Do not tow
Shane dorian wins the arms race Holding the Line The Rise Of Kalani Chapman
Shane Dor ian Photo: Batel Shimi
Aloha For Japan Hawaii Gives Back To The Land Of The Rising Sun
April V8#4 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM
Game Changers
Four Surfers Shifting Surfing
Free in Hawai‘i
biggest paddle Ever?
remembering sion milosky PG 58
*FEATURED STYLE: GALAXY / PHOTO CHILDS
a n a lo g c lo th in g .c o m
SCAN ME WITH YOUR MOBILE
D OW N L O A D A F R E E Q R R E A D E R @ WWW.RIPCURL.COM/QRCODES
AVAILABLE AT: MIRAGE ELITE DEALER MIRAGE PHOENIX WEIGHTLESS, HYDROPHOBIC, ELASTOSTRETCH 3 SEE MORE OF THE ULTIMATE BOARDSHORT @ WWW.RIPCURL.COM/MIRAGE
Free Parking
Humble, friendly, fearless, and driven, Sion Milosky was the kind of man that you just had to pull for and the news of his death at Maverick's sucked the wind out of our tight-knit island community. Beginning on page 58, we pay homage to the man in the best way we know how. Aloha, Sion, we were better for knowing you. Photo: Zak Noyle.
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
11
Contents V8#4 April 2011
34 Aperture Glory, glory, hallelujah! We’re singing the gospel and praising our lens-toting and high-shredding brethren in this 13-page (I know, right?) photo gallery.
48 Did You Hear What Kalani Said? Of course you
didn’t, cause you haven’t read our interview with the man that we’ve deemed the Charger of the Winter.
Changers May we introduce you to four of the most 54 Game varied surfers changing the industry?
58 Remembering Sion milosky We pay tribute to a fallen
Heff
friend in this extended gallery.
Some of the best things in life are done laying down.
12
F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M
Maui
Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea
Big Island
Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa
Oahu
Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani
Kauai
Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove
m and e i ii hawa
from our bakery
Enjoy any of our five new baked goods Weatherford
Granola Muffins, Zucchini Carrot Bread, Lowfat Oaties, Peanut Butter Protein Cookies and Peanut Butter Energy Bar
Contents V8#4 April 2011
10. Free Parking: Sion Milosky, right at home. 22. Ed Note: Now is the best time to be a surfer. And don't let anyone (unless it's us) tell you otherwise. 24. Howzit: Odd moments, candid action, and just a touch of the good life form up this month's column.
ar b y
rg
e n e er
utt b t
u
new
n pea
28: T he Arms Race: On a 25-foot-plus windswept day at Jaws, Shane Dorian and a few cohorts paddled into the history books and effectively kill tow-ins. 30. P laylist: In the off chance that you were wondering what the editorial team listend to while we made this issue, we formulated a playlist. 30. A loha for Japan: As a means to give back to victims of the Japanese earthquake and tsunami, local retailers unite with the Aloha for Japan campaign. 68. The Wire: Happenings from the outerislands.
www.jambahawaii.com facebook.com/jambahawaii | twitter.com/jambahawaii
74. Closeout: Alex Gray gets blue.
V8#4 April
To see video of this month’s cover, scan the QR code below with your smartphone.
Shane Dorian, no man’s land. Photo: Batel Shimi
Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter Editorial and Marketing Intern Gianna O’Brienh
Free Thinkers
Clark Carroll, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Ryan Kelly, Albee Layer
Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock
Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Brandon Ells, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Ryan Gamma, Jeff Hall, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson
Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson
Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm. A product of Manulele, Inc. 2011
Trans Brown Stripe
glas er phot o www.dragonalliance.com
Editor’s note
Heff
cultural ponderings
Tyler Newton, living the high life.
best of times From the time we first stood up on a board, we’ve been told that our generation had entered the game too late, that we had somehow missed out on the Golden Age, that we were destined to live our surfing lives without a soul. In lineups across the world, old-timer’s lamented over the loss of the days when surfing was supposedly simple, uncomplicated, and pure. Had only we been born a few decades earlier, they told us, we could have experienced surfing in her heyday, surrounded ourselves in empty lineups, and carved our boards through unchartered lines. According to our fathers and grandfathers, ours was a breed of surfing that sold a virgin image to the masses and cashed out. We should be ashamed of where our sport has gone. Ashamed, they told us. Do yourself a favor: Don’t buy it. Not for a second. There has never been a better time to be a surfer than right now. After being indoctrinated for decades that our breed of surfing, one where the sport draws in hundreds of millions of dollars, is somehow inferior to those that came before it makes my skin crawl. Taking nothing away from the founding fathers, but this is surfing’s Golden Age. Right now. Right here. Surfing’s soul is alive and proudly representing an array of colors. We’re no longer an introverted clique confined to Hawaii, Southern
22
F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M
California, and the Gold Coast. We’ve spread our sport to the masses, and despite what anyone else has ever told you, we have not sold our soul, but have shared it with the world. Yes, they sell boards at Costco and most of the major companies are publicly traded, but surfing should be about inclusion, not exclusion. If the next Kelly Slater or Dane Reynolds gets his start on a Costco board, does that make his entry to the sport any less special? Is it really so corrupt of us to create tens of thousands of jobs centered around something we all love to do? Are we soulless bastards because we’ve brought surfing to the shores off Africa, the Middle East, and South America? Hardly. Instead of shrugging your shoulders and politely nodding the next time you’re forced to sit through a lecture on how commercialism killed surfing, here’s an idea: cooly smile, pay homage to the tracks that the old breed laid before us, but rest easy knowing that there are thousands of young groms in distant lands beaming with happiness because surfing chose to branch out. Grin at the fact that women the world over are looking to Carissa Moore, Bethany Hamilton, and Stephanie Gilmore as role models. The current incarnation of surfing may indeed be a bigger beast, but that doesn’t mean that it’s not a better beast.
www.localmotionhawaii.com
OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace
sections
3
2
Kirsten / ASP
Rock
1
Kirsten / ASP
/ ca u g h t i n t h e ac t
Kirstin / ASP
howzit
4
1. After 10 world titles, Kelly has earned the right to cry. 2. Alana Blanchard with a reason to smile. 3. Like the movie that bears his name, Buttons appears to be aging backwards. 4. Nage Melamed, Dusty Payne and Coco Ho, living it up down under.
6. Youthful meditation.
6
5
24
F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
Heff
8
Heff
8. Zeke and friends, frothing on last month’s guest editor issue.
Latronic
7. Nothing like having a friend you can lean on.
7
Nick Simone
5. A fter decades of chronicling the North Shore’s most amazing moments, Pete Frieden finally gets the lens turned on him.
ROCKY POINT
Photo: McGinnis
Pilot Model by Eric Arakawa: 5’10” X 18.25 ” X 2.25”
Ala Moana Center
808-973-6780 www.hicsurf.com
sections online happenings
Meola’s Web Matt Meola Chimes In On His Innersection Win
FreeSurf: When they announced that you had beat Craig Anderson, what was going through your head and how long until you started thinking about ways to spend the $100,000? MM: They called Ando [Craig Anderson] and I on to the stage and told us that we were neck and neck up until the final few days. That point was probably the most nervous I have ever been in my entire life. My heart felt like it was gonna pound out of my chest. When they announced me as the winner it was a huge feeling of relief. I was in shock. I always thought that if I won something of this magnitude I would be jumping for joy and screaming my brains out, but all I could do was just stand there with a smile on my face. FS: Do you have any plans on spending the cash? MM: The first thing I want to do is put on a party/fundraiser for Kuau Mart on Maui. Kuau Mart was one of the last local, family stores on the north shore of Maui where just about every surfer from Ho’okipa
Glaser
After months of uploads, downloads, Facebook chatter and Twitter feeds, Innersection finally crowned a $100,000 winner in the form of Maui’s Matt Meola. We’d love to say that we were surprised, but truth be told, we kind of had a feeling Matt would be a major contender. So at a dark Australian bar surrounded by sweating Coronas and the best surfers in the world, the populace deemed Matt the winner over Craig Anderson and the Maui Boy quickly grew $100,000 richer. So what does he want to do with the money? Pay his filmers and save a restaurant, of course.
grew up eating breakfast and lunch. Just before I left to Australia they were shut down by their landlord who decided to raise their rent so they couldn’t stay anymore. Other than that I need to pay my filmers and editor and then we’ll see what I have left. FS: So where to now? MM: Oxbow is coming out with a movie that I will start filming for as soon as I am healed up. Between that and another Innersection part I feel like I’ll be pretty busy.
sections
Sequence: Batel Shimi
The new arms race
With my Own Two Hands
To see video of this session, scan the QR code below with your smartphone.
Shane Dorian and Crew Paddle Into Massive Jaws It takes a different kind of person to paddle into 20-foot-plus windshredded Jaws. Yes, we uttered “paddle” and “Jaws” in the same sentence. Your run-of-the-mill charger just won’t cut it in this day and age. It takes someone steely, and to pull a phrase from the Cohen Brothers, it takes a man of true grit. It takes someone like Shane Dorian. Granted, Shane’s no stranger to changing the playing field. Whether he’s been slab-hunting abroad or slaying giants at home, it seems like Dorian reinvents the game every decade. This time, along with Ian Walsh and a few other cohorts, Dorian opted to ditch the ski and paddle into heaving Jaws. It was a feat for the history books if there ever was one. When the photos came across our inboxes, we were all left with the dying
revelation that in the realm of big-wave surfing, things had just changed. With Shane's help, we’ve jettisoned the ski and have opted for the paddlein to propel us into surfing’s next chapter.
When the photos came across our inboxes, we were all left with the dying revelation that in the realm of big-wave surfing, things had just changed.
HSA
HAWA I I S U R F I N G AS S O C I AT I O N
sections Aloha for Japan
xx
Hawaii Gives Back
xx xx
When Jun Jo watched the devastation of the Japanese tsunami live on CNN from his home on Oahu, he was struck by more than just the surreal power of Mother Nature. As the images of entire towns reduced to silt-covered fields of debris flashed across his eyes, his mind immediately turned to more than just the terror unfolding before him, but to the well being of dozens of his Japanese friends. Having been a lifelong patron to the bounty of surf and culture that Japan offered, Jun—who’s a professional surfer turned founder of the brand In4mation—had been traveling to the country for decades and had in fact just returned from a recent trip when the tsunami struck. And like most of us, as the sheer devastation of what had occurred became clear, Jun wanted to find an avenue to give back to a country that had given him so much. With the help of a few other Honolulu-based retailers known as GRP Home, the “Aloha for Japan” relief tee was born. “So many of us traveled throughout Japan on tour back in the day and have so many good friends and memories of the country. To watch the tsunami hit…it was just surreal. I don’t really know how to describe it,” said Jun. “After watching all of the devastation, I really wanted to find a way to give back. So a group of us local retailers thought we could raise money by printing tees and donating all of the profits to the Hawaiian Red Cross fund for tsunami victims in Japan.” The shirt, which reads “Aloha” with a Japanese rising sun representing the letter “O” have been flying off the shelves since they went on sale Monday morning at numerous locations throughout Oahu. “[We] sold out in the first five minutes that we opened,” In4mation warehouse clerk James Ferreira told a Honolulu NBC station. The original run of tees were set for 600, but according to reports, they’ve already received thousands of orders and have plans of printing more. “To me, this is how Hawaii gives back. Aloha. It means we have your back and we’re here to help,” added Jun. “I think the amount of response we’ve had to the shirts really shows that Hawaii wants to give back.”
So Just how rad is Carissa Moore? The Kickflip That Didn’t—or Did—Fly We’ll be the first to admit that a little piece of us died when we got wind that Santa Cruz’s Zoltan Torkos wasn’t going to be cashing in on the $10,000 prize for pulling the first-ever kickflip in surfing. Set up in 2007, the Volcom KickflipOff offered $10,000 to the first person who stuck a kickflip on video. Well, it turns out there was some fine print involved and the flip had to be above the lip to count with the powers that be at Volcom initially deeming it ineligible. After a bit more thought, Volcom smiled on Zoltan and handed over 10 grand after all. They’ve also upped the prize money for the first above-the-lip kickflip to $20,000. Fins across the world are said to have shuttered at the news.
30
F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
It's no secret that we're head-over-heels in love with all things Carissa Moore. After claiming a win at Snapper earlier this year with some of the most amazing surfing we've ever seen from a woman, we just couldn't stop swooing. All of this begs the question: Just how rad is Carissa Moore?
Carissa Moore is the raddest thing to come out of Hawaii since the plate lunch.
Yeah, she’s okay.*
Carissa Moore is radder than that guy Cru Jones from the movie Rad.
1%
A quick sampling of beats from the FREESURF office Camera Obscura “French Navy” Cam’Ron “Oh Boy” Caribou “Odessa” Duck Sauce “Anyway” Fitz & the Tantrums “Pickin’ Up the Pieces” Future Islands “Vireo’s Eye” Javelin “Susie Cues” Miike Snow “Song for No One” Plan B “She Said” Thom Yorke “The Eraser”
30% 20% 49%
*This person is opposed to all things rad.
play list
Carissa Moore is so rad, that I physically cry when someone mentions her name.
To Access this playlist online, and other music happenings, go to Freesurfmagazine. com/blog
Located in the North Shore Marketplace Haleiwa w w w. b a n z a i s u s h i b a r h a w a i i . c o m • 8 0 8 - 6 3 7 - 4 4 0 4
sections
The Sound Of Cat power Chan Marshall, the voice of Cat Power, has been described as heartwrenching, soulful and mesmerizing. When I saw her walk on stage at Aloha Towers at a recent show in Honolulu, she daintily moved onto the floor as she started to sing “The House of the Rising Sun.” It was as if huge dark wings unfolded and extended over all of us. I swear the wind moved across the harbor to answer the deep vibrations pouring out of her voice. By the time she moved into Fleetwood Mac’s “Dreams,” I was beyond mesmerized. Chan is more than a voice, she is a presence. As surfers, we experience something similar when we watch the way Dane launches himself into space and connects himself to sections of water where no wave seems to exist. Isn’t this how we evolve as surfers? We watch intently, over and over until someon’s style somehow becomes a part of our own. Whether it is simply being a good artist, caring about your performance, or knowing how to tap into the zone, there’s something special when passion and talent collide. It’s here that Chan finds her special place in music as one of our generation’s great voices. In her own words, “music is a vessel. It’s one entire existence.” Maybe this greatness is something we can all become when we learn to completely get lost in something and allow it to become us...to become our existence. — India Clark
Courtesy
Music to your ears
A
p
To steal one from the folks at Corona, here’s Mikala Jones, from where you’d rather be.
34
F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M
e
r
u
r
e
Baeseman
t
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
35
36
F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M
p
e
r
t
u
r
e
Heff
A
Remember the last time you gouged a turn so hard your fin broke off mid-face? Yeah, us neither.
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
37
Latronic
How many guys in their 50s do you know that are surfing like this? The correct answer is none.
A 38
p
F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M
e
r
t
u
r
e
Latronic Heff
Above: Standouts tend to stand tall. Nathan Fletcher, Pipeline. Below: 300-yard rights suit your fancy?
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
39
Derek Ho, fresh take from a seasoned pro.
40
F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M
A p e r t u r
Baeseman
e F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
41
p
e
r
t
u
r
e
Ells
A
Evan Valiere punts one to the upper deck.
42
F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M
Baeseman
TJ Barron gets more barrels than Donkey Kong.
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
43
e r u t r e p A 44
F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M
Baeseman
The embodiment of commitment, Kala Alexander holds tight and weathers the storm.
F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
45
If Carissa Moore surf better than Lisa Andersen, and Lisa Andersen surfs better than you‌that means, well, just think about that one for a moment.
46
p
e
F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
r
t
u
r
e Heff
A
F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
47
Holding The L INE the rise of kalani chapman
K
alani Chapman is no stranger to the pages of this magazine. For nearly a decade, we’ve taken notice of the nonchalance and grit he displays at some of the world’s most ferocious waves. Is he an animal out at Second Reef Pipe? Clearly. Is he downright irrational in his approach to 10foot Teahupoo? You better believe it. It’s safe to say that we’ve held Kalani in high regard for some time. But then a funny thing happened
48
F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
this winter. The world caught on to Kalani. By January, he was everywhere. There he was on the podium at the Backdoor Shootout in second place. There he was at Pipe winning the Todd Chesser award at the Volcom Pipe Pro. There he was online, manhandling a win for Surfline’s Wave of the Winter. So what happened? What, if anything, changed for Kalani? We sat down with the North Shore’s own hard-charging pit bull of man a to find out. —Jeff Mull
Heff
Kalani Chapman, reaping the fruits of his labor. Above: This is what commitment looks like.
Is he an animal out at Second Reef Pipe? Clearly. Is he downright irrational in his approach to 10-foot Teahupoo? You better believe it.
Baeseman
precipice? Do you ever hesitate or is it just full-on commitment all the time?
Freesurf: You once told me that your goals in surfing are pretty simple. You said that basically, you just want the biggest barrel you can possibly get. Can you talk about that for us? Kalani Chapman: Yeah, basically this winter I was just looking for some of the biggest barrels of my life. You don’t want to go backwards, you want to always be pushing forward. Just push yourself as hard as you can. Everyone’s levels are different, but I like to push myself to be better every year. FS: You surround yourself in some pretty heavy conditions. Do you ever find yourself on the
KC: Yeah, you want to catch every big wave you paddle for, but that’s not gonna happen. There’s a lot of waves out there that don’t want to be ridden. But everybody is scared out there in some way.
FS: What have you seen change on the North Shore? KC: Growing up on the North Shore has been a dream. Especially in my area, when I was growing up, I got to see a lot of the old North Shore with a lot of the Hawaiians. I’ve seen it change a lot and seen a lot of new wealthy people come here. And of course we all saw that coming...how the North Shore changed. It’s so beautiful here. But there’s been a lot that’s changed. I’ve always lived right around Sunset Beach. The house that I pretty much grew up in used to rent for $300 a month. Now it goes for $300 a night.
FS: So who did you pall around with growing up? KC: When I was a kid I hung out with a lot of different people. Jamie [O’Brien] Makua [Rothman] Nainoa Surratt…a lot of us who grew up around Sunset hung out cause all of our parents knew each other. FS: It must be kind of strange to see a whole group of your friends grow up and have careers as pro surfers. KC: Well, we didn’t all become pro surfers. There were a lot of us who didn’t make it. Some people move away, some people get over it. There’s really not too much to do on the North Shore, you have surfing and your other jobs like waiting tables. Growing up here, it’s really easy to want to pick up that lifestyle. But as you get older, you find out that’s it’s not easy. Everyone works for it and you have to work to stay on top. Everyone charges and rips. It’s not easy. FS: So would you say that you view surfing as a job? KC: Yeah, I feel like it’s a job because I get paid F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
49
for it and everything. But even if I didn’t, of course I’d still surf and do what I do. It’s everything I know in life. FS: What was it like having Shaun [Briley] as an older brother? KC: Well, you know I always heard how good he was out in the lineup and how crazy he was and that always pushed me to want to be a big-wave surfer. It was really natural. You see your big brother go and do something, so you want to go and be like him. And that’s what I did. FS: It feels like you’ve had one of the biggest winters of your life this year. What changed or did we just start taking notice? KC: Surfing’s not like skating or motorcross where you can just pull up and set stuff up and make a jump and just be hitting the same jump trying the same trick. Surfing’s not like that. If you miss that wave, that’s it. It’s done. Every wave is different. You have to always be on your game. It’s like a never-ending hunt trying to improve. FS: Would you say that you’ve made it? KC: Yeah, I’m stoked. This feels like success to me. I get to live the dream. I s urf every day over here and travel in the summer. And maybe do some business in between. FS: Is there a moment in your life that stands out as being completely positive? KC: Maybe not one moment, but I remember thinking about the simple, basic love of surfing. Just being super stoked on the whole process of surfing. It’s funny, because I’ve been taking my nephews surfing and to see that look on their face when they first started. That’s special...to see it all sort of come together for them. To see them comprehend the whole process of gliding on water. That sort of happiness is what I remember. FS: Where do you want to see yourself five years down the line? KC: I’d like to still be surfing…
50
F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
Sequence: Heff
No matter how many times he's found himself inside the guts of Pipeline, barrels like this never cease to amaze Kalani Chapman.
F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
51
“There’s a lot of waves out there that don’t want to be ridden. But everybody is scared out there in some way.” FS: Do you want a family? KC: Yeah, of course. One day I want a family and a house. Just the basics. Just to be content and be able to surf. FS: Do you have any pet peeves? KC: Missing out on good Pipe. That’s the worst. You really only get one shot at it and to miss out on a good day…that sucks. That’s one of the worst feelings. FS: What would you tell a young grom if he asked you for advice on how to be a pro? KC: I’d tell him that you want to separate yourself from the pack, get yourself a big board, and paddle out on the biggest wave you can find. Just see where that takes you. FS: If you could snap your fingers and change one thing about pro surfing, what would it be? KC: Salary. Pay wages. I’d start there. FS: You once told me that there’s a lot of guys out there who are willing to risk their lives as professional surfers, but can’t even afford to get stitched up. KC: Yeah, that’s true. There’s a lot of things that we can improve surfing. That’s one of them. Taking care of your riders. The top guys get paid, but there’s a lot of people out there who aren’t. FS: Is there a single person that you look up to in your life as an inspiration? FS: Yeah, I’d say that person would be my brother, Shaun. I really look up to him. He’s got a good family and he’s really got his life together. Simple as that. I guess in a surfing sense, maybe Shane Dorian. He goes and catches every good swell and just shows up and does his job. f
Kalani Chapman, finding new depths.
52
F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M
Baeseman
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
53
Game
four Surfers
The
Digital Man I
Changing The Industry
M at t
M eo l a ,
M au i
A year ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find a surf fan familiar with Matt Meola. Fastforward nine months and the shaggy-headed goofyfoot was everywhere.
Lucky Studio
f there’s a surfer that’s come to represent the revolutionary impact of the Internet on surfing, it’s Maui’s Matt Meola. As we chronicled in last month’s issue [“Surfing 2.0” V.8 #3] the web has shifted the path to surf stardom. Years spent groveling on the QS and hustling on photo trips have now been replaced with one solid viral video section. A year ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find a surf fan familiar with Matt Meola. Fastforward nine months and the shaggy-headed goofyfoot was everywhere. As the inagural winner of the much-heralded Innersection, Matt moved from unknown to hero with the click of a mouse. “If it wasn’t for the Internet and things like Innersection, I don’t think I’d have a career in professional surfing,” Matt said. As a means to display Matt’s talent, the Internet has opened the eyes of world has to just how impressive the kid from Maui truly is. Mark our words, in the coming years, there will be an onslaught of coming-to-stardom stories like Matt’s. But make no mistake, his ascent marks a milestone in our sport.
O
Ch ngers
54
F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M
On All Fronts k a i
l e n n y,
m au i
Bob Bangerter
M
a u i ’s K a i Lenny isn’t one to be pidgen-holed. Throw him on a tow board, give him a sail, hand him a paddle, or plant him on a thruster and one thing is going to become undeniably certain: He’s going to own the session. Unlike so many of his teenage brethren, Kai, who’s only 18, has taken to riding a wide variety of craft in an even wider variety of surf. “It’s all about being able to get in the water as much as possible for me. I grew up surfing on Maui and it gets so windy that you can’t really surf every day,” says Kai, “So I got in to other things that could keep me in the water. Windsurfing, stand-up paddling— anything that could keep me in the water.” Apparently, all that time in the lineup has paid off in spades for Kai. Still a teenager, he’s been crowned the SUP world champion twice already. To boot, as we were going to press, we got word that he used an SUP out at Jaws. Think about that one for a second and tell us this kid’s not changing our sport on all fronts.
Game
Throw him on a tow board, give him a sail, hand him a paddle, or plant him on a thruster and one thing is going to become undeniably certain: Kai is going to own the session.
Ch
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
55
Game
Ch ngers 56
F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M
Heff
If there’s a young female surfer who embodies grace, poise, and beauty in the lineup more than Kelia Moniz, we surely haven’t met her. As one of the world’s premiere female longboarders, Kelia has risen to fame with her characteristic approach in the water. As the only girl in a family of four boys, you’d be forgiven if you thought Kelia might take a sharp and aggressive approach in the water. On the contrary, at 18 years old, it’s hard to watch Kelia cros-step down her longboard and not think you’re witnessing the incarnation of femininity on the water. Simply put, she’s bringing grace back to the game. Despite being an avid competitor, Kelia doesn’t view surfing as a job. “I wouldn’t really consider myself to be a pro surfer,” says Kelia. “To be honest, I’m not even really sure what that would mean. I’m just a surfer and I love what I do.” Kelia credits here nonchalance approach to her poise in the water. “I think the fact that I haven’t really tried to have a distinct style has a lot to do with the way I surf,” added Kelia. “My parents never really pushed us to do anything but have fun in the water and enjoy surfing for what it does. And I think that comes out when I surf.” Wherever she draws her inspiration from, it’s definitely working for Kelia Moniz. Breathing new life back into women’s longboarding with every nose ride, the surf world is having trouble taking their eyes off Kelia.
Grace Nouveau
Kelia Moniz, Oahu
As one of the world’s premier female longboarders, Kelia has risen to fame with her characteristic approach in the water.
Game
Ch ngers
Heff
“There are many women making important decisions at Hurley. I think this is a big reason why I love the job. I get to work with a lot of hard-working women who have the same goals as myself.”
The New Business woman Leilani pataccHia, oahu
A task-filled agenda. A daily planner with little room beyond the existing appointments. A smart phone constantly in her hand. On the go. Business. It’s what you’d expect from the modern business woman in the fast-paced world of the surf industry and it’s what you’ll find from Leilani Patacchia. As the women’s sales representative for Hurley who covers Hawaii, Guam and Tahiti, Leilani has been constantly on the go since taking this job four years ago. “Time has flown by and I really enjoy my job, the people I get to work with on a daily basis, and the company I work for. Hurley is a very inspiring company to be with,” she explains to me once I manage to get some time squeezed in. For a North Shore gal that grew up in Pupukea and adopted Haleiwa as her playground, it is no surprise that she turned to the surfing industry to build her career. “On the weekends we were always at the Haleiwa Surf Center, that’s where Fred, my sister Lehua, and I learned to surf. We were immersed in the surf culture as kids, growing up on the North Shore and having parents who owned a surf shop, Hawaiian Surf, and family friends who surfed or worked in the industry. But Fred’s success has definitely paved the way to my career choices and continued interest in the surf industry, working for Hurley and Freesurf Magazine previously.
“The surf industry seems very male dominated. If you look at males vs females out in the water and the amount of male vs. female product in stores it seems pretty even on the business end. There are many women making important decisions at Hurley. I think this is a big reason why I love the job. I get to work with a lot of hard-working women who have the same goals as myself.” Leilani could easily tell you a hundred of the challenges she faces in her day-to- day job, but one the of hardest things she finds about sales is the daily pressure to increase exposure and brand awareness in stores, especially with the up and down economy. “I think one of the best things about this job is its flexibility and constant change. We travel a lot so I don’t get sick of 'The Rock' anymore. Our clothing and trends change every season, so you’re always selling a new product. People always ask about the free stuff or discounts—and that’s good too!” Aside from the challenges and benefits of the job, Leilani leaves us with some blatant and valuable advice for the aspiring career-builder. “Working in the surf industry doesn’t means it’s a cruise job and you’ll surf all day; in fact your surfing could be cutback drastically. Hard work and strong relationships with your customers will take you far. If you are able to get an opportunity, take it and work hard!” —Gianna O’Brien f F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
57
S i o n 1
9
7
M i l o s k y 5
—
2
0
1
1
In the winter of 2010, with the collective attention of the surf world turned toward the Eddie Swell, a small group of relatively unknown big-wave surfers set their sights on the North Shore’s Outer Reefs. It was a gamble, but the decision to take the road less traveled paid off in spades as waves like this set the stage for Sion’s big debut in the coming months.
Hank
“ I’ve always been really happy, but if you would have told me that I would be doing what I’m doing now, I would have never believed you.”
60
F R E E S U RFM AG A ZIN E.CO M
Unlike so many of today’s professional surfers, Sion didn’t rise to fame with the support of sponsors behind him. A workingclass man if there ever was one, Sion supported his wife and two daughters as a welder and gate-builder. That being said, Sion was candid about occasionally missing work when Pipe turned on.
Heff
—Sion Milosky, on his rise to fame.
Jamie Ballenger
W
hen I first interviewed Sion Milosky for a profile in September of last year, there were more than a few things that struck me about his demeanor. At 35, he was older than most of our other profile candidates and he held an air of maturity that you didn’t see too often in other pro surfers. When a coworker and I pulled into his driveway that overlooked Rocky Point on a blustery weekday, Sion was already standing out front of his immaculate home with an ear-to-ear grin spread across his tanned and bearded face. He motioned for us to park and come on in. With a six-pack of Corona in hand, we perched up in Sion’s backyard, popped open a few beers, and began talking about his rise to fame. It was a funny thing, he told me. Being in his mid-30s with two young daughters and a wife, he didn’t think he’d ever have a career as a pro surfer. But that was okay with him. He’d already found a trade as a welder and gate-builder, and it was enough for him to provide for his family. If people wanted to cut him a check to surf, then great, but he knew he had another blue-collar job that he could always fall back on. “I’ve always been really happy,” said Sion. “Whether I was surfing or working, but if you would have told me that I would be doing what I’m doing now, I would have never believed you.” As Sion and I talked, and one beer turned to two and two quickly became three, a wonderful thing began to happen. I’ll credit it to the beers, but our interview stopped feeling like an interview and more like a regular conversation. With a laugh, Sion candidly told
us about how his first steps as a professional surfer were as a young kid from Kauai competing on the World Longboard Tour. He told us how that career fizzled out and how he began a career as a welder. But through it all, Sion told me, he’d always had an affinity for bigwave surfing. Like a siren’s song, there was something about pushing
The quintessential family man, Sion’s greatest priority in life was his wife and two daughters. Whether it was dropping them off at school or teaching them to surf, Sion never lost his focus as a father. himself over mountains of water that called to him. Whether there were sponsors or endorsement deals involved didn’t matter to Sion. He loved big-wave surfing and the thrills that accompanied it. Fear and all. That commitment that Sion referred to struck me. When conditions get sketchy, everyone is scared. It’s what guys like Sion do
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
61
“Yeah, there are moments where you get nervous. There are some times where you’ll be paddling into a really solid one and your brain is telling you not to do it, but something else just takes over.
in those situations that differentiates them from others that makes them special. With their heart in their throat and their arms churning through the water like a thousand oars, they commit. They put their head down, swallow hard, and simply go for it. When news of Sion’s death at Maverick’s made its way through our office, an eerie silence took hold. We had photographed him thousands of times and interviewed him often. He was always approachable, friendly, and smiling. He made our job easy. We beamed with pride when he garnered three magazine covers this past winter. We smiled and cheered when we heard that he had won $25,000 for the Vans North Shore Underground award. Sion’s commitment to a sport he loved had ushered him into the limelight. But that was Sion. A man that, above all else, embodied commitment. To his family, to his friends, to surfing, to himself. Sion was committed. You were an inspiration to us, Sion. We’ll miss you.
62
F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M
Photos: Glaser
You keep paddling. You just go for it.”
Having entered surfing’s limelight in his mid-30s, Sion Milosky jumped the pond to surf Maverick’s for the first time last year. Sion’s initial jaunt to the coldwater locale saw him dominate the session and earn the admiration of everyone in the lineup. When Sion drowned at the break in March, his passing reverberated through the numerous friends he’d made in the area.
F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
63
“It’s just a special wave to a lot of people.It lures you in. It’s crowded and it can be hard to get waves, but when you get one out there…it’s just hard to explain. It’s something special and you just want to keep coming back for more.” —Sion Milosky on the allure of Pipeline.
Baeseman
If you’d like to donate to Sion’s family, please go to www.Volcom.com or scan this barcode with your smartphone.
64
F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M
shoots
f8.0 1/640 iso 100
p h o t o:
Ha‘a Keaulana
“I was shooting this angle at The Eddie from the waterpatrol area and it was restricted to everyone else. I knew Andy was gonna go for this one and right when I was getting the shot a guy walks right in front of me. At first I was pretty mad but now I realize that’s what made the photo.” —Ha‘a Keaulana
66
F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M
Water Proof Sports Watch Featuring
the wire
Courtesy Volcom
Ion Technology
Oahu: In the realm of all things we’re pleased to announce, our friends at Volcom have added a second store front to their retail locations in Waikiki. The new location on Kalakaua sits right in the beating heart of Waikiki in the Princess Ka’iulani Shops. We’re sure the new location is going to be a huge success. The next time you’re in Waikiki, be sure to stop by and say whatsup.
By infusing negative ion
Find deuce brand watches at your closest In4mation & Local Motion locations!
www.deucebrand.com
877.44.DEUCE
info@deucebrand.com
Courtesy Rip Curl
technology, germanium and tourmaline into every deuce brand product, we have created the perfect active lifestyle sports device. At the core of the products design is an energy enhancement powered bracelet, that is waterproof, durable and contains the supreme functionality of your soon to be favorite watch. Kauai: Rip Curl and Pancho Sullivan headed out to the Garden Island of Kauai to host the first-ever Pancho Sullivan Grom Comp at Pinetrees in the quaint town of Hanalei. Held in conjunction with the Hanalei Surf Co., the event was free for all groms on hand and rained prizes like an outer island downpour. It’s great to see companies like Rip Curl and surfers like Pancho giving back to the groms like this. Can’t wait for next year.
Noyle
the wire
Courtesy HIC
Maui: One of Maui’s favorite sons, Ian Walsh, recently hosted his annual Menehune Mayhem contest at Hookipa on Maui. Ian, who’s become one of Hawaii’s most prominent surfers, has showed just what a class act he is by hosting this event. As a means to show that there’s more to being a successful surfer than just ripping, the event awarded competitors with categories like highest GPA. Congrats to the groms. We’re already penciling you in for future coverage.
Big Island: HIC has recently spread their retail wings and opened up a shop located at The Shops at Mauna Lani in the Mauna Lani Resort on Hawaii’s Kohala Coast. The opening party raged with locals and visitors turning out in droves to support the core surf shop. With live music on hand, ono food, and tons of free giveaways it’s safe to say that everyone who attended the opening had a great time.
Expires May 31, 2011
Expires May 31, 2011
Randy Rarick's Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction is on again this summer, taking place on July 22 and 23. Rarick is currently on the hunt for auction items, so anyone with a vintage surfboard or surf memorabilia that is 25 years or older should contact him at surfpro@ hawaii.rr.com. The auction only takes a 10 percent commission and the rest goes to the consigner, making this a great chance to make some money and also support as good cause as proceeds go to the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation Scholarship Fund. Do you have news from the Outer Islands? Well, we want to hear about it. Please send all of your Outer Island happenings to mull.jeff@gmail.com.
spaghettini
6/9/06
3:28 PM
Page 1
Open Daily from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm In the heart of Haleiwa
637-0104
Courtesy Etnies
Free Plugs
Proof that the folks over at Etnies are earnest about sustainability, their team riders recently ventured into the Costa Rican rainforest and planted 150 trees for the Etnies Rainforest. With help from the indegeniouis Maleku tribe, local Costa Ricans, and La Reserva Forest Foundation, the likes of CJ Ryan Sheckler, Kyle Leeper, Chris Del Moro, CJ Kanuha and Benji Weatherly, picked up shovels and planted the starters for the futre rainforest reserve. The project is rooted in Etnies’ Buy a Shoe, Plant a Tree program. According to Etnies, the program “is on track to continue planting 35,000 trees in the forest... Through this project and with the help from La Reserva Forest Foundation, a nonprofit organization dedicated to the recovery and preservation of indigenous tropical rainforests in Costa Rica, the new forest will help the Maleku tribe to replenish their reserve with the trees that once maintained their community before their land was destroyed by cattle farmers and a violent rubber-tree war that massacred many of their people.” To learn more, go to Etnies.com and search for the Buy a Shoe, Plant a Tree initiative. In the off chance you’re not already going to Freesurfmagazine. com every day, you may not have heard that we started a blog. We’re a little behind the 8 ball on that one, we know. Needless to say, we’ve been posting all sorts of random bits that give you an insight into the inner working of the magazine, updates on what’s coming next issue, and all of the odd videos that make the Internet so damn amazing. Download the QR reader and connect with us on Facebook by scanning the barcode to the right with your smartphone.
North shore
Automotive & truck repAir Dependable service Gasoline or Diesel repair Domestic or Foreign Call Jeff or Shawn 808 479-9081
kaleimaeole
handcrafted jewelry
Surf with a smile
Dr. John
Jones Dentistry
808 955 0058 1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814
The Finest Tobacco Accessories:
•
HOOKAHS
• Water Pipes • Detox • Cigars • Vaporizers • Awesome local glass • Tobacco Spoons & More!
Earth friendly Fine Silver Sunrise Shells and other designs available online at
www.96712jewelry.com or at the
North Shore CouNtry Market Open Saturdays from 8 am - 2pm
closeout Coming next issue Do we make movies or do the movies make us? We examine the role cinema has played in our first-ever Movie Issue.
Alex Gray, standing room only.
74
F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M
Baeseman
F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
75