Isn’t that
Zeke Lau The next evolution of hawaiian
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The Queen
An exclusive interview with World tour Champ
Carissa
Moore
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September V8#9 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM
The Most Expensive Surfboard Ever T h e Tao o f E at i n g S h t
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On what many have deemed the day of the decade, a flock of the world’s most esteemed big-wave surfers migrated to Cloudbreak. What they found along those Fijian reefs sucked the collective breath of the surfing world. Although he may not be a household name, Kohl Christensen made his presence felt among the best in the world by manhandling beasts like this. For more firing Fiji, turn to page 38. Photo: Bruno Lemos
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Contents V8#9 August 2011
34 The Ascent of Zeke Lau
On a whim, Zeke Lau took a stab at the ’QS. What happened next surprised everyone, especially Zeke
38 As Good As It Gets Cloudbreak goes haywire for an all-star team of chargers
46 Just The Beginning Carissa Moore opens up on what it took to claim her maiden world championship in this exclusive interview
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Heff
xx Photo: xx
Carol Oliva xx
Contents V8#9 September, 2011
13 F ree Parking Kohl Christensen can spell fear, but he can't define it. 20 E d Note Women’s surfing has never been more progressive, so why is it dying? 24 Drewtoonz Zeke Lau, like you've never seen him before. 26 U S Open In case you couldn't make it to Huntington, we boiled it down to 300 words. 28 Lost Atlas Remember Modern Collective? Yeah, this smokes that. 30 S ounds Our music afficianado breaks down Bon Iver’s new album. (Yeah, you just pronounced the name wrong.) 30 Book Review Cause you can’t just read magazines. 32 T he Vintage Surf Auction: And you thought your last board was expensive. 52 P au Hana We searched far and wide (read two desks down) to find Siri Masterson. Plus she swims with horses...which is nice. 54 Free Plugs Land of the free, home of the plug. 60 Closeout Mark Healey takes a beating.
V8#9 September
Zeke Lau Photo: Tony Heff
Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Onaha Hutter
Free Thinkers
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Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock
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Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Office Manager Siri Masterson
Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. Expires Oct. 31, 2011
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Editor’s note cultural ponderings
A note of two ages When I heard the news that Carissa Moore had clinched her first world title at the Roxy Pro in France, I couldn’t help but shake the feeling that this was somehow a milestone moment for women’s professional surfing. Sure, there were others that came before Carissa (Margo Oberg, Lisa Andersen, and Stephanie Gilmore to name just a few) but the way we followed Carissa’s rise from demolishing the boys in the NSSA to getting a 10 in a men’s ’QS contest, to winning her first world title—it all seemed so, well, destined. So perfect. Here was this young woman we’ve collectively watched come of age, we’ve touted so greatly, we’ve held in such high esteem, find her rightful place in surfing. She’d crossed barriers and matured at an age in the sport where surfing began to outgrow its endemic brands. On her board were stickers representing Nike, Target, and Red Bull—all companies that signaled a diversified and potentially more lucrative future for women’s surfing. From all accounts, Carissa is leading the sport into a potentially brighter future. There’s only one problem: upon closer inspection, the future of women’s surfing looks a lot more hazy than sunny at the moment. Granted, girls like Carissa are doing amazing things to further the sport, but we’re also living in an age of harsh realities. In the past few years, the women’s World Tour has dropped from eight events down to seven. The most sacred of contests, the Billabong Pro at Honolua, was replaced by an event in Brazil to the dismay of many of the female competitors. To boot, there’s currently no Hawaiian event for the women’s tour and no women’s Triple Crown. Melanie Bartels, a woman who’s spent the last
seven years on tour, is unable to attend every event for lack of a sponsor. From all accounts, we’re looking at an odd dichotomy in women’s surfing. The athletes have never been more progressive and refined, there’s a growing non-endemic interest in the sport that has the potential to support future growth, but at the same time, it feels like the sport is sinking. Although I’d like to say that I foresee blue skies and rainbows in the coming years, with an honest conscious, I just can’t. For women’s surfing to find solid footing and begin the initial steps toward growth, we’re going to need to see the tour take on some venues that will spur talk and interest. Bring back Teahupoo, the girls are ready for it. Although Snapper and Bells are currently the right-hand highlights of the year, let’s see the girls venture back to the Valley Isle and reignite a relationship with Honolua. Let’s take the women’s tour to Barra, I promise you images of Coco Ho, Steph Gilmore, and Carissa weaving through multiple-section tubes will draw some attention. And if the traditional supporters don’t want to sponsor the events, let’s see what Target has to say. But let’s not stop there. Once the groundwork is laid for a dynamic tour, let’s ignite a grassroots movement to drive awareness of just how seamless women’s surfing currently is. I want to see Carissa interviewed on Letterman. Gilmore on Leno. Coco on Colbert. All of the fundamentals are there for a fruitful future. The surfing is electric and the personalities are compelling. They just need a better field to play and a stronger voice to connect them to the rest of the world. Carissa Moore, pondering her future, and women's surfing, in the process. Photo: Alex Laurel
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sections Shoots
Brian Beilmann
f2.8 1/500 iso 100
I name all my prints after songs. I call this photo “Wild and Innocent” after a Springsteen song. It was shot in Tahiti back in ’08 and I can’t remember the kids name but he surfed for Billabong. I changed it to black and white because, well, I liked it better. In the past, I’ve given credit to photogs who've inspired me and I want to give a shout to Wayne Levine, he's been doing this kind of stuff for ever. —Brian Bielmann
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sections Drewtoonz
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Something Old, Something New Slater Wins Nike US Open
To say the US Open was just a surf contest would be the misnomer of the year. Part skate demo complete with pools and ramps, part music show headlining with the likes of MGMT and Surfer Blood, part fashion show, part all-out rager—the US Open is more akin to an action-sports super fest than anything else. Between the music, the scantily clad throngs of women, and the 24-hour party atmosphere, there were actually some waves ridden. Despite the opening days being marred by lackluster conditions, by the time the meat of the event rolled around a new swell filled into the HB Pier, giving rise to an open field for some of the most adept surfers in the world to get nasty. With ramps abounding, Kolohe Andino proved to be the most talked about surfer of the event as the San Clemente kid went toe to toe with the world’s best in both the juniors division and the open division. In the juniors division, Felipe Toledo would prove himself the latest incarnation from Brazil to rock the status quo and take the win. For the women, Australia’s Sally Fitzgibbons would edge out the US’s Lakey Peterson. For the final, Kelly Slater once again proved to be the most deadly surfer in the event, dispatching all he came across. By far the inform surfer of the comp, Slater’s stride hit the perfect cadence when he stuck a mind-numbing backside rotation in the semi to kill Dusty Payne’s hopes for making a final. In the main event, Slater took on Australian Yadin Nicol in an anemic heat and came out victorious.
Social Media Quote of the Month
“ Spent $150, threw up in a cab, told Dane Reynolds I loved him, woke up on my bathroom floor—winning?” —Albee Layer There’s going to be a return to shooting with film //
sections movie review
Lost Atlas
Kai Neville and Crew Reset the Bar. Again. In 2009 Kai Neville broke new ground in surf cinema with the release of the heralded Modern Collective. Mirroring an emerging culture in the sport where onshore wedges outweighed offshore tubes, Modern Collective melded a handfull of the sport’s most inspired surfers to an untapped genre of music previously deaf to the surfing mainstream. In the end, he created one of the most talked about and applauded films of the decade. And guess what? He just did it again with the release of Lost Atlas. Neville must have known it wouldn’t be an easy task to follow the on the heels of Modern Collective and mimicking the exact formula was out of the question. For Lost Atlas, Neville widened his scope and focused on a wider scope of surfers taking their own approach, as opposed to just a few. To boot, he coupled the most futuristic surfing I’ve ever seen with an oddly hypnotic but very appealing soundtrack. Granted, there will surely be hordes of surfers who can’t relate to the edits, the music, and the general lack of a plotline, but what Neville creates with Lost Atlas is indeed something new. Something different. Judged on the surfing alone, every surfer should watch the film just to understand how far and technical the sport has become. The film is available on iTunes and is definitely worth the download price. —Jeff Mull
The World Tour needs Dane Reynolds a lot more than Dane
sections
play list
Music Review // bon iver
For this month’s playlist, we coerced Kauai’s Alex Smith, the man behind the blog LastNameFirst.tv, to drop his 10 favorite tracks for our column. Enjoy.
D.L. Anderson
“Mr. Rager” Kid Cudi “We Back Soon” Lil Wayne
Bon Iver’s (pronounced “bon e-vair”) amazing debut album, For Emma, Forever Ago, was the result a winter spent alone in a cabin reflecting on loss and illness. Justin Vernon, the band’s founder and lead singer, was able to record this beautiful album with extremely limited equipment. His latest effort, simply titled Bon Iver, allows us to hear what he’d been hearing inside his head all along. Vernon, along with a full band this time, has transformed from a low-fi wonder to a spectacular example of just what happens when talent and creativity melt together perfectly. The huge success of For Emma has allowed Vernon to record with a much larger budget for this self-titled album. Even with the extended capitol pool, he and his band mates created
an album without going over the top. Where For Emma held a sense of minimalism, this time the band shoots for the stars with breathtaking soundscapes that are perfectly broken with Southern rock banjo, peddle steel, and later an R & B horn quartet. The track “Holocene” takes on the light topic of “the growth and impacts of the human species world wide.” It’s an existential search culminating with Vernon realizing simply that, “at once I knew I was not magnificent.” The last track “Beth/Rest” has received serious criticism. Yes, it could be the love theme to Top Gun, but give it a chance. It’s a story of a relationship spanning many years. And it just might end up being your favorite track. —Jordon Cooper
Shooting the Curl
Surf survival
In this breathtakingly beautiful homage to some of surfing’s most esteemed lensmen, the book’s editor, Chris Power, presents 15 chapters dedicated to the art of surf photography. Championed by the likes of Scott Aichner, Tim McKenna, Steve Sherman and others, Shooting the Curl goes one step beyond simply showcasing amazing imagery and gives the reader the backstory on the photographers and photos that compose the book. Proof of just how difficult—and often dangerous—of an occupation surf photography can be, Shooting the Curl properly honors the men behind the lens with this spectacular book. Simply put, this book belongs on your coffee table. —Jeff Mull
Whether it’s a how to on cleaning a reef cut, training to surf better, or a basic set of life-saving skills, Surf Survival should belong in the glove compartment or board bag of every surfer. In what must have been an exhaustive effort, the authors (Andrew Nathanson, MD, Clayton Everline, MD, and Mark Renneker MD) provide a fantastic 101 on nearly everything you’d ever need to know as a surfer. Neither too intricate nor elementary, you’ll find yourself picking up valuable tidbits that will undoubtedly lead you to be a better, and more responsible, surfer. —JM
The Best Surfers, the Best Waves by 15 of the Best Surf Photographers
The Surfer’s Health Handbook
Reynolds needs the tour // That being said, we’ll logon to watch Fanning, Parko, and a host of others surf // By 30
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“ I’m On One” Dj Khaled Ft. Lil Wayne, Drake, and Rick Ross “The Suburbs” Mr. Little Jeans “Motivation” Lil Wayne (Diplo Remix) by Kelly Rowland “ What’s My Name?” Rihanna ft. Drake “ Dance” Mickey Avalon “Gucci Gucci” Kreayshawn “ Dance The Way I Feel” Ou Est Le Swimming Pool “ Marriage” Gold Panda (Star Slinger Remix)
To access this playlist online, and other music happenings, go to Freesurfmagazine. com/blog
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sections Vintage Surf Auction
The Most Expensive Surfboard Ever Vintage Surf Auction Sets Record with Historic $41,000 Sled
Every two years, event organizer Randy Rarick gathers surfboard collectors from around the world in Honolulu for the Vintage Surf Auction. In the past, we’ve seen avid surfboard enthusiasts invest tens of thousands of dollars to gain a physical piece of surfing’s history. This year, with a quiver spanning nearly a hundred years up on the auction block, hundreds of collectors fervently swarmed the event and set a sales record with an astounding $650,000 exchanged. “The sixth edition of the auction was without doubt the most successful ever,” says Rarick. “Even though we limited the main auction to only 70 items this year, they fetched record numbers. “It’s incredibly satisfying for me to see two stoked individuals for
every item sold: the seller, and the new owner. Surfing has always been hugely popular for its lifestyle, its athletes, and its culture. This auction is a perfect barometer of that rising growth in popularity and global interest. By honoring surfing’s heritage, we will also ensure its future.” At the apex of the auction stood a 9-foot board from the ’20s that once belonged to surf legend John Kelly. Representing a slice of surfing history, the board sold to a buyer in Connecticut for a record $41,000. With more than a half-million dollars in sales, this year’s auction set new standards for the event. In a move to give back, the auction donated a portion of the sales to the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation and the Surfing Heritage Foundation.
the time this magazine hits newsstands, we’ll (hopefully) be charting the first north swell // And most likely, said swell will suck.
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Professional He trains like there’s no tomorrow, attends traditional school, and always remembers to say please and thank you. After a breakout summer that has the surfing populace abuzz, Honolulu’s Zeke Lau is bringing professionalism back to professional surfing. Freesurf: It’s been a pretty crazy run for you in the last few weeks. You came off Nationals and the US Championships and then went straight into a ’QS win in El Salvador followed up with a second at Puerto. Take us through that. Zeke Lau: Yeah, well, I had a pretty rough run at Nationals. It’s gotten so tense competing at that level now. It all feels so nuts. It doesn’t feel like it did when we were younger. Anyway, after those events, I was kinda bummed out and Jason Shibata, who I work with now through Volcom, thought it would be a good call to enter that four star ’QS in El Salvador. To be honest, I didn’t really have a lot of expectations. I just wanted to go there and relax and just surf. The place we were staying at was pretty much unreal. It felt like a vacation and I just let the surfing do everything at the event. I had nothing to loose and it felt really good. No pressure. FS: It sounds like you perform at your best when you’re not putting too much pressure on yourself. ZL: Yeah, when you have so much on your mind, you just want to make it so bad, you’re thinking about points and what you need to make it through a heat that you just forget to surf. You get tight and don’t surf loose. You can’t overthink it.
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FS: Going into the event with nothing to loose, as a 17-year-old kid, winning that comp must have been a pretty amazing experience. What’s it like finding yourself on the podium? ZL: It felt good coming in, but as soon as I got to the beach I just got bombarded by people. Guys were trying to grab my hat and watch. It was kinda gnarly, but once I got to the podium, it felt good. You know, it’s really hard to describe exactly what it feels like. It’s almost like this blank feeling overtakes you. It doesn’t feel real. FS: So after El Salvador you backed it up at Puerto. That must have been surreal. ZL: [Laughs.] I couldn’t even believe that I was in another final. I was just stoked to have made another one. But when the final started, it was like 10 feet, and I was just trying not to get too pummeled out there. But through the heat, Kiron [Jabour] had me in a position where I needed a 9 pretty much the whole time so I was just trying to get that. But it didn’t happen. Kiron had the whole heat on chasemode. He was on it for the whole final. I was just stoked to be there again and happy to finish in second. FS: That was your first real venture into a QS run. Did having that much
success change your outlook on doing the QS? Did it make you hungrier? ZL: It was a good way for me to see what it’s like. The traveling, dealing with pressure, the flights, just getting to the event. knowing how to stay focused. But yeah, seeing all of that really made me want it more. It makes me want to try harder, train harder. Just go hard. FS: So you’ve still got another year at Kamehameha before you jump on the grind. How you feeling about your last year in high school? ZL: Yep, I’ve got one more year in school and I’m just trying to enjoy it now before my life turns into chaos on the ’QS. It’s kinda gnarly so I just want to enjoy this last year of being at school and being at home. After this next year, I’m going to commit myself to making the World Tour as fast as possible. So I want to enjoy the downtime before things get serious. FS: You’ve garnered some decent points and there’s a chance you could end up in the Triple Crown. How would that register on your list of accomplishments? ZL: That’s what I’m shooting for right now. My results from the last two events put me in pretty good rankings, so yeah, I’m trying to make it into
Heff
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Triple Crown. It would be everything to me to get into that event. It would be an honor just to make it to that event. FS: Do you ever catch yourself and wonder how you got here? How you went from being a grom to smoking guys on the ’QS? ZL: It’s pretty weird. Growing up, surfing was something I just did on the side. Basketball and soccer were more my thing and then I would just surf to blow off steam and hang out with my dad. But yeah, it’s a little weird surfing against guys that you grew up watching so closely in all of the videos. FS: Sort of along that same path, what’s it like to have groms looking up to you now in the same way you used to look up to other pros? ZL: It’s funny because I don’t really see myself as that person, because I feel like I’m still looking up to the older guys. But on a smaller scale, I have three little sisters and cousins, so I know how it is when they’re looking up to me. So in that sense, I really do try and really set a good example.
ZL: Well, I grew up in Town and I’m pretty much a Townie. I’m not really that into dirt and rain. I like concrete, I like to keep my shoes and cars clean, and the North Shore always seems to get me dirty. [Laughs] But, yeah, I’m good for a few days up there if the surf is good, but after a while I just like to go home back to Town.
Heff
FS: What’s the best thing about living in Town?
FS: On a lighter note, you’ve got a different style than a lot of other guys. I don’t think we’re gonna see you in skinny jeans and a cardigan anytime soon. ZL: My dad always taught me to look presentable. I go to school, I know all the styles with the super tight jeans. But for me, I’m usually into baggy jeans, some Jordans, some XX shirts, Fitted caps, some chains, some earrings. But Volcom’s got such a unique style that I can put my own twist on it. FS: Who would end up on top in a friendly scrap between you and Keanu?
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ZL: Well, I’ve got a pretty long reach and I’m about 40 pounds heavier, but I’d say he’s going down. He’ll tell you that he’s got some Mighty Mouse moves, but at the end of the day, he’s going down. [Laughs.] FS: You’re coming up on your last year. Walk us through what happens on graduation day. ZL: The day I graduate is the day my mom throws the biggest party ever. She’s worked with me and my sisters so hard to keep us squared away at school. She’s always on us to stay sharp at school. She wants me to finish up high school more than I do.
FS: Are you counting down the days? ZL: Nah not really. This senior year, my schedule is pretty cruise. I’ve got most of my core stuff done, so I’m going to try and really enjoy my last year. I’m excited to start school.
aspect, you make new friends, you go to prom. Homeschool doesn’t really feel like the real world to me. In the real world, you go to school, you go to college, you get a job. My mom is really pushing for me to go school and I’m planning on doing some online classes while I’m doing the ’QS. But I’m really trying to have that normal life and still fulfill a dream as well.
FS: What’s the shittiest advice anyone’s every given you?
FS: And how about the best advice?
ZL: Probably someone telling me to go to homeschool. Maybe it’s what everyone has been telling me, but I’m so glad I went to traditional school. I feel like with homeshcool you’re putting all of your eggs in one basket. It doesn’t always work out. At a regular school, you have the whole social
ZL: Hard work is everything. You work hard for something, it’s gonna pay off. It may be easier to cheat, but in the long run, hard work will pay off. It always will.
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day of the decade A n A l l - S ta r C r e w D e sc e n ds O n P e r f e c t C l o u d b r e a k
All Photos: Brumo Lemos
Kohl Christenson, underground in more ways than one.
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Whether it’s 2 foot or 20, Nathan Fletcher has never been one to hold back with his balls-to-the-wall approach setting the pace for an entire generation of surfers.
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Off the radar since the passing of his brother Andy, Kauai’s Bruce Irons returned to the stage and threw caution to the wind, leaving the motley lot of hard-charging surfers singing his praise.
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(Clockwise from spread) As good natured and amicable as they come, Alex Gray has proven himself to be one of the most versatile surfers of the modern era; As the massive swell set Cloudbreak ablaze, this seldom-sung right-hander came to life; In condition that would shake the knees of most men, Nathan Fletcher smiles; Brothers in arms, Mark Healey and Kelly Slater embrace after a session that will fill their dreams for the next decade. 44
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interview
Moore
Kenworthy / Red Bull Photo files
by Jeff Mull
Carissa
Long Live the Queen
Cestari / ASP
“ It was the first time in the entire year that I was actually super nervous because I had no control of the situation. Everyone started to gather around me, asking me questions, and then started celebrating, I just put on my earphones and tried to block it all out until the horn actually blew.”
Carissa Moore: I think every woman on tour wants and believes that they can win a world title, otherwise they wouldn’t be competing at this level. Dad and I talked about the title a few times, but never more than using it as motivation. Sally was nipping at my heels the whole year and there was a placement shift halfway through where I was nipping at hers. It was so close that I never really could let my guard down, just had to keep my head focused and take everything one step at a time. When the seconds started counting down in the StephSally semi in France and Steph was ahead, I think that was finally the moment that I let it all go. FS: What kind of a relationship do you and Sally have both in and out of the water? Does it ever get tense between you two? CM: Sally and I have a really healthy “rivalry.” We have fun both in and out of the water, but 48
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when the horn blows the face changes and we become really competitive. I think neither of us like to lose to the other but that’s the fun of the game. I definitely feel like we pushed each other to perform at our best this year. FS: Let’s talk about the actual event in France this year. Can you talk about that moment where you actually secured your title? All of the past few years felt like it was leading up to this, and then it finally happened. CM: It was weird because I always visualized winning the final and then winning the title. I Bonnaure / Aquashot
FREESURF: It seemed like you just took off on a roll this year. Granted there was some talk of a rivalry between you and Sally [Fitzgibbons], but it seemed like it was more of a matter of when, not if, you would secure your title this year. Was there a point this year when you felt like, “yeah, I can win a title this year”?
(Left) With one of the most deadly forehand gouges on the Women’s World Tour, Carissa Moore cut through her competition this year to secure her first world title. (Right) Culminating at the Roxy Pro in France, Moore’s win signaled the first steps to a new surfing dynasty. was standing on the beach watching it all unfold in front of me. It was the first time the entire year that I was actually super nervous because I had no control of the situation. Everyone started to gather around me, asking me questions, started celebrating, I just put on my earphones and tried to block it all out until the horn actually blew. Then I jumped up and down and started screaming. FS: So how does Carissa Moore celebrate a world title? CM: A mellow dinner with my friends, family, and support crew— just the way I like it. Plus a mini dance party with my girls [laughs]. FS: You briefly came back home to Hawaii for a quick day or two after your title in France, but then took off again to the US Open. How bad do you just want to get home and take in this win? CM: I’m that person who’s always looking on to the next thing, the next goal. I love working hard, waking up early, competing, traveling. I’m not one to go out and party super hard. I’d rather keep things mellow and just spend quality time with quality people and I got to do that. I was home for just enough time to see my best friends and family and then I was off to the US
Bonnarme / Aquashot
Open. I got to continue the celebration at the Open so I can’t complain. FS: What do you say to people who are already speculating on you winning another handful of titles? CM: I’m still enjoying the first one. FS: If you were able to change one thing about the current tour, what would it be and why? CM: It would be great to have more events at better venues so that the girls can really showcase their talent. I think that the world title should really come down to the best surfer and consistent, quality waves open doors for better performance and just makes it so much more exciting to watch. FS: Although you’re still a teenager, a lot of women look up to you. Do you feel a responsibility to women’s surfing? CM: I’m very flattered and very honored to be in the position that I am in. I think that I can say confidently for myself and the rest of the girls on tour that we all feel responsible for upholding a positive outlook for the future of women’s surfing.
According to Carissa, her first world title couldn’t have been possible without the help of her coach and father, Chris Moore. Photo: Kirsten/ASP
FS: It seems like you and your dad share a very F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M
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With a breakout performance this year that saw her earn a maiden title, Carissa Moore remains just as focused as ever moving into next year. Photo: Kenworthy / Red Bull Photo Files
Long Live the Queen special relationship. Does he still travel with you to every event and work as your coach or are you going out more on your own now? CM: My dad travelled with me to every stop on tour this year. We’re a team and I definitely wouldn’t be where I am today without him. Who better to share this journey with than my own dad? We have a great relationship and I am so lucky that I have a little piece of home with me wherever I go. FS: Last year, it looked and felt like Steph Gilmore had a grip on the women’s tour that couldn’t be broken. But this year, you came along and took charge from the get go. Did it feel like you were taking over the reigns on the women’s World Tour from Steph?
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CM: I think it was scary for all of us when Steph got attacked. We all were kinda shocked because to have it hit so close to home, to someone we all know, was so weird. It’s something you read about in the newspaper and you feel bad for a minute and move on, but it was Steph this time. She was at her home, somewhere where you feel safest, when it happened. I think it got us all to pay attention a little more to our surroundings and be aware of what is going on. FS: Do you have any crazy fans? Does it ever feel like you’re a celebrity?
CM: I think there is still a battle for superiority on the tour. I really had to work for it this year and I definitely think that’s going to be the case next year, maybe even more so.
CM: No crazy fans. I am so thankful that everyone has just shown me a lot of positive support and love. I don’t feel or consider myself a celebrity, but I have to admit the week at the US Open was pretty hectic. Just a lot of running around, autograph signings, and media obligations but no complaining, I enjoyed it.
FS: On a more serious note, how did Steph’s attack shake up the tour?
FS: What’s the oddest thing you’ve ever seen one of your fans do?
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CM: [Laughs]. I don’t know about the oddest, but someone sang a song for me and played the ukulele which had to be the coolest. FS: With your crazy schedule, do you have a time to be in a relationship or is that something you want to keep private? CM: I love being in a relationship but I am single at the moment. There is a time and place to be in a relationship and right now I’m enjoying traveling, surfing, and just focusing on myself as selfish as that sounds. FS: Last questions, where does Carissa Moore go from here? CM: You’ll just have to wait and see.
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“I’m that person who’s always looking on to the next thing, the next goal. I love working hard.”
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Pau Hana Siri Masterson
The Horse Swimmer
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opportunity, the animals love the ocean. “Like runners, horses do take on some injuries to their legs and I’ve found that taking them swimming is really theraputic.” A different interpretation to the “lead a horse to water” adage, Masterson says that getting a horse to swim with you isn’t always the easiest of tasks, but once you’ve gained their trust, “they just end up loving the water.” Moving forward, Masterson anxiously awaits the first pulses of winter, but in the meantime, she’s enjoying riding something else in the water, and it comes with four legs instead of three fins. Heff
Siri Masterson doesn’t fit the typical mold of your standard surfer. Although there’s no place she’d rather be than at Laniakea on a head-high swell, what keeps Siri’s blood pumping is the game of polo and even more specifically, surrounding herself with horses. “I love surfing more than anything, but in a close second is playing polo and being around horses. The game is incredibly old and dates back to Afghanistan. But I love to play,” says Masterson, “almost as much as I love to surf.” Working at the polo fields in Mokuleia, Masterson is tasked with watching over five separate horses. And according to her, when given the
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Billabong and acclaimed artist Andy Davis have teamed up to deliver a special, limited-edition line that speaks to the 1970s Bohemian lifestyle that once dominated surf culture. According to a release sent out by Billabong, “Davis has carved a popular niche in the surf world via his stylized illustrations depicting the joy and camaraderie of the surfing life, first entering the scene with his Free apparel line in the 1990s and more recently created designs under the Ando and Friends label. However, the new relationship will allow Davis to focus on his art while Billabong’s infrastructure absorbs the complexities of sales, manufacturing and distribution.
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‘I’m just totally stoked,’ said Davis. ‘It’s a dream set-up as far as I’m concerned. And I’m very excited to now be able to produce a line showcasing my art that is 100 percent organic or recycled. That’s very
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Jamie Mitchell wins 10th Paddleboard World Title
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Jamie Mitchell, the world’s most dominant open-ocean paddler, has added another figurative feather to his hat by winning his 10th world title in the prestigious Molokai to Oahu paddle race. Mitchell, 34, who hails from Queensland, shaved a record eight minutes off his best time, clocking in at a blistering 4 hours, 40 minutes, and 31 seconds. “I feel like the weight of the entire Hawaiian Island chain has lifted from me,” said a pumped up Mitchell at the finish. “It’s done.” When told of his record-setting tone, Mitchell replied, “Epic!” I can’t believe it was that fast. Conditions weren’t that great, but the current was good. Sometimes the wind felt like
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Free plugs it was barely blowing at all. It was pretty hard, you had to work for the (wave) runs. Even though the wind wasn’t that great, thankfully it never got really ugly like it can get. I actually got some of my longest glides in that last six miles, which is usually the worst. I didn’t realize how fast it was until they told me the time.” According to Mitchell, this win marked the end of his paddleboard career. “[I want to] Go out at the top. It’s time for a new challenge. I’ve worked hard to get this. Ten years is a long time. It’s time to chase something new.” Moving forward, Mitchell will be on hand at the Quik Pro in New York during the first two weeks of September, acting as the head of water safety for the event.
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Our friends over at Alpinestars are launching a new line of backpacks that have caught our eye. According to a release sent out their new luggage line is the perfect travel series. “Our roster of World Class athletes relies on us to provide streamlined, unhindered performance in the most challenging arenas of professional sport. The Alpinestars Global Luggage series is designed with same commitment to performance that keep our athletes safe and focused. In this spirit, we have built a full range of luggage that can meet the chaotic demands of a World Class champion as well as seasoned business traveler. Whether en route to a Formula 1 championship or a weekend getaway, the Global Travel series ensures that you’ll arrive focused and prepared.” Follow us on Twitter and Facebook:
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Mark Healey, bringing you the carnage. If you like wipeouts, you're going to love our next issue. Trust us. Photo: Latronic
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