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BANG! BANG! GUNS BLAZING FOR DA HUI BACKDOOR SHOOTOUT 50TH ANNIVERSARY DUKE KAHANAMOKU INVITATIONAL Mason Ho | Photo: Mike Latronic

W W W. H U R L E Y. C O M

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FREE PARKING

Arguably the most important stretch of sand in surfing and definitely the most photographed, the coastline from ‘Ehukai to Ke Iki is constantly shifting and morphing into the worlds greatest playground for surfers. From 2-3 ft. fun sandbar to 10-15 ft. waves of peril igniting onto shallow reef, surfers like John John Florence know there’s no place they’d rather be than right here. Photo: Tai Vandyke

Heff

COVER STORY /

ALL HAIL THE LEGENDS

By Mike Latronic Timing is everything.

Historically, Da Hui’s Backdoor Shootout has been a great opportunity to film some of the best surfers in the world and some of the best tubes on the planet without jerseys, giving the whole event a feeling of freesurfing. In actuality, their surfing is for big prize money, and with this year being in memorial of the great Duke Kahanamoku, it’s very fitting that the first day happened to be one of the best that Pipe has seen in years.

Mason Ho has always been one of my favorite surfers and possibly one of the nicest humans I know. Within minutes of successfully (and sketchily) negotiating my 8-foot soft top through the horrendous ‘Ehukai shorebreak, Mason grabbed this set wave, which happened to be one of his top scores.

I recall shooting TV priority, I pumped the ISO slightly, and shutter speed was at 1250. The magic of Mason and Canon camera did the rest. Not sure if you can tell by the photo, but shooting from the soft top gave me a higher angle perspective over the other photographers trying to shoot floating directly in the water. In my estimation, it provides a very clean angle to the Banzai Pipeline.

Big congrats to Mason, all hail The Duke, and long live Freesurf.

pau

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TABLE OF C ONT ENT S

D E PA R T ME N T S

10

Free Parking

12 Cover Story 18

Editor’s Note

20

News & Events

36

Catching Up with Julian Wilson

70

Damage Control

72

Community

76

Surf Poll

78

Heavy Water Q&A

82

Surf Art

86

Pau Hana

88

Memorial

92

Shoots

94

Industry Notes

96

Last Look

F E AT U R E S

40

Comeback kid

42

Da Hui Backdoor Shootout

54

Aperture

64

Tati

The rejuvination of Dusty Payne

The smoking gun

Fish in a barrel

Wahine to da max

Models Mahina Alexander and Abi Rae Stein. Photo Dylan Lazo

Latronic

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher / Editor Lauren Rolland Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Editorial Assistant Sean Reilly Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Sean Reilly, Tyler Rock Free Thinkers Tiffany Hervey, Shawn Pila

Senior Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Pete Frieden, Dane Grady, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Bruno Lemos, ManaPhoto, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila, Jim Russi, Spencer Suitt

Contributing Photographers Paulo Barcellos, John Bilderback, Kyle Burnett, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Damea Dorsey, Rick Doyle, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Hodgson, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson, Cole Yamane

Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Office Manager Kiana Ho Account Executive Natasha Briley

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

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Tammy Moniz

EDITOR’S NOTE

Loss & Community Relatively speaking, the surfing community is small. We’re congregated around coastlines, attracted by a unique lifestyle and comfortable in a part of nature that’s unfamiliar to many others.

The United States has approximately 12,500 miles of finite shoreline, whereas the amount of football fields, baseball diamonds, hockey rinks, basketball and tennis courts are infinite. Given the limited coastal space, it makes sense that surfing only speaks to a comparatively small group, which in turn creates the feeling of a tight-knit community. We all know who’s who in the industry – athletes, shapers and media alike – and while it may not be on a personal level for all of us, it sure feels that way.

Because of this camaraderie, when something tragic happens, the entire hui feels it.

By the time you read this, the news of Ricardo dos Santos’ passing will have made its mark around the world. But at this writing, I woke

up to the headline that the young Brazilian surfer was the victim of a senseless tragedy, and although I never personally knew Ricardo, my heart was heavy with compassion. I felt like a piece of my tight-knit community had cracked.

The surfing world lost a great man and will in turn never be the same again, because when we lose a presence such as Ricardo’s, we lose the future of an influence. As part of the surfing community here in Hawai’i, and on behalf of Freesurf, I’d like to send out our condolences to Ricardo’s family and all who knew him well.

No matter what role you play in a community, big or small, your presence is like a ripple across a calm sheet of water. Thanks for contributing to the world of surfing.

- Lauren Rolland Associate Publisher

NEWS & EVENTS /

J Fred riding out one of the world’s gnarliest shorebreak waves.

CATCH SURF CATCH CRACKS KEIKI PRO Photos: Jake Marote The first ever Catch Surf Catch Cracks Keiki Pro contest was held on January 7, 2015 in giant shorebreak at Ke Iki beach. The event featured surfers like Koa Rothman, Jason Frederico, Sean ‘Poopies’ McInerney, Kaikea Elias, Koa Smith, Kalani Chapman, Scott Clelland, Ruben Tehada and Brian Emery.

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NEWS & EVENTS / CATCH SURF CATCH CRACKS KEIKI PRO

JOB about to catch cracks.

The contest saw Jason Frederico take best overall performance and $800 cash for charging the insane waves. With surfers tackling the 4-man heats on 5’2 soft tops by Catch Surf, the guys charged closeout waves and shorebreak pounders, but the Best Wipeout and $200 went to Josh Redman for his painful performance.

Also, congrats to Poopies for winning best race car and $100, and mahalo to Pupukea Grill and Seven Brothers for providing the grinds.

NEWS & EVENTS /

IBA HAWAI’I FINISHES STRONG Photos and Words: Sean Reilly The International Bodyboarding Association (IBA) Hawai’i completed its second annual pro tour last December. The tour consisted of four events, over $10,000 in cash and prizes, and automatic seeds into the coveted 2015 IBA International Pipeline Pro. Maui-bred Jacob Romero took the tour by storm with consistent placing and a win at Kauai’s Shipwrecks. Racking up a total of 2,665 points, Romero ousted 2012 IBA World Champion Dave Hubbard for the 2014 IBA Hawai’i Tour Title.

On December 20 and 21, West Side Oahu’s Kea’au Beach hosted the last stop of the 2014 season. Competitors and spectators alike could not have asked for a better event to conclude the tour. Kea’au Beach provided the pros, juniors, women and drop-kneeers with rippable surf from start to finish.

Day one of the Kea’au Beach Challenge ran both the DK (Drop Knee) and JR divisions. Competitors from both divisions had the opportunity to battle it out in rippable 2 to 3 foot surf. As the tide dropped and swell filled in, the final rounds saw the best conditions of the day. Nail biter after nail biter, each heat seemed to come down to the final seconds.

Kauai native, Sammy Morrentino was easily the day’s top performer.

Surfing a total of 8 heats, dropping the day’s top scores and making back-to-back finals in two different divisions, Morretino secured a JR division Tour Title and a DK event win.

24

NEWS & EVENTS /

50 th Anniversary

Through all the changes in Haleiwa over the years, Surf N Sea thanks you for allowing us to remain your Ocean Sports Headquarters. We’re committed to serving our customers with the same aloha spirit since ‘65!

The following day, Womens and Mens Pro Divisions put on a show. Day two of the Kea’au Beach Challenge featured an extensive list of World Champions and Tour veterans in larger, more consistent surf. Big barrels and mammoth maneuvers were abundant. Living legend and nine-time World Champion Mike Stewart demonstrated his dominance in the early rounds, but fell short in the quarters. Defending IBA Hawai’i Champion Matt Holzman was on point throughout the day, earning himself a spot in the final. But it was 2012 World Champion Jeff Hubbard who was the event’s stand out performer. Hubbard looked unbeatable, toping the podium for the final two stops on tour.

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Results MENS PRO TOUR WINNER Jacob Romero

WOMEN PRO TOUR WINNER Melanie Bartels

MEN PRO FINAL

WOMEN PRO FINAL 1 – Melanie Bartels 2 – Summer Hillen 3 – Ayako Ancheta 4 – Traci Effinger

1 – Jeff Hubbard 2 – Matt Holzman Equal 3 – Guilherme Tamega Equal 3 – JB Hillen JR PRO TOUR WINNER Sammy Morretino JR PRO FINAL 1 – Tanner McDaniel 2 – Sammy Morretino Equal 3 – Peter Piho Equal 3 – Mathew ORourke

DK PRO TOUR WINNER Dayton Wago DK PRO FINAL 1 – Sammy Morretino 2 – Dayton Wago Equal 3 – Blaine Andrews Equal 3 – Bud Miyamoto

HURLEY PRESENTS THE SURF N SEA HALEIWA INTERNATIONAL OPEN Hurley presented the annual Surf N Sea Haleiwa International Open this past December 26, 27 and 28 at Haleiwa in a postChristmas celebration of the event’s longstanding history. Over 150 competitors in 13 different divisions were greeted with nice waves in the 4 to 6 foot range, while event organizers took pride in seeing the amateur surfing event stoke out the aspiring international athletes.

The Haleiwa International Open originally began back in 1969, when Rell Sunn and other local Haleiwa surfers decided to encourage the Aloha Spirit of surfing between the traveling Japanese surfers and the locals. Now, over four decades later, competitors, sponsors and event organizers agree that the HIO is a major success in bringing together the surfing youth.

The Friends of Ali’i Beach help make the event possible, along with Ivy Bloomfield, Kawika Foster, Jason Shibata and Joel Centeio, all who donate their time to making the HIO fun and fruitful each year.

Other companies that support the event are Surf N Sea, Hurley, Matsumoto’s Shave Ice, Vertra, Luibuenos and the JPSA. Congratulations to Keoni Yan from Tahiti, who won the Open Mens title and also took 4th in the Junior Mens. Taking out the boys division and winning the title was Japanese surfer Yuji Waki, and winning the women’s division this year was North Shore’s Moana Jones. Congratulations!

Will H-S

NEWS & EVENTS /

Runner-up Kelia Moniz hangs ten at the GoPro World Longboard Championships.

It has been nearly 25 years since the Great Wall in China has come down. At least in spirit that is…

Harley Ingleby

Will H-S

THE TRIPLE CROWN OF CHINA

With the relatively new sharing of Western culture and thousands of miles of coastline to explore, it is no wonder that we now have to consider the “Triple Crown of China” in this edition of Freesurf.

Three major surfing events complete with points, prize money and some of the best surfer athletes on the planet conglomerated in China, and Freesurf’s interest in the culture and waves was officially piqued.

The history of China reaches back over 4,000 years and has developed a culture that is rich in philosophy and the arts. Chinese have also pioneered inventions such as silk, gunpowder, the compass, the mechanical clock, tea production, porcelain, movable type-printing and paper-making to name a few. Let’s not forget spaghetti, perhaps my favorite.

With the largest population on Earth, China has more than 1.35 billion people. And at this stage in history I could safely say China has the least number of surfers per capita population wise of any 28

Will H-S

For centuries, China was a very mysterious country, but recently opened its doors to Western civilization and the rest of the world - at least a little bit. This great “hidden” nation has quickly emerged as a world power house for industry, technology and money matters, but guess what the bigger news is? There is world-class surfing in China!

Rommell Gonzales

THE TRIPLE CROWN OF CHINA

country I’ve ever been to. Aside from the traveling surfers to these events, you could count the number of Chinese “local surfers” on two hands.

As one of the oldest civilizations on the planet, mankind owes quite a bit to Chinese history and culture. But definitely not surfing. It is relatively brand-new to this power country, and it will be a generation or more before we see a significant change in that statement.

Hainan, China’s only tropical island, is located on the South China Sea and is a central location for surfing in China. Just off the mainland, Hainan boasts over 930 miles of coastline and contains numerous bays and natural harbors. It’s tropical and warm – a distinct difference from the capital city of Beijing to the North.

Rommell Gonzales

Team Peru

Rommell Gonzales

Deivid Silva

Event number one in this Triple Crown feature is the International Surfing Association’s China Cup. China has graciously opened up their doors and supported the top seven placing teams from the ISA’s world surfing games – held earlier in the year in Panama – to this specialty event.

International teams included Costa Rica, Argentina, South Africa, Australia, Japan, Brazil and Peru. 2014 would see the first ever Chinese surf team organized for an internationally competitive event, coached by former world champion surfer and industry media mogul elite, Peter Townend.

Though China finished last up against the world surfing elite, it was a historic beginning. In generations to come, China hopes to improve its status in the surfing circle.

Miguel Tudela

Rommell Gonzales

THE TRIPLE CROWN OF CHINA

With strong performances on both the Men and Women’s side, Peru won the Team Gold Medal and the ISA China Cup Team Trophy. Australia placed a close second, earning the Silver Medal while Brazil won the Bronze Medal and South Africa took the Copper Medal.

In an action-packed final heat, Australia’s Nicholas Squiers won the Men’s Gold Medal with a heat total score of 13.93, defeating Silver Medalist, Peru’s Juninho Urcia (11.57), Bronze Medalist, Peru’s Miguel Tudela (11.03) and Copper Medalist, Argentina’s Mariano Arreyes (10.50).

In a dramatic end to the Women’s Final, Australia’s Jessica Grimwood was in the lead with just a few minutes until the final horn, when Peru’s Miluska Tello earned a 6.17 to move up to first place, allowing Tello to take the win, with a total score of 11.83. In second, earning the Silver Medal, came South Africa’s Tanika Hoffman (9.57), in third, earning the Bronze Medal, Australia’s Jessica Grimwood (9.30) and in fourth, earning the Copper Medal, Costa Rica’s Leilani McGonagle (8.50).

“I’m very happy and satisfied with the success of hosting the third annual ISA China Cup. Despite the waves not being the best, the surfers showed amazing surfing skill and provided a great show,” remarked ISA President Fernando Aguerre. “I’m very excited to see the National Chinese Team competing again soon at an ISA World Championship,” Aguerre continues. “The opportunities for surfing’s development in China are endless.”

Final ISA China Cup Team Rankings:

. . . . . . . .

1- Peru- 13,378 2- Australia- 13,232 3- Brazil- 9,766 4- South Africa- 9,760 5- Argentina- 9,270 6- Costa Rica- 8,910 7- Panama 7,640 8- China 7,140

The second event of this trio was the Hainan Classic, a 4-star ASP world tour qualifier complete with $90,000 in prize money and a slew of surfers from around the world who were there to capitalize on the remote location.

After an action-packed final day at the secondary event site, “Rocky

Miguel Tudela and Deivid Silva

Yuan Long

THE TRIPLE CROWN OF CHINA

Rights,” Brazil’s Deivid Silva was crowned the new champion of the Hainan Classic. The Brazilian defeated Peru’s Miguel Tudela in a highly entertaining grand finale. Despite small conditions on the last day of the competition, Silva was able to choose the right waves to earn the win.

The young and talented Brazilian earned a 9.10 on his opening ride of the Final that helped maintain his lead through the rest of the heat. Half way through the heat, Silva found another good wave, scoring a 6.43 for a total heat score of 15.53 to take the win and the $15,000 check.

Last on a triple play but not least was the GoPro World Longboard Championships, China presented by Wanning (WLC) the perennial longboard surfing championships held at the same location. Well considered an excellent hotdog wave during a swell of three feet and over, the surf break is definitely an epic longboard wave at any size.

Harley Ingleby (AUS) took to the clean left-handers to defeat Phil Rajzman (BRA) to claim his second ASP World Longboard Title at the GoPro World Longboard Championships, China presented by Wanning (WLC). A pumping typhoon swell and offshore winds produced perfectly groomed waves in the 3 to 4 foot range for the world’s best longboarders to battle it out for the title.

Mentioned in an earlier Freesurf issue, Oahu’s beloved Kelia Moniz took second at the event in the near perfect waves, narrowly missing a third win in a row at the annual event. Australia’s Chelsea Williams took home her maiden ASP Women’s World Longboard Title and commented on her friendly rivalry with Kelia: “I’ve wanted to win a World Longboard Title since I found out it existed. For a long time people have been telling me I deserve to win, now I finally believe them. I’m so happy and thankful for the support of my family, friends and sponsors. It was an awesome Final, Kelia (Moniz) is so good, we have a fun rivalry going and I’m glad that I got her back.”

For the first time ever in the ISA’s 50-year history, a Chinese team competed in the ISA China Cup, highlighting the growth of surfing in the country. A groundbreaking moment for the development of surfing in China, this country is well on its way to becoming a contender in the sport.

Craig / A- Frame

JULIAN WILSON CATCHING UP WITH THE 2014 VANS TRIPLE CROWN WINNER

By Tyler Rock Coming into the Hawai’i season ending tour leg, Australian Julian Wilson needed a result.

After a less than stellar year on the World Tour, Julian was on the bubble of requalifying, potentially needing to do it through the WQS events. By the end of the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa, the first stop of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, Julian looked back in form with a dominating performance and runner-up finish behind Dusty Payne.

JULIAN WILSON Frieden

N e w s & E vent s /

S H O W

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BIKINIS, CLOTHES & ACCESSORIES

In the race but not the driver’s seat for the Triple Crown title, Julian kept his head down and surfed his hardest; ultimately taking the title with a clutch must-win finish at the Billabong Pipe Masters.

Freesurf caught up with the first time Triple Crown winner for a few words.

What goals did you have coming into Hawai’i to finish off the tour season?

To be honest I wasn’t planning on doing to entire leg [of the Triple Crown] until about a month before it started, so I figured if I’m in for all three I was going to try my hardest to bring home the Triple Crown.

After the second stop at Sunset Beach, still trailing in the Triple Crown race, what was your mindset going into the Pipe Masters?

Going into Pipe, the Triple Crown was way at the back of my mind. I wanted to get barreled! As it came time for finals I was aware it was all or nothing, and if I won Pipe then I’d win the Triple Crown as well.

Talk about that last winning Backdoor wave. Did you know it could be the score when you were paddling for it and did you feel confident when waiting for the score on the beach?

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When that wave came in I knew it was the perfect backdoor direction and I had to contain my excitement level a little bit.

It actually ended up being a really steep take off and then once I bottom turned I knew I had the 8-something I needed. Then when I saw just the end of Gabriel’s Pipe wave, and it looked a little tight on the exit, I knew I had a pretty good chance of getting the better of our last exchange. It was a very nervous wait on the beach though, that’s for sure haha.

pau

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Sean Reilly

Brent Bielmann

T H E

R E J U V E N A T I O N

of

DUSTY PAYNE

By Tyler Rock

D

espite being one of Hawai’i’s most well-rounded surfers, and the first and only surfer from Maui to qualify for the ASP World Tour, major competitive success has somehow eluded Dusty Payne. With only one previous career win (the 2013 WQS Prime event at Margaret River), Dusty’s most recent run of success has given him the momentum and confidence to go hard in 2015.

The freesurfing aspect of Dusty’s performance has been top-notch, but translating that into the competitive realm hasn’t been quite so easy. The guy has also seen more bumps in the road than most.

to compete in the 6 Star events down there and I chose to stay home and just surf more here on Oahu. What I wanted to do this year was just to maintain my seed for next year and wanted to just get on some good film trips this year and try to build some really good video parts. I went on a couple really fun trips and had a blast. Then I went to a couple of events and didn’t do really good, lost in first or second round, and was kind of frustrated again with competing. Then I went to South Africa and blew my knee out the first day I was there.”

Throughout his four years on tour competing amongst the world’s best from 2010-2013, Dusty has never broken the top 20, often times facing off against top seeds in the early rounds. It was ultimately a sidelining injury that kept Dusty from re qualifying for the World Tour. After a tough run, the 26-year-old decided to take it easy on competition leading into the 2014 season.

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Wyatt Tillotson

THE REJUVENATION OF DUSTY PAYNE

“My year [2014] started out here at home. I surfed the Pipe Pro and made the semis, then everyone went to Australia

THE REJUVENATION OF DUSTY PAYNE Another injury, not what Dusty wanted mid-way through the year. But it’s how you bounce back from setbacks that ultimately builds character and the drive to really do better. Dusty was determined to come back stronger than ever.

“When I injured myself I was like ‘alright, I’ve been injured a bunch, and I don’t want to do that again.’ Sitting out on the side and watching everything happen, it sucks, but for me it was kind of a blessing in disguise. It really made me take a step back and just be grateful for everything that I’m able to do and I’m so blessed to be able to travel around the world and surf the best waves with my friends. Maybe it was the injury that made me realize that and be grateful for the opportunities that I do have. So I worked really hard and continue to work hard to keep myself in shape so I can do this for a long time. I don’t want to do anything else; this is what I want to do.”

After knee surgery, Dusty had a speedy recovery and was back in the water in three weeks. Surfing at about 80%, it wasn’t until coming to Hawai’i that he felt back to full form, comfortable with his body and able to put himself in awkward positions to surf at top performance. Dusty was ready for the Triple Crown.

“My body felt ready, my boards felt great and I just wanted to get two good waves. The events I was going to this year, it was hard to get two good waves. We were going to these beach breaks where you might not even get one good wave. Coming into Hawai’i I saw the swell and knew it was going to be huge and was like, ‘well, here’s your chance to get two good waves in a heat finally!’ That was just my goal, and to go out and have a lot of fun. I felt confident I could keep making heats if I just surfed the way I know I can on those waves. I just went out and had a blast.”

Taking this confidence into the final at the first Triple Crown stop in Haleiwa, Dusty’s come-from-behind win over Julian Wilson was legendary. Steamrolling into the second stop at Sunset Beach, Dusty ripped through heat after heat and into the final once again, nearly taking the win, but getting edged out by Michel Bourez. Come Pipe, Dusty

had a strong points lead for the Triple Crown race, but a round 3 loss to eventual world champ Gabriel Medina left the door open.

With the race now out of his hands, Dusty had to watch as Julian Wilson clawed back to take the win at Pipe and the Triple Crown title.

Nonetheless, Dusty’s strong showing through the first two stops was enough to catapult him into a qualifying spot for the 2015 WSL Championship Tour.

“Next year that’s my goal; just go out and compete. I love contests and competing because when you do get those victories, it’s probably the sweetest feeling in the world. I love freesurfing and just being out in the ocean with friends and enjoying it, that’s what it’s about. But I’ve got that competitive side in me and I love it. I’m looking forward to it, can’t wait.

I’m ready to get back and get on the grind.“ The road back is never easy and Dusty knows this well. But the important thing is keeping perspective and staying positive. Looking forward, the renewed confidence and strong return from injury will hopefully see Dusty find success on the tough top-tier circuit. Dusty has a good head on his shoulders and the talent is obviously there. As one of the few Hawai’i surfers now on tour, we hope for big things from this Maui boy and are confident to say, Dusty’s back! pau

Heff

A

DA HUI

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IN MEMORY OF DUKE KAHANAMOKU

2015 represented a special year for the North Shore of Oahu, as the longstanding Da Hui Backdoor Shootout celebrated the 50th Anniversary of the original Duke Kahanamoku Invitational event at the infamous Pipeline.

Gonzo

The event maintained the Team format that the Shootout has become famous for, but also brought back the prestige of the enigmatic Duke Invitational by inviting Hawai’i’s leading and most respected waterman for the ultimate showcase of diverse surfing prowess at the North Shore’s most legendary wave.

The format called for four surfers per team competing in three nonelimination 30-minute heats, with the best three waves from those three heats determining the overall Top 16.

These top 16 surfers were supposed to compete in two four-man heats, with the top two waves from those two heats counting toward overall placing/results. But lacking quality surf for the last day, the format ultimately changed to award the current standing placings.

Congrats to Mason Ho for putting on a flawless performance that upheld the legendary Ho family legacy. Mason bagged the day’s best lefthander, scoring one of three perfect-10’s in the opening rounds. “It was some of the most pristine conditions at Pipeline since last December,” Mason Ho said of the early rounds. “I remember showing up in the morning and it was a solid

Mason Ho

Heff

eight-foot with perfect winds. And when there’s four guys out, it’s so nice…you can go anywhere you want and take turns.”

Jamie O’Brien came just 0.2 points shy of the win, with Bruce Irons taking a close third. In fact, all of the top three finishers were within less than 0.75 points of each other, and all of them holding three excellent scores in their respective totals. Billy Kemper took 4th, Makua Rothman 5th, and Makai McNamara 6th. All surfers left with a paycheck, plenty of shack time and big smiles.

The Backdoor Shootout is about as grassroots as it gets, with no press releases or official news alerts letting you know if the comp is on. However this year, all the action was broadcast LIVE by the Waterman League across strategic partners in the US, Europe, Australia and Brazil at watermanleague.com.

Bruce Irons

Makai McNamara

Jamie O’Brien

Chris Latronic

Sean Reilly

Sean Reilly

Heff

Da Hui Backdoor Shoot Out Results 1st – Mason Ho $10,000 2nd– Jamie O’Brien $5,000 3rd – Bruce Irons $5,000 4th – Billy Kemper $5,000 5th – Makua Rothman $5,000 6th – Makai McNamara $5,000 SUP - Kealii Mamala $1,000 FREESURF – Jason Frederico $500 LONGBOARD - Bonga Perkins $500 BODYBOARD - Andre Botha $500 BODYSURFING - Melvin Keawe $500

Latronic

Billy Kemper

Makua Rothman

Aperture

Mikala Jones Photo: Pat Stacy

Zeke Lau Photo: Mana

John John Florence Photo: Keoki

Anthony Walsh Photo: Tony Heff

Diego Silva Photo: Sean Reilly

Brent Bielmann

Tatiana Weston-Webb

By Lauren Rolland

In November 2014, at the second to last stop on the ASP Qualifying Series – the Mahalo Surf Eco Festival in Itacare, Bahia, Brazil – one athlete in particular was contending for a game-changer. It’s true that QS points are crucial for all competitors, but for Tatiana Weston-Webb, it was the difference between making a dream come true or watching it slip away from grasp.

Narrowly beating fellow Hawai’i surfer Alessa Quizon in the final by 1.10 points, Tati triumphed at the event and earned herself a well-deserved spot on the coveted tour. Goal accomplished. Dream come true. A priority for any aspiring pro, the WCT is where careers are made, and also where they end.

For Tatiana Weston-Webb, this is just the beginning.

The first stop on the Women’s World Championship Tour is coming up this February 28 – March 11 on the Gold Coast, so Freesurf caught up with Tati before the jet setting and 2015 touring began. We’re happy to hear that the blonde athlete is as grounded as ever and poised to make 2015 a fun first year on the ‘CT. Garnering the sunshine of the Aloha State, Tatiana WestonWebb is glowing with confidence and grace.

How has your winter been so far?

It’s been super fun! I haven’t gotten too many waves on the North Shore of Oahu, but I’ve had some fun sessions at home. Hopefully toward the end of this winter I’ll get a few at Pipe!

Any 2015 resolutions?

Yes, only a few because I feel like I’ve accomplished a lot this past year. They are to make a final in a WCT event, finish top ten, and take more pictures and appreciate more.

Congrats on a successful 2014! Tell us about some of your highlights Thanks! I think my all time best moment in 2014 was qualifying, that was the most surreal experience because I’ve wanted it ever since I was a grom. My second best experience was being able to tow in to Teahupoo while they were filming for Point Break II. My third

best experience was getting to win the GoPro Challenge at CloudBreak. That was so amazing because I got to beat men on the WCT. I never would’ve thought that could happen!

What did you think of the triumphs and victories during the 2014 WCT and the VTCS? Who were you personally rooting for throughout the events?

I thought it was so exciting and fun to watch.

But in the end a few people that I really wanted to qualify didn’t. I wanted my boyfriend Jesse Mendes to qualify but he missed out by a few spots, as well as Torrey Miester. I was really stoked for Keanu Asing because he’s been a good friend for a while now and we’ve been on the Hawai’i Surf Team together and he officially qualified in Hawai’i.

So you and Jesse Mendes are an item…

Yes, Jesse and I are dating. We get along really well and I think we compliment each

other. We’ve been dating since the WQS in Cabo, so it’s about 6 or 7 months now! We’ve known each other for a really long time, but we just grew to like one another. We try to see each other as much as possible, but it’s hard because the WQS events are on pretty different schedules.

What are the pros and cons of dating a professional surfer?

The pros are that you spend so many hours in the water and they are always with you. The cons are that you will go a few months without seeing each other. But it’s worth it in the long run.

Okay, back to you. How are you feeling about your first year on Tour?

Honestly, there are times when I feel so confident and so ready, and then there’s times where I’m thinking about the girls that I’ll go up against and how well they surf and then

Brent Bielmann

Tati

my heart starts to thump. Any thought of competition gives me a bit of an adrenaline rush and I can’t help that!

Which event are you looking forward to most?

I’m really looking forward to Bells, because I’ve already won two international GromSearches there and I feel like I’m very powerful on my backhand.

Who is the woman to beat this year?

Courtney Conlogue or Steph.

In your opinion, what characteristics are crucial to becoming a champion?

Hard work, dedication and focus, but most importantly I think it’s the person that’s having the most fun. I think Steph is a good demonstration of those characteristics.

Your biggest supporters?

My family will always and forever be my biggest supporters. They will be there for me during all my highs and lows, and no matter what I can always count on them.

Brent Bielmann

Tati

Biggest inspiration?

What are your workout regimes?

I look up to a lot of female surfers, past and present. I love watching Steph the most. In reality, I look up to the whole top 17. But I really look up to other athletes that work so hard to reach their goals and make it to the Olympics.

There are too many!

What does a normal day in the life of Tatiana Weston-Webb look like?

I like to switch up my workouts as well as the people I work with. If I’m traveling, then I do my own exercises. If I am on Oahu, I work out with Kahea Hart. If I am at home, it’s either my own routine or I go to Gabby Hamilton’s work out class because it’s a ton of fun and all my friends go!

I wake up, have a coffee, eat a healthy breakfast, and check the surf. Then I either surf or work out depending on the waves. Then eat a healthy lunch, hangout for a little, then try to surf again. Come home, work out if I haven’t already, eat dinner, roll out, stretch a little, then sleep!

Sounds like a healthy lifestyle! What’s your favorite thing to eat?

My guilty pleasures would have to be eating sweets. Ice cream is my weakness. As well as sleeping in. I’m a really big fan of a long slumber.

Yes, I can’t live without healthy food. I love every fruit, mostly every veggie and anything dark colored. I’m anemic; which means my blood is low in Iron, so after every meal I have to take iron pills. But I try to eat foods that are high in iron, like beans, acai, beets and spinach.

I’m also a steak lover!

What are you excited about for this new year?

Any guilty pleasures?

Are you working on any personal projects or hobbies?

I love to take photos, so I’m starting to ScrapBook everywhere I go!

I’m looking forward to traveling everywhere and indulging in new places, cultures and people!

pau

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LIFESTYLE

This month’s ocean insight is brought to you by Freesurf and longtime lifeguard/rescue ski operator, Jeff Okuyama.

Check out the waterman’s craziest jet ski rescue story and new ways to stay safe while surfing the unpredictable waters of Hawai’i.

Tips for surfing a new break.

You definitely want to sit down for a while, study the break, and ask yourself a few questions:

• • • •

Where are my entry and exit points?

Where are the danger areas?

What is the current doing, and how will I get out of it if I get caught in it?

And most importantly, am I able to swim back to shore on my own as a back up plan should my leash break, or if I loose my board.

But one of the best ways to approach a new spot is to go with someone you trust who knows the area in and out, and can answer any questions you might have. Not to mention should anything go wrong you have a buddy to help you.

When should someone call for help from the lifeguard?

Don’t stall just call! Call for help whenever you want, that’s what lifeguards are there for. If you see someone in trouble, call for help. If you feel uncomfortable in the ocean at anytime call for help. Even if you think it might be minor and you might not need help, just call.

Sometimes the littlest things turn out to be biggest. Lifeguards are also trained in other areas besides ocean rescues. In fact a lot of the lifeguards are EMT certified and respond to first aid and medical emergencies on a daily basis.

What should be kept in mind when surfing an unguarded break?

Keep in mind that help might not be available

when you need it. We have mobile responders who are always responding to unguarded beaches. To be safe, always surf at a guarded beach. On the other hand, there are tons of unreal surf spots that are super dangerous, remote and unguarded, so if you do decide to go, never go alone, and know your limits.

How do jet skis best help a rescue situation?

Simple. The jet ski can do rescues much faster.

Just imagine, you have a victim caught in a rip current going out to sea and the surf is 10 feet. If you have a rescue board, you first have to punch through a series of waves, and if you are lucky enough to hang on to the board and get past the impact zone, you now have to bring the victim back to the beach through the pounding surf. The jet ski also makes it much easier to rescue multiple victims. The most

Tyler Rock

With Jeff Okuyama

people I have put on a board on a single rescue was two. On the other hand, I was once able to put four people and a dog on the ski.

Will more regions in Hawai’i see the addition of a rescue ski or is it only essential in high surf areas like the North Shore?

I sure hope so. As the beach population rises in Hawai’i each year, it only makes sense to have more beaches with lifeguards, and more mobile lifeguards with jet skis. The jet ski is equally as valuable in flat water as it is in high surf.

What’s your craziest rescue story?

New Year’s Eve 2013. Solid 20ft+ swell out of the northwest, and the only surfable spots were Waimea Bay and the outer reefs. I was on the ski doing a patrol at Waimea when the guys at the Pipeline tower called and said to step on it because they had a guy stuck at Insanities taking cracks. When Tony and I got there we couldn’t see a thing because it was nothing but whitewater. The guards at Rock Piles had a visual on him and said over the radio to come straight in (we were between second and third reef Pipe).

Every thing happened so quickly, and all I remember was driving full throttle straight in not knowing where the guy was, when Tony said, “there he is, turn right!” All I saw was a little black speck barely above water and a hand

waving. We get to him, get him on the sled and start turning back out when we find ourselves cavitating and going up a solid sucking dry 15-footer. I thought for sure we were going over backwards and getting slammed silly, but somehow we punched through the lip and went vertical out the back. The force of the landing blasted me off the ski, and by doing so shut off the ski because I had the kill switch attached to my wrist. I scrambled back on, got the kill switch in, and barely got out of there before the next one landed on us. It’s been a couple years since then and I still get chicken skin thinking how lucky we got.

COMMUNITY /

ISLAND EARTH A CYRUS SUTTON DOCUMENTARY Words By Shawn Pila Photos By Cyrus Sutton

Sunshine and soothing trade winds combine for year-round comfy weather conditions in Hawai’i; mild temperatures, openhearted rainfall, welcoming sea breezes and colorful rainbows. Weather-wise, Hawai’i surely rates a 10.

But with perfect year-round weather for tourists, surfers and sun lovers come pests and uncontrollable weeds, which poses a major problem for farmers and agriculturalists.

It’s problems like these that have scientists and chemical companies on the leading edge of experimentation with food biotechnology techniques, used to improve food production. There are many different biotechnical processes aimed at improving new food and beverage products, including industrial fermentation, plant cultures and genetic engineering (GE).

Professional longboarder and Southern California filmmaker, Cyrus Sutton, addresses these subjects in his latest documentary, Island Earth.

Cyrus has been using his film and photography skills for more than a decade to document his travels and surf lifestyle, and create health and educational resources that help spread awareness.

After visiting the Hawaiian Islands and experiencing firsthand the struggles families have gone through who live in the direct wind pathway of chemical companies and GMO crops, Cyrus decided to bring forth the problem with industrial agriculture and Hawai’i’s resurgence toward sustainable food practices.

“This one issue on these tiny islands affects the way food is grown and consumed all over the world,” explains Sutton. “There’s no other issue in the world that has citizens, farmers, scientists, economists, and policy makers all discussing where our food comes from like GMO’s in Hawai’i.

By sharing Hawai’i’s struggle, we aim to create a film which can be used to inform and inspire people to go beyond the issues and the activism and actually participate in taking back our food supply.”

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Per acre, the Hawaiian Islands have more kinds of genetically modified crop experimentation than anywhere else in the world, and 90 percent of the seeds that are used in the world today are owned by six chemical companies. Most of the companies manufacturing these seeds also produce the pesticides and other chemicals that are used in the growing process. While some say that the dangers of genetic modification are insignificant, many of the pesticides have long been proven to be harmful to public health and the environment.

According to Sutton’s film, many local farmers feel that GMO’s are a potentially valuable tool for combating year-round insects and plant diseases without pesticides and think that to judge the technology with chemical farming is unfair. Other farmers want to ban the practice altogether, in fear of uncontrolled cross-contamination of their organic crops through pollen drift. People on both sides of the debate agree that the pesticides, long used in industrial agriculture, have been toxic to public and environmental health, and our culture’s reliance on fossil fuels to grow our food is unsustainable in a peak oil economy.

“I’m not taking sides about GMOs in this film because I am not a scientist,” says Sutton. “What I am taking a stand for is the untapped potential of local and diversified agriculture. 100 years ago, one in three people were farmers; today it is less than one in sixty. Whenever you outsource any part of an industry to large corporate interests, you are going to sacrifice quality for efficiency and convenience. We have a large problem with unemployment in my generation and more and more of us are seeing the connection between our health and the quality of the food we eat. Because of this, we are seeking to take back our power by

COMMUNITY / ISLAND EARTH

growing our own food.”

Island Earth is a film showcasing small businesses, young farmers and families fighting corporate corruption in Hawai’i, and their attempts to create healthy, efficient and local sustainable food systems that don’t have to rely on fossil fuels and chemicals. In addition to the film, Cyrus and his team have partnered with The Ecology Center to provide educational resources that help build community and worldwide awareness.

“My most memorable moment was visiting the Westside of Kauai and seeing all of the chemical fields surrounding the town of Waimea,” Sutton recalls. “Witnessing all the kids playing in the red dust that covered the town was sad to see, especially after learning what was in the dust.”

As a result of agricultural practices developed during the Green Revolution, we have become more efficient at producing large quantities of food. But these gains come at the cost of the product and consumer.

The health of humans is directly related to the health of our soils. Many of the gains reported by industrial agriculture are the result of farming practices that exhaust soil health and invite weeds, pests and disease.

Nature creates stability in its ecosystems through an intricate web of species interdependency and Cyrus said as long as society relies primarily on vast monocultures (endless acres of corn and soy) we are fighting nature. This fight creates a dependency on fossil fuel and chemicals for our food.

In Hawai’i the issue is exasperated. On the islands there are limited resources, and the state currently imports 80-90 percent of their food

supply from elsewhere in the world. Because of this, Hawai’i is home to some of the most expensive food prices in the United States. Food shortages are becoming more common across the islands as extreme weather events like tropical storms and hurricanes disrupt the Pacific shipping routes.

But that’s not how it has always been. Less than two centuries ago, native Hawaiians fed their large population through some of the most historically sustainable agricultural practices ever documented. Fast forward to today, with rising prices and lack of access to healthy food, and Hawaiians and other residents are galvanizing at a local level to grow nutritious food in their own backyards.

Superior Optics For Superior People

COMMUNITY / ISLAND EARTH

SHOULD SLATER RETIRE? Latronic

SURF POLL /

The answer is diversity. In nature, diversity equals resiliency. Only by mimicking the diversity found in nature will we be able to lessen our dependency on monocultures, which tax our planet and our health.

Practices like agroforestry, composting, and rotational grazing will restore our lands and watersheds.

And according to Cyrus, despite their disagreements over genetic modification, farmers, scientist and politicians on both sides of the GMO debate in Hawai’i agree that a return to diversity and local food production with fewer pesticides is the key to a safe and strong future.

“When we make the switch from consumers to producers, we no longer depend on the very systems we attack and we become true revolutionaries. Food and shelter will always conquer bullets and words.”

– Bill Mollison, Permaculture Founder As gas prices today plummet to the lowest we’ve seen in years, what will the future be like; five dollars, ten dollars per gallon? War? How much will food cost in ten, twenty years? How will our descendants, and we, survive? Take the prepper’s point of view and get ready for if and when the ships stop coming and food prices skyrocket. You can start by composting and returning waste back into the system to recycle into usefulness. Maybe build your own backyard mini-garden with herbs, vegetables and tomatoes. Practice agroforestry and permaculture techniques. Make wiser consumer choices. Reduce, reuse and recycle.

Use non-toxic cleaners and conserve your water supply. Start now and take advantage of the 365-day growing season here in Hawai’i.

In the coming years, how and where our food is produced will directly affect our ability to survive on this planet, and Island Earth is a documentary that will hopefully serve as a tool for organizations working to change the way we grow and consume food in the US, and around the world.

All profits from Island Earth will go toward supporting education, and to those families who’ve been directly affected by pesticide exposure.

For more information on the GMO debate in Hawai’i, the Island Earth trailer and all its supporters visit https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ cyrussutton/island-earth-documentary. For more on Cyrus Sutton, his rad team of genius artists and their latest surf shenanigans, visit www. korduroy.tv. pau

Jamie O’Brien: I don’t think Slater should retire, I enjoy watching him surf. He brings me to the computer to watch surfing and makes it exciting.

Mark Healey: Slater should do whatever the hell he wants, man, he’s Slater, he can.

Bruce Irons: No, he’s good for the sport. He should never retire.

Ross Williams: No, he’s surfing too good to retire.

Mick Fanning: He’s still winning so why would he?

Dusty Payne: I don’t think Slater should retire, not while he’s surfing this good. It would be silly. He’s probably going to be coming down to the beach in a wheel chair to surf heats. Nah, he’s surfing so good I don’t see why he would retire now. He’s surfing better than ever I think.

Matt Wilkinson: Yup! Nah, I don’t think he should retire when he’s doing airs that nobody has ever done.

He’s still winning events and in the race for the title so I don’t think his time is up yet.

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HEAVY WATER THE DOCUMENTARY

Q&A

WITH ALL EDGE ENTERTAINMENT

By Lauren Rolland When the barrels are heaving and the ocean is roiling and you’re sitting on the sand watching the pros tackle behemoth waves, remember that the surfers aren’t the only ones taking the risk out there in the water. Yes, the surfers are the athletes and action of the sport, but the images that make us both cringe and salivate long after the waves are gone are captured by equally bold athletes.

Surf and water photographers are the underdogs of surfing, yet have just as many if not more stories to share about shooting in the lineup. From vigorous swims and losing fins, to below surface scares, injuries and victories, the stories of surfing are best told by both artist and athlete.

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The filmmakers behind the new documentary, Heavy Water, traveled to the North Shore of Oahu during the last week of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing to gather unique interviews, photos and video about the topic. The documentary is being produced by All Edge Entertainment, which was founded by a team of passionate surfers, surf photographers and ocean enthusiasts. Based out of Santa Monica, California, the team strived to learn more about the history of surfing and the kindred relationship between artist and athlete, and produce a film that revealed it all.

Photos All Edge Entertainment What is the premise of Heavy Water? Heavy Water explores the symbiotic relationship between surfers and the photographers whose images have historically made them famous.

The project is composed in part from 38 interviews conducted on the North Shore of Oahu during the 2014 Billabong Pipe Masters. Once a niche sport, the now billion-dollar surf industry has always been dependent on the daring photographers willing to risk life and limb for the perfect shot. What we learn in Heavy Water is that as technology advances and both worlds evolve, tides are shifting in many directions.

HEAVYWATER / THE DOCUMENTARY

When did the idea for the documentary begin?

The seed was planted after Brendan O’Neal, an avid surf photographer and member of All Edge Entertainment’s Santa Monica-based team had some photos published in the 40-year storm edition of Surfer Magazine. Brendan recounted a harrowing tale to us in the office, describing how difficult it was to get these images.

In that moment, we began to wonder if surf fans even knew about the intrepid photographers who, in many cases, risked their lives to capture these iconic images of surfing. As longtime surf-enthusiasts, this came as a shock to each of us. Knowing the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing had already begun, we decided that the Billabong Pipe Masters would be the perfect backdrop for our documentary.

Why Pipe?

Pipeline is one of the most legendary and dangerous waves in the world. The watermen who either surf it or capture it on film are some of the most capable, inspiring athletes and artists on the planet.

Also, we wanted to witness the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing event firsthand.

So the documentary focuses on both the surfer and the surf photographer. Tell us a little bit about this relationship and why you feel it is so important in surfing today.

The popularity of surfing today is a direct result of the relationship between the surfer and the person capturing their image in action. Before the advent of current technology, there were less than a handful of photographers willing or able to do it. Without these photographers sharing what they captured, word of the feats being accomplished in areas like the North Shore would’ve been just that -- words, stories. Out of these captured images, a culture was born.

The photographers relied on the surfers to push the limits of what was possible on their boards, and the surfers relied on the photographers to document what they were doing. A mutual success meant lucrative opportunities for both athlete and artist. The resulting imagery is what expanded surf culture beyond the actual beaches and began to inspire people around the world.

What is the main purpose you’re striving to get across to viewers?

We wanted to get a never before seen look at the industry from the people out there on the front lines, which for us included the photographers.

What can the audience expect?

Viewers get to see legendary surfers and surf photographers telling epic stories behind iconic images that have made the sport what it is today. The film features emerging surfers and surf photographers speaking about the personal impact and influence of people who came before them. An inside look is taken at the grit, determination, skill and commitment necessary to become a world class waterman, whether it’s from behind the lens or in front of it. We examine how the lifestyle born from this culture developed over time. And a critical point of the film comes from discussing the impact of technology on surf photography, how advances have made it easier to get great shots but not without a few negative attributes.

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Who is involved in the filming?

Beyond the All Edge Entertainment team, we had the pleasure of working with Hiriata Hart, owner/operator of Buttons Surf School.

Hiriata helped us assemble a wonderful group of people to be part of our Hale Pono experience.

When will Heavy Water premiere?

We’re currently reviewing and editing interviews and footage from the Billabong Pipe Masters / Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. While dates are still TBD, information or events surrounding the project or where to catch it will be posted to alledge.com and we’ll be sure to keep you posted.

pau

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SURF ART /

REFLECTION OF THE NORTH SHORE

9th Annual Wyland Surf Art Show

The featured surf artists gather at Wyland Galleries in Haleiwa every year to celebrate surfing and art.

By Lauren Rolland Interviews by Kiana King (Ho) In Hawai’i, we are lucky enough to enjoy a 360-degree view of nature on the daily. Oahu’s North Shore is abundant with perfectly curved blue waves, watercolor sunsets, saturated greens and an array of bright flowers that populate the beaches, bike path and view planes. Every day there seems to be something new to notice and admire, and it’s no wonder why artists the world over find inspiration along these shores.

One of the most shared art form that captures our attention here in Hawai’i is surfing. The fluid motion of drawing a line on a wave is similar to the way an artist sketches on canvas; the motion is rhythmic, organic and focused, but the difference is in the medium. Artists have canvases while surfers have waves.

The similarity between the two art forms comes together in Haleiwa, where art galleries are abundant and photography adorns most shops and restaurants in the small surf town. Surf art is a depiction of what the North Shore cherishes most, and each year during the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, one gallery in particular celebrates this relationship.

The 9th Annual Surf Art Show took place on December 13 and 14 in Haleiwa, at Wyland Galleries in the North Shore Marketplace. This year saw the return of renowned artists Heather Brown, Christie Shinn,

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L to R, David Wight, Colleen WIlcox and Eduardo Bolioli.

SURF ART /

Christie Shinn

Oahu-based linocut artist Heather Brown says that surf art’s intention is to give the viewer the same feeling as when you’re out in the water.

“Hawai’i is such an amazing place, and everyone wants to take a piece home with them,” Heather explains. “Being able to capture that magical moment and give people that same feeling is what surf art is all about.”

Heather Brown and Colleen Wilcox

Colleen Wilcox, David Wight, Walfrido, Welzie, Steven Power, Hilton Alves, Troy Carney and more, along with new artists Erik Abel and Eduardo Bolioli, and special guests Gregg Kaplan and Wyland himself.

The evening was a classy one, with pupus and libations keeping the mood lively while locals, fans and artists mingled together in the name of surfing and art. The timing of the Surf Art Show in conjunction with the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing (VTCS) is no coincidence, as many of the night’s artists have had their work featured as VTCS poster art.

Colleen Wilcox was chosen to do the art for the VTCS women’s event in 2010, Troy Carney was commissioned as the event poster artist in 2011, Christie Shinn in 2013, Gregg Kaplan in 2014 and Erik Abel, who designed the Reef Hawaiian Pro poster, in 2011 and 2014.

Inspired by the ocean and his love for surfing, Erik Abel explains that surf art means, “being an artist that expresses their experience in the ocean.” Based in Ventura, California, the ocean is Erik’s backyard playground and from a young age he believed that the ocean and making art were one in the same.

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North Shore artist Christie Shinn loves to depict the daily moments of the beach lifestyle here in Hawai’i, and says that surf art can be anything that is inspired by the ocean and surfing. “Sometimes it’s just about the beach day you had out on the North Shore,” Christie describes.

Originally from New Zealand and now a resident of Kauai, Troy Carney uses 12-24k white and yellow gold to depict beautiful breaking waves, and his pieces are well known throughout the islands. With a love for surfing that he channels into art, Troy’s work is a result of his surroundings on both Kauai and New Zealand.

Honolulu-based painter Colleen Wilcox finds inspiration in nature, as do most other surf artists, but illustrates that surf art is not just an actual scene from surfing or nature. “It can be the surfing lifestyle,” Colleen describes. “Or showing appreciation for the ocean through art.”

Wyland, celebrated marine life artist, has dedicated his work to the protection and conservation of the oceans. “If people see the beauty of nature, they’ll work to preserve it,” the Oahu resident describes during the Surf Art Show. “I hope the portrayal of our beautiful pristine ocean in surf art reminds people of what we need to take care of now and in the future”. pau

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PAU HANA /

LAKA BURGESS FROM SURFING TO SALES

By Chris Latronic Laka Haililani Burgess grew up surfing Sunset Beach on the North Shore of Oahu, hunting anywhere that had good barrels and stomping around Ke Nui and Kam Highway as a grom. The now 42-year-old was educated all over the island and beyond, from Sunset Beach and Kokohead Elementary to Kamehameha, Huntington Beach High and Santa Ana Community College.

After entering the professional surfing field at the young age of 16, Laka was a solid up and coming prospect in the era of Pancho Sullivan – the power surfing age. Laka’s best competitive result was a semifinal finish at the HIC Pipeline Pro in 1996 and this year, the surfer is looking to compete in enough events to get into the Vans HIC Pro at Sunset Beach.

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First experience surfing?

I don’t remember my first time. I do remember when my family had some land down around V-Land Point though, and way back then there were only a few houses on the beach. I used to take my uncle’s old single fin and catch 10-inch waves and think I was killing it. I used to think it was two feet till my grandma showed me a picture of me surfing it. My first board was a Hawaiian Style single fin. My Dad took me over to my Uncle Brian (Surratt’s) house, where he lifted his garage door, had about 100 boards inside and said ‘pick one’.

You a family man?

Laka’s job expertise is also extensive, varying from manure transportation engineer (yes you read that right) to being a lifeguard and rescue specialist with Big Island Fire to performing helicopter and ocean rescues on the regular. Laka’s professional track has been nothing short of unique.

Nothing in this world has molded or changed me for the better more than having my two sons. I take great pride in raising my children. My soon-to-be wife is also a huge positive in my life.

Favorite surfer, past/present?

The surfer’s diverse life journey has brought him to his current occupations as a Honolulu Firefighter and also a sales representative for Xcel Wetsuits, SUPERbrand and Filtrate Eyewear.

There are so many great individuals and artistic people in their craft… too many to point in just one direction. But I’ll do it anyway. Duke (Kahanamoku) for the past, for what he gave to the sport, and JJF for where he’s taking the sport today.

PAU HANA / LAKA BURGESS Fondest moment in your competitive surfing career?

I’ll say the heaviest moment was the HIC Pipe Pro back in the day, quarterfinal heat after posting a 9 on a Backdoor wave. The reef sucked dry as I tried to squeak back out and the next wave exploded on me, slammed me upside down on my back, then head, then ribs.

I finally came up and Abe Learner was there on the ski asking if I was okay. If I accepted help, I would have been DQ’d. I paddled back out after a few minutes inside, got one more Backdoor wave for a 5.5 and advanced to the semi’s. The event staff had me ice my back when I got to shore because it was so swollen. It seized up, I could barely walk. I couldn’t even paddle back out for the semi’s. The next morning I awoke to my pillow sticking to my head because blood had dried to it and I didn’t even know.

If someone writes in to the magazine and answers who won that event, I will send them a free pair of shades!

How does one become a surf rep?

Usually, it’s by the people you know in the industry. I was fortunate enough to have friends that knew important people in the surf industry. With my background as a professional surfer it was easy for me to get right in there and step in as a sub-rep at first, then evolving into thee ‘Rep’ position. Next thing you know, I’ve got great brands like Xcel wetsuits, SUPERbrand and Filtrate Eyewear. In the end, its all comes down to who you know.

What’s it like in the surf rep world?

Tell us about being a firefighter.

You’re on the road a lot and you get to meet a lot of different people. You work closely with the buyers and the owners, trying to cater to the retailers. Every retailer is different and has their own niche in the market, so you work with them to find what sells best for them.

The more turns your product makes within their store, the happier everybody is. It’s a great job. I handle the sales for my territory, which includes Hawai’i and Guam for each of my brands. If I knew this side of the business when I was competing/growing up I would’ve treated my career much more professionally when I was younger. Everyone knows everyone or has links in some way. Be cool to everybody!

It’s a very rewarding job! Everyday can bring new challenges. The profession is highly respected and highly gratifying as well. I’ve been in the Fire Department for over 10 years and I’m able to learn new things every shift still. So fortunate!

Who does a surf brand hire as their rep - an ex-professional surfer or a hot shot MBA from the mainland?

If you could change anything on this island, what would it be?

Ooooh controversy! I would change the requirements for home ownership here. You would have to live here first for 5-10+ years before you can come in and buy a house. And an airport tax. Every non-resident to Hawai’i who lands here for business or pleasure pays an additional $2.00 tax to go toward infrastructure and maintenance of the islands. I have so many more I can’t even get started.

Future goals?

It’s always good to have the business background. But you could take a guy who has a Harvard degree and put him in the surfing world and you can easily tell he’s a fish out of water. You have to have a background in surfing. Majority of the buyers and the people who run these stores have surfing backgrounds, so if you can’t talk to them one-on-one, relate to how the waves were yesterday or how the markets are doing and where you see it trending, then it’s hard for that guy to effectively help their business.

Possibly developing my own company. Actually it’s already in motion.

Last words of wisdom to Freesurf readers?

I wouldn’t think of it as wisdom, but rather lessons already learned. Life is constantly changing, people change, treat everyone as nice as possible. See ya in the water! pau

Rock

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R.I.P. RICARDO

On the morning of Tuesday, January 20, the surfing community awoke to the tragic news that Brazilian pro surfer Ricardo dos Santos had passed away. The 24-year-old was in critical condition at St. Joseph’s Hospital in Brazil after being shot Monday morning during an altercation in Praia da Guarda do Embaú, near Palhoca. Ricardo is remembered as a tuberiding legend that helped reshape public perception of Brazilian surfing in waves of consequence.

Born on May 23rd, 1990, Ricardo topped a talented, experienced field to win the 2012 Billabong Pro Tahiti Trials before beating Jordy Smith, Taj Burrow and Kelly Slater in the main event, which earned him the coveted Andy Irons Award for Most Committed Performance. That same year, Ricardo won the Surfline Wave of the Winter, which continued to solidify his name in the professional world of surfing as a young, courageous and talented goofyfoot from Brazil.

Kelly Slater posted an image on Instagram of an impromptu paddle out at Pipe on January 20, with this message: “Beautiful morning but I was horrified to realize everyone was paddling out to Pipe to form a circle in remembrance of my friend, #RicardoDosSantos, who passed away in hospital after being shot three

times yesterday in #Brasil. @ricardosantos90 was truly one of the great barrel riders of his short time (myself and a few others learned that the hard way against him at Teahupo’o a couple years back when he won the #AndyIronsAward in the event). He also won the #WaveOfTheWinter in 2012-2013 for a crazy barrel at #Pipeline and was a regular standout in any barreling or heavy conditions around the world. This was truly a senseless loss of life. It unfortunately brings to light the number of murders yearly in Brasil, officially documented at over 50,000 with many thousands more going unreported. Lack of education, poverty, and drugs don’t make for a good mix and make life challenging in this country, one of the most beautiful and scariest places I’ve been. Condolences to Ricardo’s friends and family around the world. Our small community has lost another way too soon. #RIPRDS #WTF #HardToBelieve”.

Our deepest condolences and prayers go out to Ricardo’s friends and family, and the entire Brazilian surfing community, for this terrible, senseless tragedy that stole a brilliant young man who was well on his way to becoming one of the greatest Brazilian surfers and most fearless tuberiding heroes of all time.

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Kala Alexander

Kala Alexander, Hawaiian surfing legend and big-wave surfer, has been announced as another of the great international competitors for New Zealand’s inaugural invitation-only surfing event, The Ultimate Waterman. Event creator and Surfing New Zealand chief executive Greg Townsend said Kala is regarded as “a humble Hawaiian surfing ambassador, stand out all-round waterman, fearless big wave surfer, actor, stuntman and dedicated advocate of the ocean.”

The Ultimate Waterman event, to be held on March 14-21, 2015 in Auckland, is a global surfing event and is by ‘invitation only’ for just eight athletes, who will compete for eight days in six different surfing disciplines - shortboarding, longboarding, stand-up paddleboard (SUP) endurance, SUP surfing, waka-ama endurance and tow-in surfing. For ongoing updates, check out www. theultimatewaterman.com or stay tuned on Instagram @theultimatewaterman.

Honolua Surf Company Expands Their Team. The Maui-based surf company now welcomes Isaac Stant, Ocean & Summer Macedo and Zane Schweitzer on board! Isaac Stant is one of Maui’s young up and coming big wave chargers who is slowly making a name for himself in the lineup at Peahi. Ocean & Summer Macedo are some of Maui’s next big names in the junior surfing world, and Zane Schweitzer has made his mark as one of the worlds most accomplished SUP athletes. The four surfers will join the athlete team that also includes Buzzy Kerbox, Archie Kalepa, Alika Moipono, Bonga Perkins, Sierra Lerback, Patrick Fukuda and Kalani Vierra 94

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INDUSTRY NOTES

and Kiva Rivers. And speaking of the Maui waterman, Kiva is now the new Honolua Surf Company team manager! A long time team rider for Honolua, Kiva continues to push the envelope in longboarding, shortboarding and paddleboarding and is a wonderful ambassador to the company and team of athletes.

Webb and Guinness World Record holder and big wave rider Garrett McNamara.

Depactus on Display. After months and months of rigorous R&D, the first line from DEPACTUS finally hit shops on February 1. Anchored by a collection of technical boardshorts, the spring ’15 line will also include a technical windbreaker, mariner’s shorts (hybrids), organic knits, woven’s and much more.

“DEPACTUS has continued to develop our product range, build brand awareness and expand our sales force since our launch at Agenda last July,” says CEO and President Bruce Beach. “To celebrate the brand launch we’ve just dropped the second installment of our “Men of Extraordinary Pursuits” series, featuring Maui’s own Matt Meola. The fulllength edit is now live on DEPACTUS.com.

Also, stay tuned on Instagram @depactus for a chance to win free boardshorts and a custom Chris Christenson-shaped surfboard.

Vissla added Eric Geiselman to its diverse Raquel Lima team of Creators and Innovators. Born and raised on the rampy wedges of New Smyrna Beach, Florida to a talented shaper-dad, Eric stormed the amateur ranks from ESA to NSSA, collecting titles and trophies along the way. Going pro, Eric won three consecutive North American Pro-Junior titles, the Dew Tour’s Expression Session, an Oakley Pro Junior, a 14th placing on Surfline’s 20 Under 20 poll, the “Most Radical Maneuver” in the 2007 Surfer Poll, and the cover of Transworld Surf magazine.

Pakaloha Bikinis has a new team rider, Raquel Lima. Raquel lives on the North Shore of Maui and is an inspirational kite boarder. This year, Raquel has plans of traveling the globe looking for amazing kiting opportunities both on the snow and on water. Be sure to follow this athlete on Instagram @raquellima808.

Body Glove Unveils Latest Action Sports Camera Case. With the action sports camera industry booming and nearly one billion images that are captured on smartphones everyday, Optrix by Body Glove has created a new line of iPhone lens cases to let users document their adventures in the most rugged of conditions. The cases are already a huge hit with pros like WCT surfer Tatiana Weston-

Jamba Juice Hawai’i is proud to announce the debut of its NEW fresh-squeezed juice line, now available only in Maui. Made from whole foods ingredients for a highly nutritious and simply delicious blend, every ounce of these juices will satisfy your taste for pure refreshment and your needs for a healthy, balanced lifestyle.

Launched in all four Maui Jamba Juice Hawai’i locations (Queen Kaahumanu, Old Lahaina Center, Pililani Village and Maui Marketplace) on January 12, the new juice line is rolling out statewide in June. “There is certainly a demand for fresh, squeezedto-order juices, and we are so excited to introduce the juice lines to Maui and eventually

to Oahu, Kauai and Hawai’i Island this summer,” says Donna Yano, VP of Jamba Juice Hawai’i.

GoPro Goes Live with HD Wireless Broadcasting. GoPro, Inc. and Vislink, a provider specializing in the collection, management and delivery of high quality video and associated data, announced a partnership to enable GoPro HERO4 cameras with a professional grade, live, HD wireless broadcast solution.

The two companies have been working together on a transmitter that is small enough to be worn or mounted in unique areas to provide all new perspectives for people watching their favorite live sports and events. The solution will be showcased during popular live events this winter, including Winter X Games 2015 Aspen, select AMA Monster Energy Supercross events and other live sporting events.

The Surfrider Foundation has achieved the milestone of 300 coastal victories (in the last 10 years). Armed with a model to defend our coasts, Surfrider has successfully battled every environmental issue plaguing our coasts and threatening our ocean. 300 victories is more than just a number. It’s a testament to the great work by our volunteer-activist network. It means another beach is open and accessible to everyone, another wave has been saved for future generations of surfers, another day without a beach closure due to pollution and another piece of trash that won’t litter our beaches.

Surf trip to the UK on the horizon? The world’s newest surf spot, Surf Snowdonia, is the very first commercial inland surfing facility, and is scheduled to open in July. Surf Snowdonia will bring a wave garden with a lagoon, water slide, wakeboard lake, lodges and restaurant to Dolgarrog, Conwy Valley in the United Kingdom, in a project that will cement the region’s growing reputation as the UK’s adventure capital.

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LAST LOOK

Albee Layer flying through Pe’ahi’s end zone. Photo: Gavin Shige