The vans Triple Crown of surfing
Free in Hawai‘i
Kalani Chapman Photo: Baeseman
a winter to remember Perfect pipe / roy powers and the year of the tiger / the world’s top juniors february V8#2 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM
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photo Daniel Russo Š2010, Vans Inc.
John Florence’s 106 SF is dressed up and ready to party Featuring a premium suede upper and ultra-lightweight waste-free vanslight Ž IM EVA outsole
Free Parking
There are certain moments that capture the very essence of surfing. They are as varied as the waves we ride, but when we see them, whether we are just beginners or seasoned pros, these images pull on our very soul. Here’s an offbeat set-up sure to whet your palette.
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Lemos
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SCAN ME WITH YOUR MOBILE
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V8#2 February 2011
34 Aperture 44 Da Hui’s Backdoor Shootout 52 The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing 58 The Ride of His Life The North Shore Done Right
Pipeline Puts Her Best Foot Forward for Grassroots Event Three Reasons Why the North Shore Remains Surfing’s Epicenter
Roy Powers Reflects on the Highs and Lows of 2010
Mike Ho gets what he's after.
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Spencer Suitt
Contents
probiotic
fruit
yogurt
Frieden
blends Contents V8#2 February 2011
10. F ree Parking: Greetings from the North Shore. Wish you were here!
Healthy and refreshing yogurt drinks.
that felt
good.
www.jambahawaii.com facebook.com/jambahawaii | twitter.com/jambahawaii
20. E d Note: We may be about 15 years behind the rest of the world, but the Internet just revolutionized surfing. ’Bout time. 22. Howzit: Catching you in the act…again. Cause we’re sneaky like that. Damn sneaky. 24. Shoots: An image sure to stop you in your tracks. 26. T he Year in Film: 2010 was a great year for surf movies. Here’s our list of what you should be watching. 28. W hat I’ve learned with Keanu Asing: He may not be old, but he’s wise. Hawaiian teenage prodigy Keanu Asing drops some old-fashioned wisdom on us. 30. S aving Sharks: Years in the making, the loophole is finally closed as a new law to save sharks from “finning” takes hold. 32. B etter than the Rest: The best young surfers crown a champion at the ASP World Junior Championships. 68. T he Wire: When Kai Barger’s not busy being one of Hawaii’s most promising young surfers, he saves people. 74. Pau Hana: Reflections from a North Shore lifeguard.
Jamba Trail Mix
V8#2 February
Kalani Chapman welcomes Pipe with open arms. Photo: Baeseman
Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter Editorial and Marketing Intern Gianna O’Brienh
Free Thinkers
Clark Carroll, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Ryan Kelly, Albee Layer
Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Bernie Baker, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock
Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Brandon Ells, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Ryan Gamma, Jeff Hall, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson
Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson
Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm. A product of Manulele, Inc. 2010
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Editor’s note rerooting the web
Surfing V. 1.5* Less than a year ago, Matt Meola was ready to admit defeat and throw in the towel. He was prepared to leave his ambitions of a career as a professional surfer behind him. Despite knowing that he could hold his own with anyone in the water, the 19-year-old from Maui remained anonymous in the eyes of the industry and the surfing public as a whole. His was an all-too-common story—that of a surfer dripping talent who, for some reason or another, simply failed to launch. Then things seemingly changed for Meola. With the click of a mouse and an upload to YouTube, Matt became an overnight sensation to surf fans the world over. On December 18, 2009, one of Matt’s supporting sponsors, Kaenon, posted a 3:18 highlight reel that went viral and sprang him into the spotlight. More than 100,000 impressions later Matt had been featured in a litany of media outlets and had signed a new sponsor. His path had changed. He was on the up. His career had been catapulted from the trenches to the stratosphere and it was all thanks to the Internet. The playing field has been evened. Couple the rise of mainstream social media (YouTube, personal blogging, Twitter, etc.) with surfing’s own brand of user-generated content (the Kustom Airstrike, Innersection, Surfline’s Wave of the Winter, etc.) and it’s become abundantly clear that surfing has entered a technological renaissance of sorts. Gone are the days when to make it as a pro you had to slog it out on the ’QS. There now exists a new, viral niche yearning to
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be filled. There is a new place in the surf world for men like Matt Meola, Chippa Wilson, and Flynn Novak. Times have changed. So what does this mean for surfing? Above all it means an even playing field. It aint cheap to chase the ’QS and you’d be hard pressed to find a pro surfer willing to bet his last paycheck that contests alone are a proper indicator of talent. Going out and collecting clips, on the other hand, can be extremely telling of a surfer’s Potential. If a surfer posts footage of himself only punting on right wedges, it won’t take long to reveal that he can’t pull in on his backside. Case in point: with the recent release of Innersection, the surfers with the most diverse set of waves and conditions seemed to shine the brightest. John Florence’s section ring a bell? Although surfing may be a decade and a half behind the rest of the world, when it comes to utilizing the Web as a platform to showcase the underground, we crossed the point of no return in 2010. Yes, traditional mediums will remain just as important as ever (I’m a firm believer in the future of magazines and their role to sift through the deluge of content out there), but it’s never been easier for a surfer with a gift in the water, a filmer, and an Internet connection to become The Next Big Thing. Of this much I’m sure. —Jeff Mull *If this topic caught your fancy, stay tuned for a full-feature and in-depth look into the rise of the Internet and professional surfing in our March issue.
MICAH MONIZ
Hawaii’s Biggest and Best Selection of Surf Gear ROCKY POINT
Photo: McGinnis
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sections
Random or regular, in or out of the water, like it or not, you were caught in the act. With FREESURF’s photo team on the hunt for Hawaii’s most candid moments, we’re going all paparazzi on you. It’s a small island and we’re on the lookout so there’s a good chance you’ll wind up on camera.
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Kirsten / ASP
1. Power skiing defined. 2. We’re pretty sure that there are better ways to even out a tan…just sayin’. 3. Meet the Sullivans. 4. Donavon Frankenreiter and Joe Green, proving that there’s no harm in harmonizing. 5. Myles Padaca, in pure form. 6. Imaikalani Devault and the Hawaiian salute. 7. Forget about owning a Mercedes or a BMW on the North Shore, an old bike gets the job done just fine. 8. No photos please.
Kirsten / ASP
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Paul Fisher
“Just as the sun was setting a storm began running down the Ko‘olaus making the rainbow and the whole evening just crazy magical. I remember just looking in at the city, adjusting my settings, lowering my shutter speed, and trying to get a high aperture. I just got sucked into the bowl, took a few on the head, and missed out on a few shots but it was worth it for this one.” —Paul Fisher
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www.localmotionhawaii.com
OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace
sections Stuff we Like
SIX from '10
Alt/Air EP
Local band Alt/Air provides a variety of songs ranging from instrumental lounge to amping electronic beats that help you get your modern surf-psych going. We're digging the secluding character of songs like “Reminisce” and “Outsider Looking In” which are perfect for relaxation, and when we're craving something more lively, we flip to "Faceless," a track that gets the heart rate going. *Alt/Air will drop their full-length album later this year. Make sure you pick it up. Your ears will thank you.
A Handful of Films from 2010 You've Gotta Watch
This season’s hottest surf movies premiered at the The North Shore Film Festival at the Hawaii Polo Club’s Mokuleia field. Here’s a look at this season’s sizzling screen favorites. Who Is J.O.B.? Raised by his wild Australian father, Mick O’Brien, on the North Shore of Oahu, Jamie has proven his domination as a world-class surfer and this is the up-close and personal story of an often misunderstood prodigy. Warts and all.
Vans SRPLS
When the Triple Crown was in town, we were privy to Vans’ new shoe, the SRPLS. These kicks are ridiculously comfy and feature recycled products, which is nice. Needless to say, when we’re not wearing slippers, we’re wearing these. And you know what, we’re so stoked on the SRPLS, we thought we’d give you, the reader, a pair. Nah, make that five. Here’s the catch. Flip back to our glorious cover, write a caption that makes us laugh, and email it to mull.jeff@ gmail.com. Winner gets five pairs of shoes. For more on the SRPLS, go to Vans.com
AY GIVEAW
Kicker Headphones HP541 The 5-star public rating speaks for itself when it comes to expecting a high-performance product, but for us it was the ability to take music that sounded average on many other headphones and transform it to our own personal ambiance of extravagant sounds that sealed the deal. There are no other headphones like the HP541. The most attractive features include their tonal accuracy, bass response, and insanely comfortable full-swivel ear cups. It’s listening to music like you’ve never done before. Go to Kicker.com for more info.
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Scratching the Surface Starring Julian Wilson, the Aussie some say will fill Slater’s shoes, Scratching the Surface was nominated for a number of categories at the Surfer Poll Awards including, Best Cinematography and Worst Wipeout.
Nixon's Shadow World Travel Backpack
Is there anything more disheartening than checking a bag at the airport? We think not.We came across Nixon’s Shadow World Travel backpack earlier this month and can’t stop singing its praises. We challenge you to find something that you need to store that won't fit in this backpack. It’s perfect for staying organized and houses everything you could possibly think of, including space for your laptop and wallet compartments. Find out more at NixonNow.com.
Super Natural
Want to be terrified in front of your screen? Super Natural features some of the largest and most powerful waves of the recent and epic 2009/2010 El Nino season.
Down With The Ship Big-wave Surfer Derek Dunfee, who broke his leg in 2008 in Tahiti, vowed to make a comeback in 2009. His triumphs and tribulations culminated in winning the Billabong XXL Award. This is his story.
Sea of Darkness After winning nine major awards across the globe this year in its festival tour, Sea of Darkness is a must-see for anyone interested in the early days of Indonesia where surfing perfect waves and smuggling drugs were the order of the day. This is by far the best surf documentary of the season.
High 5 Directed by Chris Cote, editor at Transworld Surf, High 5 features some of the most recent footage of the late Andy Irons. If you’re looking for AI in his element, this is the film for you.
sections
Keanu Asing Muses on the Past and Future FreeSurf: We heard that you tore up your ankle pretty bad last year. Can you talk about how you hurt it, the recovery period, and how it’s feeling now? keanu Asing: Yeah, it was pretty shocking. I was really bummed. But I was surfing Kewalos with Zeke Lau and Matty Costa. The waves were really fun and we were just having a blast with no one out. Then it started to pick up and get better and the rights had the best air sections. I was trying these slob-grab air reverses and I got a set and tried the hugest one and my foot rolled under me when I landed. Something had to give out and it happened to be my ankle. Turned out to be stretched ligaments and the doc said it was a hairline fracture but I don’t think it was. So I was supposed to be coming home for four days and then going to Tahiti but the waves got really fun and I just went for a surf and then I got hurt. So I had to cancel my Tahiti trip and just rehab my ankle. So the next day I flew out to California to meet Dr. Romine [a specialist doctor] because I know he’s a really good person to go see about these things. And it took about two to three weeks of just rehab almost every day. I wanted to get better before the New York comp got going. And I did; I got to compete. But it’s feeling better than ever now and I feel great. It’s really at 100 percent now. I almost think my other ankle hurts more now [laughs]. But I kind of always have something that really hurts and something going wrong. FS: So looking back on 2010, what were some of the highlights for you last year? KA: I would have to say when I got third at Sunset just because the year before I had a shocker and was really nervous and stuff. And this year, I had a really good feeling going into the comp and I felt like I had more confidence and more experience. And I would have to say the win at Newport was a highlight as well. It was like a seal-the-deal event to qualify for World Juniors. FS: And what about the lowlights? KA: Probably getting the injury was the biggest lowlight. It’s really hard to comeback and do well after you get injured. And getting back in the
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water is the hardest; just seeing everybody going hard makes you want to go hard. And you just can’t do it because you’re still in pain a little bit. So you just can’t really expect anything when you first get back in the water. I had a few shockers, like in the New York Pro Junior and the Japan WQS four star…it was just really frustrating. FS: You’ve had a really prosperous junior career. That being said, sort of looking toward the future, where do you want to be this time next year both competitively and as a freesurfer? KA: Yeah, this coming year I’m really going to try and push hard for more photo and video surf trips—that will be my main focus. That and to try and build my profile and stuff. But I really want to do well competitively. I want to qualify for the World Juniors and I really want to give it a go at the ’QS. FS: There’s been a lot of talk about how important having a presence online can be in making a young surfer’s career. Between blogs and things like Innersection, how important is it to you to build yourself online, and further, how long until we can start clicking on keanuasing.com? KA: Well like I said, I really want to try and build a good profile in the eyes of the surfing world and hopefully get more people to take notice of me, so when the time comes to make KeanuAsing.com or something, it would be done really well. I just don’t want to make something that people won’t check out and stuff so, when I make it, I want it to make it big. So everyone knows. FS: Lastly, sort of as a word of advice to others, what’s one thing in this world that you know to be true? KA: Well since I was young my dad told me to never give up in anything I did. When it knocks you down just get back up. And if you want to be the best, you got to work at it. You’re going to fall eventually but that doesn’t mean it’s over—you keep training, you keep kicking ass! You keep doing whatever it takes to be the best. That’s all I know how to do. I’ll always keep working to be the best the best that I can be.
Rima
What I know with keanu asing
sections Kalani Chapman
Ells
Whether we always admit it or not, each winter here at FREESURF we knight an individual with the title “Surfer of the Winter.” Although sometimes it’s a hard-lined pro who stole the show and our hearts at the Pipe Masters, we love nothing more than when the man of the season proves to be an unsung charger. And this year, the name that seems to be popping up the most is none other than Kalani Chapman. You’re a hard-charging hellmen, Kalani. And for that, we salute you.
Ron Artis’ passing left a hole in the North Shore community (see our story in the January issue). A stalwart member of the North Shore, there’s been an outpouring of support to uphold Artis’ memory and keep his legacy of creativeness and civic duty alive. Local artist Andrew Miller, AKA DrewToonz, created this piece as an homage to a friend and we enjoyed so much we felt we just had to share. Aloha Ron, we’ll never forget all that you gave us.
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An End to the Fin President Obama Signs Law that Ends Shark Finning in US
A few issues back, we reported that Kauai-based surf photographer and allaround good guy Mike Coots was on a mission to end shark finning. Coots, along with eight other shark attack survivors—some missing arms, others legs—met with members of Congress and the media in an effort to gain national awareness for The Shark Conservation Act, a bill that would help put an end to shark finning in US waters. After countless meetings, press releases, and petitions the Shark Conservation Act finally passed and was signed into law by President Obama. “I really couldn’t be happier right now. A lot of people worked very hard to get this bill passed and I think it can do a lot of good,” said Coots. “If I can bring more attention to the cause because I’m a shark attack survivor, then that’s a good thing. I’m just really stoked this bill finally passed.” Widespread and barbaric in nature, the PEW Environment Group estimates that 73 million sharks are killed each year for their fins alone. In most cases, the sharks are caught on long lines, pulled to the boat, have their fins hacked from their body, and are then dumped overboard to perish in the sea. It’s been a widespread belief that the demise of the shark populations could have horrific consequences on other marine life. As a growing middle class in China emerges, demand for shark fins has been on the rise. Traditionally, shark fin soup is reserved for the wealthy. With the passage of the Shark Conserveration Act, the bill has tightened loopholes in an already existing piece of legistlation that allowed the trade to continue. Shaun Heinrichs
Paying Homage to Ron Artis
sections Asp world junior championships
The Revolution of Evolution
photo: bishow
Kirsten / ASP
The Best Young Surfers Compete at the ASP World Junior Championships
“The average sunscreens just don't stay on long enough. It's nice to finally have a product that can keep up with me.” Mark Healey Made in the U.S.A
KALANI DAVID, MATT ARCHBOLD, CJ HOBGOOD, TYLER NEWTON, LIAM MCNAMARA
The evolution of surfing has seen the rise of champions, the loss of legends, the pro surfers, the free surfers, and the domination of the underdogs. The ASP World Junior Tour is the arena where recognition is established, where names are made and where the junior talent battles it out to leave us wondering if they are the next big thing. Starting in Bali, Indonesia with the Oakley World Junior Pro, the Australian duo Jack Freestone, 18, and Tyler Wright, 16, claimed their ground and walked home as winners. The 4- to 6-foot surf and prime tube conditions that prevailed set the mens’ final up to be a competitive heat with Dale Staples (zaf) claiming second against the Australian star. Next up: Narrabeen. The Billabong ASP World Junior Championship at North Narrabeen, Australia—the second and final stop on the inaugural ASP World Junior Tour—saw South Africa’s 17-year-old Bianca Buitendag take home the women’s title against French favorite Justine Dupont. Local girl and defending Billabong ASP World Junior champ Laura Enever scored the best wave of the contest with a 9.17, but Buitendag proved her talent in a display of lefthanders at the North Narrabeen break, earning the win. It was Frenchman Marc Lacomar, 20, who stole the show in the tension-filled Men’s World Junior final against fellow goofyfooter Nat Young. The anxiously anticipated final was run in 2- to 3-foot surf after two consecutive lay days, but was the epitome of the event and climaxed with a beaming Jack Freestone being crowned ASP Men’s Overall World Junior Champion. Alizee Arnaud, the 20-year-old French front-runner was crowned the ASP Women’s World Junior Champion in her last year as a junior, an achievement that marks the success of the rising star’s career. Arnaud pocketed a runner-up finish at the Oakley ASP World Pro Junior in Bali, third place at the Billabong ASP World Junior Championships in North Narrabeen, and was labeled by the ASP the most consistent surfer on the Women’s World Junior Tour. The 2011 ASP World Junior Tour won’t kick off ’till October in Indonesia and Brazil, but it’s already game on for all the young talent fighting through qualifying events, hoping to earn their spot on the upcoming tour and compete with the next generation of highperformance surfers. —G.O.
©2011 CASIO AMERICA, INC.
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Gabe Kling
Joel Centeio
www.gshock.com
a p e r t u r e
Just livin’ the dream...
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Heff
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Sion Milosky and a North Shore double wide.
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No matter how many times we’ve witnessed Shane Dorian in this scenario, seeing a man so completely in his element never gets old.
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Baeseman
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Heff
Dege O’Connell, upward momentum.
Ehitu Keeling
Keala Naihe, lofty ambitions.
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We’d like to tell you where this is, but we know better. Kaleo Patterson, remaining silent.
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Heff
If the full-rail carve came to signify the 90s, the frontside whip, as exemplified by Billy Kemper, has come to represent the modern era.
Heff
Epes
A heaving lip, a few dozen photogs in your way, and three feet of water below your feet: trust us, it aint easy for Kai Barger to look this cool at Pipe.
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backdoor Da Hui’s grassroots event Lights Up North Shore
John Florence Snags Historic Win by Gianna O’Brien
Reef McIntosh has single-handedly excelled the standards at Pipeline over the course of the last few years as much as anyone. Here's Reef at the Backdoor Shootout, breaking boundaries once again.
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solid northwest swell that produced 10- to 12-foot corduroy lines detonating in unison at Pipeline. Proving that this winter was his for the taking, Vans team rider Kalani Chapman took full advantage of the most harrowing waves of the day and earned himself a few more chevrons on his sleeve as he caught some of the most terrifying waves of the event. Proving that the Vans team was not to be underestimated, Nathan Fletcher also threw down the highest score of the event, which he snagged with one of the longest tubes seen for the day. Not to be outdone, Da Hui’s own charger and Pipe connoisseur Makua Rothman also proved just how knowledgeable and daring he is out at Pipe as he pulled into and emerged from a slew of bombs that drew the collective breath from the crowd on the beach. But in the end, it was John John’s event as the boy-wonder stood tall in the tube time and again. This just feels like the icing on the cake for me this winter,” said Florence. “I’m so stoked. I think I’m gonna be taking my friends out tonight for sure.” Big shout out to Da Hui for putting on such an amazing event.
Baeseman
merging from the crowd with a grin that stretched from ear-to-ear, 18-yearold golden boy John Florence claimed the first place win at Da Hui’s Backdoor Shootout, taking home the $40,000 prize and all of the respect that accompanies a win of such magnitude. Winning Da Hui’s Backdoor Shootout is the feather in the cap of any surfer, but with the stellar conditions that swarmed the competitors for this year’s event, John John’s win was made all the more special. Grassroots to the bone, the friendly character of this homegrown contest meant there was no brutal battle for the lineup, just four-man heats lasting 35 minutes and a no-elimination style that tamed the competitive spirit of the riders. To boot, this was an event for the best Pipe surfers in the world to strut their stuff and wasn’t marred by the typical regulations that accompany an ASP event. The morning of the final gave birth to a
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Not to be outdone, Da Hui’s own charger and Pipe connoisseur Makua Rothman also proved just how knowledgeable and daring he is out at Pipe as he pulled into and emerged from a slew of bombs that drew the collective breath from the crowd on the beach.
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Latronic
Makua Rothman has been a staple on the North Shore for decades now. Always on our radar, Makua has come into his own over the past few years. Whether he's charging Pipe or Outer Reefs the world is taking note.
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Sequence: Baeseman
Clockwise from this page above: Koa Rothman, following in the family business; John Florence, cashing in; Mark Healey, committed as they come.
Rock
Baeseman
Baeseman
(Opposite) The 2010-2011 winter has given rise to John Florence like no other. Yes, he’s taken on the moniker as the Golden Child in the past, but we’re pretty sure he’s operating on a level all his own now.
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Cestari / ASP
Kirsten / ASP
Cestari / ASP
Kirsten / ASP
Kirsten / ASP
Cestari / ASP
The vans triple crown
o f su r fin g
Cestari / ASP
Kirsten / ASP Kirsten / ASP
Cestari / ASP
Kinsan
Heff
Cestari / ASP
a Showdown at haleiwa The Reef Hawaiian Pro and Cholo’s Women’s Hawaiian Pro
Although they’re separated by thousands of miles of open ocean, it’s become apparent that Coolangatta, Australia and Haleiwa must share some sort of common lineage. This year, the quaint Aussie surf hub once again produced winners at the Reef Hawaiian Pro in the forms of Joel Parkinson and Steph Gilmore. Parko, 29, fresh off a nauseatingly gruesome foot injury and a six-month hiatus from competition, won the Reef Hawaiian Pro without so much as breaking a sweat. “The foot feels good. I didn’t think it was that good, but it feels good now,” said Parkinson who won back-to-back Vans Triple Crown of Surfing championships this past season. “I couldn’t ask for a better place to
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Cestari / ASP
Kirsten / ASP
By Daniel Ikaika Ito
Joel Parkinson
comeback after a long injury. It’s a lot easier to surf when you have a wave that pushes you hard. It’s really hard to surf on small little waves so it feels really good to be back in Hawaii.” Parko was back and looking more deadly than ever in a jersey. Stephanie Gilmore never left and dominated the Cholo’s Women’s Hawaiian Pro. Throughout the wave-starved final, where there were only three waves ridden after 23 minutes, Parko was the only surfer that could find three good rides in the heat. He won the 6-star Prime Qualifying Series event with a twowave total of 15 out of a possible 20 points. The 29-year-old Aussie shredded the head-high, mush burgers at Ali’i Beach Park like it was
Snapper Rock with a light Noreaster. Parkinson wasn’t the only winner at Haleiwa. Six-time Triple Crown winner Sunny Garcia, 40, came from behind to win the Bud Light Lime Reef Clash of the Legends where a host of icons threw on jerseys once again. Edging out Tom Carroll, Occy, and Tom Curren, Sunny was the clear winner of the throwback event. “It was inconsistent and I knew I got lucky because I got three set waves and those guys didn’t get any,” said Garcia who won the ASP world title in 2000. “After I got the first one I figured I didn’t have anything to lose and I paddled them deep. The luck of the draw I just got all the waves and those guys didn’t get the scores.”
It’s About Tim e
Coco Ho
Steph Gilmore
Cestari / ASP
Stepping up big to support women’s surfing, Cholo’s Restaurant in Haleiwa showcased just how much they support the sport when they became the frontline sponsor of the Cholo’s Women’s Hawaiian Pro. Ever a standout, Aussie sensation Stephanie Gilmore combed the playing field halfway through the final, smashing the competition with a two-wave total of 17.77. She admitted that Haleiwa suits her style of surfing well. “It’s more about long drawn-out turns and sort of reading the wave really well,” said Gilmore of her approach to the final. “I just enjoy righthanders of any kind, and I just felt comfortable out there.” It was hard to believe that a Hawaiian Pro victory eluded Gilmore in the past as her surfing looked tailor made for the venue. She surfed fluidly, throwing down a big first maneuver and utilizing the entire wave. Gilmore fell only once during the final, and put an exclamation point at the end of every ride. “For me it was about getting in a good first turn and then when you hit that flat section you need to really emphasize that roundhouse cutback when you make that rebound,” said Gilmore. “It’s all about milking the wave and trying to use the whole lot of it top to bottom.”
Cestari / ASP
Cestari / ASP
Julian Wilson
Cestari / ASP
Dusty Payne
Kirsten / ASP
Joel Centeio
Kirsten / ASP
The Cholo’s Women’s Hawaiian Pro
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Kirsten / ASP
Ne w Blo o d at Su ns et
The Men’s and Women’s O’Neill World Cup of Surfing
Raoni Monteiro
Two new champions were crowned at the second jewel of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Brazil’s Raoni Monteiro, 28, won the O’Neill World Cup of Surfing and Australia’s Tyler Wright, 16, won the O’Neill Women’s World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach. Wright, who placed third at the Cholo’s Women’s Hawaiian Pro earlier, was also awarded the female Triple Crown Rookie of the
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Year presented by JN Automotive. The young Australian saved her best surfing for the final, where she posted the highest scoring ride of the event: a 9.57 out of a possible 10 points. Furthermore, she had the entire field needing a combination of scores within the first five minutes of the final. “I just really had nothing to lose in these events I just went in there to have fun and
Kirsten / ASP
Kirsten / ASP
Raoni Monteiro
Kammieland
catch some waves,” said Wright who posted a two-wave total of 17.24 out of a possible 20 points in the final. “It started pulsing there for a little bit and I was happy.” On the men’s side of competition, Raoni Monteiro seemed to link up the longest rides from the Boneyard section the best. Monteiro is the first Brazilian, since Fabio Gouveia in 1991, to win the O’Neill World Cup of Surfing. He also
Heff
Tyler Wright joins Gouveiaa as one of only two Brazilians to win a Vans Triple Crown of Surfing event. “It means a lot to me because I’ve been trying to do good in Hawaii for so long,” said Monteiro who has been coming to Hawaii for the past 15 seasons. “I just tried to sit out there and I knew when the set comes the wave first breaks on Boneyards out there deep. So I knew if you get the waves that go all the way
Kirsten / ASP
Kirsten / ASP
Coco Ho
through the bank you can make some good turns so I just tried to do that and it worked.” Monteiro won the event with a two-wave total of 14.27. Australian Julian Wilson finished in second place, and was also awarded the male Triple Crown Rookie of the Year. Maui’s Granger Larsen claimed third place and Australia’s Josh Kerr finished in fourth place. The O’Neill World Cup of Surfing and
Sunset Beach are known for giant waves, but this year’s event was a different story. It was small, stormy conditions for the majority of the second jewel of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, but Monteiro was ready. “You have to be prepared for every condition so I was prepared and ready for small waves,” said Monteiro. “I’m from Brazil so I know how to surf small waves and I’m very happy.” F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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Th e Billabong Pipe Masters In M emory of Andy Irons
“...the most nervous three minutes I’ve ever had.” Heff
—Jeremy Flores
F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M
Winner Jeremy Flores
Kelly Slater Heff
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Kirsten / ASP
Jeremy Flores, 22, waited till the last three minutes of the final to steal the 2010 Billabong Pipe Masters title from Kieren Perrow, 33. This was Flores’ first Association of Surfing Professionals World Tour victory. Flores won the third jewel of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing presented by Rockstar Energy Drinks and $75,000 with a two-wave total of 14.54 out of a possible 20 points. He caught the contest-winning ride in the last three minutes of the final– the judges awarded Flores a 9.37 out of a possible 10 points for a head high, Backdoor barrel. “That was the most nervous last three minutes I’ve ever had,” said Flores who is originally from Reunion Island, France. “The waves were a little slower in the final and luckily this really good one came and I went. I knew I had the speed because the wave had a big wall on it. I knew if I came out I would have a big score on it. When I came out it was a dream.” Flores got the winning wave after Perrow, who hails from Byron Bay, Australia, made a crucial error in the final minutes. “I was dissapointed in myself because I took that first one and I though it was going to be good, but it had just a crumbly, weird section and didn’t let me come out of the barre,” said Perrow, who earned a twowave total of 13.77. “I looked up and saw (Jeremy Flores) taking off into that perferct wave. It was kind of heartbreaking, really. The ball was in my court at that point in the heat.” This was Perrow’s first final appearance in his seven-year career on the World Tour and he was still happy with the result. The Billabong Pipe Masters in memory of Andy Irons is the last event of the year on the ASP World Tour. Like the event’s name, Flores dedicated this win to the late Andy Irons. The three-time ASP World Champ from Kauai was a good friend and huge influence said Flores. “I dedicated this victory to A.I. (Andy Irons),” said Flores. “He’s the kind of guy that pushed me so hard, and when I was down he was always there to come and talk, even if it was for hours, he didn’t have to do it, but he would always do it. This is definitely for him.” It’s been a longtime coming. For too many years, the ladies haven’t
Th e Big Sh ow The Vans Duel for the Jewel
“My first wave I hit the bottom—almost all my waves except for the one I made I hit the bottom, but it was a cool little memento from Backdoor.” Heff
—Stphanie Gilmore
Heff
Coco Ho
Tyler Wright F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M Heff
Finalists.
Kirsten / ASP
had their chance to waltz with Pipe. Thankfully, with the implementation of this year’s Vans Duel for the Jewel, the top-ranked contenders from Haleiwa and Sunset found themselves at the most esteemed venue in the world donning jerseys amid 5-foot Backdoor tubes. In the water for the one-time heat, Coco Ho, Tyler Wright, Steph Gilmore, and Alana Blanchard all vyed for the prestige of claiming this inagural win. “It’s such a Hollywood kind of a dream,” said Gilmore. “We had such a long wait in between the Sunset event and this heat so it’s kind of like the nerves were building and building. “My first wave I hit the bottom—almost all my waves except for the one I made I hit the bottom, but it was a cool little memento from Backdoor. “Thanks to Vans we were able to have the Triple Crown this year and it’s definitely up there with winning world titles. Each place is so different and challenging, you can show up here with all the confidence in the world and get smashed, so to win it again I feel really happy and proud of my achievements this year.” f
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Interview by Ryan Kelly
or fans of professional surfing, the emotional rollercoaster that we know as the 2010 World Tour will have earned the dubious honor of being the most memorable year in our sport’s history. We watched the comeback of a lifetime materialize as Andy Irons pig-dogged his way to victory at Teahupoo and reignited one of the sport’s greatest rivalries. At the very same event, we watched post-heat interviews in agony as trimmed its number of big leaguers by 12 and broadcast premature retirement speeches from 25-year-olds. Just over a month later the collective hearts of the surfing world were broken with the news of Andy’s tragic passing. Days later, amid a soaking of more tears than champagne, we watched through misty eyes as our King earned his 10th crown and engraved his legacy on our sport forever. And to be sure that we didn’t end the year on a positive note, the ASP quietly laid-off seven more of our sport’s all-stars and finally let us get off that damned rollercoaster. If you thought being a fan was tough this year, you have no idea what it was like to be Roy Powers. It was the most memorable year on tour that he’d love to forget. Imagine re-qualifying for the 2010 midseason cut by the skin of your teeth only to be rewarded by being dragged down the road on a ride from hell. Not only did the Kauai native bear witness to all of the ups and downs of the 2010 World Tour, he fell victim to the brutal year-end cut but kept the excitement going by marrying his long-time girlfriend and travel partner Dani O’Conell. And if that wasn’t enough, he went through all of it with a smile, because that’s the kind of guy that Roy is. In a professional sport that is driven by the personalities of less than a handful of athletes, it’s easy for casual fans to miss out on some of the lesser-known characters that make up our hallowed fraternity of traveling surfers; guys who rarely steal the spotlight during webcasts or make it out of the third round alive. Guys who get on a plane dozens of times a year only to travel across the globe and return with less money then they brought, but bring back better stories than the top 10 could ever dream of. Guys who can turn “a quiet one with the boys” into an all-nighter to remember…or not to remember at all. Guys who keep a smile on their face and a positive attitude, even though things aren’t going their way. Guys who may not be a fan favorite, but are in the top five amongst their peers. Guys like Roy who may not have been on tour for a long time, but he made damn sure it was a good time.
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If you thought being a fan was tough this year, you have no idea what it was like to be Roy Powers. It was the most memorable year on tour that he’d love to forget.
For fans of professional surfing, the emotional rollercoaster that we know as the 2010 World Tour will have earned the dubious honor of being the most memorable year in our sport’s history: We watched the comeback story of a lifetime materialize as Andy Irons’ pigdogged his way to victory at Teahopuu and reignited one of our sport’s greatest rivalries. At the very same event, we watched post-heat interviews in agony as trimmed its number of big leaguers by 12 and broadcasted premature
Roy Powers, taking a break from the rollercoaster.
Baeseman
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news & events
Heff
Roy Powers, soldiering on.
FREESURF: What’s your favorite tour destination and why? Roy Powers: Australia because I surf a lot and it’s so much like Hawaii, I feel at home. They have a great surf community and I do well there. FS: What’s your least favorite tour destination and why? RP: Tahiti. Don’t get me wrong, the wave is incredible but I can’t stand the heat, the mosquitoes, and how hard it is to get out there and go surfing if you don’t have a boat or a ski. Basically you have to be super hooked up to have fun there. FS: Best hospitality on tour? RP: Portugal is cool. The people are so friendly and they are super fanatical…win or lose, they cheer for you. FS: Best city to party on tour? RP: California or Brazil. It depends if you’re single or not single. FS: Where are the most beautiful women on tour? RP: Brazil has the most hot girls to guy ratio on the planet…’nuff said. Book your ticket ASAP! FS: Who’s the best travel partner and why? RP: My wife. She does everything. I just have to show up and surf. FS: Top three most fun guys to be around on tour and why?
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RP: The Gudangs, Kekoa Bacalso, Luke Munro. They are always staying positive and keeping me laughing. Pretty encouraging guys, too.
on tour? RP: Everyone had their moments, whoever was ripping that contest was the man at the event.
FS: What was your biggest bonehead move during your rookie year on tour? RP: Not knowing how to manage priority…still learning.
FS: How do you think life on tour is a detriment to relationships? RP: If you don’t have the money to bring your partner it’s tough and gets lonely.
FS: What was your gnarliest rental car experience on tour? RP: I rear-ended someone in Spain and the rental car company tried to sue me… I won.
FS: What does being off tour mean to your life? RP: Next chapter.
FS: What are you most proud of from your time spent on tour? RP: The friends I’ve made and the experiences I’ve had. Being a kid from a little island and being able to compete on the world stage is pretty damn amazing. FS: What was your most memorable moment on tour? RP: My rookie year on tour I was in a heat with Andy at J Bay and a pod of 200 dolphins swam right through us for about 10 minutes. It was unreal! FS: As someone who has experienced life on tour firsthand, what can the ASP do to make the tour better? RP: Accommodate the surfers better and make it worth it to be on the road constantly. FS: Who influenced you most while you were
FS: What are you looking forward to the most now that you’re off tour? RP: Different things that I can experience through surfing that I wasn’t able to do while on tour. FS: What are you fearing the most being off tour? RP: Missing the competition is the hardest. FS: What do you think is Andy Irons’ legacy? RP: Andy was a very generous person that touched millions of people through surfing alone. He was a guy that opened up a lot of doors for someone like me and helped us realize that the best surfers in the world do come from Hawaii. He was my brother through and through… FS: If you had to choose one word to describe the year that was the 2010 World Tour, what would it be? RP: Rollercoaster. f
Snow Days Whether you’re hitting the slopes, making snowballs and smashing your friends, or just admiring the view at some of the most breathtaking spots in the world, there is something about the snow that draws us in. This crystallized ice has allowed the invention and development of some of our favorite pastimes. From skiing and snowboarding to snowmobiling and sledding, it goes without saying that we all love powder. For those of us in Hawaii, only so much time can go by before we start searching for the next snowy destination to venture off to. Although there’s a deluge of criteria that go into finding that perfect spot of choice, it’s pretty unanimous that snow is one of the most critical factors. With all the considerations at hand, we’ve sent out our own crew of Hawaiian surfers and had them do some of the work for you. When planning your next trip, take our lead and check out the following locations.
Monashee Powder Cat Skiing Operation Just outside the quite little town of Revelstoke is the Monashee Powder Cat Skiing Operation, which sits right on the edge of the Heli and Cat skiing capital of the world. This place rocks. You’ll find yourself surrounded by some of the most beautiful mountains in the world and have the chance to find out what they mean when they say that things go “Truly Deeper in the Monashees.”
Big White Ski Resort Our crew was treated to some of Big White’s finest mountain activities, restaurants, and ski-in-ski-out accommodations on the hill while exploring the most intimate secrets of this mountain town, which sits just outside of Kelowna, BC. This ski resort is set-up for families and friends and runs year round activities making it perfect to visit at any time.
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Flynn Seddon photo Mark Gallup
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Snow Days SilverStar Mountain Resort
The quiet resort' mountain sign that greets skiirs and snowboarders reads, “SilverStar Mountain Resort, My Mountain.” Hear from the locals why they call this place home and why they wouldn’t change a single thing. The sister mountain to Big White Ski resort, SilverStar,has the character of a small mountain town with a big ski resort feel.
Island Lake Lodge Our Hawaiian based crew of surfers/snowboarders were treated to some of Canada’s driest knee-to-waist deep Champagne Powder at Fernie, BC. It’s a place legendary in the ski world for its super deep powder. Catering to the greats, like Craig Kelly and Scott Schmitt, this backcountry winter wonderland is something to put on your wish list.
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the wire When the Shark Bites: Maui Pros Save Shark Attack Victim
No matter how many times you paddle out in your life at however many different places, it’s hard to fathom the concept of witnessing a shark attack. That’s exactly how Kai Barger, Granger Larsen, Dusty Payne, and Tanner Hendrickson felt when they padded out for a surf the day after Christmas. The waves had been firing all week on Maui and this day didn’t appear to show signs of being anything outside of the norm. After about an hour into the session Kai and Tanner saw a bodyboarder sitting way outside screaming the most dreaded words you’ll ever want to hear in a session. “SHARK!” Two bodyboarders paddled toward Tanner and Kai where they realized that one was actually bit. Tanner helped tow the bodyboarder to the inside where Kai then tied a tourniquet to stem the bleeding. Granger was a bit behind and apparently freaking out in the blood trail. Once on the beach, they got the victim—a 16-year-old bodyboarder named Vaughan Stover—and his leg into an elevated position until the Fire department and the rest of the 911 squad arrived. Considering the circumstances, the crew on-hand did a fantastic job. It was a horrible situation and to their credit, the boys weren’t the least bit rattled by it. The victim ended up being fine, just a lot of stitches, probably a cool scar and a damn good story that will definitely get him laid in the near future. —Albee Layer
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Kauai Aimed at building community through love of art, film, and surf, Kauaifilmmaker Joel Guy (Hanalei Grass Shack Productions) and a variety of the island’s budding (and well-ripened) creative talents come together to put on Second Saturday: Hanalei Town. With themes such as tributes to local shapers, health/wellness expos, and cultural education seminars, the free monthly festival continues to expand in depth and proves to be not only a venue for artists and musicians to gain exposure but an effective platform to promote a healthy and engaged community. Kid-friendly scavenger hunts and dodge ball games also provide a safe outlet for teens. Starting at 4pm, the event culminates with a surf-film at dusk, ranging from Guy’s latest footage of some not-to-be mentioned Kauai super sessions to award-winning films such as Lisa Denker and Charlotte Lagarde’s Heart of the Sei, about Hawaiian surfing champion Rell Sun. (The next event will be Saturday February 12. —Clark Carroll Big Island When big-wave surfing crew began to descend on Hawaii in preparation for the Eddie, two of the most esteemed surfers of the modern era booked tickets to the Big Island to uncover a few rarely surfed peaks. Judging from the photos we’ve seen, they unveiled a keeper of a right. And that’s all we’re saying. Actually, in all honesty, we’ve got a man on the scene with them right now. If it turns out they get some gold, rest assured you’ll hear about it in glossy detail in our next issue.
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the wire Behind “The King At Pipe” Great tragedy can birth beautiful art. Take photographer Zak Noyle and his contribution to Hurley’s second Annual Anti-Canvas: a showcase of boardshort art for charity presented by Hurley and Contrast Magazine. This event raised a total $4090 on Friday Dec. 3, 2010 at SOHO Mixed Media Bar Christa Wittmier/SuperCW.com for the Lokahi Giving Project, Junior Lifeguard Program and the Susan G. Komen for the Cure. Hurley utilized a “sublimation” process to make one-of-akind boardshort with artwork from Noyle and 37 other artists. These boardshorts were auctioned off during the The 2nd Annual The AntiCanvas: a showcase of boardshort art for charity. Noyle’s contribution to the show was titled “The King At Pipe” and it was a tribute to the late-Andy Irons. “I had a design done and ready on November 2, 2010 ready to turn into Hurley for the Contrast Magazine Anti Canvas art show. I received the shocking and tragic news that morning about the death of a legend and one of my heroes, Andy Irons passing away. I was shattered and did not know what to do, I was sitting at my computer looking at the design I was about to turn in, and a light bulb went off in my head,” explained Noyle. For the next three days, the 25-year-old Surfer Magazine staff photographer scrolled through thousands of images and multiple hard drives. He narrowed it down to 300 pictures from Pipeline and began creating his piece. “I made sure I had at least one picture of everyone of the local boys surfing out at Pipe and Backdoor,” said Noyle. “I then overlaid an image of Andy Irons surfing at Pipeline, so that from far it looks like a picture of just Andy surfing Pipe by himself, but from up close you see all the boys of Hawai‘i actually surfing behind Andy for Andy.” Branding-wise, Noyle’s Anti-Canvas piece is cool because it’s the only pair of boardshorts that will ever have both the Hurley and Billabong logo prominently displayed. Artistically speaking, “The King At Pipe” is a testament to the cathartic element of creativity, and proof that beauty can be born from mourning. —D.I.
Haleiwa International Open
The Surf N Sea 41st Annual Haleiwa International Open presented by Hurley proved to be one of the most radical contests since the big-wave amateur surfing contest started back in 1969.
Expires Mar 31, 2011
Kinsan
Expires Mar 31, 2011
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the wire The goodwill event saw near to perfect conditions, as 8- to 12foot surf at Haleiwa’s Alii Beach set up an outlet for superb big-wave surfing during the only amateur event with a 12-day waiting period. The 12-division contest covered shortboard, longboard, and a Japanese special event group for members of the JPSA. Local boy Matty Costa ranked in a perfect 10 in the final and took the win in the Junior Men’s division with a solid backhand attack, landing him the Hurley True Performance Award. Hokkaido’s big-wave charger, Shimpei Horiguchi, won the Japan Pro Mens division and Hawaiian/Japanese pro, Jun Jo, opened the final with a near perfect 9.8 double-barrel and settled in second. The grassroots community fundraiser, put on by The Friends of Alii Beach nonprofit organization, promotes the Aloha spirit of sportsmanship—a tradition still evident in the rapport of companionship seen at this year’s Haleiwa International Open. —G.O.
Kelly Teams with Quik Foundation to donate $100,000 Kelly Slater teamed with the Quiksilver Foundation to create the “10 for TEN” campaign, which will distribute $100,000 between 10 nonprofit organizations of the champions choice. The decision came down to ten befitting beneficiaries that Kelly felt passionate about because they somehow affected his life. Ryan Ashton, Director of the Quiksilver Foundation said, “All of his selections fall in line with the Quiksilver Foundation’s mission to support environmental, educational, health and humanitarian projects.
spaghettini
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”The Quiksilver Foundation is committed to benefiting and enhancing the quality of life for communities of boardriders across the world by supporting a diversity of youth-related projects.”Ten $10,000 donations is really special. As a kid I could not have fathomed being able to give such a nice gift to charities,” Kelly said. Each non-prof will receive the $10k contribution in celebration of his 10th ASP World Surfing Championship. —G.O.
Open Daily from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm In the heart of Haleiwa
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The Ten: $10K – Mauli Ola Foundation $10K – Na Kalai Wa’a Moku O Hawai’i $10K – Kokua Hawai’i Foundation $10K – Space Coast Early Intervention Center $10K – Best Friends Animal Society $10K – Boys and Girls Club of San Clemente $10K – Smile Train $10K – Waves for Water $10K – LA Surf Bus Foundation $10K – SurfAid
the wire Hank Gaskell Wins the Sponsor Me Sunset Open
Paddle Tours!
In late January, amid near-perfect conditions, the Sponsor Me Sunset Open presented by Da Hui inched towards crowning a winner. Moving out of the quarters and into the semi finals, the event bore witness to an onslaught of talent as the playing field was thinned from eight to four. By late afternoon the stage was set for an all-Hawaiian final including Hank Gaskell, Myles Padaca, Joel Centeio, and Ian Walsh.
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Finalists. Moments after switching boards during the final heat, Hank Gaskell took off from a perfect position and impressed not only the judges, but the crowd of onlookers in one of the best rides of the day that boosted him into first place. Narrolwy holding onto the lead as the final horn blew, Hank still had little knowledge that he was about to win. “I had no idea what everyone else was doing. I was on a bigger board and with about 8 minutes to go I called my caddy Dege (O’Connel) over, he got me my 6’5” and I got right in position for a good one,” Hank says. “I’m so excited right now. I don’t even now what to say. I’m just baffled I didn’t think I won that,” Hank says at the awards after being presented with a $10,000 prize and another title. Whether it be the switch in boards, the timing or just having picked the right wave, one thing is for sure, the yet-to-be sponsored Gaskell is leaving his mark. —G.O.
John Florence Scalps Volcom Pipe Pro If we haven’t yet preached the dominance of John Florence enough to you in the past few months, you can thank your lucky stars because we’re at it again. Not that we had a choice, really, because when you claim back-toback wins at Pipeline, it kinda warrants a little love. So without further adieu, we’re proud to be the first to say (in print at least…we’re betting) that John Florence has won the Volcom Pipe Pro in some of the finest damn conditions these eyes have ever seen. Way to go, Johnny. We’ll be bringing you the feel recap in the next issue.
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F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M
Baeseman
It’s been said that to be a legend, one must live a life encompassing heroic character, miraculous acts, and memorable stories. On a Tuesday afternoon, just days before one of the most hyped swells of the season is set to light the North Shore aflame, I met with such a legend. His name is Abe Lerner, and he saves lives. His sunglasses hide a set of eyes that have bore witness to countless heart-thumping rescues. And as he walked down from the lifeguard tower that overlooks the great Pacific, Abe and I sit down on the beach at Waimea Bay, the spot where just two days prior he brought a 30-year-old man back to life, and get to talking. “All of us guys are on Cloud 9 right now; it was a miracle,” he says while nodding his head, still in disbelief. “I was drawn to this board and scanned the water to the point, but never saw a swimmer. Another surfer saw a body floating, still attached to the leash and that’s when we confirmed this guy was in trouble. We got out and had him back to shore in less than a minute—that’s how good our team is. I had done almost 20 minutes of CPR then the ambulance arrived and shocked him twice to get him back to life. It was the most rewarding rescue of my life.” It’s exactly these type of encounters that illustrate the tenacity of Abe’s vigilance. He operates a mobile unit that is responsible for 60 miles of coastline from Kaena Point to Kaneohe. “There is never a typical day—the day dictates what I do. Our ocean is the most prestigious and deadliest in the world,” Abe says. Having spent a lifetime in Pupukea, Abe accumulated an abundance of local knowledge and will often slip on a pair of fins and go for a bodysurf because he believes the only way to get comfortable with the job is to put yourself in the heart of its conditions. “I was destined to do this. I don’t know what other path I would have taken. I feel like I’m supposed to be here,” he says to me, making it completely evident just how passionate he is about being a lifeguard. On behalf of the countless lives Abe and his crew of lifeguards have protected, we’d just like to say thank you one more time. —G.O.
North shore
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Coming next issue Pipeline prevails as we take you inside the Volcom Pipe Pro. Plus, we're handing over the editorial reigns for an issue. Who's gonna steer the ship next month? We'd love to tell you but...
Kawai Lindo, swinging for the fences.
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F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
Baeseman
F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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