V11n10 Bombucha by Freesurf Magazine

BOMB UCH A

FREE In Hawai’i

Ezekiel Lau / Photo: Brian Bielmann

Volume 11 Number 10 / 2014 Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide + Brian Bielmann + Waialua Sugar Mill + Board Story: Mick Fanning + Bethany Hamilton

PHOTO: CLARK LITTLE

JACK BARK

E D I S O N B O A R D S H O RT

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Official Qualifier of The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Wa t c h I t L i v e a t w w w . Va n s . c o m / H I C P r o & O c e a n i c S U R F C h a n n e l 2 5 0 & 1 2 5 0 H D

T H E October 27-November 10, 2014 North Shore Oahu, Hawaii

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Every winter, surfers from every corner of the world come humbly forward to eagerly put it all on the line at the worlds most alluring and dangerous wave, Pipe. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kiron Jabour, getting busy living. Photo: Brent Bielmann

Heff

Cover Story

Zeke -> Brian Bielmann

By Brian Bielmann I have been shooting Pipe from the water for the past four decades. I think my first time out was 1978. It has been my favorite place to shoot, especially late in the evening when the light is shining through the backs of the waves and you get the silhouette of the surfer. The photographers keep getting younger and crazier, which is how it should be, but there are fisheyes by the dozens on any given day and it makes it hard to get the long lens shots, which I love the best. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good fisheye shot. But there are only a handful of guys out there that really know what they’re doing. I still manage to shoot around the heads with my 70-200mm lens, and from time to time I nail one with a clean view of the wave looking big and beautiful. I’m just really stoked to still be out there with all the new surfers that rule Pipe these days. It’s funny seeing someone like Zeke grow up from a little kid into the big ole guy that he is today. But Zeke is the all around talent that professional surfers need to be today, in order to compete in all conditions. And when Pipe is on, Zeke is truly a standout. This was taken during the best two hours of the best day of the best swell of the year, and everyone was out. John John, Kelly, Jamie O, you name it. This was an epic day and probably some of the best photos ever for surfers and photographers alike. Just looking at it gets me hyped and ready for the new winter. Come on west swells, we are all waiting.

pau

Table of Contents

Features

Portfolio / Brian Bielmann

The photographer’s photographer

Waialua Sugar Mill

Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide

Profiling the world’s best

The season’s top surf and sand gear

Departments

Free Parking

Cover Story

Publisher’s Note

News & Events

Board Story / Mick Fanning

Aperture

104

She Rips

112

Grom Report

116

Environment

120

Shoots

122

Memorial

126

Industry Notes

128

Last Look

Tea Bielmann Photo: Brian Bielmann

Brian Bielmann

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher / Editor Lauren Rolland Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver

- with -

Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Editorial Assistant Sean Reilly

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Interns Cole Yamane, Stephanie Villalobos Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Chris Latronic Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock Free Thinkers Tiffany Foyle, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Shawn Pila, Tyler Rock

Senior Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Pete Frieden, Dane Grady, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Bruno Lemos, ManaPhoto, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila, Jim Russi, Spencer Suitt, Cole Yamane

Contributing Photographers Paulo Barcellos, John Bilderback, Kyle Burnett, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Damea Dorsey, Rick Doyle, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Hodgson, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Alex Ruybalid, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson

Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Office Manager Amy Withrow

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged

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Publisher’s Note

The Start of Something Big Although the sport of surfing has proliferated and populated greatly in recent decades, we are still very much a rare breed. Surfing is as much a social family as it is a personal dedication of life and limb in the pursuit of watery goodness and adrenaline infused gravity. There exists a certain intimacy, a brotherhood and a sisterhood, as well as a communion with nature. Whether you’re a beginner, a pro, a part-timer, a newbie or an old crusty veteran - we all share someTHING. Within our microsystem there are controversies, histories, small kind squabbles, territorialism, love, devotion, admiration and a whole range of socio emotional aspectsas in any culture. We share stoke. We share sunshine. We share waves. We care for our ocean. We care for each other. We are surfers.

Editor’s Note

This Bombucha issue holds within its pages a Beach & Board Buyers Guide, our annual handbook for the surf and beach enthusiast. Browse the Guide with all its boards, bikinis and other assorted goodies, and you might find something you’ve wanted for a very long time, or even a great Christmas present. There are over 30 different surfboards in this guide! So many designs and templates and ways to ride a wave it boggles the mind. I’m certain the perfect board is part of every surfer’s fantasy- and this Bombucha issue should be a great kick-start to your personal daydream. Enjoy.

- Mike Latronic Publisher

Heff

In this particular issue of Freesurf we go BIG literally. The extra sized pages reflect more of the great photos and stories we have come to love, while also sharing our culture and experience of Hawai‘i.

Hurley Pro at Trestles South Africa’s Jordy Smith edged out Hawai’i’s John John Florence in a last-minute victory at the Hurley Pro at Trestles on Thursday, September 18th. After a season of close calls, Smith opened his final campaign on a tear. Smith posted a nine pointer in the opening minutes of the final, combining multiple power-hacks and a critical closeout tail-slide. Moments later, Florence answered back with a full rotation air. With 10 minutes remaining in the heat, Florence struck again, stringing together two huge laybacks for an 8.60 and the lead. Refusing to accept defeat, Smith floated a massive closeout section, fought through the white water

and ended with a full rotation in the final minutes of the heat. Crucial wave selection and local knowledge prevailed as the San Clemente transplant Jordy Smith stole the lead and claimed the win. The Hurley Pro at Trestles was stop No. 8 of 11 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour. Next stop, France.

Rowland / ASP

Kirstin / ASP

News & Events

Final: 1: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 16.50 2: John John Florence (HAW) 15.87 Semifinal: SF 1: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 14.10 def. Adrian Buchan (AUS) 13.30 SF 2: John John Florence (HAW) 15.10 def. Kelly Slater (USA) 14.10

Red Bull

Team Honolulu wins 2014 Red Bull Qiantang Shoot Out The 2014 Redbull Quintang Shoot Out went off on the largest wave in the event’s history. One of the most unique surfing competitions in the world, this event is held during the annual Moon Festival that takes place on the Qiantang River in the city of Hangzhou, China. A dramatic tidal surge during the Fall Equinox produces proper double-overhead surf that moves at a speed upwards of 25 mph. Team Honolulu, consisting of Jamie O’Brien and Jamie Sterling, took home the $10,000 team first prize loot. JOB dominated the finals with a high scoring ride of 9.5, tying Phil MacDonald for the “Wave of the Shootout” win. Red Bull Qiantang Shoot Out Results: 1st - Team Honolulu | Jamie O’Brien & Jamie Sterling - $10,000 2nd - Team Gold Coast | Dean Morrison & Mikala Jones - $8,000 3rd - Team Hangzhou | Toumei & Phil MacDonald - $5,000 4th - Team Huntington Beach | Ryan Turner & Tosh Townend - $2,500 The Red Bull “Wave of the Shootout” | TIE | Phil MacDonald & Jamie O’Brien - $500 20

Kirstin / ASP Kirstin / ASP

Coco Ho

Stephanie Gilmore

Swatch Womens Pro Trestles Stephanie Gilmore took the crown at the first ever Swatch Women’s Pro in September. The Trestles final was an all-Australian rematch of this year’s Fiji Women’s Pro, however this time it was Gilmore who triumphed over fellow Aussie Sally Fitzgibbons. Five-time ASP Women’s World Champion Stephanie Gilmore notched the event’s only Perfect 10 and added a 9.50 to take the win. Second place for Fitzgibbons was sufficient to move the 23-year-old to the No. 1 spot on the rankings. Gilmore sits behind her in second place, and Carissa Moore (HAW), who was eliminated in Round 4, has dropped from first to third. The Swatch Women's Pro, the first ever women's WCT at Lower Trestles, was Stop No. 7 on this year’s Samsung Galaxy ASP Women’s World Championship Tour. Final: 1: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 19.50  2: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 14.03 Semifinal: SF 1: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 13.84 def. Coco Ho (HAW) 13.03 SF 2: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 17.04 def. Johanne Defay (FRA) 14.66 Quarterfinal: QF 1: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 15.17 def. Laura Enever (AUS) 12.23 QF 2: Coco Ho (HAW) 15.67 def. Lakey Peterson (USA) 15.00 QF 3: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 16.44 def. Bianca Buitendag (ZAF) 10.33 QF 4: Johanne Defay (FRA) 16.20 def. Tyler Wright (AUS) 15.13

Tin Tin

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Tin Tin

News & Events

3rd Annual LIVE LIKE SION GROMFEST, Kauai Story and Photos courtesy of LIVE LIKE SION GROMFEST Staff The day began in the dark as volunteers gathered to help set up for the 3rd Annual LIVE LIKE SION GROMFEST. The contest venue was at PKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on the south side of the island of Kauai, a place where Sion and his family had surfed countless hours together. The island was buzzing as they knew that the day of the contest had finally arrived after being postponed a month before, due to a close call from two hurricanes. With over 150 entries, the beach was packed as everyone posted up and got ready for a long day of family fun, while remembering SION MILOSKY and his way of life. The LIVE LIKE SION GROMFEST was designed around SION's belief of family first, friends, and surfing all combined into one event. Aunty Nalani Taylor opened the event with a prayer and a Hawaiian chant asking for safe passage and reminding everyone why we were here. The first heat paddled out at 6:45am as the buzzer started the first heat a little after 7:00am. The diviSIONs were all full, ranging from keiki push-in all the way up to 16-under Longboarding. This year was a little different as a 14-under open diviSION was added for rated kids, and of course the "PILI" diviSION was part of the competition too. Keiki push-in had 50 keiki alone, which was the most entries so far to date. In the "PILI", which was a team diviSION, an adult teamed up with a keiki under-12. Some of the names in the "PILI" were Dustin Barca and Evan Valiere, both long time friends of SION and his family. As the day wrapped up, and the final waves were surfed, the celebration continued as the awards ceremony moved over to Poipu Beach. Families and friends once again gathered together and cheered on all the finalists, as prizes and trophies were passed out. The keiki were glowing and wore smiles on their faces as they walked up to get their awards. We're not sure who had more fun, the keiki or their parents! pau

E L E C T I O N DAY N O V E M B E R 4

Discover Samoa!

7th Annual Hakalau Bay Paka Aloha Honua Festival Story and Photos by Shawn Pila Blues skies and salt air filled the beaches with families and friends for a fun-filled day at the 7th Annual Hakalau Bay Paka Aloha Honua Festival, held along the Big Island’s beautiful Hamakua Coast. The drug and alcohol-free event focuses on teaching kids about land and ocean awareness, water and energy conservation, the importance of recycling, leadership and how to live with respect and aloha. The Aloha Honua festivals are held each year at both Hakalau Bay and Honoli’i Beach Park, where they recognize the community and their hardworking volunteers who come together to restore the adopted surf breaks. Keith Nehls, aka “Bradda Skibs,” along with a group of dedicated Big Island surfers banded together in 2003 to form Basic Image Inc., a non-profit 501(c)(3) with sustainability efforts that focus on an enduring connection with the land and ocean.

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“It’s about bringing people together, taking care of what we have and making sure that we are doing it for everyone. That is the key,” explains Bradda Skibs. More than 40 keiki participated in the 12 and under surf, bodyboard and Ohana surf competition held in 2-foot brackish water rollers. Parents and spectators cheered from the river-rocked shoreline as musicians and hula dancers entertained the crowd. Many also participated in educational games and got their faces painted. Each contestant received an awesome goodie bag and the winners of each division ran away with a brand new surfboard. Stay tuned for the 11th Annual Honoli’i Paka Aloha Honua Festival & Surfing Classic coming this November 22nd, 2014. For event updates and more information on how you can participate, visit: www.pakalove.org pau

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10th Annual Kailua Shorebreak Classic Photos James Chan With a hurricane swell in the forecast, the 10th Annual Kailua Shorebreak Classic hosted 150 contestants ages 4 to 16 on August 30th at Kalama Beach Club on Oahu’s east side, under clear, sunny skies. The event takes places every year and is in memory of Peter Miller, Jason Bogle, David Aluli and Jeff Barbieto with 100% of proceeds from the sale of donation tickets going to four non profit organizations; Surf the Nations, Hawai’i Meth Project, Boys and Girls Club of Kailua and Hope Chapel Kaneohe Bay youth group. First place winners in all 5 divisions (Kai Phung, Junior Boys age 14-16, Casper O’neill, Boys age 10-13, Riley Pardini, Girls age 10-16, Asher Sprecher, Boys & Girls age 7-9 and Lucca Bacci, Super Groms boys & girls age 6-under) each went home with a brand new surfboard from HIC, Wade Tokoro and Gordon Hansen. Congrats rippers! Kailua surfer girl and 2014 USA Champion Brisa Hennessy along with DeMarco Surfboards each donated a board to be given to two contestants that displayed outstanding achievement in sportsmanship. Congratulations to Kaya Pestana and Caleb Martin on winning this accomplishment, and to Jake Heyer who won a board donated by Bert Ishinaru, coach of the Hawai’i Surf Team and one of the event’s organizers.

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Moku Hosts 1st Annual Long Beach Longboard Classic Not since the 1960’s has Long Beach been home to a traditional vintage long board competition, but on Saturday, September 13th, 60 participants made surfing history using only single fin long boards. Contestants, who ranged in age from nine to 65, were scored by classic contest criteria such as nose rides, hanging ten, cheater fives, drop knee turns, fin first takeoffs, spinners, length of ride and cross-stepping style and extra points will be scored for riding vintage logs with no leashes. Surfing Hall of Famer, Claude Codgen was among the competition’s judging panel. MOKU Surf is the only Hawaiian style surf shop in the New York metropolitan area. It carries a large selection of classic and performance style long and short surfboards, fishes and hybrids, along with several clothing lines, unique gifts and accessories. Many of MOKU’s surfboards are hand shaped in Hawai’i and there is a unique collection of vintage surfboards on display for the viewing public.

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21st Annual Ole Longboard Classic Photos Cuda On August 14, the 21st Annual Ole Longboard Classic went down at Launiupoko Park on Maui in perfect head high surf. The event saw 165 entries and 9 divisions enjoy surfing under a beautiful sky, and lunch was provided by Da Kitchen, Maui’s #1 plate lunch restaurant. A throwback to the fun longboard contest of the ‘60s, the Ole Longboard Classic was sponsored by Hi-Tech Surf Sports, Quiksilver and Da Kitchen Restaurant. Bob ‘Ole’ Olson presented the custom awards- a big congratulations to the winners below!

21st Annual Ole Longboard Classic Results: Men’s Open, 30-39 & Ole Division 1st in all 3 divisions - Kekaula Campbell

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Women's Open 1st - Mahealani Ah Hee Junior Women 1st - Sierra Lerback 19-29 1st - Matt Pasamonte 12-14

1st - Noah Hill 11 & Under 1st - Ty Simpson-Kane Tandem 1st - Augustino Constantino & Charissa Kimura

News & Events /

IBA HAWAI’I TOUR STOP #3: Sandy Beach Challenge, Oahu By Tyler Rock Bringing the Kellogg’s IBA Hawai’i tour back to Oahu for stop 3, the Sandy Beach Challenge saw a full field of bodyboard competitors. The stacked heats were a true mix of riders spanning multiple generations. From the older crew like Mike Stewart and Alistair Taylor to Guilherme Tamega, the Hubbards and Jacob Romero, all the way down to the youngest competitor, Matthew O’Rourke, age 12, the stoke of bodyboarding and level of action was a true testament to how dedicated Hawai’i’s bodyboard scene is. For two days, Sandy Beach’s Half Point delivered 2 to 4 foot wedgy bowls for the field to flip, spin, slash, roll and float over. By the time the quarters of the Men’s Pro field was in the water, every heat felt like a final. In the end, the top seed of the event and 3-time IBA World Champ Jeff Hubbard narrowly pulled out the win with some come-from-behind heroics that got him through multiple heats. Following suit, Jeff’s brother Dave Hubbard kept the throttle on full, hitting his peak in the action packed Drop Knee final where he scored a perfect 10 for a barrel/float combo over the notoriously shallow left section of Sashimi Rock. On the women’s side, once again Oahu west side girl Melanie Bartels continued her winning form edging out bodyboard veteran Karla Costa Taylor who managed a perfect 10 points for a clean extended ARS on her way to the final.

In the last heat of the event, the JR Pro groms suffered from a lack of set waves, but there were still some nugs to be found. Keeping busy, Cordon Stapp topped Kauai super grom Tanner McDaniel in third while Waimanalo local Kawika Kamai battled to take the lead from event standout Sammy Morretino. With Kawika getting one last stab at the end, it wasn’t enough to take out Sammy who, on the verge of turning 18, was competing for the last time as a Jr. Pro. IBA Hawai’i, Sandy Beach Challenge Results: Jr Pro 1st - Sammy Morretino 2nd - Kawika Kamai 3rd - Cordon Stapp 4th - Tanner McDaniel

DK Pro 1st - Dave Hubbard 2nd - Sammy Morretino 3rd - Cole Hansen 4th - Dayton Wago

Women Pro 1st - Melanie Bartels 2nd - Karla Costa-Taylor 3rd - Aki Ogura 4th - Kelly Gordon

Men Pro 1st - Jeff Hubbard 2nd - Guilherme Tamega 3rd - Trevor Kam 4th - David Phillips

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News & Events

‘Aha Kai Aloha By Daniel Ito Photos Kai Markell ‘Aha Kai Aloha is a one-day Hawaiian cultural surfing celebration that took place on Saturday, September 6, 2014 at Kuhio Beach Park in Waikiki. Former ISA Masters Women's World Rochelle Ballard and the Living Life Source Foundation hosted a dawn-to-dusk ho‘olaule‘a he’e nalu, bringing together youth, local communities and visitors for hula, music, wooden board building, lomi lomi and sharing wave sliding with at risk youth. The Hawaiian soul of surfing, rather than fierce competition, resonated as participants and spectators learned the evolution of the sport. Masters of wave riding, surfboard shaping, healing, food and music shared their talent and knowledge throughout the day. ‘Aha Kai Aloha featured educational workshops about the connection between Hawai‘i’s ecosystem and surfing, planting source material, wooden surfboard carving and Waikiki currents. Eight divisions were open to the public with contest fees waived for a canned-good donation at the event. Hawaiian watermen and women conducted free surf sessions for Waikiki’s at-risk youth throughout the day. ‘Aha Kai Aloha also featured an Alaia Invitational division. ‘Aha Kai Aloha 2014 Results: Intermediate Shortboard Under-12: 1) Michael Von Hohenstein 2) Jon Van Hohenstein 3) Haley Otto 4) Taylor Rojas 5) Kailey Bogart 6) Tiki Willis

Adult Shortboard Over-25: 1) Kahi Pacarro 2) Isaiah Walker 3) Kuio Young 4) Marcello Teixeira 5) Kaimaru Kiato 6) Kekaula Campbell

Intermediate Longboard Under-12: 1) Tiki Willis 2) Ayla Love Sprecker 3) Haley Otto 4) Kailey Bogart 5) Cloe Chester 6) Taylor Rojas

Adult Longboard Over-25: 1) Laakea Davis 2) Pono Campbell 3) Kekaula Campbell 4) Kaulu Kauwe 5) JR Moreno 6) Thompson Enos

Intermediate Shortboard Over-13: 1) Cayla Moore 2) Makani Walker 3) Charlie Akao 4) Kuio Young 5) Paliku Victorino 6) Nathan Hester

Kupuna: 1) Raymond Shito 2) Josephy Gaynor 3) Bob Van Dyke 4) Lori Zaynor 5) Isaiah Walker 6) Corbin Peleiholani

Intermediate Longboard Over-13: 1) Maui Zak 2) Benny Ferris 3) Kahia Walker 4) Julian Williams 5) Joshua Chester 6) Taylor Rojas

Alaia: 1) Benny Ferris 2) Scott McMurry 3) Kahi Pacarro

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Poetry in Motion

Mick Fanning’s magic sled that tamed J-Bay… again. By Chris Latronic Mick Fanning- the white lightning- undoubtedly destroyed this year’s Jeffery’s Bay Open WCT event with a spectacular display of classic natural footed carnage, impeccable wave knowledge and perfect board preparation. The waves were as near perfect as could be, with some of the longest rights you’ve ever seen. The competing World Championship surfers were truly living the ‘dream tour’ as everyone else drooled and spectated in jealous awe on the crowded South African shore and on the globally amassed web-land audience. But with all the waves to choose from, it was still serious 6 foot plus surf, thus positioning, wave selection and board selection became crucial. Especially as more water variables persisted through the lineup throughout the competition.

Corey Wilson

Board Story /

No jet ski assist, solid pumping overhead sets and sharkinfested waters? What would you pick to ride out there? For the seasoned veteran, Mick has been in the works with Aussie shaper icon Darren Handley, mastermind of DHD surfboards, for the past 10 years, developing the perfect competition shred stick. “Darren and I looked back to my boards from 2006 and 2002 (J Bay victories), picked out what was working and improved the rest,” Mick states. The board worked so well for Mick that he called it ‘Duck Nuts’ which is Aussie slang for ‘the best thing there is’. “Mick’s current Ducks Nuts is the sum of years and years

Heff

Board Story / Mick Fanning

of research and development. Everything that makes the board what it is today is based on what Mick and I have worked on together,” says Darren. ‘Duck Nuts’ J Bay board dimensions: 5’11 1/2” x 18 5/8” x 2 1/4” bolstered by carbon reinforcement and lightened by a 4×4. Team glass job. With a board like this mixed with Fanning’s championship talent, the speed, power and flow was all there on nearly every wave Mick paddled into. And with barely any unforced wipeouts at that. On his very first wave, Mick got tubed and that was it. The surfer was pretty much tapped in, dismantling all who stood in his way.

“He was slicing through the waves like a hot knife through butter,” recalls ASP commentator Martin Potter Mick’s impressive flow stayed in-tune throughout the concluding rounds, and he continued the slaying straight to the Finals. From there, Mick encountered a friendly fight with natural footed rival, best friend and surfing virtuoso, Joel Parkinson. Joel attacked first right off the opening buzzer, catching a beautiful set wave. But the gods denied his favor, as Parko was barely pinched on the barrel exit and negated from a huge first-strike scoring ride. On the other side of bad luck, Fanning got the very next wave of the set finding two barrels amidst a barrage of powerful white lightning

Corey Wilson

Board Story / Mick Fanning

carves, to receive an excellent 9.00 to take the early lead. Mick wasted no time dwelling and immediately got a good backup score, giving him a solid 17.00 heat total at the halfway point of the final, putting fellow ‘Cooly’ kid Parko in an unattractive combination situation. Although making a few refined-surfed waves, Parko was reluctant to find the near-perfect score he needed to catch Mick. Fanning relished in his second event win of the season with a final wave on that magic DHD board and a stylishly celebratory soul-arch.

pau

Portfolio /

BRIAN BIELMANN Hawaiiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s veteran photographer shares some of his favorite gems and the stories behind them.

Gabriel Medina, future world champ flying by in the clearest water imaginable.

Mark Richards at Pipe, I think it was 1982. I had been shooting for about four years and at the time, we thought that no one would ever be champion 4 times again! The ‘Wounded Gull’ was his nickname. This was shot on film with a 1000 Century lens at 250th of a second with manual focus; a lot different than shooting digital in an ‘auto everything environment’ like we have today.

Kalani Chapman showing defiance while flying high, obvious Michael Jackson inspiration going on.

The late great Marvin Foster, speed blur. Off The Wall back in 1980.

Freddie P., shot with a tilt and shift lens on a job for Transworld Surf. This shot has always been one of my favorite portraits.

Bob Marley at the Shell back in 1978. I'm so lucky to have these shots. I had only just started shooting, and didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know if I should have my f-stop turned all the way to 2.8 or 22. By sheer luck I chose 2.8 and now have about five classic shots of Bob in my files. It was one of the greatest concert experiences of my life. I was at the very front of the stage with a roll of color and a roll of black and white, a total of 72 photos. That's back when each shot counted. I wish all the kids that grew up on digital would spend a little time shooting film. Digital is great, I love it, but without film, you will never know the complete photography experience.

Backstage with Jack Johnson, Jackson Browne and John Cruz while they practiced the song ‘Take It Easy’ for the Kokua Festival crowd. Some of my best times were these last 5 or 6 years shooting the Kokua Festivals with fellow photographer Jim Russi. Anyone who knows me knows how I am about music, and getting to work with Jack and Kim on these events has been so rewarding. Knowing that in some small way my photos have helped them help the environment… what could be better than that?

This shot is of my wife underwater on the south side of Oahu, on the way to Waikiki for the 4th of July Floatilla. We came by boat and on the way, we saw a pod of dolphins and jumped in to swim with them. I used to shoot a lot of swimwear in the ‘80s, but now all my shots are with my wife Shawna (shown here) or with my newest model, my daughter Tea (see contents spread), all underwater.

This was Dusty Payne last year at Windmills, very high! I knew Dustyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dad when he lived on Oahu and he ripped. He moved to Maui and 30 years later, he still rips. Just letting you know where Dusty gets his surfing talent from.

I’ve been shooting Pipeline from the water for almost 40 years. Last year, on the best day of the year, I got some of the best shots of my life. Here’s Kelly Slater, hands down the best surfer of all time. It’s been great shooting him since he first came to the North Shore as a kid from Florida. These days I have to pace myself, as I figure I’m good for about 4 hours, so I usually skip the mornings and go for the backlight right up until sunset. I love the 70-200 lens, but every time Pipe is good, there are about 40 guys out with fisheye, so it’s hard to get this angle without 40 heads in your shot. But every once in a while you can nail a clean one. I just thank God I’m still out there.

This was an outtake from a Volcom shoot for the movie ‘True to This’. The concept was amazing and Volcom’s idea entirely. I was luckily in the right place at the right time. Clint Moncata used his boat and got that ramp out in the middle of the ocean and made the whole mission work. We had a beautiful sunset and I ended up getting the shot of the two skaters doing airs, which was used for the actual movie poster. When the sun set, that's when the real adventure started. But you need to ask Clint or Tai Vandyke that story.

This was an outtake from a Nixon photo shoot with one of my heroes, Mark Cunningham. This little spinner nailed me so good, it ripped my mask right off and I never found it. I think the coolest thing about my job all these years has been getting to work with the best athletes in the business, and fan out on the ones I respect.

Sion Milosky. I never got to know him very well except to say hi, but I knew he was good. I've talked to surfers who speak of his big wave surfing as though it was next level, and Nathan Fletcher considers him one of the best surfers of all time. I've had people tell me they thought this picture said it all. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m really proud to have this photo of him from Pipeline.

Greg Long // Photo: Epes / A-Frame

Tom Dosland // Photo: Brent Bielmann

Conner Coffin // Photo: Tony Heff

Kaito Kino // Photo:Cole Yamane

Mark Healey // Photo: Tyler Rock

Nathan Fletcher // Photo: Sean Reilly

Tai Vandyke // Photo: Brian Bielmann

Kevin Sullivan // Photo: Dooma

Isaiah Moniz // Photo: Zachary Ramos

Ha â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;a Aikau // Photo: Tony Heff

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(NEAR CHARLEY’S)

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WAIALUA

A SYMBOL OF SURF Rock

BY L AU RE N ROL L AND

Red dust settles on everything here. It’s hot, dry and quiet. The rusted white corrugated tin buildings stand out against the Waianae mountain range, and yellow wildflowers sprout up between cement cracks. The century-old Waialua Sugar Mill is a landmark of Oahu, yet few have ever been. After pulling into the nondescript entrance, I notice a shuttle bus outside of the North Shore Soap Factory and people in front of Island X Hawaii. My truck kicks up dust as I slowly round the corner to the far end of the property. It looks deserted back here and the buildings appear abandoned from the outside, but the pickups and cars parked along the cyclone fencing perimeters suggest otherwise. Wooden signs are fixed to the exterior of the oxidized buildings, displaying familiar symbols; ‘JC Hawaii’ in yellow slanted text, ‘Haleiwa Surfboard Company’ branded into dark stained wood, Pyzel’s recognizable black and white star logo.

Rock Island Fin Design templates dangle on a plywood wall.

Rock

The quiet doesn’t last long. As I step out of the car my ears tune into the sound of a sander- high pitched and gnashing. Electric planers, vacuum machines and grinders also whir away in the near distance. It becomes obvious that life brews within the Waialua Sugar Mill. In fact, there’s much more happening behind these closed industrial doors. Design, innovation, creativity… masterpieces are being made here. The Waialua Sugar Mill seems to have a multitude of connotations- coffee, sugar, soap- it just depends on who you ask. But probably the least publicized and most interesting part about the Mill is the co-op of shapers, glassers and fin makers that congregate here. They’re some of the worlds finest. I wanted to find out who exactly is part of this co-op of talent and what makes this underground industrial center tick. The Mill is possibly the greatest congregation of shapers in the world, and just so happens to be neighbors with the North Shore, a.k.a. ‘The 7 Mile Miracle’- the most notorious stretch of waves on the planet. With the recent entrance of Poi Dog Distribution, it also now houses hundreds of foam blanks, walls of Futures fins and other surf hardware that would make any surfer’s eyes glitter with excitement. The Waialua Sugar Mill is the epicenter for custom surfboard manufacturing on Oahu, yet it remains surprisingly covert. Larry Peterson of Seaside Glassing, one of Pyzel’s main glassers and one of the Mill’s first occupants, says that the co-op is really only known by word of mouth. Sure, most surfers that live on the North Shore probably have heard about the Mill. But few visitors, island neighbors and traveling pros are aware of the mecca that exists amongst the agriculture fields of Waialua. It’s a surfboard paradise.

Heads or tails.

CAM RICHARDS // LAST LAUGH

CHAOS MEETS CULTURE

DBLANC.COM

Rock

The Sugar Mill closed its doors in 1996 after being open for 100 years. It was Oahu’s last working sugar mill and had provided a livelihood for many of Waialua’s residents. After the Mill shut down, other businesses closed too and schools suffered a large drop in enrollment. The community struggled and the corrugated tin buildings that once harbored a lively sugar industry now stood desolate. The dust began to settle on the sleepy town of Waialua. It wasn’t until Larry Peterson and John Carper started sniffing around the property as a potential shaping location that new life sprang up at the Mill. Larry recalls that Erik Arakawa was the first one in, he was the second and John ‘JC’ Carper was the third. The three craftsmen paved the way for what the co-op would eventually become today- an industrial hub filled with local artisans who all share one thing in common, the love of surfing. The Waialua Sugar Mill is undoubtedly a unique place for these board builders to work. “The best thing about working here is you never have to worry about anyone shutting you down,” Larry remarks. It’s no secret that board shaping is a toxic art, and many craftsmen have been pushed out of their backyard shaping rooms because of it. But at the Mill, the guys are allowed to work without any trouble. And for the most part, these board builders and industrialists all seem to work together.

Pick your pallette.

Rock

Blanks on blanks on blanks.

J Mack

I interviewed a handful of the co-op members during my visit to the Sugar Mill and each one had a different perspective on what makes the location unique. From the old school experiences of John Carper, Steve Mock and Greg Griffin, to the fun and free designs of Two Crows, to the newer energies of Derek Young and Chad Terrell with Poi Dog Distribution, the Waialua Sugar Mill blends astute skill with originality. High performance boards, artistic lady logs, vintage fins and custom glass jobs, you can find it all here at the Waialua Sugar Mill.

Eric Arakawa Eric Arakawa Designs, shaper 17 years at the Mill On 40 years of shaping: “I started building boards with the sole intent to make boards for myself to save money. Shortly after I started, I got requests to make boards from friends, and friends of friends. Before I knew it, I was in business.” On the Mill: “Over the years it has evolved into a creative community of artisans. It is continuing to develop into the hub of the local surf industry.”

Larry Peterson Seaside Glassing, glasser 15 years at the Mill On the beginnings of the co-op: “The Sugar Mill had just closed down, so they were in the process of tearing buildings down. They were putting new roofs on and were getting things ready for rentals. I figured, if you want to make surfboards on the North Shore, where else are you going to go? This is the only industrial spot. You can’t do it in your backyard anymore.” On working at the Mill: “It’s a great place to work. It’s close to home. But I’d like to see it grow more. It doesn’t get any exposure or advertising, so that’s been the drawback. It’s surprising that people don’t make an effort to come out here to buy surfboards on a discount.”

John ‘JC’ Carper JC Hawaii, shaper 14+ years at the Mill On the Mill’s history: “Tens of thousands of people worked here, and Waialua was a very busy town back then. Due to rising labor costs, the Mill finally went under and remained semi-abandoned for years. Larry Peterson and I started writing letters and pestering them to rent us space so we could build surfboard factories, and they finally allowed us to start building in 1996.”

Eric Arakawa, on rail and on point.

Steve Mock Heff

Island Fin Design, custom fin maker 10 years at the Mill On the co-op and the North Shore: “The surf industry is all around us at the Sugar Mill. We have the best board builders in the world here and it’s so close to the Mecca of world-class surfing. I think every pro surfer considers the North Shore to be the testing grounds of surfing, therefore the finest surfboards are best to be built here. The world comes to your door. It’s the place where people come to experience the surfing world.”

Greg Griffin Greg Griffin Surfboards, shaper and custom fin maker 10 years at the Mill On the North Shore: “I’ve been here since 1980 and lived at Sunset Point for 33 years. A lot of surfboard design came from the North Shore, so it’s a great place to be.” JC’s finishing touch.

Uncommonly Beautiful

A musical mixture of culture, art and deep surf history...

Meme Moody, RA - North Shore Menehune Surf Contest, 1990â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

Experience Oahu's

North Shore Way of Life KARIN MOODY-TSUTSUI Realtor (808) 392-7410 KarinM@PruHi.com

MEME MOODY

Realtor Associate (808) 741-3835 MemeM@PruHi.com

Karin Moody-Tsutsui, R (808.392.7410) is an accomplished Real Estate Broker and an expert negotiator that resides on Oahu's North Shore. The basis of Karin's business is knowledge and the ability to understand the intricate details and subtleties of property in Hawaii. She leads a knowledgeable team that tracks and guides all details of clients' transactions. Karin and her team of experts will oversee and manage your escrow to accomplish a smooth closing! Whether selling or buying, there is always a need to fulfill and a goal to accomplish! Karin will listen carefully and assist you through the process.

www.PRUHI.com

Heff Pyzel knows you gotta love the grind.

Drew Sparrow Rock

Sparrow Surfboards, shaper 8 years at the Mill On working at the Mill: “I’ve been at the Sugar Mill since I moved here, so it feels like home to me. There’s so many guys making boards here, and if you need anything it’s right around the corner. It makes it really nice and comfortable.”

Jon Pyzel Pyzel Surfboards, shaper 5 to 6 years at the Mill On his beginnings: “I worked fixing dings first, then glassing for Ed Searfross at Country Surfboards, then shaping for Jeff Bushman. I really started shaping for myself in 1994.” On the Mill: “There are lots of good craftsmen making all kinds of different and cool things. It’s the only industrial area on the North Shore and it’s full of a lot of different personalities. Everyone seems to get along well and help each other out when we can.”

Steve Mock puts the fin in finesse.

THE WOR LD WHERE’S CLAY BEEN? Don’t worry about where Clay’s been. He’s been just fine, thank you. Instead of worrying about whether or not to button his top button or what color leg rope will best match his new boardshorts, Clay’s

been surfing. He’s been on his own trip. Doing shit like this. His world has been just fine: kine grinds, Maui vibes, killer kush, and solo sessions. How’s your world? The World Is SUPER.

I S SUPER.

PHOTO: BIL LY W ATTS

C LAY M A R Z O C HA P T E R 3

SU R F BOAR D S & APPAR E L . TH E WO R L D I S SU PE R .

N OW LI V E

Heff

Rock

Rough draft.

Watc Soa Bein

Made in Ha

Derek Young & Chad Terrell Poi Dog Distribution and NOVA Traction, owner/operator & vice president 1+ years at the Mill Derek, on the atmosphere: “It’s unique because you see all sorts of people here, from hobby shapers to people that shape thousands of boards a year. Pros, locals, everyone comes through and it’s got this industrial ‘up and coming’ kind of vibe. You don’t see it anywhere else.” Chad, on the Sugar Mill: “It’s a small version of a business district in lower Manhattan… like the meat packing district. Only we’re the surf packing district. There’s a lot behind closed doors that people don’t realize.”

The iconic white dome of the Sugar Mill and its tall smoke stack stand as a symbol of history and culture on the North Shore, but it should also stand as a symbol of surf. With industrial and entrepreneurial spirit deeply imbedded in its red dirt, the Waialua Sugar Mill has developed into a community of true craftsmen. pau

Location is everything.

Rock

Greg Griffin, keeping it classic.

Other members of the Waialua Sugar Mill co-op include: Two Crows Haleiwa Surfboard Company Surflight Hawaii | Jim Richardson Third Stone | Steve Matthews Schaper Hawaii | Carl Schaper Charlie Walker Noah Budroe Nat Wooley Mike Mattison Ivan Sardoa Matt Yerxa Owl Chapman Brian King

Stamp Your Soap

ch ap ng

Made in Hawaii

Take A Tour

Watch Soap Watch Soap Being Made Made in Hawaii Being Made! Take A Tour Take A Tour North Sh

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Watch Soap Being Made

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Watch Soap Being Made

67-106 Kealohanui St, Waialua, HI 96791 www.northshoresoapfactory.com 808-637-8400

Heff

Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide Fall / Winter 2014 “Winter is already here. Keep in mind that in larger surf, confidence in the line-up is essential, especially when the big sets start showing up. Confidence comes from the board you’re on and it needs to be a board that you can totally depend on.” -- Glenn Minami

Catch Surf - Jamie Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brien

Heff

Shige Ricca

Brice Surfboards - Kaulana Apo

Heff

Bret Surfboards - Flynn Novak

Bret Boards

Nitrous

Savage

Malolo

5’11 x 18 5/8” x 2 1/4” Shaped/Airbrushed by Bret Marumoto

6’2 x 19 1/2” x 2 5/8” Squash tail, 5 fin option FUTURES Shaped/Airbrushed by Bret Marumoto

5’5 x 29 1/2” x 2 5/8” Shaped/Airbrushed by Bret Marumoto

The newly refined outline, rocker and single concave to vee off the tail equates to immense speed. A squash or swallow tail compliments this board for all types of surf.

Bret Boards

Riders: Keala Naihe, Kalani Chapman, Isaiah Briley, Flynn Novak, Ezra Sitt, Burger, Moana Jones, Kai Jones, Koa Rothman, Sheldon Paishon, Mike Ho, Derek ho, Mason Ho, Coco Ho, Kala Alexander, Kai Borg, Tai Van Dyke.

Derived from the regulator series, this model has lowered entry rocker with a mild single concave bottom to double concave leading into a nice flat speed panel right in front of the back fin. The tail rocker has been increased with more tail flip giving the SAVAGE high speed turning accuracy for ultra high performance surfing.

MALOLO, “The Flying Fish”, is designed with the wide point pushed forward outline lower rocker in the nose entry. This helps in making it a performance fish shortboard with down the line drive to fly right thru the flat sections, but able to turn in the steep parts of the pocket also. The bottom rocker runs a generous single concave to double concave vee between the back fins.

(808) 783.4399 www.bretboards.com

Brice Surfboards

Catch Surf

Shaped by Brice Yamashita

Odysea Stump

Beater Pro Original 54 Smith Bros Model

Consistent, user friendly, performance surfboards, precisely crafted to each surfer’s needs. We have a collection of board models to suit all surfers and a wide variety of surf conditions. Mochi Rocket Tiger Blood Gas Pedal Xforce Pixel Zig Zag Seeker Choose the one that best suits you. Dealer: Clips Hawaii (808) 941.6777 822 Kaheka St. Honolulu, HI 96814 www.bricesurfboards.com

5-0’ x 22” x 3” Shaped by Catch Surf The world-famous Odysea LOG has a little brother! The all-new Stump will take you steep and deep or in the air! Available with tri or quad performance fin systems. (949) 218.0428 www.catchsurf.com

54” x 20” x 2.5” Shaped by Catch Surf The gnarliest Beater yet. All Beater Pro models feature the new Catch Surf performance fin system and custom graphic bottoms. (949) 218.0428 www.catchsurf.com

Latronic

Hi-Tech - Ola Eleogram

Kazuma - Imai Devault

Heff

Rock

Hawaiian Island Creations - Josh Moniz

Cj Surfboards

Hawaiian Island Creations

Hi-Tech

Womens Pro G Longboard

Bandit

Ole Longboard (Bumble Bee model)

Co designed by team rider Gina Belida. Flow through nose concave leading to hard rails and slight V in the tail makes this a very versatile board. Tip rides and hard turns 2 foot to 6+. Single, 2+1 or thruster. All Cj Surfboards shaped and glassed by the pros at Clearwater glassing Costa Mesa. As shown $545 Basic price $495 Photo by Hawaii Vaughn (949) 466.2420 www.cjsurfdesigns.com cjsurfoc@gmail.com Instagram | @cjsurfoc

5’9” x 19.5” x 2.5” Shaped by Eric Arakawa

9’4” x 23” x 3” The Bandit breaks all the rules as to what type of waves a mini-board can be ridden in. It catches waves easily and grovels well in small mushy conditions, but it’s actually a high performance shortboard in a mini-board disguise. Add one to your fall quiver. You may find yourself riding it all winter long. Available at HIC stores in Waikiki, Ala Moana Center, Kailua, Haleiwa, Maui Mall, Lahaina Cannery Mall & Hilo’s Prince Kuhio Plaza. www.hicsurf.com

Hulakai

Jud Lau Surfboards

Spud Model

Kelson Pro Model

7’0”x 21”x 2 5/8” Shaped by Jun Balanga

5’9” x 18 1/4” x 2 1/8”

This is a one-of-a-kind board shaped for your wave riding wahine, and is a great allaround board from beginner to advanced. Features an Acid splash on deck with a Foam stain on bottom, high performance S-Glass for greater strength and rigidity, a 3” tail rocker and a 5” nose rocker flip with a thruster FCS Fin set up.

Standard high performance shortboard. Ample rocker and a moderate single to double concave combine to make this the perfect board for Hawaii! If you could only have one board in your quiver, this is it. Designed to perform in a variety of conditions. Recommended as a thruster, can also be ordered as a quad or 5-fin. $495

Hand shaped in Hawaii. $725 (808) 896.3141 www.hulakai.com sarahhulakai@gmail.com

Available at Hawaiian Island Surf & Sport. Team riders: Kelson Lau, Tai Vandyke, Savanna Stone, Ulu Napeahi (808) 280.2749 judlausurf.com jud@judlausurf.com

Hand-shaped by 84-year-old Bob “Ole” Olson. Ole started surfing in 1948 in California. He opened a shop in Seal Beach in 1962 before moving to Maui in 1970 where he continues to hand-shape classic longboards. For the past 21 years, the Ole Longboard Classic has been a fun event for men, women & keiki at Launiupoko Park. (808) 877.2111 info@surfmaui.com www.surfmaui.com Instagram | @hi_tech_surf Facebook | Hi Tech Maui HI Tech Surf Sports 425 Koloa Street Kahului, HI 96732

Kazuma Surfboards Tanto 5’6” x 18.5” x 2.25” 26L Shaped by Chaz Kazuma Kinoshita The Tanto model is designed for the next generation of surfing. This board is built with the highest quality materials in the Kazuma Surf Factory on Maui. $445 factory direct price Team riders: Tyler Larronde, ImaiKalani Devault, Cody Young and more. Order at info@kazumasurf. com or online at kazumasurf.com (808) 575.7510 Kazuma Surfboards Int. 375 W. Kuiaha Rd. #62

Jud Lau - Aloha Lopez

Minami Surfboards - Mahina Maeda

Heff

Kimo Greene Surfboards

NRH

Heff

Mendonca - Danilo Couto

Kimo Greene Surfboards

Uhu

Ulua

6’ to 9’ length Width and thickness vary on surfers’ ability Shaped by Kimo Greene

6’ to 10’ length Width and thickness vary on surfers’ ability Shaped by Kimo Greene

The UHU is another of the fish line of high performance models. This board noserides and turns on a dime. Go Hawks.

The ULUA is a more advanced board that gets in early and gives you wave count to make your day. All the fish boards that I make are hand shaped by me. Go Hawks.

Maui Built The Hustler 6’0” x 20 3/4” x 2 1/2” Handcrafted on Maui and sold only at Maui Tropix Surf Co. Concave / Swallow / Quad

Team riders: Tia Blanco, Shiulina Wu (808) 841.5466 kimosurfer@yahoo.com kimogreenesurfboards.com

Mendonca Surfboards Viber Shaped by Paulo Mendonca An all around shortboard/step up with a mid range feel, due to increased volume under chest area and wide point forward. The tail is pulled in to be stable in Hawaii/Tahiti performance/barrel type waves. Very drivey in the barrel, but loose at top. Board tested at Teahupoo, Mexico, Chile, Bali and other spots with large success rate on slabbing pits. Team riders: Alex Martins, Danilo Couto, Rodrigo Koxa, Benji Darrow (808) 450.7621 mendoncasurfboard.com mendoncasurfboards@live.com

Epoxy and Polystyrene with Carbon rails www.mauitropixsurfco.com www.mauibuilthawaii.com

Team riders: Tia Blanco, Shiulina Wu (808) 841.5466 kimosurfer@yahoo.com kimogreenesurfboards.com

Minami Surfboards

F-12

F-3 Gun

6’0 x 18 3/8” x 2 ¼” Round Pin Shaped by Glenn Minami

(Lengths 7’0” - 8’6”)

The F-12 can be ridden at any length. This one pictured is a small step up for 3-5’ waves. The nose is a little wider than our F-2 performance model, which translates into easier wave catching. The tail end is like our F-2 so it performs like an all around high performance board. The XD bottom concaves create a lot of speed with solid carves and acceleration. (808) 387.9875 gnminami@gmail.com minamisurfboards.com 819 Moowaa St. Unit 203 Honolulu, HI 96817

7’4 x 18 1/2” x 2 7/16” Round Pin Shaped by Glenn Minami The F-3 is built for waves in the 2-4x overhead range. The outline and rocker are streamlined and will draw incredibly smooth lines over big juicy faces. Slight double concaves create a lot of speed and the ample nose/tail rockers provide good drive and looseness. It’ll hold in tight/steep spots on the wave and also cover a lot of area when it’s necessary to get to sections down the line. (808) 387.9875 gnminami@gmail.com minamisurfboards.com

J Weaver

Reid Surfboards

PowerDrive - Elijah Gates Nezzy -Surfboards Davey Boy. Photo: Chris Latronic Heff

Bryce Johnson

Rock

MS Distribution

MS Distribution Science Bodyboards

PowerDrive Hawaii Surfboards

Power Drive k-41

Power Drive Gun Model KP-31

5’9” x 19 “ x 2 3/8” Shaped by Yoshi Umeda k-41 is fast! The wide nose and tail area of this board allows it to paddle faster into waves, generate speed from take off and grovel past flat sections and turn smoothly without loosing speed. This is a performance shortboard model currently ridden by team riders Kaimana Jaquias and Elijah Gates. Works best in knee high to 3-4 foot surf.

Mike Stewart Template Series

(808) 741.7085 powerdrivehawaiisurfboards. com

After years of testing 1,000’s of different combinations of shapes and materials, we have now arrived at the three best performing shapes for the three principal approaches to bodyboarding. “Pocket” surfing, “Launch”ing for air moves and “Style” for mixing it up. We call this the Template Series. It’s been the key to an entire new realm of performance.

6’6” x 18 1/2” x 2 3/8” Round Pin Shaped by Yoshi Umeda Former Triple Crown champion Kaipo Jaquias’ gun model. This is a step up model, designed to be fast and stable in bigger surf. Kaimana rode this model in last year’s Pipeline Masters and it has been tuned up since then. This board features a strong rocker with a slight single concave to double concave, ending with a little “V” in the tail fin area. (808) 741.7085 powerdrivehawaiisurfboards. com

msdhawaii@hotmail.com www.sciencebodyboards.net

Reid Surfboards

Untethered

Hybrid Funboard

Sprocket

5’9 x 18 3/4” x 2 5/16” V: 24.6L Shaped by Chris Reid

6’8” x 19 3/4” x 2 3/4” V: 35.6L Shaped by Chris Reid

5’11 x 18 7/8” x 2 3/8” V: 27.0L Shaped by Chris Reid

The “Untethered” is my high performance shortboard based upon Kelly’s “Semi Pro” outline, but with a brought in nose and increased rocker for North Shore performance surfing.

Designed as a full volume board for those making the transition from a Funboard to a modern shortboard. Can be customized with HD photo quality graphics.

Single to double concave with Kevlar Vector net deck reinforcement. Full outline includes additional volume while maintaining an aggressive nose rocker.

(808) 398.4012 www.reidhawaii.com www.reidsurfboards.com chris@reidsurfboards.com Instagram | @ reidsurfboards

(808) 398.4012 www.reidhawaii.com www.reidsurfboards.com chris@reidsurfboards.com Instagram | @reidsurfboards

SUPERbrand - Clay Marzo

Brent Bielmann

SurfTech - Kalani Chapman

Brent Bielmann

Chris Latronic

Rock

RJ Surfboards - Takayuki Wakita

RJ Surfboards

Karate Kid

SUP Triton

Dimensions are custom to order Shaped by Robin Johnston

Dimensions are custom to order

This is an all around shortboard allowing for maximum performance in small to midsize conditions. Handmade in Hawaii, the Karate Kid has a single concave bottom, medium rails and a flowing midrange rocker. The sky is the limit with this model.

Designed and developed by Robin Johnston while on the Stand Up World Tour, this and all RJ Surfboards are made in Hawaii. With feedback from test pilots like Duane DeSoto, Ekolu Kalama and Antoine Delpero, the designs are majorly tuned in. Surprise yourself with what’s possible with a custombuilt epoxy board. Feel the difference.

$420 for Poly $505 for Epoxy Ream riders: Jensen Hassett, Maikai Burdine, Heimana Reynolds, Sally Cohen, Scott Mcnally, Kahi Pacarro Kelta O’Rourke, Luke Tema (808) 738.7873 rjsurfboards@gmail.com www.rjsurf.com

Starting at $985. Price ranges according to size, color, fins etc.

SUPERbrand Surfboards Pigdog 5’ 10”, 18 3/4”, 2 1/4” The Shapers’ Collective Its curvy outline, wide nose and pulled in tail make it a perfect fit for pulling in under the lip or taking off deep. It’s a sled for laying down carves on big open faces as well as flicking around in small beachbreak. The PigDog easily replaces 2-3 of your stepups and works in more conditions, making it the ultimate travel board. (808) 345.1028 www.superbranded.com lakab808@gmail.com

SUP team riders- Keola Auwae, Sally Cohen (808) 738.7873 rjsurfboards@gmail.com www.rjsurf.com

Surftech

Rusty Dozer

Simon Anderson Early Bird

Xanadu Octisquid

5’8” Nose Width: 12.87” Width: 19.25” Tail Width: 15.37” Thickness: 2.31” Volume: 26.0L TLPC Technology

6’0” Nose Width: 12.25” Width: 19” Tail Width: 14.75” Thickness: 2.31” Volume: 29.5L TLPC Technology

High-performance shortboard that rips in waves head-high and below. Packs about as much volume as possible into a shortboard outline, with a couple unique tweaks that keep it lively, including the chine rail by the front fins.

Features increased area in the nose and tail with deep single to double concave, and slight vee at the tail. Easily generates speed and allows you to draw out turns when needed or snap tight in the pocket.

$755

$715

(808) 596.8693 surftech.com

5’5” Nose Width: 16.75” Width: 20.75 Tail Width: 15.5” Thickness: 2.13” Volume: 31.5L TLPC Technology The Octisquid is a highperformance fish that flies down the line, turns on a dime and has that smooth rail-to-rail feeling of a round tail. $745 (808) 596.8693 surftech.com

Heff

Pila

Rock

T&C - Kekoa Bacalso

Surf Design Hawaii

Wooden Classics Hawaii

Surfboards Haleiwa

Surf Design Hawaii

New & Classic Designs

Creepy BP

Surfboards Haleiwa is taking orders for custom shapes from Dick Brewer, Pat Rawson & Mike Casey. This board was shaped by Pat Rawson for Kawai Lindo, Volcom team rider. It’s a 7’2” round pin tail. Contact for ordering Surfboards Haleiwa Nick Benuska (808) 561.7018 nkbemail@gmail.com www.surfboardshaleiwa. com

T&C Surf Designs CMXV

Have you had a freak career ending kickball accident that kept you out of the water for a long time? Need something fun to get back in rhythm? Well this is your board. It’s funky with all sorts of weird stuff going on. Developed and designed by legendary kickballer Creepy BP (retired), this board will have you feeling like a beginner all over again. Aaah, good times. (808) 936.1316 surfdesignhawaii@gmail. com instagram | @surf_design_ hawaii

5’10 x 18 1/2” x 2 1/4” Shaped by Glenn Pang High performance small wave board. Fuller outline with lower entry rocker allows the board to plane through flat sections and tail kick to still turn in the pocket. Foam distribution is a little fuller, allowing the board to power you through the weak sections of the wave. Order about an inch shorter and about 1/8” wider. Good for waves waist-high to little overhead. Standard squash tail. $480.00 (880) 621.5000 www.tcsurf.com

Wooden Classics Hawaii DUKE 6’6”x 18”x 1” – 7 lbs Koa Ala’ia Shaped by Gary Young Ala’ia Lite. NO fiberglass. Available in select Island Grown woods for surfing, table or wall display. This “DUKE” model was donated to Na Kama Kai for their fundraiser this October 18th at the Royal Hawaiian Monarch Room, Honolulu. Price ranges from $600 (albizia or ulu) to $2400 (koa, kamani or mango).

(808) 960-8559 woodenclassicshawaii.com gazaboo@yahoo.com

Freesurf’s Spring/Summer Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide is just around the corner!

Showcase your board, bikini, clothing line or accessories in our pages for 2015.

$395 per column slot $295 per cube slot

To reserve your slot, please call or email today! Early bird prices are available.

(808) 638-7395 info@freesurfmagazine.com

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Dakine - Billy Kemper

Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Blanc - Derrick Disney

Futures - Danny Fuller

BIKEFACTORY K480-D5 “Liquid” Depthcharge Bubble Shack Hawaii

Spend enough time on the water that your toes are webbed? Then we’ve got the frame for you! With Extreme Float Rating, these frames are engineered to go deep and come back up for air, every time.

Loofah Lathers Like wax to your board, Bubble Shack’s loofah lathers are a necessity for glowing, healthy skin. The perfect soaps for after-surf and sun! Biodegradable, reef friendly and they scrub away salt and sunscreen residue!

$149.99 Honolulu: (808) 596.8844 Waipio: (808) 678.1800 BIKEFACTORYHAWAII.com

Approximately $6.00 (808) 455.5900 www.bubbleshackhawaii.com info@bubbleshackhawaii.com

Brazilian Showroom Futures Blackstix 3.0 F4 – h: 4.37 | b: 4.22 | a: 14.22 EA – h: 4.57 | b: 4.40 | a: 15.16 F8 – h: 4.64 | b: 4.47 | a: 15.90 www.futuresfins.com

BSR Signature Bikinis Large variety of styles, sizes and colors. All sold seperately. Available from XS to XL in a variety of colors. Double Ruffle Bikini (Bottom) - $69 Crisscross Back Bikini (Top) - $62 Facebook.com/Brazilianshowroomhawaii Instagram | @Brazilian Show Room Hawaii

D’Blanc Working Title 100% Made In Italy // 5 Barrel Optical Quality Hinges // Base 6 European Polycarbonate Lenses // Metal Brow Bar // Available in Polarized. $110 - $150 www.dblanc.com

Dakine 6’8” World Traveler The World Traveler has been trusted for travel across the globe for the last decade! • Durable 600D polyester fabric outer • Heavy duty, molded, wrap around zipper • Internal and external compression straps • High quality wheels set in a structural hull • Padded, removable shoulder strap with stash pocket • Two Internal padded dividers • Internal fin and wax pockets • 11” [ 28cm ] Wall height carries up to four thruster boards without fins, or up to three when traveling with longboards

Honolua Surf Co. UNDERCOVER Boardshort 100% polyester engineer printed hydrostretch boardshort with side pocket and a waistband designed for comfort. Comes in a vintage tropical pattern - the perfect wintertime color scheme.

$320

Team riders: Buzzy Kerbox, Archie Kalepa. Patrick Fukuda, Kiva Rivers, Isaac Stant, Kalani Vierra.

(800) 827.7466 dakine.com

$54.50 honoluasurf.com

Hawaiian Bath & Body Natural Skincare Natural Soaps Start your day with healthy, radiant skin. Our quality, handcrafted soaps and skincare help retain your skin’s natural beauty. “Get Clean Go Green” with natural skincare that’s gentle and soothing for you, safe for our Oceans. Waialua (808) 637.8400 orders@hawaiianbathbody.com www.hawaiianbathbody.com

Imperial Motion Lipton 2 Boardshort

Kainani Flagship Trucker

4-way stretch board short with scalloped edge styling, two-tone heathered pattern, heat transferred logo details and IM's signature Tight and Right waistband that allows the drawstring to run entirely through the waistband creating the perfect fit. 19" outseam.

Embroidered on the North Shore of Oahu, the Kainani Flagship trucker makes the perfect addition to your outdoor adventure.

$59.95

www.kainani-co.com Instagram | @_kainani

$25.00

imperialmotion.com @imperialmotion

Local Motion Beat It The Beat It tee is a men’s premium cotton shirt built to be as comfortable as it is fun. Be the life of the BBQ in the Beat It tee. $25 (808) 922.7873 localmotionhawaii.com info@localmotioninc.com Follow us on Facebook and Instagram @ localmotionhawaii

Kainani Dreamland Bikini Our Dreamland top features a beautiful peek-a-boo detail in the center of the bust and is double lined with Italian lycra and is 100% seamless, making it reversible! The back of the top showcases three braids, matching perfectly with our seamless reversible Dreamland cheeky bottom. $47.50 (Top) $47.50 (Bottom) www.kainani-co.com Instagram | @_kainani

Luli Luli Bikinis Suva Bikini Set Malu Eyewear Kapu = Sacred MALU Sunglasses are made of the highest quality nylon injected wire frames, featuring “High Def Polarized, Polycarbonate Lenses.” Our durable shades provide the highest “UV & UVB Protection” along with unparalleled comfort and style. (714) 960.1957 www.malueyewear.com

Fringe Criss Cross Top Tie Side Bottom A swimwear line for kids based on the North Shore of Oahu. Inspired by the girls of the North Shore who love playing in the sand, rolling in the surf and surfing the waves. Fun and colorful designs bring out the beach spirit in any young Wahine. lulilulibikinis.com Facebook | Luli Luli Bikinis Instagram | @lulilulibikinis Pinterest | LuliLuli Bikinis

Noelani Designs Durga Earrings Nectar Sunglasses Drift Let yourself go. Relax and enjoy what you have in front of you! Oh yeah, and if you rock the Drift Nectars, you will naturally become the center of attention. Be ready for it. $25 nectarsunglasses.com

14k goldfill hammered hoop with freshwater pearl and power stones of blue topaz, iolite, kyanite and moonstone. These earrings bring superpowers to make your woman feel and be beautiful! $128 Available online and in store. www.NoelaniDesigns.com Noelani Studios Boutique, Haleiwa

Nalu Swim Sunset Horizon (Top) Koral Reef (Bottom) The Sunset Horizon top lets you paddle and play freely, with an adjustable cross back to keep you covered and surfing till sunset. The Koral Reef bottoms feature a low rise and ruched back, so you can flaunt what you’ve got and get some sun on your bum! $45 (Top & Bottom) www.naluswim.com Instagram | @NALUSWIM

NOVA Traction TITAN / Rasta

NOVA Traction TITAN / Tropical

The TITAN pad has a medium arch with a medium kick. It features NOVA’s “Cleat Technology”, a unique diamond pattern with an all-terrain tread.

“NOVA, combining function with design” $37 www.NOVATRACTION.com

Pakaloha

Green Rasta Hat

Golden Flower Hat

Pink Green Camo Hat

Pakaloha Bikinis has a variety of hats for both ladies and gentlemen. These one-of-a-kind snapback trucker hats are a great way to protect your face while spending countless hours in the water.

Lahaina (808) 661.6888 Haleiwa (808) 637.8882 Paia (808) 579.8882 Pakalohamaui.com @pakalohabikinis

Sanuk - Torrey Meister

Sean Reilly

Marcus Bloss

Kainani - Chelsea Yamase

Latronic

Honolua Surf Co - Bonga Perkins

Perfect Bar Peanut Butter

Peace of Hawai‘i Ocean Trends Co. Love, Peace, Shells, Beauty… Peace of Hawai‘I with you wherever you are. Ocean Trend Jewelry made with handpicked shells & sea glass. 10% of proceeds benefit YWCA of Kaua‘i. Prices starting at $30 Code: freesurf2014 www.peaceofhawaii.com Instagram | @peaceofkauai

A nutrition bar so different, it's in the refrigerated section of your favorite stores. No chemical preservatives, artificial ingredients or refined sugars. That's Perfect Bar, the freshest nutrition bar ever created...#itsthebar $2.49-$2.99/bar $20.00-$24.00/8 ct box (866) 628.8548 www.perfectbar.com service@perfectbar.com

Plate Lunch Tapa - Aloha Shirts Plate Lunch offers "Made in Hawaii" aloha shirts, produced with premium materials in limited quantities. Our shirts feature coconut buttons, custom woven labels and our signature hand-carved art in a classic feeling reverse print. $100 www.platelunch.com

Ryders Eyewear Hillroy Similar to a baroque symphony featuring a celebrity DJ, the Ryders Hillroy is a classic design with modern upgrades. $40 for standard lens $70 for polarized

SACRED Surf Hawaii SACRED truckers feature a fitted artistic hat created for the active outdoor enthusiast. Mountain or ocean, you’ll see these hats on snow or sand. $32

1 (800) 665.2903 www.ryderseyewear.com

(808) 469.5274 www.SACREDsurfhi.com www.lehuacreative.com Instagram | @SACREDsurfhawaii

Sanuk

Sea Kissed by Kris

Cassius

Sea Glass Necklace

On a scale of one to awesome… these are awesome!

Adorn yourself with a kiss from the sea. Local handcrafted sterling silver sea glass necklace made by our local wahine - Sea Kissed by Kris!

- New “No-Ledge” profile - Waxed twill, 5/8 lace up with custom print soft canvas lining - High rebound, molded EVA footbed featuring AEGIS antimicrobial additive - Happy U rubber outsole - Vegan and Vegetarian MSRP: $70 www.sanuk.com

$35 (808) 636.3102 www.seakissedbykris.com Facebook | Sea Kissed by Kris Instagram | @seakissedbykris

Scarfini Surfboard fins handmade from surfers for surfers, using the world’s leading technology and materials. Works with all popular fin systems. For base construction, chose from bamboo/hemp, hydroflex or carbon. Dealer inquiries available: (808) 352.5879 www.scarfini.com scarfinifinshawaii@yahoo.com

Chris Latronic

Nectar Sunglasses - Jamie Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Obrien

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Vissla - Kaimana Jaquias

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Volcom - Tom Dosland

Watermans - Jamie Mitchell

Surf N Sea Haleiwa Tee The famous Surf N Sea & Hurley Collaboration Haleiwa Tee. 100% Poly Cotton blend for comfortable premium fit. Available only at Surf N Sea in Haleiwa or online at www. surfnsea.com. $25 www.surfnsea.com

Tonic Shop

Surfboards Haleiwa Iwa Bird Tee Surfboards Haleiwa classic designs on t-shirts are now available. Choose from two designs- the Surfboards Haleiwa classic logo (pictured) or the sun logo. $25 (808) 561.7018 Nick Benuska nkbemail@gmail.com www.surfboardshaleiwa.com

The Art of Heather Brown – Limited Edition Inside these beautifully bound art books, get an in-depth look into Heather Brown’s journey to becoming the "godmother of modern surf art" while taking a 10 year retrospective of the artist’s contemporary art career. Receive free shipping from 10/15/2014 to 10/22/2014 using code: FREESURF $250.00 www.HeatherBrownArt.com/freesurf

Vissla HandMade Stoke

Protect your locks and master beach chic all year round! All Tonic products $10 with a free gift! code: HOLIDAY tonicshop.com

20” PROGRESSIVE FIT 4-way stretch boardshort made in coconut fibers, with an all over print, side seam scalloped egde, key cord, and Vissla woven labels. Made from 92% Coconut / 8% Spandex. www.vissla.com

Volcom Lido Mana & Island Camo BoardShorts 21” outseam boardies made from our recycled 4-way stretch blend, cinch fly technology and side zip pocket! A portion of proceeds from our Hawaii only product will go directly to the Boys and Girls Club of Hawaii! MSRP: $49.50

Watermans Sunscreen Aqua Armor Face Stick This beefed up version of our original Face Stick provides extra protection when you need it most. Watermans cosmetic grade protectant will not run in your eyes or negatively affect your performance. www.watermanssunscreen.com

www.volcom.com

CHOSEN Bethany Hamilton By Tiffany Hervey

It has been over 10 years since Bethany Hamilton lost her arm to a shark attack. This is the incident that defines her to the outside world, but it’s not something Bethany really even thinks about or talks about anymore. It didn’t take surfing away from her. Instead, it only further solidified Bethany’s faith in a higher power. Bethany Hamilton wasn’t spared a tragedy, but chosen rather to speak a message to audiences beyond what pro surfing alone could have provided her with. This woman didn’t merely survive a shark attack. She has become a blueprint for how to thrive in the face of challenges. Growing up in Hawai’i, Bethany wanted what every grom wants: To become a professional surfer. Earlier this year, the athlete won the Surf-N-Sea Pipeline Women’s Pro and is still stoked on the first place finish. “It felt great to finally win an ASP sanctioned contest,” she beams. “I surfed strong and competed smart!”

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These days, the 24-year-old competes in select events that interest her. Bethany likes competing, but doesn’t love it. “This and next year, my focus is surf trips for good waves,” she says. “I want to surf big barrels and rip-able waves. I’m driven to get better and step it up on my aerials. Surfing is a constant challenge.” Short powerful reefs, with barrels, and ripping rights or lefts — basically Hawai’i waves — are her favorite. The Kauai girl also has sights set on a left in Namibia that the Smith boys recently surfed, and would also love to score solid Teahupoo soon. Last year, Bethany got married to Adam Dirks. The two first met at the beach, a sort of set up by friends, and the first thing they did together was jump off of a cliff. “You could say it was love at first cliff jump,” Bethany laughs. “I was immediately so intrigued by him.” The two started hanging out often – hiking, beach, tennis, socializing with friends. With Adam being from Kansas, it was an adjustment being paired with someone who wasn’t a surfer at heart. But the relationship continued to grow.

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She Rips / Bethany Hamilton

“I never had the desire to meet a ton of guys, or to ‘experience’ different people,” Bethany explains. “I think our culture has really messed up relationships… I wanted to be patient for that right one, to share life with that special someone in a deep and beautiful friendship. As Adam and my friendship grew, I quickly knew he would be the man I would spend my life with. I’m thankful I waited. He was, and is, well worth the wait.” While she loves being married, Bethany has learned that experiencing life together also means supporting each other in all endeavors. “You must be selfless and thoughtful toward your spouse,” she explains. “You must communicate well and not hold things back. The greatest thing for a marriage is forgiveness; being quick to forgive is essential.” The couple recently competed on the award-winning TV show, Amazing Race, which premiered the new season on September 26. “I loved that we did so many things we may never have had the opportunity — or be so crazy — to do,” Bethany recalls. “I learned that we really work great together and how thankful I am for the way Adam treats me with love, kindness and respect. Many men could learn from him.” As a motivational speaker and author, Bethany currently does ten to fifteen speaking engagements per year. Despite living on the North Shore of Kauai, Adam and Bethany

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KAIN

WWW.KAINANI-CO.COM

PHOTO:MARCUS.BLOSS

Brent Bielmann

She Rips / Bethany Hamilton

travel five to seven months out of the year, so they cherish every moment they get to spend at home. Bethany is passionate about health, so cooking and fitness have become lifestyle hobbies as well. “I just love to eat healthy, and often I’m naturally eating vegan or vegetarian — local and organic as much as possible,” she relates. “I love shakes, veggie juice, dark chocolate, good coffee! I eat seeds, nuts, beans, fish, eggs and chicken.” For fitness, Bethany often works with Dustin Dillberg who helped her write her new book, Body and Soul. “We focus on my posture and body alignment first, then my strength, agility and flexibility,” she maintains. “I use the TRX a bit and a bit of weights, and change it up with different moves. I try to be sure to get some kind of exercise every day.” Media is also a big part of Bethany’s life. The accomplished author recently had her book Body and Soul published in April of this year. It is meant to inspire girls and women to live a healthy and active lifestyle. Previously, Bethany released a documentary called “Heart of a Soul Surfer”; an autobiography entitled Soul Surfer that was then made into a major motion picture based on her life story; has a small part playing herself in the movie “Dolphin Tale 2” released in September; and has a new film in the works with Aaron Lieber called, “Bethany Hamilton: I Surf Like a Girl” set to release in Summer 2015. While persevering in surfing with one arm, Bethany uses her experiences to encourage others to be strong in the face of optimism. “Think on the things that you know are good and true, and focus on what you are thankful for,” she advises. “Life is so precious and should be cherished. There are lessons to be learned. Often, through challenges and difficult times, we have the opportunity to grow, mature and learn our strengths. Or it may show our weaknesses that we can work on and grow in.” Bethany’s faith is also essential to her inspirational message. “I cling to my hope in Jesus Christ. When I am weak, He is strong,” she adds. “Also choosing the right people we surround ourselves with will play a role in hard times.”

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Dooma

Grom Report /

Ocean Romeo Macedo By Sean Reilly

Hometown: Lahaina, Maui DOB: October 17, 2002 Height/Weight: 4’9/ 75 lbs. Stance: Regular Sponsors: Brian Bulkley, Mokulele Airlines, Honolua Surf Co., Dakine.

kids are ridiculously talented, technically sound and extremely courageous. It goes without saying that Hawai’i has no shortage of youthful endowment, but this talented upand-comer is a step above the rest. Ripping and slashing his way to podiums throughout the country, Ocean has proven he is a contender in all conditions. There are big things to come in this little guy’s future. What is something that everyone knows about you? Instead of sleeping in and having waffles, I would rather wake up at 4:30am to go surf.

Part merman, Ocean Macedo could not have a more fitting first name. This 6th grade wonder-grom may as well have gills considering the amount of time he spends in the water. When Ocean’s not wreaking havoc at Lahaina Harbor or leading a grommet take over at Honolua Bay, you can probably find him below the surface slaying uhu with papa Macedo. From shore break shenanigans to death defying Sunset Beach, the Pacific is Ocean’s domain. Quite possibly the most competitive age bracket to ever grace the contest scene, Hawai’i’s Under 12 division is beginning to look like a pack of hungry QS veterans. These 112

Do you remember the first time you ever surfed? When I was 1 and a half years old my dad would take me out on his longboard at Lahaina Break Wall. I don’t remember much, but I remember I didn’t want to go into the water. My dad would trick me. He would say, ‘lets just get one.’ Then we would get one and he would say, ‘just a few more.’ I’m glad he did though. Where is your home break?

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I have four surf spots within five minutes from my house- Beaches, Pools, Lahaina Harbor and Break Wall. But Lahaina Harbor is my homebreak. I surf it almost everyday in the summertime. My school is a block away and my house is a 5-minute drive.

What or who motivates you? I crave the feeling of getting barreled. It keeps me coming back. My parents motivate me too. My dad is my surf coach and I probably surf with him at least half the time.

So what’s your favorite break? Honolua Bay because it is a long barreling wave with an air section at the end. I caught my longest wave ever there. Tell me about that wave. I took off at Coconuts, got barreled through the point, a turn at Middles, another turn at The Cave and an air section Keiki Bowls. It was one of my first waves of the session so I had to paddle back out. It took me 15 minutes to get all the way back out. Favorite maneuver? The air reverse. I try to mimic my buddies Cole Alves and Eli Hanneman. Middles has a good air section. Riding for Brian Bulkley, you must have quite the arsenal. What’s your quiver look like? My go to board is a 4’9 thruster Beach Break Model. I also have a 4’8, a 4’10 and a 5’0 step up. I like to longboard too, so sometimes I’ll take out the soft top Wave Storm.

You may have one of the most competitive divisions of youngsters Hawai’i has ever seen. Do you have any friendly rivalries? Surf buddies who push you in and out of the water? One of my best rivals is my friend Eli Hanneman. Brodi Sale, Cole Alves, Jackson Bunch and Axel Rosenblad are also good friends who push me to surf better. I really like having the competition. It makes all of us better. You’ve been on a tear lately. What are some of your recent accomplishments? Second place at 2014 Surfing America in Boys U12. I also got second place at the 2014 Hawai’i State Championships 2014. And last season I got 1st in Open Boys at NSSA Sunset Beach. I would say I’m most proud of my Second at Surfing America because it is out of the whole nation and it was at Lower Trestles. Tell us about your future goals. In five years I would like to be competing in ISA Worlds and pro-am events. Eventually I would like to win Nationals and become a pro surfer. When you’re not surfing, what else do you like to do?

Name your favorite surfers. I really like Joel Parkinson because he looks so calm and relaxed. But I look up to Gabriel Medina because he does big airs, is good at getting barreled and is consistent.

I enjoy spear fishing a lot. I got my first spear gun last Christmas. I usually go out with my dad and a few of his friends. I recently shot my first nenuhe and uhu! I also play a bit of kendama, but I’m no Noah Beschen. I spend a lot of time playing in the shorebreak too. I live right in front of a fun spot called Beaches. pau

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Gary Young – Discovering The Secrets Of The Wood Photos and Story by Shawn Pila

Gary Young is not your typical surfboard craftsman. Known as the pioneer of wooden-skinned surfboards, Gary is a Big Island businessman who loves shaping unique boards. But the man isn’t into this craft for the money. Rather, he is passionate about the art of it, and building eco-friendlier surfboards that are more resourceful than your typical high-performance shred sticks. Born and raised in California, the 66-year-old has been mixing ingenuity, skill and passion for preserving the environment into making greener surfboards since 1976. Growing up in a world suffering from a fuel crisis, Gary said it became apparent to him that there was a need for an alternative process for making surfboards. By the time he was 28, Gary had already created his first laminated wooden-skinned surfboard without the use of fiberglass. The innovator calls this process, Natural Fiber Composites (NFC), which is a product development process using mostly wood/epoxy laminates with a dual density extruded polystyrene foam core. A vacuum bag laminating process (that Gary also invented) allows the wood to follow the compound curves of the shape blank, completely conforming to the 3-dimensional surfboard figure. Now more than 30 percent of the products used in Gary’s work stem from renewable

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energy resources, containing no fiberglass and using less than half the amount of the normal resin usage. Unlike the polyurethane foam used in most surfboards, extruded polystyrene foam is recyclable, emits fewer toxic gasses and contains a minimum 20% recycled content. To Gary, there’s just no better option. “The problem with fiberglass is that all the fibers within the thread of the weave have to be wet out by polyester resin in order for the system to work,” Gary explains. “With wood, you only have to get the surface wet in order for it to stick together because all the fiber is already surrounded by the natural part of the wood; therefore, it uses less resin.” Although many customers commend Gary for the beauty of the boards, he says there is more to it than just looks. “It’s more than just a pretty board,” he describes. “It’s wood combined with technology, minimalizing oil-based materials and maximizing the qualities of the wood.” Today the shaper works out of his home on the Big Island of Hawai’i, a place he speaks of passionately, as if it had always been home. “The Big Island is magic and I attribute that to the volcanic energy, the newness, the rawness. The way the lava goes from orange to black is like creation right before your eyes,” Gary illustrates. “The mana (energy) of Pele is a new or creative energy that I find inspirational to my creative urges.” Since moving to Hawai’i, Gary Young has made a name for himself as an inventor. Creations like the bamboo-skinned surfboard that he established in 1996 have gained popularity, and the craftsman is now experimenting with albizia, a rapidly growing tree that caused major damage to the Big Island after Tropical Storm Iselle hit the area in August. Thousands of the fallen albizia trees and branches obliterated power lines and made access to peoples’ homes nearly impossible. Power outages lasted for more than two weeks and many residents are still recovering from the damages. Known to be fast growing yet brittle, (dropping large branches even during mild windy days) the albizia trees are a nuisance to many Hawai‘I residents. But to Gary, he believes there’s a way to use and repurpose these invasive species. “It is a wonderful material if you pick the right wood. It’s light, strong and leaves no pressure dings,” he said. “There is tons of albizia that is being wasted and it is really becoming a symbol of bad things. But all of that wood that is just sitting and being rotted out by bugs could be used.”

After messing around with scrap pieces of albizia that he used to build a friend’s canoe, Gary decided to shape a traditional looking Ala’ia. The board builder quickly realized that if he cut the pieces thinner, he could use it for making high-performance surfboards. “Here’s a way that we can take a resource that grows here in Hawai‘i, that is a weed or pest, and make stuff out of it. Why cut it all down?” Along with bamboo and albizia, Gary uses other fine woods such as oak, teak, ash, mahogany, Norfolk pine, balsa and Hawaiian woods like koa, kamani, mango and ulu. Gary says that one of the most fulfilling parts of shaping these types of surfboards is when you lay down the first coat of resin. “The wood really comes alive!” he exclaims. “But the best part is when you’re sitting in the water and the board is glinting at you in the sun. There’s some quality to the wood that just makes the ride much more satisfying to me, and I’ve been surfing for over 60 years.” Gary believes Hawai‘i to be a pinnacle of potential for showcasing and pioneering new products, and would love to put together a team of like-minded individuals to manufacture different commodities using albizia and other fine woods. He believes that creating a nucleus of a business around this menace of albizia could help manage the overgrowth and could be very profitable in a broader market, such as furniture and other commercial applications. “But it’s not just about money and stamping Hawai‘i on it,” says Gary. “Yes I need enough money to do the things that I like to do, but I am not into flashy things. I am really passionate about my woodwork and doing things the right way. Like using Hawaiian resources, like the wood that grows here, and providing meaningful work that doesn’t pollute the environment or pollute the lungs and brain cells of the guys doing the work.” Gary continues to support small organizations and non-profits, and has recently donated a classic “DUKE” Ala’ia Lite to the Na Kama Kai fundraiser that will be held on October 18th at the Royal Hawaiian Monarch Room in Waikiki. Gary’s artwork can also be found at a handful of local surf shops and is featured in numerous fine art galleries in Hawai’i and California. His latest display is showcased at the Naniloa Resort in Hilo. For more information on the beautifully crafted wooden surfboards, sailboards, canoes, paddles and furniture, visit www. woodenclassicsHawaii.com.

pau

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Dane Grady My goal is to be known for originality, for finding waves that are different, for creating images that are unique. This Image represents that quest. I took this photo about five hundred feet above the water, leaning against the side of a tree, on the edge of a vertical cliff, a few miles into a very unfrequented area. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t name the location of the photo, but I did shoot this in Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i. I believe I have found a special niche in my photography career, and I want to preserve the location of this image. In this photo, two waves are colliding. A small wave, about 5 foot high, was sent from the coastline a hundred feet or so inland. The large, explosive mid winter wave coming in met that small wave at the perfect moment, causing a brilliant fan. My favorite things about this image are the contrast of lighting and the illuminations on the interior of the wave. No PhotoShop involved. Just nature at its finest.

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Manny Lopez, PR

Rentals, Lessons, & Sales Meeting All Your Surfing Needs With Aloha! Now three convenient locations... Waikiki, Hale’iwa, and Long Beach, NY

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Jay Adams Paddle Out Memorial

This September, hundreds of friends and family gathered at Waimea Bay to share and celebrate the life of surf and skateboarding icon Jay Adams. “Authentic” was the word that many people used to describe Adams. Beyond his personal accomplishments in skateboarding, his legendary position in the history of boardriding, the partying, the passion, the ups and the downs and his struggles – the main theme was that Jay lived life with humility and authenticity. Huge respect and aloha to those who paddled out and shared on this beautiful day. Though tears flowed, so did inspiration and goodwill. The man was truly one of a kind, and all present were super touched by the love and admiration in laughs and tears that outpoured. Aloha Jay. You are so very loved.

Cira Delao Photo: Mike Cerrone

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Rest in Peace Kalani Foster

By Mike Latronic When I was 13 years old I really didn’t know much, but like most teenagers, I thought I did. Only with time and retrospect does one begin to glimpse reality, and now looking back at my youth, there was much to learn. Especially to appreciate each and every day. But there was one thing I did know very clearly and almost immediately. The first kid ever to visit our house on the North Shore from high school was potentially one of the greatest teenage surfers I ever saw in the 1970s. His name was Kalani Foster. Younger brother to Pipeline surfing legend Marvin Foster, Kalani possessed classic Hawaiian style, fierce power and agility. Being a haole boy straight from the mainland, I could barely understand what Kalani said in his thick pigeon English. But I knew we were going to V-Land… Kalani wasn’t much for big words anyway. Kalani didn’t need to say a thing when I saw him get his first set wave and go straight through the lip of one of those churning double up barrels. It was plain to see the kid was special. Kalani Foster was born December 4th, 1962 and raised on the North Shore of Oahu. He learned to surf from his older brothers in what locals would call ‘hanabata days’, a.k.a. just out of diapers. Surfing at Haleiwa, Laniakea, Backdoor, Sunset and Velzyland were his favorites and when Kalani entered local surf meets, he always placed in the finals.

The surfer was known for his big power hacks and cutbacks. And from what I saw, also possessed the natural gift to be a world champ, had he directed his energies. Foster had a raw talent and knowledge of the ocean unlike any other kid I’ve ever seen before him. I remember it was around 1976 and we were still riding old-school single fins, but Foster was throwing hard carving turns like a combination between Dane Kealoha and Buttons. The Hawaiian was an all around waterman and had a lot of aloha to share. Back in those days it was pretty hard to make a living from surfing, so eventually Kalani worked as a heavy equipment operator for various construction companies. Foster never stopped surfing and still loved to compete- as recently as 2012 and 2013 he entered the Haleiwa International and won the longboard division twice in a row! In November of 2013, the community was devastated to find out that Kalani was diagnosed with stage 4 liver cancer. On September 15th, 2014 he passed away peacefully. The man put up a good fight. He gave his life to Jesus and was reborn with faith in God. Foster volunteered his time at the Menehune Surf contests held each year at Haleiwa, and will be missed dearly, especially by the keiki who affectionately called him “unko Kalani.” They said it won’t be the same anymore with out “unko Kalani” and I know everyone who had the pleasure of knowing him will agree. He is the Ali’i of Haleiwa. Missed by many and loved by all, Kalani Foster will be remembered as a fierce surfer and a humble Hawaiian warrior.

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Industry Notes ASP Changes Their Name. At the start of 2015, the Association of Surfing Professionals will officially change their name to the World Surf League (WSL). “We’re making the change because we believe the new name is easier to understand, and gets us on a better track to serve our fans, athletes and partners, and to grow the great sport of professional surfing worldwide,” says CEO Paul Speaker. Spy secures JJF. SPY announced that John John Florence will continue to carry the torch for SPY after signing a multi-year deal. Slater announced his new brand OuterKnown, which will hit stores next Fall 2015, with collections for both men and women. “We are tirelessly working on a brand that explores the relationship between style, sustainability and travel… Outerknown is a brand that references my travels, and stands for the values I believe in,” states Kelly.

Hi-Tech Surf Sports helped sponsor the 27th annual Larry Libres Memorial Fishing & Diving Tournament at Kanaha Beach Park on Maui this past August. 322 Oama fishermen lined the shores for this free contest, while 306 divers swam the reefs and waters. Congrats to 13-year old Jandon Llego who poked the biggest tako, weighing in at 7 lb., 10 oz. This octopus was the second biggest in the 27-year history of the tournament.

Honolua Blomfield took home two wins at the MSA Classic in Malibu, congrats! And the Billabong Pro Tahiti webcast set new records this past August. ASP was pleased to announce that the event generated the largest live audience in the history of professional surfing. The ASP webcast delivered 2.2 million hours of live competition and reached more than 12 million households on live television. The Huntington Beach Walk of Fame induction took place on Thursday, July 31st on Main Street in front of Jack’s Surfboards. Congratulations to Randy Rarick, ‘Surf Pioneer’ and to Larry Bertlemann, ‘Surf Champion’, who were inducted in! In international news, Tiago “Saca” Pires, the best Portuguese surfer of all time and ASP World Tour pro surfer since 2007, has just become a SurfTerra Ambassador. SurfTerra is a global community for surfers and photographers, and Tiago says it’s “a bold and innovative project” and that he’s “very happy to be SurfTerra’s Ambassador.” “Beyond The Surface”, a documentary directed and produced by Crystal Thornburg-Homcy and Dave Homcy, captures a groundbreaking journey of India’s first ocean seeking ladies. Breaking free of social and cultural boundaries, these inspirational surfers are setting a mark for the future of women in India and beyond. Catch the screening dates at the Hawai’i International Film Festival (HIFF) on Nov. 2 at 12:30pm and Nov. 4 at 4:15pm at Regal Dole Cannery Stadium 18 and IMAX.

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HIC has moved its Waikiki store barely a hop and a skip away into the Hard Rock Cafe building, located at 280 Beachwalk, just off Kalakaua Avenue. The new shop is between Bill’s Sydney Restaurant and Brandy Melville, and will continue to provide Hawai’i’s biggest and best selection of surfwear to visitors and locals alike in Hawai’i’s tourist Mecca.

Pakaloha Bikinis is excited to introduce two new product lines for skin care, both made here in Hawai’i. “Maui Vera” is an organic sunburn relief and after sun moisturizer and “Maui Supreme” is a special blend of coconut, Kukui and Jojoba oils that is perfect for the skin, face, hair and body. Both products are available at all three store locations. Noelani Studios on the North Shore is now offering “Hot Buddhi Yoga,” a playful, hip shaking, gyrating, rhythm/dance-infused yoga practice with intention. Come and work your bikini booties ladies! Build your beach confidence and get ready for this winter. Body Glove International is excited to announce the signing of a licensing agreement with Push Creations, LLC. to create a new line of Body Glove watches. These timepieces are made from the highest quality materials and are water resistant up to 300ft. Fit 2 Shred just released their second DVD called “The Encyclopedia of SUP Fitness” with over 60 SUP specific exercises, which sells for $29.99 at Fit2Shred.com. This is a great companion for the Encyclopedia of Surf Fitness and has completely different exercises. Get in shape for the winter waves! North Shore Soap Factory just launched their brand new website, so be sure to check them out at northshoresoapfactory.com for handmade, local soaps with refreshing and tropical scents. Or stop by their shop at the Waialua Sugar Mill on Oahu. Brazilian Showroom announces their Loyalty Program for bikini lovers! Each dollar spent at Brazilian Showroom equals 1 point, and once you reach 200 points or more, you get a free bikini! Check out their Haleiwa shop across from Banzai Sushi and score authentic from Brazil clothing and bikinis for 50% off on their sale rack!

Surf with a smile

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Small Treasures

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Last Look

If going left is wrong, Mark Healey doesn't want to be right. Photo Jim Russi