V12n3 by Freesurf Magazine

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H a w a i ’ i

COVER Mikey Bruneau | Photo: Tony Heff

W W W. H U R L E Y. C O M

KOA ROTHMAN

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RH FACTOR H YAT T R E G E N C Y WA I K I K I

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#WELIVEFORTHIS Name: Kalani Chapman Age: 32

Occupation: Professional Surfer Home Town: Haleiwa

Board: Surftech Channel Island New Flyer

SURFTECH.COM photo: Nelly

FREE PARKING

The Volcom Pipe Pro signals the close of Hawaii’s surf season, but also the beginning too in a sense, since this highly prestigious event is a qualifier for the Pipe Masters in December. Not to mention a local favorite. The Pipe Pro gives competitors the chance to surf Pipeline and Backdoor with only three other guys in the water - a very rare and special opportunity that any surfer would envy. Even if you don’t walk away with the trophy, just competing in the event is a reward in itself. Here’s Seth Moniz, reaping the benefits. Photo: Sean Reilly

Reilly

COVER STORY

Page 1 of this farewell to winter issue of Freesurf magazine features none other than underground charger and Pipeline mainstay Mikey Bruneau. These days with social media, online video and photo contests, and web media portals reporting action the day it happens, it’s hard to stay underground… especially if you surf like Mikey. And if you’ve paid any attention to social media this season, you would have definitely caught wind of this man’s death defying acts involving a certain wave located on a far away island. Family man and North Shore lifeguard, Mikey is like most surfers in their mid 30s. He wakes up, stretches, and puts his boardshorts on just like the rest of us... one leg at a time. Except once his boardshorts are on, he fearlessly charges maxing Pipeline. This winter, it seemed that every time Pipe turned on, Mikey Bruneau turned up. With a knack for being in the right place at the right time, the Big Island native nabbed set waves and escaped scot-free over foam balls and through narrow passageways. But Mikey is just one of many in a culture of chargers willing to put it all on the line for a moment of bliss engulfed in the worlds most violently amazing wave. And with the talent pool at Pipe full to the brim, it’s not easy to standout. But this winter season, Mikey seemed to steal the show when it came to Pipeline freesurfing sessions, and in the process made for a beautiful Freesurf cover. -Tony Heff pau

Rock / Manulele

JOSH MONIZ

Hawaii’s Biggest and Best Selection of Surf Gear

Rocky Rights

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Amplifire Model by Eric Arakawa: 5’11” X 18.5” X 2.3”

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TABLE OF C ONT ENT S

Free Parking

Cover Story

14 Editor's Note 20 News & Events 36 Steep & Deep

38 2015 Volcom Pipe Pro 44 Hot Shots 54 Aperture 62 Wahine Spotlight 68 The Shaping Room 74 Grom Report 78 Community 84 Damage Control 86 Living Pono 90 Shoots 92 Industry Notes 96 Last Look

Models Indi Pyzel. Photo Marina Miller

Heff

14TH ANNUAL

MAY 2ND 2015

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher / Editor Lauren Rolland Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Editorial Assistant Sean Reilly

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Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Sean Reilly, Tyler Rock Free Thinkers Shawn Pila, Rae Sojot

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Contributing Photographers Paulo Barcellos, John Bilderback, Kyle Burnett, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Damea Dorsey, Rick Doyle, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Hodgson, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson, Cole Yamane

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Professional surfing’s off-season sure went quick. It’s mid-March and the world’s best are back, kicking off the 2015 Championship Tour down under. But here in Hawai’i, there really wasn’t anything ‘off’ about the off-season. Sure the pros found downtime back home, but those that lingered around the North Shore were treated to less crowded lineups and epic winter swells that, week after week, marched in from the north Pacific. While we did see days of whipping west winds and heavy vog, aside from this the season was beautiful and abundant. Springtime officially begins on March 20th. Freesurf is slowly shifting away from our big season focus and embracing calmer days. But before completely transitioning out of the North Shore, we’re delivering one more issue of photographic testament to the epic freesurf sessions that went down this winter. Peek the recap of the top 10 finalists from the annual Steep & Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge on page 36, and then flip through the winter wave Aperture gallery on page 54 for instant transportation to the blue room. Since the photographers from this season deserve every bit of recognition as the surfers, we’ve dedicated this month’s feature to a handful of Hot Shots. Highlighting five talented watermen whose passion puts them behind the lens, these photographers are at the prime of their lives, producing some of today’s best images of surfing. Find out what motivates these Hawai’i surf shutterbugs plus check out some of their best work on page 44. As a prelude to spring, let’s keep things fresh, lively and young. We’re always open to new ideas, feedback or comments, so if you’re in the mood to say hi, hit us up at info@freesurfmagazine.com. Thanks for reading. - Lauren Rolland Associate Publisher

Tyler Rock

Signing Off For Spring

Heff

NEWS & EVENTS

Heff

Seth Moniz

WSL SUNSET BEACH PRO JUNIOR By Tyler Rock As the second WSL Junior event of the year and the first for Hawai’i, the venue of Sunset Beach delivered surf in the 4 to 8 foot range over three consecutive days of competition. Boasting an international field of some of the best 20-year-old and under surfers, this event gives the junior pros crucial contest experience at a world-class break, as well as up to 1,000 points toward the WSL Junior Tour rankings. With the event’s opening day seeing a medium sized swell fill into the Sunset Beach reef, early round standouts included Brazilian Lucas Silveira and Tahiti’s Keoni Yan who threw down the highest two-wave heat score of the day with a 17.83 total. Also pushing through were some of the youngest competitors including 13-year-old North Shore local Wyatt McHale.

Sean Reilly

Kalani David

Dax McGill

On the second day of competition, the Junior Women’s division took over the lineup with a 3 to 4 foot swell growing in size throughout the day. By the time the final hit the water, the swell had boosted into the 6-foot range and an all-Hawai’i heat tackled the prime Sunset Beach conditions. After some back and forth exchanges, North Shore’s Dax McGill took the win in a triumphant finish. “I finished second here last year, so it feels so good to win,” said McGill. “Ultimately my goal is to qualify for the women’s Championship Tour and win a world title, but for now I just want to score some great waves and get the experience.” On the final day of the event, the swell jacked up to solid 6 to 8 foot Hawaiian surf. While a handful of Hawai’i surfers like Kalani David had a solid run, it was an international contingent that was turning heads.

N e w s & E vent s /

Rock

NEWS & EVENTS / SUNSET BEACH PRO JR

S H O W

R O O M

BIKINIS, CLOTHES & ACCESSORIES

Heff

Rock

Seth Moniz

Costa Rican Noe Mar McGonagle and Japanese surfer Takumi Nakamura had impressive performances and respectable 7th and 5th place finishes respectively. Rounding out the Junior Men’s final was dark horse American Daniel Glenn, Brazil’s Lucas Silveira, Australian Soli Bailey, and Hawai’i’s own Seth Moniz. Soli surfed solid through the final putting down an early lead. But Seth Moniz battled back finding an outside barrel late in the heat that would move him up into first. “I won the Pipe Juniors last year and that’s my favorite wave, but these are definitely the biggest waves we’ve had for a junior event, so I’m really happy to win under those conditions,” said Moniz. “I’m in my last year of school this year, so it might be a few years before I qualify for the world tour, but that’s what I’m working towards.” Congrats Seth! SUNSET BEACH PRO JR RESULTS JUNIOR MEN’S FINAL:  1st - Seth Moniz (HAW) - 15.15 points - $2,000, 1000 points  2nd - Soli Bailey (AUS) - 14.8 - $900, 750 points  3rd - Lucas Silveira (BRA) - 7.25 - $600, 560 points  4th - Glenn Daniel (USA) - 7.2 - $500, 525 points

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JUNIOR WOMEN’S FINAL:  1. Dax McGill (HAW) - 16.5 points - $900, 1000 points  2. Honolua Blomfield (HAW) - 10.83 - $400, 750 points  3. Summer Macedo (HAW) - 4.66 - $160, 560 points  4. Brisa Hennessy (HAW) - 4.13 - $140, 525 point

18th Annual • May 16 - 17th, 2015 • Queens Beach, Waikiki Name: _____________________________________________________________________________________ Address: ____________________________________________________________________________________ City: _________________________________ State: _____________________ Zip Code: ___________________ Gender: Male ______ Female ______ Age (as of 5.16.15): _______ DOB: ________________________________ Home Phone: _____________________ E-Mail: _____________________________________________________ • Fees: $25 entry fee. Single division only. Includes t-shirt, goodie bag and lunch. Beach entry fee $50.00. • All H.A.S.A. and N.S.S.A. or non-Hawaii residents are not eligible to enter the contest in any division. • Deadline: Entries must be received by Wednesday, May 6, 2015. Sorry, no refunds. • Divisions: Check only one. No parental assistance in the line up with the exception of the Kokua Division. Boys Shortboard - board must not exceed 2 feet over your head. __ 6-8 years old __ 9-10 years old __ 11-12 years old Girls Shortboard - board must not exceed 2 feet over your head. Presented By: __ 6-8 years old __ 9-10 years old __ 11-12 years old Boys Longboard - round nose board must exceed 3 feet over your head. __ 6-9 years old __ 10-12 years old Girls Longboard - round nose board must exceed 3 feet over your head. __ 6-9 years old __ 10-12 years old Featuring The: Boys & Girls Bodyboard __ 6-9 years old __ 10-12 years old Boys & Girls Kokua Division - parent assist, short or longboard. __ 3-6 years old • Mail Entries with Payment to: T&C Surf Designs/Grom Contest 99-1295 Waiua Place Aiea, HI 96701 • Checks Made Payable to: Town & Country Recreations • For More Information: 808-483-8711 • Returned Checks: $25.00 charge • Contest Waiver: I acknowledge that surfing and related activities are hazardous and that I have made a voluntary choice to participate in these activities despite the risk that they present. In consideration of my being permitted to partici-

pate in the HSP/T&C Surf Grom Contest, I agree to assume any and all risks of death which might be associated with or result from my participation in the event. I understand that this waiver holds harmless the State of Hawaii, The City and County of Hawaii, Hawaii Surfing Productions, T&C Surf, and sponsors of all the events listed as well as members, administrators, officials, and officers of the above mentioned parties from all/any liability for injuries and damages what so ever arising from my presence or participation in the events. I, the undersigned, have carefully read and understand this agreement and all it's terms. I understand that this release of liablity which will legallly prevent me or any other persons from filing suit or making any other legal claim for damages in the event of my death or any injury to me. I also agree to conduct myself in a professional and sprots man-like manner before, during and after, and while I am in the vacininty of, all HSP/T&C Surf related events, I understand that any unprofessional or unsports-manlike conduct, will be cause for immediate disqualification from the event at the discretion of the president or executive director of HSP/T&C Surf events. I understand that all entry fees are non-transferable. I further agree that HSP/T&C Surf or any other subsidiary or affiliate thereof may photograhph me (on film or tape), and record my voice, conver-station and sounds during and in connection with th event. I agree that HSP/T&C Surf or any such subsidiary or affilate shall be the sole owner of the results and proceeds of such photograph and recording. The results and proceeds of such photograph and recording, and any portion thereof, and my name, voice, likeness, and biographical materials and editorial commentsconcerning me may be used, published, displayed and/or copyrighted in any and every form, style, size and/or color by HSP/T&C Surf, it's subsidiary or affiliate, their successors and assigns, or by any other person, corporation or association duly authorized by HSP/T&C Surf or any such subsidiary displ or afffilate, without any restriction or limitation whatsoever, forever and throughout the world, in all media, including without limitation print, radio, motion pictures, television, and internet, when used in connection with this or other events.

Participant Signature: _________________________________________________ Date: ____________________ Parent or Guardian Signature: __________________________________________ Date: ____________________

NEWS & EVENTS / 20TH ANNUAL SHANE DORIAN KEIKI CLASSIC Story by Shawn Pila Photos by Ehitu Keeling The 20th Annual Shane Dorian Keiki Classic was held on Saturday, January 24th at solid 3 to 5 foot Banyans in Kailua-Kona on the Big Island. A weeklong west-northwest swell got the juices flowing and the groms ready for a day of friendly competition. For the last two decades, this awesome free surfing event has only required kids to bring a few canned goods for donation and maintain a minimum 2.25 grade point average in order to enter. High five! Yes the grades were high and the heats were stacked with over 50 groms competing for a shot at victory. Moms and dads and uncles and aunties covered the beaches and cheered on the mini-daredevils as they charged hard. Local pros CJ Kanuha, Casey Brown, Keala Naihe and Leilani Gryde were also in full effect, hanging out with the kids, signing autographs and showing off their skills in the expression session alongside Hawai’i’s favorites Ezekiel Lau and Sunny Garcia. Little Brodi Sale, tackling some of the bigger sets of the day, took the win in the Boys 13 &

Under division, and Charlie Akao dominated the Junior’s with a few hacks in the stormy afternoon choppiness. All contestants scored a contest t-shirt, free lunch and shave ice for dessert, along with prize giveaways that included custom and donated pro surfboards, skateboards,

sunglasses, GoPro’s, Skull Candy headsets and backpacks jam-packed with goodies. Mahalo to Shane Dorian and his family for continuing this event each year and to all the volunteers and supporting sponsors who helped make this day possible.

2015 Banyans Keiki Classic Final Results

Boys (13 & under) 1st- Brodi Sale 2nd- Trae Tanoi 3rd- Tony Nunez 4th- Kenalu Kamehaiku

Shane Dorian

Girls (13 & under) 1st- Malaika Bishaw 2nd- Tegan Harrs 3rd- Rumor Butts 4th- Keelie Carlucci

Brodi Sale

Jr. Boys (14-17) 1st- Charlie Akao 2nd- Ocean Donaldson-Sargis 3rd- Loa Ng 4th- Chris O’Donnel

Jr. Girls (14-17) 1st- Kahanu Delovio 2nd- Chloe Smith 3rd- Keahi Delovio 4th- Kui Delovio

NEWS & EVENTS / 11TH ANNUAL HONOLI’I PAKA ALOHA HONUA SURFING CLASSIC, PRESENTED BY HIC AND BASIC IMAGE INC. Story & Photos By Shawn Pila

On Saturday, January 31st, Basic Image Inc. and Hawaiian Island Creations (HIC) proudly presented the 11th Annual Aloha Honua Surfing Classic, held at the lovely Honoli’i Beach Park in Hilo. The two-day event was blessed with glassy 2-foot surf and the pebbled beaches were packed with youngsters and their families from around the island. Each year, the Aloha Honua festivals are held at both Honoli’i Beach Park and Hakalau Bay, celebrating the past years’ accomplishments and recognizing the community and their devoted volunteers who came together to clean and restore the adopted surf breaks. Since 2003, Keith Nehls (aka Bradda Skibs) and a group of dedicated Big Island surfers have hosted numerous keiki surf contests and beach cleanups, involving young surfers, families and visitors, teaching them not only about surfing, but also about the importance of giving back to the community and taking care of the environment.

Over 80 surfers and 75 bodyboarders participated in the event, and the first day of competition started off with the 3 to 6 year old Kokua surf division. Parents pushed their keiki into head-high inside double-ups while spectators applauded from the shoreline. Following were both the Boys and Girls Menehune and Grom surf divisions, along with the Junior Men’s, Junior Women’s and Expression Session. Day two was just as exciting, as the audience gathered along the oceanfront to cheer on the bodyboarders. Special appearances by master tuberider, Mike Stewart, and drop-knee legend, Keith Sasaki, got the groms all fired up for the Best Trick and Drop-Knee competition. All finalists received awesome goodie bags and certificates, and the winners of each division won a wooden trophy and a brand new surfboard or bodyboard. A big mahalo to Bradda Skibs for continuing this event each year, and to all the volunteers and supporting sponsors who help make this day successful.

Honoli’i Paka Aloha Honua Surfing Classic Results Day 1 – Surf

Day 2 – Bodyboard

Kokua Mix (3-6) 1. Kainalu Kaku 2. Jason Nelson 3. Ocean Butts

Groms Boys (11-14) 1. Ocean Gebonia 2. Honu Ka’amoana-Longley 3. Pelika Delovio

Junior Women (15-17) 1. Kahanu Delovio 2. Stella Javier 3. Ivy Ho

Menehune Mix (11 & Under) 1. Rumor Butts 2. Diesel Butts 3. Kanaipono Eckart

DK Wars (Young Gunz) 1. Hanalei Kahele 2. Jiemone Oliva-Munoz 3. Calvin Cerrone

Menehune Boys (7-10) 1. Diesel Butts 2. Kaipo Freeman 3. Kane Turalde

Groms Girls (11-14) 1. Rumor Butts 2. Malaika Bradshaw 3. Mari Nakano

Expression Session 1. Crispin Nakoa 2. Akila Weber 3. Nalu Kiyan

Grom Mix (12-14) 1. Kai Biegler 2. Buddy Betts 3. Imiloa Waipa

DK Wars (OPEN) 1. Stephanie Franke 2. Kenny Yonemura 3. Spirit Herrington

Menehune Girls (7-10) 1. Ilikea Kamalani 2. Yochi Gervais 3. Maya Maki

Junior Men (15-17) 1. Nico Vincent 2. Kaimana Lefort 3. Noah Chow

Junior Mix (15-17) 1. Kaulupali Makaneole 2. Hanalei Kanahele

Best Trick 1. Sam Ambler

3. Kayin Wilson

NEWS & EVENTS / VOLCOM GIVES BACK During the Volcom Pipe Pro Awards ceremony at Pipeline, Volcom Co-Founder and Executive Chairman Richard Woolcott presented Boys & Girls Club of Hawai’i (BGCH) President & CEO Tim Motts with a check for $46,500, as a gift from Volcom’s Give Back Series. Monies from the Give Back Series are raised through sales of special Hawai’i only styles in Volcom’s clothing line and a portion of the proceeds goes to a chosen non-profit organization that helps to further a cause in the community. Volcom has partnered with BGCH in its Give Back Series since 2010. “Our partnership with Volcom has been such an outstanding opportunity for our Clubs,” said Motts. “To work with a company whose brand, mission and values align so closely to ours is truly a blessing. We are so grateful for the support of the entire team at Volcom each year, and we can’t wait to grow our relationship for years to come.” Volcom’s partnership has provided BGCH youth with volunteers for Ocean Sports and Fitness Day, beach clean-ups and other activities, mentorships, career guidance and developmental support, and over $100,000 in funds that provide for programs to ensure our local youth build Great Futures.

DUKE’S WAIKIKI CELEBRATES 22 YEARS Duke’s Waikiki recently celebrated its 22nd anniversary, with legendary watermen and waterwomen, industry notables and community members from around the island gathering to honor the restaurant’s namesake. Named after Olympic medalist and local legend Duke Kahanamoku, the night was full of smiles and genuine aloha. With featured live entertainment by Maunalua, music filled the air and created a very tropical, Hawaiian vibe for attendees. And as by reputation- the food by Duke’s Waikiki was delicious! Mahalo to Mary Lou Foley and Dylan Ching for the gracious Freesurf invite!

Mike Latronic with Dylan Ching and Gabby Makalena at Duke’s Waikiki.

SURF N SEA CELEBRATES 50 YEARS For half a century, Surf N Sea has been Haleiwa’s ocean sports head quarters, offering the best variety in surf and dive gear, ocean tours, lessons and surf apparel. Operating since 1965, Surf N Sea has become locals’ one stop shop and tourists favorite surf store destination. SUP, surf, kayak, dive, fish or swim, whatever the ocean calls you for, you can find it at Surf N Sea. “Surf N Sea has seen everything from hurricanes to 50 foot waves,” says owner Joe Green, as the shop is situated along a semi-private bay in the heart of Haleiwa. Joe and co-owner, Naoko Green, have been running the shop for 33 years. They’ve maintained their 2-story wooden beach building, which was built in 1921 and has since become a recognizable point of interest on the North Shore. “Once condemned by the state, the building was rescued with some hatchet carpentry from the termites who were holding hands to keep it standing,” describes Green. In recognition of 50 years of business, SIMA, the Surf Industry Manufacturers Association, awarded Surf N Sea with the 2015 SIMA Surf Shop Gold Wave Award, which honors US surf shops that have been in business for 50 consecutive years. The inaugural Surf Shop Gold Wave awards were presented on February 12th at SIMA’s Image Award Show at City National Grove of Anaheim in California. Doug Palladini, SIMA’s president, who also serves as vice president and general manager for Vans, Americas region, said it is essential to honor these shops, which have done so much to help build the surf scene. “A surf shop is very influential to its local surf community—the hub of the local surf community, in most cases—and these shops are legendary,” Palladini says. “Long ago, Surf N Sea discovered that giving to the local community comes back tenfold,” says Joe Green. “The shop is a major sponsor of the Menehune Surf Event, Haleiwa International Open, and local schools and foundations.” Surf N Sea is indeed legendary, with 50 years of service on Oahu’s North Shore and a reputation that keeps building. Congratulations to the owners and operators of Haleiwa’s beloved surf and dive shop, and cheers to another 50 years!

50 th Anniversary Party Come Celebrate

Saturday,March 28th Surf N Sea Style -Right in our Backyard!

Enjoy Music - Heavy Pupus Giveaways and Lots of Fun

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THERE”

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NEWS & EVENTS /

SOUTH POINT BEACH CLEANUP Photos & Story By Shawn Pila

It was a beautiful and sunny Friday morning on the southernmost tip of the United States, where over 160 volunteers gathered to participate in the South Point beach cleanup along the Kamaoa Coastline on Big Island. Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i (SCH) joined forces with Hawai’i Wildlife Fund (HWF) and Kona Brewing Company (KBC) on January 23, 2015 to remove debris from Ka Lae to Mahana Green Sands. “The Big Island used to have the dirtiest beaches in all of the United States,” explained Kahi Pacarro, SCH executive director. “Tons and tons of trash travels here from the Great Pacific Garbage Patch thousands of miles away and washes up onto the shorelines like the ones here at South Point.” The remote Kamaoa Coastline is very difficult to access and requires careful 4x4 off-road maneuvering, which makes cleaning and debris removal even more difficult. For the last 12 years, HWF hosted beach cleanups removing a total of 172 tons of marine and land debris along the 10-mile stretch of coastline. This year, volunteers, locals, a few random tourists, and students from Kuleana Education and Kona Pacific Charter School leap-frogged down the coast removing 1,263 cigarette butts and a total of 1,716 pounds of land and marine debris. Within the main Hawaiian Islands, the northeast corners tend to accumulate more marine debris, but because of the trade winds, strong currents 30

and fierce airstreams in the area, the Big Island tends to get hit in the southeast corner, Kamilo Beach in particular. “Kamilo, means the twisting or swirling currents,” explained Megan Lamson, HWF Marine Debris Project Coordinator. “What once used to accumulate driftwood now suffers from tons of trash from around the world.” In ancient times, Native Hawaiians walked the beaches of Kamilo searching for large logs to build dugout canoes. Nowadays, approximately 90% of the debris found in the area is made up of single-use plastics and household products, discarded fishing nets, ropes and buoys, some adrift for hundreds of years. This poses a major threat to land and marine wildlife, especially the endangered Hawaiian monk seal and the hawksbill turtle which nests along the secluded shoreline.

KONA BREWING COMPANY TURNS 21! Kona Brewing Company has announced it is celebrating its 21st birthday in a very Hawaiian way - by giving back to those who made them the success they are today. Creating a special series of small-batch beers that would only be available in its island home, the Makana Series, (which means “to give”) serves as the centerpiece for Kona Brewing Co.’s full year campaign to raise money for non-profit organizations who dedicate themselves to restoring and preserving Hawai’i’s natural resources.

The cleanup teams sorted through truckloads of trash and separated everything that was either recyclable or reusable. Volunteers also collected marine debris for several different artists who will use some of the recycled plastics and bottle caps for making jewelry and art pieces.

The first release in the series, Aina Brown Ale pays tribute to the earth by incorporating Kalo (taro root) into the brewing process. A beer inspired by the earth deserves a non-profit partner who is equally tied to the earth, which makes Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i the perfect partner and worthy recipient of a portion of the proceeds raised from the sale of this limited-edition beer.

Since 2005, HWF has been saving derelict fishing nets and rope for the NOAA “Nets-toEnergy” program. Each year they fill Matson containers with five-to-eight tons of nets that are shipped to Oahu and chopped into pieces suitable for incineration. The material is then

The next three Makana Series launch parties (April, July and October) have not been finalized yet, but more information will be made available about the date, time and location for these events soon!

photo: brent bielmann

www.bodyglove.com

AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL SURF SHOP

NEWS & EVENTS / SOUTH POINT BEACH CLEANUP

burned to create electricity, helping to power the City and County of Honolulu. HWF has also been fortunate enough to work with Recycle Hawai’i and Method Home Cleaning Products. Method piloted an ocean plastic project with Kokua Hawai’i Foundation where they shipped hard-rigid plastics from Hawaiian beaches to California where they are recycled into new plastic soap bottles. The Surfrider Foundation and dozens of other organizations also supported the event and over 60 people flew in from Oahu and outer islands. Organizations include DLNR-DOFAW and Three Mountain Alliance, NOAA’s Ocean Awareness Training Participants, Bureo Skateboards, Aaron Char Art, Nurdle In The Rough Jewelry, HI Kombucha, ‘Ena Media Hawai’i, Tobacco-Free Coalition, Don Elwig and Malama Pono Ka Lae, Tutu and the amazing Ka’u Staff. Rebecca Villegas and Kona Brewing Company were also kind enough to donate free lunches for all participants and local fisherman, along with free VIP tickets to the KBC 21st birthday celebration featuring live performances by The Green. All proceeds from the concert and the newly drafted “Aina Brown Ale” will benefit Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i. A good deed and hard day’s work surely paid off and an awesome group of new friends ended the afternoon with ice cold beer and crazy cliff jumps off the South Point hoist. For more information on how to get involved with future beach cleanups, visit www. sustainablecoastlineshawaii.org and www.wildhawaii.org.

NEWS & EVENTS /

KONA SURF FILM FESTIVAL Photos Meg Haywood-Sullivan

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The 11th Annual Kona Surf Film Festival presented by Altres hosted 1,300 people during its two days of festivities on the Big Island, taking place along the water at the Courtyard Marriott King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Celebrating independent short and feature films from established and emerging surf filmmakers from around the globe, the Kona Surf Film Festival highlights the surfing, art and music community, and this year was the biggest and best yet. Hosting nearly 20 surf films, the movies ranged from documentaries like Jason Baffa’s “Bella Vita” and Crystal and Dave Homcy’s “Beyond the Surface” to Surfline’s “Pipeline and Kelly Slater” and Alex Dephillipo’s “Death to Hipsters”. Attendees also enjoyed art and clothing vendors, live music, local eats, and surprise celebrity attendees. Festival founder Chad Campbell said that 2015 was the most exciting year yet. “I think after a decade plus, people know the festival is going to be a great event with the movies, music and art,” Campbell describes. “The movies obviously draw people in and we had some films from local filmmakers and then international movies as well. Overall I think the fest is pretty well known on the Big Island and it draws people.”

NEWS & EVENTS /

Surfer Ezra Sitt, photographed by Sash Kauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i Fitzsimmons, winners of the 2015 Steep and Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge.

Billy Kemper / Brent Bielmann

Dave Wassel / Zak Noyle

Landon McNamara / Brent Bielmann

Steep & Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge 2015

Mason Ho / Vince Cavateio

For the fourth year in a row, the Steep & Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge showcased photographersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; best images of surfers charging infamous Pipe and Backdoor from this winter season. In memory of legendary Pipe surfer and big-wave charger, Sion Milosky, who was notorious for his steep and deep technique, the annual photo challenge highlights some of the most talented, underrepresented photographers and surfers in the industry. Here are the images that made the top 10, plus the winning photo by Sash Kauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i Fitzsimmons who captured Ezra Sitt in a Pipeline gem.

Tom Dosland / Keoki

Koa Rothman / Zak Noyle

Nathan Florence / Zak Noyle

Reef Mcintosh / Zak Noyle

Koa Rothman / Brent Bielmann

Over 100 ‘warriors’ entered the 2015 Volcom Pipe Pro, but only one would take home the Spartan helmet. Adding a fourth trophy to his collection, John John Florence, 22, claimed victory at the Volcom Pipe Pro on February 2nd, defeating Mason Ho, 26, Kelly Slater, 42, and Sebastian Zietz, 26, in highly technical, 6 to 8 foot conditions at Backdoor. John John’s fourth title in five years, the phenom went home $16,000 richer in cash and 3,000 richer in points, celebrating the well-deserved win in fine fashion with toasts, drinks and dinner at Lei Lei’s at Turtle Bay. John John had the 35-minute Final in the bag within the first seven minutes, posting wave scores of 9.2 and 8.43 for the highest heat score of the entire event — 17.63 out of 20. Florence and Slater had been the pair to beat from the onset of the event, pushing each other round for round and flip-flopping on highest wave and heat scores along the way. “Getting two scores in the beginning of a heat that’s 35 minutes long, you sit for so long,” describes Florence. “Like, oh my God, I’ve got 20 minutes here to just think about it (laughs)!” 25 mph side offshore winds played in favor of Backdoor barrels and aerial opportunities, but also made for challenging wave face conditions throughout the final 35 minutes. Nevertheless, viewers saw technical surfing at its finest, as Mason Ho drew first blood in the final with a beautiful barrel for 8.6 points. Front row spectators at the Banzai Pipeline shimmied up the sand banks to avoid the surges, while John John used his lifetime of local knowledge to read the conditions and rising swell lines with ease. “This morning it was really fun, the wind was pretty clean and just really long, little barrels,” said Florence. “Then the wind picked up and started

Heff

NEWS & EVENTS /

Heff

John John Florence

NEWS & EVENTS / VOLCOM PIPE PRO

putting this chop in it and it made it really, really difficult out there. But it was so fun. It was just whoever was in the spot for the good double ups.” By the end of the heat, Kelly Slater found himself in a rare combo situation, needing two much higher scores than any he was holding to beat Florence. Sebastian Zietz met a similar end, and while Ho found one last tube, he too ultimately fell short of the win with a 7.3. Slater posted the only perfect 10 of the event in the Quarter Final for a super long, deep and weaving barrel ride that looked, to most, like an unmakeable wave. It earned him the “Electric Perfect 10“ Award of the competition. Kelly also won the inaugural Todd Chesser Hard Charger Sportsmanship Award, in honor of a muchloved North Shore big wave rider who passed away charging big waves on Feb. 13, 1997. A big congrats to North Shore’s own, John John Florence!

Kelly Slater

Heff

Eli Olson

Derek Ho

Heff Sean Reilly

Mason Ho in sequence. Photos: Tyler Rock

Latronic

NEWS & EVENTS / VOLCOM PIPE PRO

Sebastian Zietz

FINAL RESULTS: 1st – John John Florence (HAW) 17.63 (9.2, 8.43) – $16,000 – 3000 QS points 2nd – Mason Ho (HAW) 15.9 (8.6, 7.3) – $10,000 – 2250 QS points 3rd – Kelly Slater (Florida, USA) 0.0 (6.7, 2.3) – $4,750 – 1680 QS points 4th – Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 8.47 (7.0, 1.47) – $4,250 – 1580 QS points

Semi Finals: H1: JJ Florence (HAW) 13.4; S Zietz (HAW) 13.33; E Lau (HAW) 12.8; I Walsh (HAW) 7.63 H2: K Slater (USA) 8.76; M Ho (HAW); K Andino (USA) 2.6; M Ohno (JPN) 1.9

Quarter Finals: H1: S Zietz (HAW) 12.1; E Lau (HAW) 10.9; A Aranburu (ESP) 7.9; I Gouveia (BRA) H2: JJ Florence (HAW) 14.83; I Walsh (HAW) 13.2; K David (HAW) 4.47; M Bruneau (HAW) 4.1 H3: K Slater (USA) 17.33; K Andino (USA) 15.1; H Gaskell (HAW) 6.07; B Toth (PRI) 2.7 H4: M Ho (HAW) 8.6; M Ohno (JPN) 6.4; CJ Hobgood (USA) 5.97; K Jaquias (HAW) 5.73

Reilly

Mason Ho still in sequence. Photos: Tyler Rock

HOT SHOTS / FREESURFâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FIVE FAVORITE PHOTOGS

Jamie Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brien

HOT SHOTS /

DANE GRADY Age | 26 Location | Kilauea, Kauai Experience | 7 years shooting Favorite wave | Pipeline and Backdoor Favorite Rig | Canon 7d/70-200 F4 in an Essex Water Housing Known for | Scenics and images of exploding waves Influences | Jon Mozo. Also being around the ocean and taking in all of her moods and characters sparks my creative drive. Motivators | I love going on a mission, physically working to get the image. Also shooting places where no one else is around. Solitude always makes it extra special. Â

HOT SHOTS /

EHITU KEELING Age | 27 Location | Waimea/Kona, Big Island Experience | I’ve been shooting photos ever since I can remember. Favorite wave | Slabs Favorite Rig | Taro Housing with my canon 7d with 15mm wide angle. Known for | My angles and perspectives of surf spots and also just being down for missions. Inspirations | Our Hawaiian culture! And Zak Noyle and Chris Burkard. Motivators | Big heavy, hallow barrels. Also, feeding off of everybody’s energy, especially if the boys are charging! Best thing about being behind the lens | Being rewarded by reviewing the places you’ve been, and seeing how blessed we are to be on this Aina!

CJ Kanuha

HOT SHOTS /

JAKE MAROTE Age | 26 Location | Hilo, Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i Experience | Almost 2 years shooting Favorite Wave | Pipe Favorite Rig | Canon 7D mark ii in a CMT housing with my Tokina 10-17 fisheye. Known for | My Instagram and my account name, @jake_of_all_trades Influences | I first got into photography after my friend Shaun Harada (@2scoopsofaloha) made me an Instagram account. Also Zak Noyle and Chris Burkard. Best thing about being behind the lens | Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taught me to appreciate the little things.

Mikey Bruneau

HOT SHOTS /

KEOKI SAGUIBO Age | 30 Location | North Shore, Oahu Experience | 5 years shooting Favorite wave | Pipeline Favorite Rig | Canon 1DX with a Canon 16-35mm in SPL waterhousings. Known for | Being the guy in the silver helmet in the water blocking shots! This is my apology for past and future instances. Inspirations | Brian Bielmann, Ted Grambeau, Morgan Maassen and Zak Noyle. Motivators | My family will always be my number one motivation. Linking up on a good wave. The feeling of someone appreciating your work. Best thing about being behind the lens | I get barreled more at Pipe then I ever did before. Â

Billy Kemper

APERTURE

Kona Oliveira. Finding gold at the end of the rainbow. Photo: Tony Heff

If you're going to go, go all in. Kawai Lindo, not bluffing. Photo: Brent Bielmann

Kelly Slater, blending in with his surroundings. Photo: Nick Hoermann

Not his first rodeo, Tom Dosland hangs on for a wild 8 second ride. Photo: Laserwolf

WAHINE SPOTLIGHT /

DAX Intro by Lauren Rolland Interview by Finn McGill

Recently seventeen years old (as of March 11th – happy birthday!), Dax Minnow McGill had the North Shore buzzing after a fearless display in double overhead surf during the Sunset Beach Pro Junior event earlier this year. A great indicator of what 2015 holds for this powerhouse athlete, Dax is (at this time of writing) en route to Australia for a WQS and Junior Pro in Manly, and then traveling to the Gold Coast for some free surfing at Snapper. And come mid-March, miss McGill will be back home along the North Shore competing in the Pipeline Women’s Pro. While Freesurf has featured Dax a few times in the past couple years, we figured it was time to get fresh insight on the teen from a totally different perspective, and who better than a loving albeit pesky younger sibling to achieve this? Two years Dax’s junior, Finn McGill is quickly becoming one of the best up-and-coming junior pro surfers from Hawai’i and was recently picked up by Billabong. A dynamic duo, Dax and Finn are some of Hawai’i’s most beloved blonde groms and their surfing careers continue to soar. Read on for a quirky, endearing interview between the siblings, as Finn asks his older sister everything from favorite bands and board models to surf spots, strange travel moments and ideal dinner party guests.

Finn: My name is Finnegan Thunders McGill, I am 14 years of age, I am from the North Shore of Oahu and I am asking my sister a couple questions of my own that I have made up. Dax, how did you get the middle name Minnow? Dax: Should I tell them the true story? My middle name is from my parents, and they gave it to me because they were surfing one day while my mom was pregnant with me, and I guess when my mom stood up on a wave I started freaking out and kicking her and flopping all over the place… I was flopping like a minnow.

Photo: Kenworthy / A-Frame

Rock

WAHINE SPOTLIGHT / DAX MCGILL

Finn: What is your favorite board model?

snowboarding when I end up going.

Dax: My favorite board model by T&C is the new S Series model. It’s a really good board. It goes in all types of conditions, from 4-foot chop in Chile to riding half-a-foot waves in China. The board is really flowy and nice and fast.

Finn: What is your favorite spot to surf in the world?

Finn: Dax, what is your favorite chore?

Dax: I think my favorite spot to surf is Restaurants in Fiji, that’s a pretty amazing wave. But then it’s a close call between Tucky Joe’s in the Maldives because those are pretty amazing waves too. Left barrels, that’s my favorite.

Dax: Having to pick up all your mess.

Finn: How about locally?

Finn: That’s a lie, cuz I don’t have a mess. How fun is your brother to surf with?

Dax: Locally my favorite spots to surf are Rocky Lefts and 4 to 6 foot Pipe.

Dax: My brother is so fun to surf with cuz I end up dropping in on him like every single wave, so I get twice as many waves. So I’d say it’s pretty fun.

Finn: Skirts or shorts?

Finn: Yeah, I would agree with that. I’ve buckled a board from that happening. Dax: Yeah, but I also did rip open my eardrum from dropping in on you one time.

Dax: What kind of question is that? That’s the worst question I’ve ever heard! I like wearing shorts so I can jump on a trampoline if needed. Finn: Who is your favorite band? Dax: The Talking Heads Finn: What is your favorite travel moment?

Finn: Yeah, karma. Do you like snowboarding or skating better? Dax: I don’t snowboard enough, so probably skating. But I love 64

Dax: My favorite travel moment was not too long ago, I was in China with a bunch of friends for the first WQS of the year. We saw a bunch of

HIGH ROA D

Latronic

WAHINE SPOTLIGHT / DAX MCGILL

“...he farts and he stinks and he’s annoying... But other than that, he’s okay.”

people all zumba dancing together, and I was like ‘oh my god that looks so fun’. So me and my friend got the courage to go up and jump in, and we danced with them for like an hour. It was so fun, but they were kind of mad at us.

Finn: I heard that too. If you had a party, and you could invite anyone in the world, who would it be? Dax: Bill Murray, Orion Owens, Dustin Fiero, Ben Seaberry and… you can be the waitress I guess, riding on an alpaca. That would be the best.

Finn: What is your strangest travel moment? Finn: What country will my brother-in-law be from? Dax: My strangest travel moment would have to be when me and Orion Owens went to China and we sneezed in the airport, which is apparently horrible for people to do there, it’s basically like flipping them off. But we did it and everyone within 15 feet of us just scattered, we were like in our own bubble. Finn: I thought that would be more exciting.

Dax: Australia. No doubt about that. FSM: Professionally and personally speaking, Dax and Finn, what are your plans for 2015? Finn: Well my plan is just to sleep, eat, surf, skate, sleep, eat, surf, skate. And eat. And surf.

Dax: What do you mean? Finn: I felt like it was one of those things that you think everyone is going to laugh at, and then no one laughs. But you just kept going on with the story and then you couldn’t find a good ending so… Dax: Those are like all your stories. Finn: Thanks. Is your brother as amazing as everyone says he is? Dax: No, he farts and he stinks and he’s annoying. But other than that, he’s okay.

Dax: My plan for this year is to progress a lot in surfing and just try to have fun, learn new things, meet new people, travel a lot and have fun along the way.

pau

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SHAPING ROOM THE SHAPING ROOM / WITH GEN ASANO By Rae Sojot Photos Cole Yamane

t 17, Gen Asano sat on his family’s townhouse lanai and thought about surfing—more specifically, boards. Originally from California, Gen had moved to Oahu with his mom a few years earlier and loved being in the water, surfing nearly every day with his hanai ohana, the Moniz family. Unlike his friends who procured new boards regularly, Gen made do with older, hand-me-downs. He would often marvel at his friends’ good fortune—their new boards were beautiful and felt so good. And with that thought in mind, Gen unknowingly took a first step on the path Fate had laid out: He would shape a board for himself. For someone with no experience or guidance, shaping a board from scratch can be an almost Sisyphean task. Gen’s quiet determination worked in his favor. With money saved up from working at the Moniz’s Surf School, Gen bought tools and materials and set up a makeshift workshop under the house. YouTube videos became a handy resource. It took forever to make, says Gen, looking back at the experience. The young craftsman employed a steak knife to cut the board’s outline; a low model vibrating sander smoothed the foam down. After working nonstop for what seemed like days, Gen emerged from his workshop, triumphant: He had shaped his first board. Soon after, he eagerly made way to trial the board on a test run in decent 5 to 6 foot surf at Off the Walls. The verdict? It was the worst board I had ever ridden, Gen laughs. Oh, and it broke that day too. Today 20-year-old Gen is part of the new generation of young shapers honing their craft. A fortuitous introduction by his Aunty Tammy (Moniz) led to Gen’s current gig at the Tokoro warehouse. When reminded of the story of Gen’s first shaping attempt, shaper extraordinaire Wade Tokoro chuckles about the steak knife bit. “When I heard about how he shaped his first board, that showed something about him,” says Wade. “He reminded me of how me and Kerry first got started.” For the past two years, Wade and brother Kerry have been mentoring Gen through the in’s and out’s of the shaping world, noting Gen’s work ethic, attention to detail, and ability to observe and learn. “He’s old school,” says Wade. The ‘old school’ mantle suits Gen well, albeit ironically. In a generation where instant gratification and self-glorification is par for the course—Gen stands out from the crowd: He’s reserved. Humble. The anti-thesis to self promotion. As his shaping reputation steadily builds, Gen speaks admiringly of role models like the Tokoro brothers, Eric Arakawa, and others who have paved the way both in the craft’s artistry and viability as a career option for younger shapers like him. While a shot at commercial success would be welcomed, Gen appreciates the deeper, shibumi sort of fulfillment he gleans from creating a beautiful, well-made board. Plus, shares Gen, “There’s no better feeling than having someone ride your board and tell you ‘Wow, that board is good.’”

THE SHAPING ROOM /

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Though first and foremost a surfer, Gen has found a twin passion in shaping, and if the current buzz surrounding him is any indication, we’ll be hearing more and more of him, both in and out of the water. Freesurf recently caught up with Gen to get his take on the shaping industry—what excites him, who inspires him and what’s on the horizon for 2015.

What’s your favorite type of board to shape? I honestly like to shape anything, but regular, standard shortboards tend to be my favorite. Who do you typically shape for? I usually shape for myself and friends… and friends’ friends. Family and friends like the Moniz’s, the Yamakawa’s, the Brand’s, Kaito Kino… so many have supported me 100%. Who in the board building industry do you look up to most?

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I definitely look up to Wade and Kerry Tokoro. They don’t just teach me how to shape; I learn things like how to treat customers, how to work in a business, how to handle challenges, etc. What are your thoughts on hand shaped vs machine cut boards? When you see the boards of Wade and Kerry, Eric Arakawa, Al Merrick,

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THE SHAPING ROOM /

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Matt Biolis, Jon Pyzel and the other ‘greats’, you know they worked hard to get where they are now, shaping thousands of boards before the machine became available. Nowadays most guys use the machine. Some call that cheating but it’s not. The shapers who use machines have probably hand shaped for the majority of their careers. Shapers put time into designing their board models and the machine make the shaper’s life easier by doing the cut. Once it’s out, the shaper finishes the board, finetuning every part. Who is the best surfer out there?

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John John Florence. He rides a Pyzel. Pyzel has been shaping for John for a long time so they can communicate well. Feedback is important to a shaper so that they improve on every board they shape and try out new designs. What’s on the horizon for 2015? Any advice for someone interested in shaping?

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Building boards is a love-what-you-do-do-what-you-love kind of thing—a passion that comes from the heart. You have to put a lot of pride into the equipment. Making a living off of shaping is really hard, but I like to see people happy with my boards. Besides, anything you’re doing can be hard. But as long as you work hard and you really want it, I guarantee you will end up doing what you want to do. For me, doing what you love is the key to life. pau

76-6246 Ali`i Dr. Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740 (808) 326-1771

ELIJAH KAI FOX (@ELIJAH_FOX) By Sean Reilly Hometown: Kapaa, Kauai DOB: May 22, 1999 Height/Weight: 5’10/ 155 lbs. Stance: Regular Favorite Instagram to Follow: @kook_of_the_day Sponsors: Rip Curl, DHD Surfboards, Kreed

N eighbor Island stand out Elijah Fox has been kicking butt and taking names for quite some time now. Dominating the Kauai surf scene from an early age, the 15-year-old regular foot already has a state championship under his belt and in 2014, was nationally recognized at the Rip Curl Grom Search National Final for a critical high-tail air-reverse. The lofty punt earned him a cash prize and the Mophie Maneuver of the event. No doubt about it, this wondergrom radiates talent. But I’m willing to bet Elijah’s results are a better reflection of his hard work and determination. The Kauai grom trains at least three days a week with his surf coach/trainer/Dad. From cross fit routines and kettle bell swings to cleans and jerks in the weight room, Elijah isn’t afraid to break a sweat to get to where he wants to be. But this steadfast surf stud is no one trick pony. When Elijah isn’t making west side surf excursions to the base, he’s winning gold medals with the Kauai Junior Lifeguards and reeling in 120-pound ahi on his buddy’s boat. Finding success in just about anything he puts his mind to, Elijah Fox is worth keeping an eye on.

When did you start competing? I started competing when I was 10 in the local HSF Kauai contests. My first win was in 2009 at the Iron’s Brother’s contest at Hanalei. That was a very memorable experience for me. My American bulldog Coco secretly chewed half of my trophy on the drive home to Kapaa. I still have what’s left of that special trophy. What do you love most about your hometown of Kapaa? There are a lot of good places to eat, places to hike, fish and spear fish. It is green and cool. Everything is really close. I have a lot of good friends here too. When the trades die, and there’s swell, the waves can go off. Would you call Kealia your home break? Yes, Kealia is my home break. I live about a mile up the street from there. I have a love/ hate relationship with Kealia. It is super consistent because of the trades… Always surf, almost always a mess. It’s a lot like a washing machine on the high cycle! Great for training, but I get burnt out of the place. It definitely has its days, though. And the cool thing is, I paddle so much there, it’s like a hamster wheel, that when I go anywhere else it’s easy. But I really like it when I go out and surf the north shore or the west side where it’s clean and organized. I can’t think of a better training wave, though. It seems like most wondergroms are homeschooled these days, do you learn in a classroom or from home? I’m a freshman at Kapaa high school, but I was home schooled in middle school. It’s nice to be in classroom

Morissette / Ripcurl

GROM REPORT /

with other kids my age learning from an actual teacher. Are you surfing less now that you have to be in a classroom? No. I surf before or after school, or sometimes both. From time to time I am late for, or skip, first period PE. My teacher Mr. Takasaki doesn’t roust me too much for it. He is a really cool guy. I missed a few weeks for the Rip Curl camp on Oahu and he’s having me shape a board for the school I missed. I think I’m going to shape a 7’0. It will be my first time shaping. What’s your quiver like? Right now my go to is my 5’11 DHD Duck Nuts round pin or squash tail. My step-ups are a 6’2 duck nuts and 6’6 duck nuts. For smaller waves I like my 5’9 Skeleton Key. I also love to doyle. Those things are so much fun. What is something most people don’t know about you? My family and I go to church every Sunday. I

have an older brother and younger sister. My brother is a ginger, just like the ginger on ‘16 Candles’ and ‘Breakfast Club’. Classic. I have deep redneck roots too. My mom’s family, all in the midwest, squirrel hunt and do weird redneck stuff like that.

Morissette / Ripcurl

GROM REPORT / ELIJAH KAI FOX

Championships in 2013 at Ala Moana Bowls. This past year was cool, I was awarded the Mophie Maneuver twice this year at the Rip Curl events at Kewalos and Upper Trestles. Outside of surfing, do you compete in anything else?

Who do you look up to and why? Of course my mom and dad, they make it all happen for me. My sponsors Rip Curl, DHD and Kreed. I also have so much gratitude for the lifeguards at Kealia. They really keep me in check. Eugene, Kaipo, Garret, Kaleo, Kaeo, Kleve and Dustin. The Hawai’i Surfing Federation crew, and Milo, the contest director, have been so supportive of me it’s crazy. They are like family to me. Also coaches from the Hawai’i Surf Team, Rainos, Kahea and Bert have really helped my surfing. You have had quite a bit of success on the islands, what results are you most proud of? My best surfing results have mostly been the local stuff, number 1 on Kauai for the past 4 years in my division. I won the State

I’ve been fortunate to compete with the Kauai Junior Lifeguards for the past few years. We are state champions for the 11th straight year. This past year I was number one in the state overall with several golds, a silver and a bronze medal. We went to Virginia Beach this past summer and kicked butt with a team of 22, getting something like 50 plus medals. I personally got a gold and silver. The gold was in the paddle, and the silver was in the premier event called the “Iron Guard”. It was an amazing experience. What are your future goals? At the moment to win a Pro Junior event. Eventually to get on tour, be successful and win. pau

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Superior Optics For Superior People

By Lauren Rolland

iving across from Ke Iki beach, the stretch of coastline between Waimea Bay and Rock Piles has become my backyard. The ocean here is known to create drastic coastline changes, so my day-to-day activities adjust with the seasons. During the wintertime, Shark’s Cove is a wind and wave beaten bay, where the waters are whipped to a froth and swimming is an absolute no-go, yet the entertainment at Ke Iki and Waimea shorebreak is like having a 180-degree view of extreme sports on demand. Come summertime, the ocean transitions into a calm playground that attracts locals and visitors, and the myriad of marine life becomes an underwater world within reach.

I explore this shoreline almost every day, and have begun to take notice of the little details. Like a new sign popping up at the Waimea Bay beach entrance, or the Mālama Pūpūkea-Waimea tent that posts up every Saturday at Shark’s Cove, or the fact that no one is seen fishing in the waters surrounding Three Tables. I also realize that given the amount of time I spend in and around these areas, there is still plenty I don’t know about it. This stretch of coast is actually protected as a Marine Life Conservation District (MLCD), which stretches from the Wananapaoa Islets (the two small islands off Waimea Bay’s south side) to Kulalua Point (the flat rocky point that separates Shark’s Cove from Ke Iki beach).

Jenny Yagodich

COMMUNITY / HAWAI’I’S MARINE LIFE CONSERVATION DISTRICTS

In fact, there are eleven MLCDs in the state of Hawai’i: Oahu - Hanauma Bay (101 acres, est. 1967) - Pupukea (over 100 acres, est. 1983) - Waikiki (76 acres, est. 1988) Maui - Manele-Hulopoe (309 acres, est. 1976) - Molokini Shoal (approx. 77 acres, est. 1977) - Honolua-Mokuleia Bay (45 acres, est. 1978) Big Island - Kealakekua Bay (315 acres, est. 1969) - Lapakahi (146 acres, est. 1979) - Waialea Bay (35 acres, est. 1985) - Old Kona Airport (217 acres, est. 1992) - Waiopae Tidepools (est. 2003)

Each MLCD has its own set of rules and regulations, and as Hawai’i’s beach goers and ocean enthusiasts, it is our responsibility to know what they are. We’re currently facing one of the greatest threats of our time – the extinction of ocean creatures and habitats – and as lovers of Hawai’i and its coastline, it’s time we learned and shared the ways we can all help. Which is where the volunteer-based North Shore non-profit Mālama Pūpūkea-Waimea comes into play. Geared toward educating the residents and visitors to the Pūpūkea Marine Life Conservation District about the importance of protecting this area, Mālama Pūpūkea-Waimea works hand-in-hand with the community and government partners to mālama (take care of) the fish, invertebrates, coral reefs and other marine life that call this area home. “We are a very unique organization in a unique community,” explains Jenny Yagodich, North Shore resident, volunteer and Mālama Pūpūkea-Waimea Director of Educational Programs. “We’re a very small, grassroots organization with a pretty specific goal.” The mission is to replenish and sustain the natural and cultural resources of the Pūpūkea and Waimea ahupua‘a for present and future generations through active community stewardship, education and partnerships. After learning about Hawai’i’s various MLCDs, I found myself wondering what the overall purpose was behind creating them. “We’re at a point where we are no longer following a Hawaiian version of resource management,” Jenny describes. What this means is that if we keep going at the rate we’re at (over fishing, destroying coral reefs and not caring for marine life), there will be nothing left to enjoy of Hawai‘i’s underwater world for future generations. Marine Life Conservation Districts rebuild fish stocks, which spill over into the surrounding areas and help maintain healthy fish, coral reefs and other marine life. MLCDs also provide a refuge for marine life to grow and reproduce so that there will be resources for future generations, keeping the fishermen of today happy and the ancient sport of fishing alive and relevant for Hawaiians and locals. “The fish don’t know boundary lines,” says Jenny. “So by creating these MLCDs, we’re helping to increase and restore the natural resources that made traditional Hawaiian culture so sustainable.” “We always say ‘lucky we live Hawai’i’ and one of the things that makes us so lucky is the beauty of our near shore waters,” Jenny continues. “While perfect waves and endless water activities are often highlighted and get most of the attention, it’s truly the amazing underwater scene that deserves a closer look.”

Interesting Tidbits About Hawai’i’s MLCDs • By the 1960s, fish populations dwindled by nearly 75% due to a combination of over-fishing, urbanization and pollution, habitat alteration and near shore activities in Hawai’i. • In 1967, Hawai’i’s first Marine Life Conservation District was created at Hanauma Bay on Oahu. • MLCDs are designed to conserve and replenish marine resources. • It is prohibited to feed fish in some MLCDs, including Hanauma Bay, Molokini Shoal, Kealakekua Bay, Lapakahi, Waialea Bay and Old Kona Airport. • Collecting shells, coral and other souvenirs is prohibited in all MLCDs. • Reef-building coral polyps are small, sensitive animals that are easily killed if stepped on, so please be cautious of where your hands, feet and fins are when swimming and walking through a MLCD. • It’s a good idea to wear felt tabis or shoes when walking along rocky shorelines, to protect the reef and your feet. • Consider switching to ‘reef-friendly’ sunscreens, like Sun Bum or Badger to help protect the reefs and marine life. Many locals and visitors to Hawai’i, surfers included, don’t realize that the reef is what causes waves to break. The intricacies of these reefs create the hollow pits of Pipe, the long lefts and rights of Rockies and the fun and gentles waves of Waikiki. When reefs die from ecosystem imbalance, it crumbles away and thus changes the waves and how they break. Image if Pipeline’s reef eventually died off? Every aspect of the ocean – from the coral polyps to the limu and shells to the reef fish and pelagics – plays a role in balancing the fragile ecosystems of our seas.

Jenny Yagodich

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Since Freesurf’s community playground includes the Pupukea Marine Life Conservation District, here are some other interesting tidbits that pertain directly to its boundary lines.

Things to Know About the Pupukea MLCD • The boundary stretches from the Wananapaoa Islets (the two small islands off Waimea Bay’s south side) to Kulalua Point (the flat rocky point that separates Shark’s Cove from Ke Iki beach), and extends 100 yards out to sea from each point. • Shark’s Cove and Three Tables are “No Take” zones. Fishing for, harvesting or harassing marine life in any way is prohibited. • It is prohibited to possess any fishing tools (spear guns, threeprongs, nets, etc.) in these MLCD waters. Even if you’re just swimming through to get outside of the MLCD! • It is okay to pole fish from the shores of Waimea Bay, but you can only take a finfish (no octopus, lobster, crab, etc.) while using a hook-and-line and each fisherman is only allowed two poles, one line per pole and no more than two hooks per line. • It is prohibited to fish from the small rock islands off Waimea Bay’s southwestern side, the Wananapaoa Islets. • At Waimea Bay, it is okay to net fish for ‘opelu during August and September, and akule during November and December. • It is prohibited to snag akule while fishing from the shoreline of Waimea Bay. • It is permitted to hand-harvest and possess up to two pounds (combined total, squeezed dry) of limu kohu and limu lipe‘epe‘e, provided the limu’s holdfast is left in place. • The tidepools at Shark’s Cove are home to many marine creatures, including a 5+ foot white tip reef shark that hung out in the shallow waters for a month this past winter, and spotted eagle rays that pass in and out from time to time.

Given the do’s and don’t’s of the Pupukea Marine Life Conservation District, and all the other MLCDs in Hawai’i, it’s important to know and understand your rights but also maintain a healthy perspective about it. Just because you can fish from Waimea’s shores doesn’t mean it’s necessarily the right thing to do, especially if you don’t intend to use the fish. “The Hawaiian people were able to manage our fragile resources by imposing strict kapu (rules) that ensured a healthy balance between man and nature,” describes Jenny. “And I would love nothing more than to see these resources replenished enough for our community to go back to a more traditional Hawaiian lifestyle.” Whether you surf, fish, dive or swim, one of the best ways you can help is to simply volunteer your time. Check out Mālama Pūpūkea-Waimea’s website at www.pupukeawaimea.org for MLCD information, to find out how you can volunteer, make a charitable contribution, support the Ka Papa Kai Marine Science for Youth programs, or simply spread the word about protecting our ocean resources! And be sure to check out DLNR’s website (http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dar/) for the full details on all of Hawai’i’s MLCDs. pau

Being a part of Ocean Safety is probably one of the most physically demanding and dangerous jobs in the world, especially if you’re stationed on the North Shore of Oahu. Rescues are a daily constant along the 7-Mile Miracle, with nearly 400 rescues occurring last year alone. In this month’s Damage Control, we feature a dedicated ocean safety expert who risks injury and death to save other people's lives… and it’s all just part of the job description. This is Mikey’s story.

Mikey Bruneau Occupations: Lifeguard, Pro Surfer, Surf Instructor, Surf Coach, Condo Cleaner A ‘Backyard’ Rescue It was last winter, January 2014. The North Shore was pumping 15 to 18ft with strong northwest winds… Crappy conditions, no one in the water anywhere. I was sitting in the tower at Sunset Beach when my friend ran up to me and said, “Someone is getting sucked out in the rip between Phantoms and Backyards.” So my partner and I flew it down there, but didn’t see anybody. Finally I spotted one individual about a half mile out in channel, then we got the report that there were two people. I raced out to the first guy, then started looking for his friend. I spotted him 200 yards away getting sucked into the lefts at giant Backyards. It was about 15ft plus Hawaiian scale, scary stuff. I was genuinely scared, I did not want to be out there at all. I told the guy in the channel to keep paddling in while I went to get his friend because he was

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DAMAGE CONTROL / WITH MIKEY BRUNEAU

about to go into the impact zone. I got to his friend and threw him on the board… he was all stoked. I told him, “We’re not out of the woods yet!” Then a capping 15-footer flooded the horizon. “Paddle!” I screamed. We literally went up to the tip top of the wave and then free fell down the whole back. Any surfer knows that you almost got caught when that happens. Relieved we made it through that one, I look up and see another set. In my mind, I’m thinking, “We have to make it over this!” We paddled our hardest and just barely made it again, it was gnarly. It was like Rocky Point x30. The current was pulling us into the bowl, but I knew we needed to go out because the jet ski was coming. It took a long time though. They rescued the guy in the channel first, and went back in because we were so far out that we couldn’t be seen. Luckily my partner informed him that I was still out there. At this point, we were every bit of one mile out to sea while still going over capping waves. Finally, the jet ski showed up. I threw the kid on the ski, but then the jet ski driver said, “I’ll come back to get you.” So he took the kid in and I was left out there by myself. Thank God Dave Wassel came out to assist me. Which actually isn’t that comforting because Wassel isn’t afraid of anything in the ocean. I looked over to him and asked, “Are we gonna catch a wave in?” He grinned and said, “Hell, I am! I don’t know if you are, but I am!” Right there, Wassel goes and catches the next wave! So I try to catch the next one. I caught it… and It just blew me up, boom! It blew the board away and blew my fins off. So now I’m out there treading water with no equipment or anything. I was kind of scared, but I knew that the jet ski was coming, so I just handled it. Took a few waves on the head before the jet ski came to get me. When I was finally brought in, I talked to the kids for a bit. They were stoked and thankful to be alive.

pau

LIVING PONO WITH HAWAIIAN OLA By Lauren Rolland

he Hawaiian word pono can translate to many words – good, righteous, fair, beneficial, in perfect order… but regardless of the semantics, the meanings are all synonymous for a lifestyle that Freesurf loves and promotes. Eating well, enjoying the ocean, planting a garden or sharing waves are all ways of living pono, and kicking off this month’s feature is a very unique, very righteous grassroots company called Hawaiian Ola. If you haven’t heard of noni, you may be surprised to know that it grows wild all over the Hawaiian Islands. The small, flowering, everbearing green shrub was brought over in 400 A.D. by Polynesian wayfarers because of its variety of uses – medicinally to help deep cuts and wounds, artfully to make yellow, purple and red dyes, and bodily as a digestive aid and to promote healthy skin. While you may not recognize noni in nature, chances are you know the smell, since noni is notoriously pungent, especially in its raw form. So praise the creators of Hawaiian Ola for coming up with a recipe that blends together organic Hawaiian noni and organic fruit juices to create a delicious tasting beverage that is good for the body, inside and out! What makes Hawaiian Ola so beneficial? For surfers and other athletes, the ingredients in Hawaiian Ola not only keep you hydrated and help reduce muscle cramping (any athlete knows the pain of a Charley horse), but they also provide a longer sustaining energy throughout the day (no jitters or crashing) that keeps the blood flowing and the body 86

happy. Rehydrating, cleansing and detoxifying, Hawaiian Ola drinks are anti-inflammatory and great for balancing out high blood pressure and cholesterol. For those of you that rely on energy shots to get you through the day, know that Hawaiian Ola’s Noni Energy shots provide 150mg of organic plant-based caffeine in the form of Yerba Mate and Green Tea, a full serving of Hawaiian noni, plus vitamins B3, B6, B9 and B12. All Hawaiian Ola products also maintain all USDA organic, non-GMO and fair-trade certified ingredients. Big Island junior pro surfer and Hawaiian Ola team rider Uluboi Napeahi has been on the noni kick, saying that he surfs “up to five hours a day minimum, and without Hawaiian Ola I wouldn’t be able to do it.” Ulu continues: “The aftermath of consuming this product has no effect causing laziness or tiredness. Just like anything know your limits. It’s a great burst of energy.” Not only is Hawaiian Ola a refreshing flavor that’s brilliant for your body, but it’s also created for a pono cause. Quite possibly the best attribute of Hawaiian Ola is the mission that gets worked into each and every bottle and can. “The heart of Hawaiian Ola is what drives our genuine interest to improve the landscape for Hawaiian farmers,” describes Naeha Breeland, Hawaiian Ola outreach specialist. “It’s for Hawai’i, and for Hawaiian agriculture.” The mission-based

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company has a very direct goal in mind, and that is to support a thriving Hawaiian environment and economy by empowering local farmers producing organic, responsibly grown crops. Currently, less than 1% of agriculture in Hawai’i is organic. Hawaiian Ola’s whole idea is to cultivate local farmers that promote Hawaiian agriculture, sustainability and organic farming, to create a better lifestyle and future for the islands. Which means every time you support Hawaiian Ola, you’re supporting a healthier practice of farming and agriculture, and a more sustainable Hawai’i. What better way for surfers, watermen and waterwomen to stay healthy inside and out than with noni – the ancient fruit of the Hawaiians? A wonderful source of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, Hawaiian Ola is a pono product that Freesurf is proud to promote. Pick up one of their many flavors at a store near you (Foodland, Whole Foods, Longs, Times Market, Down to Earth, Big Save, Harvest Market and more). One of the greatest superfruits of the world, every part of the noni plant – from the roots to the fruit – is viable in terms of health, wellness and sustainability. As surfers, it’s important to take care of both our body and the land because this ensures personal well-being and a brighter future for the ‘aina. To keep learning, visit hawaiianola.com or pick up a bottle and try the good stuff for yourself.

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SHOOTS / TY INEZ “They say sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good. That’s exactly what happened with this shot. I had just purchased my first 70-200 lens and was new to dslr photography in general. It was huge and the ocean was doing some crazy stuff so I was like a kid in a candy store just firing away. I honestly don’t even remember taking this shot because it was so consistent out there. When I got home and opened up the goods on my computer I knew I had struck gold, a full sequence of this backwash phenomenon.”

INDUSTRY NOTES Dakine announced its partnership with Akimbo Communications to oversee the company’s media relations. Effective immediately, Akimbo will collaborate with the iconic action sports brand to communicate its deep rooted brand stories, new initiatives, and promote its extensive collections of apparel and accessories for snow, surf and bike, technical and lifestyle packs, bags and luggage. HIC proudly announces the opening of a new Maui store location! Conveniently located in historic Lahaina town at The Outlets of Maui, their new shop will feature “Outlet” prices on all the top brands of surf clothing, swimwear and beach gear, like Billabong, Hurley, Quiksilver, Roxy, Volcom, Rip Curl, Dakine, Reef, HIC and more. Sponsor Shuffle: Fin McGill signs with Billabong, Mason Ho is spotted repping Body Glove wetsuits, Jack Freestone inks with Futures Fins and Kaiser Auberlen will surf for food… Clif Bar picks up the North Shore grom. Plus Volcom just welcomed Bali surfer Giada Legati to their Indo team! Kauai ripper Bethany Hamilton and husband Adam Dirks recently announced they have a ‘baby on board’. Bethany has continued to surf throughout the early months of pregnancy, charging Teahupoo and Pipe, and says she plans to surf as long as she can. The baby boy is due early June, and the parents said that they plan to keep the name a secret until he is born. Both Bethany and Adam are very excited about parenthood and appreciate the support they’ve received so far. Vans introduces new Joel Tudor Signature Collection for spring. A mash-up of military, aloha, and all things timeless, Joel Tudor’s signature collection returns this spring, presenting a new selection of lightweight, functional pieces in apparel and a new assortment in surf footwear. ‘Six Weeks of Aloha’. Every winter, the North Shore of Oahu hosts professional surfing’s most prestigious event, the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. For six weeks, surfers from around the world descend upon the North Shore to explore unparalleled wave conditions, and watch surfing’s extraordinary elite compete in the renowned Reef Hawaiian Pro, Vans World Cup of Surfing and the Billabong Pipe Masters contests. But now that we’ve seen the contest footage, and we’ve replayed the heats, it’s time to witness the true essence of surfing during these thrilling six weeks on the island. Vans presents ‘Six Weeks of Aloha’ featuring sessions with Nathan Fletcher, Kelly Slater, John Florence, Mick Fanning, Dane Gudauskas and a long list of World Championship Tour stars and talented local surfers from the revered Hawaiian surf community. Witness a new perspective of the North Shore— heavy waves and wipeouts; contest day title races and lay day dream 92

sessions—in never before seen footage of surfing icons, talented locals and Hawaiian legends. This is the story of the 2014 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Check out the full-length feature on offthewall.tv, which launched live this past February 16. Slater bought FireWire. Kelly Slater recently purchased a majority share in the surfboard company, Firewire, with the plan of turning it into an eco-friendly surfboard company that incorporates all of the best shapers in the world. “It’s nothing definite until it’s finished and it’s a work in progress,” Slater told Stab magazine. “But surfboards are a tricky business… I just think it’s time to do something about my residue that’s built up. The industry focus has been on perfecting the shapes and performance of what we are all used to for a long while now. I’m fond of tinkering and experimenting and evolving. Lessening materials impact is an obligation for me. So… my partners and I are working on something.” In other Slater news, the 11x world champion has also partnered with PBteen, part of WilliamsSonoma, to design a collection of more than 40 pieces of furnishings with a sustainable theme. The line includes furniture built with FSC certified wood, organic cotton bedding and rugs constructed of recycled fabrics. The Kelly Slater for PBteen collection will launch on PBteen.com in early April 2015. “I’m really excited to be working with PBteen on this project,” said Slater in a press release. “While they’re not part of the endemic surf market, I’m honored that PBteen has seen me as someone who can help a broader audience understand the need to use recycled, repurposed and organic materials.” Remake rumors put ‘Point Break’ in cinemas next Christmas. The release of ‘Point Break’ has been pushed back from it’s July summer release and the public will now have to wait for next Christmas before watching the stunt-double cameo appearances from surfers like Laird Hamilton, Ian Walsh, Albee Layer, Makua Rothman, Bruce Irons, Billy Kemper and Ahanu Tson-Dru. There is an approximately 50-60% chance of El Niño within the late Northern Hemisphere winter and early spring, with ENSO-neutral slightly favored thereafter. Equatorial sea surface temperatures (SST) remained above average in the western and central Pacific during January 2015 and cooled across the eastern Pacific. National Geographic spent a month in Makaha and on the North Shore of Oahu studying Hawaiian and surf culture. The piece focuses on the Hawaiian surfing community and discusses how surfing binds Hawaiians to a cultural identity. The piece also features stunning images of Makaha residents by photographer Paul Nicklen. Published in the February issue of National Geographic, you can find it online at ngm.nationalgeographic. com/featurehub.

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On Saturday January 31, Surfrider Foundation and the Coalition for a Tobacco-Free Hawai`i conducted four simultaneous beach clean-ups on Oahu (Ewa), Kauai (Anahola), and the Big Island (Kona and Hilo). Over 360 volunteers across the state collected and took a tally of the most littered items on Hawai`i’s beaches.

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Vans and surf team rider Leila Hurst partner to launch a new women’s surf footwear collection this spring. Drawing inspiration from the essence of the sea, Leila designed her signature capsule in a custom shade of blue, mirroring a visage of clear ocean waters. Subtle orange accents and hand-drawn geometric patterns complement each style throughout the line, capturing the fun ambiance of Leila’s style and personality.

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“We collected over 15,000 cigarette butts along with 3,426 pieces of plastic and 1,386 pieces of foam from four beaches,” said Stuart Coleman, Hawai`i Coordinator for the Surfrider Foundation. “Cigarette butts, plastic, and expanded polystyrene foam are among the most littered items in Hawai`i and the world.” HIC had their Grand Opening at Outlets of Maui. On February 14th, Hawaiian Island Creations (HIC) celebrated the grand opening of its newest location at The Outlets of Maui in Lahaina. Although the Valentine’s Day weather was pretty sour with strong Kona winds and heavy rain, it turned out to be a sweet start for HIC’s fourteenth location in the islands and third store on Maui. The day began with a traditional Hawaiian blessing and then the doors were opened to welcome a large crowd of kamaaina and visitors eager to take advantage of some killer surf deals, free giveaways and autographed posters. A bevy of pros were on hand, including Albee Layer, Matt Meola and Kain Daly from Dakine; Joel Centeio, Kai Barger and Logan Bediamol from Hurley; and Gavin Beschen, Imaikalani Devault and Tai Vandyke from Volcom. The HIC Surf Outlet will feature discount prices on all the top brands of surf clothing, swimwear and beach gear, like Billabong, Hurley, Quiksilver, Roxy, Volcom, Rip Curl, Dakine, Reef, HIC and more. Drop in and enjoy the ride!

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LAST LOOK

Mark Matthews. In the eye of the storm at Peahi. Photo Matteo Casadio