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Eli Olson Photo: Ryan Chachi Craig

NATHAN FLETCHER VA N S . C O M / S U R F

©2015, Vans Inc.

The Costa Mesa and Slip Up fe a t u r i n g c o m fo r t .

INVITEES Aaron G old Albe e Layer Bruce Irons Clyde Aikau Tom Carroll Dave Wassel Garre tt McNamara Grant Baker Gre g Long Ian Walsh Jamie Mitchell Jamie O’Brien Je re my Flores John John Florence K ala Ale xander Ke lly S later

Koh l Christensen

Ben Wilkinson

Derek Dunfee

Makua Rothman

Jamie Sterling

Brock Little

Mark Healey

Billy Kemper

Nath an Fletcher

Shawn Dollar

HONORARY INVITEES

Noah Joh nson

Carlos Burle

DONNIE SOLOMON

Peter Me l

Kealii Mamala

ANDY IRONS

Ramon Navarro

Gabriel Villaran

MARK FOO

Reef McIntosh

Michael Ho

MARVIN FOSTER

Ross Clarke- Jones

Kai Lenny

RONNIE BURNS

Shane Dorian

Kahea Hart

Ricky G rigg

Sunny Garcia

Nathan Florence

JAY MORIARITY

Damien Hobgood

LESTER FALATE A

Kalani Chapman

MEL KINNEY

Takayuki Wakita

ALTERNATE INVITEES Mason Ho (Aikau Pick)

Ryan Hipwood

PETER DAVI

Danny Fuller

SION MILOSKY

Danilo Couto

Nic Lamb

TIGER ESPERE

Mark Matthews

Anthony Tashnick

Todd Chesser

Koa Rothman

Rusty Long

QUI KSI LVER .COM /EDDI E

Always a sight for sore eyes, Pipeline’s inagural swell breathes new life back into the North Shore once again. Photo: Tony Heff

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FREE PARKING

Heff

COVER STORY

By Ryan Craig This photo of Eli Olsen is actually from last winter, the day the Pipeline Masters was called off that the WSL caught a lot of slack for. At the time, it was in the middle of the afternoon and the waves were pretty hit or miss, just out of control. Guys had low heat totals and it looked unrideable. So they called the comp off and after a couple of hours, it cleaned up and became one of the best days of the entire winter.

Right after the contest ended, a lot of people paddled out. I think Koa Rothman got a cover that day, and every person got at least one or two clips from that day as well. Every photographer that was at the North Shore was in the water.

Being from California and coming to Hawaii, you always want to see Pipe look like this and it was pretty exciting. In order to get that shot, I had to deal with couple sets, getting caught inside and washed around. That particular wave I was really far outside and was swimming back into the pack, and had seen the same wave earlier just from different angles.

With the west sets, you could see the sets coming way in advance and if you held your line, if you held your ground you could pick off one nug when everyone was paddling back out. This wave was crazy, I was kicking to be up high and as I went into the wave, I could see it was a good one.

I didn’t know that it was Eli, because it all happens pretty fast. I didn’t know him at the time and when I later saw him, I showed him the photo on my phone and he was frothing.

Looking back, I was further outside at Pipe than when I would normally be. It’s pretty much everything you’d want in a photo for a Pipe shot: a local kid, a backlit huge wave during the last hour of sunlight. It’s one of my best shots from the winter.

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Ryan Craig

NEW

Editorial

Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Editor Cash Lambert Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Social Media Coordinator Keoki Saguibo Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock, Keoki Saguibo Free Thinkers Bryan Altman, Blake Lefkoe, Jeff Hawe, Lauren Rolland, Arielle Taramasco

Senior Contributing Photographers L I M E C OL A D A

Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Pete Frieden, Dane Grady, Bryce Johnson, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Laserwolf, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila, Jim Russi, Jason Shibata, Spencer Suitt, Tai Vandyke

Contributing Photographers

OLA DA T ROPICA L C P I Ñ A COL A DA

John Bilderback, Marc Chambers, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Rick Doyle, Isaac Frazer, Jeromy Hansen, Pete Hodgson, Joli, Kin Kimoto, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Nick Ricca, Gavin Shige, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Cole Yamane Senior Account Executive Brian Lewis Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez

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FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

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The only constant is change. It’s a loaded statement but no matter how you approach life, everything is in flux.

Especially in Hawaii. The seasons have changed and the motion of the ocean has intensified. The beaches have changed with early winter storms, shifting sand around and changing the landscape of the beach and the undersea contour. The wintery trade winds are beginning to cool off, compared to the warm breezes of summer. Days grow shorter. Waves grow bigger on the North Shore’s, and smaller on the South Shore’s. It’s part of the pattern of change.

Aside from the tens of thousands of ‘regular’ migrating surf lovers filing into the Hawaiian Island chain, about 500 of the planet’s best surfing athletes have made their appearance known. Breaks all over the state, but particularly on the North Shore of Oahu, are swelling with fresh talent from all over the world. Several of these surfers are vying for the ultimate prize of a WSL World Championship title on the men’s side and similarly, the WSL Women’s Champion will be decided on Maui.

This issue features a variety of surf news, images and profiles that speak to this change. Like coverage of the HIC Pro, presented by Vans at Sunset Beach, the Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa, which is the first jewel of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, as well as the third event of the Kellogg’s IBA Hawaii Bodyboarding Tour on the Big Island, presented by Science Bodyboards.

We also created a series of interviews dubbed “For the Record,” catching up with heavyweights like John Florence, Adriano De Souza, Ian Walsh and Tatiana Weston-Webb.

This December issue of Freesurf also highlights the life and work of a recently fallen soldier of photography and good vibrations. As a follow up to our memorial story in the previous issue, this month the work of Jeff “Mana” Walthall is showcased, noting that proceeds from the sale of his photography for this will be directed towards a non-profit foundation currently being constructed in his name.

As usual there’s a bevy of industry related news, wild ocean images and plenty of fun under the sun to keep you engaged. We are starting to include and announce bonus materials like added images, videos and insights – found online at Freesurfmagazine.com for many of the stories and features we cover.

Everything changes, from the Hawaiian seasons to even Freesurf, which is now evolving online.

Keoki

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Keoki

NEWS & EVENTS /

IAN WALSH CROWNED 2015 HIC PRO CHAMPION Proper 10-15 foot Sunset conditions, a legion of Hawaiian veterans on hand as well a brigade of hungry and international youth and an opportunity - a golden ticket rather - to collect enough points for entry into the the forthcoming Triple Crown events: the 2015 HIC Pro! Since 1984, this contest has marked the green light for the winter season on the North Shore’s hallowed sands, and since 1989, Hawaii-living residents (think Michael Ho, Andy Irons, and Pancho Sullivan) have taken home the trophy, along with a crown of flowers, a swanky check and momentum into the winter season.

This year’s winner, Ian Walsh, was no exception. Born and bred in Maui, the 32-year-old is best known for his big wave exploits at deadly breaks like Jaws, and though his competitive repertoire is already established - he won the 2005 HIC Pro soundly - his dominant first place finish a decade later seemed to only further solidify his surfing acumen.

“For this win, it’s hard to explain. It feels so good,” Walsh said after the 2015 HIC Pro award ceremony concluded. “You have a goal you’re working for, and to finally be there and stand on the podium and hold a check above your head, it’s hard to put into words. Originally when I won this event 10 years ago, I wanted that feeling back again. You get a little taste and then every event you want to do it again.”

What Walsh did again and again throughout the contest was just that: win. He posted multiple high heat and wave totals throughout the four day event with solid wave selection, eye for finding clean faces and powerful carves. In and out of the water, the Red Bull-sponsored waterman exuded confidence through sight and sound.

“If I’m in a contest, I want to win,” Walsh said after slashing through the early rounds. “I wake up in the morning and if I’m going to put a jersey on, I want to win the event. That’s pretty much the only drive that I need.”

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NEWS & EVENTS / HIC PRO

Kaito Kino

Though Walsh’s headstrong run wasn’t ever in doubt, there were a handful of other storylines entering into the early rounds, like Danny Fuller, the 2014 HIC Pro winner, who was looking for a back to back run. “At the end of the day it feels really good being a defending champion,” the Kauai native said before surfing on the first day. “But it’s Sunset and all I can do is my best.”

And Danny’s best was more than enough to push through the early heats. Fuller looked calm and his surfing looked crisp. From the chatter heard in the competitors area, early bets sat on Fuller’s name.

Finn McGill, Hawaii’s youngest competitor at the age of 15, showed a sense of calm on his first day, pulling the trigger on the first wave of his HIC Pro heat and later winning that heat. “A lot of Hawaii kids have an advantage to the others because we have contests at all these breaks that the Primes are at during the Triple Crown,” Finn said. “We have NSSA’s at Sunset, Haleiwa and we even have contests at Pipe, so it warms us up a lot to these kind of contests.”

Other early notables included Bruce Irons’ nostalgic carves and eye raising drops, all while riding a bright red ‘Rising Sun’ colored board in memory of the late Andy Irons. And hometown hellman Jamie O’Brien was hot on Walsh’s tail by posting high heat totals, doing so without a camera crew in tow.

“I’m always trying to get in the Triple Crown,” O’Brien said. “I love competing in Haleiwa, probably my second favorite wave in the world. And Pipeline is definitely a great event, I’d be stoked to surf the Vans World Cup out here as well.”

But by the quarterfinals, Fuller, McGill, Irons and O’Brien had each bowed out, replaced with the likes of Jack Robinson, Ola Eleogram, Hank Gaskell, Billy Kemper, and Walsh.

Australia’s 17-year-old Robinson was the contest’s only competitor to score a perfect 10 of the event, doing so on the first day of competition.

Keoki

NEWS & EVENTS / HIC PRO

Billy Kemper

And Ola Eleogram, although his surfing was a successful combination of careful wave selections followed by attempting nearly-unmakeable maneuvers in the 10-15 foot conditions, was a hot topic because of his surprising board selection. Minutes before Ola’s early heats, cameras caught the Maui-native eyeing the HIC-provided Eric Arakawa demo boards. Moments later, the 29-year-old picked one up, added his own personal touch and was in the water for his upcoming heat.

“I took some of my good boards to Mexico during the summer swells in Puerto Escondido and they never made it out of Mexico,” Eleogram said in a post heat interview. “I got some boards coming but they weren’t ready for this event. You shouldn’t ride a brand new board in a heat, but you gotta do what you gotta do. The board felt really nice… so I took it out there and it did the job. Thanks Eric!”

With every contest comes a shroud of subjective controversy, and the HIC Pro was no exception. On the scheduled final day, HIC Pro Surfing Director Marty Thomas called the contest off midday and a muddled reaction from the competitors area was palpable.

“This morning we had some solid surf on hand, 12-15 even 18 foot,” Thomas said after announcing the finals would run the following day October 31. “After the round of 32, we decided to stop the event. There’s some wash through sets coming through. The surfers are really taxed from the paddling, getting caught inside, as well as the water patrol. There’s forecasted bigger sets this afternoon, so we want to come back tomorrow. The forecast for tomorrow is excellent, showing surf in the 8-10-foot range.”

Which proved to be the right call, because the extra day’s rest given to competitors showed in the form of fireworks for the final rounds. Walsh, exploding through the quarters and semifinals with powerful and patented high scoring carves. Robinson, adding flashes of contest-jersey color to roaring whitewash all the way to the final. And Hawaii’s Billy Kemper alongside local Kaito Kino, both showing more than enough sparkle and flair to make their case for participation in the last heat of the contest.

But the closing heat, with all aforementioned athletes, appeared over just as quickly as it began. Walsh roared out of the gates with a 9.33 and

Kamalei Alexander

Heff

NEWS & EVENTS / HIC PRO feverishly backed it up with 7.07, thrusting a knife in the strategies of the other 3 competitors. Billy Kemper held his cool long enough to fire back a 7.17, and by backing it up with a 6, secured his second place standing. Kino fought back on multiple low scoring waves, and Robinson went cold, ending the final in fourth place.

“I didn’t find the waves at the start,” Robinson later said about his strategy. “Ian and the other guys got in position. I’m stoked to make the Final, just get in the rhythm of contests again.”

“I wanted to start early,” said Walsh, talking strategy. “I feel like a lot of years I surf up until the Semi or Final and then I seem to change my strategy and I feel like I need way bigger scores than what got me to that point, and at this whole

Finals 1st: Ian Walsh, 16.40 2nd: Billy Kemper, 13.47 3rd: Kaito Kino, 11.74 4th: Jack Robinson (AUS), 7.33

event I just tried to keep the same strategy, the same rhythm and just do the same things over and over and treat it like another heat … If the wave gives you a big canvas, light it up. If not, whatever wave you stand up on you have to make it count. Whatever wave you get, surf it to its full potential.”

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Tom Servais

NEWS & EVENTS /

ANOTHER VIEW FROM JOHN FLORENCE’S BLUE MOON PREMIERE The high chance of rain didn’t thin the turnout at Sunset Beach Elementary for the surf movie seen ‘round the world. Neither did the apocalyptic traffic, which was bumper to bumper for at least a mile (yes, both ways) outside of the venue. And the realization that nearly every patch of soggy grass within eyeshot of the screen was practically filled before John John Florence’s epoch on film even began? The masses still came!

Because View from the Blue Moon was the greatest surf film ever made! Or so they said. And those saying this before viewing the film based their loaded statement on a few factors. First, the two mesmerizing trailers for the film that would star John John and 14 other surfers (like Filipe Toledo, Eli Olsen, Bruce Irons and the Florence brothers) traveling to 5 different destinations worldwide.

Next, the entire soundtrack, which Jack Johnson personally wrote a new ode for, was rumored to be equivalent to the melodies of the Greek Sirens.

Plus, the statistics behind the production were unfathomable. John John and director Blake Vincent Kueny partnered with Brainfarm, an award winning studio best known for its production of the Art of Flight. For View from a Blue Moon, the production team ran through 6 helicopters, numerous RED cameras, an army of drones and over 2,000 hours of editing for the 59 minute film.

Don’t forget that this film was to be released on the same night -

November 11 - at 7 separate locations worldwide, including Japan, Australia, South Africa, France, and the North Shore.

Thus, the best ever claim did have logical merit. Now that the premiere is over and the smoke has cleared, what is the verdict? Was it truly the greatest film in the history of surf cinematography?

Scenes individually and collectively certainly made a case: the visual aesthetic looked second to none. Like, Planet Earth status. From the opening scenes of baby John John to location undisclosed barrels and even a roaring lion in a South African jungle, everything appeared so crisp and so real and so did John John himself!

His blonde curls nearly bouncing out of the screen, John John pulled air after air after air after air on slab-like waves that most of us laymen wouldn’t think to paddle into. He made the impossible look not only possible, but easy! And fun!

While the majority of surf films in recent memory have focused on the surfers and the waves and few other things, View from the Blue Moon made a priority of capturing the sights and sounds that surround the world’s most notorious breaks. Like Brazil’s heavily populated favelas.

Or the vast and deserted landscapes that fill the horizon in West Oz. Even Oahu, from the mountains to the sea.

And the Pipeline scenes! During each air, turn or barrel the entire Sunset Beach Elementary crowd at the showing - hundreds strong cheered and bellowed accent-laden calls of excitement. The energy!

It was as if the most exciting final in the history of the Pipeline Masters had descended in front of the people. The crowd roared and buzzed like the masses must have done in the Roman Coliseum as John John

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Tom Servais

NEWS & EVENTS /

and company escaped the foamy grasp of these blue water monsters.

So does all of this make View from the Blue Moon the best film ever?

While I have my personal opinions and critiques on the film, like a lack of an in-depth storyline and profile that would help us understand and more so relate to John John better, the long term implications seem much more important than playing Monday Morning Quarterback.

Like fine wine, Blake Vincent Kueny and John John Florence are growing older (both are in their early 20s) and therefore growing better in their respective niches. Thus, we have to believe that something along the same magnitude will come from this duo again.

But this notion doesn’t just apply to them. Proof is now in the pudding that surf cinematography can reach incredible heights and create booming hype, even to the mainstream.

Either future surf productions will view the film as a competition, yet another challenge to best. And helicopter angles, RED cameras and sky high budgets will become part of the norm. Or View from the Blue Moon will cast a long, undefeatable shadow over productions that are to come.

Was it the greatest surf film of all time to date? Obviously subjective, but with the variables added together my vote is yes. Though I hope it doesn’t reign forever as the best, and I do wish future films would take Muhammad Ali-like swings at it, trying to knock the masterpiece off the mantle. Because if there’s one thing that Andy and Kelly taught us, it’s that competition and its blood, sweat and tears chisels the best out of everyone.

My two sense? For any filmmakers looking to get an upper hand on the next best thing to hit surf cinematography, I suggest following View from the Blue Moon’s narration formula. The production team hired Hollywood’s John C. Reilly (known for his roles in Step Brothers and Talladega Nights, among others), and the actor was seen mingling at the showing’s Surfer Bar after-party.

Personally, I can think of a laundry list of female actors in Hollywood that have great voices, would find our beloved sport of surfing interesting and would enjoy Chris Cote-dj’ed after-parties in Hawaii.

How about starting with Emma Stone?

Miah Klein

NEWS & EVENTS /

WAVE OF THE WINTER LAUNCH PARTY On Thursday, November 12, the Surfer Bar at Turtle Bay hosted the Wave of the Winter Launch Party, the much-acclaimed Winter-long contest powered by Surfline. On display at the crowded venue were the checks that will be given out to surfers and videographers who ride and capture the best waves on hand this season, something that judges Gerry Lopez, Pancho Sullivan, Ross Williams and Shawn Briley will decide.

“You can’t really argue with any results from that judging panel,” says John John Florence.

“O’Neill’s involvement in the Wave of the Winter is primarily to support the surfers who want to do the most extraordinary things and reward them for their performances,” says Garth Tarlow of O’Neill marketing. “The breakthrough performer will be any person 19 years or younger who gets the most radical on the North Shore. It could be a single ride or a series of rides, but it will be given to the guy pushing it the hardest.”

Up for grabs is a $25,000 grand prize, with another $5,000 given to the videographer capturing the moments worthy of being deemed as a wave of the winter. Clif Bar is also sponsoring a $10,000 prize for a surfer with an Overall Performance. The company is also making a $10,000 charitable donation to a North Shore focused environmentally oriented charity on the surfer’s behalf.

It’s something where the bar is raised every winter,” says past winner Jamie O’Brien. “People talk about it. Before it was the Wave of the Winter people just did it. And to win...that would be a dream.”

NEWS & EVENTS / Keoki

WADE CARMICHAEL WINS FIRST GEM OF VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING There’s a handful of pros you’d expect to be the early leader of the Vans Triple Crown points race post the 2015 Hawaiian Pro. Like Filipe Toledo!

That high flying 20-year-old with dazzling hazel eyes threatening to become the second crowned Brazilian World Champion. Or defending World Champion Gabriel Medina, looking so fierce and so powerful and so unstoppable during recent freesurfs at Ehukai Beach Park. Australia’s Julian Wilson, who has faced both Great White sharks and bombing Pipeline and has returned to the sand unscathed in both scenarios, comes to mind as well.

But none of these international surfers fit the bill as the current Triple Crown point’s leader (as of late November).

Instead, that much acclaimed designation lies with Wade Carmichael. All eyes - from the aforementioned competitors to the focal lenses of photographers spread across rainy Haleiwa Beach Park from November 18-21 - were locked on the young Australian with long hair, a full beard and beaming smile as he held the 2015 Hawaiian Pro trophy high on the results podium.

“I don’t even know what to say,” said Carmichael after posting a final winning 15.40. “I thought everyone got scores in the end and I couldn’t believe all the boys on the beach, I was just freaking out.”

And rightfully so! The bevy of points catapulted the 23-year-old from 59th to 13th on the WSL’s QS rankings, and also as the current leader for the VTC points race. With a strong showing in the Vans World Cup of Surfing - the second contest in the vaunted Triple Crown of Surfing - Carmichael has a mouthwatering opportunity to qualify for the one and only 2016 WSL Samsung Galaxy Championship Tour.

At the outset of the Hawaiian Pro, the talk throughout Haleiwa’s bustling streets wasn’t that

Heff

It wasn’t just a rabbit that the 23-year-old pulled out of his black top hat; also revealing itself was a crown of flowers, a $40,000 check and 10,000 rating points. His name is now etched into surfing lore, following the likes of past winners such as Sebastian Zietz, Taj Burrow and Andy Irons.

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of Carmichael. And wasn’t that of hometown favorites, either. Instead, all attention was focused on the lack of swell during an El Nino winter.

For 6 days, the prestigious contests’ doors stood chained and locked as an international field of competitors filled the freesurf lineups at Rockies, Off the Wall and Ehukai Beach Park.

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Keoki

NEWS & EVENTS /

quarters and semis, looking to be in champion form. Hawaiian Zeke Lau followed suit throughout the final heats by showcasing his wide ranging arsenal, from a lofty air game to stoic power carves, and also in the mix during the closing of the contest was Maui’s Dusty Payne.

All of whom would meet Carmichael in the final on the fourth day of competition.

A double overhead surf filling in on the 7th day of the waiting period gave the contest a green light, and in the four days of competition that followed, storyline after storyline formed with heat winners and later dissolved as the respective athletes bowed out. One constant was Carmichael, who quietly slipped through heat after heat with little fanfare.

Which made sport betting such a difficult task! Should money be placed on the sizzling Brazilian just in reach of the World Title? Or Lau, the powerful Hawaiian on the QS with a cold yet determined poker face? Perhaps the safest bet is on the defending Hawaiian Pro champion in Payne? What about this Carmichael fella?

The soon to be Hawaiian Pro Champion continued his run into the final day, though much of the spotlight was burning bright elsewhere.

It was lighting up Filipe Toledo, who was spinning his way through the

With all bets made final, the opening minutes proved to be an air to air dogfight. Payne opened with an above the lip maneuver, rolling out a 5.83 and Lau fired back with an air that turned out to be a 7.27.

Keoki Keoki

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NEWS & EVENTS /

“Beginning of the heat had a lot of waves, so maybe I lost my cool a little bit and went on some waves I shouldn’t have,” said Lau. “Wade got the better of the exchanges so things kind of went his way.”

And Wade’s way was that of an everyman! Carmichael, exhibiting a blue collar nature, looked to be the antithesis of flash and flair and simply chose the best waves with casual yet fierce carves and turns.

A rumor ebbed throughout the beach that if Carmichael continued sending so much spray towards the beach, the WSL would need to designate a splash zone at future contests so that onlookers wouldn’t be supersoaked.

A patient Toledo answered his Hawaiian and Australian counterparts with a 9.50, landing a full rotation - the highest score of the day. He looked calm, confident and within reach of the win.

But then he couldn’t find a backup score.

“The last ten minutes was completely flat, I was like, ‘Oh my God, I just need one wave,’” said Toledo. “And that middle wave came, and I couldn’t do anything better than a 5.30.”

The horn sounded to end the first gem in the 2015 Triple Crown, with Carmichael victorious. A chair up the beach ensued, followed by an awards ceremony that will be burned into the Australian’s memory for the years to come. He’ll also remember the comments said by clamoring beachgoers as he headed towards the damp parking lot. On how inspiring his run was! The everyman, who values hard work and relishes in opportunities, taking down the hometown heroes and the international sensations! A 21st century David, with not one, not two, but three Goliaths still reeling from defeat!

“The year has been tough,” said Carmichael. “I started off well at Trestles with my third but I haven’t had much since then. But I feel like with this win here I’ll hopefully get a little roll at Sunset. I’m just stoked.”

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NEWS & EVENTS /

Sammy Morretino

Jason Lewi

IBA HAWAII TOUR: MILLERS’ SURF BIG ISLAND CHALLENGE The IBA Hawaii Tour brought its third stop of the 2015 season to the neighboring Big Island for two days of action packed riding.

With the original venue of Banyans in Kailua Kona seeing minimal swell, organizers quickly shifted the Miller’s Surf Big Island Challenge across the island to the East Side river mouth location of Honoli’i, where 4-5 foot waves, and a whole lot of rain, blessed the competitors. While the constant downpours may have made it difficult for beachgoers on land to stay dry, the passing showers kept the conditions glassy and pristine as the event held its 6 usual divisions over the two consecutive days of November 19th and 20th.

The river mouth setup of Honoli’i provides numerous peaks along a rocky cove but the premiere breaking waves come off the lefthand point and that is where the bulk of the heats were run. Unlike the many shorter reef slab breaks that the IBA Hawaii Tour usually competes at, this wave allowed for multiple combos and a variety of sections for the competitors to mix it up, creating a nice change to the usual quick hit short ride approach.

“It was pretty firing, you know I wasn’t expecting that coming here,” said IBA Hawaii regular Sammy Morretino. “A lot of people were telling me the wave wasn’t that good and I got here and it was completely firing.

So, pretty stoked!”

deep behind the section, and powered through a hollow barrel before punching through and comboed it up with a smooth rollo, to take over the lead and eventually the win.

Sammy went on to place in three division finals, finishing with impressive wins in the Drop Knee and Stand Up but ran out of steam for the final heat of the day with the Men’s Pro division.

The Masters division also showcased a mixed bag of riding from some legends of the sport.

The six man final featured both prone and drop knee riding but it was the DK approach that ruled with Jimmy Hutaff and David Kelly taking 2nd and 1st respectively.

The Juniors lucked into some of the best waves of the event with their final and all of the finalists traded great rides. But the true battle took place between Oahu’s Kawika Kamai and Kauai’s Tanner McDaniel. Starting off early with long medium sized barrel for a high score of 9.5, Kawika put pressure on the rest of the finalists. But Tanner used this as motivation to keep pushing to overcome his rival.

The much anticipated Men’s Pro final saw the return to winning form of 9 time World Champion Mike Stewart. Winning every one of his heats en route to the final, Stewart was right at home comboing the left hand mixing up tubes, rolls, spins and ARS maneuvers on his home island. More than proving he still has the skills to compete, the 52-year-old shared an inspiration message to the younger competitors.

“Once he got that [score], I was like ‘ok, that’s what the judges want, that’s what I’m going to do’, and then I got two good ones and I was stoked!” said Tanner, who was able to quickly lock into a good sized set wave, taking off

“It’s super amazing to have this next generation of guys just shredding and it's good to see the sport in such good hands,” he said. “Hopefully it’s kind of a window into

NEWS & EVENTS /

Blaine Andrews

Men’s Pro Finalists

the future, if you live a healthy lifestyle and pay attention to your body and eat good, live a clean life, you guys can go far. Physically you can keep going if you put your mind to it and work towards it. The ceiling is still to be determined, I thought it was 22 and I guess its 52 so far and so, I’m still going!”

The next and last stop of the Kellogg's IBA Hawaii Tour will hit the West Side of Oahu in December where all the points will be tallied and the overall tour champions will be decided. For more information visit www.ibahawaiitour.com.

FULL RESULTS: MENS PRO: 1st Mike Stewart 16.5 pts.

2nd David Phillips 13.56 pts.

3rd Sammy Morretino 11.84 pts.

4th Mack Crilley 7.5 pts.

JUNIOR: 1st Tanner McDaniel 17.07 pts.

2nd Kawika Kamai 16.33 pts.

3rd Peyton Oda 12.73 pts.

4th Bryce Hollis 8.67 pts DROP KNEE: 1st Sammy Morretino 16.5 pts.

2nd Cole Hansen 14.6 pts.

3rd Dayton Wago 14.13 pts.

4th Kaleo Huddy 13.26 pts.

MASTERS: 1st David Kelly 15.74 pts.

2nd Jimmy Hutaff 15.33 pts.

3rd Ben Severson 13.33 pts.

4th Keith Sasaki 11.77 pts.

5th Pat Caldwell 10 pts.

6th Harvest Burns 6.17 pts.

STAND UP: 1st Sammy Morretino 14.67 pts.

2nd Rob Keyser 8.16 pts.

3rd Mack Crilley 7.34 pts.

4th Landon Gaspar 6.84 pts.

WOMENS: 1st Daynara Tabil 12.5 pts.

2nd Mahina Gerrity 5.5 pts.

3rd Tiffany Yamaguchi 3.43 pts.

NEWS & EVENTS /

THE SURF FIRST AID APP OFFERS LIFE SAVING INFORMATION It's a beautiful day, the waves are perfect, everything is going swell, until the unthinkable happens. Are you ready to act when put in a first responder emergency situation? These things always seem to happen when you least expect it and a little knowledge can go a long way in saving someone’s life.

That’s where the Surf First Aid App comes in. While this openly states that it is not a substitution for expert medical attention, the knowledge and resources it provides can make the difference in a first responder emergency situation.

What this app does provide is basic background and principles of First Aid including a Primary Survey list to determine the condition of the victim. Providing step by step guides complete with illustrations, the app serves to prepare you to be a ready first responder and provides a handful of quizzes to test yourself on the information provided on CPR, trauma & wounds, drowning, and more. On top of the quizzes, the app includes an emergency situation algorithm to run through giving prompts and steps to follow for different situations and conditions. Furthermore, the app also includes a list of emergency numbers for a multitude of countries that a traveling surfer might find himself in.

This app is ultimately designed to ‘Keep the Surfer Healthy and Safe’.

With the information to learn about first aid and test yourself as well as quick access to emergency phone numbers worldwide, this is worth downloading to any surfer’s smartphone. Once again, while not a replacement for professional medical help, this knowledge is the perfect base for anyone who finds themselves in the unfortunate vicinity of a ocean related emergency. The creators of this app, the Global Surf Alliance (GSA) and Surfing Medicine International (SMI), are all about sharing knowledge for the benefit of all. So check out the Surf First Aid App and be ready to make a difference.

NEWS & EVENTS /

ERIC ARAKAWA OFFERING BOARD STORAGE FOR TRAVELING SURFERS While there’s a handful of stresses that can frustrate the experience of air travel to Oahu for the winter season, one frustration seems to stand at the apex that stops excitement dead in its tracks: baggage fees.

Did I just hear an amen?

A narrative well in motion, surfers are undoubtedly the athletes on the front lines of this costly proxy battle that sees high prices for a service that in the end is also a risk.

John John Florence, was that earlier amen from you?

Which is why Hawaii’s own Eric Arakawa wants to help. The shaper who needs little introduction but deserves one anyway - a North Shore resident with 41 years of experience shaping for the average Joe’s as well as recent World Champions and the man behind the internationally known Eric Arakawa Designs - began offering a solution.

“I recently had to take a 4’10” surfboard to Japan and it cost me $200,” Eric says. “It was tiny... like a snowboard box. So many people aren’t traveling with boards. Now, they buy boards here and don’t take them back. So you can leave your boards here at our [North Shore] shop, and you can rent space monthly or for the year. The storage rental is $18 monthly, or $180 annually with a $50 credit that can be applied to one custom board.”

So what tipped the scales for Eric to offer this service for globetrotting surfers? Was he himself burned to embers by consistent baggage fee overcharges like on his visit to Japan? Or was John John’s recent social media bomb directed at JetBlue - because the 22-year-old had paid over $500 in baggage fees yet received a mangled board bag with pieces of board inside in return - enough reason to start?

“We’ve been doing it for about a year now,” Eric continues. “We’re just trying to provide a service for our customers. It’s become such an issue, these baggage charges have gone up so high that it just makes sense. We have a safe and secure place to store boards where you can come get it anytime.”

Mike Latronic

NEWS & EVENTS /

INVITEES ANNOUNCED FOR THE QUIKSILVER IN MEMORY OF EDDIE AIKAU

By Dan House

No other event in surfing has as much prestige or mana as the annual Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau held at Waimea Bay. Being one of the chosen few to be invited to the event, or even placed on the alternate list, is one of the most meaningful things for any of the surfers involved.

Recently the invitee list was released with the names of some of the most influential and hard charging surfers from Hawaii and around the globe.

The waiting period for the event will begin on December 1, 2015, and go through February 29, 2016. The event will only run if the waves are 20-foot or above on the Hawaiian scale, which translates to 40 foot wave faces. The contest has only been run eight times in the 31 history of the event. However, hopes are high that the event will run this year as a strong El Nino has developed and has the potential to deliver very large surf to the North Shore this winter.

THE QUIKSILVER IN MEMORY OF EDDIE AIKAU INVITEES Aaron Gold

Kala Alexander

Takayuki Wakita

Kai Lenny

Albee Layer

Kelly Slater

Mason Ho (Aikau Pick)

Kahea Hart

Bruce Irons

Kohl Christensen

Danilo Couto,

Nathan Florence

Clyde Aikau

Makua Rothman

Mark Matthews

Damien Hobgood

Dave Wassel

Mark Healey

Koa Rothman

Kalani Chapman

Garrett McNamara

Nathan Fletcher

Ben Wilkinson

Ryan Hipwood

Grant Baker

Noah Johnson

Jamie Sterling

Danny Fuller

Greg Long

Peter Mel

Billy Kemper

Nic Lamb

Ian Walsh

Ramon Navarro

Shawn Dollar

Anthony Tashnick

Jamie Mitchell

Reef McIntosh,

Carlos Burle

Rusty Long

Jamie O’Brien

Ross Clarke-Jones

Kealii Mamala

Derek Dunfee

Jeremy Flores

Shane Dorian

Gabriel Villaran

Brock Little

John John Florence

Sunny Garcia

Michael Ho

Rock

NEWS & EVENTS /

OFFICIAL ALTERNATES (IN SEEDING ORDER):

Mason Ho (Aikau Pick) Danilo Couto, Mark Matthews Koa Rothman Ben Wilkinson Jamie Sterling Billy Kemper Shawn Dollar Carlos Burle Kealii Mamala Gabriel Villaran Michael Ho Kai Lenny Kahea Hart Nathan Florence Damien Hobgood Kalani Chapman Ryan Hipwood Danny Fuller Nic Lamb Anthony Tashnick Rusty Long Derek Dunfee Brock Little

Fabio Diaz

NEWS & EVENTS /

INAUGURAL SUCCESS AT WAIMEA VALLEY'S FREESURF FEST On Halloween Eve, Waimea Valley was alive with costumed keiki, surf industry enthusiasts, professional athletes and North Shore residents for the first ever Freesurf Fest, presented by Kona Brewing and Pakaloha. Put together by Freesurf Magazine and Waimea Valley, the surf-inspired event is free to all and takes place every third Friday of the month.

The kick off Freesurf Fest in October featured Volcom's new film "Psychic Migrations" plus a fashion show by Pakaloha Bikinis, a costume contest, prize giveaways and more. Live music filled the valley as visitors moseyed through sponsored booths, which included Medical Spa, the Brazilian Showroom, 9th Wave Gallery and Mahiku.

Ron Artis II and Thunderstorm rocked guests by day while Tevana put on a one-man musical show by night. Food trucks lined the grass, providing guests with an array of delicious, local grind options, including Ke Nui Kitchen, Sandy's Sandwiches, Old World Pizza and Over the Rainbow.

Friday, November 20 saw another successful Freesurf Fest, this time featuring Surfing Magazine’s “Spinning at the Speed of Now”, a film showcasing Brazilian Filipe Toledo. The event also showcased a Kona Brewing Beer garden, along with live entertainment by the Beschen family and a bikini fashion show courtesy of the Brazilian Showroom.

Be sure to mark your calendars for December 18 and all third Fridays onward for this monthly Waimea Valley Freesurf Fest. A fun community event that mixes surf, music, shopping, entertainment, food and drink, this is a free party that you simply can't miss this winter season!

Cholo’s

Homestyle Mexican Restaurant & Margarita Bar Finn McGill

Photo: Heff/Freesurf

Open Everyday 9:30 am-9:30 pm Happy Hour: 4-6 pm M-F – Food & Drink Specials – North Shore Marketplace Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712

637-3059 www.CHOLOS.mx

Authentic Mexican Favorites Island Fresh Fish Tacos Refreshing Margaritas CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

Food & Festivities in Historic Haleiwa Town

Muchos Mahalos to all our loyal customers for your patronage!

Chris Latronic

FREESURF, BIKEFACTORY AND VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING PRESENT PEDAL POWER

By Lauren Rolland Calling all keiki! Freesurf has teamed up with BIKEFACTORY and Vans Triple Crown of Surfing once again this surf season to inspire kids, parents and friends to ride their bikes to school. Want to win Vans Triple Crown swag? Tees, hats, stickers, wax and snacks? How about a brand new cruiser bike? We're giving all of this and more away for free!

All you have to do is ride your bike to school this season and you'll automatically be entered in a weekly prize giveaway and one grand prize.

Our 7-week campaign focuses on reducing traffic along the North Shore and encouraging a safe, happy and healthy winter through a more active lifestyle. Since we all know that tourism brings traffic to the North Shore during the big wave season, Freesurf is doing our small part to make a small difference, and ultimately make the North Shore neighborhood a better place to be.

The schools participating in Pedal Power this year include Sunset Elementary, Waialua Elementary, and Laie Elementary. If you're interested in learning more, reach out to your admin/office personnel or contact info@freesurfmagazine.com. Each school has their own way of collecting names of students for the raffles and announcing prizes, so be sure you know who to speak to at your own school, and thanks for participating in Pedal Power!

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13TH ANNUAL JOHN KELLY AWARDS On Saturday, November 14th, over 275 people crowded the pavilion at Waimea Valley to take part in the 13th annual John Kelly Environmental Achievement Awards, presented by the Surfrider Foundation Oahu Chapter.

“The John Kelly Awards recognize those who are doing the most for the environment in the community while also honoring the greatest environmental stewards of Hawaii,” says Stuart Coleman, the Hawaiian Islands Manager of the Surfrider Foundation.

A total of three awards are presented each year at the prestigious event: a Lifetime Achievement award, which was first given to John Kelly for his vital role in protecting Hawai‘i’s coastlines from overdevelopment.

Other than Kelly, past winners include Randy Rarick, Yvon Chouinard, and George Downing.

A second award is given to a Hawai’i based company for its environmental contributions, and a third award is placed in the hands of a professional surfer for using his or her platform to voice environmental causes. Past winners of the surfing award include the Malloy brothers, Kelly Slater, Kyle Thiermann and Pancho Sullivan.

Nainoa Thompson, the Master Navigator and President of the Polynesian Voyaging Society was awarded with the acclaimed Lifetime Achievement award at this year’s Waimea Valley event. Heather Brown Art was presented with the Hawai’i based company award for her artistic vision that inspires a deeper commitment to preserving Hawai‘i’s sacred places, and Ramon Navarro saw his name added to the list of professional surfing winners for his work in protecting the coastline of Chile.

Other than the awards ceremony, the event also included an auction that featured one-of-a-kind surfboards provided by Surfboard Factory Outlet and painted by artists Colleen Wilcox and Eduardo Bolioli. All proceeds benefitted Surfrider’s O‘ahu Chapter and their efforts to preserve our coastlines and sacred places.

M

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A Photographic Ode To Hawaii’s Beloved Lensman Jeff “Mana” Walthall The passing of Mana left a deep void in the Hawai’i surf and surf photography community. Loyal brother and friend to so many, Mana’s perpetually positive nature, coupled with his talent to capture the beauty of Hawaii, radiated the Aloha spirit throughout the island chain and beyond. The following portfolio is bittersweet, and only a fraction of his deep well of stunning images, but hopes to share his lasting legacy, his vision of Hawai’i, and offers a peek at the great impact he had on the people he shared it with.

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Tai Vandyke “Mana was the coolest guy from day one. Always down to shoot all the boys in and out of the water, always hooked you up with your photos without asking for anything in return, and was a good friend and a guy that everybody loved. I am so thankful for all that he has done to help promote all the underground surfers from Hawaii, and his name says it all. Thank you for everything Mana! You will be missed.�

Tai Vandyke

The Boys

Hoku Peneke “Mana was the working man’s man. Always looking to shoot the Hawaiians that were up and coming, or the locals at their local spots. Mana liked to take pictures of the boys no matter what island they were from.

And not just recently; He’s been in the mix for at least 25 years capturing the waves, the women, the parties, the special events and everything that happens in and around this Hawaiian lifestyle.

Mana was selfless when it came to stoking out his friends, too. Giving shots away for free just because it was a good shot, knowing it would make the person super stoked. I experienced this quality of Mana personally: To this day, if you come to my house you’ll see a 7 wave sequence of me on a 10 foot longboard that used to be broken in half but it was put back together.

I was at Pipe pulling into a glassy blue perfect barrel. Mana got the shot, gifted it to me and now it’s proudly displayed in my living room. In this surfing world, I’m an unknown. I didn’t have any sponsors or logos on my board to be exploited. I’m just a 250 pound Hawaiian waiter and father of three and nobody knows me on a broken duck tape 10 foot longboard getting pitted at Pipe. But Mana - being my bruddah turned his lens my way.

In short, Mana lived his life behind the lens amongst his many friends and there are so many of them. He was such a gentleman around the ladies, always ready for the next adventure and always humble, never playing the dirty bird and being a good friend first.

Mana was also a historian of sorts, chronicling the rise of so many legends from all the islands, and all the shores of Oahu. Especially the West side. Mana had the access to these spots because he knew when and where to be and who to be with.

Through his love for his life, his lifestyle, his friends, with the portraits and pictures, he left behind his legacy. I hope the photos will allow so many people to see the world through his eyes and get a glimpse of his talents and vision of what his friends and family already know about him: That was he was amazing. And he will be greatly missed. “

Hoptong Smith

jamie O’Brien

Buffalo Keaulana

Jamie O’Brien “Mana was always cool, happy, smiling, passionate, an all around good guy who just happened to be a great photographer as well. I’m going to miss paddling out and seeing him in the lineup. Whether he was on the beach or shooting at the Volcom house, he was a familiar face that we’re going to miss dearly.”

David Kuwata

David Kuwata I will always remember the way my cousin lived his life was with Aloha! He was always into helping others, whether it was from giving people photos or taking them on the adventure of their lives, and he always gave from the heart and never expected anything in return. It’s an example of the true meaning of the aloha spirit. He was always down to support the local people and promote underground talent in anyway he could, and he lived a life most people dream of.

He passed on to the next life in a storybook fashion, surfing with his friends at his favorite beach and riding a perfect wave. He left us way too soon, but I have to smile when I think of the way he went out: like a hero, looking good, no pain and doing what he loved with the people he loved. You can’t ask for anything better.

We lost a historian of surfing and an ambassador of aloha! Words cannot describe how much he will be missed, and until we meet again, aloha.

Zeke Lau

Zeke Lau “Mana was someone just full of the Hawaiian spirit. Every time I saw him, it was nothing but big smiles. He did everything with aloha and you could see that in his photos.�

Rusty Keaulana

“Mana was one of the only guys that was there from the beginning of my longboarding career, all the way to my third world title.

I could always count on him being there when for anything! One of the most solid dependable guys I know.. He will be missed!�

- Rusty Keaulana

Nelson Ahina

As a lasting tribute, a forthcoming website called ManaphotoHawaii. com will showcase Mana’s photography work for sale, with proceeds going towards the Jeffrey “Mana” Walthall Foundation, a non-profit organization that will aim to ‘Feel the Mana’ by giving back to underprivalge children through ocean activites across the Hawaiiain Islands.

Mahalo

Andy Irons

F O R

T H E

R E C O R D

Ta lking story w ith s e v e n o f s u rfi n g ’s mo s t in t e r e s t in g c h a r a c t e r s Heff

Interviews by Chris Latronic Photos by Tony Heff

IAN WALSH ON BIG WAVE SURFING

When did you make the transition into big wave surfing? I never had a transition, a specific day where I said ‘now I’m going to surf big waves’. It comes naturally for most kids that grow up in Hawaii.

There’s such a good variety of surf here for anything you want to do to progress or push yourself. It’s also being a product of your environment. From big waves to small waves, you start by sitting on shoulder scared. On bigger days, it creeps up on you and all of a sudden you want to be out there on biggest days.

How do you keep calm during a long hold down at notorious big wave locations like Jaws? It’s more about feeling what’s going on and asking yourself ‘does this wave feel a lot more violent than you’re used to’? And ‘how good was the breath you got? Did you get the wind knocked out of you’? It’s about getting to the surface and nothing else. For me, it all goes back to slowing everything down and trying to absorb what’s going on and what it feels like. And at the end of the day, it’s simple: get to the surface.

Has your mental preparedness from big wave surfing helped you in the contest arena? It can work both ways, especially when the waves are bigger. You have to have a good understanding of where and when to be there. The biggest thing I take away from heats is that it’s easy to get worked up and anxious, nervous with adrenaline and oversurf the wave. In big waves it's similar: there’s butterflies, your stomach is churching and the horizon is standing up and your head is telling you to paddle to the shoulder but to stay there and ride it takes focus and patience. You have to slow everything down, and in heats it’s easy to bog a first turn because you’re psyched. So you have to slow everything down and focus on first turn itself and fall into a rhythm. It’s the same with big waves.

In regards to surfers you’ve looked up to, we’re guessing one of them is a fellow big wave surfer? When I was young, the main one was Shane Dorian. And Andy Irons, both because of their overall versatility and the way they could jump from surfing the Eddie one day to small Haleiwa the next day and then surf well at Pipeline the following day. It’s incredible, and is something I was always drawn to as a kid: their ability to jump into any kind of surf at the highest level, whether that was big days or small days.

How do you balance both big wave surfing and contest surfing?

It’s a lot of balls in the air at one time. It’s challenging on my body more than anything, because it’s a stress of do I be here or there.

I want to compete and I want to surf really big waves, so I figure out a way to do both. My family and those around me have helped consolidate a lot of my sporadic thoughts and my schedule so that I can get to the right places at the right times.

Do you have aspirations for the Big Wave World Tour? I’ve been so busy chasing swells...I love watching it when those events run. That’s a bit of a challenge because if the waves are really big at the contest they’re big at other locations too. It’s ‘do I want to go compete there or do I try and find somewhere new or find a new wave’? I just want to ride big waves whether it’s in a heat or not. I want to go out and paddle into a really big wave. It's what I work for all winter long: to put myself in a position to try and have a sniff of one of those big waves. If I don’t get a wave or if I don’t feel it, then I don’t get it but I want to at least know that I put in the work if that wave does come. We’ve yet to see Jaws with a paddle event. I don’t know how it’s going to shake out, but whatever it is I’m going to be ready.

Heff

KEANU ASING ON THE UNDERDOG MENTALITY

Let’s wind back the clock and look at your 2015 rookie year. Do you have any resounding impressions from what you’ve experienced on the road? Looking back on one year ago, it’s crazy. Obviously everyone thinks they know what they're doing, but for my first year on tour it was such an eye opener. I learned so much in one year than I felt like I did in 4 whole years of high school, just mentally maturing. It was challenging, but nothing is easy. The feeling of working on a new challenges is really refreshing. Things that are hard are almost cool because everyone likes things that are easy. But I think easy is boring, bland and has no taste. I love the challenge and competitions have put me in my place and humbled in my own ways.

What’s your mindset when training and competing? What’s your motivation? There was a lot of people telling me I’m not good enough, that I don’t do airs or do this and a combination of things that I can’t do and if you tell me i can’t do something,

I’m obviously going to try and do it to my best. I don’t feel like I got things too easy and that I’ve worked for what I have. I’ve made sacrifices in my short career so far.

I’m doing anything to help move forward.

As long as it's helping me move forward, I’ll jump on it. Going through the hard yards and struggling... if it helps in the long run I’ll do it. The challenge is that you got to work hard. When I see people that work hard, they deserve everything they get and they always move forward. And I’m so small, people are so in love with the big people on tour.

Everyone’s tall or has good style like Jordy [Smith] or Owen [Wright] and everyone wants to be like them. I’m blessed with being small and I have to live with it. People definitely overlook me and I just prove to them it’s not about how big or tall you are, it’s all about heart. And everything this year and that I’ve gone through, nothing has been given. I had to work extra hard for what I got.

Any specific challenges that you faced throughout your rookie year? My first event, I got smoked in my first heat and I told myself that I have to embrace this moment because it’s a long year and I can’t be over it already. I have to keep moving forward and either I keep losing or I figure out the formula and I beat the best guys. I went into the year thinking there’s a possibility I will get 25th in every event and if I do that, I might as well surf my heart out and not worry about results. I didn’t think I’d be in the position to re-qualify, I didn’t think it would happen like it has. Every event was such a different kind of competition and it’s a different way of competing. Every heat you paddle out you have to limit your mistakes. That’s where these guys capitalize. I had a heat with [Kelly] Slater and I picked the wrong wave, did a bad turn and thought...these guys know.

At the 2015 Oi Rio Pro, you bested Gabriel Medina even though he had home field advantage. What was your mindset going into that heat? And what was that like? You can’t safety surf and every time I have safety surfed, I lost. Before the heat with Gabriel [Medina] I was listening to music and people were screaming, chanting his name and I thought ‘wow this is crazy, this is Mike Tyson fighting anybody else’! It’s the biggest odds, these guys didn’t doubt their guy. He was going to win. For me, it was a moment of letting go of feelings and worry and of results and if my board works good and just do what I do. I got a chance, and an opportunity to beat the reigning world champ. It was now or never. I just went out and seized the opportunity and rose to the occasion. I landed the biggest air I’ve ever done in a contest. The crowd wasn’t too happy about it. And of course it was an upset, because every person I beat is an upset this year (laughs). Being on his home turf, it was crazy because he’s the best in the world and if I didn’t believe in myself and put the jersey on and to think I couldn't beat him, I’m in the wrong sport and I shouldn’t be doing this. I had to believe in myself and you got to go out and do everything you can to stop him. #Heartoverheight

Interview by Bryan Altman What was the experience like to shoot View from a Blue Moon?

Shooting the whole thing was pretty natural until you have a helicopter hovering like 10 feet right above you. The hardest thing is waves are good when they’re good. It’s not like, ‘oh, it’s good, let’s wait an hour and it’s still going to be good.’ So the biggest thing we learned is we can’t be getting this huge crew of guys together and have it take 45 minutes for everyone to get ready to film. If it’s good now we’ve got to go now, got to be ready. By the end of the movie, we knew exactly when we wanted to shoot, how we wanted to shoot it, and so we had the least amount of people doing it and got the best stuff out of it.

Was the film entirely scripted, or did the script follow your activities on the road? That was a cool thing about filming View From A Blue Moon, we’re all doing the same thing we’ve been doing since we were little kids, just surfing and hanging out on the beach and we’re just doing it in different places and on a bigger scale. But at the same time we’re still having just as much fun doing it and we love to do it and that’s our life, just doing what we love to do.

You’ve had a large hand in the production of the film. Have you always been keen on film and photography? Photography was something my mom inspired. She was pretty into it when we were young and she went to school for it and she was always shooting photos when we were on the road.

Then I kind of just, when I was like 16, I started taking pictures just for fun. Then I got more and more into it and got more and more cameras.

I really like to shoot film now, and I have a whole little dark room in my house I use for developing and

all kinds of stuff right now. On tour we get to go to these really cool places so I’ll always try to get out and get some photos in. The way surfing works is you don’t just run three days and then you’re done, sometimes you’re there for the full two weeks for a tournament. So we have so many off days where we get to do so much stuff in places like France, South Africa, Tahiti, and Fiji, you go to these amazing places and to be able to just go out and take photos is just an amazing thing to do.

The film has been likened to the Art of Flight, a notorious snowboarding movie. Has that comparison set well with you? The movie itself is a bit different than Art Of Flight but we worked with Brain Farm who produced it, so it’s going to be similar in terms of being real cinematic, but we have a narrative thing to ours. Hopefully it does have a similar impact on surfing, Art Of Flight had a huge impact on the world inside and outside of snowboarding, so hopefully this does that too. If it doesn’t though, I still got to do all the things I wanted to do with it.

With the premiere now over, what’s it like to look back on the entire process, from the production to the showing? For me, I’m looking at all the footage and it’s like, something that I liked three months ago, I’m like, wait, do I still like that? You know, because I’ve seen it so many times. I get more of a thrill when I show my friends or someone and to see their reaction to it, that’s what kind of excites me now rather than my excitement towards it. I accomplished what I wanted to accomplish with the movie, because going on these trips and surfing with my friends and using all this awesome camera gear was really what I wanted to do.

Rock

JOHN JOHN FLORENCE ON PRODUCING VIEW FROM THE BLUE MOON

As of early November, the World Title is still up for grabs and you’re within reach of claiming it. How does that feel? To see my name at the last event of the year have a chance to win the world title...for me it’s such an honor and also everything I’ve been waiting for. It’s the biggest opportunity I’ve had in my whole life and hopefully I can take full advantage of it. My beginning was so hard and so humble and being a professional surfer was already a dream. I was able to take my family outside of the poor areas to put them in a nice spot and be comfortable. For me, surfing is everything. Through surfing, I can see the country, family and friends, beautiful waves.

Surfing has provided everything I could want and now to be a contender for the World Title is more than I can imagine. I’ve been working so hard for this and the day has finally arrived.

Are there big decisions that you look back on that have helped get you to where you are today? When I moved to California, I was searching for a new experience. I learned to speak better english and I want to be different than all the other Brazilians on tour. When you move, you see a different reality of surfing and the community around it and I learned that more than when I was in Brazil. In Brazil, surfing was so small. The history of surfing was only 30 years old while there’s so much history [in places like California]. Then when I come to Hawaii to spend 4 months here, I learn to respect to be one of the guys. I’m happy to have made the move in the past and now have all of that with me.

You watched fellow Brazilian Gabriel Medina take home his and Brazil’s first world title. Was that a bittersweet feeling? To be honest, half of me is happy and the other part isn’t. Because I wished very much to be first. But after Gabriel won the title he showed me how to get there. He just said Adriano that’s the way. And it was fun to watch but it was also a tough experience, not being able to be there and miss all those good things. I was sad for that, but in Brazil the whole country was freaking out! It was pretty good to see how high surfing in my country went. I told myself that I was going to work even harder to get to where I am today, so I’m happy to be here.

What has it been like to watch as the Brazilian Storm grow? I’m so happy to be part of Brazilian storm. It grew so fast, much faster than most people thought. We have a world champion and Italo Ferraro just showed up and this year Filipe Toledo won 3 events. I think we have some of the best moments in surfing and the country has support us so much. For the last 30 years, we’ve gotten punches in the face and now we’ve grown and are learning from those punches.

Heff

ADRIANO DE SOUZA ON THE 2015 TITLE RACE

WORLD TOUR ROOKIE SUCCESS STORIES AND STRATEGIES WITH TATIANA WESTONTATIANA WEBB WESTON-WEBB ON TOUR LIFE Now that your rookie tour is coming to a close, let’s look back at your qualification and how it all started. Ever since nationals, the dream to be on tour was there. I knew I wanted to be professional surfer, and a lot of people had doubt that I would make it as fast as I did. The first year I won the ISA [International Surfing Association], I had started competing on the WQS [World Qualifying Series]. I got into 3 or 4 events, finished runner up and the next year I had the opportunity to do injury replacement at 2 or 3 events. That was a great experience because I learned a lot. I got a taste of what I’d be doing for the next year. So I stepped up my goal and re-qualified that year. It came down to the nitty gritty in Brazil, competing with Alessa Quizon for that 6th spot. I qualified, now I’m on tour and it’s been amazing.

What are some of the resounding lessons you’ve learned during heats on Tour this year? At Snapper, I got a really good result - 3rd. I lost to Stephanie Gilmore. At that point I could have gone further but I was starstruck when I had to compete against her. It was almost as if it wasn’t reality, like it was alway a dream…competing against someone I idolized my whole life. So I didn’t have my game face on and after that event I needed to learn to compete against the people that have inspired me my whole life instead of just surfing with them. Going into the next few events did ok….for me a lot of it has to do with mind practitioning and after that loss to Stephanie I drilled it into my head that [the Tour] is not fun and games. It’s a job. You’re not competing with them. You’re competing against them. You can’t be starstruck. You have to be a professional and that was a wake up call. You have to be competitive and strive for the best even if you’re competing against those that inspire you. I’ve been taking everything in like a sponge from each event and learning from my mistakes.

What challenges come to mind when you think about your year thus far? Being comfortable with what I'm doing 100% of the time. That’s something you have to have down is being comfortable and knowing what’s going on. It’s so hard to be prepared with lay days and to figure out what to do with off days. And also what not to do. It’s challenging to hold yourself back when the waves are firing. Mental preparation been challenging as well. I’ve done really well with it, but I’m still learning so much because there’s always things to improve on. That’s another challenge: realizing you’ve done some things well but there’s so much room for improvements. You can’t stop working towards your goal.

You’re 19, and facing far older veterans of the sport. How has confidence played a role in your success? That was one of the biggest things I learned was to have confidence going up against your competitors because if you have a lack of confidence that will bring you surfing down. You need to do your best against surfers like Carissa and Stephanie. For me having so much confidence going against people like that, it makes a difference and it makes me surf better. I learned that going into a heat I needed to know what you’re going to do and how you’re going to beat them. Also be confident in your decisions. If you have to adapt to something that’s not working, you adapt and that’s the way you win your heats. You have to dumb it down. If you don’t it gets too complicated. That’s the funny thing. It’s simple: you need 2 good waves with 3 good waves on them. If you dumb it down, it’s easier.

Sloane / WSL

MATT WILKINSON ON THE NORTH SHORE

What’s it like living in a team house for weeks at a time on the North Shore? I love hanging out with people. I’m one the kind of person that hates being alone, so staying in big house with friends is awesome. Everyone that’s here, I’ve grown up surfing with and traveling with. We have a lot of fun and we’re really close. Some people like their private time, but we all have rooms so you can get away from it if you want to. It’s good fun.

After the contest everyone drinks beers on the balcony. Up here every 10 seconds you stand up and say ‘aw’ there’s a sick one! See the waves enough and you end up going out surfing whether you planned to or not. [Living in a team house] is good for your surfing, it’s also you’re doing everything you normally do but you have this entertainment out the front.

It’s cool watching people getting barreled or throwing big airs while you’re making breakfast. The boys at the other houses...

Oakley, RVCA, you walk along the front of the fences and see what everyone’s doing, walk over for a coffee. Everyone’s good friends. It’s a cool vibe around here.

Do you still see localism reigning in the water here on the North Shore? You just need to respect the locals, there’s always a strong vibe from the guy’s. I’ve been coming here for 12 to 15 years. I know most of the guys, they’re all pretty good but you don’t mess with them. It’s definitely intense.

Sometimes there’s nowhere else to go [to surf]... wherever we go out it’s along this stretch and there’s always locals out. You have to be careful to not do anything wrong.

Where’s your favorite place to surf here?

Favorite break is Chacos, the left. There’s always thousands of people out the front here [referencing Pipeline], so it’s good fun to sneak off there. When you’re out here you feel like you’re working. There’s always video and photographers when you’re here competing. There’s so much hype and it’s good to get away from it.

Does the sound of Pipe ever wake you up, since you live so close to it? You wake up in the night when the swells picking up. It’s kind of scary, the whole house shakes if it comes

on the next day. It’s exciting when the swell comes up.

Does Pipeline still make you nervous? The thing I’m most scared of is getting a bad wipeout and coming up and being right in the spot when the next wave is about to land on you if it’s a big thick monster and you’re on a shallow reef. I don’t get too worried about deep water waves like Sunset and Waimea.

As long as you can hold your breath for a little bit, you’re pretty much fine. But out on reefs like Pipe, I feel like you’re going to get thrown into the reef. It scares me to hit my head or get torn up on the reef... I’m bad around rocks, and that’s a bad thing for a pro surfer.

I find a way to get my face onto the rocks all the time...

Heff

MASON HO ON COMPETITION AND LEGACY

Do you think about continuing the legacy that your father Michael and Uncle Derek created? I don’t think about it too much. I try and keep it out of my head. I do know it’s there and my Dad and Uncle Derek did so much for surfing and Hawaii and that’s why I feel like I should give surfing my all. The whole legacy..that’s their deal. I’m trying to swim up the stream. I want to win all these North Shore events.. I’ll answer that question another time better maybe. I have a lot of dreams about legacy... but i know nothing about it.

surf speed and took a couple waves, saw an outside set at Backyards so I started running out there. I didn’t even have to paddle to get on the wave. It was the sickest dream... I was running all over the place and even went out to Phantoms. I had my little board and popped on a couple waves. In the dream, my friend was filming all these waves and when I woke up I was asking him about the clips but I couldn’t get them! I had so many barrels and combos. I asked him ‘Are you sure you don’t have the clips from those waves’?

We’ll bite. What are these dreams you’re having? I do dream of legacy... and when I do dream, I immediately know because something is off. Recently, I was dreaming that V-Land was right next to Sunset. Like they were literally connected. In the dream, this guy was chasing me. But then I couldn’t find the guy and I saw whitewater in the distance so I started walking and started running on the water towards this connected V-Land and Sunset spot...I couldn’t believe I was walking on the water and then I put my board down and instantly I was going normal

Much, if not all of legacy is in competition so let’s delve into that for a moment. The upset you had over Julian Wilson as a wildcard in Portugal...how did that feel? I got on Rip Curl halfway through this year doing wildcards, and there’s less pressure. I’m sure there’s pressure to make everyone happy but at the same time I don’t feel that pressure.

It’s just fun going in there and comping with the best guys. And when you’re wildcarding, you never know who you’re up against. A lot of people read the ratings and know who their coming up against. Before my heat I was asking Julian - we’re good friends - and I was

asking him what I should do in the water...I knew what I was going to do but I like to ask everyone else, you know? So he was helping me out and the next day we’re in the same heat. He was going for a world title and I was trying to make a heat. He would have done the same to me. The guy is the best in the world in my eyes.

How differently do you approach freesurfs and competitions? I’ve been doing events since I was a kid, and I think I’ve tried going freesurf mode in competitions and lost at crucial times. And if I would have turned on the competition mode a little more instead... and in contests you don’t get another chance.

If you want to do good at competing, you have turn on the full comp mode and focus even when you’re not in the heat to get ready. And if your favorite spot in the world is going off, it just so happens that your dad doesn't want you to surf the spot because it’s dangerous...but the CT is one of my goals.

When you’re there you can put both free surfing and competitions surfing together more. With the QS, I’ve been trying to qualify and the get the formula.

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John John Florence. Photo: Keoki

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Joel Centeio. Photo: Heff

Seth Moniz. Photo: Brent Bielmann

Anthony Walsh. Photo: Keoki

Koa Smith. Photo: Tony Heff

ENVIRONMENT /

THE MAKINGS OF SHARK HYSTERIA

By Dan House

The term “shark attack” has a way instilling emotion, fear, and confusion like few other terms can. Nowadays we have access to information and news like at no other time in history. When a horrific or unfortunate event happens, such as a shark attack, we know about it almost instantaneously. In September Braxton Rocha was bit by a shark off the Kohala coast on the Big Island. As Braxton was being loaded into an ambulance he uploaded a video of himself to Facebook and Instagram. The emotional and graphic video went viral on social media with reposts and comments from around the globe. Media quickly picked up the video and posted it through their outlets as well. Following Braxton’s attack a string of other shark attacks took place in the islands and the media circulated those stories widely. Shark hysteria spread like an out of control wildfire. People speculated as to why sharks were suddenly biting people, some began to avoid the water all together, and others began to buy shark repellent devices.

The origins of such great fear and misunderstanding towards sharks attacking people originates from long ago. In the 18th century the Swedish naturalist, Car Linnaeus, developed a system known as binomial nomenclature for naming, ranking and classifying organisms. The same system that classifies humans as Homo sapiens. In 1758 Linnaeus gave Great White Sharks’ their scientific name, Carcharodon carcharias, and in his description he noted that “it strikes,” has teeth of armor, and accused the beast of eating the prophet Jonah. Linnaeus description was the genesis of a social change where the much of the world would wrongly come to know sharks as wanton killers of man.

The following century brought about a new wave of scientists

and writers who further projected the notion of sharks being man eaters. Thomas Pennant’s 1812 volume of British Zoology noted sharks “greediness after human flesh.” American writer, Samuel Goodrich, in 1845, wrote that sharks are the “dread of mankind in seas where it is found.” Sir Samuel Baker, a famous British big game hunter and explorer, led expeditions through Asia and Africa and later concluded that sharks could acquire a taste for human flesh. In Baker’s 1855 novel, Eight Years’ Wanderings in Ceylon, he wrote: “Bathing is the great enjoyment, but the pleasure in such a country is destroyed by the knowledge that sharks are looking out for you in the sea, . . . thus man is nothing more than live bait.” Baker continues with his account of witnessing a shark bite a 15 year old boy in half, at the waist, while bathing. On August 8th, 1899, three boys were bitten by sharks in Port Said, Egypt. Dr. William Bryce treated the boys and wrote of the attacks in the British Medical Journal: “many people have expressed the opinion that it must be one shark which bit all three boys, and I think that is very likely.” Even in Hawaii, the word niuhi translates to man eater and is generally used in association with tiger sharks. The word is also used in native songs. While accounts of shark attacks in nineteenth century media and literature may be somewhat anecdotal, they still helped to incorrectly create and perpetuate the idea that humans are very much the menu of sharks.

Sharks garnered more attention as man eaters in the early twentieth century following a string of attacks in New Jersey and Australia.

However, a true global shark consciousness began to emerge during World War II when worried moms sent hundreds of thousands of their sons to deploy across the pacific. Wounded serviceman and airmen repeatedly found themselves in shark infested waters with

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many deaths being attributed to sharks as the war progressed. One of the more significant events of man vs. shark happened just after midnight on July 30, 1945. A Japanese submarine torpedoed the U.S.S. Indianapolis, killing hundreds and sinking the ship in just twelve minutes. Nearly 900 men were left to drift at sea and hundreds more men perished from dehydration and heat. Horrifyingly, sharks fed on the men for days, killing another estimated 60-80 sailors. Of the original 1,196 man crew, only 317 survivors would be pulled from the water five days after the initial attack. It was worst maritime disaster in U.S. Naval history and helped to catalyze a movement for shark research by the Office of Naval Research and other groups.

Demonization of sharks was complete with the release of bestselling novel and blockbuster movie Jaws in 1974 and 1775. Jaws taught the world to fear boat stalking, and serial killing rogue sharks. The film perpetuated myths that all attacks were equal, sharks sought human prey, and that going into the ocean meant you were at serious risk of being eaten by malicious bloodthirsty sharks. Following the film’s release the world saw increases in anti-shark policies, shark derbies, shark culling programs, and the instillation of many beach nets. In addition, shark hunts, similar to the one depicted in the film, took place following shark bites in Egypt, Russia, the Seychelles, Mexico, Reunion Island, and Western Australia The insidious effect of the Jaws has even influenced present day government policy, despite firm scientific research clearly showing sharks are not targeting humans as prey. This year Carl Neff, of the University of Sydney, published a paper titled “The Jaws Effect” in

the Australian Journal of Political Science. Neff cites cases in Western Australia where policies have been enacted promoting the killing of sharks for no justifiable reason and that “policy discourse was more closely aligned to movie mythology than evidence-based science.”

Post Jaws the media and entertainment industries have given sharks and attacks increased attention. Sharks move the needle in news and generate more entertainment income than any other terrestrial or aquatic animal. Adjusted for inflation Jaws is the seventh highest grossing film of all time and the 25 plus years of shark week has generated hundreds of millions of dollars in advertising income for the Discovery Channel. More often than not, the media and entertainment perpetuate the idea of sharks as villains in a shark vs. man struggle for survival. Rather than shark-human interactions being non malicious random acts of nature.

The internet has improved the ability to discover and investigate shark attacks, further thrusting shark hysteria into the general consciousness.

People have access to information quickly and effortlessly via email, search engines, smart phones, and texting. Social media is also a major influence, at times inaccurately increasing our perception of the frequency and intentionality of shark attacks. Today the public may perceive a massive uptick in shark attacks as they are inundated with news of them from across the globe.

Nevertheless, the question remains as to why more people being bitten by sharks? Consensus amongst researchers is that shark bites on humans have increased in number simply due to more people

ENVIRONMENT /

swimming and spearfishing, all of which have been around for some time, but the numbers of people involved in these activities have likely increased, plus there may also have been changes in how far offshore people venture. Add to this the emergence and growth of stand-up paddle boarding, kayak fishing and kite surfing, all of which have resulted in shark interactions.”

Some of Meyer’s research, as reported on by Honolulu Civil Beat, suggests that sharks have been behaving in the same way around Hawaii for eons and that there is no evidence that tiger shark food is being limited by fishing activities. While sharks may be behaving in the same way humans certainly have not. A booming recreation industry in Hawaii has brought massive amounts of people into the ocean. Especially on Maui, where the majority of Hawaii’s shark attacks have taken place in recent years and where very favorable tiger shark habitat exists.

Another caveat mentioned in another of Meyer’s papers states that 67% of Hawaii shark bites occur during the middle of the day when water recreation is at its peak. Once again driving home the point that more humans in the water increases the likelihood of a human-shark interaction. Rather than savage beasts exhibiting an affinity for humans flesh.

being in the ocean. Not because barbarous sharks view humans as a source of viable prey. Following World War II people found themselves recreating in the ocean more frequently in response to better transportation, shorting working hours and more leisure time. Most importantly a rapidly increasing global population from the 1960s to present day brought even more people to the oceans. Activities like swimming, snorkeling, surfing, scuba diving, and kayaking have also gained popularity. Thus more and more people have been going in the ocean, increasing the likelihood of a shark-human interaction.

The International Shark Attack File (ISAF) has documented more than 3400 shark attacks dating back to the 1500s. The ISAF is owned by the Smithsonian Institution and is housed at the Florida Museum of Natural History. It is the definitive global database on shark attacks. Their data show a very obvious correlation between an upward trend in both human population growth and shark bites from 1900 to present. George H. Burgess, curator of the ISAF, states on their website: “The numerical growth in shark interactions does not necessarily mean there is an increase in the rate of shark attacks; rather, it most likely reflects the ever-increasing amount of time spent in the sea by humans, which increases the opportunities for interaction between the two affected parties.” ISAF data shows another correlation exists with increased beach attendance yielding a greater number of lifeguard rescues and shark attacks in the US from 19942000. Further illustrating the point that the number of shark attacks in a given year is greatly influenced by the amount of people in the ocean.

Hawaii is no different from other regions of the world such as Australia, Japan, New Zealand, Florida, and California. All of these regions mirror the global trend of increased population yielding more shark attacks. Dr. Carl Meyer, University of Hawaii marine biologist, has completed numerous studies on sharks in the Hawaiian Islands and said “The dominant activities in shark bite stats are surfing, snorkeling,

There has been a spike in shark bites in October and November though. Hawaiian oral traditions recognize as much, linking the fall with a higher risk of being bitten by a shark. In recent decades almost one third of attacks in Hawaii have happened in the fall, but it’s important to recognize attacks take place year round. A rough hypothesis for the fall spike is that energy depleted pregnant and postpartum females are feeding more during pupping season.

Furthermore, a tracking study found that one quarter of mature female tiger sharks migrate from the North West Hawaiian Islands to the Main Hawaiian Islands during the fall pupping season, increasing the numbers of large sharks in local waters. These factors may partially explain the fall spike.

Some critics point to shark cage diving as a reason for increased attacks locally and globally. The scientific literature paints a very different picture. Researchers, Ryan Johnson and Alison Kock, authored a 2006 study on South Africa’s White Shark cage-diving industry for the World Wildlife Fund. They found evidence that it is “highly unlikely” that cage-diving is linked to attacks on humans. The authors calculated sharks’ similarity in perception of other human activities to shark cage diving. Then approximated the probability of eliciting the same observed response of great whites at cage diving boats. They approximated that it was highly improbably for scuba diving (4%) and swimming (8%). Improbable for board riders (21%), kayakers (25%), and spear fisher man (37%).

Dr. Meyer studied shark cage diving operations in Haleiwa, Hawaii, during the mid-2000s. He found that most of the sharks encountered during the tours, sandbar and Galapagos sharks, are rarely responsible for biting humans. Additionally Meyer stated in his 2009 paper that shark cage diving would have “Negligible impact on public safety.” This is due to the diving spots being in remote locations, “conditioning stimuli that are specific to the tour operations and different from inshore recreational stimuli,” and there hasn’t been an increase in shark attacks on the North Shore of Oahu since cage diving operations have begun. These findings are persuasive evidence that

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ENVIRONMENT /

shark diving operations are not resulting in more shark attacks.

Often too much emphasis is put on year-to-year fluctuations in the number of shark attacks. The ISAF suggest that these fluctuations are dependent on “local economic, social, meteorological, and oceanographic conditions.” Long term trends are much more telling as to what factors may be at play with the human-shark interactions.

The good news is that the likelihood of being attacked is staggeringly low. According to the ISAF, your chance of being attacked is one in 11.5 million. Shark fatalities have also been on considerable decline over the past century. This is in part to improvements in medical treatment, ocean safety measures, and people being more educated and cautious to avoid dangerous areas where sharks are more prevalent. The trend is especially true in developed nations like the U.S. There certainly is a risk associated when entering the ocean, the pelagic wilderness, and the sharks’ domain. The perceived risk of being attacked can be entirely over blown as seen in historical and current accounts by the media, entertainment industry, and other literature.

The notion that sharks are man-eaters is wrong and goes against scientific consensus. Furthermore, researchers point to an enormous influx of ocean users as being the reason that more shark bites have occurred over time. Unfortunately, as human population increases and more people enter the ocean it is likely there will be additional shark attacks. Our ability to connect with each other globally through the internet and social media will bring these tragic events to our fingertips with lightning speed. Hopefully future events will be portrayed more accurately and not be used as an opportunity to instill fear in the public. Fear drives out logical thinking, empiricism, and compassion.

Fear mongering about sharks will only lead to more groundless shark hysteria. Let’s face it, sharks are the ones who should woe humans as we rapidly alter their environment and their global populations dwindle in response to our foolish actions. pau

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GROM REPORT

LUKE HEFLIN

By Cash Lambert

Luke Heflin has a secret. And it doesn’t matter how frequently you ask or how you pose the question, either way the 12-year-old will remain tight lipped about the whereabouts of his Secret Surf Spot.

The only hints the San Clemente native provides is that to get there, it “requires 4 wheel drive”, is “north of Kona” and is “a super fun, super private shallow spot with some parts that are sketchy.” Another detail: the Kona transplant’s pre-surf song of choice while venturing to this phantom break is Alan Jackson’s ‘That’s Where I Belong’, which swoons: Where the sky meets the water/Where the wind is my song/Where the sun is my brother/That’s where I belong. But the information stops cold there. Luke won’t even divulge the needed swell direction because that “could give it away.”

What isn’t a secret across the Big Island is Luke’s surfing prowess, put on display at places like Banyans (and his Secret Spot): dropping from the sky with no rail grab. Hunting clean sections for blasting carves.

Speeding up wedging ramps. Pretending that the razor sharp reef below is nothing but a bed of pillows.

Also contributing to his local lore, other than the visual aesthetic, is a stamp of approval earned from big wave and waterman icon Shane Dorian. “At a recent Keiki Classic, he told me I was charging and that I did really good,” Luke says, sounding as though his brain is moving too fast for his mouth to keep up. “He posted a picture on his Instagram of me on a wave. That made my day!”

While we could ask Shane to pull the exact location of Secret Spot out

of Luke, we decided to let it rest and ask the grom other questions.

Why? As Luke’s popularity continues to grow (he’s currently sponsored

by Mokulele Airlines and More Than Sport), so will his following and it’s only a matter of time until the beach at his beloved Secret Spot is filled with an Instagram-wielding audience.

What’s your first surfing memory?

My dad was pushing me into waves at El Morro when I was 3 years old.

I always wanted to surf...like everyday and it was super fun. My dad fishes for a living, and he also takes me surfing a lot and takes pictures of me.

Favorite surf spot?

My secret surf spot. It requires 4 wheel drive and it’s north of Kona.

It’s super fun, a shallow spot that is super hollow and it doesn’t get crowded at all. It’s super private and there’s some parts that are sketchy. There are lots of rocks, like big ones in the road and you have to drive around them. I look at Surfline and see what the waves are doing and if it’s hitting there I’ll usually go.

Can you give us the swell direction the spot needs?

I can’t give you the swell direction. I think that will give it away.

How do you balance surfing and school?

My parents let me surf when it’s really good before school and when it’s flat I study hard to make sure I get everything done. But I like reading because I like learning from books.

GROM REPORT / dragged across the reef a couple times. Got a couple scratches on me...but it’s all good.

What makes you nervous?

Sometimes I get nervous when I see big waves coming on swell charts. Like big big waves. I want to surf them but I kinda get nervous at the same time.

Favorite pro surfer?

Shane Dorian because he always charges and goes big and pushes his own limits. And Torrey Meister because he rips really hard and is always encouraging me. They both come to the Keiki Classic every year and we talk on Instagram. In the Keiki Classic one year, Shane like really made my day because he said I was charging. It made me feel really good. Shane posted a picture of me on a wave at that Keiki Classic and that made my day too.

Surfing goals?

I want to be a pro surfer. I want to do both freesurf and contest surfing.

I want to try to make it on the World Tour.

What do you think it will take to achieve these goals?

Practice everyday, surf everyday and keep going to what you think you can do.

What are you doing during the North Shore winter?

I just ordered a board recently from Bret boards. I might come over to the North Shore to get it and surf but I’m not sure yet.

How is surfing on the big island different from the North Shore?

Some places on the North Shore have lots of sand. Here it’s all reef.

Who’s your biggest inspiration?

My Dad, because he always wants to do what I do. I really like what he does. He’s a fisherman on the Marlin Magic 2.

If you could surf with one person, who would it be and why?

I would pick my Dad because we like to share waves and do turns around each other. That’s when I have the most fun.

What’s been your worst wipeout?

At Banyans! On a big day I dropped in too deep and did cartwheels down the wave. I got held under forever and got

Hobbies other than surfing?

I like skating and fishing. My dad recently took me out and I caught 2 Blue Marlins. We trolled around the grounds and there were lots of birds... when you see birds it’s a good sign. Then the fish started jumping and I was so stoked.

We smoked the Marlin with our friends. It was delicious!

Instagram name? @lukeheflin What boards are you currently riding?

Bret boards. I’ve been on a 4’ 10” and it depends what kind of day it is. On smaller days I like riding my 4’9” and on big days I’ll ride my 4’10”.

Dream surf trip?

I’d love to go surfing in Tavarua and Bali.

Now we’re going to do rapid fire questions. Here we go: Skateboard or snowboard? Skateboard Leash or no leash? When it’s small waves no leash. Maybe. But I usually prefer leash because of the reef here on the Big Island.

There’s lots of reef over here.

Air or barrel? Barrels. And turns!

Snorkeling or swimming? When I exercise, I like snorkeling and checking out the reef. Just seeing what I surf over.

Burger or Chicken Fingers? Chicken fingers!

Rashguards or Tshirt? I use a long sleeve white rashguard.

Pushups or Situps? Pushups.

Dogs or cats? Dogs.

TV or videogames? TV. Town or country? Country.

Any last words for the Freesurf audience? Do what love! Or something like that.

SHE RIPS

BETTYLOU ‘SAKURA’ JOHNSON

By Cash Lambert Photos: Spencer Suitt “You have to sneak up on it!” Bettylou ‘Sakura’ Johnson tells me while sitting at a table in Ehukai Beach Park, listening to the Pacific fizzing a few yards away. But neither that sound nor the soft rain has caught the 10-year-old’s hazel eyes; instead, she’s focusing on a chicken timidly strutting by.

A slow grin appears underneath her rose colored hat as she blurts out, “I like to chase and catch them!” Which perfectly describes the Haleiwa-native’s short but bright surfing career to date.

In 2012, sweet Sakura appeared at the annual North Shore Menehune Surfing Championships quiet and kind and wanting to have fun. But once the contest jersey slipped on, Sakura snuck up, chased, caught and outscored her (sometimes older) competitors with an explosion of paddle battles and crisp bottom turns and hacks off every clean section she could find.

The 5th grade wahine now has three consecutive first place finishes at Haleiwa’s

annual event, along with a sponsorship from Luli Luli Bikinis and an impressive quiver from Sunset Beach’s Tim Carroll. More important than Sakura’s meaty recipe for success is a humble desire to let her surfing speak for itself, something she’s modeling after her favorite pro surfer (and former World Champion) who also calls Hawaii home. Hey Carissa Moore, did you chase chickens too?

When did you start surfing? I remember surfing the board my [younger] brother is riding right now, catching the whitewash in Haleiwa. (Sakura’s mother - Shinobu Johnson - chimes in because of her daughter’s soft and quiet demeanor)...The first time Sakura surfed was at the Menehune contest in the Kokua division. I pushed her in, and Dad caught her on the inside. She was close to six years old.

She never surfed before that and we decided to give it a try. We still have a picture of that wave.

Sakura, how did you place at the recent North Shore Menehune Surfing Championships in October?

I did my best. And I won! On the day of the final it was a little bit small and we had a

paddle battle for some of the little waves.

It was small and only once in awhile some waves came in. I caught seven waves and I found out I won at the very end of the whole thing. It felt amazing! I wanted to have fun and also win.

What’s your favorite thing about competing?

I love to try and win and I like to see my friends.

Tell us about your quiver.

So far I’m riding a pink board with blue stripes on the end of the board. It’s a 4’8 and I really like that board. When it’s bigger I ride my 4’10” and this year I’ve been riding my 4’8.

They are all from Tim Carroll.

Who’s your favorite surfer and why?

Carissa Moore because when I see her on TV she has powerful turns and she’s very humble.

She smiles a lot, too.

Can you tell us about your worst wipeout?

My worst wipeout was when I went over the falls at V-Land. I was paddling for a wave and I was a little bit too late. I still stood up... and

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SHE RIPS /

I saw the wave was too steep so I jumped off and my board was still stuck. I got sucked all the way down.

What are your surfing goals?

I want to keep surfing and get more sponsors.

Any hobbies outside of surfing?

I like to skate, dirt bike and go to gymnastics.

The biggest wave you’ve ever surfed?

Haleiwa was the biggest last year, I was nervous. It was maybe 6 feet.

What’s your pre-surf meal?

Bananas, yogurt, smoothies, pancakes and an acai bowl.

What about post-surf meal?

Snacks! If I’m thirsty then coconut water, sometimes juice boxes.

Do you have a favorite song to listen to before surfing?

“Sugar”, “Locked Away” or “Riptide”.

What do you like the most about winter on the North Shore?

The waves! The swell comes and also it’s not always as hot. It’s breezy.

Do you have any plans for this winter?

Surf and watch the contests. And charge!

Favorite wave on the North Shore?

Chuns.

Favorite subject in school?

Art or math.

Favorite move on a surfboard?

Tailslide!

Favorite thing to do on the North Shore?

Surf, skate and hang out with my friends. Chasing chickens too! I run around and chase them and try to catch them. It’s fun. pau

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS

December 1

The waiting period for the Eddie Aikau Invitational begins, which goes through February 29. The much anticipated contest is the definition of prestige, and only those that are invited are allowed to compete in the annual big wave event.

December 20

The Billabong Pipe Masters contest window closes, along with the conclusion of the 2016 Men and Women Samsung Galaxy World Title Race.

December 26

December 4

The window for the Target Maui Pro - the final contest of the Women’s Samsung Galaxy Championship Tour - in Honolua Bay, Maui, closes.

Haleiwa International Open begins at the Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park.

January 29 - February 8 The Volcom Pipe Pro runs at Ehukai Beach Park

December 8

Billabong Pipe Masters begins. The contest is the third and final jewel of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and culminating event of the WSL Samsung Galaxy Championship Tour. The Billabong Pipe Masters will run on the four biggest and best days and is held at Ehukai Beach Park, North Shore, Oahu from 8am- 4pm.

February 28

Waiting period ends for the Pea’hi Challenge, a Big Wave Tour event in Haiku, Hawaii.

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INDUSTRY NOTES This year legendary waterman Mel Pu’u will produce the 10th Annual Waterman Championship at Makaha Beach, Hawaii.

The event will also host the SeaHawaii Tandem Surfing World Championship. The invitational event will feature 16 of the world’s best tandem surfing teams. The event will take place on December 5-6th or 12-13th, 2015, depending on the surf conditions. The event has a prize purse of $4,000 and will determine which tandem surfing team is the ITSA, International Tandem Surfing Association World Champion 2015! Other disciplines at the event will be long board surfing, canoe surfing, body surfing, SUP surfing and SUP Squatch surfing.

This event is also a fundraiser for the Na Keike O Kamo’i Canoe Club & Make a Wish Foundation. Entry forms and info available at the BRADAH MEL’S WATERMAN SURFING CHAMPIONSHIP Facebook page.

Greenroom Hawaii is showcasing “Aloha Vol.6” Art Exhibition by Matthew Allen on Friday, December 4th from 7-9PM at Greenroom Waikiki: 2255 Kalakaua Ave. Shop #18 Honolulu, HI (Sheraton Waikiki)

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INDUSTRY NOTES

The 5th Annual Steep and Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge, in loving memory of Sion Milosky, has begun. As with years prior a panel of pipeline specialists and industry professionals will choose the winners. The one photographer who captures the shot and one surfer who gets the steepest and deepest shot at Pipeline or Backdoor will be named the Steep and Deep Winners for the winter season. Winners will receive $2,500, a custom surfboard, framed art piece of the winning image, and a spread in surfing magazine, but more importantly bragging rights for the year! Eligible images will be taken and submitted from November 1, 2015 - February 10, 2016. Absentee registration will be open at the Pipeline Gallery in Haleiwa until Dec 22 or you can email steepanddeeppipeline@ gmail.com Sponsors of the event are: @vanssurf @surfingmagazine @ volcomhawaii_ @scovel_surfboards_kauai @steepanddeeppipeline @freesurfmag #livelikesion Www.LiveLikeSion.Com

Some of last year’s entries

INDUSTRY NOTES Vans athlete and surf pioneer, Nathan Fletcher, celebrates the unveiling of his Vans signature apparel and footwear capsule live from the North Shore during the 2015 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing brings a high-power competition to the fabled North Shore of Oahu with Vans and Fletcher delivering the best product for in and out of the water performance. Taking cues from his Native American heritage, the Vans Nathan Fletcher capsule showcases a tribal inspiration embodied by subtle colors, geometric shapes and emboss details. The Rising Swell Boardshort is made with Sturdy Stretch by Vans, the versatile four-way stretch fabrication that balances in water performance with on land wear-ability. Fletcher brings a distinctive and organic vibe to both the Costa Mesa SF and the Slip Up, two Vans footwear silhouettes that not only deliver style, but comfort with the upgraded UltraCush sockliner. Rounding out the collection is a Vans premium tee with Fletcher’s signature logo on the front pocket. For stores and to shop the Vans Nathan Fletcher Capsule visit http://www. vans.com/surf.

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INDUSTRY In4mation opened their new retail location November 6th in the Ala Moana Center. This is the third location In4mation has opened with their other stores being located at Pearlridge Center and Nuuanu/Chinatown. The retail store offers trendsetting apparel and merchandise from around the globe with alternative design concepts, eclectic lines and products. A few nights prior to the grand opening a ceremonial blessing of the store was conducted amidst the owners and longtime family, friends, and supporters of the store. Check them out at on the street level of the mall between the AT&T and Hilo Hattie stores.

On November 5th Chanel Waikiki held an opening reception for an art gallery titled Contemporary Primitive. Works in the gallery are by artists Danny Fuller, Orion Shepherd, and Kanoa Zimmerman. The event drew an eclectic group of family, friends, and pros to celebrate the art collection. The collection can be viewed on the third floor of Chanel Waikiki.

World Surfing Champion Gabriel Medina signed a new contract with long time sponsor Rip Curl, extending his relationship with the surfing company until 2021. “The most important thing in a relationship like this is that the surfer feels at home. Gabriel is happy here with us.

He’s one of our crew. That makes performing at the top level easier for him,” said Neil Ridgway, Rip Curl’s Marketing Chairman. “Rip Curl really strives to support kids from junior to world champion and Gabriel is a great example of that program. We don’t just go out and throw a lot cash at whoever is hot at the moment, we like to support surfers for the whole ride.”

Photo: Hodgson. Rocky Canon, Pipeline.

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NOTES

Haleiwa’s Pipeline Gallery, which offers a space for photographers to share images collected from decades of chasing swells and athletes around the globe, has a myriad of surf events throughout the winter season on the North Shore. From December 1-7, globally renowned photographer Ted Grambeau will debut an exhibition of his collection “Sea Level”. On Dec. 9, Billabong presents a slideshow of moments in the life of Andy Irons. On Dec. 16, Pipeline Gallery’s premiere photographer Jim Russi will showcase his work, and on Feb. 15, the Steep and Deep Photo Challenge Award ceremony will take place.

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