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F R E E I n

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M a tt M e o l a | P h o t o : N a t h a n i e l H a r r i n g t o n


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THE HAPPY DAZE AND THE HANELEI

Leila continues to find inspiration through her travel creating a collection of patterns and blue hues on the Happy Daze and the Hanelei LUX



48





FREE PARKING


Your greatest surf trip is closer than you think. Surfer: Brad Young Photo: Jake Marote


Mcinnis

COVER STORY

Matt Meola

By Nathaniel Harrington It’s pretty easy to pick out the individuals who have become predominate influencers in surfing, and Matt Meola is definitely one of them. Every new movie or edit he’s in we see the standard change and progress for aerials. This new “Spindle Flip” is an amazing trick, but it’s not the first time he’s blown the world away with new radical maneuvers and I’m sure it won’t be the last. Matt’s been going at airs for a long time now, much longer than the new Brazilian storm, and I’m sure his influence has even pushed them to step up their game. Matt’s got that unique creative style that allows him to be a free surfer while putting pressure on the top competitors to also keep moving forward. Few people have the ability to keep that going, but Matt’s been one of them and I think he’ll keep it up. Swimming out that afternoon it was overcast, with spots of rain passing through - not quite the perfect Hawai‘i setting. But when it gets like that, places on Maui’s north shore can really turn on, and that’s where you’ll find Matt Meola fine-tuning the art of surfing, along with his buddies. Wave after wave I was getting solid shots of Matt, Kai (Barger) and Albee (Layer) as they pushed each other further along with new big maneuvers. It’s a fantastic thing to witness, good vibes in the water. I knew what I had was gold while I was still in the water that evening. This shot, along with a few others just blew my mind. There was such a perfect swell happening and the air section was so consistent, I sat in that zone and took photos of some of the best surfing in the world. Getting home and opening up the shots was just pure stoke. I was too excited to really remember what it even felt like. But it will never feel as good to look at them on the computer as it does watching it happen… I can’t wait to get back out there!

pau


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TA BLE O F C ONT ENT S

Departments

14

Free Parking

16

Cover Story

22

Editor’s Note

24

News & Events

62

Grom Report / Diesel Butts

68

Matt Meola’s Spindle 540

76

Living Pono / Infinite Edibles

80

Pau Hana / Distributing Aloha

84

Book Review / Just Add Water

86

Shoots / Dylan Lazo

88

5 Questions / With TAMBA owner

90

Surf Art / Hawaiian style

94

Industry Notes

96

Last Look


Features

Island Hop

40

Aperture

54

Mokulele and Manulele

Neighbor Islands Exposed

Environment

The debate between Mauna Kea and TMT

Diver: Chelsea Yamase | Photo: Dylan Lazo

70


Nathaniel Harrington

NEW

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher / Editor Lauren Rolland Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Social Media Coordinator Keoki Saguibo Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock, Keoki Saguibo Free Thinkers Shawn Pila, Nathaniel Harrington, Megan Moseley, Beverly Bihasa

Senior Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, Ryan Craig, Jeff

L I M E C OL A D A

Divine, Pete Frieden, Gonzo, Dane Grady, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila, Jim Russi, Keoki Saguibo, Jason Shibata, Spencer Suitt, Tai Vandyke

Contributing Photographers Paulo Barcellos, John Bilderback, Marc Chambers, Brooke Dombroski,

OLA DA T ROPICA L C

DoomaPhoto, Rick Doyle, Isaac Frazer, Pete Hodgson, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Nick Ricca, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt

P I Ñ A COL A DA

Tillotson, Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson, Cole Yamane

Sales & Marketing Manager Brian Lewis Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Office Manager Nate Leclair Account Executive Don Dubie, Nate Leclair

2ERFVUINLGL S

S

of fruistize

small in each

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its

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Taking Flight for the Neighbor Island Issue A while back I was at the Honolulu International Airport, having lunch and waiting for my flight, when the server asked where I was headed. “Kauai,” I told her. “Oh, I’ve always wanted to go to Kauai,” she replied. I’m always surprised to hear this, that locals haven’t been to Kauai given it’s so quick and easy to fly interisland these days. “You know,” she continued, “I’ve never even been off Oahu!”… Mind blown. There are so many people that have this same reality though. A good friend of mine from Kauai didn’t leave the state till she was twenty, and only because I moved back to Santa Cruz did she decide to leave the rock and come visit. There are obvious reasons why some haven’t explored the islands of this archipelago; time and money constraints are the biggies, but there’s also the fear of leaving your comfort zone, or maybe even the fear of flying. Yet it’s so important to experience new things! Even just seeing a different beach or trying out a new wave can feel so fresh and rewarding. With six different islands to explore at our whim (excluding Ni‘ihau and Koho‘olawe), each one uniquely different and rivaling in beauty, we couldn’t ask for a better interisland travel opportunity.

Dan Norkunas

EDITOR’S NOTE


Freesurf was lucky enough to do a little exploration and hop from Oahu to Big Island to Maui and back, in order to gather content for this issue. The crew flew via Mokulele Airlines and had an adventure that’s sure to quench any island fever. Highlighting the neighbor isles in these pages, we’re taking you off Oahu to the equally beautiful landscapes that make up our home state of Hawai’i. Check out the feature on page 40 to see what the Mokulele surf team scored during the escapade, or take a mind surf trip via our Aperture gallery on page 54. Making sure to keep lesser known spots a secret, Freesurf produced the Neighbor Island issue to show off the talent and aesthetics of ALL of Hawai‘i. The first day of summer is June 21st. Hopefully you can take advantage of the long days, escape your comfort zone a little, and try something new. Whether that’s hopping to the next island over, getting to know another town better or surfing a new spot, just get out there and explore. It’s so worth it.

- Lauren Rolland Associate Publisher / Editor


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NEWS & EVENTS /

18TH ANNUAL T&C SURF / SURFER MAGAZINE GROM CONTEST PRESENTED BY CHILI’S GRILL & BAR

For 18 years, T&C Surf has put on an event that symbolizes summer on Oahu, the T&C Surf Grom Contest. Hundreds of miniature surfers gathered at Queen’s in Waikiki to be part of the family-friendly weekend affair, and also for the chance to compete in the entry-level comp for surfers ages 3-12 years old. On Saturday and Sunday, May 16th & 17th, the weather and waves cooperated for two beautiful beach days while keiki and parents refreshed in the clear waters of Oahu.

Keoki Saguibo

By Lauren Rolland

Adam Borello, international director of marketing for T&C Hawaii talks about the atmosphere of the event. “The vibe is all about family, fun and surf, being out in the water,” Borello says. “The whole idea is to let new kids get a chance to have a really unintimidating, fun introduction to competition surfing, and just have a great day of family fun down at the beach.” The T&C Surf Grom Contest is designed so all entry level surfers ages 3 to 12 years old are eligible to surf only one division, providing more kids a chance to compete. T&C Surf and Boys & Girls Club of Hawaii, their nonprofit partner, produces the event each year to introduce young surfers 24

Keoki Saguibo

Each year the event grows, both in contestants and in crowd, and this time around the event saw nearly 300 participants. For many surfers, the T&C Grom Contest is where they got their start in competitive surfing, and while the vibe remains fun, easy and friendly, there’s no denying the groms are stoked to win trophies and an awesome array of prizes and swag.


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to the world of competitive surfing in a less-intense setting, and judging by the turnout, it’s one of the most favored grom contests of the year. “It’s grown immensely and I think it’s grown in all the right ways,” Borello concludes.

Keoki Saguibo

NEWS & EVENTS /

Throughout the day, games, food and music entertained the families, with grinds sponsored by Chili’s Grill & Bar and pop up tents from Naked Juice, Sun Bum, Go Pro, Surf Tech and Freesurf providing shade and swag. Pros like the Moniz brothers, Joel Centeio, Billy Kemper, Kekoa Bacalso, Macy Mullen and Love Hodel were present to give support to the groms and push their own keiki into the gentle waves. Love & Amy Hodel of Haleiwa entered their son, Haven, in the Kokua division, which was the 5-year-old’s first time competing at the T&C Grom Contest. “Haven’s first time in the contest was good!” says Love. “He caught a lot of waves, got some long rides.” Love was happy to introduce Haven to the atmosphere of the T&C Surf Grom Contest, because it’s where he also got his start in surfing. “The vibe is awesome, kind of like the same vibe as when I was a little kid,” says Love. “This is where I learned to surf, my roots are in Waikiki, so having him out there with me felt really special.” Amy adds, “I could see them smiling all the way from the beach, they were so stoked, it was adorable.” The event also saw the inaugural entry of Axel Irons, age 4, son of former world champion and surf icon Andy Irons. The Moniz family helped introduce Axel to the waves of Waikiki while mom Lyndie Irons watched from the beach. All the keiki received goodie bags and prizes, 26

and the top six winners in each division received trophies and prize packs filled with swag from event sponsors. T&C Surfer Grom Contest is presented by Chili’s Grill & Bar and supported by GoPro, Dakine, Vans, Naked Juice and Board Stories. The Boy’s & Girls Club of Hawaii has been the local non profit partner for the event for many years now.


50 th Anniversary

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NEWS & EVENTS /

Joel Centeio

LOCAL MOTION SURF INTO SUMMER PRESENTED BY VISSLA + WSL QS1,000 PRO DIVISION By Freesurf

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After four days of solid surf, the Local Motion Surf Into Summer ended at Ala Moana Bowls on Memorial Day, with nine champions taking home titles and trophies from the amateur divisions. Clean conditions in the 3 to 4 foot range graced the lineup for all four consecutive days of the event, offering highly contestable surf for all the competitors. Friday and Sunday saw the WSL QS1,000 pro comp take to the water while the amateur divisions were held Saturday and Monday. Joel Centeio (Haleiwa, HI) won the pro division – a WSL QS1,000 rated event on Saturday, May 24th, matching the perfection of excellent 5-foot barreling waves with record high scores throughout the rounds. Runner-up was Sunny Garcia (Haleiwa, HI); third was Hank Gaskell (Hana, Maui) and fourth was Kaimana Jaquias (Lihue, Kauai), each earning vital regional ratings points for their results. Centeio, 32, was a clear standout en-route to the final, surfing four rounds and posting the highest combined two wave heat scores for the Quarters (17.05), Semi’s (16.6) and Final (13.25). For the win, Centeio earned himself 1000 ratings points and $2,300. “This is by far the best Bowls I’ve ever surfed,” said Centeio. “The waves were insane the whole time. The first day was perfect, 3 to 4 foot Middles, then today the North wind came and it was just the right size to where the guys could really lay into good turns and get some good barrels. So it’s up there man, and I’m stoked I won.” 28

Hank, Sunny, Joel and Kaimana


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NEWS & EVENTS /

Rock

Kaulana Apo

“This is one of the better events I’ve seen in a long time, the waves were pumping all day,” says Garcia, who took second place, 750 ratings points and $1,200. “Huge thank you to WSL for putting on this event for the Hawai’i guys. It’s huge for us. We have the winter Volcom event, the HIC at Sunset and then the Triple Crown, so to have an event during the summer is huge.”

In the Girls Shortboard 17 & Under Final of the amateur division, Brisa Hennessy (Kailua, HI) battled it out against 5 other top competitors in a fierce heat. Runner-up in a hard-fought final was Julie Nishimoto (Honolulu, HI) and third was Emily Nishimoto (Honolulu, HI). The girls surfed with grace and style- a fine display of the future of womens surfing. 30

Gen Asano

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On Saturday, May 23, day 1 of the amateur event, the Vissla Creators and Innovators division hit the water midday, where craftsmen like Glenn Pang, Matt Kinoshita, Makani McDonald and Brice Yamashita were eager to surf Bowls with only six guys out. A specialty event within the Local Motion Surf Into Summer, the invite-only division featured 18 of Hawaii’s premier board builders who competed for the title of Best Surfer/Shaper. Congratulations to Gen Asano of Honolulu, 20-year-old Tokoro protégé and talented shaper, for winning the Vissla Creators and Innovators title in a hard-fought final. On the final day of the amateur division, taking home the Jr. Men Final title was Kaulana Apo (Honolulu, HI), who displayed incredible skill and competitive savvy to ultimately best his competitors. The Final saw a close match up amongst some of the state’s best amateur surfers including Cody Young (Makawao, Maui), who took second place and Noa Mizuno (Honolulu, HI), who finished third.

Luke Swanson



NEWS & EVENTS / Erik Aeder

OLU KAI OCEAN EVENT Spectators witnessed a spectacular finish to the 7th annual OluKai Ho’olaule’a, a three-day ocean festival with Maui’s undisputed “Queen of the Ocean,” Andrea Moller, winning backto-back titles by taking out first place in the elite OC1 division with a time of 53:46. Moller’s win came just 24 hours after winning the stand up paddle (SUP) crown. Honolulu’s Jimmy Austin claimed first place in the men’s OC1 division with a time of 47:05. Moller and Austin take home the gender equal prize purse of $15,000.

Connor Baxter

Paddlers couldn’t have asked for better conditions with straight out of the east 15-20 knot winds and 3 to 5ft swells offering perfect downwind surfing. The Brazil born and raised Maui resident, Moller, whose strength is surfing, said that she enjoyed every single bump in the race. “Today’s conditions confirmed why I love to paddle,” Moller says.

McEwen

The prestigious eight-mile elite OC1 and recreational OC2 race saw almost 150 of the world’s best paddlers battle it out on the famous Maliko Downwind Run on Maui’s North Shore. The 2015 race produced an exciting field of the world’s top ranked pros, who rarely line-up together for short distance races.

DUKE’S OCEAN SPORTS & FITNESS DAY During the last Saturday of April, HIC once again partnered with the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation (ODKF) and the Boy’s and Girl’s Club of Hawai’i (BGCH) to teach 100 of Hawai’i’s keiki how to surf and bodyboard during the 14th Annual Duke’s Ocean Sports and Fitness Day. It was the perfect day to learn the “Sport of Kings”, with small glassy waves breaking along the shore of Kailua Bay, on Oahu’s typically

windy, windward shore. For most of the boys and girls this was their first opportunity to learn to surf, even though they have grown up in the birthplace of the sport. The lesson starts on the beach with expert instruction from Tammy Moniz of Faith Riding Company. Then each child is paired with a volunteer instructor, a soft surfboard or bodyboard and hits the water. The smiles were ear to ear and the shakas and high fives were flying as the kids shared their first waves, all in the spirit of Duke Kahanamoku. The Ocean Sports and Fitness Day provides a unique opportunity for BGCH members to spend a day learning beach and ocean sports along with health and fitness. Thanks to a grant from the ODKF the event is free for BGCH youth, and includes clubs from Ewa Beach, Honolulu, Kailua, Nanakuli and Waianae. With additional support from the Volcom Surf Team, Duane DeSoto and Na Kama Kai, and Vernon Podluski and his beach volleyball team, the kids spend the day rotating between surfing, body boarding, canoe paddling and beach volleyball. A special mahalo to the BGCH and their sponsors who help provide a positive, safe and heathy environment for over 14,000 of Hawaii’s youth. Mahalo to Volcom for providing lycra shirts to all the kids and volunteers, and to Dukes Waikiki and Jamba Juice Hawai’i who prepared lunch for the entire crew. Finally, a big mahalo to the ODKF for perpetuating the stoke and aloha of the Hawaiian surfing lifestyle through the spirit of Duke Kahanamoku.



NEWS & EVENTS /

20TH ANNUAL KEIKI SURF FOR THE EARTH By Beverly Bihasa The 20th Annual Keiki Surf for the Earth contest at Kohanaiki on the Big Island for kids under 14 was a roaring success. This year featured 120 entrants, each one treated with t-shirts and stainless steel water bottles to commemorate the event. The Keiki Surf for the Earth event includes bodyboard, shortboard, longboard and tandem events and this year also saw a new floating event, which brought many smiles and much laughter. Spectators watched as kids on inner tube devices shaped like slippers, dragons, mattresses and other characters had a blast catching waves in the bay on such non-traditional wave catchers! It was difficult to retrieve the kids from the water, as they truly love the ocean and they want to stay out and catch “just one more wave,” uncle! The kids and the whole community look forward to this annual event and everyone is very cooperative and filled with good sportsmanship. It is wonderful to see the kids enjoy the event with their families, and also to see those who have passed the age limit participate in helping run the event. Our thanks goes out to all the “Kohanaiki Ohana” who have promoted and coordinated this throughout the past 20 years, and appreciation for the future generations to continue this legacy. Kohanaiki Beach is a family place, and after many years of advocating to keep it that way, it is now officially a County Beach Park. We have been blessed to have a partnership with the adjoining landowners, the community and the county who share our enthusiasm in protecting it and keeping it a family place. Reverend Kahu Uncle Leon Sterling, one of the many founders of the event, reminds us to “E malamai ka aina… E malama ke kai… Aloha Kekahi I Kekahi.” Take care of the land, take care of the ocean and take care and love one another.



Kim Ball

NEWS & EVENTS /

Klyde Neer

MAUI INTERSCHOLASTIC LEAGUE SURFING By Kim Ball Klyde Neer, of Hana, and Sophia Johnston, of Maui Prep, swept the Boys and Girls Shortboard and Bodyboard titles at the Maui Interscholastic surf championship at Hookipa Beach Park, Maui on Saturday, April 25. Johnston led the Na Pueo girls to their first-ever MIL championship in any sport while Lahainaluna claimed its first Boys surfing title. Johnston’s teammates included Jessica Kingwell, Alexa Narayan, Layla Nabavi and Emma Scott. “Winning MIL has been our plan the whole season,” Johnston said. “I tried to rally up some of my buddies by telling them, ‘this could be our first-ever MIL championship’.” Maui Prep coach Andrew O’Riordan, a teacher at the school, points to Johnston as the catalyst for the team. “It’s really exciting to see surfing take off with Sophia Johnston’s leadership,” O’Riordan said. For Johnston it was her fourth straight MIL win this year in the Shortboard division, and third victory in Bodyboard. Klyde Neer competed in eight heats including back-to-back heats in the shortboard and bodyboard finals. His teammate, Zac Newton, exchanged boards with him in the water. “It was fun, getting more time in the water. I feel good, but kind of tired.” Neer completed an unbeaten bodyboard season by hitting the biggest El Rollos, and staying busy. “I was looking for different lips to just squeeze as many maneuvers as I could.” The Luna boys were led by Kala Willard’s second place finish in Shortboard and Abraham Olea’s fourth in Bodyboard. Cyan Clark made the semi-finals in Shortboard and Justice Jacinto did the same in Bodyboard. Lahainaluna coach Luke Adolfson said the Luna victory was a surprise. “It was shocking. It was a lot of hard work and it paid off.” This is the second year for Maui Interscholastic League surfing and thus far there have been four meets. DT Fleming on the westside, Lahaina Harbor on the south side, Koki Beach on the east side, and Hookipa on the north shore for the MIL Championship meet. Special thanks to Rusty, TS Restaurants, Dakine and Olukai for sponsoring the season.



S H O W

Lowe-White

NEWS & EVENTS /

N e w s & E vent s /

R O O M

BIKINIS, CLOTHES & ACCESSORIES

Shane Dorian

2015 WSL BIG WAVE AWARDS The world’s best big wave surfers gathered in Southern California for the 2015 WSL Big Wave Awards. The gala ceremony at the Grove Theater in Anaheim honored the greatest rides of the last year and honored the tenets of the big wave community. “It was another spectacular year of big wave surfing, all around the globe,” said Bill Sharp, Big Wave Award Event Director and Founder. “This year there is a complete assortment of countries where amazing waves were ridden. It might even be the most internationally represented season ever in the 15 years since I started the Big Wave Awards.” This year’s event was highlighted by the official crowning of last season’s WSL Big Wave Tour (BWT) Champion, Hawaiian Makuakai Rothman, who accepted via satellite from South America following his emphatic victory at the Quiksilver Ceremonial Chile at Punta de Lobos. Some 2,000 invited VIPs witnessed the awards ceremony in person and viewers worldwide tuned into the live streaming webcast of the entire proceedings.

2015 WSL Big Wave Awards Winners: 2014/15 ASP Big Wave Tour Champion: Makuakai Rothman (HAW) Tube of the Year: Matahi Drollet Photographer: Tim McKenna Billabong Women’s Best Overall Performance: Paige Alms (HAW) Wipeout of the Year Award: Benjamin Sanchis (FRA) Videographer: Michael Darrigade Brazilian Showroom Hawaii

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Island Hop Neighbor Island Tripping with Mokulele By Chris Latronic Isle hopping is an age-old tradition unique to those who grew up here in the Hawaiian Islands. Unlike the rest of the US, (aside from Alaska), Hawai’i is not in close proximity geographically to much anywhere else in the world… except for the neighboring islands that make up the state. It takes a lot of effort to make the trip outside of Hawai’i, but not so much if you take a little trip near home… Hence the ‘Island Hop’! The Dream or Theory of the Island Hop is simple... “If there are good waves somewhere else you literally hop on the plane to another island, surf there, hop to another island, surf there, hop back on the airplane and then you’re home,” describes Big Island surfer Ocean Donaldson Sargis. “Island hopping is always good. Especially when you’re young and when it’s for the children,” says Big Island native, CJ Kanuha. “As a kid, you have the opportunity to get out there and make a whole lot of new friends from all over the islands. Being able to surf different waves and being accustomed to learning new spots is amazing. Each island has its own special and unique feel, it’s own way and style of surfing.” Brodi Sale, another Big Island resident and grom surfer seconds CJ’s notion. “The main advantage is island hopping to the North Shore and getting to surf Pipe and Backdoor. Getting to know the reefs at different spots and meeting new people is always fun. On the Big Island there are not a lot of kids who surf internationally, but they’re on Oahu. So it’s cool to island hop and compete with those kids.” Kahanu Delovio is born and raised on the Big Island and loves living in Kona, but also enjoys getting away from home and flying over to a different island for surf. She recently experienced that sometimes, a delayed layover can turn into a delightful detour. “I love being able to island hop for a day. Flying over to Maui or Oahu to find some new waves. Recently we had a layover in Maui on our way to Oahu… We surfed for an hour on Maui, came back and continued our trip to Oahu.” We can’t think of a better way to spend a long layover.

Cody Young

40



Growing up or living in the islands for an extended amount of time, we are prone to the syndrome of “island fever” and get the obsessively undeniable urge to vacate the current situation (on your island) and get off the rock! Aloha Lopez and Summer Macedo live in small towns on Maui and agree adamantly with this sentiment. “Island hopping keeps me balanced,” states Aloha Lopez. “Being on one island gets old fast, so it’s nice to take a break and explore someplace else for a little bit.” Summer Macedo agrees. “Its very convenient to island hop. It comes in handy when we have contests to fly to or even when we just want to get away from home and go visit and hang out with friends.” Crucial to the development of Hawai’i professional surfers, island hopping is what catalyzed the successful surfing careers of marquee names like Shane Dorian, Andy & Bruce Irons, and many more. Seasoned junior standouts Keala Naihe, Cody Young, Brodi Sale and Logan Bedimol know the importance first hand and use it to their advantage.

Brodi Sale

Keoki Saguibo

ISLAND HOP /



Aloha Lopez

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ISLAND HOP /


“In Hawai’i, traveling for surf contests, you have to island hop to Oahu to surf the North Shore. You make friends on all the islands and they show you all the cool places to surf, grind and cruise,” says Kona boy Keala Naihe. “Island hopping literally got me started as a surfer,” explains Cody Young who hails from Makawao, Maui. “I came over to the North Shore on a dirt biking trip and my friend took me surfing at nice Ehukai sandbar. It was so fun and the feeling was so addicting, I immediately got the surf bug after that and have been stoked ever since.”

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Maui’s Logan Bediamol says island hopping is good for learning. “I feel like learning to surf well on the North Shore of Oahu is essential for being successful in the surfing world.”

Our Island hop adventure started right here at the epicenter of the state, Honolulu, Oahu. Instead of going to the main airport terminals like we usually do, our flight accommodations were taken care of by Mokulele Airlines, who not only sponsored this Freesurf expedition, but also our adamant stewards of youth surfing. Mokulele Airlines has put together a surf ambassador team of 20 juniors from across all islands, sponsoring them with free and easy island hopping access. On the first leg of the trip we were joined by Oahu junior standouts and Team Mokulele Airlines ambassadors Dylan Franzmann, Zoe McDougall and Tony Nunez for our first island hop destination: Kona, Big Island. “I love all the islands, they are all so beautiful,” says Zoe. “It’s great because they are all so close. Getting to a different island is almost like driving to town.” “Island hopping is great,” reiterates North Shore’s Dylan Franzmann. “You can check the swell maps and go to the next place that’s gonna be the best. I can be on Oahu and see a swell headed for Honolua Bay and be on the next flight ready to catch it.”


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Kain Daly

CJ Kanuha

The Mokulele Airlines flight to Kona was breathtaking! With huge windows all around the aircraft, it was a treat to view our islands with almost unhindered visibility. Flying over Maui, we broke through the clouds and ended up very close to the top of the dormant volcano crater, Haleakala. An incredibly unexpected sight, this was a magical experience to say the least yet a regular part of Mokulele’s usual flying route. Our descending approach revealed the majestic west side of the Big Island and the stunning Kona coast. With cruising altitudes well below a usual accommodation, there was plenty of pleasant time to relax and take in the sights. Hawai’i Island is the youngest of the island chain, which gives us a glimpse to what a lot of beaches and surf breaks once looked like at one point in their existence. Ocean Donaldson Sargis grew up surfing these waves and has a pretty good grasp on the matter. “Since Big Island is the newest island, all the reefs are not very soft or smooth. It’s more sharp and treacherous with recent lava flow activity still affecting the land and waves. The waves break very close to shore and are very boxy with no perfect drops, mostly air drops.” Kahanu Delovio continues the discussion. “Unlike Oahu’s stretched white sand beaches, Kona is more rocky with jagged reefs in between the layers of old lava. It makes the surf a lot more challenging but it’s still really fun. I think growing up surfing here has really helped to step up my game to the next level”

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Keale Naihe has been dealing with Big Island conditions his whole life. “The reef is really alive and kinda nuts sometimes. But you get comfortable and the next time you see a sandy beach break, you will definitely not hesitate to jump right in and charge.” Zoe McDougall is more accustomed to groomed spots, like the point breaks of North Shore Oahu, so she found it a bit tricky to surf in Kona. “I’m used to paddling out to a nice sandy beach where the wave is really long, but here the waves are short and wedgey with lots of lava rock.” Meeting up with pro surfer and international superstar CJ Kanuha is always an awesome pleasure, especially while in his hometown. CJ is pretty much the people’s mayor of Kona and knows everything there is to know about the Big Island and Hawaiian culture. From rapping about the creation of Hawai’i to his latest ‘projects’ in the works to his newest fishing techniques, CJ never ceases to beam positive vibes and knowledge. We asked him to explain the BI vibes. “The Big Island vibes are amazing here. We’re all about coming with respect and being about Aloha. Home is a like another country to me. We have good waves here and we make the best of it. Fishing, diving, hunting, shaping, surfing… This place makes you a very well rounded person living this kind of lifestyle and I’m very blessed to have grown up here.”



With a new south swell in town, everyone was headed to Kona’s go-to spot, Banyans. Keala Naihe sums it up pretty well. “Banyans is pretty much the epicenter for surf here in Kona. It’s our performance wave and venue for most of the comps. It’s always fun, everyone’s down there, and there’s always a buddy to surf with. All the uncles are always frying fish when you come in, you can’t beat that.” Summer Macedo from Maui describes her first surf experience in Kona. “Surfing Banyans for the first time was really tricky. It was weird going to another island and being out of your comfort zone in different surf scenarios. After doing it for a while you get used to it and then become more accustomed to adapting to new situations. I enjoy the challenge.” Watching the next generation rip from the rocky Kona beach, CJ Kanuha is pleased with what he sees. “We got some solid up and coming talent here on the Big Island. From Brodi Sale to Kahanu Delovio, we have some very talented young surfers. It’s cool to see that they also want to take their talents to the world and become surfing elites.” With the island hop trip only halfway over, our next destination was set for Maui. Hana, Maui to be exact. Located along the northeastern

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exposures of Maui, Hana is a semi-isolated town that happens to be one of the most lush and wettest areas in the world. After one visit to this place, there’s no denying that Hana is heaven. The most popular way to get to Hana is to drive in, which takes about 2 hours through a very windy road. Fortunately for us, Mokulele Airlines flies direct to their own landing strip at the Hana Airport right in the middle of town. With an easy 20-minute flight, there is no better way to preview Hana than flying over and directly into it. Departing from Kahului, we were able to see epic vistas of the entire northern Maui coast. From Ho’okipa to Peahi (Jaws) to the waterfalls of Hana, it was blissful sensory overload right up to landing at the Hana Airport. To be welcomed by the clean Hana valley air as we exited the aircraft was pleasantly invigorating. Kain Daly hails from Ku‘au, Maui and has a pretty good idea of what it’s like here in Hana. “Maui is the exact in between of Kauai & Oahu. It has a borderline city sort of like Oahu, but still has magical places like Hana that are lush, green, mellow and uncrowded with fun waves. Hana is the getaway. You come here to get away. But it’s a mission to get here. It’s a mission to getaway.”



Aloha Lopez shares mixed reviews, saying that Heaven can sometimes mean… hell? “Hana is a little tiny quiet town. If you ever want to get away from civilization, Hana is the place to go. There is nothing out here. The surf does get epic though. Either super good or the worst surf you’ll ever be in.” Malik Kamai Herdman is a local grom and likes that Hana is not ‘aggy’. “The Hana vibe is cruise. You’re super lax here, not all tense and aggravated in and out of the water. No one really has too big an ego.”

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Dylan Franzmann

“It’s not intense here, that’s why I like it,” Eli Hannemann agrees. “It always feels like everyone knows each other, like we are all friends, it’s very welcoming. The waves are super fun here with all kinds of different set ups.” Being away from his home in another foreign land, Dylan Franzmann was busy assessing and comparing wave conditions. “I live right by Rocky Point and surf it almost everyday, so I’m really used to reef breaks. So it was different to surf just sandbars in Hana. It’s a bit more windy but it’s all sand bottom with no rocks and a lot of consistent waves.”

Eli Hanneman

Tony Nunez

Keoki Saguibo

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Keoki Saguibo

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Ocean Macedo

Kain Daly has just graduated the junior competitive surfing ranks and is now busy chasing qualifying points in the WSL to one day qualify for the World Tour. Where Hana offers ever changing and challenging conditions, Kain finds the perfect training grounds. “The spots in Hana are really good training if you’re looking to grind it out on the QS. The trade winds make it always imperfect and onshore, the sandbar is never completely formed with some sections here and there… Very good for grinding and always a great workout.”

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After a few days of epic lodging at the Hana Estates with their pool, hot tub and 9 holes of golf, we were refreshed to make our way home to Oahu. Instead of flying out of Hana, we booked our flight out of Kahului Airport so we could enjoy the sights of the scenic and windy Hana drive out. Thinking a flight back to Oahu would be par with ordinary, we were once again surprised by the incredible sights viewed on our wide-windowed Mokulele flight. Flying over Molokai, we enjoyed a perfect view of the Northern Molokai Coast and stunning vistas of the eerie Kalaupapa peninsula. Before we knew it, we were directly over Oahu and landing in Barbers Point Airport on the southwest side of Oahu, another first time experience. Mahalos to Mokulele Airlines, Uncle Billy’s By The Bay and The Hana Estate for making this Island Hopping adventure possible, and to all the boys and girls who shared their Aloha and support throughout the trip.

Zoe McDougall

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THE GLOBAL WATERSPORTS & BEACH LIFESTYLE TRADESHOW

SEPTEMBER10-122015 BOARD DEMO DAY SEPTEMBER 9

ORLANDO, FLORIDA

The Global Watersports and Beach Lifestyle Tradeshow

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FOOTWEAR

PERFORMANCE


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Albee Layer drying off his fins. Photo: Dan Norkunas

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Shayden Dela Cruz Pacarro, adding more spray to the atmosphere. Photo: Shawn Pila



Kain Daly taking the scenic route. Photo: Tony Heff



CJ Kanuha. Rooted in Hawai‘i. Photo Ehitu Keeling


Keala Naihe, Big Island blowtail. Photo: Ehitu Keeling


There's something in the air on Maui... Matt Meola. Photo: Brent Bielmann



Cody Young, cranking. Photo: Marc Chambers



Shawn Pila

GROM REPORT / Do you have any nicknames? Peanut. What do you love most about surfing and being in the ocean? Catching big bombs.

Do you participate in any hobbies outside of surfing? Jiu-jitsu, diving, skateboarding and helping Uncle Skibs and Papa Skippa clean our local surf spots on the weekends.

Favorite surf spot? Pyramids. Favorite surfers? Shane Dorian, John John Florence, Kala Alexander, Keali’i Mamala and Makua Rothman. Describe yourself with five words. Solid. Brave. Charger. Talented. Diesel.

Have you ever traveled outside of Hawai’i for surfing? No. If you could travel anywhere in the world for a surf trip, where would it be? Australia and Tahiti. Hot or cold? Cold. Sweet or sour? Sweet.

Biggest wave you’ve ever charged? 6-feet Banyans the day of the Shane Dorian contest. Worst wipeout? At Banyans the day before the Shane Dorian contest. I got sucked over the reef and had to run up the rocks like an A’ama crab.

Fruits or Veggies? What is veggies? (haha, everyone laughs). LEGO’s or Mega Bloks? LEGO’s. Ninja Turtles or Power Rangers? Power Rangers! Batman or Ironman? Ironman.

By Shawn Pila

Hometown: Pepe’ekeo, HI DOB: January 30, 2006 Height/Weight: 4’0” / 60 lbs. Stance: Goofy Favorite Board: 4’4” Mana Lele Surfboards Sponsors: Basic Image Inc., Hilo Surfboard Co., North Shore Surf Shop, and Surf Design Hawai’i Instagram: @diesel808storm By the confidence in his stride you would think that this kid has been surfing for more than ten years, but 9-year-old Diesel Butts is just firing up. After only learning how to surf with his dad two days before his very first contest, Diesel won his division, took home a brand new surfboard and has been in love with the sport ever since. The humble Big Island native is known to be the youngest pintsized grom surfing second reef Honoli’i Point with the uncles, and although he probably can’t 66

get onto most rides at the county fair, you can definitely spot him throwing massive spray from a mile away in his bright green surfing outfit. So far Diesel has had awesome results, winning both the Honoli’i Paka Surfing Classic and Hakalau Bay Paka Surf Contest three years in a row. He placed 3rd in the Squids division at the Volcom Pufferfish in Kailua-Kona and won the Kickass Grom Award at the Pufferfish in Makaha. He also surfed his way to the HSA state championships multiple times and is feigning for more. With a name like Diesel Butts you’re bound to be a hammah.

What grade are you in and where do you go to school? I go to Kalanianaole Elementary School and I’m in the 3rd grade.

What is the worst smell in the world? The sewer.

Favorite type of music? ‘Island Child’ by Makua Rothman.

Favorite post session grindz? Poke, smoked salmon and poi.

If you were in a band what instrument would you play and why? The guitar because I like the sound.

Favorite pizza? Cheese.

Shawn Pila

DIESEL STORM NAINOA YOSHIO BUTTS

What inspires you the most? Watching the pros surf every morning on the surf channel.

If you could, what two animals would you combine? An iguana and a dog. Where do you see yourself in the next 5 years? Surfing with the Junior Pro’s. Any future goals? Be a pro surfer and win the Vans Triple Crown. Anyone you’d like to thank? Mahalo Uncle Skibs, Uncle Scott Murray, Uncle Liam McNamara, Uncle Saa, Uncle Robert Patterson, Uncle Shawn Pila and Uncle Chelsey Hanselman. Oh and follow me on Instagram @ diesel808storm !

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MATT MEOLA’S SPINDLE 540 In case you missed it, Matt Meola landed his first ever spindle 540 surfing at home on Maui. Only one camera was there to capture the footage. Freesurf: Was there a plan for this trick? Matt Meola: The spindle 540 is just the second generation of the spindle flip that I did a few years back. It’s the same move with a 540 rotation added in. I knew that it was possible for a while, but never seriously tried it. It just worked on that wave because it was such a good section. FS: Do the uncompleted tricks give you ideas for new ones? MM: I’m always thinking of new tricks. Sometimes a mistake on one thing can give you an idea on how to do something new. FS: Are you planning or practicing any new tricks? MM: Nothing specific in mind. It all depends on the conditions. If one day the waves seem really good for something then maybe I will try it. FS: Who inspires your surfing style? MM: My favorite surfer is John John. I surf with Albee and Barger all the time. I think we are a good little team. We constantly are encouraging each other and pushing each other to surf better. FS: What’s the next progression with airs? MM: It’s hard to say. I can’t wait to see what all the groms are doing in like 10 years. FS: When can we expect some more Matt and crew mysto footage? MM: We got a few little web edits that should be dropping really soon.


#MANULELE AWARDS 2 0 1 5

Celebrating the watermen and women of Hawai‘i

Hawai’i’s only surfer poll, the Manulele Awards returns this winter to feature multiple categories where YOU, the avid enthusiast, will have the chance to cast votes for your favorite surfer. First, Freesurf needs to complete the candidate phase. Check out our nominees online at freesurfmagazine.com. Did we leave anyone out? Now is the time to vote your top surfer in as a candidate! Be sure to stick around for the fun. Category voting begins late summer.

www.freesurfmagazine.com


ENVIRONMENT /

M A UN A K E A IN TH E OPE N By Freesurf

It’s the tallest mountain on earth, home to some of the world’s most advanced astronomical observatories, and Hawai’i’s largest and perhaps most revered heiau (temple). Mauna Kea stands tall on the island of Hawai’i at around 33,000 feet from the ocean floor. Considered the “piko,” or center, of the island, her natural beauty demands attention from almost anyone who crosses her path- from avid hikers to snowboarders, from astronomers to native Hawaiian cultural practioners. However, during the past year, Mauna Kea has been attracting a different

kind of attention after a group of self-proclaimed “protectors” of the mountain successfully halted a groundbreaking ceremony for the $1.4 billion Thirty Meter Telescope (TMT) project. Since then, a movement to protect the mountain from further development has spread around the world with no end in sight. News about The Mauna Kea Movement began making headlines on October 7, 2014 when a couple hundred protesters used civil disobedience to block off the road leading to the mountain’s summit. The action stopped a caravan of University of Hawai’i officials, astronomers, media and TMT project advocates from their ceremony.


The protest was small, but powerful. The story about what happened on Mauna Kea that day went viral, spreading across social media and featured on major news outlets such as NPR and The New York Times. Word about the movement surfaced again in March of this year, when more demonstrators stopped TMT construction crews from heading up the mountain. A few days later on April 2, police arrested 31 individuals for blocking the road. Professional surfer and former Kauai mayor candidate Dustin Barca

was among those arrested. He, like others, took to social media to shed light on the dramatic episode. “Divide and conquer is the way of the oppressor, $$$ local police told they would lose their jobs if they wouldn’t arrest their own Ohana?!?!?” he wrote on his Instagram account below a picture of a single protester sitting down while a swarm of police stood in front of him. Barca’s picture of the protest and many more posted by social media users representing the #WeAreMaunaKea hash tag helped to advertise the debate, turning what started out as a local issue into an international controversy.


In recent months, fans of the movement and support for the protection of Mauna Kea have voiced their opinions publicly, including celebrities. Surfing pro Kelly Slater, along with “Game of Thrones” actor Jason Momoa, “Lost” actor Ian Somerhalder, former UFC world champion BJ Penn, and actress Rosario Dawson published pictures of themselves with the words “We Are Mauna Kea” written on their bodies in an attempt to spread awareness about the issue and reel in signatures for an online petition to stop the TMT project. With their clout, they’ve helped to influence outsiders on the issue of Mauna Kea. What is the Mauna Kea issue?

Hawai’i became a state in the 1959. At the time, ceded lands were returned to the state of Hawai’i and placed in a public trust. The Mauna Kea Science Reserve, where TMT will be constructed and other telescopes currently exist, sits on these ceded lands. In 1968, the Institute for Astronomy, established by the university and astronomers, requested a 65-year-lease for all land above 12,000 feet elevation that later became known as the Mauna Kea Science Reserve. Eager to use the mountain’s pristine view of the sky, astronomers built the first telescope by 1968. Another telescope was constructed a year later, and another in 1970. By 1983, there were six telescopes on the mountain and by the 2000’s, 13 telescopes sat atop of Mauna Kea.

In Native Hawaiian tradition, Mauna Kea is sacred ground. The upper regions of Mauna Kea are said to reside in Wao Akua, the realm of the Akua, or Creator. The mountain is considered the temple of the “Supreme Being,” acknowledged as such in many oral and written histories throughout Polynesia.

Throughout the years of what some would call rapid astronomical development on Mauna Kea, environmentalists became worried about the impact of construction to the mountain’s delicate ecosystem while Native Hawaiians worried about protecting their sacred land.

Home to the divine, Mauna Kea is said to be the meeting place of Papa (Earth Mother) and Wakea (Sky Father), who are considered the progenitors of the Hawaiian people. In tradition, it is the place where the Sky and the Earth separated to form the Great-Expanse-of-Space and the Heavenly Realms.

In response, the Department of Land and Natural Resources began laying out various comprehensive management plans beginning in 1977. These plans aimed at addressing a wide-range of issues to protect various endangered and delicate life on the mountain and attempted to protect Mauna Kea’s cultural and archaeological sites.

Fast-forward to January 16, 1893, when the United States military supporting American businessmen and missionary interests occupied the islands. Hawaiian Queen Lili’uokalani declared the invasion an act of war, but with little military force of her own she ended up yielding the kingdom of Hawai’i over to the U.S. government. Several years later, U.S. annexed Hawai’i and took over more than 1.8 million acres of the crown and public lands without consent.

Another master plan, The Mauna Kea Comprehensive Management Plan, was developed in 2009, again in an attempt to layout boundaries for building on the mountain and ways to recognize and support Hawaiian culture.

The debate over statehood is an emotionally charged issue with some Hawaiians advocating that the Kingdom be completely restored, while others search for more diplomatic methods of recognition with the federal government. Nevertheless, the history of America’s involvement with Hawai’i is essential to the Mauna Kea debate.

Currently, there’s an Office of Mauna Kea Management that is charged with overseeing the mountain and seeking input from the public, but some argue these actions are a “smoke and mirrors” attempt while others commend the state and university for attempting to address the concerns of the public. Regardless, it did not stop organizations such as the Sierra Club and Hawaiian cultural practioners from voicing their opinion that development on Mauna Kea needs to come to end. Under the lease’s terms for the science reserve, the university is allowed to build in the area but must abide by strict rules, such as not damaging or defacing anything of monumental or historical value. If the terms

Ehitu Keeling

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to advocate for Hawaiian participation in a field of science that continues to enable that tradition and a field in which we ought to lead. I firmly believe the highest level of desecration rests in actions that remove the opportunity and choices from the kind of future our youth can own,” he said in a letter published in West Hawai’i Today. On the other side, protectors argue too much damage has already been done and the university and state cannot be trusted. “A’ole TMT,” they say. Protesters have been camped out on the mountain for more than 40 days since the arrests occurred. Only a skeleton crew remains, but the fight is far from over. are broken, then the state Board of Land and Natural Resources could reclaim the summit. Many of the protesters are arguing that the TMT telescope, set to be one of the largest in the world, ranging 18 stories high plus 20 ft. below ground, would violate that term. Construction for TMT will impact more than 5 acres, about four football fields. (The average football field is 1.32 acres) TMT attempted to address these issues with environmental impact statements and a $17 million decommissioning plan that would pay for the restoration of the environment after the facility was pau. But protesters are arguing that’s an approach similar to Germany’s invasion of Poland; they’re walking in backwards saying they’re leaving. Despite these efforts, some say it’s not enough and several individuals have taken their argument to the courts. They intend to take their case all the way to the Supreme Court if needed. Another area of contention is the fact that the Office of Hawaiian Affairs (OHA), established in 1978, receives 20 cents to ever dollar made on ceded lands so that money made from the use of those lands can go towards improving the lives of the Native Hawaiian community. Many of the current telescopes are leased for $1 a year; meaning OHA receives only 20 cents per telescope. TMT’s lease costs currently $300,000 a year.

That amount would increase incrementally to around $1 million when operations begin with 80 percent of those funds going to Office of Mauna Kea Management and 20 percent to OHA. Recently, however, OHA voted to rescind their support of the project in response to public outcry. From then to now: two very different view points Those who are in support of TMT are arguing the telescope will bring much-needed jobs to the local economy, provide educational benefits to Hawai’i Island children and provide a once-ina-lifetime opportunity to search for the answers to the mysteries of the universe. The project has dedicated a fund of $1 million a year to scholarships and education for Hawai’i Island students involved in science, technology, math and engineering. TMT will also include an advanced optics system capable of seeing further into the universe than any other telescope on the mountain. In a letter to a local newspaper, Chad Kalepa Baybayan, a captain and navigator of various Hawaiian voyaging canoes such as Hokulea, wrote a compelling argument in favor of the project. “As a Hawaiian, I recognize I am a descendant of some of the best naked-eye astronomers the world has known. It is culturally consistent

Hawai’i Island resident and mother of two, Pamela Leslie, said the movement has been a learning experience for her and her children. “What I would hope my keikis would get out of this movement is to fight for what we believe in. We all need to come together as one, and this movement has brought the world together.” What will happen next Letters arguing both sides of the argument are sent daily to the local newspapers and if one thing is clear, it’s that finding a middle ground may be next to impossible. Construction for TMT has since been postponed. Hawai’i Gov. David Ige issued a “timeout” on construction in early April following the arrests and again made an announcement on April 17, three days before the construction was slated to begin again, that TMT project managers decided to postpone construction until further notice. Since then, outreach efforts have taken place but it’s still uncertain as to when, or if ever, construction for TMT will start. First light is expected in 2024, but only time will tell. The TMT Observatory Corp. based in Pasadena, Calif. will oversee the project. Partners include universities and astronomy institutions in United States, India, China and Japan. pau



Shawn Pila

LIVING PONO /

INFINITE EDIBLES By Shawn Pila I’m sure that most of us who like to eat our vegetables have at some point thought it’d be cool to grow food in the backyard. Maybe after watching some epic documentary, you got all inspired and thought, “I’m gonna go grow me a garden!” So you build a planter box, fill it with dirt, throw some seeds in, get excited. Then a few weeks later the excitement wears off and all that’s left is a bed full of weeds. Yeah it happens, but now there is a solution. Introducing the all new, Infinite Edibles. This is a start-up company based out of the Big Island that delivers trays of ready-to-eat organic lettuce and greens to people’s homes. It’s like a milkman that delivers an organic mini-garden that you keep in your kitchen to produce fresh greens for the dinner table, and every two weeks you can swap out your garden for any of the other edible selections that they offer. According to creators, the most attractive element about Infinite Edibles is the convenience of having farm fresh veggies growing right on your doorstep. “The whole goal behind Infinite Edibles is to provide a product that is really vital and appealing in terms of the way it looks, as well as the way it tastes,” explains Chris Jacobsen, co-owner and green thumb specialist. “We are really trying to go with that premium quality with a really nutrient dense idea.”

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Chris and partner Derek Supnet created the idea because they saw the need to provide those with a busy lifestyle—who’d lost the connection to healthy living—a diverse pallet of fresh food. They recognized that people eat with their eyes as well as their taste buds, and so strived to grow an aesthetically appealing, nutritious, and delicious product. There’s that “slow food” movement where people are returning to the idea of home cooked meals, and Infinite Edibles is just an extension of that. You know who’s growing your food and you know the values the farmers have who are growing it. “We have found that our products and service have helped assist people to make better food choices and improve their lifestyle because our living foods are convenient, fresh and continually renewed. Our customers are now beginning to see how small choices over time really make a difference,” Chris says. For Chris, this idea springs from a deeper connection that people have lost. We become lost in the modern world about how we are living and are disconnected in a major way. Each platter is a living edible flower arrangement that can sit as a centerpiece on your dining room table, giving you a deeper connection with your food and really appreciating the value in it. And that’s where the magic of food consumption comes in.



Shawn Pila

LIVING PONO /

INFINITE EDIBLES With good—and beautiful—food sitting right there on the table, it’s not just important that we eat well, but that we teach future generations how to appreciate good food too. “We are teaching our kids that this food is not coming from the supermarket or even imported from who knows where, but actually coming from your front doorstep,” says Derek. “And that connection for children is really creating a more down-to-earth entity. We are actually seeing it grow.” With sustainability always in mind, Infinite Edibles lessens their carbon footprint by reusing their potting media blends and plastic trays, eliminating all packaging materials. Custom media blends are made up of macadamia nut, coconut husk and cinder, and are rejuvenated with compost teas, minerals, kelp, EM and other beneficial microorganisms during a resting and light composting period, prior to re-use. The recycling of soil also allows the team to break down and manage the sterility and fertility of the soil. All methods align with and exceed best practices for food

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safety, which ensures a pest-free and rat lungworm-free environment. (Rat Lungworm is a disease that slugs carry in their slime trail.) Infinite Edibles is a subscription-based business with a diverse menu of veggies for every meal. The most popular is the salad platter, which includes three different types of organic lettuce. They also offer an Asian stir-fry platter, which includes bok choy, kale, mustard greens, wasabi greens and collard greens. Also in the works is an herb platter and a micro-greens salad-topper platter. Add-ons can also be included with long-term crops such as eggplant, vine ripened tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and other seasonal products such as dressings and sauces. All subscriptions start at 60 dollars a month and include four delicious platters; two at the beginning of the month and two mid-month. Produce can either be delivered for an extra fee or picked up at a central location. “With so many options, there’s a little something for everyone,” says Derek.

“Our clients that we service right now are really stoked not only on the platters themselves but on the added seasonal options that they get to sample, like peppers and jalapeños for Cinco de Mayo. Through social media we have seen a lot of interest, sharing of recipes and utilization of the product when it is used at parties or family gatherings.” Hopefully, that sense of gathering and connection, just like you’d have at a family party, doesn’t just stop at the dinner table. Derek hopes to one day create a whole lifestyle where connecting people with their food and culture extends out into the world. So when the waves are firing and your workload is completely maxed out, leave it to the farmers to add more to your plate. For more information on organic produce and how to subscribe, visit www.infiniteedibles.com.

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PAU HANA /

LIVING THE LIQUID ALOHA LIFESTYLE With Rebecca Villegas By Lauren Rolland Career title: Hawai’i Marketing Manager, Kona Brewing Company Hometown: Kailua-Kona Quote to live by: He ike ana ia i ka pono. See the right thing to do and do it What do you get when you combine a fun-loving personality with a degree in Business Management, a deep love for the ocean and roots on the Big Island? Someone who balances professionalism with adventure,

“Kona Brewing Company recognizes and honors the connectivity of our islands and its people to riding in and on the surf,” describes Villegas. “We’ve made it part of our business and marketing strategy to support organizations, events, fundraisers, and athletes who live the Liquid Aloha lifestyle. Surfing is a big part of that lifestyle and ties us all to the waters we cherish so dearly.” An ocean loving island girl herself, Rebecca began as a waitress at Kona Brewing Company restaurant in 2002 and moved up the ranks quickly. Rebecca likes to refer to her wide variety of work experience as “servant of all and master of none.” From accounting to payroll to human resources and even emceeing a Trash Fashion Show in a handmade ring leader costume, the Big Island native has worn nearly every hat in the company. Although the influential female doesn’t clock as much water time as she did in the past, longboarding is still one her favorite hobbies, along with crafting jewelry, shell searching, interior decorating, sewing, writing, photography and much more. Balancing work and life may seem hard with a career as consuming as Rebecca’s, but when it has to do with beer and travel in Hawai’i, it sure seems to take the edge off things. Read on for an insightful interview into the working world of Rebecca Villegas, and find out what a day in the life of Kona Brewing Company’s Marketing Manager is like. As marketing manager for Kona Brewing Co., tell us what a normal work day looks like for you.

a person who seeks to find fulfillment through dedication. We’re talking about none other than Ms. Rebecca Villegas, Kona Brewing Company’s Hawai’i Marketing Manager. While you may not recognize this wahine by name, I’m sure you’re familiar with the product she stands behind… tanned Hawaiians paddling down the face of a Big Wave Golden Ale, an outrigger setting sail on the bottle of a Castaway Pale Ale, classic longboarders cruising Queens… For all you readers over the age of 21, Kona Brewing Co.’s beers are likely a familiar logo.

When I’m in the office, I spend most of my day on the phone or emailing. My primary focus usually includes coordinating sponsorships, reviewing donation requests, managing Hawai’i media, and outlining future programs or promotions. Thankfully communication and connectivity are two of my passions, so nurturing relationships from inception to execution is fun and fulfilling. When I’m on the road for work, no two days are ever the same. However, the most common denominator would be sweat equity. Being a “hands on” partner means helping haul kegs, set up tents, hang banners and pour beer. This week I’ll spend an evening at the Hawai’i Volcano National Park for the National Geographic Bio Blitz Reception. I’m forever amazed at where representing Liquid Aloha takes me.


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PAU HANA / REBECCA VILLEGAS How did you get to where you are now? Were you always in the beverage industry? I’ve had a variety of jobs between high school and now. I like to think of it as exploring the demographics of my happiness. From retail work for Patagonia in San Francisco, to teaching environmental education to inner city kids, it’s been an adventure getting to where I am now. Waiting tables and cocktailing provided a more lucrative supplemental income

Last summer I took Maiana to Bali for a “working” vacation. We stayed with a host family in Ubud while participating in a volunteer program doing construction and renovation at a local school. Being immersed in a foreign culture and sharing that experience with my daughter was magical. After our volunteer program, we had two weeks to explore more of Bali. We surfed a bit. However, triple overhead Padang Padang was way out of our league. Instead we filled our days with

Tell us about your other surf related careers, like being event organizer for the Keiki Surf for the Earth event. How did you first get into this and what’s been the progression of the event over the years? As President of the Kohanaiki Ohana, part of my responsibility is helping to coordinate and host the Keiki Surf for the Earth and Beach Clean Up at Kohanaiki Beach Park. I’d been a member of the non-profit since I was in high school. When I came home from college and was asked to step into a leadership role, I accepted the honor and consider it my kuleana. Working with a dedicated team of parents and community members, we’ve successfully perpetuated the mission and recently celebrated our 20th anniversary this past May of 2015. This contest is focused on sportsmanship, education and community participation. It’s been a blessing and an honor to watch generations of young watermen and waterwomen participate in the contest.

through many of those years. What was the worst job you ever had? Retail wasn’t ever bad, but it got boring. You seem to have a busy travel schedule. Is it mostly work related or for pleasure? Most of my travel is for work. Some months it can be tough to be gone so much. However, in the summer I take my daughter, Maiana, whenever possible. We’ve been on amazing adventures, met phenomenal people, and explored these stunning islands we’re so lucky to call home. What’s the best work trip you’ve ever been on? I’ve been on some pretty amazing trips for work, so it’s hard to name just one. Living on the Big Island means traveling to other islands for most of the events we sponsor. Some of my favorites include the I HeArt the Ocean Sustainable Coastlines Fundraiser, the Molokai 2 Oahu Paddleboard World Championships, Duke’s Oceanfest and the Surfrider Foundation’s John Kelly Awards.

Who is your favorite surfer and why? Rell Sunn was the iconic Hawaiian water woman. Even more than being an amazing surfer and ambassador for Hawai’i, she was a mother, a teacher, an organizer, and mentor to her community. She left us too soon, but her legacy lives on. Though I know I’ll never be able to surf as gracefully, I hope to one day contribute as integrally to my community and island home.

other adventures like diving with mantas, riding elephants, and mountain biking down a volcano. This was by far the best trip of my life…so far…I’m still dreaming of returning to Bali someday soon… How often do you get in the water these days? I’m humbled to admit that my ocean time has dwindled over the last 10 years. However, my passion for time immersed in liquid embrace remains deeply entrenched in my soul. I’m confident that at some point life’s commitments will ease and flow, allowing me more free time to return to the sea.

What’s the best part about working for a beer company? The relationships are the best part. Beer is a beverage that has been drawing people together for thousands of years. I’m so grateful to work for a Brewery that was born and raised in Hawai’i, just like me. While I never set out to work for a brewery, it’s a universal medium that has allowed me to work with and support nonprofits, community groups, cultural groups and world renowned athletic events. It’s being a positive contributor, personally and professionally, to the people of Hawai’i that brings me the most joy. pau



Brent Bielmann

BOOK REVIEW /

JUST ADD WATER

By Lauren Rolland

It’s rare we as surf fans get an inside look into the lives of our favorite athletes. Sure we can follow them on Instagram, browse their Facebook updates or read the latest feature in the magazines, but when it comes to the trials and tribulations of their day-to-day realities, most of us are not privy to the nitty gritty details. I think there is something to be said about bringing to light the challenges that surfers face, especially when it comes in the form of an inspiring story. Anyone who knows surfing is no stranger to Clay Marzo’s name. Aside from being one of the most innovative surfers of modern day, the 25-year-old is also notorious for popularizing the reverse throw-tail aerial and taking the Hawai’i amateur and NSSA National Championship events by storm when he was in his early teens. Clay’s surfing has always spoken louder than his words. In 2007 the Maui bred athlete was diagnosed with Asperger Syndrome, a form of autism that impairs basic social and communication skills. Until then, Clay’s idiosyncrasies and savant-like focus with surfing had always been misunderstood. His unique personality was alluring to some, like his Quiksilver sponsors and friends, yet deterring to others, like teachers in the public school system.

No other article or feature articulates the story better than Robert Yehling’s, Just Add Water, the tell-all biography about one of Maui’s best freesurfers. An award-winning surf journalist, Robert Yehling illustrates Clay’s story from the start, the very start, when mom Jill Marzo was three weeks overdue in her pregnancy and mentions, “It makes sense in a lot of ways when you think about who he is today. I mean, he was already in the water by the time he was two weeks old.” Yehling sets the biography up in classic form, beginning with Clay’s toddler years, leading up to elementary and middle school, and culminating during his pro career with Quiksilver, which got serious after signing a four-year contract with a six-figure salary in 2008. The book weaves in “Just Add Water”, the 50-minute surf documentary about Clay’s life produced by Quiksilver, and comes to a close on the note of contentment and happiness in one’s own skin. Yehling takes the reader into the intimate family dynamic of the Marzo’s life in Puamana, Maui and the interworkings of Clay’s career as a professional surfer. Revealing the realities of what it’s like to cope with a developmental disorder, Yehling gets inside not only the mind of Clay, but also into the personal thoughts of his mother, (Jill), father, (Gino), brother, Cheyne Magnusson, Strider Wasilewski and Jamie Tierney, among many others.

From struggles in school and social anxieties to sibling envy and competition in the industry, Yehling weaves a play-by-play description of Clay’s life as he becomes a gifted surfer. Each chapter slowly builds up to the moment in time that changed the Marzo’s understanding of Clay – the day when Quiksilver’s former director of film and online content, Jamie Tierney, finally put a finger on Clay’s personality and behavior, which was later confirmed by medical specialists. After the diagnosis, a cloud lifted for the Marzo’s. There seems to be an undeniable thread that brings the whole biography together, something that everyone is likely familiar with. The feeling of being misunderstood is an emotion everyone can relate to, especially as young people, and it’s a fundamental lens that Clay sees through every single day. Because Yehling is able to present the inner thoughts of each character in the book, the reader is able to see that everyone, from Clay to Jill to Gino to Strider, are all just trying to feel like they’re doing the right thing by society’s standards, while also using a personal compass. Just Add Water is an intriguing read for any surfer, and details the life of Clay Marzo with tact and illumination. Writing the biography of one of Hawai’i’s most exceptional surfers is a great responsibility, and Yehling did so in a very real and raw way that captures the readers’ attention. The story is insightful and sheds a realistic view of Clay’s life as a surfing savant. pau


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QUESTIONS WITH SAA TAMBA

On the small Garden Isle of Kauai, it’s easy to spot Tamba; stickers on stop signs, locals sporting Tamba tees, surfers repping the brand on their boards. The small biz has been around for 16 years and is a core surf brand that many Kauai locals are proud to represent. Now Tamba has made its way to Oahu, setting up shop in the bustling town of Haleiwa. Painted bright yellow and red, it’s hard to miss on Kamehameha Highway, so next time you’re nearby, be sure to stop in and say hi to the friendly dude behind the counter. Saa Ginlack, owner of Tamba, will be there waiting to offer you a smile and a sticker.

1. What is Tamba and how did the name originate? Tamba is my middle name, it’s African. My parents were in the peace corps and they meet in Liberia, Africa where the chief of the tribe had a hand in hooking them up together. So when they came back to Kauai, got married, and had me, they named me after chief Tamba. 2. Tell us about your roots on Kauai. I was born on the westside of Kauai, then

moved to the eastside when I was in first grade. Pretty much grew up like any typical local boy back then - riding BMX, fishing, diving, playing sports and trying to fight chickens small kine… I started off boogie boarding and then surfing, but it was different back then. You just surfed for fun, it wasn’t so serious like it is now. I think that’s one thing I really miss about surfing - the stoke you share by just having fun! 3. Why did you start a surf shop and what’s life like as a business owner? I don’t really know why I wanted to start a surf shop, but it was something I wanted to do ever since I was a small kid. At first it was just a challenge to try and make it happen, not really knowing I was going to be successful at it. I had no retail experience at all, I just went for it, sold my Harley-Davidson and maxed out a credit card and started off with $20k. It was kind of weird at first, I thought you could call up a company like Quicksilver or Billabong and say, ‘hey I’m trying to open a small surf shop and would like to buy your products to put in my store.’ I thought they would be stoked on a new shop, but then I realized I wasn’t talking to surfers on the phone… they were business people. The fact that the surf industry is like any other big corporation was a big reality check for me. I think that is why I only carry my own product in

my store. To me, it’s a representation of a real surf brand that’s still owned and run by local people. 4. How does your Kauai shop differ from the Oahu one? Both stores have pretty much the same concept, but I think the Oahu one is starting to be a little different. On Kauai, I’ve been in business for 16 years now and am very established there. In Haleiwa, we are surrounded by so many killer surf shops already, so the competition is fierce. It’s also different because there are so many tourists, and I’m finding out that I may need to tweak my business a little to try and get their support. On Kauai, 75% of my business is local so I’m still learning so much just by being here (Oahu). But I really like it here in Haleiwa, it reminds me of home a lot, especially in the morning time. It’s really just an old plantation-style town filled with nice local people with a simple life. 5. What’s on the horizon for Tamba? When I was a bit younger I really wanted to have a bunch of stores and try and shake up the surf industry. But now, having a successful business, I want to try and give back more to my community instead of just taking. I want to receive, and in order to receive you have to give... pau


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SURF ART /

LOCAL KINE By Lauren Rolland

Plate Lunch: \’plat ‘lunch\ noun: Hawaiian classic- 2 scoops rice, one scoop macaroni salad (or toss salad sometimes), plus one kind meat. Can be teri beef, bbq chicken, chicken katsu, mahimahi, kalbi, etc. Unique to Hawai’i. Original. Undeniably local. The same can be said about Maui’s newest apparel and accessories brand, also known as Plate Lunch. Lately we’ve been seeing their logo and unmistakable patterns around the island; on stop signs, SR5 bumpers, and in boutiques like Greenroom Gallery, so it’s safe to say that a new definition of Plate Lunch is on the rise in Hawai’i. Founded on the North Shore of Maui in June 2013, brothers Cory & Gregg Kaplan spearheaded the company with the mission of making a Hawai’i based surf/skate/lifestyle brand that stayed true to their born-and-raised roots. “Previous to Plate Lunch we were both working at Dakine helping to run their surf program alongside Micah Nickens and Mike Madlener,” explains the brothers. “We were stoked to be part of such a rad team and company, but felt it was time to break away in order to see our vision come to life.” Featuring original art by Gregg himself, Plate Lunch has an aloha vibe that emanates through their prints and patterns. While Gregg mentions that the inspiration behind the art comes from a variety of sources, the duo mostly attributes it to growing up here in Hawai’i. “We are blessed to be surrounded by so much natural beauty, both in the water and on the land.”

It’s easy to see the roots of their inspiration - just check out the line of Plate Lunch Aloha Shirts and you’ll see trends of tapa and tribal blending with unique lines found only in Hawai’i. Reflecting the surf lifestyle, Gregg & Cory say that Plate Lunch is a likeness of all the things that make Hawai’i so special. “Surfing, skating, and art have always been a part of our lives, so it seems only natural that we build our brand around that,” the brothers agree. Check out Freesurf’s Q&A with Plate Lunch masterminds, Gregg & Cory Kaplan, and be sure to check out their instagram @platelunchspecial and online shop at platelunch.com. Freesurf: What is surf art to you? Plate Lunch: Art and surfing share many of the same characteristics and qualities. Our favorite forms of both have a lot to do with being creative, pushing the limits, and doing your own thing. Shaping boards, fin and accessory designs, painting, photography, films, music, even just the way some people choose to live can all be considered an art and have all had a huge influence on surfing and surf culture as we know it today. FS: Which surf artists are you inspired by and why? PL: We’re inspired by a long list of surfing’s most innovative, stylish, and unique personalities for a variety of reasons. Here’s a few that come to mind...


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SURF ART /

Eddie Aikau, Ben Aipa, Dick Brewer, Bruce and Bud Brown, Woody Brown, Ben Brough, Thomas Campbell, Andy Davis, Jeff Devine, Miki Dora, John John Florence, Leroy Granis, George Greenough, Rick Griffin, Yusuke Hanai, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Rob Kaplan, Rabbit Kekai, Gerry Lopez, Clay Marzo, Jack McCoy, Matt Meola, Bob Ole, John Severson, Rell Sunn, Donald Takayama, and Joel Tudor. FS: What is the dynamic between the work duo? PL: As brothers we got to grow up cruising together on a daily basis. A lot of the time it’s the balance of our almost opposite personalities that makes it work so well. Play > scrap > work it out > start over, good times for sure. At the end of the day we are both trying to do the same thing and are stoked to still be hanging after nearly 30 years. FS: Do you get much water time in these days? PL: Yeah for sure! We try to surf or be in the water whenever we can. It helps that everyone in our family loves surfing, so most family time is spent down at the beach. FS: Favorite wave? PL: Ho’okipa is our favorite wave. This is where we grew up running around the beach and where our Dad taught us how to surf. There has always been a heavy crew of guys down there shredding, along with some serious cruise sesh’s going down by the uncles... It’s been fun seeing it go full circle and getting to watch the next generation start to push the limits of what is possible on a surfboard. It’s crazy how good they all are these days... Yeah groms! FS: What’s in the near future for Plate Lunch? PL: We’re excited about our new Summer 15 line dropping this June. It features a bunch of rad gear including our newest “Made in Hawai’i” aloha shirts in our signature “Jungle Cuts” print! We will be heading over to California for a month or so as well this summer. We’ll be over there trying to score some south swells, skating some fun parks and spreading choke aloha. While we are out there we’ll be releasing our new line and getting on some art show vibes with our friends at Thalia Surf Shop on July 2. If you’re in the zone, cruise down for some good times and ono grinds! We also have some killer collaborations coming up... - Island Fin Design X Plate Lunch - Coming soon. - Super Brand X Clay Marzo X Plate Lunch signature boards - Releasing in July. - Stance X Plate Lunch collection of Hawai’i only socks - Releasing at the end of summer. - Fitted Hawai’i X Plate Lunch - Coming soon. pau


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INDUSTRY NOTES

Jamie O’Brien is back for a fifth season of the highly successful web series “Who Is JOB.” In the season premiere, the boys take it to the next level on the SUPsquatch, catching XXL size bombs at Sunset Beach and Makaha on the oversized stand-up paddle board. You won’t believe your eyes once you see what North Shore Hawai’i local Jamie O’Brien and his supporting cast of friends and misfits are up to this time around. Chris Dunn, CEO of Surftech announced that Surftech and NSP have joined forces in a distribution agreement for the US that will commence on July 14th, 2015. The transition moves NSP away from their current distribution partner in a move that will expand their reach in the US market. “This is an exciting new time for Surftech,” says Dunn. “It’s our objective to continue to present US retailers with a complete line of high quality surf and SUP retail products.” As two of the largest designers and suppliers of Surf and Stand Up Paddleboards globally, Surftech and NSP offer a diverse range of boards and brands to suit every level and discipline of surfer and stand up paddler. In other news, congratulations to surfer Dane Reynolds and girlfriend Courtney Jaedtke (@napkinapocalypse) as they welcomed a baby boy in early 126

May. Named Sammy Boo Reynolds, the parents are proudly sharing images of the newborn on Instagram. Rusty Long’s The Finest Line: The Global Pursuit of Big Wave Surfing hit bookshelves and is the perfect collection of photos and stories for any surfer. Big wave fans will be awe-struck by this stunning coffee table book, which captures the essence of the sport through breathtaking images and words, as well as exclusive interviews with the surfers who play the starring roles during these rare, large-swell events. Pro surfers Greg Long and Alex Gray are working with nonprofit Sustainable Surf to raise environmental awareness in the surf industry and encourage surfers to adopt a greener lifestyle. Sustainable Surf is a California-based non-profit charity organization founded by social entrepreneurs, whose mission is to be the catalyst that transforms surf culture and industry into a powerful community that protects the ocean playground. Red Bull Party Wave, the competition challenging creative teams to ride the best wave as a team, will return to the shores of Waikiki’s Queen’s Beach on Saturday, July 12. Bringing a concept of fun, creativity, and ingenuity back to the summer surf mecca that is Waikiki Beach, Red

Bull Party Wave will challenge teams to create, build, and then collectively ride a wave on their man-made vessel. Adding to the challenge, they’ll be judged on craft, creativity and showmanship, encouraging teams to choreograph humorous and captivating skits on the beach prior to paddling out. Teams can apply to compete in the 2nd annual Red Bull Party Wave at redbull.com/PartyWave.

The 37th Annual Da Hui Paddle Race is happening this 4th of July, which is a great way to celebrate the holiday in Hawai’i! This year, Da Hui is excited to announce the addition of OC-1 & OC-2 craft to the 7-mile long course from Turtle Bay to Waimea Bay. This will add more excitement and a new level of fun competition to the event! The Da Hui Paddle Race is a first come first serve event, so be sure you register online now at dahuipaddlerace.com. The Heather Brown art show is taking place at Wyland Galleries Haleiwa on June 20th, from 2-5pm. Don’t miss the opportunity to meet the famed surf artist! Local noni beverage company, Hawaiian Ola, welcomes Kauai native and surfer girl Mainei Kinimaka to their team of surf ambassadors. At 16 years old,

Mainei has been competing since she was 10 years old and is making a name for herself in regional events. Daughter of waterman Titus Kinimaka, Mainei is a humble soul with grace beyond her years. Stay cool this summer with Volcom’s Hawaiian Block Boardshort (MSRP $60). 21” outseam boardshort with Volcom’s recycled 4-way stretch blend. The Hawaiian Block has a side zip pocket, engineered print and Volcom’s patented Cinch Fly Technology. Visit volcom.com for a variety of boardies to keep you surfing in style. Pakaloha has new bikini styles! Check out the sporty, cute new Lanikai tops and bottoms plus Pakaloha’s new Ehukai bottoms, all of which are now available online as well as in store. Pakaloha has shops in Lahaina, Paia and Haleiwa, so be sure and stop by to browse their rainbow array of cute kinis. Welcome to summer! The perfect season for free diving and spearfishing. Be sure to check out Hammer Head Spear Guns for all the best in diving equipment, since now’s the time to get out there and explore the underwater world! If you’ve always wanted to learn more about breath hold, check out their classes in Aiea. Call or stop by to speak with an instructor! (808) 356-3860 // 991376 Koaha Place in Aiea, HI 96701. Correction: Last month, a beautiful image of the Hokule‘a was published in our John Hook portfolio, and unfortunately the spelling of the Hawaiian voyaging canoe was incorrect. Our apologies to the Polynesian Voyaging Society and to anyone else who may have taken offense. Aloha.


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LAST LOOK

Dege O'Connell closing us out in style. Photo: Dan Norkunas






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