MAGAZINE
G I R L S FREE IN HAWAI’I MAY V9#5 FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM
of S U M M E R MALIA MANUEL PHOTO : KENWORTHY / A-FRAME
a n a l o g c l o t h in g . co m
DUSTY PAYNE Phot o: Ke nw or t hy
NIKE.COM/SURFING
F R E E
P A R K I N G / The pure, unadulterated look of stoke on Koa Smith’s face. Only a grom knows the feeling. Photo : Pete Frieden
10
FR E E S U R FM AG A ZI N E. COM
N
O
42 Malia Manuel New on Tour
16 Editor’s Note Crushing the Big Blue
TABLE OF CONTENTS
56 Aperture Groms Shredding Stylishly
28
36 Summers Buyers Guide The latest and greatest goodies
26 Leila Hurst Junior World Champion
V9
Girls of Summer Talent & Grace
V9#5 MAY Malia Manuel Photo : Kenworthy / A-Frame
E d i t o r i a l Publisher : Mike Latronic
orange carrot karma
Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Managing Editor : Matt Luttrell Guest Editor : Tiffany Foyle Photo Editor : Tony Heff Art Director : Chance Carpenter Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Copy Editor : Lauren Shanahan
Free Thinkers : Casey Butler, James Stone, Jordon Cooper Staff Photographers : Eric Baeseman, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock
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C o n t r i b u t i n g
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S a l e s
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THE LANAI
AVAILABLE AT BoArdrIdErs CLuB NorTh shorE QuIksILVEr PoIPu
A u
EDITORS NOTE :
This new millennium has ushered in a curious new
surfing is progressing, and the technical skills the
the FreeSurf crew has collected all the must have
era in surfing. No longer is it an anomaly to see a
ladies now dish out on the waves is absolutely
gear for this summer season to make your life that
pretty, vivacious woman surfing better than you. It
phenomenal. Yet for all the progression, one bench-
much easier. Enjoy the longer days of summer!
is now commonplace. Radical tailslides, finners and
mark remains to be broken by a woman. Pipeline.
- Matt Luttrell
even airs have become de rigor for the new breed
When will a top woman surfer decide to dedicate
of women surfers. This evolution was made appar-
herself to surfing on the world’s greatest stage? To
ent during the 2011 Triple Crown. Carissa Moore’s
date, Keala Kennelly has surfed the place best. It
wildcard seed into the Haleiwa and Sunset events
should be interesting to see if Carissa Moore, Ma-
had some of the men scared at the thought they
lia Manuel or Coco Ho is willing to dedicate them-
would fall to a woman (world champ or not). While
selves to earning a spot at the world’s heaviest
Moore failed to advance through a heat, the idea of
lineup in the next few years.
seeding the top women professionals in the men’s events is certainly a valid idea.
This issue sees the return of Tiffany Foyle. Tiff was the editor of this publication back in 2008. For this
2012 also marks the ten year anniversary since
issue, Tiff caught up with new World Tour competi-
Blue Crush opened in theaters. Love it or hate it,
tor Malia Manuel to find out about life on the wom-
the film has rippled through surf culture. More girls
en’s tour. FreeSurf also got the chance to catch up
surf now than ever before. Every facet of women
with some of Hawaii’s top female surfers. Finally,
rock / ladyslider.com
u g u s t ,
No longer is it an anomaly to see a pretty, vicacious women surfing better than you.
16 2002
O N
T O U R
WITH MALIA MANUEL What Happens When a Good Girl Surfer Grows Up?
As the youngest ever U.S. Open of Surfing Cham-
“When I was young, every year I wanted to be
pion at age 14, and the top competitor on the ASP
something different,” the hapa (Hawaiian, Filipino,
Women’s World Rankings at age 18 currently, Malia
French, German) beauty confesses. “Like a teach-
Manuel is one of Hawai‘i’s next generation female
er, stewardess, dancer, and so on. I never really
phenoms.
planned to be a competitive surfer. It was something I did for a social thing on the weekends. How-
As one of the three Hawai‘i representatives cur-
ever, as opportunities started to arise, it was a path
rently on the Women’s World Tour, Malia, along with
I couldn’t give up and now I’m really happy to be a
Carissa Moore and Coco Ho, embody the next gen-
part of this industry.”
eration of locally grown, competitive female surfers since the likes of Rochelle Ballard, Megan Abubo,
Industry it is. With a very professional website and
Keala Kennelly, and Melanie Bartels.
all the sponsorships a surfer could want, Malia embodies the next generation of female surfing—a
“Without watching their generation surf, we
generation that is equal parts talent and lifestyle.
wouldn’t be where we are today,” Malia relates.
Her surf skills score points that keep her on tour,
“So I want thank them for paving our way.”
but her good looks and feminine style sells product that keep the wheels of the industry machine
The Wailua, Kaua‘i native went to Kapa‘a High School, but after some teachers were not supportive of her traveling for surf contests, Malia got her GED in tenth grade. She grew up in a neighborhood full of boys and is a self-professed tomboy.
turning.
heff (lifestyle) kenworthy / a-frame (action)
“
HUMBLE CONFIDENCE IS THE BEST THING A WOMAN CAN WEAR.
“Being from Kaua‘i, my style has a strong emphasis on comfort, functionality, and a casual allure,” Malia says. “Usually, you’ll see me with a flower in my ear. I like having a little Hawaiian twist to my style and try to carry that wherever I may be. While she says she doesn’t feel pressure to be specifically feminine or girly in order to be relevant in the surf industry, Malia does, for her own sake, want to look presentably chic when she walks outside. She adds, with wisdom beyond her years, “Humble confidence is the best thing a woman can wear.” Part of Malia’s confidence comes from fueling her body right. Nutrition is important for her so she’s pretty strict about eating organic and raw foods. She admits that she is “quite obsessed” with working out in addition to her clean diet. Being self-disciplined is a huge feat at 18, but Malia says she has her family to thank for everything. While she keeps her website and social media up to date, her dad helps with equipment and is always good for a surf session after work. “My mom
“
BEING FROM KAUA‘I, MY STYLE HAS A STRONG EMPHASIS ON COMFORT, FUNCTIONALITY, AND does so much for my career,” Malia says. “She exA CASUAL ALLURE ceeds what mothers should be doing. I’m so thankful. She is the most proper, well-organized woman.” Since Malia feels like surfing chose her and not the other way around, she isn’t looking too far ahead with her expectations of the future. “I haven’t even thought about next year,” she admits. “Since this season just started, hopefully I’ll be having a good rhythm on the Women’s World Tour…. I just want to keep healthy, live simply and enjoy my opportunities.” - Tiffany Foyle
kenworthy / a-frame
MALIA @ A GLANCE Favorite thing in the whole world : Hawai‘i. Passions : I really enjoy being active. I love running, hiking, and practicing yoga. I am also passionate about health food and like to cook. Dry Time : There’s a lot of down time while traveling on the road, in between heats and such. When the waves are flat I enjoy running and walking around the towns we stay in. I’m more of an introvert so I enjoy those types of things. Biggest Influence : Gabby Reece is a huge inspiration. She has fulfilled her passion as a professional athlete, gone above and beyond as a host for several TV shows, and is a family woman. She also is in top shape and has circuit training classes to keep us Kaua‘i ladies fit!
this is lei Leila Hurst is a straight shooter and a do-gooder.
onships. The world title contender was not in the
Snagging a spot on the Women’s Tour isn’t an ur-
She’s assertive, but approachable, with an endear-
water during the Burleigh Heads final. She was bit-
gent priority for the 18-year-old and she’s not sure
ing, self-deprecating sense of humor. She’s also
ing her fingernails while watching her friend, Alessa
whether she’ll go for another junior title. “I’ll be do-
the current Junior Women’s World Champion.
Quizon, take down Aussie Philippa Anderson.
ing some QS events and contests, for sure,” she says, “but I’m not going to be bashing my head
Growing up on Kauai’s North Shore allowed Leila to
“I had never been in that position before--not hav-
into the wall if I don’t qualify this year. Vans has all
fully utilize and hone her natural ability. “The waves
ing any control over winning or not,” she says. “I
these trips set up for me. I’m surfing and going to
are always really good and you’re always bettering
didn’t even want to watch and I felt like I was going
shoot and film. The CT is in my future, but it’s not
your surfing,” she says. She’s focused almost exclu-
to throw up. It was super weird, but I’m happy it
right this second.”
sively on competition surfing since the age of 10,
turned out the way it did. Alessa is such a good
but these days, her objectives are enjoyment and
friend of mine, it was cool to be able to have that
“Vans is really into lifestyle, and it’s better to live
life experience. Her competitive style, while clearly
moment with her.”
like that: being yourself,” she says. “They just want
potent, is also relaxed--unless, of course, her fate
me to enjoy surfing. They’re really mellow and I’m
is out of her hands, like at World Junior Champi-
a way happier person being a part of their team.”
hank / a-frame
ila Leila actually moved to Newport Beach last year to
ated a video about their experience and posted it
tures. I think a lot of the time, people get really
be closer to her sponsors. “Newport is okay,” she
on Offthewall.TV. Leila’s developing a foundation of
over traveling--especially professional athletes,
hedges. “We’re so spoiled [on Kauai]. It’s hard be-
her own, though she’s hesitant to talk about it--“in
because they’re doing their jobs--but we’re so
ing fully clothed everywhere I go. [Laughs.] And it’s
case it doesn’t work out.”
lucky to be able to travel the world.”
Other people who grew up there are psyched in a
“It’s not really going yet,” she says, “but some-
Ultimately, Kauai is home, and that’s her favorite
wetsuit. But it’s fun.”
thing’s going to come out of it because I’m really
place to be. I ask her to forgive my cheesiness
passionate about it and so are my sponsors. You
and tell me what being from Hawaii means to
have to watch the movie. It’s really cool.”
her. “It MEEEEEEAAANS,” she begins theatri-
so hard for me to get used to wearing a wetsuit.
Leila emphasizes that her world doesn’t begin and end with waves. “My sister Sophia has spina bi-
cally, “that… shizzle. I don’t know. It’s definitely
fida and she’s physically disabled,” Leila explains.
Further conversation about life outside of surfing
a sense of pride. I’m just so lucky.”
Leila and Sophia recently teamed up with Life Rolls
reveals that food and travel are Leila’s other pas-
--Casey Butler
On, a non-profit that helps people move past pa-
sions. Leila reckons that traveling is the best possi-
ralysis to live exciting and fulfilling lives. Vans cre-
ble education. “I love seeing all of the different cul-
O F
S U M M E R
G I R L S
O F
S U M M E R
roxy
G I R L S
Hawaii’s Hot Up-and-Comers
They have their own promotional websites before
They are the next generation of female surfers who
they have driver’s licenses. They have sponsors be-
are the hybrid of sheer competitive talent and a
fore they get braces. They have magazine spreads
marketer’s dream in a tiny bikini. They can be con-
and surf video sections before they can legally see
test or lifestyle surfers since they grew up in a time
Rated R films. But most of all, they are young, fun
when the surf game is as much about a bag full of
and fearless.
surf tricks as it is aesthetic appeal. For any sport that is also a big industry that sells product, being physically attractive and talented is the winning combination. These girls of summer seem to intrinsically know and exemplify this at younger ages than ever before. Let’s meet the ladies, shall we?—TF
Name : Alessa Quizon Age : 18
heff
Hometown : Makaha School : Waianae High School Best Result : 2012 Billabong ASP World Junior Gold Coast Champion Best Advice : No matter what, win, lose, always keep a smile on your face.—Dad Best Maneuver : Ah, I don’t have one. Just the basics. Double Grab Air - Old or Gold? I think any air is pretty awesome. Scariest Moment in the water : I would have to say just recently I had a contest to do at Gum’s. It was like six feet closeout beach break and I got sucked all the way to Backdoor and got pounded. That was a little bit of a freakout. Last Facebook Status Update : I deleted my facebook.
Name : Bailey Nagy Age : 16
heff
Hometown : North Shore, Oahu School : Kahuku High School Best Result : 3rd Place, Pipeline Women’s Pro. Best Advice : Gather your marbles. —Rainos Hayes Best Maneuver : Probably top turn or bottom turn. I don’t do anything crazy like airs or anything. Double Grab Air - Old or Gold? Old. Scariest Moment in the Water : Getting taken over the falls on a ski while I was towing Phantoms. It was scary. My vest ripped open and I had to take an 8-foot set on the head, which sucked. Last Facebook Status Update : I actually deactivated my facebook account believe it or not.
Name : Brianna Cope Age : 17 Hometown : TK School : Kaua’i High School Best Result : Won the North Shore Surf Shop Pro Junior at Sunset Beach Best Advice : Never give up.—Sister Best Maneuver : I like throw tails. Double Grab Air - Old or Gold? Depends on who’s doing it. Scariest moment in the water : I don’t get that scared, unless it’s huge, like ten-hundred feet. Last time I remember being scared was when I surfed the beach park and it was 8-foot closeouts. The jet skis couldn’t even take us out. Last Facebook status update : “Waves are fun.”
heff
Friends, Family, Fun
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Name : Dax McGill Age : 14
heff
Hometown : North Shore, Oahu School : Hawaii Tech Academy Home School Best Result : NSSA 2012 Hawaiian Open Women’s Champion Best Advice : Actions speak louder than words.—My Dad Best Maneuver : Air Double Grab Air - Old or Gold? Gold Scariest Moment in the water : Last contest [Pipe Pro], I was paddling back out, and I got sucked down to Off-the-Wall as I was trying to paddle back out to Pipe. All of a sudden a second reef roll in comes through. I’m paddling up the face of it, like, ‘Oh no, I hope I don’t get lipped by it. I had to underdunk it. I came so close, I was screaming. Last Facebook status update : “Day one of Regionals. So stoked to start off.” Name : Honolua Blomfield Age : 13
heff
Hometown : Sunset Beach, Oahu School : Waialua High & Intermediate Best Maneuver : Helicopter Best Placing : 2nd at U.S. Championships Best Advice : Hard work will always beat talent when talent refuses to work hard! —Coach Mike Fowler Double Grab - Old or Gold? Old Scariest Moment in the water : At ‘Ehukai during the last Junior Pro, I got pounded a lot. The sets just kept coming and I couldn’t get back out. Last Facebook status update : “So I’m giving up candy. If you see me with candy, I give you my permission to take it from me and eat it all right in front of my face. Please help me make it through the next month candy free!” Name : Kelia Moniz Age : 19 Hometown : Honolulu, Hawaii School : Class of 2011 Best Result : 2nd Swatch Pro China 11’ Best Advice : A smile makes all the difference! Best Maneuver : Smile Double Grab Air - Old or Gold? Hmmm Gold! I think they’re cool! Scariest Moment in the water : About three years ago one of my lovely friends Coco took me out on a nice size day at Sunset and I swear I saw my life flash before me! Big waves aren’t my thing. Last Facebook status update : “Love me a cold rainy sunday to do absolutely nothing!”
heff
Name : Mahina Maeda Age : 14
heff
Hometown : Sunset Beach, Oahu School : Kahuku High Intermediate Best Result : 2nd at North Shore Surf Shop Pro Junior at Sunset Beach. Won at the NSSA’s at Salt Creek. Best Advice : Keep on believing in yourself. Don’t let anyone get in your way. I just thought of that. Best Maneuver : People love my bottom turn, I guess. Double Grab Air - Old or Gold? Old Scariest Moment in the water : I’ve never seen a shark. There’s nothing scary about the water for me. I love the ocean. Last Facebook status update : I don’t post any facebook updates. I post Instagram photos instead.
Name : Moana Jones Age : 12
heff
Hometown : North Shore, Oahu School : Home schooled Best Result : 3rd at NSSA Best Advice : I don’t know. Best Maneuver : Power turns. Double Grab Air - Old or Gold? Old Scariest Moment in the water : Getting worked at the last contest at Ehukai. Last Facebook status update : Can’t remember.
Name : Tatiana Weston-Webb Age : 15 Hometown : Princeville, Kauai School : Kapaa High School Best Result : Probably the International Rip Curl Grom Search Final Champion. Also Pipe Champ when I was 14, but hopefully I will be getting more soon. Best Advice : My parents. “Breathe. Stay focused.” Best Maneuver : Off the lips. Barrels. I don’t know, all maneuvers are fun. Double Grab Air - Old or Gold? Gold for me. Double grab is air is definitely gold. Scariest Moment in the water : Would have to be a two-wave hold-down I got at a wave on Kauai. Last Facebook status update : Tomorrow is the day, let’s do this Hawaii Surf Team.
ryan foley
www.localmotionhawaii.com
OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace
Summ Summ B u y e r s
As surfers living in Hawaii, we are fortunate. We
pair of boardshorts? Is it because Dane Reynolds
Patagonia. I love their shorts because Patagonia
have an abundance of sunny weather, warm water
wears them? Maybe you dig Bruce Irons’ style and
makes odd number waist sizes, unlike most com-
and great waves. All we need for a surf session is
want his signature trunk. Or perhaps you like the
panies. Another bonus is that Patagonia will fix any
our surfboard and boardshorts, making our pursuit
fact that Billabong makes boardshorts out of plastic
damage to your boardshorts for free. Rounding out
of wave riding quite simple. A lot of us practically
bottles?
my quiver of boardies are a limited edition pair of
live in our trunks. While the surf industry contin-
Analog shaka shorts that photographer Mike Coots
ues to invent new fabrics and technology to make
Personally, I choose my boardshorts on comfort and
the ultimate boardshort, the design and style have
durability. At present, I own 4 pairs. My Quiksilver
changed very little since surfers first began order-
boardies are my oldest at 13 years. I bought them
What each of these boardshorts have in common
ing custom fitted surf trunks from M. Nii out of
at the Boadriders Store on Front Street in Lahaina
is that they are things of beauty. Each are stream-
Waianae and the H. Miura General Store in Haleiwa
back in 1999, when people were starting to get
lined, light, and made with durable material. In
back in the 1950s.
freaked out about Y2K. They are so old they have
short, these boardshorts are perfection. Heres hop-
lost color and have multiple holes, yet they feel like
ing your next summer purchase lasts you 13 years.
Which begets the question, why did you buy your
my second skin. Two pairs of boardshorts are from
photographed.
heff
mer’s mer’s G u i d e
Company : Aerial 7 Product : Phoenix Headphone Description : The PHOENIX headphone is the perfect accessory to hear your tunes this summer. The mid-sized headphones deliver massive sound with a slim profile in-line microphone and adjustable headband for the perfect fit. Contact : aerial7.com Price : $60.00
Company : Alpinestars Product : HD2 Velocity Boardshorts Description : 89% polyester / 11% elastane, Nano stretch (8-way), Sonic welded throughout Slimmer, shorter, faster version of the HD Boardshorts, 20’’ outseam performance fit. Contact : alpinestars.com Price : $89.95
Company : Analog Product : Seven Mile Description : 22” zip fly board short collaboration with The Defend Oahu Coalition and Hawaiian photographer Mike Coots with a portion of proceeds going to help protect communities on Oahu from the dangerous effects of large-scale development. Engineered horizontal photo stripe and contrast waistband and side pocket. Anti-slip draw cord with anti-rash lycra at front fly and rise. Signature selvedge denim belt loop and branding detail. 100% Polyester 2 way stretch. Keep the Country Country. Contact : analogclothing.com Price : $56.00
Hawaii’s Biggest and Best Selection of Surf Gear OFF THE WALL
Photo: Zak Noyle
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Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove
Company : My Evolution Product : Summer Party Shirt Description : Since 2002 My Evolution (ME)- To evolve from what was primitive to a state of evolution. A Revolution for progressing lifestyle. This is our Summer party design. Contact : myevolution.com Price : Varies
Company : Out Bluff Lures Manufacturer : Eric Baeseman Product : Rahjah Description : Out Bluff Lures are great fishing lures to take with you on your next surf trip or in between flat swell spells. All lures have a stainless steel wire that runs from front to back. All hooks are gladiator 6x with triple strength split rings. Bruce Irons, Jaimie O’brien, and Ikaika Kalama have been test casters for Out Bluff Lures and J.O.B. say’s he had a good strike on one! Contact : Find us on Facebook Out Bluff Lures Price : $9.99
Company : SACRED Kine Product : Kine Truckers Description : Uniquely embellished, artistic trucker hats designed with a splash of paisley, some with Swarovski Crystals and a diverse patten palate. The SACRED Summer 2012 line features also photographic series in a Men’s boxier fit, larger than the women’s hat selection. SACRED is an island inspired line, created by an artist with an outdoor fantasy. Sold at select retailers throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Contact : SACREDsurfhi.com Price : $32.00
alex rocks the helm_ Step up to the Helm with vintage inspired design and modern construction. For some different shades of Gray, point your phone here and see Alex handling. Follow his blog at www.turkeymelt.com. www.spyoptic.com
Company : Spy Product : Surfrider Hawaii Dirk Description : Mama didn’t raise a yes man… Put some tough on your face. A percentage of SPY + Surfrider Hawaii Dirk sunglasses sales go directly to the HI chapter of the Surfrider Foundation Contact : spyoptic.com Price : $129.95
Company : Spy Product : OMG! Description : As hot, smooth, elegant and grooving as the Kauai Girl that inspired it, the OMG! will keep aloha in your eyes and inspire breathless adorations about you, dawn to dusk, town or country. Contact : spyoptic.com Price : $84.95
Company : Spy Product : John John Florence Kubrik Description : Two first names are always better than one. Inspired by classic rock and life on The Rock, John John’s signature Kubrik features a matte black frame, gunmetal accents and black mirror lens. Contact : spyoptic.com Price : $104.95
Company : susu Product : Rubber beach sandals from hawaii. bright colors. 0% sugar. 100% sweet Description : slogan- “always see the sunshine side� dealers - marqet, driftsurfhawaii, happy haleiwa, spiral girl, slipperhouse, surf n sea, island energy, san lorenzo, northshore swimwear, oshima surf Contact : ameblo.jp/susu-hawaii/ Price : $14.00
Company : T&C Surf Designs Product : T&C Surf Junior Rashguard Description : Description: Solid or duall color block rashguard available in short or longsleeve in a variety of color ways. Contact : tcsurf.com Price : $24.95
Company : Tonic Shop Product : Luster : Leave-in conditioner & luxurious moisturizer. $14 Threesome: 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner and stimulating body wash. $12 The Chronic Shampoo: Daily shampoo specially formulated for normal and color treated hair. $14 The Chronic Conditioner: Daily conditioner specially formulated for normal and color treated hair. $14 Description : Tonic products are good to you and Mother Earth: organic, free of sulfates and parabens, not tested on animals and environmentally friendly. Contact : tonicshop.com (promo code: freesurf) Price : Varies
filtrate
Company : Vans Product : OG Slip bright colors. 0% sugar. 100% sweet Description : The OG Slip sandal is a super comfy Vanslite compression molded footbed, a Surf Sider inspired outsole and waffle tread pattern and classic prints and materials, the all new Sandal Sider is an innovative new sandal design with all the technology and style you expect from Vans. Available in four great models this season including a cool acid washed canvas and vintage aloha print. Contact : vanssurf.com Price : $34 .00
LEARN MORE ABOUT THE HD2 VELOCITY BOARDIES
THE HD2 VELOCITY BOARDSHORT
NANO-STRETCH fabric technology provides 8-way “Perfect Stretch”, which allows complete freedom of movement, but never sags.
Ultra-light, quick-dry, and non-rashing material.
Heat-sealed reinforcement and stretchable seams.
Water-Resistant Zippers for weight reduction and less drag.
Seamless technology throughout.
Non-rashing, waffle-core waistband.
CARISSA MOORE, leading the youth. Photo : heff
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aperture : in youth we trust
KAOLI KAHOKULOA , committed. Photo : baeseman
KAIMANA JAQUIAS, flaring. Photo : jason shibata
LANDON MCNAMARA, perfect pipe line. Photo : heff
KOA ROTHMAN, tunnel vision. Photo : latronic
KEONI JONES, late afternoon spin. Photo : heff
They Will Surf Again WHO : Life Rolls On Foundation (LRO), founder Jesse Billauer, and 20 paraplegic and quadriplegic surfers. WHAT : The 2nd Annual Hawaii ‘They Will Surf Again’ event WHEN : March 24, 2012 WHERE : White Plains Beach, Oahu HOW : With the help of qualified volunteers to assist, adaptive surfboards, and wheelchair accessible equipment and beaches, paraplegics and quadriplegics are able to experience the freedom of surfing a wave. WHY : To improve the quality of life for people with
spinal cord injuries (SCI), using outdoor sports as a platform to inspire perseverance and infinite possibilities. “In the beginning, I was young and I liked all the attention. Now I’m older and like everyone else to have the attention. I’m like the proud father looking at everyone doing things for the first time, coaching them a little bit, letting them use my board, watching them grow up and sharing whatever knowledge I have. I just play the wall and observe now.” —Jesse Billauer, Life Rolls On Founder
STATS : • Life Rolls On’s signature program, “They Will Surf Again,” hosts 9 events each year in 7 different states, including Hawaii, California, New Jersey, North Carolina, Texas, Florida, and Virginia. • Currently, there are more than 5.6 million Americans living with paralysis. • Jesse has been growing the foundation for the last 11 years and in 2010, Life Rolls On partnered with the Christopher & Dana Reeve Foundation to create one of the most dynamic paralysis resource organizations in the country. LRO now serves as a subsidiary of the Reeve Foundation and its West Coast headquarters.
kaleimaeole
handcrafted jewelry
Earth friendly Fine Silver Sunrise Shells and other designs available online at
www.96712jewelry.com or at the
North Shore CouNtry Market Open Saturdays from 8 am - 2pm
hugh slice advisory
1.808.637.8866
67292 Goodale Ave. Suite A-3 Waialua, HI. 96791
Surfing Jaws Legendary surf photographer Erik Aeder has just released a book documenting the most famous big wave on the planet, Jaws. Aeder has been there since the beginning, and Surfing Jaws documents the evolution of the tow surf movement and the monstrous waves that have been ridden since the early 90s. It even shows a photo of Shane Dorian’s recent exploits at paddling the place. The book gorgeously displays Aeder’s photos of Peahi, all the while properly conveying the otherworldly nature of the place. Huge gaping barrels and cartoon sized surfers on gigantic blue faces make the place seem like a futuristic version of surfing. The photos begin in 1993 when Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner first began tow surfing Jaws. Interestingly enough, a photo in the book shows Laird’s first wave at wave at Jaws, and it wasn’t of him towing but rather Laird paddling into one on his yellow and green Gerry Lopez gun.
spaghettini
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Open Daily from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm In the heart of Haleiwa
637-0104
Surf with a smile
Dr. John
Jones Dentistry
808 955 0058 1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814
Pipe Master Gerry Lopez wrote the introduction for the book, as well as the captions for all of Aeder’s photos. Lopez’s introduction is splendid and gives the proper context to his own personal history to the break. While the Hawaiians called the place Peahi, Michael McCurdy, the man who showed it to Gerry Lopez had named the place Atom Blaster. Whatever name you choose, this wave is still the benchmark that all big waves are measured by. You can purchase Surfing Jaws online at www.erikaeder.com/jaws-book/ or www.howiefrommaui.com/shop/surfing-jaws
Innersection 2012 continues to be the year of Albee Layer. Fresh off his Surfline Punt of the Month win, the regular-footer from Maui has just won Taylor Steele’s 2nd Annual Innersection contest. Albee’s winning video has just made him $100,000
richer and also keeps the Innersection crown in Maui, as 2011’s inaugural winner was Albee’s best friend Matt Meola. Coming in 2nd place this year was Jamie O’Brien, whose section gave Albee’s video a run for the money. When asked what he plans to do with this big paycheck, Albee said he is going to take his friend Dege O’Connell on a surf trip, and also start a food truck over in Maui. Congrats Albee!
... all you need is love! 815 Front St. Lahaina, HI 96761
151 Hana Hwy. Unit 1 Paia, HI 96779
808.661.6888
808.579.8882
(Located between Kimo’s & Cheeseburger In Paradise)
(Paia Courtyard Market)
Shop online at www.pakaloha.com
Pyzel Surfboards We goofed! Back in our March Board Buyer’s Guide, we mistakenly left out Mr. Jon Pyzel’s phone number and website info! You can reach Jon Pyzel at 808-223-3305, email him at pyzel@yahoo.com or check out his website at www.pyzelsurfboards.com. Sorry about that John. In other Pyzel Surfboard news, be sure to visit freesurfmagazine.com as we catch up with Mr. Pyzel to check out John John Florence’s brand new quiver for the WCT event in Brazil. Good luck John John!
L A S T
L O O K / Flynn Novak, finding paradise in Waimea’s Cathedral. Photo : Clark Little