V 1 2
What Groms?!
# 4
18 and under issue
F R E E I n
Jackson Bunch | Photo: Tai Vandyke
H a w a i ’ i
Guest Editors: Ulu Napeahi and Mainei Kinimaka
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Peer Poll
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Aperture
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Hawai’i’i Junior Lifeguards
HURLEY.COM
KOA ROTHMAN
JOSH MONIZ M A I N S TAY
FREE PARKING
You could hardly call Ulu Napeahi a grom. But at 18 years young, he has just as much vibrancy and enthusiasm for surfing as a kid half his age. The perpetually happy Big Island native, better known as Uluboi, seems to have figured things out sooner than most… But his contagious smile, playful spirit and humble heart claim evidence that he’s not losing hold of that youthful spark that makes us all ‘groms’ at heart. Photo: Brent Bielmann
Heff
COVER STORY
By Tai Vandyke It was actually a pretty flat day around the whole island, but Jason Shibata was picking up little Jackson Bunch from Maui, so I picked up Keanu Taylor from his house on the North Shore. We all headed out to try and get some grom shots. After searching for some waves for a while, we ended up around the corner from Sandy Beach… with nobody else out. So Jackson, Anu and Reo Inaba took turns launching. I was stoked to get this sequence, and sent it to Freesurf’s photo editor right away, but I wasn’t expecting to get the cover. I am really happy for Jackson, he is such a good kid! And very talented as well. I’m claiming him as one of the best under 12 surfers in the world! We will be seeing a lot more of Jackson Bunch in the future.
pau
AMPLIFIRE The Amplifire Model evolved from Eric Arakawa’s popular K4 design that was modified for Joel Centeio. The tail rocker is slightly more relaxed than the K4 and the concave is amplified through the mid-section of the board. This increases forward lift for more front foot acceleration and speed. The position and shape of the concave creates better grip and drive through bottom turns with more speed heading into the lip and beyond. The Amplifire is a great high-performance short board for intermediate to advanced skilled surfers. Tail shapes: Squash, Thumb, Round Pin and Swallow.
Superior Performance
Introducing HIC Footwear
BANDIT The Bandit breaks all the rules as to what type of waves a mini-board can be ridden in. Designed to be ridden 3-6” shorter than your everyday shortboard, the Bandit catches waves easily and grovels well in small mushy conditions. However, this design should not to be regarded as a groveler only, it is a high performance shortboard in a mini-board disguise. It’s fast and loose. It squirts through flat sections and powers through the pocket. The Bandit is a barrel of fun and plenty of fun in the barrel. Add one to your Spring quiver, and you may find yourself riding it all year long.
KAPENA
Tail shapes: Squash, Bat Tail and Swallow.
KONA
BOOSTER Eric Arakawa’s Booster Model is designed to provide exceptional front foot drive combined with quick directional changes on the wave’s face. The semi-full outline provides added stability under foot, even when surfing beyond the lip. This design really excels in small surf, as well as a variety of other wave types and conditions. If you need one board that can take you from small-wave groveling to high-performance surfing on those better days - this is that one board. Rated: FF for Fun and Fast! Tail Shapes: Squash, Thumb, Swallow and Diamond.
KIMO
With over 20 different Eric Arakawa models to choose from, HIC’s got the right board to take your surfing to the next level.
Ala Moana Center Street Level 1, Mauka
808-973-6780
www.hicsurf.com
TABLE OF C ONT ENT S
departments
10 12 18 20
free parking
36
old but gold
38
the shaping room
40
damage control
72
most likely to…
80
wahine spotlight
82 86 92
cover story editor’s note news & events
major throwbacks
get to know chaz kinoshita
junior lifeguards to the rescue
freesurf’s picks
kauai’s gabriela bryan
fit for surf get your gi on
community to homeschool or not to homeschool
shoots youthful perspective
94
industry notes
96
last look
the happs
features
44 58 70
what grom? who you calling grom
aperture youth takeover
peer poll what makes ‘em froth
Model: Chelsea Yamase | Photo: Jake Marote
Tai Vandyke
14TH ANNUAL
MAY 2ND 2015
Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher / Editor Lauren Rolland Guest Editors Mainei Kinimaka and Ulu Napeahi Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic
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EDITOR’S NOTE
As I write this, I’m sitting on the deck of a coastal New Zealand home, watching perfect lefts stretch across the enormity of Raglan Bay. I’m thousands of miles from home, yet I feel as comfortable here as I would on my own porch in little Anahola. I had to stop and question why, how can that be? How can one feel so comfortable in a country they’ve never been before? I’ve come to the conclusion that the ocean is my home. Being a grom and growing up on the beach, surfers learn to love the sea and all it offers. That’s the legacy of being raised as a grom in Hawai’i, a unique upbringing that ties you to the ocean for the rest of your life. The life of a Hawai’i’i grom is extremely unique because we have been immersed in the surf culture from our earliest days. I believe we’re some of the luckiest people on earth. The sport of surfing is so important because, as groms, we can go anywhere in the world and find solitude in the crashing waves on the shore. We’re given the opportunity to see the world through an entirely remarkable perspective. Now that I’m sixteen years old, I’m beginning to lose my title as a grom. It’s exciting to watch upcoming kids catch their first wave, or pull a move for the first time. It makes me think back to my early days of surfing and realize how far I’ve come. Without the support of my family, sponsors, and countless friends I’ve met along the way, nothing I’ve experienced in my grom days would be the same. I would’ve never imagined being given the awesome chance to be the guest editor for Freesurf. I’ve had an amazing experience helping out with this issue, and I’m so grateful for the opportunity. - Mainei Kinimaka, guest editor
Bryce Johnson
EDITORS’
Being a grom, growing up in Hawai’i’i was a blessing amongst many. I was given the privilege to learn and understand the true meaning of respect and aloha. For me, surfing is a form of art, it is my passion. Surfing has also given me so many blessings throughout my life, like the network of friends that is priceless, and the education I’ve obtained along my journey. It’s all amazing. Basically, surfing is everything to me. The lifestyle of being a grom is unique because a lot of it is pure innocence. Having fun with friends, making as much noise as you possibly can, and enjoying all that Hawai’i’i has to offer. It’s so great! I am super thankful to be a grom born and raised in Hawai’i’i. To me, it’s funny because I believe at heart we are all still groms, even the elders, because we all froth to surf no matter what our age. That being said I am eighteen years of age, I’ve been surfing my heart out, and having a wonderful time. I am totally convinced that I will be a grom forever. But it’s come my time where I have something to prove to myself and I choose to take this step into manhood humbled by the experience and lessons I have learned. Throughout it all, I will always keep at heart the stoked grom that I am. - Uluboi Napeahi, guest editor
Tony Heff
NOTE
Allen Mozo / Ahui
NEWS & EVENTS /
Jamie O and crew charge fearlessly and race a mountain of water on a sup squatch.
BUFFALO’S BIG BOARD SURFING CLASSIC By Sean Reilly In 1976, the world-renowned Hokulea set sail on its maiden voyage of cultural rediscovery to the island of Tahiti. A key element to the Hokulea’s success was Richard “Buffalo” Kalolo’okalani Keaulana, the double-hulled canoe’s steersman. After enduring 35 days of rough seas, Buffalo emerged tested and toughened with a new sense of Hawaiian culture and self worth. The Waianae waterman wanted to do something to give back to his community and perpetuate his culture, thus Buffalo’s Big Board Surfing Classic was born. The Classic became a collective expression of giving back to the community and for nearly 40 years has flourished under Buffalo’s sense of what’s right. “I wanted something for the old-timers to enjoy,” says Buffalo. “Something to bring out those who don’t usually surf in contests, something that doesn’t rely so heavily on judgment calls, something that uses big boards, and something that is fun.” Every year, hundreds of surf enthusiasts, handfuls of prominent elders, and a multitude of Hawaii’s hottest pro surfers gather along Makaha’s shoreline to celebrate Buffalo’s dream. This year was certainly no different. The 39th annual BBBSC was a huge success and good fun for all who attended. The five-day long surfing bonanza ran for two consecutive weekends in February - the 14th, 15th & 16th, and the 21st & 22nd.
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Truly a one-of-a-kind event, the BBBSC is unlike conventional surf competitions where the highest scoring rides are awarded to high performance turns and critical maneuvers. Instead, contestants in Buff’s Big Board Classic are judged based upon a list of 14 tricks and length of ride. The list of tricks grows every year and were all founded upon the style of Buffalo Keaulana. You may find some of the same maneuvers like “Hanging Ten” and the “Cheater Five” in competitive longboarding. However, you certainly won’t find maneuvers like the “Dead Cockroach,” the “Allen Wrench” and the “King’s Stance” anywhere else. Unconventional judging and quirky maneuvers aren’t the only things that make Buff’s Big Board Classic so unique. The BBBSC also features surf vessels that you will not find in your everyday surf comp. Buffalo set out to revive forms of surfing that had almost died out by creating divisions like Papio board (similar to a body board but skinnier and made out of wood), Alaia board (skegless wood replicas of boards used by commoners during the Hawaiian Monarchy), and tandem surfing. Combining tradition with innovation, Buffalo also included divisions like Sup Squatch (an inflatable 6-person stand up paddle board), and Bully board (an oversized body board that resembles a surf ski rescue sled). With hundreds of entries, 14 divisions, and epic surf, Buffalo’s Big Board Surfing Classic has become a Hawaiian tradition that continues to grow and prosper year after year.
KAISER AUBERLEN
PHOTO COOLSURF
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NEWS & EVENTS /
Reilly
NSSA HAWAIIAN REGIONAL CHAMPIONSHIPS PRESENTED BY MAD LOVE
Kewalos was buzzing with young rippers the week of March 16, as groms from all islands gathered to compete for the Hawai’i’i Regional title at the 2015 NSSA Hawaiian Regional Championships Presented by Mad Love. Sunny skies made for a comfortable three days while coaches and parents posted up on the grassy area and under tents. Waves in the 1 to 2ft. range with occasional 3-footers were on tap for some serious hacks and punts during the Finals. The surfers, supporters and sponsors were in good spirits throughout the event, while
North Shore shaper and guest announcer Joe DeMarco's voice echoed throughout the park to add enthusiasm. Delicious food was handed out free to all competitors, and all groms went home with plenty prizes and a smile from ear to ear. The NSSA is one of the few national youth sports organizations that require its participants to maintain academic standards in order to compete. Since 1978, the NSSA program philosophy has been that athletics and scholastics go hand in hand. More than 80 NSSA events are run nationwide that culminate with the annual National Championships which is regarded as the highest profile youth surfing event in America. A big congratulations to all the competitors and winners! The NSSA Regional Championships is a great indicator of the talent that's erupting from Hawai’i’i, and the bright future of surfing. For the full list of results and photo gallery go to freesurfmagazine.com.
Division Winners Open Mens - Seth Moniz Open Women - Brisa Hennessy Open Jrs - Barron Mamiya Open Boys - Robert Grilho Open Girls - Sara Wakita Open Mini Groms - Keanu Taylor Open Longboard - Kelta O'Rouke Explorer Mens - Elijah Gates Explorer Jrs - Imai deVault Explorer Womens - Brisa Hennessy Explorer Boys - Barron Mamiya Explorer Girls - Summer Macedo Explorer Menehunes - Robert Grilho Explorer Super Groms - Diego Ferri Explorer Womens Longboard - Kelta O'Rouke Explorer Mens SUP - Ty Simpson-Kane Explorer Womens SUP - Lara Claydon Explorer Senior - Keith Miura Explorer Super Senior - Raymond Shito Explorer Duke - Raymond Shito Airshow - Seth Moniz Freddy P's Golden Ticket - Axel Rosenblad
Heff
PIPE WARRIORS By Tyler Rock In late February, North Shore kingpin Eddie Rothman helped coordinate his second event undertaking of the year at the infamous Pipeline. As a follow up to the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout held in January, the Pipeline Warriors event boasted a field of local and underground chargers ready to tackle both Pipe and Backdoor. “The main focus of the creation of the event was to give the majority of other surfers who aren’t sponsored by the big corporate companies an opportunity to compete at Pipe and win some cash,” explains Mahina Chillingworth, VP of Da Hui. “We did keep a few of our corporate company riders in our event (Jamie O, Koa & Makua Rothman, etc.) to have their representation to balance it out.” The three-day event saw waves from shifty and difficult 6 to 8ft on the first day, down to perfect peaky 2 to 4ft on the last day. Throughout the three days, surfers had a total of six rounds of four-man heats to accumulate their two highest scored waves (on a 0-12 point scale) to go toward their overall total. The first day of competition saw the one and only Jamie O’Brien lock into some excellent scoring waves to put down an early lead in the points total. Micah Moniz also navigated a tricky Backdoor wave for a top score, putting him in the ranks. By the last day, the scores would shift, but Jamie stayed strong in the lead. In the last two rounds, North Shore standout Mason Ho was tagged in taking his father Mike Ho’s spot after returning just in time from a trip to Australia. Mason was able to find a couple very long Backdoor tubes to push himself into second place behind Jamie for the final result. The organizers were pleased with how the event turned out, and happy
Mason Ho
to give Hawai’i’i surfers their due time and opportunity to compete at the premiere venue of Pipeline. “Contest Directors, Eddie Rothman and Liam McNamara, created the format that every heat winner won $500,” says Mahina. “This gave all competitors a chance to win cash before the final round! Da Boys were stoked, which was the soul purpose of this event. We also had a bodysurfing division (won by Mark Cunningham), and a body boarding division (won by Pierre Louis Costes).” Pipe Warriors Final Results 1st – Jamie O'Brien, $10,000 2nd – Mason Ho, $5,000 3rd – Bruce Irons, $4,000 4th – Gavin Beschen, $3,000 5th – Brandon Kuakini, $2,000 6th – Kamalei Alexander, $1,000
NEWS & EVENTS / Day one saw clean conditions with waves in the 3 to 5ft. range. The local Maui kids were shredding it up, with a lot of great rides caught all throughout the day. The level of surfing was extremely high, as each competitor hoped to be crowned with the prestigious title, the Legends of the Bay champion. At the end of Day one, it was Ocean Macedo that ended up winning the Boys U18 division, Cody Young in the Boys U14 division, Savannah Store in the Girls U14 division, Eli Hanneman in the Boys U12-13 division and Keanu Tayor in the Boys U12 division.
HONOLUA SURF CO. PRESENTS LEGENDS OF THE BAY By Kiva Rivers For over two decades now, Honolua Surf Company has hosted the Legends of the Bay surf contest at Honolua Bay. It’s an incredible opportunity for Maui’s local athletes to surf in a heat at Honolua Bay with only a few other surfers in the water, giving all of the competitors a chance to showcase their skill. This contest takes a lot of coordinated efforts, and without the help of our community, would not be what it is today. The two-day event is the closing contest of the season for the Maui Surf Ohana/HSA and it was certainly a great ending! Honolua Bay greeted us with great waves on both days.
Day two of the surf contest went off, with a bigger day of waves in the 10 to 12ft. range. Again, some of Maui’s best surfers were on-hand to compete for the win. The waves were super fun and consistent, allowing for great tube rides along with some incredible maneuvers. At the end of Day two, it ended up being local boy Kea Espiritu who won the highly contested Open Mens Division against some of Maui’s biggest up and coming surfing talents. Aloha Lopez won the action packed final of the Open Womens Division, Zane Schweitzer took out the other competitors to win the Open Longboard division and local surfboard shaper Matt Kinoshita won the Legends division. Thank you to Honolua Surf Company, the event’s main sponsor, for providing the competitors with bags of prizes! Duke’s Beach House and TS Restaurants handed out gift certificates to the top 3 winners of every heat too. All in all, it was an epic day of competition at Honolua Bay! Mahalo to the sponsors of Legends of the Bay; Honolua Surf Company, DaKine, Duke’s Beach House, Pakaloha, HSA, TS Restaurants, Schweitzer Sports, Pitzer Built, Beach Park, Maui Surf Ohana, Windmills, Mama’s Fish House and Duck.
Legends of the Bay 2015 Results Boys 12 -13 1st: Eli Hanneman 2nd: Ocean Macedo 3rd: Cole Alves 4th: Axel Rosenbald Boys 12 and Under 1st: Keanu Taylor 2nd: Jackson Bunch 3rd: Kai Luna 4th: Levi Young Boys Under 14 1st: Cody Young 2nd: Logan Bediamol 3rd: Conan Gentil 4th: Dante Silva
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Girls Under 14 1st: Savannah Stone 2nd: Tatiano Ebro 3rd: Sinjan Boys U18 1st: Ocean Macedo 2nd: Eli Hanneman 3rd: Cole Alves 4th: Ty Simpson Boys 16-17 1st: Imaikalani deVault 2nd: Kelson Lau 3rd: Kala Willard 4th: Khristen Olsen
Body Board 1st: Kaimi Lewis 2nd: Mack Krilley 3rd: Elijah Welch 4th: Luke Coach 5th: Dylan Lee Long Board 1st: Zane Schwitzer 2nd: Mau Ah Hee 3rd: Dino Miranda 4th: Rachel Graham
Legends 1st: Matt Kinoshita 2nd: Mark Anderson 3rd: Buzzy Kerbox 4th: Dino Miranada Open Women 1st: Aloha Lopez 2nd: Rachel Graham 3rd: Summer Macedo 4th: Kayla Yamada Open Men 1st: Kea Espiritu 2nd: Joao Marco 3rd: Ian Gentil 4th: Randy Welch 5th: Imaikalani deVault 6th: Luke Adolfson
Ali Kaukas Kate Harris
Kiana Flores
NEWS & EVENTS /
WANDERLUST OAHU Yogis and yoginis from around the world snapped on their most colorful yoga pants and gathered for the third year in a row at Oahu’s Turtle Bay Resort for Wanderlust. One of the biggest yoga festivals in the nation, Wanderlust spanned over four days and offered attendees an abundance of outdoor activity, local culture and yoga practice from both local and national teachers. Beginning on Thursday, February 26 and lasting through March 1, the resort buzzed with yoga enthusiasts by day, with classes like standup paddleboard yoga, aerial yoga, eco-kayaking, Kawela culture walks, writing, slackline, nature runs, SUPing, surfing and more. By night, the resort transformed into a lively music venue, where artists like Roothub, Nahko and Medicine for the People, and Brett Dennen performed under the stars at Kuilima Point. Freesurf’s editor joined in the yoga and music fun, and wanted to give a special thanks to the people who made her Saturday night at Wanderlust exclusively special: Mahalo to Tala the backstage bouncer, Kristina Jackson for the drinks and dances, and to Brett Dennen for the casual convo about Santa Cruz, SF and surfing.
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It’s third year hosted by Turtle Bay, Wanderlust featured pop-up tents from local companies like Beet Box Café, Hawaiian Fresh Farms and Lily Lotus, plus a beauty bar with the heavenly scents of Hawaiian Bath & Body, where guests could enjoy a quick massage and refresh after a rigorous day of yoga in the sun. Recycling and trash receptacles were provided by Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i’i, along with a beach cleanup on Sunday morning, plus guests got to sip on Longboard Lager and Big Wave Golden Ale provided by Kona Brewing Co. during happy hour at the pool. Check out wanderlust.com for more info on upcoming events or to purchase tickets for next year’s yoga festival along Oahu’s fabled North Shore.
NEWS & EVENTS /
HSF KAUAI – UP & COMING YOUTH SURFERS COMPETE AT KEALIA BEACH Photos and words by Kresta Painter The 4th and final Hawai’i’i Surf Federation contest on March 8, 2015 at Kealia Beach offered young surfers on Kauai their last chance to qualify for the Invitational State Championship. As the 4 to 6ft. waves rolled in, kids as young as 7 charged through their individual heats hoping to be 1 of 6 who will be invited to compete with other top surfers from neighboring islands. The Hawai’i’i Surfing Association (HSA) event will take place April 23-26 at Ala Moana Bowls on Oahu. One of the competition standouts appeared in the form of a spunky and strong Gabriela Bryan who dominated with the grace and agility most adult surfers can only dream about. Without a doubt, the up and coming surfers of Kauai are surely a force to be contended with. Including Kai McIntyre, who also stepped it up a notch with a strong performance and creative skill. A special nod is given to the families, friends, coaches, local surf shops, community businesses, and HSF-Kauai founder Nelson Togioka, for supporting youth surfing on Kauai and making these events happen.
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NEWS & EVENTS /
KORE VALUES – MAKING MAGIC HAPPEN AT HANALEI BAY Words and photos by Kresta Painter Kauai Ocean Recreation Experience, or KORE, is a truly dedicated grassroots organization helping the Garden Island residents and their families with special needs and/or physical challenges gain access to the water. With over 400 participants and professionally trained volunteers, it is easy to imagine why the one-Saturday-a-month event at Black Pot Beach in Hanalei Bay casts an ocean spell on everyone who attends. A passionate team of water loving KORE volunteers create events focused on the pure stoke of the ocean and catching waves. When you add in the healing power of water and the value of being an integral part of the community, the KORE mission makes magic happen.
Courtesy Keli Campbell
A big mahalo to Fire Captain Kurt Leong for managing the scene, and the Waffle Iron Maidens for offering up their fabulous waffles to the crowd. Contact KORE for more information: www.kauaikore.com.
TOMBOMB WAHINE CLASSIC 2015 By Keli Campbell The Tombomb Wahine Classic 2015, held on Saturday, February 28 at Kohanaiki, Big Island proved to be the year of the tween; once word spread that the team-based event focused more on fun than form, and more on teamwork than cutthroat competition, registration filled up with women ages 7 to 62. The majority of contestants were under 15 years old, so the few seasoned aunties acted as team captains, encouraging the younger girls to work together and to keep our beaches clean. While the surf rolled in at waist high, it proved to be a perfect playground for headstands, board hops, mini off-the-lips, and tiny tubes. Mahalo to everyone who helped continue our goal of encouraging women to get in the water, work together, and protect our beaches!
Sunshine Sisters (LtoR: Feather DiMarco, Rumor Butts, Maina Villegas, Sophia Carlucci, Loke McMichael)
1st Place – O KE KAI WAHINE Malaika Bishaw - 13 Kendra DeArco - 11 Simmy McMichael - 62 Kona Resetnikov - 12 Chloe Smith – 15 MEN’S BIKINI DIVISION 2015 Winner: Finnegan Morton
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2nd Place – 5 SHADES OF RADNESS Psalm Brough -11 Trinity Klawansky - 15 Kristin Hudson -28 Colby Hardie -12 Sydney Wiernicki - 11
3rd Place – SUNSHINE SISTERS Feather DiMarco - 39 Rumor Butts - 11 Maiana Villegas - 15 Sophia Carlucci - 8 Lokelani McMichael – 36
LELE HI Sponsored Aloha Spirit Team – MERMAID MADNESS Alana Akaka - 20 Skyler Hudson - 15 Jenny Kalmbach - 31 Maya Maki - 8 Mehana Spencer - 12
SEVENTH ANNUAL
MAY 1-3, 2015
MAUI, HAWAII
$15,000 PRIZE PURSE SUP, OC1 & OC2 RACES / LUAU, HULA, & LIVE MUSIC ‘OHANA FUN PADDLE / SUP BOARD DEMO DAY A CELEBRATION
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NEWS & EVENTS /
MAKUA ROTHMAN WINS BIG WAVE WORLD TOUR TITLE The Big Wave World Tour’s Northern Hemisphere season came to a close on February 28 this year. Six stops made up the competition – South Africa, Peru, Chile, Spain, Jaws and Mexico – but only 2 of them actually ran, with Big Wave Commissioner Pete Mel upholding the prestige and standard of 20ft. minimum wave height. B IG IS L AN D PRO SU R FE R
Jimmy Ulualoha Napeahi
Makuakai Rothman, North Shore’s own, competed on the Tour as a wildcard, and began the season in fine form by winning the first event at Pico Alto in Peru. Backing that up with a runner-up at Punta Galea in Spain, all eyes were fixed on Jaws, but lack of quality swell prevented the event from capping off the tour. As of midnight on February 28th, the BWWT season officially closed and Makua Rothman remained atop the ratings with a massive margin over runner-up Gabriel Villaran. A big congrats to Makua for taking home the title, which he will officially be crowned with during the WSL Big Wave Awards in May 2015. "I feel amazing to be the WSL Big Wave Champion, it's a dream come true,” describes Makua. “I wasn't invited to all events, and here I am, the world champion this year as a wildcard! It took a lot of determination and hard work, and I came out victorious. It's probably the best feeling in the world to be a world champion." 2014/2015 Big Wave Tour Final Rankings 1. Makuakai Rothman, 20833 2. Gabriel Villaran, 13021 3. Nic Lamb, 11851 4. Shawn Dollar, 11750 5. Anthony Tashnick, 11287 6. Greg Long, 7156 7. Nathan Fletcher, 6944 8. Grant Baker, 6232 9. Natxo Gonzalez, 4823 10. Patrick Gudauskas, 4019
NEWS & EVENTS /
Benji Brand
Josh Moniz
Josh Moniz
Seth Moniz
PIPE PRO JUNIOR – MARCH 16-27, 2015 Words by Tyler Rock | Photos by Sean Reilly The WSL Men’s Pro Junior tour Stop No. 7 set up shop on the beach at Pipeline, where a 64-man field battled for up to 1,000 points, a $5,000 prize purse, and of course, bragging rights at one of surfing’s most renowned breaks. With tricky conditions in the head high to slightly overhead range, the Pipe Pro Junior began on Friday, March 20th during the Pipeline Womens Pro.
As the timer reached 1 minute remaining, Benji started the obligatory tactic of sitting on his friend Josh, who only needed a 4-point ride to regain the lead. Breaking away with 10 seconds remaining, Josh stroked into a Pipe left, pumped down the line and boosted a huge backside full rotation air, sticking the landing and claiming the guaranteed score to take the win.
Making it to the final, Moniz brothers Seth and Josh joined close friend Benji Brand and Basque surfer Natxo Gonzalez for an exciting finish to the two-day event. Last year’s winner, Seth Moniz was unable to find two high scoring waves and settled for fourth behind Natxo who utilized his powerful backhand hook on the rights at Backdoor to finish in a respectable third place for his first Hawai’i Junior event showing.
Final Results
But the real excitement came with the battle between Josh Moniz and Benji Brand. Starting the final off with a 9.8 - the event’s highest score Josh was in the driver’s seat. But the 18-year-old still needed to secure a decent backup score to put the pressure on. As the heat progressed, Benji kept busy posting two scores in the 7-point range, taking the lead over Josh who still struggled to find a good backup.
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1st Josh Moniz (HAW), 16.80 pts, $2,000 2nd Benji Brand (HAW), 14.40 pts, $900 3rd Natxo Gonzalez (EUK), 8.60 pts, $600 4th Seth Moniz (HAW), 6.05 pts, $500
Jamila Starr
Melanie Bartels
Keala Kennely
BRAZILIAN SHOW ROOM PRESENTS SURF N SEA PIPELINE WOMENS PRO Words by Lauren Rolland | Photos by Mike Latronic A talented field of 32 surfers tackled the infamous waves of Pipeline during one of the most coveted womens events in Hawai’i’i, Stop No. 5 on the Women’s 2015 WSL Qualification Series. Brazilian Show Room presented the Surf n Sea Pipeline Womens Pro during the holding period of the Pipe Pro Junior, beginning March 16th and wrapping up on the 20th under blue skies with clean conditions and waves in the 4 to 6ft. range. Photographers, fans and family dotted the shoreline to watch the competition, as sponsor tents created a colorful backdrop on the beach. Presenting sponsor Brazilian Show Room was offering 20% off their shop in Haleiwa, plus a raffle to win a free bikini, while Hawaiian Ola handed out refreshing noni beverages and Surf n Sea put together awesome goodie bags for the winners. Pakaloha Bikini, Kua Aina and Bubble Shack Hawai’i’i banners adorned the set up area as well. The event saw a mixture of veteran aptitude versus youthful skill, with the Finals ultimately coming down to a back-and-forth battle between Kauai’s Keala Kennelly, North Shore’s Honolua Blomfield & Moana Jones, and Waianae’s Melanie Bartels. 36-year-old Keala was a step above the rest at the onset of the 35-minute final, sitting much further west than the other competitors and taking on the hefty double-overhead barrels with confidence.
"I've been surfing out here since I was about 12, so I've put in a lot of time," said Keala. "Being a big wave surfer definitely helped today. I've taken my fair share of beatings, so for sure it helps to not be intimidated when the conditions are heavy like they were today.” Congratulations KK on a well-deserved win… you fricken’ charge! Another congrats to 16-year-old Honolua Blomfield for taking runner-up title, fresh off a successful competition at the Noosa Festival of Surfing in Australia. And big props to Melanie Bartels for taking third place, and to Moana Jones, the youngest surfer in the final, for making it to the finals for the second year in a row and taking home fourth. Final Results 1st Keala Kennelly (HAW), 11.85 pts 2nd Honolua Blomfield (HAW), 9.10 pts 3rd Melanie Bartels (HAW), 7.90 pts 4th Moana Jones (HAW), 5.80 pts
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Today’s top Hawai‘i pros were groms not too long ago. We dug through the archives and found some classic moments from the hanabatta days. See if you can guess the youthful faces of our current crop of your favorite Hawai‘i sufers. Answers below. Photos: Mike Latronic
1. John John Florence 2. Koa Smith 3. Ezekiel Lau 4. Dusty Payne 5. Mason and Coco Ho 6. Koa Rothman and Nathan Florence 7. Malia Manuel 8. Seth Moniz 9. Eli Olsen
Wyatt McHale throwing the hammer down.
Reilly
FIT FOR SURF / Maybe it’s the extraordinary physical conditioning or the incredible energy both sports provide. Or perhaps the mental confidence both sports require. The link between the two could be any number of things, from individualism to creative expression to technicality. Whatever factor it may be, there is no doubt that jiu jitsu has an ever-growing presence amongst the surf community. And the crossover is not limited to just our WSL superstars, but can be found trickling down to our youth as well. “Jiu jitsu is very technical, so is surfing,” comments 15-year-old North Shore surfer Moana Jones, who also trains in the martial art. “You want to use technique and flow into you're maneuvers,” Moana adds. “Jiu jitsu is very similar, you want to use technique and think before you act.” To get a closer look into the surf/jiu jitsu cross training infatuation, I joined surf/jiu jitsu legend Kid Peligro and up and coming super grom Wyatt McHale for a little training of my own. Kid learned from the great Rickson Gracie (widely renowned as jiu jitsu’s best ever), has taught for over 21 years, and has written multiple books on the subject. So I figured I was in the right place to boost my jiu jitsu IQ and get a hefty work out during the process as well.
“BE LIKE WATER” JIU JITSU By Sean Reilly
Jiu Jitsu is a martial art, combat sport and a self-defense system that focuses on grappling and ground fighting. At first glance, jiu jitsu and surfing have very little in common; rolling around on a mat in goofy white pajamas versus sliding down the surface of moving water. However, when you take a deeper look, you will find that the two have a multitude of similarities. “A wave is constantly moving and unpredictable,” former World Longboard Champion Joel Tudor stated in a recent interview with Surfer. “And the same goes for your opponent in a fight. You learn to think quickly and your body reacts quicker,” Joel says in regards to jiu jitsu. Joel is not the only surfer who thinks the two sports share a common ground. Many practitioners of jiu jitsu are dedicated surfers and vice versa. In fact, many of the world’s best surfers - the Irons brothers, Kelly Slater, Sunny Garcia, the Rothman family, Billy Kemper and Joel Centeio (just to name a few) - have all spent time on the mat.
“Kid has a jiu jitsu and surfing background and has helped train lots of surfers,” says 13-year-old Wyatt McHale. “Kid has been working with Freddy P, Joel Centeio and Mark Healy for a few years now, and I am excited to be able to work alongside these great surfers and with Kid too!” After blasting my heart rate higher than I thought possible and pouring out a few gallons of sweat, I left the “Boars Nest” with a new understanding of the sport and just how hard these guys train. “Jiu jitsu has really helped me improve my mental game in surf contests, especially in high pressure situations,” describes Wyatt. “Lately I’ve also been training Ginastica Natural with Kid Peligro, and it is really helping with my strength and flexibility, which is key for free surfing.” In my short one-hour class, I could easily grasp why jiu jitsu is so popular amongst surfers. Jiu jitsu is not only about choking out your opponent till he cries uncle; it is a method for promoting physical fitness and building character in young people. It is about putting your ego aside and living in the moment. It is about challenging yourself physically and mentally to relax and remain calm in unpredictable and high-pressure situations. It was the ying to surfing’s yang! Jiu jitsu’s peanut butter to surfing’s jelly! pau
Hailing from Haiku, Maui, Chaz Kinoshita has made a mark in surfing beyond just his talent in the water. While Chaz has been touted as a big wave paddle surfer, charging Jaws and Maui’s outer reefs, the senior in high school has also taken on a craft that is equally challenging. Son of legendary Hawaiian big wave charger / Kazuma master shaper Matt Kinoshita, eighteen-year-old Chaz has been shaping under the Kazuma logo for six years, first as an apprentice and now as a craftsman.
How many years shaping? Six years. I first started shaping when I was twelve years old.
Shaping a surfboard is what comes naturally to me out of the steps of building a surfboard. Who has been your mentor?
How many years surfing? My dad. I started surfing when I was eight, so about ten years. When and why did you begin building boards? I first started building boards because of my dad. I sort of just grew up in and around the shop. What was the first board you ever shaped? How did it fare in the water? The first board I ever shaped for myself was a 7’0 gun that at the time was big for me. I ended up buckling it and actually just fixed it not too long ago.
What motivates you to keep shaping? Watching people enjoy my creations. Who is the best surfer out there? Kelly Slater is the best surfer in the world, hands down. Who is the best shaper out there and why? My dad is who I look up to and who teaches me everything I need to know. Every question I ask he is able to answer.
Favorite type of board to shape? My favorite type of board to shape is a regular Milkman model. Who do you typically shape for?
If you could have any surfer ride your boards, who would it be and why? Dave Rastovich, because of his stoke on riding different shapes.
Myself, my dad and friends. What’s on the horizon for 2015? In your opinion, what was the hardest thing you had to learn for this craft? The hardest thing I had to learn so far would be shaping the rails. Which aspects of board building come naturally to you?
High school graduation! Any advice for someone interested in shaping? The more you try, the harder it gets.
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Nick Ricca
THE SHAPING ROOM / WITH CHAZ KINOSHITA
DAMAGE CONTROL /
Junior
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Lifeguards With Abe Lerner & Bryan Phillips
Words by Chris Latronic | Photos by Zak Noyle The ocean will forever be a dangerous place for human beings, and the only way to minimize risk of injury is through endless education and experience. Fortunately, the Junior Lifeguard Program in the State of Hawai’i’i has been around to teach our growing keiki the skills and knowledge they need to stay safe and capable in case of an ocean emergency.
Junior Lifeguards years. When I was 18, I volunteered to help all summer before I tried out to become a real beach lifeguard. AL: I was not in the program, as I was in my first year of service as a lifeguard in 1990. Has the program changed much throughout the years? BP: The core of the program has stayed pretty much the same since I was a kid. The last few years, we have added a cultural component by taking the kids to Waimea Bay once a week where Uncle Bob Leinau gives an amazing history lesson about Waimea. Thursdays at the Bay is definitely a highlight of our program. “The history lesson from Bob is so interesting to me because I grew up on the point of Waimea Bay,” says North Shore surfer/skater and junior lifeguard Evan Mock. “I love hearing old stories of what went down in the Bay and the recourses it provided.”
Head organizers of the Junior Lifeguard Program: Abe Lerner Age: 42 Rescue Craft Operator 25 yrs as lifeguard Bryan Phillips Age: 30 Water Safety Officer II / Rescue Craft Operator 11 yrs as lifeguard
What is the Junior Lifeguard program? How long has the program been running? BP: The Junior lifeguard program is a youth program aimed at increasing the self-confidence, physical conditioning, and ocean awareness of program participants through their introduction to water safety, first aid, and surf rescue techniques. AL: The Junior Lifeguard Program was created by the City and County of Honolulu’s Ocean Safety Division, and was started back in 1990. It’s in its 25th year. The Junior Lifeguard Program is open to youths ages 13-17 and is developed to educate and promote ocean safety and awareness, and to give the adolescents of our community an important set of life skills that will help them succeed! Each week about 30 teens go through the program and leave with numerous rescue techniques, CPR capabilities, conditioning and training, career possibilities, and an overall better sense of the ocean and what our lifeguards do! “The most fun thing about Junior Guards is learning ocean safety, meeting new friends and having something really fun to look forward to during the summer when the waves are flat,” says North Shore surfer and junior lifeguard Moana Jones. Did you participate in the Junior Lifeguard program growing up? BP: I did the Junior Lifeguard program at ‘Ehukai every summer for 5
AL: The Junior Lifeguard Program sessions have remained constant throughout the years; lots of training, rescues, beach runs, swims, snorkels, guest speakers, etc. What can kids learn from being in the program? BP: The kids learn all the same rescue techniques we use on the beach as trained lifeguards; cross chest carry, fins and tube, rescue board and the rescues utilizing the jet ski. We also teach them some basic first aid and CPR. The program is a great stepping stone for anyone who is interested in becoming a lifeguard. What’s your best and worst experiences of being part of the Junior Lifeguard program? BP: Junior Guards was always the highlight of my summer. I love being able to help the kids in my community have a safe and fun learning environment. The worst experience was about 5 years ago when the City and County canceled the Junior Lifeguard program in our district. Luckily, the North Shore Lifeguard Association stepped up to the plate. With much need financial support from folks in our community, we successfully ran the program ourselves that year. AL: My best experience was just being an instructor one summer years ago, and just passing on my knowledge to the next generation. I still volunteer every Friday to the program to educate the kids on our rescue craft and the techniques for rescuing persons with the jetski! “The Ski operating team is like no other ski operation team in the world,” adds Evan Mock. “To me they are the most experienced people on this planet and I respect them heavily. Learning about what they do and how they do it is super special to the kids who look up to them.” Any stories of great rescues by junior lifeguards? BP: This last winter, professional surfers and former ‘Ehukai Junior Lifeguards Eli Olsen and Kiron Jabour helped surfboard shaper Dennis Pang. Dennis suffered a neck injury at Sunset Beach and Eli and Kiron extricated him safely out of the shoreline while taking spinal precautions. Eli and Kiron had recently been refreshed on the techniques at the Big Wave Safety summit this past winter, but they had originally learned that technique at the Junior Lifeguard program.
Junior Lifeguards
Tell us about the Junior Lifeguard competition. How is Hawai’i’i faring against the rest? BP: At the end of the summer, the north, south, east and west shores of Oahu’s Junior Lifeguard programs are invited to compete in different running, swimming, paddling, beach flags and lifeguarding events. There are individual winners of each event as well as an overall district winner. It is a great day of competition where the kids go hard to the wall! We have not yet competed in the Nationals, but we are hoping to as soon as we secure funding.
safety, how to asses the ocean and make decisions in a critical or dangerous situation, and how to give back to the community by using their skills to help beach goers stay safe. “Several drownings on our island have been avoided thanks to trained junior guards who have successfully saved victims of large surf and strong rip tides,” says Mainei. What is the future of the Junior Lifeguard program? Anything new on the horizon? BP: In the last few years, due to staffing and budget issues, the City and County of Honolulu can’t afford to run the Junior Lifeguard programs. So different nonprofit groups from around Oahu have stepped up to run them. The North Shore Lifeguard Association (NSLA) is committed to always having a program on the North Shore at ‘Ehukai. This year the NSLA is hosting the Oahu Junior Guard championships on July 25th at Waimea Bay. We invite all kids from all the programs to come and compete! The State Championships will be held on the Big Island at the end of the summer.
AL: The Junior Lifeguard competition brings the kids together at the end of the summer to compete against each other in all the lifeguard skills they have learned while enrolled in the program. There is an Oahu competition and then a state competition. The North Shore kids always do really well but the Kauai kids have been winning the states for the past few years. “A lot of Kauai groms participate in the program during the summer when the North Shore is flat,” says Kauai surfer and guest editor Mainei Kinimaka. “It’s great cross training, a lot of fun, and brings the community together to cheer our teams on during competitions both in state and nationally. For the past 11 years the Kauai team has won states, and the last two years we’ve travelled to California and Virginia Beach for Lifeguard Nationals, where we placed 2nd overall.”
AL: The future of the Junior Lifeguard Program is to continue to do it! However in recent years the City can no longer afford to fund it, so the North Shore Lifeguard Association has and will continue to fully support the North Shore Junior Lifeguard Program. And we will be running 5 weeks of the North Shore Junior Lifeguard Program this summer! pau
Mainei also mentions that the program teaches juniors proper ocean
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What Grom?
Ty Simpson-Kane, 11 Kuau, Maui Country boy. Inspired by Ian Walsh. Loves surfing Pipeline the Cave at Honolua Bay. Would rather be getting barreled. Charges big waves and has the photos to prove it.
Ehitu Keeling
Ocean Macedo, 12 Lahaina, Maui Looks up to Gabriel Medina because of his big airs and consistency. Loves to spearfish. Rocks out to Pandora’s Dance station. Inspired by John John Florence. Craves the feeling of getting barreled.
Sammy Gray, 12 Hanalei, Kauai Pinetree’s local. Hopes to one day make the World Tour, also take home a victory at the Pipe Masters. Sponsored by Billabong and Dakine. Middle name is Kalaniki. Favorite surfer is Andy
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Irons.
Kailua, Oahu Humble yet determined demeanor. Recently added to T&C Surfboard’s team riders. Costa Rican-born. Inspired by favorite surfer Carissa Moore. Loves to cook.
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Morissette / Rip Curl
Brisa Hennessy, 15
Erik Aeder
Axel Rosenblad, 12 Haliimaile, Maui Had the chance to surf Teahupoo last summer, got the wave of his life, end of story. Inspired by Albee Layer. Loves listening to Tame Impala. Follows @kook_of_the_day on Instagram.
Ehitu Keeling
Brent Bielmann
Keanu Taylor, 10 Kahana, Maui Can usually be found at V-Land. Honing his barrel riding. Spends dual time in Maui waters and along the North Shore. Pint-sized powerhouse. Sponsored by Volcom and Body Glove.
Eli Hanneman, 12 Lahaina, Maui Boosts major airs. Eli is short for Elijah Kealoha Hanneman. Clocks in major time at Lahaina Harbor. Motivated by his friendly rivals, Ocean Macedo, Jackson Bunch, Cole Alves and Brodi Sale. Inspired by the sick style and super calm demeanor of John John Florence.
Ehitu Keeling
Erik Aeder
Summer Macedo, 14 Lahaina, Maui Looks up to Carissa Moore for her power turns and style. Is a go-getter in the water. Known for snaking her brother, Ocean. Loves to sing and wants to be a writer. Listens to Pandora’s Amy Winehouse radio station. Enjoys competition over free surfing for the adrenaline rush.
Kahanu Delovio, 16 Kailua-Kona, Big Island Big on power turns. Snappy style with serious confidence. Sings and dances hula. Can usually be found surfing Banyans. Inspired by Carissa Moore.
Ehitu Keeling
Brodi Sale, 12 Kailua-Kona, Big Island Free surfing with friends is when he has the most fun. Loves getting barreled, especially at Restaurants in Tavarua. Inspired by Dusty Payne. Doesn’t have cable (or video games) at home. Plays basketball.
Moana Jones, 15 Haleiwa, Oahu Practices jiu jitsu when not surfing. Can usually be spotted at V-Land and Rock Pile. Apt barrel finder. Well rounded surfer. Persistent in improving.
Ryan Chachi Craig
Jason Shibata
Jackson Bunch, 11 Paia, Maui Loves free surfing, because “you can go BIG!� Well spoken, friendly and has an aloha vibe. Boosts big airs for his little age, but favorite maneuver is getting barreled. Listens to Chuck Berry Pandora station. Favorite surfer is John John Florence.
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Name: Kalani Chapman Age: 32
Occupation: Professional Surfer Home Town: Haleiwa
Board: Surftech Channel Island New Flyer photo: Nelly
A P E R T U R E
Captions by Uluboi
One section at a time, Eli Hanneman laying the line. Photo: Erik Aeder
Blowing minds and smoking sections. Kalani David finding a smooth re entrance. Photo Tony Heff
Looking ahead, the future is bright. Cody Young placing it up right. Photo: Marc Chambers
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Big things for this little guy. Elijah Gates putting in time. Photo: Gonzo
Don't blink, you might just miss it. Seth Moniz making a statement. Photo: Ryan Chachi Craig
Hands behind the back, taking his time. Noa Mizuno relaxed and reclined. Photo: Bryce Johnson
PEER POLL
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Keanu Taylor // 10 // Kahana, Maui Favorite wave: Â V-Land Favorite surfer: Dusty Payne Favorite Instagram: @a_gray Favorite thing to do besides surf:Â Skate Free surfing vs. competition: Competitions are fun because I get to hang out with and surf with all my friends from outer islands. I get stoked if I win and stoked for my friends when they win.
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Thatcher Johnson // 12 // North Shore, Oahu Favorite wave: Pipeline Favorite maneuver: Barrels and tail slides Favorite Instagram: @donkeyshow (Mark Healey) Favorite thing to do besides surf: Eat acai bowls Free surfing vs. competition: I like them both, but I’d have to say free surfing more because I feel more loose when I’m doing it and I feel like there is less pressure.
Aaron Lieber - Redtography
Cody Young
// 15 // North Shore, Maui wave: Honomanu maneuver: Switch-foot hang ten barrel roll surfer: Albee Layer Instagram: @kaynedoingthings thing to do besides surf: Eat massive amounts of food
Sean Reilly
Favorite Favorite Favorite Favorite Favorite
Noah Beschen // 14 // North Shore, Oahu Favorite wave: Pipe and Backdoor Favorite maneuver: A big backside full rotation Favorite surfer: John John Florence Favorite thing to do besides surf: Skate Free surfing vs. competition: I don’t think I like one more than the other, they are both equally fun in my eyes.
Heff
Morrissette / Rip Curl Mike Latronic
Elijah Fox // 15 // Kapahi, Kauai Favorite wave: Kealia Beach Favorite maneuver: Lay back / air reverse Favorite surfer: John John Florence Public school vs. home school: I like public school because I’m with my friends and you have teachers, but homeschool is cool because you can surf all day Winter board casualties: 6
Kailani Jones Favorite Favorite Favorite Favorite Favorite
// 14 // Haleiwa, Oahu wave: V-Land maneuver: Front side snap surfer: Moana Jones thing to do besides surf: Work out Pandora station: Disney
Imaikalani deVault // 17 // Makawao, Maui Favorite wave: Honolua Bay Favorite maneuver: Either a good air or a big carve Favorite surfer: Dane Reynolds Favorite Instagram account: @thefatjewish Free surfing vs. competition: I love competing, I'm just competitive and I enjoy the challenge
Most Likely To‌
Win the XXL award Makana Pang / Mahina Maeda
Win a world title Seth Moniz / Dax McGill
Land the next innovative crazy air Imai deVault / Moana Jones
Graduate from college Elijah Fox / Mainei Kinimaka
Start their own company Chaz Kinoshita / Luana Coelho
Go feral Brodi Sale / Kahanu Delovio
Be the next pro free surfer Noah Beschen / Zoe McDougall
Diesel Storm Butts // 9 // Pepeekeo, Big Island Favorite wave: Pohoiki Bowls Favorite maneuver: Whacking da lip Favorite surfer: Uluboi Napeahi Favorite thing to do besides surf: Dive Winter board casualties: 4 boards! Still looking for that magic board!
Start a music career Kalani David / Summer Macedo
Become a model/surfer Diego Ferri / Sunshine Patey
Go left at Mavericks Jackson Bunch / Brisa Hennessy
Win the Triple Crown Wyatt McHale
Compete on the Stand Up World Tour Riggs Napolean / Vanina Walsh
Have a fashion career Barron Mamiya / Kailani Jones
Keith Nehls
Be a business mogul Kaiser Auberlen / Cayla Moore
Be Instagram famous Uluboi Napeahi / Honolua Blomfield
Luana Coelho Favorite Favorite Favorite Favorite Favorite
// 10 // North Shore, Oahu wave: V-Land maneuver: Hit the lip and turns surfer: Carissa Moore Instagram account: @kellyslater thing to do besides surf: Skate at Banzai Skate Park
Suitt
Gonzo
Kaiser Auberlen // 10 // North Shore, Oahu Favorite wave: Ehukai sandbar, V-Land and Rockies Favorite maneuver: I like to get barreled and grab rail cutbacks are super sick Favorite surfer: Wilko! Free surfing vs. competition: I love free surfing because it’s way more fun and no pressure Favorite thing to do besides surf: Skate and Clash of Clans
76-6246 Ali`i Dr. Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740 (808) 326-1771
Brent Bielmann
Noa Mizuno // 16 // Kuliouou, Oahu Favorite wave: Pipe and Mentawai and some other places I can't print Favorite maneuver: Barrels, good powerful turns with speed and flow Favorite surfer: Andy Irons, Julian Wilson, Kelly Slater Favorite thing to do besides surf: Fish, travel Total board casualties: I usually go though 5 to 6 boards every quarter, but winter time is more like 8 to 10
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Kai Ku Hale Green Style Island Living Unique Hawaiian Art, Home Decor & Gifts
Haleiwa Town Center Open 10 am - 6pm Daily 66-145 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa, HI 96712 Phone: (808) 636-2244 www.kaikuhale.com
GABRIELA BRYAN By Mainei Kinimaka
DOB: April 9, 2002 School/Grade: Kapa’a Middle School, Grade 7 Hometown: Kilauea Homebreak: Pinetrees Favorite Board: 5’4” by Aukai Lee Instagram: @gabriela_bryan_
Dane Grady
WAHINE SPOTLIGHT /
Gabriela Bryan hails from the town of Kilauea on the Island of Kaua’i. She was raised surfing not only the powerful and pristine waves produced on Kaua’i’s north shore, but also the perfect rights of Nias, Indonesia. Her father helped rebuild the community near Nias after the torrential tsunami in December of 2004 and since then, Gabriela has been fortunate enough to return and surf the famed Indonesian break. On any given day at home, you can find Gabriela fearlessly charging Hanalei Bay with power and confidence that exceeds her mere 12 years of age. With a quick wit and spitfire attitude that has always separated her from her peers, this wahine is showing that she’s more than just your average grom. I remember encouraging Gabriela at Huntington Beach before her all-boy
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WAHINE SPOTLIGHT / mini grom heat just two years ago, and am now amazed to watch her compete in contests like the Sunset Jr. Pro without any need for advice from me. I’ve never seen someone progress as fast as Gabriela, and still maintain such a sweet and respectful nature. This girl is one to keep an eye on in the future! How long have you been surfing and what’s your ‘first wave’ story? I’ve been surfing since I was four. It was at Hanalei pier and Andrea Smith pushed me in. Describe yourself with five words. Athletic, funny, nice, smart and outgoing.
Worst wipeout? Probably at Sunset. I went right over the falls! (laughs) Who or what inspires you? My friends and family inspire me because they support me in whatever I do. Any hobbies outside of surfing? I like to do jiu jitsu.
What do you love most about surfing and being in the ocean? My favorite part of surfing is that it makes you a well-rounded person. You get to travel and have new experiences and learn new things about how other people live.
Do you/have you traveled for surf? Yes, I’ve traveled to Indonesia, Salina Cruz in Mexico, and O’ahu and California.
What has been your best contest result? I got first place at HSA States in 2014 on O’ahu for Under 12 Girls, and at Surfing America Championships I got 4th in Under 12 Girls two years in a row. Free surfing vs. competition… what do you love most and why? I would probably say I like free surfing better because there’s no time limit and no one’s judging you. You can have as much fun as you want!
Where do you see yourself in the next 5 years? I see myself getting good results in the Jr. Pros and winning NSSA Nationals or USA Championships.
Airs or barrels?
What’s your favorite break?
Barrels.
A secret spot on Kaua’i.
If you could have any super power, what would it be?
If you could travel anywhere in the world for a surf trip, where would it be?
Who is your favorite surfer and why? My favorite surfer would either be John John Florence because he does big airs, or Joel Parkinson because he does powerful turns. If you could change/improve one thing about surfing, what would it be?
Fiji! What do you think about school and surfing? Is it hard to balance good grades and good contest results?
I wish surfing could be an Olympic sport.
It’s hard with all the travelling, because you miss so much school, but you’re also getting a good education.
Biggest wave you’ve ever charged?
What maneuver do you dream of landing?
Sunset. It was like 10 to 12ft. faces this past January at the Sunset Jr. Pro. Kahea (Hart) put me right in the impact section and said, “Go!” even though he knew the set was coming!
An air reverse.
A wave magnet, to bring all the good waves to me during my heat! What would you do if you won the lottery? I would buy houses all over the world right in front of perfect surf spots. Anyone you’d like to thank? My family for supporting me, my dad for taking me to contests all over the country, and Kahea Hart for coaching me.
pau
COMMUNITY /
HOMESCHOOL STORIES FOR SURFERS Words by Rae Sojot | Photos by Heff / Rock Homeschool. Charter School. Online School. Hybrid School. In examining the unique intersect between academics and athletics, a growing number of young surfers opt to take their education beyond the walls of traditional school. Thanks to the internet, information on education alternatives is convenient and accessible; programs that were once considered fringe have now become mainstream. By balancing sport and study, many of today’s up and coming surfers are now exploring innovative methods of education and crafting individualized academic pathways for themselves. Freesurf was recently afforded an intimate look at the myriad details behind and the resulting impact of their decisions. In graciously sharing their stories, students and parents dispelled common misconceptions (No, online academics aren’t any easier), urged caution (parental involvement is crucial in homeschooling), and extolled the virtues of a bespoke education (charter schools are fine examples of such customization). Whereas each story was rich and unique, a motif connected them all: An optimal education, no matter what form, is one that supports the goals and needs of students and their families. Following are a few of their compelling stories.
Homeschool Profile//JONES’ FAMILY Homeschooling is swiftly becoming a family tradition for North Shore’s Jones’ ohana. Upand-coming surfers Moana,15 and Kailani, 14, have received a home-based education their entire lives through parents Dussy and Dawson. Dussy, who was homeschooled herself growing up, is passionate about what she does and lends a quiet confidence to her role as a parent educator. But is homeschooling for everyone? Not necessarily, says Dussy, who earned a PhD in Education Curriculum and Instruction. For the Jones’, however, the decision to carry on the homeschooling legacy was a no brainer: the emphasis on education and cultivation of character dovetailed nicely with the family’s cornerstones of togetherness and Christian principles. Having experienced homeschooling firsthand made it all that easier for Dussy to extend its benefits to her own children. Dussy advises thoroughly researching homeschooling before making the plunge, noting that homeschooling is often confused
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with distance learning, an altogether different educational approach. “Homeschooling requires parents to choose and implement curriculum according to their educational philosophy. This means parents are in control of the entire educational process: they are the teacher & principal-they make all the educational calls,” explains Dussy. With distance learning, the online school sets the curriculum and students follow the school’s rules and procedures. On the Jones’ dining room table a collection of folders, workbooks and journals are neatly stacked in orderly piles. Dussy deftly sorts through them, pulling samples of Moana and Kailani’s recent work—english essays, science project notes and typed reports. Their work is impressive. And with six subjects to cover (the current lineup includes English, Biology, Bible, World History, Spanish and Plane Geometry), organization is critical; Dussy keeps a careful account of the girls’ lessons and is required to send in quarterly progress reports to BEKA Academy, the homeschooling program from which she draws the girls’ current curriculum. Moana and Kailani do not follow conventional school calendar year. Unlike schools that
proffer seasonal breaks (i.e. winter, spring and summer), the girls typically work straight through; full completion of a grade level takes approximately seven months. All work and no play? On the contrary: this set up works well for the Jones’, allowing a larger freedom to travel on their own schedule. On many occasions they will take their materials with them. (“In the carry-on, not the check-in bag!” Dussy laughs about their recent surf trip to Fiji.) Luckily, Dussy doesn’t have to worry about any grumbling towards studies: Moana and Kailani are ‘self-starters’, tackling their schoolwork after morning devotions. Core subjects like math and english are hit before a morning surf session and remaining subjects are concluded before lunch. Afternoons then feature a full roster of rotating activities—babysitting, household chores, volunteering, church events, Brazilian jiu jitsu, piano lessons—and of course, surfing. Both Jones girls have racked up numerous accolades in surfing. Homeschooling has been an integral piece to their success. “Sometimes the girls put in 2 to 3 surf sessions a day,”
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safety net of her parents. Although she was traveling with the Hawaiian surf team, her parents’ absence transformed the trip into a quick study in taking care of herself. “I learned how to do things for myself from that experience,” shares Mahina, now 17. Today the current World Junior Champ is just as well-versed in traveling solo —booking flights and securing lodgings— as she is comfortable in making decisions regarding her life’s path. One recent decision? Leaving the tried and true public school realm to explore other educational options. As Mahina’s athletic lodestar rose, so too did her challenges with maintaining her school responsibilities. Travel was advantageous for her surfing career yet made for innumerable absences on school transcripts. Unreliable wi-fi in far-off locales further complicated attempts to submit her assignments in a timely manner. Mahina soon realized she needed something that could support her surfing dreams without compromising her education. Luckily she found that at Hawai’i’i Tech Academy. Currently in her second year, Mahina describes HTA as a hybrid of distance learning and homeschool. A typical week includes four days of online curriculum and one day at the actual brick and mortar location located in Waipahu. There, Mahina interacts with fellow students and receives assistance from her teachers. HTA’s flexibility works well for Mahina’s current schedule and aspirations. “I can surf, travel and compete,” she says, noting that her maturity towards independent, academic learning comes from her myriad travel experiences. Case in point: Last year, she took off on the biggest wave of her life in Nazare, Portugal, becoming only the second female to ever surf the notorious spot. “That experience gave me something deeper. I realized that I had focus and that I could extend my limits.” That resolve is reflected in Mahina’s decision to amp up her studies this year. With her sights set on the CT, she’s put herself on the academic fast track to graduate a year early. Dussy shares. “That can mean 6 hours total in the water.” Multiply those numbers—for the week, month, year—and soon enough, homeschooling becomes a sweet advantage for surfers looking for an edge. “You can get really good, really fast.” But Dussy is leery of gambling a solid education against the temptation of an accelerated surfing career. The risk is too great and once education gets derailed…it can be difficult to get back on track. “True education is the balance of the mental, physical, spiritual and social,” notes Dussy. “We want to teach our kids to be selfsustaining, to be able to teach themselves and their family. Any success that surfing brings is just icing on the cake.”
Homeschool Profile//KAULANA APO
“There’s a place for homeschooling, distance schooling, public and private education—homeschooling is not for everyone so parents must decide which educational path best meets their family’s structure, function and direction,” says Dussy. And while homeschooling is daunting in its demands on time and energy (especially on the primary teaching parent), the results from choosing and implementing one’s own curriculum are well worth the effort. For the Jones, the freedom of time, creativity, cheerful spirit and increased family bonding are among many bonuses that the homeschooling experience provides. Adds Dussy, “It keeps me feeling young and happy.”
Finding balance as a student and surfer gets tricky, admits Kaulana. Fortunately, HTA serves as a boon in allowing him to pursue his passion without losing sight of his education.
Homeschool Profile//MAHINA MAEDA At the tender age of 12, Mahina Maeda found herself on her first international surf trip bound for the ISA games in Peru—without the
Unlike the common notion of homeschoolers snoozing till midday, 16 year old rising surfer Kaulana Apo starts his morning bright and early, his mom rousing him at 6:15 am before departing to work. Like Mahina, Kaulana is a junior at HTA; this summer will mark two years of enrollment there. Once up, Kaulana often takes a stab at his studies before fixing breakfast around 8. School work recommences for the next few hours. Once his work is complete (and mom gives the green light) Kaulana is free to hit the beach for a surf session. Time check? Usually around noon.
But distance learning has some caveats, according to Kaulana, who attended public school until 8th grade. Namely, students must be selfdirected and responsible for their own learning. Kaulana is grateful to have his mom in his corner; she makes sure his work meets the quantity and quality standards and checks in with him throughout the day. Ultimately, the onus falls on him—something that Kaulana learned early on. “I had to become more independent that first year,” he says. “Your teacher isn’t there to answer your question when you raise your hand.” Whenever he hits a snag in his studies, Kaulana seeks ways to find a solution—either by researching the subject more or enlisting the
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assistance of friends and mentors. Kaulana recognizes HTA’s unique format allows him to dedicate the time needed towards his immediate goal of surfing professionally. Yet, education is a tantamount goal for him as well. In fact, Kaulana says, if surfing wasn’t on his radar, he would be aiming to “get into the best possible school to get the best possible education, in order to then work at the best possible paying job.” In the meantime, Kaulana can answer surfing’s siren call and strive for success in the water without eschewing his education. “I’m going to go to college no matter what.”
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which (herself included) currently homeschool. If the waves look good, Kahanu heads straight to the beach and cinches up her school lessons in the late afternoon. If there is a lull, Kahanu gets ahead in her studies, banking in more time for when the surf is firing or when travel calls.
Homeschool Profile//KAHANU DELOVIO
Despite being an old pro at the homeschooling routine (she’s been homeschooled since 3rd grade) Kahanu cheerfully confides that neither the material nor the motivation always comes easy. “For me, it is really hard to stay focused, especially when there’s waves. I get over school really fast, so I have to reach a specific goal before I can be done,” she says. When the surf teases and distraction creeps in, Kahanu’s parents are there to reset her focus. “When your mom’s your teacher and your dad’s your principle, they don’t cut you any slack!”
Kahanu Delovio’s ebullient charm shines even when sharing the details of her homeschooling routine. Mornings start early—a 5am wake up call followed by a family breakfast review of the prior day. Kahanu is one of seven kids; three of
Some critics argue that homeschooling limits kids’ critical socializing needs and or worse, stymies life skills, but Kahanu easily proves otherwise. It’s because of homeschooling that Kahanu is able to maximize her surfing
opportunities. Consequently, surfing has created countless opportunities: “Traveling all over, making so many friends, getting to learn life lessons, creating new connections— surfing has opened a whole new society for me!” In addition, Kahanu’s homeschooling schedule allows her to manage two jobs—one as a lifeguard and the other helping to set up and break down events. She doesn’t have a major sponsor so her hard-earned money goes toward covering travel expenses—an impressive feat considering Kahanu is only 16. “I also bought my first car!” she says, with a touch of shy pride. Homeschooling, or rather, the freedom that homeschooling provides, has proven a key influence in shaping Kahanu’s merry outlook on life. “I love the flexibility,” Kahanu says, her voice brimming with enthusiasm at the future ahead. And though surf, studies, and work keeps her slate full, Kahanu’s joie de vivre keeps it all fun. pau
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INDUSTRY NOTES The Volcom team is diving deeper into the heart of the True To This movement, with a new episode that pays respect to their Hawaiian family, and gives special appreciation for the raw power and beauty of Hawai’i’i. Join The Growlers, Dusty Payne, Coco Ho, Rune Glifberg, Pat Moore, Gavin Beschen and many more on a quick trip to paradise in Volcom Stone's latest installment of the True To This series, "Growling on the North Shore". T&C welcomes new Hawai‘i talent to their team. T&C Surfboards is pleased to announce the addition of Brisa Hennessy to the T&C surf team, who recently took home the win in Open Women and Explorer Women at the NSSA Regional Championships at Kewalos. Brisa is taking advantage of the great waves Hawai’i’i has to offer and is chasing her dream of becoming a great pro surfer. Surfboard shaper Makani McDonald has joined the team of skilled craftsmen at the T&C Surfboard Factory. With over 15 years of shaping experience, Makani’s focus is on modern high performance short and longboards. “My biggest influence in recent years has been Glenn Pang," says Makani. "I’ve been working with him over the past 5 years.” T&C Surf is also pleased to announce the addition of Ha 'a Keaulana to the surf Ohana. The daughter of waterman Brian Keaulana and granddaughter of legendary surfer Buffalo Keaulana (also one of the first team riders for T&C Surf), Ha‘a is at home in the blue waters of her home beach in Makaha, Hawai’i’i. "I'm stoked to represent a brand that pretty much shares the same values and lifestyle that I was raised on," says Ha'a of T&C Surf. Rip Curl is ecstatic to announce the multi-year signing of Hawaiian superstar Mason Ho to their professional surf team. Hailing from Sunset Beach on Oahu’s famed North Shore, Mason brings it all to the Rip Curl program: progression, versatility, personality, legacy, and aloha. “I'm honored to join a company like Rip Curl with so much surfing history,” Mason says. 360-degree action cam, 360fly, Inc., recently announced the signing of professional surfer Carissa Moore. As a partner and brand ambassador, Carissa will capture her life, on and off the board, in neverbefore-seen 360 degrees. ”When I first saw how you interact with the 360fly video – I was blown away,” says Carissa. “I thought about how fun it’s going to be to watch and share videos that allow viewers to select what direction they want to look. Viewers will be able to look down the barrel or back at me, and essentially could watch the same video 100 times and have a different experience each time.”
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The world's best surfers traded sunlight for spotlight as they hit the red carpet for the 2015 World Surf League (WSL) Awards - the night that celebrates the achievements of the 2014 season, and officially opens the 2015 WSL Samsung Galaxy Championship Tour year. In case you missed it, here are the award winners: Breakthrough Performers: John John Florence (HAW) and Johanne Defay (FRA) Heat of the Year: John John Florence (HAW)/Kelly Slater (USA) at Tahiti & Tyler Wright (AUS)/Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) at Bells Beach Move of the Year: Julian Wilson (AUS) and Lakey Peterson (USA) Wave of the Year: Kelly Slater (USA) and Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) WSL Junior Champions: Vasco Ribeiro (PRT) and Mahina Maeda (HAW) WSL Longboard Champions: Harley Ingleby (AUS) and Chelsea Williams (AUS) WSL Women's Runner-Up: Tyler Wright (AUS) WSL Men's Runner-Up: Mick Fanning (AUS) WSL Women's Champion: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) WSL Men's Champion: Gabriel Medina (BRA) North Shore Soap Factory is sponsoring an Ocean’s Awareness Art class every Wednesday through April. The program was created by Abel Arts Collective, Sustainable Coastlines HI and PangeaSeed. Creating an art & environmental curriculum with a group of local elementary students living on the North Shore of Oahu, the Ocean’s Awareness art class is led by local art teacher Laura Couto, who, for 8 weeks, is fostering activism and encouraging expression of environmental issues through a series of lessons. The culmination of the project will be an art show where the kids present their own works of art inspired by the environment. Body Glove releases the Jamie O’Brien Signature Boardshorts available in store. “When I designed my boardshorts, I was really looking for something that was light and comfortable,” says JOB. “I like camo, I like rasta, it kind of fits into the whole Hawai’i’i vibe. The main thing for me is that my boardshorts stay on,” continues Jamie. “Cause I definitely don’t want to do the walk of shame.” Body Glove’s Jamie O’Brien Signature Boardshorts are available in surf shops across the country! Also, big congrats to Jamie for winning the Oakley Wave of the Winter powered by Surfline and $25,000. Volcom and Mauli Ola have teamed up to create a couple products that are part of their Give Back Series, the 20" Mo Benefit Boardshort for $60 and the Mauli Ola Foundation Tee for $22. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Mauli Ola foundation to support their programs, which help to provide free surfing experiences to kids with cystic fibrosis.
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Japan's Reo Inaba flew south to Hawai’i’i for the winter, and soared into our Grom Issue. Photo: Tai Vandyke