Fsmv8 10

The 2011 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Preview

Free in Hawai‘i

October V8#10 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

T h e i s l a n d s’ f i n e s t the 10 most influential hawaiian surfers ever Terror in Tahiti Teahupoo goes next level

Kiron Jabour Photo: Heff

PHOTO: HANK/AFRAME

EVAN VALIERE F A C E B O O K . C O M / H U R L E Y

a n a l o g c l o t h i n g . co m

Free Parking Every so often, a swell of this magnitude lives up to the hype.

From its initial explosion in Tahiti to the bombs it dropped in Town, this was clearly a swell to remember. Bruce Irons, on a wave he'll never forget. Photo Kirsten / ASP

12

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

13

Contents

Heff

V8#10 October 2011

34 Triple Vision

Haleiwa, Sunset, and Pipe. They’re a lot closer than you think.

40 Legends of the Fall

Forget perfect surf, we’re thirsting for blood.

48 The 10 Most Influential Hawaiian Surfers Because magazines make lists, and these surfers made ours.

56 Bombs Over Honolulu

10-foot Bowls, unhinged buoys, and stand-up barrels.

If Town keeps firing like this, who needs winter?

14

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

V8#10 Octoberber, 2011

12 Free Parking Bruce Irons and a 20-foot tube.

20 Ed Note It's not easy making lists.

Expires Oct. 31, 2011

Expires Oct. 31, 2011

22 Sections A new take on Bobby Martinez; Brooke Dombroski's phone takes better pictures than yours; Music to your ears (and eyes); Town takes on Country at the Red Bull Rivals.

32 Shoots A birds-eye-view of Pipe.

66 P au Hana One man's unquentiable thirst to end plastic water bottles.

74 Closeout Michael Ho bids his sweet goodbyes to summer.

Jessica Wertheim

Contents

V8#10 Octoberber

Kiron Jabour Photo: Heff

Th thirst’s

Up! r

sa pub re g

en re

ou

Find Longboard on tap and in bottles throughout the Islands and the West Coast

ra

t

nt cer

Check out our Pubs!

KOna Brewery & pub 75-5629 Kuakini Hwy Kailua Kona, HI 96740 • 808-334-BREW (2739) KoKO mARINA PUB 7192 Kalaniana’ole Hwy Honolulu, HI 96825 • 808-394-KONA (5662)

Get

20 off

When you spend $50 or more.

Must present coupon upon purchase. Excludes alcohol, tax, gratuity, & retail items. Not to be combined with any other discounts or promotions. Valid Mon-Thurs at Koko Marina location only.

Join us at the Koko Marina Pub! free surf coupon

Free Thinkers

Clark Carroll, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Ryan Kelly, Albee Layer, Janna Irons

Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Sergio Oliveira, Tyler Rock

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Jeff Hall, Enich Harris, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Tracy Kraft Leboe, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Allen Mozo, Zak Noyle, Carol Oliva, Pake Solomon, Kaz Sano, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Batel Shimi, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson

Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Office Manager Siri Masterson

if

t

ied

res

au

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Onaha Hutter

Expires 12/31/11

Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

A product of Manulele, Inc. 2011

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE BRICKHAUS SHIRT

Editor’s note cultural ponderings

The Perils of the List I’ll be upfront and say that I know that there are a few of you out there who will undoubtedly be pissed at us for our 10 Most Influential Hawaiian Surfers list.

“How could you leave so and so out!” you’ll scream with passion.

“What the (insert favorite expletive here) about him/her! You guys are a bunch of kooks!” you’ll violently yell.

But it’s cool. We saw it all coming from beyond the horizon and have already thickened our skin in anticipation for the deluge of angry emails that are sure to come. That being said, as I look back over our list one last time to minimize the ensuing vitriol before we go to press, I’m pretty confident that we’ve compiled a formidable gathering of surfers here.

Here’s the backstory: A few months ago, as we were planning out this issue, we began toying with the concept of collecting a handful of Hawaiian surfers that had the greatest influence on the sport. Take a quick mental note: the key word in that last sentence was “influence.”

This wasn’t a list ranking the best Hawaiian surfers or the most gregarious or the ones with the most aloha, this was a list based on influence.

Bethany Hamilton is a prime example. In our small and narrow surfing world, Bethany wouldn’t be on everyone’s short list. We knew that. But 20

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

taken at a macro level, looking at Bethany’s influence and the affect that her remarkable story has had on the rest of the world, and it could be argued that she’s been the most impactful ambassador of surfing since the Duke. Who else had a Hollywood blockbuster and knows Oprah?

But then again, there were those that deserved a place on our list but inevtiably fell short. Who among you are familiar with the name George Freeth? Predating Duke Kahanamoku’s influence, Freeth, who hailed from Honolulu, is credited with being the father of modern surfing and lifeguarding. After being famously immortalized for surfing by author Jack London while on a trip to Hawaii, Freeth was hired as the world’s first professional surfer to demonstrate the sport to onlookers in California in 1907. He went on to become the first lifeguard in the United States and has been credited for saving hundreds of lives. But at the end of the day, he wound up on the editing room floor.

So as you peruse through our list and gasp at what you’ll deem to be our shortcomings, keep in mind that we’re only editors making a magazine. We’re not perfect. Our only hope was to pay recognition to a group of Hawaiian surfers that changed the sport forever. Please enjoy, and take it easy on the hate mail. —Jeff Mull

Maui

Whalers Village, KaĘťanapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

sections

A Quick Word About Bobby Martinez’s Rant

Random Bits

ASP

By the time this issue goes to print, the buzz surrounding Bobby Martinez’s post-heat interview at the Quik Pro New York will have virtually flatlined. By then, I think we’ll all have had the time to sift through the F-bombs and give some honest thought to what Mr. Martinez was getting at. Had Bobby toned down the speech, the man made some very thought-provoking points.

Here’s a quick overview of what Bobby said, and what we think he meant.

What He Said: “First of all, I’d like to say (and the ASP are going to fine me) I don’t want to be a part of this dumb f--king wannabe tennis tour...”

What He Meant: “Let me begin by saying (and I fully expect that the ASP will impose a financial penalty for the ensuing remark) that I’d rather not compete any longer with the ASP. The new changes to the system that mimic that of tennis, and are not to my liking.”

What He Said: “How the f--k is somebody who’s not even competing against our caliber of surfers ahead of 100 of us on the one world ratings? They’ve never been here. They’ve never f--king made the right to surf against us, but now we’re ranked upon them.

Come on now. That’s bullshit. That’s why I aint going to these stupid contests no more.”

What He Meant: “I’m not certain that it makes sense for someone who has never competed against elite surfers like myself to be rated amongst us. Please, identify with my point. This system is flawed. That’s why I’m no longer interested in competing in with the ASP.”

Stuff we Like

Stuff you need 1

1

In honor of our wipeout feature “Legends of the Fall” we’re featuring a few things you’ll need for this winter to stay alive—or at least infection-free.

3

2 1

Scissors For things that need cutting.

2

Non-Woven pad For padding wounds.

3

Butterfly bandage For when you don’t quite need stitches.

4

Adhesive bandages For your open wounds, big and small.

5

Athletic tape For broken fingers and toes.

6

Alcoholic prep pad For preventing infection.

7

Board Bog For a temporary fix to a small ding.

2 5

4

6 3

1 2 3 4

22

4

House of Marley Exodus Headphones / TheHouseOfMarley.com Dragon Experience II Sunglasses / DragonAlliance.com The Throwdowns “Legs of Our Own” / TheThrowdowns.com Surfing in Hawaii: 1778—1930 Timothy Tovar DeLaVega

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

7

sections A Very Civil War The Red Bull Rivals Pits the North Vs South

North Shore Against the South Shore

With an interactive element that brings in the public, surf fans are able to vote on which surfers compose each team. With 10 positions open for each roster, it’s up to the fans to see that their hometown team shows up with their finest surfers on hand. The games will be built on a total of 20, 10-minute heats surfed over the comp and are more akin to a team-run marathon than a sprint.

In the past two years, the South Shore has narrowly trumped the North Shore and taken back-to-back wins. With the two captains for each team already chosen—Honolulu’s Jun Jo will be leading the South Shore while Pancho Sullivan will be at the helm of the North Shore—this year’s event is already coming to fruition.

Show which side you rep by cheering for your hometown at Sandy’s on either October 22 or 23.

26

F R E E S U R F MAG A ZIN E.CO M

Noyle / Red Bull

xx

There’s a war brewing in Hawaii. On opposing coasts of Oahu, tensions bubble, brew, and fester. But there’s something amiss. These soldiers don’t carry rucksacks, guns, or grenades. Tucked neatly under their arms, in the place of a weapon, is a thruster. They’re not fighting for liberty, equality, or natural resources, but for pride—regional pride to be exact. Welcome to the Red Bull Rivals, an event where the best surfers from Town take on the best the North Shore has on offer.

Held at neutral ground at Sandy Beach, depending on conditions, October 22 or 23 will mark the third time this-one-ofa-kind event has posted up scaffolding in the islands. To boot, the 10 surfers that are competing on both the North and South Shore teams are doing it not for money, but for the pride of taking home the title of the best coast on Oahu. And If hometown pride wasn’t enough, the losing team’s quiver is also on the line.

ONE OCEAN, ONE PLANET, ONE ARTIST

Sea of Tranquility Original oil painting by Wyland © 2011.

MEET WYLAND Saturday November 26th, 2011 6-10pm Wyland Galleries Haleiwa North Shore Marketplace 66-250 H Kamehameha Hwy Haleiwa, Hi 96712

For Information Call (808) 637-8729

Ocean Wave Original Envira Glass sculpture by Wyland © 2011.

sections music and rant

play list “ Season’s Trees” Danger Mouse and Daniele Luppi “ It Was a Good Day” Ice Cube “ New Sensation” INXS “ Otis” Kanye West and Jay-Z “ Why I Love You” Kanye West and Jay-Z “ Heaven’s On Fire” The Radio Dept.

Dawes Nothing is Wrong In 2009 Dawes received critical acclaim for their first album, North Hills. Their latest release, Nothing is Wrong, showcases their Americana sound on another level. Composed of two brothers, Taylor and Griffin Goldsmith, Wylie Gelber, and Tay Strathairn, Dawes could easily be described as a modern version of The Eagles. They hail from Los Angeles, but have an organic, Southern Rock sound that might make you question their metropolitan, West Coast roots. In fact, lyrically they appear to hold no special place in their hears for LA at all.

Take the first track for example, “Time Spent in Los Angeles.” As the lyrics go, “You’ve got that special kind of sadness; You’ve got that tragic set of charms; That only comes from time spent in Los Angeles; Makes me wanna wrap you in my arms.” This love/hate relationship with their hometown is a theme that carries throughout the album. “Coming Back to a Man” is a straightforward explanation of a human

“ Tanhauser / Derive” Refused

They hail from Los Angeles, but have an organic, Southern Rock sound that might make you question their metropolitan, West Coast roots.

“ We Come from the Bright Side” 60 Watt Kid

reaction to being wronged. “A Little Bit of Everything” is a heartbreakingly empathetic story of loss and resilience that just might make your eyes well up with tears.

If you haven’t had the opportunity to hear Dawes, definitely check them out. You’ll be glad you did. Available on iTunes. —Jordon Cooper

“ Truth” Alexander

Social Media Quote of the Month

28

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

“ @aspworldtour my check from the Puerto Escondido contest bounced Am I being punked right now?”

—Jesse Merle Jones, via Twitter

“ Everything is Wrong” Blonde Redhead

sections Brooke Dombroski

new exhibits It’s no secret that we’re fans of photographer and all-around legend Brooke Dombroski. Hell, we even wrote a mini profile on her a few months back.

But recently, Brooke's work gained some widespread attention when she held her first official showing at the Human Imagination downtown. We caught up with Brooke after the show to get her take.

First off, can you talk about the show? Have you had many exclusive showings like this in the past?

The First Friday gallery showing at the Human Imagination was my first “solo show.” I’m a fashion and lifestyle photographer by profession but wanted to show something different to the public so I decided to show photos taken only on my iPhone. Although it wasn’t advertised as an “iPhone Only Show” I enjoyed telling people and witnessing their reactions. I wanted to capture the everyday events that would otherwise pass us by, had our phones not been by our side to document them. My selection included behind-the-scenes and inbetween moments of photoshoots I’ve worked on, beachscapes, perfect Pipe and Backdoor, the Eddie Aikau opening ceremony, and landmarks on Oahu.

What does it feel like to have such a turnout?

I was just ecstatic to see my family and friends in one room at once!

I’m able to do these things because of the support I’ve received by these people over the years. It’s flattering and I’m blessed to be able to do what I love as a job.

I also heard that you sold a bunch of shots as well. What’s that feel like to sell your photography?

This was the first time I’ve actually sold a “print” of one of my photographs. It made me happy to think that someone would desire to look at my photograph on a daily basis.

Can you talk about the venue?

The Human Imagination is a branch of the homegrown brand, in4mation. It’s more of a creative space than just a retail spot, which is no surprise coming from the in4mants, they are always pushing creative boundaries. Clothes are on rolling racks and can be pushed out of the way to reveal a prime gallery space which makes the store ideal in Chinatown. Word is really getting out about the shop and there has been a phenomenal response in the two months they have been officially open.

Do you have any more showings or specific plans for shooting this winter?

I’ll be designing a boardshort for the third Annual “Anti-Canvas” show put on by Hurley and Contrast Magazine at First Friday in December. This is an event that will benefit “Pow Wow Hawaii” and “Japan Relief” where several local and mainland artists are asked to design a pair of Hurley boardshorts that will be auctioned after a gallery showing of them. Other than that, I plan on continuing to capture moments every day and share them on my blog and website at BrooklynHawaii.com.

30

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

sections Shoots

f4.0 1/500 iso 100

p h o t o:

Tom Sanders This is a birds-eye view, above the chaos and danger at Pipe. —Tom Sanders

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

32

Haleiwa The Reef Hawaiian Pro November 12–23 • ASP 6-Star Event • $145,000 Often overshadowed by Sunset’s laurels and Pipe’s ferocity, it’s safe to say that Haleiwa doesn’t always garner the respect that she rightfully deserves. But ask anyone who’s ever been swallowed whole over dry reef in the Toilet Bowl section if Haleiwa’s not a world-class wave.

Ask anyone who’s fought the current till their arms went numb if Haleiwa’s got grit. Or better yet, you can take our word for it.

The first event of the esteemed trifecta, the Reef Hawaiian Pro historically kickstarts the winter season on the North Shore. As one of the last major qualifying events of the season, the Reef Hawaiian Pro not only draws on the elite seeking a Triple Crown title, but also the upcoming international surfers gunning for the late-season ratings points. Historically, we’ve seen the solidification of 34

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

lifelong dreams as well as heartache and painful defeat play out here. If there’s one thing we’d bet the farm on, it’s that drama will always flourish at Haleiwa.

As a playing field, Haleiwa is as varied as they come.

On a 3- to 4-foot swell, you’ll find the rights and occasional left producing enough ramps, sections, and open-faces to fill an entire Kai Neville film. Amid a solid 6- to 10-footplus swell, Haleiwa takes on an entirely different, and decidedly harrowing, feel. With sweeping currents, thick and angry lips, and crunching reef, Haleiwa has been the undoing of many a hopeful surfer. When the buoys strain, the venue can be a gut-check as much as any wave on the North Shore. And that’s precisely what makes the Reef Hawaiian Pro so special.

Heff

3 Things We Want to See at Haleiwa

The Miss Reef contest. Unfortunately, we missed it last year. From all accounts, and the numerous photos posted to our office, it was a sight to be seen. We’ve already scouted out our front-row seats for this year.

The Clash of the Legends. In a surreal turn of events, last year’s Clash of the Legends heats turned out to be the most entertaining heat of the comp. With the likes of Sunny, Curren, Tom Carrol and Occy all vying for a win like it was ’88, how could you not watch this heat? Throw in a touch of good-natured fireworks between Sunny and Curren and we’re already anticipating the sequel.

A Local Boy Take the Win. Remember how damn cool it was when Joel Centeio claimed a win at Haleiwa a few years back? We know, right, it was straight-up legendary! It was so awesome, we want to see it all over again.

Whether it’s Freddy P., Moody, Bam, Joel, or any of the other boys that began their love affair with surfing at Haleiwa, we’ll be beaming smiles until Easter if one of them can scalp a win.

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

35

Sunset

Vans World Cup of Surfing November 24–December 6 • ASP Prime • $250,000

Before Pipeline took on the moniker, Sunset Beach held the raw distinction of being surfing’s original proving grounds. Generations of surfers would gather on the sands, swallow their fears, and test their mettle at the expansive playing field that forged the reputation of surfers for nearly half a decade.

From Jeff Hakman to Gerry Elkerton to Pancho Sullivan, finding success at Sunset has proven to be a valuable chevron on the sleeve of any surfer worth his salt. If you want to honestly consider yourself a player on the North Shore, you have to have had the pleasure of staring down a 15-foot-plus West Bowl. You have to know the sting of the reef at the Point. You have to know the exhilaration of slipping through an outside tube. You have to know the unbridled glee of laying a proper rail. You have to know Sunset Beach.

At this iconic venue, Vans is taking control of the event in 2011 with the Vans World Cup of Surfing. As a PRIME event, this year you can rest easy knowing that a heavy lot of the world’s best will be in attendance. As one of the few heavy-water events slated for the season, Sunset offers up a truly unique opportunity for competitors to display their fortitude in waves of consequence.

When the opening heat horn trumpets the start of the event, you can expect to see many of the Hawaiians excel at the event. Historically, the surfers with the most experience have fared well FEAR IN THE EYES OF THE COMPETITION. Surfing Sunset is supposed at Sunset, while those to be rattling. Your heart should thump as you make your way out breaching the venues to the channel. That’s what makes it such a special locale. From trenches for the first time the tried and tested to the upstarts, Sunset’s infamous West Bowl have faltered. Look to the sets refuse to discriminate with clean-up sets commonplace on a likes of Pancho Sullivan solid swell. and other North Shore standouts to stand tall.

The Next Generation Embrace the Peak. In the past decade, Sunset has taken a backseat to places like Off the Wall, Rocky Point, and Pipe when it comes to being courted by the youth.

This needs to end. Granted, we’re as big of a fan of a huge punt as the next guy, but this is Hawaii, people. Grab your gun, check yourself, and go get a bomb.

3 Things We Want to See at Sunset

36

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

A Maxing Swell. Although Sunset can be downright delightful at 4 feet, it’s the bone-splitting power that brings us to our feet. As we alluded, Sunset has an underdeveloped reputation—a fact that makes it all the more pleasurable to see terror in the eyes of those unsuspecting competitors when the reefs start spitting fury.

Tom Sanders

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

37

Pipeline

Billabong Pipe Masters December 8 –20 • ASP World Tour Event • $425,000 There’s no refuting Pipeline’s sacred place in the pantheon of surfing’s most revered locales. From those daring few surfers that broke figurative ground and threw caution to the wind to dance with one of the most harrowing waves on the planet, to Gerry Lopez to Andy Irons, our infatuation with Pipeline’s luster will never fade.

As the final stop on the 2011 World Tour as well as the Triple Crown, the Billabong Pipe Masters has become—and will always be—a peak moment in professional surfing. In years past, the Pipe Masters has played host to some of the sport’s most dramatic and iconic moments. From Tom Carrol’s snap heard round the world to the famous high-5 between Kelly and Machado to the unforgettable final between Kelly and AI, year in and year out the Pipe Masters makes surf history.

Although it’s still far too early in the season to make any definitive calls, there’re a few statisticians envisioning a fight for the world title coming down to Pipe. Couple that with a clean 8- to 10-foot swell, and we’re looking at rewriting the history books.

38

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Latronic

3

Things We Want to See at Pipe Another All-Women’s Heat. There’s no denying that the all-women specialty heat held at last year’s Pipe Masters drew some critics before the ladies hit the water.

Five minutes into the heat, and all naysayers had been silenced. The girls proved that they have what it takes to tackle Pipe. Now we can’t wait to see the sequel.

A Wildcard Win. With the World Tour having to do battle with a plethora of Pipe specialists, fireworks always abound. This year, we’re betting on the dark horses to be standing tall over the World Tour come the event’s end.

Big, Nasty Pipe. In the last few years, the Pipe Masters haven’t produced the breed of perfection we’d hoped for. With any luck, this year we’ll be standing on the scaffolding screaming in glee as Second Reefers roll through.

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

39

40

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Baeseman

Moments from impact, Tom Dosland forgoes his craft and decides to take his luck with the reef.

There are moments in surfing that undoubtedly speak to all of us. Positive moments. We’ll smile and hoot in unison as we witness someone thread through a nearly unmakeable tube or stomp a stratospheric punt. But there’s also another darker side of surfing that whispers to us as well. It’s gritty, dirty, and is seldom acknowledged. Simply put: We live for the terror.

We may cover our joy with feigned shrieks of terror as we watch someone cartwheel down the face of a 15 footer, but inside, we’re all grinning. It’s what we’ve secretly been awaiting with bated breath. Yes, there’s a very real part of us that takes pleasure in the misfortune of others. And it can’t be denied—the Germans even have a word for it: “schadenfreude”—because it’s truly in every last one of you. In this feature, we’re forgoing the five-section tubes and flawless aerials and instead are paying homage to surfing’s darker side. Because in the end, we know it’s what you really want to see.

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

41

Although we may have screamed for his safety, we also grinned as we watched Shane Dorian tumble into an aquatic oblivion.

42

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Latronic

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

43

44

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Heff

Baeseman

Dave Baker

I confess: I find it necessary to leave you now and then for another break. After all I’m only human.

Clockwise from left: Liam McNamara, brushing the face of the reaper; Let it bleed; Coco Ho, preparing for the guillotine.

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

45

46

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Ells

Anthony Walsh, descending into another level of hell.

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

47

10 The

Most Influential

Hawaiian Surfers Duke Kahanamoku

1

As the face of modern surfing, it should come as no surprise that Duke Kahanamoku tops our list as the most influential Hawaiian surfer ever.

Born on August 24, 1890, Duke was a true waterman before the term even existed. Whether it was his accomplishments as a surfer, swimmer, or general ambassador of Aloha, Duke’s place in the pantheon of surfing greats remains unquestionable.

With the sands and reefs at Waikiki acting as his stomping grounds, Duke worked as a beachboy in his early years with his characteristic charm, spreading the joys and virtues of surfing to the visiting masses. The son of a Honolulu policeman and one of nine children, Duke became the face of surfing for the early part of the 20th century. As a young man, Duke’s prowess in the water grew worldwide attention when, in 1914, the young Hawaiian traveled to Australia’s Freshwater Beach and put on a clinic. Surfing on a board he personally shaped while in Australia, Duke drew the collective breath of the amassed crowd when he rode tandem with a woman named Isobel Latham, making her the county’s first surfer. In the ensuing years, Duke would take surfing across the world as he put on displays everywhere from New Jersey to the West Coast.

Although his reputation as a surfer was immense, Duke was also a world-class swimmer. In 1912, after setting numerous world records, Duke earned his first Olympic gold medal. In 1920, he went onto claim yet another Olympic gold and would follow up in 1924 with a silver. As his reputation in the water grew abroad, Duke became an icon at home where he was given the title of honorary Sheriff in Honolulu in 1936.

Looking back today, there’s no arguing that Duke changed surfing forever. Through his accomplishments in the water and unyielding aloha, the sport grew worldwide attention and set the foundation for what it is today. —Jeff Mull

48

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Dan Merkel / A-Frame

2

Eddie Aikau

As one of the preeminent Hawaiian surfers of the 1960s and ’70s, Eddie Aikau was regarded for his grace, talent, and aloha long before his heroic demise. Born in 1946 to the son of a truck driver on Maui, Eddie first learned to surf on the Valley Isle before his family made the trek to Oahu to plant new roots in 1959. With Walls and Queens acting as a stomping ground for him and his brother Clyde, Eddie became infatuated with the sport as a teenager and worked at the Dole Cannery to save enough money to pay for boards. In 1967, a young Eddie Aikau broke out to the surfing world with standout performances at solid Sunset and Waimea Bay. By 1968, with a reputation as one of Hawaii’s most adept waterman, Eddie became the lead North Shore lifeguard where he saved countless lives from Haleiwa to Sunset.

As time passed, Eddie’s prowess in heavy Hawaiian surf become the stuff of legends and in 1977, Eddie claimed the prestigious Duke Classic contest. In 1978, while aboard the Hokulea—a boat modeled after an ancient Hawaiian voyaging canoe that retraced the paths of early Polynesians—tragedy struck. The vessel developed a leak and Eddie made the courageous choice to paddle for help. He was never seen again. In his honor, the surfing community now holds the most esteemed event in big-wave surfing, The Eddie. —Jeff Mull F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

49

Tom Servais / A-Frame

10 The

Most

50

3

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

Andy Irons

Raw, unfiltered, supremely talented, and unequivacally dynamic, Andy Irons’ refusal to hold back in and out of the water gained him legendary status in the surfing world. Growing up in the quaint town of Hanalei on Kauai’s north shore, from an early age, Andy displayed the talent and tenacity necessary to become the world champion that he was. An integral figure in one of surfing’s most interesting generations, Andy—along with brother Bruce—quite literally took surfing to new levels both in the air, on rail, and in the tube throughout the late ’90s and 2000s. An inspiration to watch freesurfing, Andy was also equally adept in the jersey and took home and astounding three world titles to prove it.

Whether it was dismantling a playful beachbreak with this characteristic no-holds-barred style or standing tall in a behemoth tube, Andy could truly do it all. Not without his demons, Andy was often candid and wore his heart on his sleeve, a trait that endured him with the population and forged him a reputation as the people’s champion. Aside from an accolade of individual competitive wins, Andy will be remembered for being able to unhinge Slater’s lock on competitive surfing when no one else could, thus creating the greatest rivalry in surfing’s history.

Having passed away last November of a heart attack, the surf world is still in mourning for Andy. But through it all, his legacy continues and as the adage goes, legends never truly die. —Jeff Mull

4

Gerry Lopez

Dan Merkel / A-Frame

Arguably the most stylish surfer of his era, Gerry Lopez built himself a reputation for taming Pipeline in the late 1960s and ’70s. Synonymous with style, Lopez took on the moniker “Mr. Pipeline” and refused to look back as he ushered Pipeline into a new dimension.

From his beginnings on the South Shore, Lopez attended the prestigious Punahou School in Honolulu and worked his way up the surfing ladder to become a dominant force on the North Shore. Although he originally held intentions of becoming an archetict while studying at UH Manoa, as his love affair with Pipe blossomed, Lopez began to build an entirely different type of house on the North Shore with a foundation structured on poise and commitment in the tube.

With his trademark nonchalance, Lopez’s approach to the barrel at Pipeline truly redefined tuberiding and ushered in an era at Pipe that saw surfers sitting deeper and taking off later than ever. To boot, with two Pipeline Masters wins and four final appearances, his contest record dictates his dominance at Pipe as well. With his “cat-like” crouch in the tube or the infamous slide-slip drop, it can’t be denied that Lopez casually set the pace for the modern era. Whether it was Pipeline, G-land, or Uluwatu, his grace in and out of the barrel has been studied and mimicked for years, yet hardly replicated.

Lopez has spanned a career in and out of the water with his surfing talents where he doubled as a shaper, starting Lightning-Bolt Surfboards in 1971, which at the time became the board of choice in every pro’s quiver. Lopez also dabbled in some acting, with appearances in films like Big Wednesday, North Shore, and Conan the Barbarian. (Yes, the one with Arnold Schwarzenegger.)

Through it all, Lopez will forever be known as Mr. Pipeline. Whether he’s living in Maui or in the hills of Oregon where he now resides, the title should—and will always be—reserved for him alone. Ask any of the standouts today at Pipeline, be it Jamie O’Brien, Bruce Irons, or even John Florence, who they look up to, and Gerry’s name will always be in the mix.

No matter how deft the tuberider, Lopez will always hold the distinction as the man who trailblazed a new path forward at Pipe. —James Stone

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

51

5

Laird Hamilton

When the mainstream populace conjures up a vision of a surfer, it typically looks something like Laird Hamilton. As a matter of fact, it is Laird Hamilton. With the exception of Slater, it could be argued that Laird is the most famous surfer alive today. From his appearance as Lance Burkhart in the surf cult film North Shore, to taming Teahupoo in the early 2000s, to his American Express commercials and pioneering tow surfing and Stand Up Paddle surfing, the impression Laird has made on surfing is indelible.

Raised on the North Shore of Kauai, Laird spent his youth saturated in the perfection that is the Garden Island. With the esteemed surfer/master shaper Billy Hamilton acting as a father, by the time Laird was a teenager, he had established himself as one of the preeminent young talents of his era. As Laird aged, he continued to redefine the possible in surfing, both at Jaws where he and fellow chargers introduced the sport to the Jet Ski as well as his infamous Oh My God ride in Tahiti. In addition to his uncanny ability in the water, Laird’s also worked extensively as a model and was voted as one of People Magazine’s 50 most beautiful people in 1996. Currently married to acclaimed volleyball player Gabriel Reese, Laird is still actively towing into waves and furthering the sport today. —Jeff Mull

10 The

Probably one of two surfers right now, vying for the title of most “recognizable” against the likes of Laird Hamilton and Kelly Slater is Bethany Hamilton. The Kauai native with a truly inspirational story was born on February 8, 1990. Only a year into her twenties and she’s already accomplished so much at such a young age. From an early age, Hamilton showed her skill in the water, competing in her first contest, the Rell Sunn Menehune event on Oahu at the age of 8. Hamilton took home top honors in both the short and longboard divisions. Her skill and affinity for the ocean and surfing had only just begun.

As we all know, Hamilton was attacked by a tiger shark while surfing on Kauai at age 13 that resulted in the loss of her arm. A mere month after the attack, Hamilton was back in the water, following her dream to become a professional surfer. She was not going to let her injury keep her from competing with the best female surfers in the world. Prior to Hamilton, if you asked any surfer how they would carry on with that sort of an accident, they would tell you, “It’s impossible.”

Well, Hamilton surely proved them wrong. It wasn’t just the surf world and media that latched onto Hamilton’s triumphant return to the water, her success story has reached an international level like no

52

F R E E S U R F MAG A ZIN E.CO M

Scott Aichner / A-Frame

6

Bethany Hamilton

Noah Hamilton

Most

other. She truly has become, a house-hold name, she’s the first person that comes to mind when the general public thinks of the surf world, and rightfully so.

After her recovery, Hamilton continued to compete as an amateur, and in 2007, she accomplished one of her life long dreams of becoming a professional surfer. Since then, she’s had good results on the women’s World Qualifying Series tour and is part of a new group of girls ready to storm onto the ASP Women’s World Tour.

Hamilton’s story was turned into an autobiography in 2004 entitled Soul Surfer, and since then has been made into a major motion picture of same title. Her story and success through tragedy has been an inspiration to many. From her beginnings as a young competitive surfer from Hawaii, Hamilton has grown to be a great role model for young and old alike. Her tragic accident was overshadowed by her determination and perseverance. Bethany Hamilton’s hard work has led to what is, and what will be for a long time, a fruitful career as a surfer, and an inspiration to all. —James Stone

7

Rell Sunn

As a competitive surfer, Rell Sunn stood at the height of her career reaching number three in the world twice. Sunn’s competitive success was easily overshadowed by the effect she had out of the water, with her multitude of contributions to the community and

Jeff Divine

the surf world alike.

The annual Rell Sunn Menehune contest held on the West Side of Oahu dates back to the year 1976 and set out to give less-privileged kids from Oahu and the Outer Islands a chance to surf in a friendly, competitive environment. In addition to holding contest for local kids, Sunn worked to get many up-andcoming surfers the equipment they needed to pursue their dreams. She made sure that money would not be a barried for many keiki from the West Side. Sunn played an influential role in the likes of some very highly touted surfers such as Johnny Gomes, Sunny Garcia, and a slew of others. Through it all, Sunn was always there to steer them in the right direction.

In 1983, Sunn, was diagnosed with cancer and for the next decade-and-a-half she struggled with the disease while still surfing through the better part of the treatment process. It was her personality to never let this diagnosis damper her spirits. Sunn’s bright outlook on life and helping others was not going to be sidelined by anything.

Sunn’s battle with cancer reached an end in January of 1998 when she passed away. Thousands of family, friends and adoring fans gathered at Makaha to celebrate Sunn’s life and spread their own little bit of her aloha spirit. Today, her spirit lives on through the countless lives that she touched, along with the Rell Sunn foundation that provides scholarships and programs like the Aloha Jam. ­—James Stone

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

53

8

Fred Hemmings

Fred Hemmings’ career bears a lengthy list of titles, including world champ, champion paddler, marathon competitor, the “father of organized surfing,” and perhaps most importantly, Hawaii state senator. To be blunt, Hemmings’ list of achievements over the course of the last fifty years are simply astounding.

As a competitive surfer, Hemmings, was at the top of the burgeoning new contest circuit in the 1960s where he won the Makaha International as a junior in 1961 and `63, along with the men’s division in 1964 and `66. But by far, the most acclaimed win of his career was at the World Championship in Puerto Rico in 1968 where he took the maiden title of the first world champion. Along with his major competitive wins as a surfer, he was consistently a finalist in prestigious events like The Duke Kahanamoku Surfing Classic and the Haliewa Sea Spree.

As Hemmings’s career in the surf world progressed, he began to take on a role that steered the sport into the realm of professionalism.

It was clear that Hemmings wasn’t going to sit aside and watch the sport of surfing teeter off into oblivion without an organized contest circuit or association. He took it into his own hands, and with the help of a few others, started the International Professional Surfers Organization that became a precursor to the ASP. As the unofficial “Father of organized surfing” Hemmings, took on the role of contest director for almost all major professional events in Hawaii during the late ’70s and through to the `80s. Hemmings’ accomplishments were not overlooked as he was inducted into the International Surfing Hall of Fame in 1991, along with the Hawaii State Sports Hall of Fame in 1998.

Hemmings work went well beyond the surf world he was elected to a senate seat in the 2000 and served as the Republican Minority Leader in 2002. How many senators can say they’ve surfed maxing Waimea and paddled the Molokai Channel right before they chime in on tax reform? —James Stone

9

Shane Dorian

Batel Shimi

A man of unyielding grit, the Big Island’s Shane Dorian is as close to fearless as any man on this earth. From his humble beginnings on the Big Island, Shane made the pilgrimage from the lava-toned peaks on Hawaii Island to the studio lighting on the North Shore. Along the way, he felt into step with the Momentum Generation and changed the face of surfing forever.

As a young man, like so many of his talented counterparts, Shane joined the World Tour at the first opportunity and proceeded to slug it out with the best of them. But through it all, something felt amiss.

Something about basing his life around heat horns instead of swell charts didn’t sit quite right with Shane and in 2004, he left to the tour to focus on freesurfing.

It was then that Shane came into his own. Among waves that would make most men tremble, Shane found sure footing. This was his calling. In the ensuing years, Shane took the world by storm and has practically worn a hole on the winner’s podium at the XXL awards.

Today, as Dorian pushes into his 40s, he looks steelier than ever. In his latest, hard-charging chapter Shane has pioneered new frontiers on the ski. But most recently, it’s been Shane’s achievements at Jaws where we opted to ditch the ski in favor of paddling into some of the heaviest surf ever recorded. From all accounts, Shane appears ready to keep rewriting the history books in big-wave surfing for the next decade. —Jeff Mull

54

F R E E S U R F MAG A ZIN E.CO M

Dan Merkel / A-Frame

10

Larry Bertlemann

10 The

Known for his innovation, style, and reckless approach Larry Bertleman pushed surfing into new realms in the 1970s/ Synonymous with anything related to what we now call “progressive surfing,” Bertlemann took it in his own hands to rewrite the manual on accepted surfing. While your average surfer was riding nothing short of a 9'0", Bertlemann was busy working with shapers like Ben Aipa to create boards below the six-foot mark for this new radical style of surfing.

Born in Hilo, Bertlemann moved to Oahu with his family at age 11 and quickly took refuge in and round the South Shore. After casually finding a 9'6" in the “bushes” and breaking it in half a month later, Bertlemann just slapped a fin on the back of his now broken board, and voila, he had a shortboard!

Thanks to his affair with the ocean and surfing, Bertlemann decided to “focus” primarily on his surfing, dropping out of school after his 8th grade graduation. Bertlemann tasted some early competitive success at the 1973 U.S Championships, taking top honors. Going against advice from long-time shaper, mentor and friend, Ben Aipa, Bertlemann turned pro.

As an avid skateboarder, Bertlemann envisioned taking his land act on a skateboard into the water to draw similar lines on a wave as he would on his skateboard. His “visualization” is something he claimed set him apart from other surfers in his day. He credits any lack of progress in his earlier days to the poor equipment selection at the time, or the lack of a “performance” board. With the help of the aforementioned Ben Aipa, he and Bertlemann worked together to develop the precursor to our standard shortboard. They created boards under 6'0" with wide hips, swallow and stinger tails, that gave Bertlemann the ability to go where he wanted to on a wave. Aipa and Bertlemann’s progress in the shaping room set the standard for what’s been commonly accepted as modern performance surfing. Bertlemann was doing turns where other surfers were looking for an exit. I’m sure you’ve heard the now famous skateboard term, “Bert-Slide,” but have you any idea where legendary skateboarders like Tony Alva or Stacy Peralta got the inspiration? Yes, even the best skateboarders at the time looked to Bertlemann for inspiration, hence calling their tail-slide turns on their skateboards “Berts.” Bertlemann crossed over to not only inspire surfers, but skateboarders alike. His career spanned its share of highs and lows, but the progressive surfing historian buffs always know to credit Larry Bertlemann as an innovator of radical progressive surfing.

—James Stone

Most

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

55

56

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Bruno Lemos

A

P

E

R

T

U

R

E

After weeks of closely monitoring the much-hyped swell, Teahupoo caught fire for a day that will live on in surfing’s collective memory forever. Nathan Fletcher, making history.

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

57

58

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Heff

Heff Heff

Clockwise from top: Bowls three ways. Bouy 4, straining; Landon McNamarra, slotting; Zeke Lau, sliding.

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

59

60

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

Quincy Dein

Patrick McLauphlin, riding the train at Maalea.

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

61

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Heff

62

Quincy Dein Quincy Dein

Clockwise from left: Randall Paulson, off the path. Albee Layer, standing up for summer; Ola Eleogram caressing an open face.

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

63

64

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

Ehitu Keeling

Everything’s bigger on the Big Island, just ask Lahiki Minamishin.

Pau Hana

Coots

Wyatt Taubman

Kauai surfers like Keala Kennelly, Dylan Goodale, Evan Valiere, Stephen Koehne and others placed their support behind the new Flo Water station in Chin Young Marketplace in the heart of Hanalei, Kauai.

Off the bottle

Wyatt Taubman Wants to Put an End to Plastic Freesurf: Can you talk about yourself and your background?

Wyatt Taubman: I grew up on the North Shore of Kauai for the first 18 years of my life. When I wasn’t at school I was surfing, fishing, camping and just generally living close to nature. Being surrounded by such natural beauty gave me a deep appreciation and respect for the environment and instilled in me a strong desire to make this planet a better place. I want future generations to be able to experience what I’ve experienced and continue to experience. Whether this is possible or not I can’t say but I’m an optimist and will always pursue this vision.

FS: Where did the idea for Flo Water come from?

WT: After I finished High School on Kauai I went to college in San Diego where I focused on Environmental Studies and also Minored in Economics. Environmental Studies can get pretty depressing because there are just so many serious environmental issues going on around the world. When I started learning about the plastic water bottle pollution crisis, though, I was completely blown away. It’s been estimated that around 29 billion plastic water bottles are purchased every year in the U.S. and only around 17 percent are recycled, which means 24 billion plastic water bottles are thrown out every year in the U.S. This, obviously, adds a ton pressure on already overcrowded landfills. But the question is how many bottles even end up in the landfill to begin with? Let’s face reality here: Who, as a surfer or beachgoer, hasn’t seen a plastic water bottle on the beach or in a beach parking lot before?

66

F R E E S U R F MAG A ZIN E.CO M

Most people have heard that the Pacific Ocean Garbage Patch that’s estimated to be about three times the size of Texas and is thought to be composed of around 80 percent plastic. Then there’s the fact that bottled water is derived from oil, the same substance that’s extracted from the ground to produce the gasoline that runs our cars is also used to produce plastic water bottles. We all know what can happen when the oil extraction process goes wrong. That was pretty blatantly demonstrated with the recent Deep Horizon oil spill disaster in the Gulf of Mexico.

Then when plastic water bottles are finally filled with water they are usually transported all over the country if not the world in boats and cars that emit CO2 and other air pollutants before they end up in a store’s refrigerator. And after all is said and done, they are purchased by the consumer for a price that’s two times higher than what we pay for gasoline and the most ridiculous part of all is that much of this extraordinarily expensive bottled water is simply filtered tap water.

So bottled water is a serious problem. When I learned all this, I immediately switched to using a reusable water bottle but was then faced with another issue. Where could I refill my bottle when my reusable ran low? At the time I was filling up at drinking fountains, bathroom sinks, and hoses if I could find them. I didn’t really like filling at those locations but I wasn’t about to buy bottled water. I decided that I’d rather dry out to the point of a prune than buy bottled water in the U.S. and I knew that most of my friends felt the same way. Not long after I began using a reusable, I ran into a friend at a campus store. This friend was and still is a very eco-minded person but was buying a plastic bottle of water. I remember giving her some guff and I remember her telling me that she Continued on page 68

VANS TRIPLE CROWN

IS RIghT OuTSIdE OuR bACkdOOR. There’s one North Shore. And there’s one resort on it. Trek to the village of the Vans Triple Crown. Whether you’re a waterman, wave watcher or wader, you’ll be at the epicenter of set after set of activities, events and adventures. So set up base camp where the “7-Mile Miracle” begins, and the lineup is endless.

rates from

$189 /NIghT *

CRASh hERE

Call 866.827.5321 or visit turtleBaysurf.Com

K aH u K u , oaHu, HaWai i

Valid 11/10-12/22/11. Based on availability. Does not include taxes or resort fee. Other restrictions may apply.

*

SURF THE STREETS

FRONT TRUCK ROTATES 360° PUMP FOR SPEED TURN ON A DIME WWW.SURFSKATE.COM

Pau Hana

Continued from page 66

hated buying plastic water bottles but just couldn’t drink unfiltered tap water. This was in my Junior year of college about three years ago and it was at that point that I new I had to create “Reusable Water Bottle Refill Stations” that dispensed the best tasting, highly filtered and chilled drinking water if I was going to get the general public to switch to reusables and ultimately end plastic water bottle pollution.

FS: And where do you see it going in the coming months?

WT: Since my first Flo Water station went in on Kauai about nine months ago, Flo Water has made substantial leaps of progress in its pursuit of a plastic water bottle-free Hawaii, U.S., and planet. Flo Water refill stations have been set-up at businesses and shopping centers on the North Shore of Kauai and many members of the community are embracing this new planet-saving concept. In about a month’s time, Flo Water stations will be at the University of Hawaii and at Iolani School on Oahu. Other businesses and schools in Hawaii are expressing great interest in securing advanced Flo Water refill stations. Stainless steel Flo Water bottles are being sold at stores and surf shops in Hawaii.

We are also working on quickly expanding outside of Hawaii. Flo Water stations are needed everywhere all over the world.

I mean, why buy bottled water for $1.50 when you can drink better water for 25¢ that doesn’t pollute the planet or leach potentially harmful plastic chemicals into your drinking water? It’s simply a nobrainer. Save money, save the planet, and save your health all at the same time. Win, win, win.

In addition, Flo Water has one of most advanced filtrations systems consisting of a sediment filter, carbon filter, reverse osmosis, coconut carbon filter, and ultraviolet light and on top of that the water is refreshingly chilled! I can honestly say that Flo Water is best water I’ve ever tasted.

FS: You recently partnered with the Triple Crown, can you talk about what we can expect to see from Flo Water at the events?

WT: Yes, this is the most amazing opportunity for Flo Water but also for the Triple Crown of Surfing, Hawaii, the global surfing community, and professional sports in general to take a stance against bottled water.

Flo Water is helping the Triple Crown go “green” and there will be no bottled water at this year’s Triple Crown of Surfing. Instead, all the competitors and staff will be provided with a stainless steel Flo Water/ Vans Triple Crown of Surfing reusable water bottle manufactured by Flo Water. Flo Water will also have three Flo Water refill stations at each event so competitors, staff, and spectators can refill their reusable water bottles easily and conveniently with the best-tasting, five-times filtered, chilled drinking water. And Flo Water is setting up all the stations to provide free water for everyone at the Triple Crown.

This is going to really help to increase the awareness of the plastic water bottle pollution crisis and will definitely help to reduce the waste stream of billions of plastic water bottles. Our stations have bottle trackers so we will be constantly announcing how many plastic water bottles have been kept out of the landfill at the Triple Crown so make sure to follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/myflowater. We will also be giving out tons of free Flo Water bottles on Facebook during that time.

FS: What was the process like of starting your business?

WT: It’s been long, time consuming, and stressful but also invigorating, dynamic, and thrilling. It’s really been such a long process that it would take pages and pages to describe. To make a long story short I spent about three years pursuing a vision at all costs. After thousands of hours of unpaid work, months of sleeping on floors, couches, and carpets, dozens of extensive business plan drafts and research, graphic design work, contract negotiations, bank loans, and finally investors Flo Water and the end of plastic water bottle pollution was started.

For the last year and a half I’ve devoted every waking hour to Continued on page 70

kaleimaeole

handcrafted jewelry

Open 12 nOOn tO 9pm Daily

Earth friendly Fine Silver Sunrise Shells and other designs available online at

www.96712jewelry.com or at the

North Shore CouNtry Market Open Saturdays from 8 am - 2pm

Pau Hana

Continued from page 68

growing and developing Flo Water. There would be times when I knew the waves were good and I new that my friends were probably getting barreled but I was in front of a computer with computer eyes and a line up of empty coffees and Yerba Mate powering out whatever needed to be finished.

I didn’t pursue a career after college like a lot of friends. Instead I worked wherever had Wifi, which usually meant coffee shops and I worked for about 12-14 hours a day. Whenever I felt too exhausted to continue I would just think about doing something as epic as ending plastic water bottle pollution and I would find the energy to continue. I haven’t owned a bed in over a year and have lived out of a suitcase for just as long. I don’t know what I would have done if Starbucks didn’t exist. Because of Starbucks I have an office in every town of the U.S. with a desk, AC, music, and Internet and my only overhead is a large green tea a day.

FS: What’s been the most rewarding thing about the business so far?

WT: Well, seeing your vision really materialize overtime is an amazing experience. And knowing that every second committed to Flo Water is helping to reduce plastic water bottle pollution is also thrilling.

Educating students about the plastic water bottle crisis feels great. The support I get from family and friends has been so energizing and fun.

Securing milestones like the Triple Crown of Surfing really get’s me psyched. There’s been a lot of rewarding experiences along the way.

FS: How hard do you have to hustle to keep a business going?

WT: On January 4, I was launched into a whirlwind of work Continued on where page 7212-to

DIRTY DOG WET GLASS FURIOUS Available at The Eye Gallery in Kihei - Maui - 808 875-4466

North shore

Automotive & truck repAir Dependable service Gasoline or Diesel repair Domestic or Foreign Call Jeff 808 479-9081

057 Code: 53lour: BLACK Frame coL GREEN O P : ns Le

Continued from page 70 14-hour days were pretty standard, but in the last three weeks things have become increasing hectic and I’ve been powering 16-hour days.

It’s pretty insane but it’s also a lot of fun. For a while I was my own secretary, accountant, sales rep, service technician, manager, CEO, and founder. But things are changing quickly. I see the light at the end of the tunnel for this phase. The light is December 20. I’ll regroup after that and take Flo Water to the next level soon thereafter.

HICFree SunsetPlugs Pro For 27 years, the HIC Sunset Pro has been a harbinger for winter on the North Shore. More than just steeped in history, the 4-star event is sponsored by Vans this year is also the perfect venue for North Shore locals to test their mettle against some of the best surfers in the world.

Last year, we saw the likes of Maui’s own Billy Kemper standing tall on the podium. To boot, the winner of the HIC Pro is also granted a highly coveted slot in this year’s Triple Crown. The opening horn sounds on October 28, be sure to check Vans.com/Hicpro for the live webcast.

Wipeout: A few issues back, we profiled some of highly talented photographers. In the process, we made a mistake and said that Dave Homcy was the director of production on September Sessions. Our mistake, Dave.

Surf with a smile

Dr. John

Jones Dentistry

808 955 0058 1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814

BIKRAM YOGA - NORTH SHORE 19 CLASSES PER WEEK (call dor complete schedule)

67-208 Goodale Ave. Waialua, HI 96791 (In the Waialua Shopping Center behind Waialua Library) Phone 808• 637•5700 • www.bikramyogahawaii.com

AlA MoAnA

SurfboArdS South Shore’s newest Surf Shop

H Surfboards H Accessories H Paddleboards H Board Storage H Rentals H Ding Repair

H Custom Boards Designed and Shaped by BEN AIPA

Located 2 blks from Ala Moana Shopping Ctr & Ala Moana Beach. Look for the mural on our building

1160 Waimanu Street, Honolulu Hawaii 96814

(808)591-9283

www.alamoanasurfboards.com Open: 10am – 6pm, Sun 11am – 5pm, Closed Tues

spaghettini

6/9/06

3:28 PM

Page 1

The Finest Tobacco Accessories:

•

HOOKAHS

• Water Pipes • Detox • Cigars • Vaporizers • Awesome local glass • Tobacco Spoons & More!

• Personal Chef

Wendy Gorka chef/owner

808.220.2275

waialuasweets@gmail.com waialuasweets.com

• Meal Preparation • Catering • Gifts and Welcome Baskets ollow us for up to the minute farmer’s market locations.

Open Daily from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm In the heart of Haleiwa

637-0104

closeout See you next issue

As summer makes its annual march toward the horizon, we say goodbye to the hot season in the best way we know how. Here's Michael Ho, bidding adieu to Town one last time. Photo Baeseman

74

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

75

PHOTO: EPES/A-FRAME

trusted by

IanGentil