Fsmv8 5

How To Make Your Own Surf Movie pg 28

who’s tops now?

Hawaii Takes on the World Women’s Rights (And lefts)

An Inside Look into the Making of the New All-Girls Nike 6.0 Movie

The Producers

Four Filmmakers Making the Cut

May V8#5 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

Free in Hawai‘i

Coco Ho

Photo: Jason Kenworthy

Check out the rest of the sequence at analogclothing.com

a n a l o g c l o t h i n g . co m

Free Parking We’d be dirty, filthy liars if we told you that being a surfer is all about the search for some sort of aquatic-inspired form of enlightenment. Granted, we’re sure that there are more than a few of you out there that have found your own form of Nirvana riding single-fins to the heavens, but for the rest of us, we simply surf because it’s fun. And as long as we’re being honest, there aren’t many things that will put a smile on your face faster than seeing a crisp, buttery image of yourself straightup ripping. Jaded, you say?

Maybe. But it’s honest.

Here’s Stephen Koehne, giving himself something to smile about.

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Baeseman

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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Contents V8#5 May 2011

Aperture

54

Aloha to the world

62

The Producers

You may say you read FREESURF for the articles, but we all know this is what you really want.

The Verizon Wireless Hawaii Junior Surf Team heads to Peru to compete at the ISA World Junior Games.

Do we make the movies or do the movies make us? In this feature, we profile four filmmakers with roots in Hawaii who are shaping your surfing life.

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Latronic

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40

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Contents V8#5 May, 2011

10. Free Parking Stephen Koehne, gets shot.

20. E d Note The ...Lost movies almost ruined Jeff Mull...in a good way.

22: Ask an Editor You ask, we answer. Pretty simple stuff.

24. Howzit This is the good life. Wish you were here!

28. H ow to Make a Surf Movie Ever wonder what it takes to be the next Taylor Steele? We lay out the groundwork for you.

34. L etter to My HomebreakSometimes you need to take pen to paper to confess your love. One man does it all for his homebreak. It's quite touching, really.

68. Freeplugs

There's a lot of little stories out there and we have a home for them. It's called Freeplugs.

74. C loseout Saying sayonara to winter, one painful wipeout at a time.

www.localmotionhawaii.com

OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace

V8#5 May

Coco Ho, on location somewhere in Indo shooting for the Nike 6.0 movie, “Leave A Message.”

Coco Ho Photo: Jason Kenworthy

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter

Free Thinkers

Clark Carroll, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Ryan Kelly, Albee Layer, Janna Irons

Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Jeff Hall, Enich Harris, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Tracy Kraft Leboe, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Allen Mozo, Zak Noyle, Carol Oliva, Pake Solomon, Kaz Sano, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Batel Shimi, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson

Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson

Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

A product of Manulele, Inc. 2011

Maui

Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

Editor’s note

Baeseman

cultural ponderings

Chris Ward...still Lost.

Influenced by Film When I was 14 years old, there was a movie I watched that nearly led to my downfall. And like most nefarious things that occurred when I was a teenager—for civility’s sake I’ll let your imagination run wild here for a moment—it was introduced to me by my best friend’s older brother. Now, more than a decade later, I can still vividly recall the night that this particular movie first flashed across my timid and impressionable eyes.

It was well past midnight when I showed up at my friend’s house and made my way into his living room. Already scattered about were a number of seedy older guys that I immediately recognized. They were a few years older than me and were the kind of degenerates that took pride in slapping groms. Seated in front of a glowing TV screen, they screamed, yelled, and sliced together the vilest slew of four-letter words you’ve ever heard. It was mayhem. Pure mayhem I tell you. And it was all fueled by whatever was on the TV screen.

“What in god’s name are they watching?” I thought to myself.

As I peered closer into this dog pit of a room, the first images I saw on the TV screen were of a man having his hair set aflame. His name was Randall, the movie was …Lost’s What’s Really Going On and the next few years of my life were spent being “less than pleasant” because of that movie. I must have watched that film and the ensuing follow-ups a thousand times. I marveled at how quick Cory Lopez could spin out

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of a reverse. I ruined hundreds of waves trying to do chop-hops like Wardo. I dreamed of surfing Lowers and would, on occasion, mimic the debauchery I saw in the …Lost movies. (Human hair was only sat ablaze once).

In the same way that the Momentum Movies had shaped the generation before mine, the …Lost Movies, for better or worse, molded me and my group of friends. We were sponges to the films. If Cory Lopez surfed Waimea shorebreak on a fish, then damnit, that was the thing to do. Just like the guys we looked up to in the movies, we raised hell at night. Like I said, we were impressionable sponges. The movies had shaped us. It was with that realization that we went to work building this latest issue. In our feature, The Producers on page 62 we introduce you to four filmmakers who are constantly influencing us and, hopefully, you as well.

And although they may not all have biopic films behind them (yet) we’re also taking you inside the Hawaii Junior Surf Team as they gear up and head to Peru to compete at the ISA World Junior surfing games.

We have our own crack crew of filmmakers embedded with the team as they hit the water and we’ll be turning all that dramatic footage into, you guessed it, a feature on our television show, Billabong Surf TV. Here’s to keeping you influenced. —Jeff Mull

JOSH MONIZ

Hawaii’s Biggest and Best Selection of Surf Gear

BACKDOOR

Photo: T. Moniz

GX Model by Eric Arakawa: 5’9” X 18.125 ” X 2.125”

Ala Moana Center

808-973-6780 www.hicsurf.com

post

If you don't know where this is, don't ask. But here's a hint: It's definitely not the North Shore.

Ask an Editor

You write in, we respond with sarcasm

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It seems like most of your issues focus a lot on the North Shore.

Isn’t there a lot more to Hawaii than just that area? ­­— Adam Turknett, 31, Oahu.

So you guys make a magazine about surfing, but I heard most of you don’t even surf. What’s the story? — Claude Maestro, 31, Oahu.

First off, I’d like to applaud you on reading FREESURF. It shows that you’re a special breed of surfer who craves beautiful imagery, captivating stories and well thought-out design…and most of all you like not having to pay for it.

So kudos, you stallion of a surfer, you. Anyway, I think you asked about why we focus on the North Shore so much. Have you been here lately? It’s pretty damn epic.

You have the best surfers in the world and they’re all within a bike ride from our office. So it has that going for it, which is nice. But in all seriousness, it’s just that time of the year, we’re already gearing up for our Town Issues and Neighbor Island Issues. So stay tuned.

There’s a gauntlet of non-North Shore stories that we’re working on now that winter is winding down.

—Ed

Who told you that? Who, damnit?

I want names! Well, of course we surf…often. At lunch. And before work. And after work. And sometimes during work. But if you’re implying that our staff is not made up of ex-pros, then you’re exactly right. Except for Mike Latronic, our publisher, I think the best we can muster up as a staff is a single NSSA win. But seriously, who told you that? —Ed

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Does Alana Blanchard have a boyfriend? — Sam Sneed, 13, Maui.

First of, let me preface this next sentence by saying you’re not going to like the answer. Yes, she does indeed have a boyfriend. He rips super hard, is terribly nice, and is destined for all sorts of great things. —Ed

If I’m gonna go for a long surf, what’s the best thing for me to eat before I paddle out? — Kira Simone, 20, Big Island.

Well, that’s a good question. We were actually wondering the same thing a few months ago. (Trust us, it’s not a dozen pancakes.) So we did some research and asked Sarah Stepath, a dietician based in Honolulu, what we should be stuffing our maws with before we shred: Before a surf session, it’s important to not go out on either a full or empty stomach.

Having a meal high in complex carbohydrates, such as whole wheat and protein, will keep you full and energized while you surf. Try to avoid anything with too much fat and grease because these are more difficult for your body to digest and you may regret it while you’re in the water. —Ed What advice would you guys give to someone who wants to be a pro? — Solomon Cruz, 18, Oahu.

First off, I guess I’d ask how old you are. If you’re over the age of 15 and the path in front of you isn’t already littered with sponsors, you might want to consider working on a Plan B. In all honesty, we’re a big fan of Plan Bs. We all can’t be pros and that’s actually a good thing. In short, by all means keep surfing you’re little heart out, but there’s a great, big world out there waiting for you. Enjoy it. —Ed It seems like Carissa Moore is one of the nicest humans alive. Is that really what she’s like? — Mandy Downy, 13, Maui.

In a word: yes. Carissa Moore may very well be the modern embodiment of aloha. Having seen her grow up from a wide-eyed grom into the positive, well-spoken role model she currently has become, we literally can’t say enough good things about her. So word to the wise kids: If you’re looking for a role model in surfing, look no further than Carissa. —Ed

Epes

What Say you?

sections / ca u ght i n th e act

3

2

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Heff

1

xx

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howzit

4

1. If this image doesn’t make you want to surf, nothing will.

2. Apparently, people still use these things.

Brianna Cope, going retro.

Latronic

3. Hawaiian surfing royalty.

4. Zeke Lau, serious face, serious place .

5. Mike Pricket, riding shotgun at Pipe.

6

5

6. Team Hawaii takes a break from training for the ISA World Junior Games to crack a few smiles.

7. Mikala Jones, running for cover.

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8

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7

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8. The future of women’s surfing in Hawaii remains sound with Alessa Quizon in the game.

sections Drewtoonz

In step with our feature on the release of the new girls’ 6.0 movie, Leave a Message, our friend Andrew Miller, AKA Drewtoonz and the man behind the legendary Johnny Stone, put together this strip on the girls leading surfing next evolution for your enjoyment. For more on Drewtoonz’s work, go to NorthShoreCartoon.com.

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sections Reeling inspiration

Vertra Sunblock

Mac Powerbook

Final Cut Pro

Cannon 7D

Tripod

5 things you need to make a surf movie

How To Make A Surf Movie So you wanna make a surf movie huh? Welcome to the club. With the ease and affordability of video and editing equipment these days, it’s becoming easier for anyone to get a start making their own surf movie. What follows are some tips and basics to get you on your way with your very own surf movie.

First and foremost, you need equipment. You ain’t shooting anything without a video camera and a computer to edit your footage. There are many options to go with here; low-end, high-end, full-blown Hollywood…its up to you how much you want to invest. On the lower level, a basic consumer HDV camera from Sony, Canon, or Panasonic (among other brands) will do the trick and run as low as $400. Of course that’s not to say you can’t go even cheaper but lets try to maintain some level of production quality. On a somewhat higher-end, the Canon 7D has gained a lot of popularity among the industry and gives you the option of photos and video. Add on lenses to the camera body you’re in the $3000+ range.

Aside from a camera, the most important piece of equipment is hands down a decent

Now all you need is someone who can rip.

Yeah, that’s right, we brought the ticker back // Video is the

We don’t all have access to the best surfers at any given time so think outside the box here…not everyone can be Taylor Steele.

Develop a concept, find and angle, and get creative! tripod. The more you invest here the better; that is if you want to have buttery smooth panning on your surfers. Again, many options here but a fluid pan head is best.

Lastly, you’re going to need a computer and editing program to piece together your surf movie masterpiece. This may end up being the most expensive component but a must to bring it all together. The industry standard is an Apple Mac system with additional Final Cut Pro editing software, again a bit on the pricy side. All Macs do come with iMovie though, which can actually do a lot. If you’re a PC person, Adobe Premiere Pro is great but again there are cheaper options as well including Windows Movie Maker, which can come pre-installed on most systems.

So, you got all your equipment, now what? Shoot! And it doesn’t have to be the best pro surfers either. While pros definitely rip, colorful characters from you home break can also make for an interesting story.

We don’t all have access to the best surfers at any given time so think outside the box here…not everyone can be Taylor Steele. Develop a concept, find and angle, and get creative! Follow these tips and you’ll be well on your to becoming a surf movie maker. —Tyler Rock new photograph // Under no circumstance is a waterproof iPod

sections

What I know

Sequence: Heff

Jesse Merle Jones

It’s safe to say that Jesse Merle-Jones knows a thing or two about the grueling demands of a life lived on the ’QS. Having spent nearly a decade hunting 4-stars across the world, Merle has more than earned his stripes as a veteran competitor. So what’s a fella like Merle do with all that knowledge? He passes it on to the next generation, of course.

• When I was growing up, no one had a coach—that was out of the question. Sometimes you need someone to tell you that you’re kooking it. I wish someone would have coached me more when I was young. Sometimes there’s something so simple and easy to correct that you just can’t see yourself.

• It’s a different game than when I started out as a pro. The Internet’s changed everything. If you’re a grom today, you know exactly who the best young surfer in the world is right now. That wasn’t always the case. You had to go to Nationals to figure that out.

• It’s like growing up like Tarzan. You go to the beach, make fires after you surf, ride one board all year in big, powerful waves…that’s what it’s like growing up on Kauai.

• When you’re young and you’re trying to figure it all out, you need someone to show you which path to follow. If I could do that for the next

generation, that would be really fulfilling to me.

• When I was younger, we were all so worried about just getting to the contest on time, finding enough people to share a hotel room to bring the cost down. You’d stress about your rent-a-car getting scratched or your boards getting beat up by the airlines. Now, a lot of the guys have people that handle all that stuff for them.

• Doing the ’QS, even though it’s a complete nightmare, was the best time I ever had. It’s such a shit show, but you’ll still have the time of your life. I’ll never forget it.

• I think I blocked all the bad memories out of my mind. I just try and block that shit out.

• If you’re gonna live in Hawaii as a pro, you’re gonna have to travel a lot.

This is a job; you can’t just sit around all year.

• For the most part, I’ve done everything that I really set out to do growing up. These last years of my career feel like a bonus. That’s why I want to give back and share what I’ve learned.

• That being said, I still have a few more things I want to do. I still want to win a big event in Hawaii.

allowed in the lineup // Surf at lunch // Anyone can do a grab rail cutback, but it takes a whole mess of talent to do one

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sections soul Surfer

Soul Surfer An Inside Look into Bethany Hamilton’s Hollywood Film

After the highly publicized release of her biopic film Soul Surfer, there’s a good chance that Bethany Hamilton is the most famous surfer alive right now. As surfers, the story of the shark attack that claimed the arm of one of Kauai’s strongest up-and-coming surfers has been engrained in our collective conscience. We’ve become familiar with Bethany and the moving way she overcame the attack to become one of the top female surfers alive today. We know this story. But now that Hollywood has taken hold of it with the film Soul Surfer, the whole world has become acquainted with Bethany’s inspirational life.

With a bevy of Hollywood stars acting in the film (Anna Sophia Robb plays Bethany, Lorraine Nicholson plays Alana Blanchard, and Helen Hunt and Dennis Quaid play Bethany’s parents) it would have been easy to expect the movie to come across a bit hokey. Fifteen minutes into watching the film, and it was clear that Soul Surfer was the most successful representation of surfing we’ve seen since Big Wednesday. The surfing in the movie looks legit—both Bethany, Alana, and other female pros surfed in the movie— and the film finds its footing when representing surfing’s lifestyle.

Moreover, the film represents values and role models young women and adults alike will be inspired by.

Overall, Soul Surfer succeeds on a number of fronts. The film was well received across the nation and finished a very respectable fourth place in its opening week. By in large, the sport was well represented and on an inspirational level, you’d have to have ice water running through your veins to not be moved by Bethany’s story.

Overall, Soul Surfer succeeds on a number of fronts. The film was well received across the nation and finished a very respectable fourth place in its opening week.

right // Check the surf often // Small boards are in.

le t t e r

to

m y

homebreak One Man’s Love Affair with His Local Lineup

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Baeseman

By Henry King

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Dear Homebreak, I love you because you’re so close, to well, my home and because you’re a freaking wave magnet!

You attract swells from so many directions: north wraps, south swells, east swells. I wonder how many waves here I’ve ridden—9,999 sounds about right, but who’s counting?

I

t’s great that I know so many people in your lineup. Often, I know everybody. Surfing with people you know, my friends, makes surfing that much better.

You know, you remind me of my favorite pair of slippers. My footprint is embedded into your walls, tubes and sections, worn deep after so many years of traveling along your textured surfaces. Your waters are so familiar and necessary to me that the paddle out is more a meditation than a physical endeavor.

I know which way your currents go, when to paddle hard, when to let you do most of the work. You’re great on low tides and high. On low tides you’re steeper, thinner and faster, more precarious. On the high tides you’re longer, fatter, more forgiving.

I know how the wind reshapes your face, like makeup you apply, a brush stroke of wind from here or there and you go from beauty to beast and back again. Then there are the days you want to be alone. If you had a playlist, the song I imagine you’d be jamming

on those blown out, victory-at-sea days when nobody’s out, is Hendrix’s “Voodoo Child.” When you’re “like that” I leave my board in the car, run the beach, and pick up rubbish.

Do you think of me as I think of you when I’m far from your shores? Probably not since you lack a brain. Although, maybe that big black rock sticking out like an old buoy is your brain, your heart, your soul.

I’ve learned how to spot your best waves.

They rise up fast out of the east, sucking the water off the already shallow reef. They form a wedge with a looming hop-over west section with a long rippable wall.

Then the Holy Grail ride: a 200-yard odyssey from the far-east corner all the way to the sandy beach. To snag one I need to have excellent wave sense and/or be lucky. A steep drop, a bottom turn; I load up tension between board and water, unload, speed up, pick a line. If I do all that successfully, I go up then down, past the big rock, sometimes over it. Next, I zig and zag into the insanely shallow reef portion. I need to be ready to pull my chute, my backup plan, because you may decide to shut things down abruptly.

Of course you can scare the shit of me; like when you suck in those big, Nor’easter swells. I

Baeseman

I confess: I find it necessary to leave you now and then for another break. After all I’m only human. hang off to the side, away from the pit and watch for a while. I screw my courage to its sticking place, until I’m ready to have a go on one of your bombs. When I do connect the dots and kick-out at shore break, I look back at the swath of water I just traversed, and I swear, a few times, I heard angels singing.

Occasionally I underestimate a steep drop that leads to a body jarring, embarrassing face plant. In short, you hurt me. I come up, dazed, confused, occasionally bleeding. Why? I ask, but I get nothing for my mental inquiry, except perhaps a few nasty set waves on the head.

I confess: I find it necessary to leave you now and then for another break. After all I’m only human. I simply tire of going left all the time. I need more rights in my life. However upon my return, you hold no grudges. Instead, you welcome me back with open arms, maybe an open barrel!

So my dear home break, each morning I enter your parking lot, survey the lineup, grab my board, and paddle out. I sense you. Within that big, foreboding, jagged rock, I see your heart, your soul. I see a wedge expanding, rising from the east. Heart thumping, I turn, dig deep and catch my 10,000th wave—but who’s counting?

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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Girls

Club

I

By Janna Irons

An Inside Look Into Nike's new film, Leave

A Message All Photos Jason Kenworthy

n May, Nike 6.0 will unveil their new all-girls surf movie that’s been two years in the making. A high-performance, high-action flick, Leave a Message, aims to convince any skeptics that the girls’ ability level is not what it used to be. I sat down with three of the film’s stars—Coco Ho, Laura Enever, and Monyca Byrne-Wickey—to get a preview of what’s expected to be the biggest female surf film in the last decade.

There’s a new gang in town. From left to right: Malia Manuel, Lakey Peterson, Monyca Byrne-Wickey, Carissa Moore, Coco Ho, and Laura Enever.

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Laura: It’s just because I’m from Australia, and I’m 19 and legal! All the rest of them are from the States, they’re like “No, we’re underage, we can’t drink. We have to wait until we’re 21.”

And I’m like, ‘I’ve been clubbing for a year!’ So I get on there and I’m crazy.

FS: So did they go to all your hometowns?

Laura: Yeah, I’m pretty sure in my introduction there’s me going out with all my friends and having a dance, Monyca’s is in Hana, Coco is getting chaired around the North Shore wearing a princess crown [laughs]. No, I’m kidding.

She’s just cruising around with her Starbucks.

Carissa is walking through the city, Malia is on Kauai, and I think Lakey is on the skate ramps and trampoline in her backyard. It gives an insight into where we live and our lifestyle.

FS: What makes a girls surf movie like this one unique?

The term “surf like a girl” just took on a new meaning. Carissa Moore, shifting stereotypes.

Freesurf: How did the idea for the movie come about?

Coco: We were on a trip with Carissa, myself, Laura and Monyca, and Kenworthy [Nike photographer] was like, “We’re going to make a girls movie.’ We were like ‘Okay, we’re making a movie.” Then the next year we did so many trips—he came to Snapper, we did another Indo trip, a Mexico trip—and it totally became a real production.

Laura: It will be really cool to see the outcome,because this whole time we’ve been like, “Is this really going to happen?” They’ve been doing a lot to make this the best women’s surf movie ever.

FS: Why do you think other companies with girls teams haven’t made a girls movie?

Monyca: I think other companies really hadn’t done it yet because usually the girls teams don’t have much of a budget, and I think Nike saw it as a really good opportunity to make something happen in the surf world.

Laura: Lots of teams have endless amounts of girls, but we just have six girls on the team, so they could give us all our own individual parts.

And we’re all so different, and they really want to show the world who we are as individuals as well as our surfing and our backgrounds.”

FS: Tell me about the cast of the movie.

Coco: We all play a different roles in surfing.

Lakey’s the youngest and the newest too—she came aboard kind of late, but she definitely caught up and got clips pretty fast. She wasn’t on Tour, so she had a lot of time to film and I

think that shows. She’s super progressive and does sick airs. Then there’s Malia who’s not on Tour either, so she put her time in too getting clips. She’s just so graceful and easy to watch.

Monyca: She’s Team Mom. She always has everything. This last trip I had to leave early and she packed me an Emergen-C and Wet Ones and a trail mix bar in my backpack.

Coco: Then there’s Monyca. She’s the first girl with Nike. She’s the best person to be on a trip with—she surfs so well and she’s so positive and happy. When you’re having a bad session, Monyca is always there to cheer you up.

Laura: Monyca is just a super cruiser—chillest girl ever. Wouldn’t say a bad word about anyone.

She’s up for anything, will just go with the flow.

She’s the veteran, she teaches us all the life lessons. And she’s just so much fun.

Coco: Carissa was just head-down, focused the entire two years of filming. I give her the most credit for sure. She probably has enough footage to make her own movie, and she’s just being nice and letting us be in it. She’s always pushing us, going a little higher, going a little faster, going a little more straight up. I was the only one who was on Tour for both years, so I was definitely the straggler, trying to catch up and get clips.

Monyca: Coco is a little gossip girl, but she’s super fun and a really good dancer. She always has a lot of really fun stuff to say.

She’s the friend—she’s friends with everybody.

Then Laura is the crazy one. The super fun, adventurous one.

Coco: Then there’s Laura. She actually did a trip to P-Pass that I didn’t do and I think her best clips are definitely from there. She charged.

She proved to everyone that she has no fears whatsoever. And she has a lot of personality and is not ashamed of anything.

Coco: Our first Indo trip, Carissa’s dad made challenges to do on the flat days. Being on a boat trip, you just surf too much and you start to lose it. The challenges were sick: we borrowed the Indo guys’ canoes—they’re so hard to control—and we had to race around the boat.

Michel [Bourez] was on that trip and he was dumping trash cans of water on us so he could tip our boat. We had Kenworthy chucking water balloons at us. The canoes were rocking and the paddles sucked, but that was the only challenge I won. Then we had a sumo challenge. Carissa got hip-slammed by Monyca. We were all writing off Monyca, like, “On the skinny toothpick is not going to do anything to us!” Some of the challenges got a little personal. Like we had a Talking Trash challenge where we all sat in the front of the boat and bashed on each other.

Every one was a joke, but to every joke there’s truth. It was kinda gnarly. After the Talking Trash challenge I just looked at Laura and was like, “You’re mean.” Laura definitely won that challenge. I think they’re going to put that in the bonus section.

Laura: Oh and then we had this one where we had these little hermit crabs and we all painted them and put them in a circle and whoever’s crab got out would win. Carissa’s dad had been planning all these challenges ahead of time and brought all this stuff with him. All the boys on the boat we’re so jealous because they wanted to be in the competition—they tried to sabotage all our challenges.

Monyca: And every single night we had to wear these princess crowns, and if you didn’t wear your princess crown then you got points taken off.

Coco: We always tried to keep it fun on our trips, not like every guys surf trip. We definitely added the girly flair, and I think the challenges will show that. Every trip had a dance party. Maybe every night. Boat trips, it was a guaranteed dance party. It never really felt like work.

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I think the guys started to realize, “Wow, I can have a girlfriend who likes to do the things that I like to do and can hang and surf and understand me.” You understand each other a lot more.

FS: What kind of impact do you think this movie will have on women’s surfing?

Forget the bikini, Laura Enever’s escapades at P-Pass transcend the sexes.

“We’re just so into being feminine girls, and then as soon as we get in the water we want to rip as hard as we can.

And we’re all hooked on surfing and we can admit that to the world. It’s like, ‘Whatever guys, we like to surf too so you’re just going to have to get used to that.’ ” —Coco FS: How is your generation different from past generations of female surfers?

Laura: Coco sits there and does her nails every day on the boat—she’s obsessed about it—and we wear makeup and do our hair, and we’re just so into being feminine girls, and then as soon as we get in the water we want to rip as hard as we can. And we’re all hooked on surfing and we can admit that to the world. It’s like, “Whatever

guys, we like to surf too so you’re just going to have to get used to that.”

We got a group of girls who are just more confident in being girls. We’re kind of stepping away from the whole “surfer look” as well. I’ve surfed in stockings and dresses. I think this new generation is just so different. The way we want to approach life and surfing is a lot different from what it used to be for sure.

Monyca: I don’t think it’s just the girls though.

Style, talent, charisma, and class, Malia Manuel has come to signify the modern professional surfing woman.

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Laura: Hopefully a really amazing impact on women’s surfing. The main thing women’s surfing needs right now is something to push it, something to make it more recognizable in other industries and in the media. Hopefully we’ll be able to break out and have other sponsorship opportunities come to us from outside the surfing world. Most of all, I just hope it inspires the younger girls to get out there and surf so we can have a lot more girls in the water. If we can make girls feel comfortable being in the ocean, I think that’d be the coolest thing ever.

Coco: I haven’t seen a girls surf movie since the Bill Ballard ones—and those were amazing—so I’m really looking forward to this.

Monyca: It’s really highlighting us in a really good way, not just in the way that people are used to. It’s showing us in all angles. It’s going to show girls they don’t have to be a tomboy surfer, they can go surf and be a girl and love themselves for that. That’s why the movie is called Leave a Message because we want to leave that message.

Laura: I think once they see this they’re going to be like, “Wow. This is the real deal. Women’s surfing is going places.”

Monyca: And it’s not just this movie, Bethany’s movie and Blue Crush 2 are coming out at the

“It’s going to show girls they don’t have to be a tomboy surfer, they can go surf and be a girl and love themselves for that.

That’s why the movie is called Leave a Message because we want to leave that message.” —Monyca same time, so hopefully this will get people excited about girls surfing again. And that’s what it needs right now.

Laura: The industry has backed off, and we’ve only been left with six events on the World Tour this year and it’s sad, so hopefully this will give other companies will take notice and maybe want to sponsor events. The surfing level for the girls is like it’s never been before and it’s exciting. Girls are just starting to do airs. Girls are charging huge waves and towing in and I feel like our avenues are endless right now.

TS N E PRES

IE V O RF M

SU S ’ N ME O W A

MONYCA BYRNE-WICKEY

DIRECTED BY JASON

LAURA ENEVER

KENWORTHY

COCO HO

MALIA MANUEL

FILMED/EDITED BY AARON

CARISSA MOORE

LAKEY PETERSON

LIEBER NIKE6.COM/LEAVEAMESSAGE

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Jamie O’Brien may have missed out on winter swells due to a broken arm, but here he is at Backdoor in late spring, finishing strong.

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Ikaika Kalama, standing up for what’s his.

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Kalani Chapman, barreling through yet another perfect barrel.

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Flynn Novak, turning aerial surfing on its head.

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CJ Kanuha, elevated.

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Ehitu Keeling

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Makua Rothman, taking the scenic route.

Announcing the return of the Quiksilver Waterman Collection 6th Biennial Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction

A classic collection of Island-influenced vintage surfboards, Hawaiiana and surf memorabilia.

July 22 & 23rd, 2011 • Blaisdell Center, Honolulu Featuring ancient Hawaiian wood boards, Alai’a boards, Waikiki vintage redwoods, hollow paddleboards, balsa planks, Waimea full guns, Sunset semi’s, transition shapes, early shortboards including twin-fins, fishes, Lightning Bolts’, 70’s single fins, 80’s new wave boards and other unique Island shapes.

Plus, Island-inspired surf art, photos and one-of-a-kind surf collectibles.

Friday, July 22nd, 2011 Want to know what your surf stuff is worth?

Bring it in for a free “Antiques Road Show”® type appraisal - 12 Noon to 4:00pm, Galleria Hall Saturday, July 23rd, 2011 Doors open at 10:00am • “Silent Auction” 1:00pm to 3:00pm, Galleria Hall “Main Auction” 4:00pm to 7:00pm, Pikake Room Admission Free Historical Items

30/40’s Wood boards

50’s Balsas

60’s Transition 70’s Lightning 80’s New Wave Longboards Shapes Boards Bolts

Surf Inspire Art

Surf Magazines

Surf Decals

Hawaiiana

Travel Posters

A benefit for the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation - Scholarship Fund and The Surfing Heritage Foundation

Produced by Hawaii Surfing Promotions. For more information and to Pre-register, contact:

www.hawaiiansurfauction.com

or contact Randy Rarick, Hawaii Surfing Promotions, P.O. Box 460, Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712 • (808) 638-7266 • Fax: (808) 638-7764 • surfpro@hawaii.rr.com

An Inside Look into the Surfers Representing Hawaii at the ISA World Junior Surfing Games

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Aloha To the world

Ambassadors of aloha As the Hawaii World Junior Team embarks upon their mission to compete at the Quiksilver ISA World Junior Surfing Games in Peru, they’ll be doing so as a unified team forged together by a simple ethos. Above all, they want to represent Hawaii in the best manner they can and uphold Hawaii’s highest ideals. Aloha, respect, passion, and teamwork are but a few of the traits they’ll steadfastly hold to when they hit the water in Latin America. But when they do hit the water, watch out, because they’re wielding quite the roster this year.

Of the stacked team, the junior squad is going to be particularly tough to beat this year as Kalihi’s Zeke Lau, Ewa Beach’s Keanu Asing, Kauai’s Kaimana Jaquias, and Hawaii Kai’s Isaiah Moniz are all looking razor sharp.

Each of these surfers has proven that they’ve got what it takes to hold their own against the best young juniors in the world. To boot, they’ve all got great heads on their shoulders and are true competitors in the highest sense of the word.

For the boys, we’ll have our eyes on Kauai’s Koa Smith, Maui’s Ian Gentil and Kain Daly, and Molokai’s Kaoli Kahokuloa. Koa, who’s found

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success at these games before when he finished with a bronze medal last year, is looking as steely as ever while Ian has proven that his arsenal of aerials are second to none. Kain Daly has shown that he’s one of the most versatile surfers on the team as well. We’re also thrilled to see Kaoli among the ranks. The young Hawaiian is quickly maturing into an amazing allaround surfer and individual. Trust us, you’ll be hearing a lot more from him in the future.

Rounding out the rest of the team are a bevy of young girls that are sure to make their mark on the world stage. They’re a young group, but they’re full of potential. So definitely keep your attention honed on Brianna Cope, Mahina Maeda, Bailey Nagy, and Tatiana Weston Webb when they hit the water in Peru.

As the world team moves to finalize the last bit of details before they head out to the games, we’d like to extend a special thank you to all of the sponsors who make this journey possible every year. Without your support, Team Hawaii wouldn’t be a reality. Imua! —The Freesurf Staff

Ezekiel Lau

Aloha To the world

Keanu Asing

November 23, 1993 Kalihi, Oahu

Junior Squad

Latronic

Baeseman

May 30, 1993 Ewa Beach, Oahu

Keanu Asing is no stranger to the podium. Over the course of his junior career, the Ewa Beach native has won nearly every accolade under the sun in Hawaii.

On an international level, Keanu made headlines when he won the world junior title in 2009 at the ISA World Junior Games in Ecuador. With one gold medal behind him, you can rest assured Keanu will be gunning for another one.

With one of surfing’s most fabled pedigrees behind him, Kauai’s Kaimana Jaquias has all of the earmarks of a future great. Remarkably smooth in the water, like his other counterparts, Kaimana has found competitive success on the national level as well, as he’s the current NSSA Open Men’s national champ. If you’re looking to see a smoothas-butter approach to a heat, watch Kaimana don a jersey.

Coming from one of Hawaii’s greatest surfing families, Isaiah Moniz has been steeped in the sport since he was old enough to get on a board. All that time in the water has paid off in spades as he’s the current NSSA Regional Men’s and Explorer champ. Isaiah is one of the most powerful surfers on the team. If conditions at the contest call for power and rail work, expect Isaiah to shine.

Isaiah Moniz

February 26, 1993 Lihue, Kauai

May 25, 1994 Hawaii Kai, Oahu

Baeseman

Kaimana Jaquias

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As one of the nation’s premiere young junior surfers, Honolulu’s Zeke Lau is as ferocious in a heat as he is impressive in a freesurf. With a bevy of accolades behind him (Zeke is the Explorer Men’s NSSA national champion) Zeke’s become a veteran on the team and will use his experience to guide the squad’s greener members. Focused, strong, determined and remarkably talented, it’s going to take a lot to derail Zeke when he hits the water in Peru.

Boys Squad

Aloha To the world Kain Daly

Jaunuary 2, 1995 Kilauea, Kauai

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Koa Smith

Dave Nelson

February 22, 1995 Kuau, Maui

Kauai’s Koa Smith found himself in surfing’s limelight at an early age. With his characteristically quick wit and even quicker backside hack, Koa has been gracing the glossy pages of magazines the world over for years. Recently, Koa’s surfing has matured considerably with the tow headed goofyfoot tapping into an arsenal of power surfing. To boot, Koa proved that his breed of surfing is on par with anyone in the world as he found himself with a very respectable bronze-medal finish at the games last year in New Zealand.

Hailing from Maui’s northern shores, Kain Daly has one of the most progressive peer groups in surfing shaping his approach in the lineup. One quick glance at Kain tearing the heart out of a wave and you’re quickly left with the revelation that this kid means business.

Powerful, smooth, and progressive, Kain seems to develop more as a surfer with every session.

Ian Gentil burst onto the world scene when a video of the young gun from Maui went viral across the Internet two years ago. In the ensuing time, Ian has found himself carrying the progressive surfing torch on Maui, and has become current under 14 US Champion. If the lineups in Peru provide a few ramps, look for Ian to let loose and shine in the air.

It’s only a matter of time before Kaoli Kahokuloa finds himself thrust into surfing’s center stage. Humble, determined, and extremely talented, Kaoli has all of the earmarks of a future great. In the water, Kaoli seems to be most comfortable when he’s whipping airs. The embodiment of aloha and full of potential, Kaoli will be one of Team Hawaii’s greatest assets both in and out of the water in Peru.

Ian Gentil February 12, 1996 Paia, Maui

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April 16, 1995 Waianae, Oahu Erik Aeder

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Kaoli Kahokuloa

Girls Squad

Aloha To the world Mahina Maeda

Bailey Nagy February 4, 1996 Rocky Point, Oahu

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Latronic

February 15, 1998 Sunset Beach, Oahu

As one of the North Shore’s next great female surfers, Sunset Beach’s Mahina Maeda is laying all of the tracks necessary to move herself towards a successful career.

Having claimed first place in the under 12 girl’s division at Nationals, Mahina has shown that she’s extremely adept in a heat. When the heat horns blow in Peru, we’ll be looking toward Mahina to do some damage.

When Bailey Nagy takes to the lineups in Peru, she’ll be doing so with some of the finest coaches the North Shore behind her. Trained by Pancho Sullivan and Myles Padaca, Bailey has benefited tremendously from having two North Shore legends in her corner. While competing at the games in Peru, you can expect Bailey to hold her own against anyone the world has on offer if the surf gets solid.

The lush North Shore of Kauai has produced another young surfer oozing talent and potential in the form of Tatiana Weston-Webb. Although she’s barely a teenager, Tatiana has already found degrees of competitive success. In 2010, Tatiana made her presence felt when she claimed two titles in the US Championships and won the Women’s Pipe Pro.

Another Garden Island girl with a big future ahead of her, Brianna Cope has been steadily laying the groundwork to break onto the world scene with a host of solid competitive showings both on the mainland and in her native Hawaii. Look for Brianna to shine the most if Peru offers up some rights with open walls.

October 8, 1994 Koloa, Hawaii Heff

Brianna Cope

May 9, 1996 Princeville, Kauai Rock

Tatiana Weston-Webb

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coaches

Aloha To the world 1

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Rainos Hayes / Head coach

Tom Carey

Freesurf: How did you get involved in the Hawaii Junior Surf Team?

RH: I got involved with the junior team in 1996 when I became the assistant coach under Ben Aipa. In 1998, the whole thing landed in my lap in Portugal and I’ve been working as the head coach ever since.

FS: What’s your favorite aspect of working with the team?

RH: My favorite things is to watch them progress from Hawaiian amatures into elite athletes.

FS: How would you define success this year?

RH: Success at the games to me means representing Hawaii as a nation in a positive way.

Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, and to have our team represent Hawaii well is our goal.

We’re there to to do our best and ultimately win, but along that journey our athletes will bring out a lot of aloha. More to give than receive, strong and humble, like the Duke.

Kahea Hart / coach

Freesurf: Can you talk about your responsibilities for the World Team?

KH: As one of the coaches for the world team, it’s my responsibility to help make sure we represent Hawaii in the best way possible. When we set up at Peru for the games, there’s going to be two different podiums, so we’ll be splitting up the coaches for that with Rainos at one podium, and me at the other.

Fs: You’re also involved in the strength training as well, correct?

KH: Yeah, I work a lot on conditioning the team and making sure we’re in the best shape we can be in when we get to Peru. Before each heat, I’ll make sure that everyone is properly stretched and physically ready to perform their best.

Fs: What’s the most rewarding thing about being a coach on the team?

KH: For me, the most rewarding thing is watching some of the surfers I’ve coached maintain our conditioning program as they move forward with their career.

It’s a great feeling when someone picks up on just what a difference training can make in your surfing.

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Freesurf: You were a member of the Hawaii Junior team before and now you’re one of the coaches. What’s it like being on both sides of the equation?

JS: I really enjoyed being on the team when I was younger and I really enjoy coaching the team now. I really like working with the other coaches and being able to help out with a lot of the younger kids on the team?

Fs: What’s been the most rewarding part of being a coach?

JS: Well, this is my first year, but overall, I really enjoy trying to help the kids be the best that they can be, both in and out of the water.

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Joel Centeio / Past Champion

Freesurf: What did it mean to you to win a gold medal for Hawaii as a junior?

JC: Yeah, I won my gold medal at the Junior World Games in 2000 in Brazil where I was surfing against three other Brazilians in the final. But winning a gold medal for Hawaii was a major accomplishment for me and it meant everything.

Fs: What did winning a gold medal at the games do for your career as a surfer?

JC: Winning that event really worked as a slingshot for my career. From there, I really went on to start the career that I have today.

Fs: What advice would you give to today’s World Team members?

JC: Most of all, I’d stress that they need to pace themselves. It’s a long event, so don’t wear yourself out too early.

Aloha To the world

Logistics

If you’d like to stay up to date on all of the happenings on the Verizon Wireless Hawaii World Junior Surf Team, you can find them on Scan this code with your smart phone to Facebook or through see video of the team Freesurfmagazine.com/ training. blog. Needless to say, it is an enormous undertaking organizing and funding the team as they travel halfway across the globe to compete. Without the substantial help from the supporting sponsors, the Hawaii team wouldn’t be a The left hand point at Señoritas. reality. We’d like to give a huge mahalo to Verizon Wireless, HSA, Town and Country Surf, HIC and Local Motion. To learn more about team Hawaii, please go to www.hawaiisurfteam.org. To learn more about the ISA World Games, please go to www.isasurf.com.

ISA / Marotta

peruvian gold

HSA

HAWA I I S U R F I N G AS S O C I AT I O N

Want to know where Team Hawaii will be competing in Peru? Here's a quick overview of the two primary breaks at the venue:

B. Senoritas

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Overview: Classic left-hand point.

Best Swell Direction: A north-northwest swell sets Senoritas ablaze.

Best Size: The lefts fire the hardest with a head-high to overhead size swell.

Best Winds: Just like Caballeros, you’re looking for an east wind at Senoritas.

Best Tide: Low to mid times are what this point craves.

Overview: A right-hand point renowned as one of the best lineups in the region.

Best Swell Direction: The point comes to life during a west and southwest swell.

Best Size: Caballeros begins to work when the swell breaches a foot but turns on the most in the head-high to overhead range.

Best Winds: Easterly winds favor the point.

Best Tide: Caballeros is most in-form during a medium tide.

Things You Should Know

About the ISA

World Junior Games 1. T here have been a total of three Hawaiians to win a gold medal at the ISA World Junior Games. (Joel Centeio, Tonino Benson, and Keanu Asing.)

2. H awaii has been competing at the games since the game’s inception.

3. The top countries to watch at the games are Aus., USA, France, and ZA. 4. T he last time the Hawaiians won an International Gold medal was in 2005.

5. T he defending Under 18 Men’s champ is Brazil’s Gabriel Medina.

6. K eanu Asing and Koa Smith are the only two members of the current team to have won an individual medal at the games 7. There will be two different lineups— Caballeros (a right) and Senoritas (a left)— utilized during the event.

A A. Caballeros

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8. H ead Coach Rainos Hayes has been working with the Hawaii Team for 15 Years 9. H awaii has been a consistent podium finisher at the games with a second-place, silver-medal finish at the last two junior games.

10. T he last Hawaiian female to win a medal was Alessa Quizon in 2010, who narrowly lost out on the gold.

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Producers The

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Innersection winner maui, Hawaii

Through an ever-so-subtle southern-toned and pidgin-tinted accent, Elliot Leboe describes what it’s like to document the surf culture on Maui. Through his eyes and digital lenses, Leboe, who moved from Texas to Maui more than 15 years ago, has made a point in his career of not pigeonholing himself as solely a shortboard cinematographer and nothing else.

In part because of the sudden and gusty winds that sweep across the Valley Isle, he’s spent the last 15-plus years shooting all types of surfing. Windsurfing, kiteboarding, and the high-octane variety of shortoarding that we all adore have all been his subject at one time.

“Because the surf on Maui isn’t always as good as it is on the North Shore, I’ve shot a lot of different groups on Maui,” Elliot says. “Not to say that Maui doesn’t have her fair share of good days—because believe me, she does—but if you want to shoot a lot over here, you need to be able to shoot more than just shortboarding.”

With a foundation built upon diversifying his subject matter, Leboe’s unique eye behind the camera has made him one of Maui’s most adept cinematographers. Recently, Leboe’s name gained traction in the media when he produced the award-winning Innersection segment for Matt Meola. The clip, a stellar mixture of lifestyle and action that captured the essence of the surfer, set the new standard for segments in 2010. From there, Leboe found himself working on yet another Innersection segment for yet another talented but unsung surfer from Maui, Albee Layer.

“Yeah, we’re pretty excited about Albee’s part. It’s not going to be your typical segment. This one has more of a metal feel to it so we’re trying to do something a little different than what you’d expect.”

When he’s not in the editing bay with Albee putting the final touches on what will undoubtedly be an inspiring clip, Elliot also works closely Ian Gentil, one of Hawaii’s brightest young juniors, as his primary filmer. With an explosion of talent booming from Maui, we’re just glad to see there’s someone like Elliot on hand to capture it all.

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Filmmakers Making the

Cut

Tracy Kraft Leboe

Elliot Leboe

Dave Homcy Film Guru Oahu, Hawaii

Heff

You may not know Dave Homcy’s name, but if you’ve watched a surf film in the past 10 years, then you undoubtedly know his work. Whether it was changing the course of what constituted a surf film in the late ’90s with his work on September Sessions, his contributions to the much heralded A Brokedown Melody, or his latest work on a music video with Eddie Vedder, Dave’s unique perspective has shaped and matured surf filmmaking remarkably.

Although his first venture into the film industry arose when he worked on a production crew in Miami, Florida shooting 16 mm commercials for the military, Dave’s real introduction to shooting surfing arose when he moved to Oahu and met Sonny Miller who took him under his wing and hooked him up with a water housing. A natural behind the lens with a self-proclaimed infatuation with the beauty of shooting in film, it didn’t take long for Dave to find work on various projects produced in the Islands.

As Dave’s work gained notoriety throughout the industry, he began to truly find his niche working with Chris Malloy and Jack Johnson on the film September Sessions. “For a long time, surf movies were really defined by a lot of action and quick edits,” said Dave. “When Septem-

ber Sessions came out, I think we really changed that.” In the following years, Jack Johnson’s career as a musician began to take center stage.

Although Jack remained involved in various projects Dave began to fill his shoes behind the lens would eventually take on the role of the director of production.

In his latest venture, Dave is working with Keith Malloy on an upcoming film about bodysurfing entitled Hell or Highwater. The movie, set to premiere by the end of the summer, has taken Dave from Fiji to the West Coast to New Zealand and New York and will surely showcase the sport in the telling and immaculately shot manner that has forged Dave into the filmmaker that he is today. By bringing art back to filmmaking, Dave has taken surf cinematography to a new pasture and furthered our collective understanding of how to document the sport.

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Ryan Moss

California’s Ryan Moss is a filmmaking workhorse of sorts. A quick glance through his tattered and worn passport tells the story of a man who has spent more time on the road in the past year than he has at home. As one of the lead filmers for Fox clothing, the past 12 months have seen Ryan touchdown in Mexico multiple times, Hawaii, the Phillippines, the Caroline Islands, the East Coast of the U.S., and a slew of other off-the-map locales. To boot,

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Ryan also produced the final Innersection segment for Santa Cruz’s Nat Young—a feat that helped bring his name to the surf industry.

Although Ryan has had a love affair with filming and surf cinematography since he first viewed Andy Irons’ segment in Momentun: Under the Influence, it wasn’t something that he invisioned making a living off of until a few years ago.

“I’d been into shooting and editing as

a hobby for a while, but I didn’t fully try and pursue it as a profession until a few years ago. I was actually training to be an EMT and I was at the beach when someone drowned and I ended up working on the guy to get him breathing again. But after that experience, I learned pretty quickly that it wasn’t something that wanted to do. So from there, I renewed my interest in filming and I’m really grateful that it’s taken me to where I’m at today.”

Nat Young

Innersection Finalist/Filmer for Fox San Jose, California

Tyler Rock

Producer and editor of Billabong Surf TV Sunset Beach, Hawaii

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Halfway through his first semester as a Business major at the University of Hawaii at Manoa, Tyler Rock knew that something was amiss. With all the classes that he dragged himself through and the late nights buried in textbooks, Tyler couldn’t shake his dreams of making surf videos.

“When I grew up on the Big Island my friends and I would always shoot each other and make short little videos. I was already really interested in making surf movies, so when I got to college and began studying business, it just didn’t feel right,” said Tyler.

“I gave it some thought and decided to switch majors to Communication with a focus on video production.”

Fast-forward a few years and Tyler’s working as the lead videographer and editor for the monthly TV show, Billabong Surf TV. As Tyler will tell you, the job has taken him across the world multiple times over. But don’t be fooled: Tyler’s life isn’t completely defined by jet-setting and shooting perfect waves. “Yeah, I don’t spend as much time traveling and shooting as people might think. Although I do go on a few trips a year, I spend a lot of time behind a computer logging and editing footage. And to be honest, I really enjoy doing both—I love capturing a really good wave and being at ground zero for all the action, but I also really like being able to piece together segments for a new show and get creative while editing.”

When asked what advice he would bestow upon someone looking to get involved in making surf films, Tyler is adamant that above all, the job requires patience. “There’s a lot of time in the sun and a lot of time in the studio. It’s not like you can just snap your fingers and produce a segment or a movie. It really does take a lot of time and work. But when you finish a project that you’re happy with, it’s definitely worth it.”

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shoots

f5.6 1/1250 iso 100

p h o t o:

Isaac Frazer

These waters are super sharky, and the drop off from the beach break goes down to the depths very quickly. Black water right off shore. Most people see this wave on the Big Island from the cliffs looking down. I prefer this view. —Issac Frazer

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In early April, the Kamehameha Schools Surf Team held a private screening of Soul Surfer—the Hollywood adaptation of the Bethany Hamilton story—as a fundraiser for the Sion Milosky’s Memorial Fund. Milosky, 35, tragically drowned while charging giant waves at Maverick’s in March and is survived by wife Suzy and two daughters. Volcom and Vans setup memorial funds for Milosky’s ‘ohana, which inspired the Kamehameha Surf Team to organize the movie screening at Kahala Mall theaters.

“The goal of screening Soul Surfer was to raise funds for the family of Sion Milosky who was a big part in the surfing community,” says Zeke Lau, a junior at Kamehameha Schools Kapalama campus and the anchor of the surf team. “Sion played a big role on the North Shore by pushing the limits of big-wave surfing. I always looked up to him for surfing Pipeline because he always took things to the next level out there.”

Professional surfers Jason Shibata, Nick Mita, and Kekoa Uemura came to the screening to show their support. Also in attendance were surf contest commentators Beau Hodge and Kaipo Gurrero who both appear in Soul Surfer as well as master board-builder and Bethany Enich Harris

We’ve Got Hawaii Covered New T-shirts Now Available From Freesurf, Hawaii’s Surf Magazine.

On the Garden Island of Kauai, there are few events that draw more joy out of the island than the annual Irons Bros. Pinetrees Classic. For more than a decade, this event has been the next best thing to Christmas on the island with nearly every young surfer on Kauai carrying a special memory of surfing in the event in front of their idols. But this year, with the passing of Andy Irons, it would have been collectively understood if the event had run its course.

Taken a year off. But that’s not the Kauai spirit. When everyone would have understood that it was too much, too soon, the Irons Ohana banded together and put on the best event to date. The rosters were stacked with towheaded groms brandishing braces and beaming smiles and there was enough swell on tap to keep everyone frothed.

As has become par for the event, there were enough giveaways and prizes to stoke out all of Hanalei Elementary School. The FREESURF team would like to tip our hats to the Irons family for once again going above and beyond with their aloha for Kauai’s young surfers.

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Kamehameha surf team members sold tickets movie tickets for $12 and raffle tickets for $2 a piece. Zeke Lau raffled a signed Bushman shortboard alongside product kindly donated by Volcom and Fitted. After paying for the cost to rent the theater and screen the movie, the team managed to raise $500 for the Milosky ‘ohana. The Kamehameha Surf team is also planning a recycled surfboard drive campaign in May to raise additional funds to make a second donation to the Sion Milosky Memorial Fund.

en

We’re stoked to announce that Haleiwa is now home to Universe Juice. If you’re around Haleiwa and are looking to refill after a surf, definitely check out one of their smoothies or salads.

Although summers in Hawaii are marked by longer days, stickying heat, and flat spells, that doesn’t mean that you still can’t surf every day. Well, almost. Our friends over at SurfSkate have produced a skateboard that simulates the feeling you get from surfing on a wave.

With a rotating front truck that pivots 360 degrees, riding the board is the closest thing you can get to surfing on land, making it an ideal way to kill a flat summer’s day.

We’re saddened to report that surf photographer Bryan Cabalce tragically passed away in April. Cabalce, who was 25, was a stalwart at Sandy’s and other breaks where he stood out as a talented water photographer who specialized in shooting bodyboarding. Our hearts go out to his friends and family. You will be missed, Bryan. A hui hou.

INDOBOARD AVAILABLE AT:

Aloha Board Shop ■ Bike Factory Hawaii ■ Hawaiian Island Creations ■ Hawaiian South Shore ■ Wet Feet Store ■ Big Island Surf Shop ■ M. Miura Store ■ Hi Tech Sports ■ Polynesian Paddling Products W W W. I N D O B O A R D . C O M

■

Kalani Vierra photos: Gibber

Free plugs Since our friends over at DaKine were so gracious in their support of this month's giveaway, here's what you'll need to do win the pictured leash and traction pad. Fill in the blanks below and send your answers to mull.jeff@gmail.com.

I deserve to win because: _______________________________ Some of the world’s best big-wave surfers traveled to San Clemente, CA, on April 30 for the secondannual Big Wave World Tour (BWWT) awards presented by Jim Beam Bourbon. The North Shore’s own Jamie Sterling was crowed the 2010/11 Big Wave World Champion based on his top placements in three major Big Wave events in Chile, Peru, and Oregon during the 2010/11 BWWT season. The event was MC’d by tour surfer Anthony Tashnick. After the awards, the celebration moved to the O.C. Tavern where "Skindog" Collins launched his new website, ChasingMonsters. com.The BWWT brings together a selection of the top big-wave surfers from around the globe to take on the most extreme waves. Organizers monitor weather conditions to identify when each event will take place, providing riders with only 48-hours to arrive at the break and compete.

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So long winter, we’ll miss seeing moments like these. TJ Barron, flying.

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