Fsmv8 7 by Freesurf Magazine

Town or Country: Where should you live ?

Hi-Bred Why Hawaii is still the place to be

Kelia Moniz Photo: Heff

July V8#7 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

Free in Hawai‘i

Paradise found discovery in the marshall islands Worldly Travels Team Hawaii returns from the isa Junior games

analogclothing.com

The Del Norte was designed in collaboration with Alex and features an 100% natural hemp upper, our super comfy Vanslite ÂŽ footbed, Captain Fin Co. logo embroidery at the heel, and custom lining and tongue artwork by Alex.

Look for Alex and the rest of the Vans surf team in the upcoming surf movie Get-N Classic, dropping summer, 2011. vanssurf.com

Photos by Mitch Abshere ÂŠ2011, Vans Inc.

Free Parking

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Unlike other sports, there is no end zone in surfing. There is no finish line, nor mountain peak, nor six-minute mile. As surfers, we’ve always been lured by the possibilities that lie around the next bay or around the next set of islands. We know that there’s always going to be more out there. We could dispatch dozens of armies with the sole mission of uncovering waves and we’d still be turning up gems for next 200 years. Simply put: There is no end zone. There’s always more out there to be discovered. Just ask Duane Desoto (pictured here) and this diamond of a right-hand point they recently uncloaked in the Marshall Islands.

Ben Thouard

For more on this wave and the story behind it, turn to page 46.

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

Ambassador Tatiana Weston-Webb

Kain Daly

Keanu Asing

rs of Aloha Congratulations team Hawaii Copper medal isa world games - peru

Hawaiisurfteam.org HSA

HAWA I I S U R F I N G AS S O C I AT I O N

Contents

Kekoa Cazimero, running from the city.

V8#7 July 2011

Aperture

Eight pages of surfing so hot that you’d be wise to cover your retinas.

GREENER PASTURES

Think all of the best waves in the world have been discovered? We’ve got eight pages and 1,200-or-so words that will prove you wrong.

Ambassadors of Aloha An inside look into Team Hawaii’s run at the ISA World Junior Surfing games in Peru.

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Baeseman

Contents

Kourtney Kalili

V8#7 July, 2011

11. F ree Parking: Duane Desoto and crew strike gold in the Marshall Islands. 22. Ed Note: Jeff Mull leaves the comforts of a desk in favor of swimming with a flash for a nighttime photo shoot. Things go south quickly. 24. Post: A reader from California writes in to show his love, a question of etiquette, and why size matters when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ordering a new board. 26. Howzit A collection of sheer randomness. 28. T he FREESURF Survey: Are you more of a Town or Country kind of a guy? 30. H ow To Want to part the sea with a power carve like Pancho? Yeah, us too. 34. S tuff We Like Shades are the order of the day for this issue. Find out which ones weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re giving the nod to this summer. 36. Shoots Eric Baeseman skews your view. 58. P au Hana Brooklyn Dombroski brings a new perspective to the lens.

www.localmotionhawaii.com

OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace

V8#7 July

Kelia Moniz Photo: Tony Heff

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter

Free Thinkers

Clark Carroll, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Ryan Kelly, Albee Layer, Janna Irons

Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Jeff Hall, Enich Harris, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Tracy Kraft Leboe, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Allen Mozo, Zak Noyle, Carol Oliva, Pake Solomon, Kaz Sano, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Batel Shimi, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson

Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson

Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. Expires Aug 30, 2011

Expires August 30, 2011

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am. And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm. A product of Manulele, Inc. 2011

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Editor’s note cultural ponderings

Rock

Zeke Lau, lighting up the city.

A Shoot Too Far

I’m gonna let you guys in on a little secret: sometimes, in the throws of summer, it’s not easy tracking down A-grade photos that are fit to publish. Town’s not always firing and Teahupoo and the rest of the Southern Hemisphere doesn’t always produce in spades. So what’s a magazine to do? As we began our production on this issue we were faced with an anemic swell forecast and a fast-approaching deadline. After a mid-morning meeting that rained ideas (some terrible, some reasonable) we thought it wise to try and pull off a night shoot at Queens. Yep, at night. “It’ll be rad,” we preached to each other. “We’ll have all of the lights from Waikiki in the background, a few spotlights, a flash water housing…this could turn out really cool.” Fast-forward 24 hours and we found ourselves in line at Wal-Mart shopping for dive lights and renting an arsenal of equipment. We had coerced our two favorite subjects, Zeke Lau and Keanu Asing, into participating in our experiments and met the duo at The Duke statue just as dusk settled upon the city. Out to sea, the surf was meager but every 15 minutes or so a shoulder-high set marched through the lineup. At this point, our spirits were as high as the buildings and hotels that skirt the coast. “It’ll be rad,” we repeated. As we swam our gear out to the lineup, the last illumination from the sun waltzing away beyond the horizon, an odd thought donned on me for the first time. I realized I had absolutely no idea what the hell I was doing. I looked at the bulky, lime-green-colored dive light in my hand and wondered what I had gotten myself into. As an editor, I look at hundreds of surf photos every week and feel like I’ve developed a decent understanding of what makes a solid shot. But actually helping take the photos, at night no less, was a horse of an entirely different color. Kicking my way out to sea, I had to ask our photo editor, Tony Heff, just what I was supposed to be doing. “Just sit to my left, sort of on the shoulder, and shoot that light at them,” he responded, very matter of factly. “Should be pretty easy.”

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Apparently, shooting photos in the depths of night didn’t seem to concern Tony. I, on the other hand, was beginning to have issues with the fact that I straight-up couldn’t see shit. Once we found our positions, it didn’t take long for Zeke and Keanu to catch a set. It should be noted, once again, that it was dark and visibility was restricted to about 2 inches from your nose. Think cave dark, but darker. And then it happened. Lights flashed. Someone yelled. And Zeke Lau ran me over. Hard. Truth be told, I never even saw it coming. There I was, trying to point a spotlight at what I thought was a moving object and then I was instantly crushed by 160 pounds of progression. I was pushed straight to the bottom. His board hit me in the back. His body hit me like a ton of bricks. I grunted as I pulled myself off the bottom. Zeke’s bald head then broke through the surface, the whites of his widened eyes expressing his worry. “Oh my god, are you okay?” he quickly spat out. “I’m so sorry.” “I think I’m good,” I replied and then let out a nervous chuckle. So this is what goes into getting a photo. Wading out in the dark ocean, dodging surfers—I had no idea this is what it would actually take. Hopefully, I thought to myself as we made our back to the shore an hour later, all of this effort is worth it and we can get a few keeper images. Back at the car, as we pulled off our gear and unsheathed our cameras, I couldn’t wait to see the photos. As we looked through the viewfinder, it was immediately clear that something was amiss. Too dark, too out of focus, too far away. It was a glorious undertaking that failed to produce a single shot. All of that and nothing. “Ahhh, we almost got one. This one is so close to being sick,” the other photographers and assistants shouted out. I think if the waves are a bit bigger, we can pull this off! Mull, you down to go next week?” I looked at the cuts on my leg from my run-in with Zeke, hesitated for a second, and then responded. “I’m in.” Look for the shots in an upcoming issue. —Jeff Mull

sections Post

Baeseman

Letters to the editor

Much Respect from Cali

A Question of Size

xx Wave…Or Is It? My

To everyone at FREESURF Magazine, Congratulations on a beautiful publication. It’s challenging to put together something organic for the public that is also profitable and good for its community as well as its advertisers. The cover with Shane Dorian and the story about Sion (Milosky) are impressive and of course very heartbreaking (see volume 8, number 4). I’m looking forward to reading more of your future publications. I picked this one up just blocks away from the skateboard spot we called the funnel, an embankment that coupled with the LA River at a great place called Bob’s Ooka Zuya. Please stop in and say hello to those folks when you’re in LA. Much respect.

I started surfing last year and I’m still trying to find out what type and size board I should be riding. I’m 5'10" and weigh around 160 pounds. Any advice?

The other day at the beach my buddy and I disagreed on how priority works. He said it’s the farthest guy out and I said it’s the guy who’s deeper. I know I’m right, but can you guys print that I’m right?

Joshua Aaron Triliegi, California Thanks for the kind words and the respect, Josh. We’re all about the Big R. at FREESURF. Anyway, glad we’re able to stoke out California a bit with our slice of Hawaii. We’ll definitely be sure to check out Bob’s Ooka Zuya— although in all honesty we have no idea what kind of establishment this is based on the name alone—the next time we’re in Cali. Keep respectin’.

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Stephen Darling, Oahu Liko Erickson, Oahu That’s a bit of a loaded question, Darling. (Sorry, we couldn’t help ourselves.) It really depends on a number of things. First and foremost, it depends on your skill level. If you’ve only been surfing a year—kudos on getting your feet wet by the way—then you’ll want to lean on something a bit bigger. Think 9'0" longboard. If you want to go a little smaller and you think you’re ready, then consider getting a 7-foot egg or a funboard. In the end, the best advice we can give you is to talk to a local shaper. When you meet up with him—and we truly can’t stress this next part enough—be honest with him about everything. Well, everything as it relates to surfing at least. Tell him exactly how much you weigh, how tall you are, where you like to surf, how long you’ve been surfing, your skill level…just let it all hang out. You may think you sound like a kook at the time, but in the long run, your surfing will thank you.

Interesting question, Liko. As it turns out, you’re both kind of right, and you’re both kind of wrong. Priority, as it relates to freesurfing, usually goes to the surfer who is the farthest out and is also the deepest. You may have noticed that we used the term “usually” in that last sentence as there are the occasional exceptions, including, but not limited to the following: locals surfers, professional surfers, female surfers, elderly surfers, and little kids surfing in waves that are probably too big for them. You are required to turn a blind eye to the aforementioned individuals. Hey, there’s always exceptions to the rule. Now get back in the lineup, we think that 6-year-old just paddled around you.

Rock

Baeseman

Rock

Shibata

Baeseman

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F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Marotta / ISA

Rock

1. Ridin’ dirty. 2. Greeting from Peru! Love, Team Hawaii. 3. We’ll be honest, it looks live you’ve really let yourself go. 4. Tony Moniz, about to enjoy a meal fit for a king. 5. Whatever you do, don’t look him in the eyes. 6. Will this really make me surf better? 7. Kaoli Kahokuloa, spreading the shaka to Peru. 8. The Rock is in the building. 9. Nope, those are not Jason Shibata’s kids.

Marotta / ISA

/ caught in the act

Baeseman

howzit

PULSE New this Summer! The PULSE is the latest from Eric Arakawa in his continuing quest to design boards that maximize the fun out of each and every surf session. This is an easy-to-ride shortboard that paddles and catches waves like a fish, but turns with a more vertical range like a thruster. This design is fast and smooth, with great carry and drive through turns, especially on cutbacks. The more you push, pump and drive this board, the more the PULSE wants to give back in speed and responsiveness. Built for fun, the PULSE delivers big on performance. Size this board approximately 2-3” shorter, and ½ - 1” wider than your normal high performance short board.

The Pulse for Summer

High Performance small wave boards by Eric Arakawa

STUBBY Born from Kekoa Cazimero’s request for a fun mini-board to surf the shore breaks near his home. Kekoa usually rides a 6’0”, but Eric decided to shape him a stubby little 5’4” instead. Surprisingly, Kekoa discovered the STUBBY worked great in “real waves”, not just small shore break. It’s fast and drivey, and it sticks to your feet since there’s not much nose extending past the front foot. The STUBBY is designed with a flat deck and angled rails which help carry volume out to the edge of the board. Order it 6-8” shorter than your everyday shortboard, but only about 1/8” thicker.

BANDIT The BANDIT is the renegade brother of the Stubby. Designed to be ridden 3-6” shorter than your everyday shortboard, it breaks the rules as to what type of waves a mini-board can be ridden in. It catches waves easily and grovels well in small mushy conditions, but this design should not to be regarded as a groveler. This is a high performance design in a small package. It’s fast and loose. It squirts through flat sections and powers through the pocket. The BANDIT is a barrel of fun and plenty of fun in the barrel. Add one to your Summer quiver, and you may find yourself riding it all year long.

Joel Centeio

BANDIT Test Pilot Photo: McGinnis

BANDIT Model by Eric Arakawa: 5’7” X 19” X 2.31 Squash Tail” With over 20 different Eric Ararkawa models to choose from HIC’s got the right board to take your surfing to the next level.

Ala Moana Center

Street Level, Mauka

808-973-6780

www.hicsurf.com

sections

It’s an age-old dilemma: Should you live in the city and deal with the both the perks and the drawbacks of a surf metropolis or should you go rootsy and live in the country? For years, surfers across Oahu have wrestled with this very question. But now, with the help of this survey, we’re figuring it out for you.

Survey

Town or Country

My typical Friday night consists of: A. T rolling for members of the opposite sex at a grocery story (plus 2 points) B. Wearing your girlfriends’ jeans, ironing out your flannel, and hitting up that new club on Hotel Street (plus 8 points) C. Going to bed early to suss out that secret spot you think you found on Google Earth (plus 1 point)

Where Do You Belong?

I typically wake up on a weekend at: A. 6:30 am (plus 1 point) B. 10:30 am (plus 5 points) C. In a random apartment without my shoes and wallet (plus 8 points) When you hear the word “Diamond Head”, you think: A. This is quite possibly the world’s worst wave (plus 2 points) B. I t gets good, you just have to be on it (plus 4 points) C. Never surfed it, and never will (subtract 2 points) My typical breakfast consists of: A. Muesli and all-natural yogurt (plus 1 point) B. Punching myself in the face to toughen up for Winter (subtract 10 points, you brute) C. Espresso and a croissant (plus 6 points) The islands’ best poke can be found at: A. Kahuku Superette (plus 1 point) B. Tamura’s (plus 3 points) C. Whole Foods (Seriously?) In the last year, I have received _____ parking tickets: A. 0 (plus 1 point) B. 1 to 2 (plus 2 points) C. 4 or more (plus 6 points) Do your trunks fall: A. 2 inches or more below the knee (plus 1 point) B. Right at the knee (plus 2 points) C. 2 inches above the knee (plus 3 points)

Results: If you scored 10 points or under, go to Craigslist now and start looking for a room to rent near Sunset.

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

If you scored more than 16 points, you, my friend, belong in Town. Wear your score with pride.

Heff

If you scored between 10 and 16 points, you can go either way here. Perhaps you can head north for the winter and south for the summer.

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Baeseman

How to

the power Carve

It’s hard to deny the fact that surfing’s next evolution is occurring in the air. Every passing season seems to give birth to a new tweak, grab, rotation, or inversion. Watch an NSSA final at your local beachbreak and you’ll find yourself in need of a tech-surfing dictionary. Sometimes, all of this progression is enough to make a man feel old. With that in mind, we thought it would be appropriate to rekindle an old flame for this month’s How To as Pancho Sullivan walks us through the power carve. Variations: There’s all sorts of variations on the power carve that you can do. You can either do it really tight in the pocket or draw it out. I really like to draw out the carve and just push as hard as I can. Steeper sections: The first thing you want to look for is a wave with a steep section that has a lot of grunt to it. If you can find a section that’s sort of bending back towards you, that’s perfect. That’s where you can really lay into the turn and apply a lot of rail and torque. Keep it on the low: A lot of surfers are initiating their bottom turn too far out in the flats. It’s a common-but-easily-correctable mistake that many of us make. The majority of the wave’s power is in the top two-thirds of the wave. If you can begin your bottom turn just a little bit earlier, before you reach the flats, you’ll gain a lot more speed and drive off the bottom and that speed can be used to transition into your power carve. Size doesn’t matter: It’s not really about how big you are or how strong you

A lot of surfers are initiating their bottom turn too far out in the flats. It’s a commonbut-easily-correctable mistake that many of us make. The majority of the wave’s power is in the bottom two-thirds of the wave. If you can begin your bottom turn just a little bit earlier, before you reach the flats, you’ll gain a lot more speed and drive off the bottom and that speed can be used to transition into your power carve. are, but it’s all about using your equipment to its fullest. A good power carve is about staying low and centered over your board and just pushing out a lot of torque.

Queens is infinitely more rippable than you think it is // Especially at night // The world’s next great surfer will hail from

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

sections town events

A Festival for the Youth Under the hot Waikiki sun, hundreds of pint-sized groms swarmed the beach at Queens for the 14th annual Town & Country Gromfest. For more than a decade, this contest has been a staple in Hawaii and has acted as a harbinger for summer. With the iconic statue of Duke Kahanamoku standing vigil over the event, families gathered together at the shore as groms beamed smiles and anxiously awaited the opening horn of the long-fabled two-day event. Out towards the glimmering sea, the lineup couldn’t have been on better behavior as 2- to 3-foot rights swayed down the reef at Queens. In standard fashion, there were an array of divisions in the contest that reinforced the core message of the Gromfest: above all, this contest is about having fun. “The grom event is an annual highlight for me,” said Town & Country founder and Hawaiian surfing legend Craig Sugihara. “This year we celebrate 40 years in business. While the ride has not always been smooth, something that never gets old for me is seeing the pure stoke on the face of the kids in the water. I shared this love with my sons and grandchildren and feel privileged to touch many more keiki through our 14th Annual Grom Contest. Baby Queen’s offers an excellent place to introduce the kids to contest surfing. Through the years it is my love for the ocean, stoke for surfing, and the desire to share the Aloha that has guided us. I hope the kids experience all of this and share it with others as they grow.” As the event progressed into the finals, the surf kicked up a notch and saw some of Hawaii’s budding talent display a level of surfing that was years beyond their age. From what we saw, today’s 8-year-olds will be a major force in the scene within the next decade, but for now, they’re more concerned with trying to spray their friends. And that’s the way it should be. For Town & Country’s own Michelle Cabalse, seeing the kids in action at the gromfest rekindles her stoke in the sport. “My favorite part is just being with kids in the water. Their mind is in such a different place and that completely changes the feeling out there,” said Cabalse. “One year I got in the water before the contest with all the kids, just chilling’ goofing around, laughing and then I started talking story with one of the kids. He asked me, ‘So what, Aunty, what division are you surfing in? I can cheer for you.’ Those kinds of thing happen only at an event like this, so I have tons of great memories like that that I just treasure.” With the contest winding down, the groms and families congregated under the scaffoliding that skirts the busy Waikiki streets for the award’s ceremony. Shrouded in oversized contest T-shirts and clutching an array of swag, the groms waited as the announcer raffled off a few more prizes and awarded the finalists their trophies. As has become standard fashion for the event, smiles abounded as families packed up a weekend’s worth of surf memories that will last a lifetime—well, at least until they do it all over again next year. Brazil // It takes exactly 154 steps to go from the top of the trail at Diamond Head to the bottom…give or take a few

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Heff

The Fourteenth Annual Town & Country Gromfest at Waikiki

hundred steps // Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entirely possible to score

sections Currents

Tim Curran/Options Timmy Curran’s third LP, Options, takes a new direction that has a great energy. His first two LPs, Word of Mouth and Versus, were very good but seemed stuck in the surf music sound that we’ve all grown accustomed to. He and his band have created a new sound, yet he still has time to ride for Hurley with world-class ability. Not many people can get tubed all morning in Oxnard and play a show later that night in LA. His latest release has a lighthearted, almost danceable energy that may take some getting used to. But give it a chance. The lush, layered mood may be difficult to reproduce live but it sounds fantastic on the album. The second track, “Bail,” may remind some of Passion Pit or Friendly Fires. “Fast Forward” has the jangly guitars of a Coldplay anthem. “Suddenly” takes a different, beautiful direction with strings, acoustic guitars, and dreamy harmonies. The last track “Contradictions” wraps things up with yet another distinctly different sound. The almost trip-hop intro flows into a down-tempo groove that would be the perfect soundtrack for dinner with friends. So if you want to be like Timmy, you’d better clean up your chord progression and finally nail that 360 air. If that seems unrealistic, then go get his latest effort. For a limited time you can download it for free at Timmycurran.com.—Jordon Cooper

play list A quick sampling of beats from the FREESURF office

“You Got Me” The Roots “Punch Drunk Love” Teams & Star Slinger “Up Up Up” Givers “Pumped Up Kids” Foster the People “Close to Me” Teams & Star Slinger

“Bang Bang” Nancy Sinatra

With summer beaming down on the islands, we thought it was the perfect time to update our quiver of shades. We’ve taken the liberty to pull our four favorite pairs of the season for you to have a look at. Your eyes will thank you.

Heff

Stuff we Like 1. Dragon: Shield Mick Fanning Signature Series Mick Fanning knew exactly what he wanted when he designed these glasses, something he could get down and dirty with. If you want to get filthy, these are the sunnies for you. Dragon’s Shields are water, dirt, and oil repellent and will offer you all of the protection you’ll need from an army of elements. $120 2. Anarchy: Indie If you’re looking for a pair of glasses that will feel like nothing is on your face, Anarchy’s Indie glasses are for you. With frames made with extremely light nylon material and polarized lenses, these glasses are ideal for long days cruising at the beach. $45.00

3. Von Zipper: Gatti Sticking with Von Zipper’s stylish look, the Gatti is the perfect pair of shades to wear when you’re spending all day at the beach. Impact, shatter, and scratch resistant as well as polarized, they’ll keep you looking good through all the wear and tear of the Hot Season. $95 4. Oakley: Eyepatch 2 Oakley’s biggest frame ever offers you more protection from the sun than ever. The lightweight frame and lenses will keep you comfortable and in style all day. $100

hundred steps down the trail // Isn’t it about time you updated your quiver with something small and wide?

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

“Say Please” Teams & Star Slinger “Doo Wop (That Thing)” Lauryn Hill

To Access this playlist online, and other music happenings, go to Freesurfmagazine. com/blog

sections Shoots

f5.6 1/1250 iso 100

p h o t o:

Eric Baeseman

Summertime blues and some downtime on the North Shore. I was just freaking out with no waves, so I went and shot some six-inch little nuggets on the sandbars. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Eric Baeseman

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

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surf into summer For 24 years, the Local Motion Surf Into Summer surf contest has kickstarted the summer season in Hawaii with their annual event held at the prestigious Ala Moana Bowls. As has become tradition, the event coincided with Memorial Day weekend this year and ran from May 28 through May 30 under a headhigh swell and sunny skies. For nearly two-and-a-half decades, the event has drawn Hawaii’s premier amateurs to Honolulu. With the prospect of surfing one of Hawaii’s most coveted lineups with only a few other people, the event always sees a hefty crowd of surfers donning jerseys. With a bevy of divisions—there were 12 on tap this year—the event pulled surfers riding all forms of crafts. “This was the 24th year we’ve held this event and it’s always been a lot of fun. It’s definitely a great way to get your summer started,” said Local Motion’s Tim Mock. “Plus, how often do you get to surf Bowls with only a handful of other people out?” With divisions ranging from Shortboard Menehune to Women to Longboard to Senior Men and everything in between, the Local Motion Surf Into Summer truly had something for everyone, and did not dissapoint. By event’s end, with a fading swell and weekend drawing close, the contest crowned its winners, including Kaipo Guerro, who took top honors in the FREESURF Magazine Industry Division. Congrats to all those who participated in this year’s event. Big mahalos to all of the sponsors who’s support makes this event a reality: Quiksilver, Roxy, Jamba Juice, Vitamin Water, Star 101.9, and Freestyle watches.

Results Menehune Shortboard: 1st Place: Devin Brueggemann

Girls Shortboard: 1st Place: Moana Jones

Boys Shortboard: 1st Place: Ulu Napeahi

Mens Longboard: 1st Place: Geoff Wong

Junior Mens Shortboard: 1st Place: Matthew Costa

Womens Longboard: 1st Place: Ashley Ahina

Mens Shortboard: 1st Place: Gavin Klein

Freesurf Magazine Industry Division: 1st Place: Kaipo Guerrero

Master Shortboard: 1st Place: Gregg Nakamura Sr. Mens Shortboard: 1st Place: Edric Baldwin Womens Shorboard: 1st Place: Hana Harrison

Jr. Mens Boadyboard: 1st Place: Keanu Cazimero Mens Bodyboard: 1st Place: Jason Oh

Baeseman

town events

Derek Ho has no problems finding parking in Town.

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

Baeseman

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

F R E E S U RFM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Seq: Rock

Keanu Asing, torquing in the city.

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Heff Heff

With the hustle and bustle of the city, an afternoon spent people (or in this case surfer) watching can be a fine way to unwind.

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Walshy

Crystal Dzigas, perched at Queens.

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Zeke Lauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style never gets stale, but his airs sure do.

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Greener

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Past ures An Eclectic Crew Leaves behind Perfect Surf at Home to See What Lies Beyond the Horizon in the Marshall Islands Photos and Words by Ben Thouard

Duane Desoto, building house.

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Would this be the trip of our lives or would we leave the Marshall Islands with nothing more than a sunburn and a few good stories to tell our friends back home?

Kai Lenny, deadly on all crafts.

mid Hawaii’s peak season, with the islands’ northern shores ablaze with the ripest conditions of the year, an eclectic crew of surfers left the comforts of home behind to descend upon an unbridled touch of islands and atolls in the Pacific in hopes of finding a bit of solitude and discovery. The mission was simple: Travel south to the Marshall Islands, fill a boat with surfers riding every type of craft under the sun, and document it all for Oxbow’s upcoming film, Walls of Perception. Between uncovering hidden atolls, battling mahi mahi in the open ocean, and unmasking a handful of mouth-watering right-hand points, the crew succeeded in their mission and came away with the goods.

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Antoine Delpero, bottoms up.

G reener Past ures

Duane Desoto, high-speed logging.

Can you imagine the excess baggage fee for an SUP? Kai Lenny, praying his expense report goes through.

The adventure begins here. Surrounded by a production team and a bevy of surfers riding an array of craft, we board our ship, The Winward, and set our sites toward the Marshall Islands. I must admit that getting to this point wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t easy for must of us. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re leaving behind perfect surf on Maui and motoring towards nothing more than a hunch and a whole sea full of variables. But this hesitance on our part quickly faded as our apprehensions were outweighed by the thought of finding an empty lineup just to ourselves.

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G reener Past ures

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Through it all, we’re left with one dying reality: at this point in the trip, none of these spots have ever been surfed. To boot, only a few of these coral islands are inhabited, the abandoned skeletons of boats telling of far more treacherous times.

Insert yourself here. Duane Desoto, from where you’d rather be. But still, truth be told, this voyage could go either way. Would this be the trip of our lives or would we leave the Marshall Islands with nothing more than a sunburn and a few good stories to tell our friends back home? And more so, with a crew of surfers riding everything from thrusters to longboards to SUPs, how do we even begin to judge success? Don’t we all carry a different point of view on what constitutes perfect waves?

But then again, I guess that’s the point of this trip and the movie—for each of us to create our own wall of perception. As the motor on the ship chugs along, I find myself lost in this thought. Each one of us, through the prism of our own experience, lives the sport in a different way. Performance, technique, extreme sensations, fun, relaxation have all brought us on this trip together. We’re

all free to interpret our own vision of the sport. In essence: we make our own perfection. So here we are, all passionate, with our several hundred kilos of material on board this vessel that can stay at sea for several weeks at a time, completely self-sufficient. An enormous map depicting an infinite number of atolls and reef passes, all undiscovered by tourists, is waiting to be explored. Manu Bouvet, Levi Siver, and Keith Teboul, who have already been sailing in the area, are keen to see what these islands have to offer so we set off into the unknown, the taste of solitude and salty air on our tongues. Our skipper, who has sailed nearby and knows the weather forecast well, advises us to make the most of a nearby peak as we leave our port and approach a reef pass. Although our opening session was marred by fun surf, we’re consumed by thoughts of untapped atolls bearing perfect waves and opt to motor on. As it turns out, a good slice of the atolls are located a few hundred miles west and as we gather around a map and chart our course, we can’t help but shake the feeling that these little grains of sands lost in the middle of the ocean might just bear the fruit of perfection. Indeed, several atolls, one after the other, are right in the way of the northwest swell forecast in the next few days. F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

Greener Past ures

We can’t help but shake the feeling that these little grains of sands lost in the middle of the ocean might just bear the fruit of perfection. As we chug through the azure sea, we can’t help but spot numerous potential setups that help heaps of potential if hit with swell. With every dormant pass oozing potential, our excitement grows as we imagine what could be on tap. Through it all, we’re left with one dying reality: at this point in the trip, none of these spots have ever been surfed. To boot, only a few of these coral islands are inhabited, the abandoned skeletons of boats telling of far more treacherous times. As the boat continues its course west in search of the passes and reefs that will birth an open shoulder, the boat begins to rock and shake to and fro, a telltale sign that swell is underway. Finally, out to sea, we’re met with the sight of our first virgin lineup. Making our approach, the vision of foam on the horizon reassures us that we’ve indeed found something, but unfortunately, it doesn’t look up to par as a bit of foam unrolls itself on the reefs, the waves shaken and scarred by a swift current. Disappointed, we start wondering if we’ve let our thirst for the unknown get the better of us. To clear our minds, we cast a few lines into the sea. In the current, along the reef, mahi mahi and white tuna crowd the sea. There’s no quicker fix for a flat day than day full of solid fishing. With our first catch of the trip onboard, crew makes its way to the bow to admire the spectacle. And then it happens. As our boat pulls itself to the next pass, nearly perfect waves unroll themselves, one after the other, unveiling a pristine lineup worthy of our hopes. Cries echo round the boat as we scramble to grab our gear and get in the lineup. Our patience has finally paid off. Like firemen alerted to an alarm, we jump in the water to make the most of the booty. Without another boat in sight, I don’t have to tell you that there were more than a few smiles passed along on that maiden session. Our gamble had paid off and the forecasts only looked to hold more promise. With one perfect day behind us, we set

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Kai Lenny, adding a new perspective to an old art.

Antoine Delpero and a case of the blues.

Manning up for a double-up. course to a slew of islands that we thought might hold promise and score again and again. Sessions go on and on, slowly exhausting each and everyone of us. The swell is omnipresent, allowing us to discover new waves each day. Our skipper tells us about the locals living nearby, on the only inhabited island in the area. According to him, they’ve never see anyone else in these waters apart from the occasional Japanese fishing boats sweeping up everything in the water. Here, far from everything and forgotten by the world, to them we were just some

scatterbrained foreigners. Surfing just made them laugh. The way we rode the waves scared them so much that we could hear their shouts from the lineup. After the session, we made a point to make it to shore to communicate with them and buy some coconuts, which are the principal natural resource on the island. Back on board the ship with an array of perfect days behind us, we make our way back to port and reflect on the days we spent meandering through the Marshall Islands. We are all full of unique memories; we have all quenched our thirst for discoveries.

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Ambassadors of Team Hawaii at the ISA World Junior Games

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Aloha

Rommell / ISA

“ We went into this year’s games with a pretty simple mission: We wanted to represent Hawaii in the best way possible. We were there to do our best and ultimately win, but the bigger goals was to represent aloha and Hawaii, and that’s what we did.” —Rainos Hayes,Team Hawaii Head Coach

n an unusually overcast morning in June, Team Hawaii’s Head Coach Rainos Hayes wanders into the FREESURF Magazine office. He’s wearing his characteristic room-illuminating grin and is abuzz with energy. Having recently returned from the the Quiksilver ISA World Junior Games in Peru with a very respectable copper-medal finish, his team has once again made Hawaii proud. Although they may not have claimed a gold medal, they accomplished their mission in spades and Rainos is beaming with pride. “We went into this year’s games with a pretty simple mission: We wanted to represent Hawaii in the best way possible. We were there to do our best and ultimately win, but the bigger goals was to represent aloha and Hawaii,” said Hayes. “And that’s what we did.” Although Team Hawaii may have upheld some of the highest of moral standards in Peru, that’s not to say that they didn’t display some top-shelf surfing at the contest as well. Wielding an arsenal of heavy hitters, team Hawaii touched down in Peru focused, fit, and prepared to win. Lodged at a rented home that overlooked the two peaks utilized for the games, the members of the team quickly acclimated to the climate and South American surf. In the days leading up to the start of the games, from all accounts, the Hawaiians were setting the bar in the water. “Where we were staying was really secluded from everything. It was almost like being in the desert in the middle of nowhere. But there was a really fun right and a left right out front,” said Kaimana Jaquias. Echoing Kaimana’s sentiment, the landscape surrounding the games reminded Maui’s Kain Daly of the moon. “Yeah, the place did feel like the moon, but the waves were fun and the vibe was really good. The right at the contest was pretty fast and slammable with a lot of fun sections to hit,” said Kain. “The left was really long and you had to find the pocket to do your turns. Zeke (Lau) and Koa (Smith) were both really ripping that wave. So we were stoked.” As the first day of competition dawned, Team Hawaii squared off with some of the best young surfers in the world. With a record-shattering 276 competitors hailing from 27 nations, the venue, which was composed of two peaks that held heats simultaneously, did not disappoint. With high-scoring waves on tap throughout the games, Team Hawaii stood tall throughout the initial few days of the prestigious contest, even holding the overall ratings’ lead at one point. “As far as amateur events go, this is probably one of the biggest ones for kids under 18. It’s a world title and everyone wants it. You’re going up against every other country’s top guys,” said Jaquias. “I really look forward to this contest every year. It’s different than any other contest we normally do because it’s a team event and you’re competing individually, but the points add up for your country. It’s really cool trying to get a gold medal for yourself, but also for your team. It’s a lot different, but really fun.” As the event moved forward from the opening stage, the Hawaiians held their ground against the world and vied for the rating’s lead with the USA

Kaoli Kahokulani adding sand from Hawaii in the traditional “Sands of the World Ceremony.” F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

Rommell / ISA

Ambassadors of Aloha

and Australia. At the front of our contingency stood Keanu Asing who took home a gold medal at the World Junior Games in Ecuador two years ago. Asing, who is one of Hawaii’s premier junior surfers, narrowly missed out on making the finals once again this year when he came up just short in his sixth round Under 18 heat. Along with Asing, Maui’s Kain Daly also narrowly missed a place in the finals in the Under 16 men’s division. But rest assured, although they may not have qualified for the finals, the Hawaiian men’s squad truly made their mark and did it with all of the poise befitting the team’s reputation as ambassadors of aloha. The women of Team Hawaii entered the games competitively green but ready to test themselves. Fresh on the roster heading into the games, the women’s squad was inspired by their coaches to do their best, but also use their experiences at the games to learn.

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Despite any notions that the relative young girls’ squad should view the games a learning experience, the ladies displayed an amazing performance throughout the contest. With the help of Bailey Nagy, Brianna Cope, Mahina Maeda, and Tatiana Weston-Webb, their competitive showing in Peru truly helped usher Hawaii to the front of the pack at the games. In the heat leading up to the final, the Hawaiian women had placed two girls—Tatiana Weston-Webb and Brianna Cope— into a position that cemented Hawaii’s standing at the games. Unfortunately, both Weston-Webb and Cope failed to make it out of the heat, but their perseverance throughout the games was a major factor in Hawaii’s overall copper-medal finish. According to Bailey Nagy the games were all about aloha. “I think the thing that’s so unique about our team is that we are

Rommell / ISA

Keanu Asing, backside inversion; Team Hawaii team players; Mahina Maeda partingthe Peruvian sea.

always smiling and bringing along the good vibes. And that’s what is important.” Despite not placing a surfer in the final, Hawaii still had enough points to bring a copper medal back to the islands. Through the ups and downs of the contest, Team Hawaii remained strong, proud, and conscious of their true mission: to represent aloha. And in that sense, they are truly champions. The Verizon Wireless Hawaii Junior Surf Team would like to extend their gratitude to the sponsors who supported this year’s efforts: Verizon, In4mation, HSA, T&C Surf, Las Olas, HIC, Local Motion World Surfaris, and Manuhealii. To see video of Team Hawaii in action, scan this QR code with your smartphone.

Overall Team Results

Copper Gold: Peru  Silver: South Africa

Bronze: Australia  Copper: Hawaii

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Pau Hana Brooklyn Dombroski

d r e a m

in LA, Brooklyn began honing her style as a photographer back home in her native Hawaii. As someone steeped in the unique culture of the islands, Brooklyn has the uncanny ability to capture the unfiltered essence of life in Hawaii. Whether it’s representing that unspoken appreciation of watching a sunset on the North Shore with friends or shooting an eclectic catalog for a high-end client, Brooklyn’s photography evokes an honesty and authenticity. “I don’t know how I’d categorize my photography. I love taking photographs of everything around me. Professionally, I think my photography could be considered as ‘lifestyle.’ Fortunately, I never have to look far to feel inspired,” said Brooklyn. “Waking up in Hawaii every morning is enough to get me going. Sunsets, perfect waves, gorgeous people. It’s not a bad job.” To stay up to date on Brooklyn and to see more of her photography, you can follow her blog at BrooklynHawaii.com.

Corrine Gold

C a t c h e r

o say that Brooklyn Dombroski is a woman comfortable behind a lens would be the understatement of the year. At only 26 years old, Brooklyn, who hails from Haleiwa and is a lifelong surfer, has become one of the most talked about up-and-coming photographers in Hawaii. Her photos have been used throughout regional magazines and ad campaigns including Crush Sunglasses, MIKOH swimwear, Hurley, Contrast magazine, in4mation, and a slew of others. “I learn something new about myself every day. I’m in love with Hawaii and its people, and I’m always hungry to create,” said Brooklyn. With a degree from Chapman University

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As we were going to print with this issue, we came across a press release from Reef that mentioned that our boy Mikala Jones has officially joined their team. We’d seen the sticker on his board for a while now, but this makes it official and we’re sure it’s going to be a perfect fit for both Mikala and Reef. According to Jay, “Bottle” Thompson, surf team coach for Reef, “Mikala’s versatility is one of his biggest strengths. He adapts to all conditions, from big airs to massive, open-face carves, from 1 foot to 20 foot, he is consistently one of the standout surfers around the globe. Mikala is one of the most respected Hawaiians on the North Shore,” Bottle continued. “He’s gained this respect by not only being one of the best surfers to come out of Hawaii, but also through his humble personality.”

Big Love for One Love We’ll admit that things were a touch hazy the morning after the now famous One Love Party. But to say that our friends over at In4mation and G-shock are steeped in the arts of throwing a rager would be the understatement of the decade. Early this summer, the two brands paired up to celebrate the release of their collaborate watch at Mai Tar bar in Ala Moana. With an open bar setting the stage for a monumental party, a veritable mix of who’s who in Honolulu paraded through the venue. By the time Ooklah the Moc—yes, that Ooklah the Moc— set up their amps and lit Ala Moana ablaze, the party was in full swing, and did we mention that there was an open bar? Between drinks and shakin’ a few dozen hands, we did manage to get a quick glimpse of In4mation x G-Shock watch and it truly didn’t disappoint. Marked by bands of green, yellow, and red the One Love watch will make any wrist pop. For more on the watch, go to shop.in4mants.com.

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With deep ties to Japan, it came as no surprise when Hawaii opened up it’s arms and pocket books to help raise money for our friends in Japan in the wake of the deadly earthquake and tsunami. At the front of the movement to raise funds following the disaster, Town & Country produced their “Malama for Japan” T-shirt and donated 100 percent of the net profit raised from the shirt to the American Red Cross. With so many of us eager to help, the shirt sold out online overnight with inventory on Oahu wiped out in a matter of days. There was such a demand for the shirt that stores kept customers on a waiting list for weeks. Truth be told, the folks behind the undertaking at Town & Country, couldn’t have been more thrilled with the results as the campaign went on to raise $82,000 for the American Red Cross Japan Earthquake and Tsunami Relief Fund. “I travel to Japan regularly to work with our partners and have found Japan’s people to be very kind, respectful, and caring,” says Adam Borrello, director of international licensing at Town & Country. “I salute our ownership’s decision to make this generous donation. Providing this support is the right thing to do, and I know the Japanese would do the same for us.” If you haven’t shown your support for Japan by purchasing a Malama for Japan tee, there are still a few available online.

You’ve Never Seen Waves Firing Like This Before Have you ever dreamt of surfing in space? Well, scientists have recently found waves in the sun’s atmosphere as large as the United States. The waves, called Alfvén waves, are found inside the sun’s coronas and are also found throughout the universe in clouds as well as Saturn’s rings. And although these waves aren’t surfable, they are helping scientists better understand how energy travels through the atmosphere and they could eventually help predict solar storms. So why should you care about solar storms, you ask? The

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This year Billabong’s Design for Humanity event broke boundaries in the surf industry. With two stages, three DJs, a fashion show, and art show benefitting VH1’s Save the Music Foundation, this party was a hell of a rager to say the least and will have people talking for months. Best of all, who doesn’t like to party and do a good dead at the same time. At the end of the night, Design for Humanity raised $120,000 that will be distributed to public schools around the country in order to help preserve their music programs. If you were fortunate enough to attend, consider yourself lucky: you just helped hundreds of kids continue to make music throughout the country.

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closeout Proof that age has nothing to do with how well you surf. Michael Ho, turning back the clock at Bowls.

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