliver a message to the surfing masses. Take off, get away, let go, and live the new and relish in the unknown. This is Steele’s mantra for Castles. With a different cast at each location, a short story is told delivering the common theme encouraging us all to not be so attached to our possessions and everyday lives. And in this time where bank accounts, jobs, and a mortgage reign supreme, it’s easy to feel like the film is talking directly to you.

While the destinations in Castles in the Sky are as diverse as they come, the cinematic experience remains top-notch throughout. Shot with a mix of lenses including the RED camera, the film is a constant mix of engaging lifestyle and ominous scenic shots. Add in the musical score, one in which each song was chosen and created specifically to help set and match the mood of the different location, and Castles in the Sky becomes a movie that anyone—surfer and landlubber alike—are able to appreciate. —Tyler Rock

6 Tips for a Better Style from Evan Valiere

1 2 3 4 5 6

Eyes and focus. People underestimate the power your eyes have to guide you. Your body and board will follow where your eyes go.

Paddling is one of the most stylish things you can do. Watch Reef McIntosh. He moves around like he might as well be in a bath, but he’ll be paddling into the heaviest waves in the world.

Do the moves that fit the wave. Read the wave first and surf it how it should be surfed. Think about that one.

For a stylish cutback, keep your front arm low, by your hip, and your back arm out behind you as you go into a cutback.

Look to Bruce Irons for an example.

A simple shift in the hips, either forward or backward and above your stringer line can make all the difference in your bottom or top turn. More hips, less hands and upper body.

Live a positive smooth lifestyle. What you do on land always translates into your surfing. Think Gerry Lopez.

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Rob Machado, Cardiff. Photo: Glaser / A-Frame

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San Clemente. Photo: Jeremiah Klein

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Drew Ventura, Central Coast.

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Photo: Lawrence / A-Frame

Gabe Kling, Lower Trestles.

Salt Creek.

Photo: Latronic

Photo: Latronic

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Skylar Stokes, Ventura.

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La Jolla Shores.

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photo: Thrailkill

photo: Thrailkill

Mick Fanning, Trestles. photo: Latronic

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Dylan Goodale, Upper Trestles. photo: Paul Fischer

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Cory Arrambide, Lower Trestles. seq: Latronic

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Danny Fuller, The Wedge. photo: Fischer

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The

Unmistakable

Zeke Lau

By Jeff Mull

Above it all sits Kamehameha School, a place Zeke has called home nearly his entire life.

It's no doubt this elevated perspective has helped him reach the top of his class.

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Heff

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Early morning alley-oop at Big Rights. When you surf like Zeke, others can't help but stare.

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n a Tuesday morning in the mountains that girdle Honolulu, at a time when almost all of his teenage counterparts across the world are scheduling their home school studies around the day’s tides and winds, Ezekiel Lau can be found hunched over an honest-to-God school desk at Kamehameha, diligently working on a geometry problem.

The class is thick with theorems and is admittedly not the easiest of subjects. “Yeah, geometry definitely isn’t my favorite class,” he says, “but I really like art history this quarter.” Just a few weeks back, summer was in full bloom, Zeke had never heard of “parallelograms” or “congruent segments” and the only thing on his mind was winning another national title. But that was weeks ago. School was back in session now and his priorities have changed. Back in Ms. Slagel’s geometry classroom, leagues away from the photo shoots and boat trips that his peers are undoubtedly planning and undertaking right now, Zeke is analyzing right angles and polygons. He’s in a world removed from pro surfing, but at the same moment, he’s right where he should be.

At a time in surfing when it has become common practice to pull a child from public school and begin homeschooling them the moment he or she lands their first air, Zeke has become an anomaly in the sport, one of only a few teenage surfers destined for lucrative careers who attend traditional school. Already laurelled as a flag bearer to take Hawaii into the coming decades, Zeke makes his way through the internationally recognized academic standards at Kamehameha Schools day in and day out. He knows that in some ways he’s at a disadvantage to his peers, but his vision is wide and free of myopia. He sees the bigger picture. He’s heard the stories of those that came before him, and he knows that his success isn’t necessarily based upon a spread in a magazine and a contest win.

This game, this profession, is a marathon,

Seq: Baeseman

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Kewalos was once a place where kids weren't necessarily appreciated. But once Zeke Lau, Derek Wong, and crew started surfing the place, all that changed.

not a sprint. There’s more to being a successful surfer than just being a talented surfer. This much Zeke’s sure of.

“Both my parents went to college and they both played sports. My dad played football at UH and my mom played volleyball there. For them, it’s always been important for me to have a good education. They could balance school with sports, and so can I,” says Zeke as we walk through the picturesque Kamehameha campus on a sweltering Honolulu afternoon.

“I’m not gonna lie, I know it would be a lot easier if I did homeschool. I’d have more time to surf and more time to travel. But that’s not what I’m gonna do right now. Graduating from Kamehameha is really special. I’ll just have to

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work twice as hard as everyone else.”

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he foundations that support Ezekiel Lau might as well be made of structural-grade reinforced steel. Zeke’s father, Leonard, is tall, muscular and has the posture of a forgedmetal knife. When he speaks, his eyes are trained on yours and you get the feeling that he doesn’t have a lot of time for nonsense. “Zeke’s always been really athletic,” he tells me as he gives me a walking tour of the school. “When he was younger, he was really talented at a lot of sports. Baseball, soccer, and surfing…he’s always just been really athletic. Did you know that Zeke’s played two sports plus surfing all the way through intermediate school? It was really

important for me to instill a sense of what it means for him to be part of a team. Surfing is such an individual sport, but there’s so many of life’s lessons that can be learned from team sports, like what it means to pull your own weight as part of a team. It’s important to have that balance. Even before he got hurt last year, he was still playing soccer, but since he got hurt, it’s just too much for his back….”

And there it is. The hurt. As Leonard alluded, Zeke suffered what could have been a career-ending injury last year when he broke his back sticking a lumbar-fracturing floater. The moment his fins met the cement-like strip of water at Haleiwa, compressing his spine upon itself, Zeke knew that something was wrong.

Zeke suffered what could have been a career-ending injury last year when he broke his back sticking a lumbar- fracturing floater. The moment his fins met the cement-like strip of water at Hale‘iwa, compressing his spine upon itself, Zeke knew that something was wrong. Just how wrong, he didn’t know.

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Baeseman

Zeke at school and home.

Just how wrong, he didn’t know.

“As soon as I did that floater, when I felt my back give out, I pretty much knew something was off. It knocked all the wind out of me and the next day I knew it was really bad. But I kept surfing on it. It was getting worse and worse and by the time Nationals came around, it was pretty bad,” Zeke says. When he references the injury, you get the vibe that even talking about it still makes him feel queasy.

Holding a lifelong dream to claim a national title, Zeke soldiered up and withstood the pain, making the flight from his Honolulu abode to San Clemente for Nationals. “I could barely ride on the plane it was so bad. I had to get to Lowers and the event two hours before my

heat just so I could get into a wetsuit and warm up. If I didn’t warm up for a few hours before my heat, I couldn’t even stand up.”

But Zeke did stand up. In fact, he won his first national title on a fractured L7 vertebra. It was the shining moment in his amateur career and one that he had been thinking about for nearly a decade. But through the thrill of having a childhood dream realized, there was still the pain. The teeth-gritting, eye-squinting pain. An MRI down the road revealed the news: Zeke did indeed have a fractured vertebra. And if he wanted to ever surf again, he had two choices: surgery, or a three-month period sans physical activity. No surfing. No soccer. Nothing. He opted for the latter.

The ensuing three months of virtual immobility saw Zeke put down his board and trunks and spend his time recuperating. “Those three months when I was down, that was pretty tough. I didn’t surf at all,” laments Zeke. “But it actually turned out to be a good thing for me. I was able to focus a lot on all of the other things in my life that I couldn’t when I had to surf. I got my license, studied a lot, and was able to sort of step back from surfing. I think it was a good thing for me. It made me even hungrier to get back into it when I was healed up.”

And that’s exactly what happened.

“Zeke’s got a fire in him, that’s for sure,” says Volcom Hawaii coach Dave Riddle. “He always has. The first time I ever saw Zeke surf, F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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“I could barely ride on the plane it was so bad. I had to get to Lowers and the event two hours before my heat just so I could get into a wetsuit and warm up. If I didn’t warm up for a few hours before my heat, I couldn’t even stand up.”

he lost his heat. I think he was either 8 or 9 years old. And where a lot of kids who lose a heat at that age don’t really care, Zeke did. He cared. He wanted to win. Bad. And I’ve only seen that same sort of competitiveness in a few other surfers. Andy [Irons] specifically. But Zeke’s got it.”

More than just a coach, Dave Riddle has become a guiding light for Zeke, someone to look to for answers when life’s questions get tough. “Yeah, Dave is pretty much like family to me,” Zeke tells me. “He’s always been there. I was even the ring bearer at his wedding.”

“I’ve spent a lot of time with Zeke watching him develop into who he is today.

I’ve seen him as a young grom looking up to Dusty Payne and I’ve seen him turn into a surfer that a lot of the younger guys are looking up to now,” adds Riddle. “Zeke’s a good kid, a really good kid. I credit that a lot to his upbringing. His parents are good, hardworking people and I think it’s great that he’s chosen to stay in school. I think, as a sport, we’ve really abused the whole home school thing. I’m not saying that it’s not okay for some surfers—maybe someone who’s in their junior year of high school and you can clearly see that surfing is going to be a career for them—to finish their last year of high school through home school. But there are a lot of other kids right now that have been pulled out of a traditional school way too early. It’s taking a really big gamble on your kids. And I think we’re gonna see a lot of kids

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just sort of doing nothing with their future if being a pro doesn’t work out for them.”

But that’s not Zeke. Not hardly. As we meander through Kam’s campus, I sort of halfjokingly ask Zeke if he’s considering attending college. “You know, I’m still thinking about it,” he says, catching me off guard. “Maybe.

My parents both like the idea. But it would be pretty tough to miss out on that time of my life as a surfer…I don’t know.”

B

ack in Ms. Slagel’s class, under the blinding glow of a ceiling peppered with florescent lights, Zeke finishes up his equation. His mind immediately turns to what lies just down the hill from his school: Kewalo Basin. You wouldn’t have to watch too many old episodes of Dog the Bounty Hunter to get a good feel for the seediness that Kewalos exuded only a few years back. Ripe with drug addicts, drunks, and vagrants, Kewalos was no place for a kid to hang out. But that’s all changed now. Head down past the marina and into the parking lot and you’ll be met with mini vans and 12-year-olds in the same parking lots where miscreants once lurked. Kewalos has shed its old, shady image and taken up a much healthier and decidedly younger feel. And believe it or not, you can thank Zeke and a few of his friends for that.

“When he was younger and I used to take him and his friends surfing at Kewalos, I kept a pretty close eye on him from the parking lot,” says Zeke’s father, Leonard. “But Zeke

Heff

After a long day of school and a quick shave, Zeke comes to sea level to get lofty.

and his crew surfed out there all the time, and eventually, they built a relationship up with the people that hung out there. And after a while, the place started to fill up with other families taking their kids surfing and it took on a new feel.”

“I’d say Kewalos is definitely my homebreak. I love surfing down there,” says Zeke. “There’s pretty much always waves. Pretty much any day of the year you can go down there and find something fun to surf.”

Judging from the way he surfs Kewalos, his history with the peak is clear. Off the jetty, whether it’s on the quick, punty rights or the open-faced lefts, Zeke’s dominance is present.

Having seen him from the lineup, you get the feeling that Zeke may know Kewalos better than anyone, his eye for the right ramps and proper lefts second to none. Proof in the pudding, in a single weekend this summer, Zeke scalped two back-to-back wins in separate contests. People are now talking seriously about Zeke Lau. With all of the earmarks of a budding great, Zeke is the personification of what we hope our young surfers should become.

Humble, focused, and respectful, Zeke is the antitheses of the brash, cocky, and self-centered masses that surfing has come to expect from its upstarts. As Zeke transitions from high school and into the next stage of his career, we can only hope that the crop of surfers behind Zeke take to his example. Surfing doesn’t need another self-indulgent burnout. Surfing needs more Zeke Laus. n

Heather Brown Surf Art from the North Shore of Oahu Heatherbrownart.com

Baeseman

Photos: Kirk Lee Aeder

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The Real

HAWAII

Unearthing the Modern Surf Scene on the Big Island Story by Kirk Lee Aeder In the darkness of a pre-dawn morning we could all hear the waves breaking off in the distance.

Simply getting to them, however, now became the adventurous part. Carrying my tripod and a bag of camera equipment, I was soon trudging through a precarious trail with a’a lava rock crunching and crackling beneath my feet. Chasing swells on the Big Island is more often than not an interesting adventure to say the least. The risks are greater, and while there are never any guarantees, the rewards are usually worth it.

Marching through the lava fields is all part of the experience—just as it was today. You see a lot of the past out there: small shelter caves, petro glyphs, and worn-down ancient heiaus. Whether it’s the simplicity of pulling my car up at Banyans, or taking a 30-minute trek through the hot lava fields, riding the waves here is always a stroll through surfing’s history. Lessons are learned every day. And over the years the Big Island of Hawai‘i has been good to me that way.

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Upon this day our spot of choice had been a secluded break on the west side only the local crew knows about.

Accompanying me were CJ Kanuha and Kealamakia Naihe, two Big Island boys with big futures. As I photographed them surfing that morning, in-between sets I had time to reflect a bit about the Big Island—and how I had ended up here. Before moving over from Maui in 1993 all of my friends there kept telling me, “Are you nuts? Why are you doing that? There’s nothing over there!”

So why exactly was I doing this? If I was going to go there and leave Maui behind, I better have a good reason.

But there really wasn’t one. It was all just a feeling I had about the place. Having spent quite a bit of time there already the move seemed like a natural one.

At the time, the only surfer I knew of, or had ever even met from the Big Island, was a young kid named Shane Dorian. Upon a recommendation, in the late ’80s I had flown over to Kona to interview him for the first time.

He was shy, but I could tell he was a very surf-stoked kid with a fire in his eyes. The next time I saw him was at the

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1990 World Amateur contest in Japan where he was part of the strong contingent from Hawai‘i. Shane appeared to have grown a lot and when talking to him and I noticed that he had broken out of his shell.

I was told that if I was going to the Big Island to shoot surfing that it would be a bad idea. But since there wasn’t exactly much publicity coming from there at the time. I didn’t know if it was because of localism, or if just no one had even really tried but I certainly wasn’t out to put the place on the map. But as a photojournalist, I only wanted to document what was evolving here. During my first year or two Shane really didn’t want me to shoot photos of him, but I completely understood why. As the first real professional surfer from the Big Island he felt it would draw attention to the place.

So while the gamble I had taken by moving from Maui initially got off to a slow start, it was still one I was willing to take. The future held promise and I was sure of that. Things just needed to develop for a little while in a place where I learned that patience truly is a virtue.

Kirk Lee Aeder

The Big Island is to Dorian as Dorian is to the Big Island.

Baeseman

Surfers living on O‘ahu think a one-hour commute from Town to Country is bad.

Think again. Each side of the Big Island is almost like an island within itself.

The word “develop” in fact, best describes what it’s like to live and surf here. The island has been developing geographically for an inordinate amount of time and continues to do so at this very moment. Lava from Kilauea Volcano has been flowing continuously since 1984 and doesn’t appear as if it will halt anytime soon. It’s always interesting to hear the moans and groans of people living on the other islands when the Vog comes their way. But the most obvious example of what it’s like to live here can be found in the island’s name. The “Big” Island is twice as large as all the other Hawaiian islands combined.

There’s just so much ground to cover here, especially when it comes to getting around the volcanic mountains—all five of them. Surfers living on O‘ahu think a one-hour commute from Town to Country is bad. Or how about on Maui from Ho‘okipa to Honolua. Or on Kauai from Poipu to Hanalei? Think again. Each side of the Big Island is almost like an island within itself. It takes a vast amount of time traversing from one side to the other to chase waves.

Driving may be the hardest part, but rewards come in other ways. Like pulling into Kolekole beach park outside Hilo and cooling off in the freshwater streams, stopping at Tex’s Drive Inn in Honokaa for ono plate lunches and their signature malasadas, free coffee samples at several locations above scenic Kealakekua Bay, or checking out Lava Tree

CJ Kanuha, Big Island boost in ali‘i fashion.

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Kirk Lee Aeder

Park after returning from a surf in Puna. It’s said there are 13 climate zones in the world, and that 11 of these exist on the Big Island. So the sight of snow atop Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa is certainly not that unusual. To boot, most surfers living on the Big Island keep a snowboard or two in their closest just in case.

With so many remote areas it’s hard to envision how a place so isolated has been able to produce so many worldclass surfers. But just like the evolution of the land, over time, the same thing has happened out in the water. Kona, of course, is the most obvious example. Dorian’s influence initially led the way. Bodyboarder Mike Stewart certainly left his mark as well. And surfers like Kelly Slater and Rob Machado spending a considerable amount of time here, hasn’t exactly hurt the influence either.

Before long the youth movement was served: Casey Brown, Torrey Meister, Tonino Benson, CJ Kanuha, Kealamakia Naihe, Lahiki Minamishin, and Leilani Gryde for starters. It’s always been great being able to photograph the Kona crew. But throughout the Big Island there also exists a bevy of longtime surfers who make up the heart and soul of the underground: Lono Humphries, Ian Haight and Jerry Bess as examples. Undaunted, these guys chase it everywhere and anywhere.

Outside of Kona, other regions around the Big Island leave their marks in different ways. South Kohala, North Kohala, Honokaa, Hilo, Puna, and even Kau have hardcore surfers chasing it all the time, maybe not on a professional level, but just as hardcore. The single aspect that really separates the Big Island from the rest of the islands is the type of surf. White-sand beaches like Hapuna or Kauna’oa are few and far between. The reefs haven’t had enough time here geographically to develop yet. As a result the waves break in shallow water, treacherous for sure, and definitely carry more of a risk factor.

Throughout surfing’s tenure on the Big Island, Banyan’s has remained the epicenter of surfing in Kona. While it’s a great wave that offers a few perils, it’s nothing compared to some other spots nearby (spots that will remain nameless) that only the local guys know about; places that only a few guys like Torrey, CJ, and Shane in particular will ride. These are super heavy waves resembling mini versions of Backdoor, only breaking in shallower water.

With the seascape so daunting, a single mistake and you’ll literally end up getting dry-reefed in no time. Just ask Torrey Meister about a certain day this past winter. He and Dorian are cut from the same cloth, nothing seems to scare them. After a particularly harrowing wipeout, the cuts on Torrey’s face and body looked bad, but he brushed it off

Baeseman

like it was all just another day in the office. The Kona crew certainly has an all-out approach to the waves along their coast. Given the history of the area this only seems fitting as it has been noted to be one of the earliest birthplaces for the sport. Ku’emanu heaiu at Kahalu’u Bay, and portions of the ancient Hawaiian compound at Kamoa Point, are documented sites where surfing took place several hundred years ago.

Not to be undone on the Big Island when it comes to surfing history stoically stands North Kohala. The area is at the complete opposite end of the high-energy scene in Kona. But on a historical side, the stretch of coast from Pololu Valley south to Lapakahi State Park, is filled with surf history dating back well before the days of King Kamehameha. North Kohala was Kamehameha’s birthplace and a particular spot called Kapanai’a was his favorite place to surf.

The final element of the Big Island picture is Hilo, home to some surfing history of it’s own but in a much more sublime way. Other than Noah Johnson, I haven’t seen a serious run by anyone from there in a while but it seems like only a matter of time until one emerges.

Banyan boy Casey Brown is one of Kona's many natural wonders.

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Kirk Lee Aeder

CJ Kanuha, Big Island Style.

Snapping back to the present, I had taken a brief trip around the island and failed to notice that the winds had now clocked around to turn onshore. While I had been able to get some good shots, it wasn’t long until CJ and Keala finally paddled back in.

“Eh, you know what I like most about

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being born and raised up here? We can still have days like this, sessions with no one else around. I wouldn’t trade it for living anywhere else,” said CJ through a grin.

And that’s when I guess it hit me.

His well-timed comment felt like music to my ears. After making that big move from

Kirk Lee Aeder

Kirk Lee Aeder

Tonino Benson's creativity on a wave is as dynamic and enthralling as the Big Island itself.

Mauna Kea in all its glory.

Maui 17 years ago, I finally felt the same way. I truly had made the right decision after all. Surfing has evolved on the Big Island in so many ways during my tenure here. I’ve been fortunate to see it and look forward for more to come. n

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Jordy Smith, a solid runner-up.

The $100,000 Dollar Man Brett Simpson Wins His Second Hurley US Open Title Brett Simpson knows Huntington Beach better than you do. For that matter, Simpson knows HB better than all of the pros at this year’s Hurley US Open, too. And last year’s. After claiming yet another US Open victory—Simpson scalped the win in ’09 as well—in typical unflattering HB peaks, Brett’s become the man to beat when the surf circus sets up shop at Surf City. He also pocketed $100,000 for his win. Again. It’s good to be Brett Simpson. Again.

Throughout the glitz and glam of one of the most prestigious non World Tour events, Simpson looked characteristically clear headed and lethal at the 6-star PRIME. Testament to his talent, Simpo cut down the best in the business in the forms of Mick Fanning, Kelly Slater, and Julian Wilson to find himself in the final where he took on current World Tour leader Jordy Smith.

From the outset of the final, with tens of thousands of spectators scattered throughout the enormous and sprawling venue, Simpson and Smith traded mid-range scores. But in the

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end, with a Kasparov-like approach to the heat, Simpson prevailed over Smith with a 13.97 to Smith’s 8.33.

“It wasn’t exactly J-Bay, it’s Huntington, it’s never going to be perfect,” Smith said. “You’ve got to kind of adapt to everything and Brett did that the best. It’s a big event and Brett has done it again, congratulations to him.”

On the winner’s podium, with his $100,000 check in tow and affront his hometown crowd, Simpo took the microphone and addressed his HB family.

“Last year barely sank in and now I won this year,” Simpson said. “It’s so hard to imagine it all over again because you have to stay consistent and surf so many heats. Luckily I zoned everything out and tried not to worry about the points or the money and that’s when I have competed the best. To be at home with so many friends and family, I’ve enjoyed it so much. To win out here two years in a row is unimaginable.

“Jordy has been getting quick starts, so

I tried to go out there and get a decent start,” Simpson said. “I got a five, and it was a low scoring heat, but all the waves I caught I maximized. Jordy had that one wave, where if he pulled that air it could have been a different ballgame. That’s the risk you take to be rewarded and with the level these days, that’s where it’s at.

I kind of stayed conservative and built my scores, but either way, a win is a win.”

Simpson, who made his debut this year on the World Tour this year, has been struggling to find the success he’s proven capable of achieving. But with yet another monumental win etched into his belt, you can rest assured that Brett’s confidence will be soaring as he heads into the rest of the season.

“It’s amazing to beat those guys,” Simpson said. “I guess this is my best chance to compete against those guys and I know the wave really well and I just go out there and stay confident. I know which waves score the best and that’s all you can do against those guys.”

Mike Lallande

Surf City.

Mike Lallande

Brett Simpson, little wave, big deal.

Mike Lallande

Huntington’s own Brett Simpson has two trophies like this. And two big checks to go with them.

Mike Lallande

news & events

news & events

Lessons Learned Carissa Moore Hits Her Stride

Freesurf: Your year started off a little slow, but about For nearly as long as she’s been halfway through this year things started to come into place surfing, Carissa Moore has for you with a win at New Zealand and then this one at been at the apex of her game, the US Open. Did anything change for you? becoming the most talked about young female surfer in the history of the sport.

Carissa Moore: I don’t know if anything changed And then things changed. but I am just trying to approach each event with At the outset of her maiden year confidence and excitement to surf and perform. I on the World Tour, Carissa began think focusing on those things and staying positive losing. Chalk it up to rookie jitters, is the most important thing and from there things but with back-to-back ninth-place will fall into place. finishes in the first two events, you’d be hard pressed to find an insider FS: It’s been said that people learn more from not questioning just what was going losing than winning. That we don’t really know on with Carissa Moore. And then, just much about ourselves until we’re not on top. as inexplicably as her early season dry Have you found this to be true? spell took hold, it faded and Carissa once again began surfing with the CM: I definitely think this is true. I have flow, power, and confidence that we’d learned so much from my losses this become accustomed to. And she started year and it’s winning again. First at New Zealand, my and then recently at the US Open where she took home the richest prize purse in women’s surfing. Post wins, we talked to Carissa about why loosing may be the best thing to ever happen to her.

losses that have really pushed me forward and helped me to realize what I want. I have had some crazy ups and downs this year so far but I am learning how to find balance and keep myself motivated, happy, and excited. I am loving life right now.

FS: Was being on the tour and traveling full time anything like what you expected?

CM: It’s actually a lot different than I expected.

I didn’t anticipate being away from home so much and missing my family and friends as much as I do. It’s hard learning how to keep my mind off of home. Also the waves aren’t as perfect as I thought they would be. It’s really challenging moving to a new place, adapting in a short amount of time and performing at your best. There are a lot more factors that go into an event and a win than I originally thought and that has given me a new appreciation for what the full-time professional surfer does FS: So we know that you donated your prize money from New Zealand to the local community? Are you considering donating your prize money from the US Open to the people of Huntington.

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JP Van Swae

CM: Haha...thanks. I actually don’t know exactly what I am going to do with it yet but I have some fun ideas in mind.

Mike Lallande

news & events

The New Floridian Evan Geiselman Claims Nike 6.0 Pro Junior

Evan Geiselman’s stock is rising. Fast. Between his trail of success that stretches all the way back to his hometown in Florida to his most recent win at the 6.0 Pro Junior held at the US Open, Geiselman can now relish in the fact that he’s become one of America’s most lethal juniors and the current ASP North America Pro Junior champ.

“I think I’ve just been rolling off of this whole year with confidence,” said Geiselman on the podium at Huntington post win. “I took it serious, but just had fun and did what I wanted to do. I didn’t let anything get in my heat and just surfed. This year has been crazy for me and I can’t believe it.”

In his final, Evan faced a formidable challenge in the form of Kolohe Andino, Miguel Pupo, and Alejo Muniz. Utilizing his knack for progression, Geiselman punted his way to a lead over the other finalists in the small, shifty HB peaks. With the clock ticking down and a few thousand of his best friends littering the beach, Evan narrowly sealed the win over Alejo Muniz with a razor-thin .3 margin. To boot, Evan’s win at the comp saw him follow in his older brother Eric’s footsteps by clinching the family’s second ASP North America Pro Junior Series Title.

“To win the ASP North America Pro Junior Title is amazing and I’m just looking forward to going to Bali. That was my main goal this year, so this is awesome. I don’t even know what to say.”

Results 6.0 Pro Junior 6.0 Pro Junior Women Hurley US Open Women Hurley US Open men

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Evan Geiselman (USA) Sage Erickson (USA) Carissa Moore (HAW) Brett Simpson (USA)

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TW Surf’s High-5

Bringing Randomness Back to Surf Films Transworld’s latest film, High-5, makes me feel like a teenager again. And I mean that in a good way. Drunk on the likes of Modern Collective, Castles in the Sky, and their ilk, I didn’t realize how much I missed watching a film that wasn’t necessarily out to mesmerize me with some RED Camera-quality imagery, but was rather about making me want to go surf. This is where High-5 succeeds.

The premise to the movie was simple: take five surfers, capture them in waves that make you hate your homebreak, and set it all to a really good soundtrack. Voila. You’ve got yourself a surf movie. But somewhat reminiscent of the old …Lost movies and Jesse Schluntz’s Teardevils series, the best elements in the film are the random shit that’s seemingly worked into the movie sporadically, giving the film a raw, tarnished feel.

Whether it’s a girl doing a back-bend in a thong or what appears to be Japanese anime, something about this absurdity totally works in High-5.

With a soundtrack picked by Transworld’s Chris Cote, the film’s score also had a rough feel to it that gave another sense of legitimacy to High-5.

And truth be told, I was getting a little sick of all that electro-fusion-type stuff anyway. I appreciated the soundtrack so much that I actually paused the credits to jot down the names of bands I’ve never heard of, a move that has made my morning commute infinitely more enjoyable.

As far as the surfing is concerned, I walked away from the movie thinking that Eric Geiselman may very well be the most underrated surfer on the planet. Although we heard that Kerrupt airs aren’t quite as cool as they were a few years ago, Eric does two of them on a single wave. Along with a really tweaked nose-pick, his section was definitely impressive. But the real meat of the film was AI’s section. While today’s airs are getting so tech that you need an engineer or a 15-year-old to decipher them, watching Andy pull into four-section barrels on his backhand without flinching never gets old. Solid surfing is timeless. So yes, I plan on watching High-5 repeatedly. The movie may not blow you away, but damn, it sure makes you want to go surf with a bunch of your friends.

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Mark Cunningham

Surfing's Renaissance Man Speaks Up

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point in his life that would develop Mark into becoming one of the world’s leading innovators and ambassadors of the sport, not to mention his accolades as a six-time Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic champion. To boot, Mark’s relationship with Herbie Knutson also instigated his 29-year long career as a City and County of Honolulu lifeguard. Nearly 20 years of his career found him staked out at the Ehukai beach park overlooking Pipeline, the place where Mark has become almost notoriously associated with by the public. Mark finally retired from lifeguarding six years ago.

“On that salary, I knew I’d be taking a vow of poverty, which is why I don’t have kids and still rent at my age. But c’mon! To get paid to go to the beach and bodysurf, it wasn’t even a question for me.”

So Mark doesn’t really consider himself a waterman or an activist. As influential as he may not even know himself to be, we stare into the glistening Pacific at dusk. He shakes his head thoughtfully, “I’m just a fan. I like to swim and I love the ocean. It’s like, I still can’t wait for the magazines to come out and see who’s done what or gone where. Surfing still gives me that same feeling it did as a kid, nearly 50 years later.” —Beau Flemister

Heff

“I’ve been called a great waterman…but I’m really f--king not,” laughs Mark Cunningham. With the voice of a true storyteller, one that enunciates every word, every sentence with just the right amount of emphashis, the way Mark Cunningham speaks is powerful but humble. “Mel Pu’u, Brian Keaulana, Dennis Gouveia—those are the real watermen. Somehow, I just know all those guys.”

We walk over to a picnic table in a backyard overlooking the pristine Kawela Bay where Mark rents a downstairs studio. He’s 55 years old now, but still stands fit with a 6’5” swimmers frame. He has a snowy buzz-cut and a face like a sea-weathered Irish fisherman. I haven’t even asked him any questions yet and he instinctively begins with childhood. He was raised in Niu Valley and learned to surf at the fickle-but-laden-with-potential reefs that line the shores of Hawaii Kai. His dad bought him countless $10 styrofoam “surfboards” from Times Supermarket in Kahala, which Mark broke pool sliding in friends’ backyards. Lifeguard Herbie Knutsen took Mark under his wing, got him his first pair of fins, and threw him into the water at Sandys. This began Mark’s lifelong love affair with bodysurfing, a

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The Picture Show Recollections on the Third Annual Surf Film Festival

With 12 Hawai‘i premieres, a chance to win a Wade Tokoro board, the World premiere of The Oxbow Watermen Experience, Da Spot’s earthily delightful cuisine, free parking in Honolulu and copious amounts of Kona Brewery/Barefoot Wine & Bubbly libations, filmgoers at this year’s Surf Film Festival at the Doris Duke were, in a word, satisfied.

Mature-beyond-his-years filmmaker Nate Apffell set the tone with his frame of mind at the festival. “Hawai‘i is where surfing was born.

I had to come here.” He attended the premiere, all leis, smiles, and stoke from longboarding shin-high Waikiki. Apfell had another premiere in Paris the same night; he picked Hawai‘i. So mature.

This year’s festival outdid itself with an Eddie-sized spectrum in the surfing documentary genre. The hard work of film curator Gina Caruso, assistant film curator Beckie Strocchetti and support staff of “The Doris” made it possible. Both the opening night and Oxbow receptions were sold out affairs, with The Oxbow Waterman Experience becoming so popular it hana hou’d on September 14 and 15. The films delved into everything from getting back to the roots of soul surfing set to an outstanding score; to five artists who surf; to Kelly Slater and the Malloy Brothers surfing…wait for it...Ireland; to how surfing became a stronghold for Mexican orphans in Tapachula; to the überdangerous-yet-rewarding world of surf photography; to the breathtaking mauka-makai cinematography of 180° South (watch it again on Netflix); to surf classic Innermost Limits of Pure Fun, and more. The festival closed with Bud Browne and Anna Trent Moore’s heartfelt tribute film of Moore’s famous Dad, Buzzy Trent.

Beginning and ending with Hawai‘i premieres (Lost Prophets and Wake Unto Blue, respectively), the festival spanned 22 nights of jawdropping (Brian Conley filming himself with a 12-lb. camera in a massive barrel), heart-warming (children who don’t even know how to swim surfing in Bangladesh), inspiration-giving (this writer may never surf Jaws, but much can be said for conquering the fears that keep us from riding), and gratitude-inducing (all those wetsuits made me kiss the decadently tropical water I float on) moments. It can be likened to watching a film festival about the Olympics in Greece, or reggae in Jamaica, or pizza in New York.

There’s just something special about origins, whether they are our own, the things that we love, or the places where those things happened for the first time. For surfing, that place is Hawai‘i. —Katherine Hsia

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China’s Message

Bernie Baker

Despite Hard Times, China Uemura Continues to Donate to Nonprofit Hospitals

In lieu of the tragic effect the crashing economy has had on philanthropy world wide, a glimmer of hope remains in the surfing world. For more than two-anda-half decades, China Uemura has sought to give back to his native Honolulu through his annual longboard classic surf contest in Waikiki. Over the course of the event’s life, China has raised more than $200,000 for local charities. And despite seeing a dip in the amount of entries for this year’s event, China has still managed to cut a check to the Shriner’s Hospital for Children.

“Since I started this event 26 years ago, I’ve been trying to give back to the community. When I was a pro, I was given a lot by a lot of people. And now I’m trying to give back,” says Uemura. “Over the years, I’ve given to different charities—the Boys and Girls Club and others—but Shriner’s has a lot of meaning to me. They help a lot of kids out who really need the help.”

As Uemura alluded, Shriner’s hospitals are a network of more than 20 not-for-profit hospitals across North America that specialize in treating children with severe burns or orthopedic problems. The organization has done a tremendous amount of good and has been labeled as “The World’s Greatest Philanthropy.”

“It’s an honor to be part of China’s tournament. He has a long history of philanthropic work in the community,” said Shriner’s, “and we have been blessed with his support for a number of years and we look forward to the event every year.”

True to China’s eclectic surfing heritage, the event included divisions for longboarding, SUP, as well as amateur and other specialty heats. But this event wasn’t just about surfing. More than a contest, this event has become a staple for the people and the fact that it’s all for a good cause serves as the icing on the cake, even with the hard times.

“Unfortunately, with the economy and all, we didn’t have the normal amount of entries that we usually get. But I understand, it’s hard for a lot of people right now to spend extra money, but we’re still doing it and looking forward to next year. I love putting on this contest every year.

Between the good vibes in the water and the charity we support, the event is always refreshing,” added Uemura. “And with sponsors Primo Beer and 88 Tees on board this year, we had a great event.”

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Seriously, what’s up with Jamie Mitchell? The guy’s like a Navy SEAL and an Olympic gold medalist wrapped in a suit of body armor. If he’s not the paddling equivalent of Zeus, than we’re hanging up the towel and starting over with our lives. Once again, Jamie took another paddleboard scalp at the Molokai-2-Oahu World Paddleboard Championships this summer when he finished the 32-mile race in a little more than four hours and 52 minutes. “You had to really work for everything you got out there,” said Mitchell after the event. “The wind seemed a little more out of the north, meaning a lot of disorganization out there so you had to really work through the bumps.”

We’re definitely dog people over here at the magazine, so when we heard about Rex the Surf Dog, we were pretty hyped. Born and… err…bred at Sunset Beach, Rex the Surf Dog helps spread the joy of reading to Hawaiian children. Good on ya, Rex, we’re excited to get a few new readers in the mix.

And to prove what tremendous strides the Brazilians are making in surfing these days, Wiggolly Dantas took top honors at the six-star Sourez Lacanau Pro in France in August. And in 10 years, when the World Tour is chock full of Brazilians, don’t say we didn’t tell you so in advance. Stoked for you, Wiggolly. Way to go.

And lastly, just to show how worldly surfing has become, a recent study stated that surfing is one of the fastest-growing outdoor activities in Canada. We’re sure the wetsuit companies were stoked to hear that news.

If you’re looking to surf an uncrowded peak in late September, you’d be wise to steer clear of Surfer’s Corner on Muizenberg Beach in South Africa. Attempting to break the current record for most surfers on a single wave (the record currently stands at 110) flocks of surfers will line the coast, making Surfer’s Corner literally the most crowded wave on the planet. Let’s hope they do it.

In a story that’s sure to warm the heart, we’re stoked to read that the Gaza City Surf Club is sporting 23 new boards thanks to the nonprofits ExploreCorps and Surfing 4 Peace.

Reef founder Fernando Aguerre has fashioned himself into one of surfing’s greatest philanthropists through his Liquid Nation fundraiser.

In partnership with SIMA, the fundraiser raised more than $200,000 for charity this year while honoring musician Jason Mraz as the Humanitarian of the Year. “The success of Liquid Nation Ball 7 confirms the surf industry’s core values and growing influence and the impact the surf industry is making through humanitarian organizations in the world,” said Aguerre.

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last look

Next Issue: Sometimes you have to look back in order to move forward. We may have told you not to, but we can't help but look back on last year's epic season. This year couldn't be better than last...or could it?

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Latronic

Greg Long, getting caught up in the moment.

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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