Honolulu: The Other Surf City
This Could Be You Surf be tter No w ppggxx 22
June V8#6 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM
Free in Hawai‘i
12 Hours of Perfection The Deep South: Revisiting Tahiti the Ha‘a Keaulana portfolio
Matt Meola
Photo: Epes / A Frame
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Free Parking
More than a decade ago, Laird Hamilton sucked the wind out of the surf community when he towed into what many have called the wave of the decade out at Teahupoo. That wave in particular changed the game forever and ushered in a new, and decidedly more dangerous, chapter in surfing’s history. Since then, we haven’t slowed at all and we’re constantly pushing forward. Always forward. Just ask Mark Healey.
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Jerome Lyser
F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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vanssurf.com
Š2011, Vans Inc.
The Del Norte: Surf Sider style and comfort in a mid-top. Designed in colaboration with our riders, the Del Norte features either 100% natural hemp or premium, weather-treated pig suede uppers atop our super comfy Vanslite footbed.
Contents
Kanoa Dahlin
V8#6 June 2011
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City Slickers Want to know who’s turning heads and hustling in the city these days? We’re profiling two surfers who are moving Town forward.
36 An insider’s perspective The Ha‘a Keaulana portfolio. 50 Noa Noa Redux We’re leaving Town for a moment to focus on our southern
sister islands in Tahiti. From poisson cru to Teahupoo to a right with a name we dare not mutter, we’re taking you back to Tahiti.
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12 Hours of Perfection In the opening installment of this new series, we’re chronicling our version of what constitutes a perfect day in Honolulu. From Bowls to Diamond Head and all of the gems in between, grab your collared shirt, some SPF 45, and your comp leash, cause we’re going to Town.
Latronic
Contents V8#6 June, 2011
10. Free Parking Mark Healey charges harder than you. Way harder. 20. Ed Note Go to Town. 22: Ask an Editor Want to surf better now? The secret starts right here. 24. Howzit The most candid moments of the month, placed on a page for your viewing pleasure. 32. Shaping Bay with Pyzel The man behind some of Hawaii's most sought after boards speaks his mind. 62. Spotlight Keanu Asing is on fire. Again. Surprised? Yeah, us neither. 64. Shoots A picture to whet your aquatic pallete. 68. P au Hana Duncan Campbell. Get to know the man behind the bonzer and one of the North Shore's favorite coffee shops and restaurants. 70. Freeplugs The Battle for the Paddle, all the gear to survive your next lunchtime surf session, Randy Rarick's fabled surf auction, and more. 74. C loseout An unknown Tahitian, a barrel, and more spit than we know what to do with. Welcome to Teahupoo.
www.localmotionhawaii.com
OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace
Matt Meola, upwardly mobile.
V8#6 June
Matt Meola Photo: Epes / Aframe
Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter
Free Thinkers
Clark Carroll, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Ryan Kelly, Albee Layer, Janna Irons
Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock
Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Jeff Hall, Enich Harris, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Tracy Kraft Leboe, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Allen Mozo, Zak Noyle, Carol Oliva, Pake Solomon, Kaz Sano, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Batel Shimi, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson
Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson
Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Expires June 30, 2011
Expires June 30, 2011
Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm. A product of Manulele, Inc. 2011
Maui
Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea
Big Island
Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa
Oahu
Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani
Kauai
Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove
Editor’s note cultural ponderings
Go To Town Let’s talk Town for a moment. Let’s talk about a true Surf City. The real Surf City. The first Surf City. Let’s lie awake at night with visions of days spent kegged at Bowls and late nights spent raising hell on Hotel Street. Let’s fall in love with Town all over again. Let’s marvel that there’s a place where you can be on the phone with New York in the morning and Hong Kong in the evening and mix in a lunchtime surf session in between. Let’s appreciate Honolulu’s story. Let’s talk about her history. Let’s talk The Duke, Queens, Waikiki’s Beach Boys, and Rabbit. Let’s talk about Carissa Moore, Zeke Lau, and Gerry Lopez while we’re at it. Let’s talk about traffic. Let’s forget about traffic. Let’s talk money. Fame. Hawaii 5-0. Let’s talk about East Honolulu. Let’s not. Let’s talk about the smell that massages Hawaii back into your senses when you arrive at the airport in Honolulu. Let’s talk tourists. Let’s talk about surfing’s beginning. Let’s talk progress. Let’s talk future. Let’s talk Town. —Jeff Mull
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Coco Ho demonstrates the proper duck-dive. I’ve seen a lot of different people duck-diving in a lot of different ways. Some people use their knees to get out of the dive and some people use their foot. What’s the correct way to do this? Darryl Goddard Kona, Hawaii Well Darryl, that’s actually a pretty interesting question seeing that we’ve been noticing the same thing for the past few decades but never really gave it much thought. That being said, we went around and did some research and came up with some answers: As a rule of thumb, you should always propel yourself out of your duck-dive with your foot, and never your knee. The answer is actually twofold: Firstly, you can get more leverage out of your duck-dive if you propel yourself back towards the surface with the ball of your
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foot. Secondly, you’ll do a lot less damage to the deck of your board if you're pushing down on the tail area with the cushion of your foot versus the bone of your knee. Always use the ball of your foot to come out of your duck-dive. —Ed
I’m in the military and just got stationed over here and want to take my kids surfing. Where is the best place on the island to learn to surf?
I want to get into taking surf photos, is there any advice you can give me?
First and foremost, there are a number of places that can give you the perfect entry into the sport. Waikiki is pretty much a staple and there aren’t many cooler ways to be introduced to surfing than through the Beach Boys down there. That being said, there are also a number of surf schools along the North Shore as well. As long as you’re taught by someone who has a knowledgeable background and the conditions are ripe for learning, you should be good to go. —Ed
Tiara Bowens Wailuku, Maui Well for starters, you should check out FREESURF magazine monthly, look at every photo, read every article, and visit all of our sponsors on the web. Then, apply the fundamentals of photography to the pursuit of epic waves and pristine conditions and add in someone who absolutely rips, and you’ll have yourself something worth publishing. Guaranteed. It’s that easy. —Ed
David Brown, Honolulu, Hawaii
If there’s one thing the average surfer can do to surf better, what would it be? Matt Edmonds, Kilauea, Kauai Whenever we’re confronted with questions like this, we opt to let the professionals (quite literally) handle the answers. Here’s what Jesse Merle-Jones had to say: The one thing that could improve your surfing more than anything is watching video of yourself. Get a buddy to trade off,bribe your girlfriend, or lure an injured soldier into sitting on the beach. Once you have seen what you look like and seen your strengths and weaknesses, you can vividly picture your improvement. Good luck.
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1. Anastashia Ashley, statuesque. 2. Tatiana Weston Web gets her game face ready for the ISA World Junior Games in Peru. 3. FREESURF’s own Tyler Rock literally worked himself to death. xx
4. Kaimana Jaquias, keeping his chin up. 5. Cheesburger with a side of Mason Ho.
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8. The families that surf together, stay together.
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7. You want to surf here, you’ve got to do the Rock Dance.
Tammy Moniz
6. W e’ll be honest. It looks like you’ve put on some weight in your thighs.
sections Ryan Kelly The Waterman
the faces of town
Things happen in cities. New York. LA. Des Moines. Honolulu. Okay, maybe not Des Moines. But you get the drift: The cities are where ideas matriculate into reality, where food is served round the clock, and where it is considered the norm to be up all night hustling to make things happen. With that in mind, we scoured our address book and contact list to find two surfers who keep the city alive in Honolulu. Here are there stories.
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Heff
mid a windswept lineup surrounded by a sea of nauseatingly poor conditions, Ryan Kelly paddles himself out to Lighthouse for an afternoon session. Halfway out to the scrum of folks bobbing along the reef, it begins. At first, it starts with a nod and a simple “whatsup” but then the one-on-one chitchat evolves into an all out bro-down. Ryan, it seems, is friends with everyone in the lineup. And I mean everyone. From the 60-year-old woman on the bodyboard to the tat-riddled guy on the thruster, Ryan is on a first-name basis with them all. Simply put, the man is social, and as the marketing manager for Vitamin Water, it’s a trait that has served him well. Calling the dense streets of Kaimuki home, Ryan, who originally hails from California, has been a staple in the Town scene for some time. Ever cordial and always upbeat, you’d be hardpressed to find someone that’s not a fan of Ryan. “I’d say I’m a pretty social person for sure. With my job, I sort of have to be. Vitamin Water deals with such a mix of people that one hour I might be on the phone with someone organizing a 10K run and the next hour I’m working with someone in the surf industry. For me to be good at what I do, I have to be able to relate to a lot of people.” As Vitamin Water makes strides into the action sports world, Ryan is currently acting as a scout for future talent. Having already supported Roy Powers for years, the company recently signed Maui’s own prodigy, Ian Gentil to their team. “As the eyes and ears on the ground for the company, it’s really my job to know who’s blowing up, and I’m really psyched to be doing that.”
Matty Liu
Man About Town
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f there’s a man alive that has come to symbolize the essence of Honolulu more than Matty Liu, we surely haven’t met him. On a busy Thursday afternoon, Matty Liu casually walks into Chinatown’s Downbeat Diner for our interview. He sees me, takes off his retro Ray Bans and flashes the whitest of smiles. He grabs a seat, puts his phone on silent, and we get to talking about how a kid from Haleiwa went from being a pro surfer to a Hollywood actor to the face of Primo Beer in Hawaii. “I actually grew up in Haleiwa and started hanging out at the rec center and surfing up there. It just sort of grew on me and I got really into it. When I was a teenager and into my 20s I did the whole contest thing and had sponsors. But the funny thing was that I was always kinda into acting, even in high school,” he tells me, as his eyes dart from our
interview to the numerous texts blowing up his cell. “I eventually moved to Hollywood and did that and was pretty busy acting, but after a while, I just really missed Hawaii and being here. I think it’s the best city in the world and I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else.” These days, Matty still dabbles in acting and recently appeared in an episode of Hawaii 5-0, but his primary gig is as the marketing manager for Primo Beer. It’s a job that constantly keeps Matty on the go, but it’s also one that leaves him fulfilled. “I really love what I do now. I’m able to get out and meet with people and I’m not really tied to a desk at all. I can meet with clients and vendors in the morning, go for a surf around lunch, and finish another round of work in the afternoon. All that and I get to live in the best city in the world.” F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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Jon Steele
Carissa Moore
Can She Do It?
Carissa Moore Eyes Down Her First World Title We’re not too proud to claim one now and then. We’ll admit it. And no, we’re not referring to our last head-dip at Kewalos, but rather the blistering pace our gal Carissa Moore has been on this year. We’ve been watching Carissa— and to be honest, trying to dodge her spray—for nearly a decade now. And to see her evolve from the shy grom that she was into the champion she is today, well, it’s enough to bring a tear to an editor’s eye. At the outset of this year’s women’s World Tour at Snapper, Carissa took the first steps of her march towards world domination with one of the most inspiring competitive performances we’ve ever seen. Seamless rail work and full-speed reverses? Yes, please! If her performance at Snapper wasn’t enough to fire up the entire state of Hawaii, the lass went on to drop back-toback second-place finishes followed up by another pair of event wins. If this isn’t a surfer hitting her mark, then we’re not quite sure what is. Most recently, in the moments following her fifth podium finish of the season in Rio, Moore commented on her latest win to the ASP. Characteristically, she was just “having fun” securing her place as the most in-form surfer of the season. “I just went out there and had fun and to me there was no pressure in the final,” she said. “I was just stoked to be in the final regardless of how I finished. Obviously I’m happy that I won.” Moving forward toward the sixth event of the season, Moore has a comfortable 500-point-plus margin over Australia’s Sally Fitzgibbons. Statistically, Moore and Fitzgibbons are the only two surfers capable of winning the 2011 title. When the women’s tour makes their pilgrimage to Cotes des Basques, France for the Roxy Pro in July, Moore will have the chance to make history and solidify the result we’ve known she was capable of for years—winning a world title.
Moving forward toward the sixth event of the season, Moore has a comfortable 500-point-plus margin over Australia’s Sally Fitzgibbons. Statistically, Moore and Fitzgibbons are the only two surfers capable of winning the 2011 title. When the women’s tour makes their pilgrimage to Cotes des Basques, France for the Roxy Pro in July, Moore will have the chance to make history and solidify the result we’ve known she was capable of for years—winning a world title. In the coming months, as our fabled female from Honolulu tightens her grip on her first world title you can go to Freesurfmagazine.com/blog to stay completely up to date on the inevitable. In the meantime, you can sleep easy at night knowing that world title is once again within reach for Hawaii.
Forget hip-hop, Indie, and electronic, it’s all about Motown this year // Albee Layer, so hot right now, Albee Layer // The most
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progressive surfing in the world is happening in Brazil // Remember Carissa Moore? Yeah, she’s gonna win a title this year //
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s one of surfing’s holiest places, we all yearn for the barrel. We talk about it like it was an aquatic Graceland. We’ve dropped a million and one clichés about the moment we’re swallowed in the wave. To be blunt, the tube is the place to be. Getting there, however, takes a bit of skill. Here’s a few points to keep you shacked on your backhand. Pick the Right Wave: First and foremost, you’re going to be looking for a hollow wave that will allow you enough of a transition to set your rail. Don’t go overboard here and start practicing your backhand tuberiding at Pipe. On the other end, don’t try to pull in on every wave at Kewalos, either. Finding the right setup is paramount. If you’re a regular foot, we recommend Bowls. It’s All in the Stall: Once you’ve dropped into a wave that’s setting up to tube, stalling properly is paramount. If you don’t stall enough, you’ll wind up outracing the barrel; if you stall too much, the foam ball’ll swallow you. Enter the pig-dog. This low center of gravity position has the surfer crouch over his board while grabbing the outside rail with outside hand. The stall here can occur in two parts: either with your inside arm or with your butt, or in the case of an extreme stall, both. As you stall, you’ll want to keep conscious of how your weight is distributed. If you want to increase your stall and wait for the tube, simply lean back on your back foot. If you find yourself too deep and want to gain speed, you can come out of the stall by shifting your weight over your front foot and releasing your arm from the waves’ face. Pick the Right Line: Drawing an improper line in the barrel has been the undoing of many a glorious tube. Pull up too high and you’re going over with the lip; too low and you’re getting guillotined. Picking the right line has a great deal to do with the shape of the barrel. If it’s wide open and gaping, you have more room for error, but if the tube is almond-shaped , you’re going to need to tread lightly. We recommend a lower line as there’s more room for correction, but try and stay in the central part of the tube as much as possible. The Exit: If you’ve made it this far, the last thing you want to do is blow your exit. As a rule of thumb, it is entirely acceptable to stay in a pig-dog stance after the waves stops barreling in front of you. Whatever you do, don’t try and come out of the barrel too soon and take a lip to the head. You’re much better off staying crouched for a split second longer than you think. The Claim: Just don’t. You’re better off playing it cool. Trust us.
Kekoa Bacalso is going to make a comeback, we’ll
sections play list A quick sampling of beats from the FREESURF office The XX “Basic Space”
Shaping Bay: with Jon Pyzel As one of the North Shore’s premiere shapers, it’s safe to say that Jon Pyzel really knows his way around a planer. Recently, we caught up with Pyzel to see how he got his start, what keeps him inspired, and what it’s like cutting boards for John Florence. Freesurf: So how’d you get your start in shaping? Jon Pyzel: When I was younger I had a really great relationship with a shaper on the mainland. I would get boards from him and I generally had a lot of interest in what made the boards work. Like why they did this and why they did that. And I think my shaper thought it was pretty cool that there was a young kid interested in design. So that was sort of the start of it. From there, I moved to Hawaii when I was around 22 and I wanted to start shaping and being involved with the industry. I started off fixing dings and glassing and then finally bought a blank. I said to myself, “If this board doesn’t work out and turns out horrible then I was over it.” I’m a terrible artist so I thought that might translate into me shaping. But the board actually turned out alright so I stuck with it. FS: What keeps your job interesting to you? JP: I really love surfing. I surf every day. I surf with my kids, so to me, shaping just feels like an extension of that. Like it’s all a part of surfing. It keeps surfing in my life. It’s not a job; it’s a part of me. FS: How have you seen design change since you started shaping? JP: It’s been crazy how much it’s changed. When I first started shaping, Kelly Slater was riding these really narrow boards with a lot of rocker and of course that’s what everyone wanted to ride. So that became the board to get. We wound up getting those 6’1”
thrusters so dialed that it didn’t really change design a lot, and then we had the whole retro movement that had people really into the old-school boards. That was cool, but it didn’t really interest me that much because I’m more into high-performance surfing. But lately, and I attribute this back to Kelly Slater again, we’ve seen a lot of the boards go shorter and stubbier. And I think this is a great thing for surfing. Because everyone wants to ride what the pros are riding and this is the first time in a long time where you can do that and get away with it. The shorter, stubbier boards will work insane for a pro and for your average surfer. FS: Where do you see design going in the next 10 years? JP: That’s a tough one because design can change so much in that time. But in the future, I see people being willing to ride a wide variety of shapes that suit different waves. There’s a lot out there so it’s fun to experiment. You can get a totally different experience on a different shape. FS: You and John Florence seem to work really close together. What’s it like shaping for him? JP: I’ve known John for ages, since he was about 5 and his brothers were in diapers. So we’re pretty close. I’ve seen him grow up and evolve into the surfer he is today. The great thing about working with John is the feedback he gives me now that he’s a bit older. Now, he can get really constructive about why this board feels a little stiff or too loose and we can work on that. So that’s a great thing, being able to work with someone who surfs at that level and to get their feedback.
guarantee it // Unless he doesn’t, in which case the guarantee is void // But we’re pretty sure he will //
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Javelin “C Town” Peter Bjorn and John “Second Chance” Blonde Redhead “Not Getting There” The Celibate Rifles “Wonderful Life” Deer Tick “Smith Hill” Delta Spirit “Bushwick Blues” Fruit Bats “The Ruminant Band” Grizzly Bear “Two Weeks” Johnny Polygon “Riot Song” To Access this playlist online, and other music happenings, go to Freesurfmagazine. com/blog
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All reviews by Jordon Cooper Light the Horizon is the latest offering from Canada’s own Bedouin Soundclash. In all honesty, when I uploaded it onto my computer I had no idea what to expect. Upon first listen I was reminded of SOJA, The Clash, and a little bit of Neil Young. Who would’ve thought some relevant reggaelaced rock could come out of Canada? This is an eclectic effort that will make you want to listen again and again. Check out “Brutal Hearts” and “No One Moves, No One Get’s Hurt.” They’re as different as two songs can be on the same album. And according to reliable sources these guys put on a great live show.
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Find Longboard on tap and in bottles throughout the Islands and the West Coast
Bedouin Soundclash
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Check out our Pubs! KOna Brewery & pub 75-5629 Kuakini Hwy Kailua Kona, HI 96740 • 808-334-BREW (2739) KoKO mARINA PUB 7192 Kalaniana’ole Hwy Honolulu, HI 96825 • 808-394-KONA (5662)
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Brett Dennen Loverboy
I recently had the chance to see Brett Dennen live in LA. His tall stature, bright red hair, and signature glasses make him hard to miss. But don’t write him off as just a quirky redhead with a guitar. His talent as a young singer/songwriter is going to provide him with a long future in the music industry and on your iPod. This polished third album, Loverboy, is evidence that Dennen has worked hard and gained the support of his label. If you’re having a barbecue with the gang or just relaxing at home, this is the new album for you. Highlights include “Sydney (I’ll Come Running)” and the extra funky “Queen of the Westside.” His friends might tease him about the title of this album, but trust me, it’s legit.
Announcing the return of the Quiksilver Waterman Collection 6th Biennial Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction
A classic collection of Island-influenced vintage surfboards, Hawaiiana and surf memorabilia.
July 22 & 23rd, 2011 • Blaisdell Center, Honolulu Featuring ancient Hawaiian wood boards, Alai’a boards, Waikiki vintage redwoods, hollow paddleboards, balsa planks, Waimea full guns, Sunset semi’s, transition shapes, early shortboards including twin-fins, fishes, Lightning Bolts’, 70’s single fins, 80’s new wave boards and other unique Island shapes. Plus, Island-inspired surf art, photos and one-of-a-kind surf collectibles. Friday, July 22nd, 2011 Want to know what your surf stuff is worth? Bring it in for a free “Antiques Road Show”® type appraisal - 12 Noon to 4:00pm, Galleria Hall Saturday, July 23rd, 2011 Doors open at 10:00am • “Silent Auction” 1:00pm to 3:00pm, Galleria Hall “Main Auction” 4:00pm to 7:00pm, Pikake Room Admission Free Historical Items
30/40’s Wood boards
50’s Balsas
60’s Transition 70’s Lightning 80’s New Wave Longboards Shapes Boards Bolts
Surf Inspire Art
Surf Magazines
Surf Decals
Hawaiiana
Travel Posters
A benefit for the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation - Scholarship Fund and The Surfing Heritage Foundation
Produced by Hawaii Surfing Promotions. For more information and to Pre-register, contact:
www.hawaiiansurfauction.com
or contact Randy Rarick, Hawaii Surfing Promotions, P.O. Box 460, Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712 • (808) 638-7266 • Fax: (808) 638-7764 • surfpro@hawaii.rr.com
Ha‘a Keaulana p o r t f o l i o All captions by Ha‘a Keaulana
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This is a shot that’s actually really recent. My boyfriend is a really talented surfer and a great subject to shoot, so naturally a lot of my photos are of him. This particular photo was actually taken on the inside section at Makaha. I really like the moment that’s captured here; it’s got a lot of energy.
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There’s actually a really interesting story behind this image. There were a lot of alaias donated for my grandfather’s contest, the Buffalo Big Board event at Makaha, because we had a special division just for those boards. This was a shot I took after the event. It was really fun to see everyone out there using the old boards.
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t only 19 years old, Makaha’s own Ha’a Keaulana is already developing into an adept photographer. With one of surfing’s most fabled pedigrees behind her— the Keaulana family are akin to modern surfing royalty—Ha’a has never had any trouble finding a talented subject to shoot. A graceful and avid surfer herself, Ha’a first fell in love with photography just a few short years ago. In the ensuing time, when she’s not in the water surfing, Ha’a can be found diligently capturing the raw, rustic, untamed, and beautiful moments across Oahu’s West Side. This is her portfolio: an insider’s look into a land so close to most of us, but at the same time so removed. Welcome to Ha’a’s world.
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’ve always loved Tahitian dancers. It’s such a beautiful thing to watch. This photo was shot at Boogie Kalama’s funeral. The two girls came and danced and it was just amazing to see. I just love watching them perform. It was a real honor to see them dance for such a special occasion.
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love this photo. This is how we train on the West Side. Rock running underwater. There’s a lot of interesting elements to this shot, but for me, it’s the people in the image that make it. That’s Kaimi Judd in the front, then my dad, and then Malika Dudley from the news and Stephanie Lum who is also from the news.
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op right: This photo of the turtle was taken on the West Side where the turtles interact a lot with people. It’s a really popular area so they just kinda cruise and let you get close and snap a few photos. Middle right: There’s no place that’s more beautiful to watch a sunset than at Makaha. The water literally glitters in the late afternoon. This was a photo that I just happened to time right and the colors are truly beautiful. Right: I love being a photographer, but I’m still a die-hard surfer. It can be tough shooting perfect waves when you’d give almost anything to just get out there. This is an image a friend of mine shot of me out in the lineup. You can’t always be shooting; you’ve got to get out there sometimes.
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op: When the shorebreak at Makaha gets xxreally big, it creates a slope on the beach. At high tide, the shorebreak will rush over the ledge and give you an opportunity to take a few really unique photos. I took this one laying down in the sand from a pretty safe distance.
Middle: Makaha’s really known for its ba ckwash and it can create some really interesting moments. To me, the backwash on this particular wave always reminded me of a Marlin’s back. Right: What I love about this shot is how it sort of tells a story. The surfer is doing a really high-performance move on a really historical board. It feels like there are two worlds coming together.
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his spread is pretty interesting. It’s sort of two takes on aerials.
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he photo of the helicopter on the right was actually taken the day before they ran The Eddie. The news was flying all around shooting video and trying to hype up the upcoming swell.
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’ve always liked how the light shines through in these photos. It’s all about the light. A lot of times, you can see a lot of strange things in the way the water is moving. To me, it looks like popcorn.
f you know where this spot is, then you know how special this particular rock is. The composition of this photo is really appealing to me. There are so many different things happening.
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Painting a New Canvas in Tahiti
By Beau Flemister All Photos by Eric Baeseman
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When I was 19 I had some weird obsession with getting lost. I was high on Whitman and Thoreau poems and I truly wanted to “live deliberately.” I wanted to live simply. I wanted the South Pacific. I had a large 5’x3’ poster of Paul Gauguin’s Ia Orana Maria on my dorm room wall (at least my side of the room) and I’d sit there and stare at it; past the women and angels, and into the strange dreamland behind them. I wondered if it still existed. I wanted Tahiti. It was a name and place far more exotic than even my own home of Hawaii, a place that for most of the world was exotic enough. But no, Tahiti was purer, more mysterious, and raw. I enrolled in a Tahitian 101 course at the University of Hawaii for my language requirements. I would learn the native tongue—f--k French!—and gain mad respect from the locals. Hey…I was young. 50
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Despite parading through the idyllic islands of French Polynesia for a chapter in the original Endless Summer movie, the crew came up empty handed in Tahiti and left Bruce Brown famously quipping that there’s “no waves in Tahiti.” Here’s Raimana Van Bastolaer, not pulling into a beast…
I convinced my Big Island comrade and FREESURF lenseman Tyler Rock to come with me. We were going to Tahiti in August. But isn’t it expensive there? Nonsense! We’d bring and cook our own food, I got the hook-ups on Tahiti island, and for anything else, we’ll just camp. He agreed skeptically, but once the ticket was bought, any prior worries quickly burned away. We consolidated quivers into one bulging board bag, filled a huge Tupperware container with pots, pans, utensils, a camp stove, ramen, pasta, etc. and held our breaths as the gear hit the airline baggage scale. It was an easy overnight flight and when we stepped out of the plane and into the early dawn, the humid, floral-tinged air wrapped around us like cloaks. A close friend of mine from my
Tahitian class, Mana, was home for the summer and picked us up outside baggage claim. A Tahitian himself, I guess the class was an easy A. He went to UH on a golf scholarship (go figure) but also was a bit of a notorious party animal/ ladies’ man. He greeted us with a huge smile and a shirt on that read I’m Going Nucking Futz! We drove through the already bustling streets of Papeete to his girlfriend’s family’s apartment. The dad, Rodrigue, was a boxing coach and professional Tahitian dancer. His wife, daughter, and son were all pro dancers as well; all of them drop-dead gorgeous. They were all waiting at a loaded breakfast table when we arrived and we immediately got our first taste of poisson cru (raw fish dipped in coconut milk) not even an hour into the trip. Rodrigue asked me something
in French to which I replied in Tahitian Aita e parau parau te reo farani (I don’t speak French), and he got pretty damn stoked. Shortly after, we drove to Mana’s house, across the length of the island, to the town of Pueu on the north side of Tahiti Iti, opposite Teahupoo. Outside of the capital, Tahiti looked like the end of the road on Kaua’i. Mind numbingly gorgeous valleys every five minutes, towns and traffic so mellow that kids were playing on the road. Everywhere, coconut palms, breadfruit, banana, mango, and ironwood trees battled for position. Ti, hibiscus, tiare, and plumeria wedged between them. From Mana’s house, he dropped us off at the village of Vairao where a few of his friends took us by boat to the left out front. The wave was amazing and F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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funneled perfectly around the southern corner of the pass. The guys who took us out were super friendly and told us that they considered Hawaiiguys their far-flung kin, cousins, really. The following morning, Mana gave us his car and told us to drive until the road ended, and we’d be there. Teahupoo. Chopes. The wave that to any surfer is interchangeable with a whole nation. Because the wave was below sea level it was pretty hard from shore to judge how it was. So we just parked and paddled out. After about 20 minutes or so, we could see the surfers pretty clearly. A 6-foot set rolled through and Pancho Sullivan pulled into a gaping pit and was promptly spat out seconds later into the channel. The wave behind it was identical, and Raimana Van Bastolaer did the same. We worked our way into the small pack and enjoyed basically the best-sized Teahupoo you could ever ask for. Not too small, nothing too gigantic. We surfed until the tide killed it and it was just the two of us out. The next couple days we roamed the island by car, even surfed a beach break with Rodrigue, who surfed it in a loin cloth. But we were told
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we had to visit the neighboring island of Moorea while we were here, so first thing in the morning, Tyler and I boarded the daily ferry. I glared at the horizon and the dark silhouette of Moorea seemed to wink at me in the distance. We sat down on the bow and played Rummy and watched the island come into focus. Hours later we drifted into a dark, idyllic bay where the harbor was. It was breathtaking and quiet and the pace of life appeared even slower than where’d we’d just come. Upon arrival, there was no fan fare, I don’t even think a ferry office, and we kind of looked at each other like Sooo, now what? Someone pointed us to a bus stop and we lugged our gear to the spot. I climbed into le truck, opened my mouth, trying to remember the phrase “where is” in Tahitian, and the bus driver said Ha’apiti? Exactly. We rambled along the coastal road south, circumnavigating nearly half the island. We hugged the sides of Eden-like lagoons, saw no power lines, not one stop light, barely any other foreigners. We passed scant villages still asleep in the morning and smelled tiare flower
Above: You’d be tipping your hat to if you got shacked like this. Taumata Puhetini, ever courteous. Top right: A healthy chunk of the lineups in Tahiti require a shouldersearing paddle to get to, a fact that makes taking a boat to the lineup all the more appealing.
We drove through the already bustling streets of Papeete to his girlfriend’s family’s apartment. The dad, Rodrigue, was a boxing coach and professional Tahitian dancer. His wife, daughter, and son were all pro dancers as well; all of them drop-dead gorgeous.
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And you thought Tahiti was all lefts. Michel Bourez, right on track.
the best rights in the world” or “V-Land x3” for whatever that meant. We decided to roll the dice, caught a ferry back to Tahiti and left from Papeete the same day. We basically walked from the airport in Huahine to a pension that supposedly had a campsite. It did, and we put up the tent, waxed our boards, and walked another couple clicks to the reef pass. We could kind of see a right wrapping around a shelf seemingly as far out as the horizon. We hopped in and paddled the farthest we’d ever gone for a wave. We seemed to cross four or five different layers of sea floor and color. The soft turquoise near the shore, turning to deep sapphire, transforming to a shallow teal, turning translucent by the break. Though the waves weren’t quite big enough for the spot to live up to its legendary rep, there were still some great little barrels. We surfed nearly alone for half an hour, trading off punchy head-high rights and then for 45 minutes with a small local crew that arrived in a motor boat, until…Until I saw Tyler sort of paddling in on the inside. What’s going on? “That one dude told me to go in; he seemed
We could kind of see a right wrapping around a shelf seemingly as far out as the horizon. We hopped in and paddled the farthest we’d ever gone for a wave. We seemed to cross four or five different layers of sea floor and color.
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pretty pissed. What’d you do?” Tyler asked. “Nothing! I’ll go talk with him…” I paddled towards him, and respectfully caught his eye. Hey, I’m really sorry about my friend… Go in! Hey, I’m really sorry, did something hap… He turned instantly and paddled towards me, raising his fist. I quickly turned and paddled the long and shameful way into shore. So it goes. We paddled out a couple more times, deciding that if we saw the guy again, we’d apologize and risk the lickings. But we didn’t. And the swell was dropping by the day. We kept busy though and explored Huahine by mountain bike. We viewed sleepy lagoons from the heights of the inner mountains, walked next to ancient marae (their version of heiau) by the sea. But I don’t know if it was just the lack of tourists or the crawling pace of life there; the island had an odd, eerie feel to it. Ghost-townish. So after a few days, we returned to our friends on Tahiti. More than the surf, more than the valleys, more than the postcard mountains and lagoons, the most beautiful part about Tahiti was the people. Mana, Rodrigue, and their friends treated us like close family. The Tahiti we discovered was something far more beautiful than the enigmatic shadows of a Gauguin painting in that, for the most part, the place was so bright and hospitable. Heff
and cooking smoke incessantly. The driver stopped and two surfers darted across the road. We were there. Through holes in the brush I could see whitewater exploding on an outer reef. We walked down the dirt road opposite the shore, to the property from where the surfers came. We found the owner and he wanted five bucks a head to camp on the grounds: a glowing emerald meadow at the base of a misty valley. For the next few days we gorged ourselves on the 6- to 8-foot roaring lefts of Ha’apiti. We’d make the marathon paddle out to the reef pass twice a day, until we discovered we could borrow sea kayaks from the owner. We cooked a lot of pasta, ramen, and eggs in the evening and fell asleep satiated and wave-drunk beneath the silent, blinking stars. We surfed the length of the swell, even traded waves with the late Malik Joyeaux, but wanted something new. A right. A new swell was on the way and we’d heard stories about a fickle-but-incredible righthander on the island of Huahine. “One of
12 Hours of Perfection:
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Baeseman
Honolulu: A budding coastal metropolis dressed with a bounty of mouth-watering setups and steeped in surfing lore. Often overshadowed by her more voluptuous and northern sister, it’s easy to forget just how tantalizing a day spent in the city can be. But every summer, we rediscover jus what a bounty Town has on offer. With that in mind, we went to work sussing out our version of the perfect day in Honolulu. From the glitz and glam of Waikiki to the coziness of Diamond Head to the gruff streets of Chinatown, this is your guide to 12 hours of perfection in the city. 7:30 am. Saturday. Stumbling out of bed and scratching the sleep from your eyes, you make your way to your closet and throw on a pair of trunks and a t-shirt and crack a wry smile. It’s Saturday and there’s no work, why wouldn’t you be chipper? So you grab a backpack and throw in a pair of crisp dark denim jeans, your finest kicks, and a collared white shirt. You’re prepping for an all-day—and most likely night—mission throughout Honolulu and you’re gonna need to be ready for everything the next 24 hours can throw at you.
Randall Paulson, living it up in the city.
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A city by the sea.
12 Hours of Perfection:
Heading out of the house, you grab your new favorite sled, T&C’s M-1 model, and throw it in the bed of your truck and head for Town. The surf is 3- to 4-feet with light winds, it’s blazingly sunny, and today is already shaping up to be one to remember. As you hit traffic, you throw in the new album from Metric and get psyched for the morning’s upcoming session. As you get off the freeway toward Ala Moana, you stop and grab a quick orange juice at Jamba Juice. Back in your car and heading toward Magic Island, you meander past the early morning runners frolicking about. You park your truck and set your eyes on Bowls. It’s 4 foot and, for some reason, the crowd has yet to completely set in. You quickly grab your board, throw on some Vertra sunscreen and a fresh layer of wax, and sprint paddle across the channel to Bowls. 8:30 am As you make your way out to Bowls, you recognize a few familiar faces. Kekoa Cazimero and Randall Paulson are both out and are completely ripping. A lot of the boys are also in the lineup so you keep it mellow and snag a few insiders to get your blood warm. Lucky for you, your first wave connects all the way through to
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Heading out of the house, you grab your new favorite sled, T&C’s M-1 model, and throw it in the bed of your truck and head for Town. The surf is 3- to 4-feet with light winds, it’s blazingly sunny, and today is already shaping up to be one to remember. the inside and you tear the living hell out of the open face. Your new board feels epic under your feet and you can’t help but smile as you paddle back out. Back out in the lineup, you talk story with a few of the boys and catch a few insiders, but what you’re really waiting for is a set to sneak through the crowd. Half an hour later, it finally arrives. As you swing your board around, you take a few strokes into the wave and you can begin to see it funneling off toward the jetty. Grabbing your rail and sticking your arm in the face to slow down, you find yourself slotted and come through the barrel clean. You exit the wave with butterflies in your belly and begin the paddle back to the shore. It’s not even 10:00 in the morning yet and this day is already shaping up as one for the books. 10:30 am After your first session at Bowls, you’re straight-up ravenous and you call up one of your friends to see if he wants to meet you for breakfast. You head down towards Diamond Head to grab a bite at Bogarts on Monsarrat Avenue. Parking can be tough, so you decide to park up the street from the crowded lot and walk down. On the way, you see that your friend’s already got you a table out front. He asks how Bowls was and you fight back
the urge to claim your tube and respond with a humble shrug and say it was “pretty fun.” Inside the restaurant, you make your way to the counter to order from one of the half-dozen beautiful girls working. You glance at the menu and decide on an iced coffee and one of their famous Breakfast Bagels. With your food in hand, you walk to your table outside and devour your meal while you watch as this quaint neighborhood comes to life with people going about their business on this perfect Saturday. 12:00 pm With a belly chock full of bagel and coffee, you and your friend head on over to Surf Garage in Moilili to say hi to the shop’s owner, Toro Yamaguchi, and check out the new line of retro shapes in the shop. As always, a walk through Surf Garage leaves you inspired to ride a variety of shapes. Although you’ve got your eye on a Chris Christensen board, you opt to hold off till next time and buy a few bars of wax instead. Heading out of the shop, your phone rings. It’s your girlfriend and she wants to know if you’re down to cruise by the pool at the Halekulani for a few hours until
Ezekiel Lau
Keanu Asing
Kaimana Jaquias
Isaiah Moniz
Ambassadors of Aloha Mahina Maeda
Bailey Nagy
Koa Smith
Kain Daly
HSA
HAWA I I S U R F I N G AS S O C I AT I O N
Tatiana Weston-Web
Ian Gentil
Brianna Cope
Kaoli Kahokuloa
12 Hours of Perfection:
Heff
Jun Jo, holed up in the city.
As the session progresses, the crowd thins out and you get a couple of solid sets to yourself. The sun is quickly starting to set and you begin your paddle back to the shore, beaming a toothy smile. With two idyllic sessions behind you, this day just keeps getting better. she has to go to work. You’ve got a few hours until the tide fills in, so why not. Off you go. 1:30 pm Walking towards the Halekulani pool, you see that your girlfriend is already laying out by the water. You post up next to her and chill for the next few hours. Sometimes, doing absolutely nothing can be so fulfilling, you think to yourself. 4:00 pm After spending the last few hours roasting by the pool and hanging with your lady, you’re itching to get back in the water. The tide is perfect for Lighthouse and your friend just texted you that it’s firing. You make a quick
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exit back to your truck and hightail it towards Diamond Head. As you make your way past Kapiolani Park, you’re gunning to get back in the lineup. At the lookout, you can see the rights at Lighthouse spreading across the shelf. It looks head high and ripe for ripping. It’s a bit crowded, but what the hell. You grab your board, throw some more sunscreen on your face, and gallop down the trail and make the paddle out to the lineup. Out in the water, the conditions are nearly flawless and it feels like it’s getting glassier by the second. From the outset, you see a few of your friends and make your way into the lineup and begin trading off the rippable rights. For the next few hours, the sun begins its march toward the horizon and the sky takes on a softer, more relaxed
tone. As the session progresses, the crowd thins out and you get a couple of solid sets to yourself. The sun is quickly starting to set and you begin your paddle back to the shore, beaming a toothy smile. With two idyllic sessions behind you, this day just keeps getting better. 7:00 pm As the sun slips itself out of sight, you change into your collared shirt and jeans and drive toward Chinatown. You’re set to meet up with a half-dozen of your best friends for a night you won’t soon forget. Things are gonna get wild, but no matter what happens tonight, you’ve got one perfect day behind you. Here’s to tomorrow.
spotlight
Keanu Asing
May 30, 1993, Ewa Beach, Hawaii
Paul Fisher
Fox Clothing
If there’s one thing that we’re certain of in this crazy world, it’s that Ewa’s own prodigal son, Keanu Asing, has a major future before him in professional surfing. Now, what we’re saying may not be new (hell, he’s not only a past world junior champion, but he’s graced our cover and recently worked as our guest editor a few issues back) but what Keanu accomplished at the Oakley World Pro Junior at Lowers recently furthered his already stratospheric ascent to stardom. With the collective eyes of the surfing community intently honed at the lineup for the Nike 6.0 Lowers Pro and the Oakley Pro Junior, Keanu Asing was given an opportunity to prove to the world that he could not only hang with the best, but that he could beat them. And that’s precisely what he did. At an event marred by cheers of a California phenom named Kolohe Andino and the rise of a new Brazilian contingency, Keanu went to work and cut through them all. Staring down Kolohe Andino, Nat Young, and Australia’s Jack Freestone in the final, Keanu kept his composure. Despite needing a mid-range score to secure the win, Keanu failed to falter and came through strong and won the event. “This is huge, to win this big event. It’s a 5-Star, it’s one of the biggest wins of my career for sure,” Asing said. “I’m at a loss for words right now, I’m just so excited and so happy.”
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shoots
f8.0 1/1000 iso 200
p h o t o:
Paul Teruya
What you don’t see here is that half a second before this shot Alyssa Wooten had a big smile on her face because she knew she would be spraying me out with her cutback. —Paul Teruya
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from the Banzai PiPeline to the Banzai SuShi Bar
Keep it real Located in the North Shore Marketplace, Haleiwa Open every day non-stop from 12:00 - 9:30
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w w w. B a n z a i S u s h i B a r H a w a i i . c o m
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Pau Hana
For nearly three decades, hungry surfers and North Shore locals have flocked to Café Haleiwa to fill up after an early morning dawn patrol or to kickstart their days with a proper meal. Originally founded in 1982 by surfer/shaper Duncan Campbell (Duncan and his brother, Malcolm, developed the Bonzer shape that revolutionized surfboard design in the early 1970s) the family-run café prides itself on serving the community. Recently, we caught up with Duncan to get his take on what it’s like starting a business on the North Shore, working with a family, and still finding the time to squeeze in a quick surf. Freesurf: What’s the best thing about running a business on the North Shore? Duncan Campbell: For me, it’s the sense of community here. There’s nothing like building a business, serving the local clientele, and watching it grow. Café Haleiwa has been around for 29 years and it’s great to see people we served early on come back for business with their children. I really just love being part of the community. FS: When you were younger, did you ever envision yourself running a restaurant? DC: Absolutely not. It sort of just all came together, almost like a fluke. When I was younger and living in California, I never really even dreamed of living on the North Shore. It’s always been a place I wanted to surf and visit, but I never really thought too much about living here. And then I came over with my wife, Jacqie, and we really both fell in love with the North Shore and thought it would be a really great place to raise a family. So we moved over here, met a lot of really great people, and then we opened the restaurant. We noticed that there really wasn’t a place on the North Shore that served a California-style breakfast. So we went for it without knowing too much about running a restaurant, and it just sort of went from there.
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FS: I understand that your daughters are a big part of the business as well. Can you talk about that a bit? DC: Of course. My daughters, Megan and Noelle, have always helped out around the café, but in 2007, Megan opened up Bonzer Front next door to the café and then Noelle opened up the wine cellar in 2010. It’s been a great place for them to sell vintage clothing, wine, and some of our boards. Last year, under Megan’s direction, we opened up Café Haleiwa for dinner. It’s great to see them working with a lot of the people that they went to Sunset Elementary with. It all goes back to the sense of community that we spoke about earlier. FS: Do you still have the time to surf? DC: Yeah, I still manage to get in the water pretty often. I’m basically representing all of the Bonzer designs out here in Hawaii so I need to stay in shape and at the top of my game. I need to always be ready to surf with the best of them. FS: If someone wanted to start a business today and came to you looking for a word of advice, what would you tell them? DC: I’d say that there’s a trio of philosophy that you need to look into before you start a business. First, make sure you’re passionate about what you do, but you also need to be a realist. Don’t let the passion blind you and overtake reality. So be mindful of both of those things. The last thing I would say is to make sure that there’s a market for what you’re doing. Don’t try and create a market, it’s a lot harder to do than it sounds.
Heff
Five Minutes with Duncan Campbell
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As we were finishing up this issue, a press release came into our office from Xcel and the University of Hawaii that laid out the pairs plans to help fight skin cancer in the islands. According to the release, “Xcel and the University of Hawaii Cancer Center have launched a statewide skin cancer prevention campaign, with the debut of a new public service announcement video and over $9,000 donation from Xcel to the Xcel Skin Cancer Prevention Fund. Coinciding with May, National Skin Cancer Awareness Month, the campaign is one initiative of the ongoing partnership between Xcel and the UH Cancer Center to promote skin cancer prevention through UV protection; and includes a series of summer activities to promote awareness among Hawaii’s youth, who are among those at greatest risk of developing skin cancer in the entire United States. ‘This public service announcement is the latest product of our joint efforts with the UH Cancer Center,’ said Marshall Marumoto, Xcel Vice President, speaking at the campaign launch. ‘Our shared passion and enthusiasm that first brought us together has grown into a strong relationship towards a great cause; and Xcel’s donation today is proudly made in support of the work that we’ll continue this summer and beyond.’ The Xcel and UH Cancer Center campaign was also recognized as part of the Hawaii State Cancer Plan 2010 to 2015, an action plan to reduce the burden of cancer in Hawaii by focusing on cancer control and prevention efforts statewide. More than 5,000 skin cancer cases are reported each year in Hawaii…” A recent study published in the journal Science stated that winds and wave heights have been increasing across the planet over the course of the last 20 years. The study attributes the increase to global warming. According to the website Astriobio.net, which examined the study, “…wind speeds over the majority of the world’s oceans have increased by at least 0.25 percent to 0.5 percent per year, a cumulative increase of five to 10 percent over the last 20 years...
“Winds and wave heights have been increasing across the planet over the course of the last 20 years. The study attributes the increase to global warming.” Meanwhile, waves have jumped in height, but less significantly. The overall pattern is a higher growth in big, big waves, which makes sense since these kinds of waves tend to be generated by storms. Bigger storms, like hurricanes and cyclones, could be related to the ocean patterns and are long suspected to be on the rise because of climate change.”
spaghettini
6/9/06
3:28 PM
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In paddling news, California’s Danny Ching proved his dominance in the sport once again when he blazed past his competition to take top honors at the Rainbow Sandals Gerry Lopez Battle of the Paddle. The race, which was composed of a plethora of paddling enthusiasts and professionals, saw watermen and women from across Hawaii and the mainland compete at the event. “The race wasn’t too technical for the most part. The beginning was flat and then it started to pick up a little bit,” said Ching. “The only thing you could do at the beginning was sit in the waves so I was able to rest a lot in the beginning and fortunately at the end it picked up and the board worked great and I got away from everybody.” The Battle of the Paddle picks up next at Dana Point, California, September 24 and 25. Please visit BattleOfThePaddle. com for more information. Hawaii Kai-Duke Kahanamoku Beach Downwind Race Results: MEN: 1st - Danny Ching, CA - 1:20:27 2nd - Georges Cronsteadt, Tahiti - 1:21:50 3rd - Connor Baxter, Maui - 1:21:58 4th - Bart De Zwart - 1:23:57 5th - Scott Gamble, HI - 1:24:09 WOMEN: 1st - Jenny Kalmbach, Kailua-Kona - 1:37:53 2nd - Rachel Bruntsch, CA - 1:38:10 3rd - Laura Birse, Honolulu - 1:40:08 4th - Heather Baus, Puerto Rico - 1:40:19 5th - Candice Appleby, HI - 1:41:49
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With about a month to go, the lineup for the Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction is looking pretty impressive! Scheduled for July 22 and 23 at the Blaisdell Center, this offering is bound to be the best yet. Randy Rarick, event producer, said he has secured items from the last hundred years that cover just about every era in surfboard evolution. There’s even a solid redwood plank that John Kelly learned to surf on as well as a 1935 Swastika-emblazoned laminated Pacific Systems Homes wood board. There’s also a 1940s finless Joe Quigg “Hot Curl,” a Pat Curren-shaped speed board for film star Steve McQueen, Elephant Guns from Brewer, Harbour, Hobie and Kelly. Bob McTavish’s “short board revolution” models and Gerry Lopez’s “Big Wednesday” board will also be at the show as well as boards from early pro surfers such as Larry Bertlemann and Shaun Tomson and a few 80s “New Wave” models. In addition, a ton of surf memorabilia will fill the auditorium. To say the least, this is a “must attend” event. Further, how cool is
M I L A FGo oRd OC oS. South Western Cantina on Maui’s North Shore in the Center of Paia Town. Serving breakfast, lunch & dinner. Tequila & Margarita bar, Mojitos & Caipirinhas. Fresh island fish served daily. Outdoor dinning. dinnin
808.579.8755 w w w. m i l agro s fo o d c o m p a ny. c o m
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H If fast and loose is what you’re after in little waves, this model is for you. The F-1 Glider is one of our most proven models. The nose and tail widths are increased, along with lowered rockers, resulting in loads of speed with just the right amount of drive for those big moves. Ride it 2” to 3” shorter than your normal shortboard and 1/8” to 1/4” wider, Thickness can stay the same. The feedback for the F-1 Glider has been exceptional and is an excellent step down board.
it that public viewing is absolutely free, with those wishing to bid for items needing to register to do so. Leave your calendar open and come check out a bit of surf history on Friday, July 22 and again on Saturday, July 23, for the Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction run in conjunction with the Hawaii All Collectors Show 2011 at the Blaisdell Exhibition Hall. For more info, check out HawaiianSurfAuction.com.
www.infamysurfboards.com Ahh the much heralded lunchtime surf session. If you’re fortunate enough to work close to a decent peak, we’ve all felt that primal urge to ditch the cubicle for the lineup. Given that most of us only get an hour, we’ve taken the liberty to suss out the gear that will get you a few set waves and still have you back in the office in time for your 1:30 meeting.
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) Nixon’s Rubber Player: You want a watch that’ll have you 1 back in time from your session but still looks hip in the office? Look no further than Nixon’s Rubber Player at NixonNow.com 2) Analog’s FNTO trunks: Unless you happen to work at a surf magazine, showing back up to your cubicle in a pair of these may not be the best idea. That being said, showing up to Bowls in Analog’s FNTO trunks will get you a set wave. 3) Waterman’s Sunscreen: So while you’re throwing buckets at Kewalos and your officemates are sweating it out in a lunchtime meeting, the last thing you want to do when you come back to work is look sunburned. It will be frowned upon. So throw some of this on your mug and save yourself a bit of trouble. 4) Protein Shake: If you’re like most people, you’re lucky to have an hour off for lunch, which is barely enough time as it is to get wet. So how in the heck are you gonna find time to eat? Simple, you drink your lunch. Pound a protein shake after your surf and you’ll be full till dinner.
INDOBOARD AVAILABLE AT:
Aloha Board Shop ■ Bike Factory Hawaii ■ Hawaiian Island Creations ■ Hawaiian South Shore ■ Wet Feet Store ■ Big Island Surf Shop ■ M. Miura Store ■ Hi Tech Sports ■ Polynesian Paddling Products W W W. I N D O B O A R D . C O M
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Kalani Vierra photos: Gibber
Indoor/Outdoor garden supply Nathan Amatore - owner Nathan Amatore 67-292 Goodale owner Ave #108 Waialua,67-292 HI 96791 Goodale Ave #108 Waialua, HI 96791637-2096 ph: 780-2381 • Shop: ph: 780-2381 Shop: 637-2096
North shore
Automotive & truck repAir Dependable service Gasoline or Diesel repair Domestic or Foreign Call Jeff 808 479-9081
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You may not know his name and you most likely wouldn’t recognize his face, but make no mistake, Tahiti’s Hearii Williams is one of the world’s premiere backside tuberiders. A Teahupoo local, Hearii has logged more time in the barrel in a single season than our entire staff has in a lifetime. To boot, he does it all one a oneboard quiver. Whether it’s 10-foot or 2, Hearii makes it work and never ceases to amaze us. Here’s Hearii at home, enjoying his 1,153 barrel of the summer.
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Sequence Baeseman
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Joel Centeio BANDIT Test Pilot Photos: McGinnis
PULSE New this Summer! The PULSE is the latest from Eric Arakawa in his continuing quest to design boards that maximize the fun out of each and every surf session. This is an easy-to-ride shortboard that paddles and catches waves like a fish, but turns with a more vertical range like a thruster. This design is fast and smooth, with great carry and drive through turns, especially on cutbacks. The more you push, pump and drive this board, the more the PULSE wants to give back in speed and responsiveness. Built for fun, the PULSE delivers big on performance. Size this board approximately 2-3” shorter, and ½ - 1” wider than your normal high performance short board.
STUBBY Born from Kekoa Cazimero’s request for a fun mini-board to surf the shore breaks near his home. Kekoa usually rides a 6’0”, but Eric decided to shape him a stubby little 5’4” instead. Surprisingly, Kekoa discovered the STUBBY worked great in “real waves”, not just small shore break. It’s fast and drivey, and it sticks to your feet since there’s not much nose extending past the front foot. The STUBBY is designed with a flat deck and angled rails which help carry volume out to the edge of the board. Order it 6-8” shorter than your everyday shortboard, but only about 1/8” thicker.
BANDIT The BANDIT is the renegade brother of the Stubby. Designed to be ridden 3-6” shorter than your everyday shortboard, it breaks the rules as to what type of waves a mini-board can be ridden in. It catches waves easily and grovels well in small mushy conditions, but this design should not to be regarded as a groveler. This is a high performance design in a small package. It’s fast and loose. It squirts through flat sections and powers through the pocket. The BANDIT is a barrel of fun and plenty of fun in the barrel. Add one to your Summer quiver, and you may find yourself riding it all year long.
BANDIT Model by Eric Arakawa: 5’7” X 19” X 2.31 Squash Tail
Ala Moana Center
The Pulse of Summer
High Performance small wave boards by Eric Arakawa
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www.hicsurf.com