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ZEKE LAU

Official Qualifier of The Vans Triple Crown of Sur fing Watch It Live! www.vanstriplecrownofsur fing.com & Spectrum SURF Channel 250 & 1250HD Elliot Paerata Reid, Sunset Beach. Photo: Mike Latronic.

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P A R K I N G

With winter season coming, we’re reminded of just how good it can get as Seth Moniz grabs rail and sets up for the ride of his life at Pipeline.

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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S / D E PA R T M E N T S

08 Free Parking 16 Editor’s Note 18 News & Events 52 Aperture 74 Grom Report 78 She Rips 82 Fit For Surf 86 Surf Art 90 Environment 94 Industry Notes

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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S / F E AT U R E S

QUIVERS/ BILLY KEMPER

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Sizing Up Kemper’s go-to boards at Haleiwa, Sunset, Pipeline and Jaws

THE DEFINING MOMENTS OF KAI LENNY

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Examining the pivotal experiences that have shaped the waterman’s storied career

62 WINTER BEACH AND BOARD BUYER’S GUIDE Showcasing a gallery of today’s high performance surfboards and beach accessories to get you ready for winter

CONNECTING COMMUNITY AND LIFESTYLE THROUGH NUTRITION TM

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Editorial

Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Cash Lambert Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic West Coast Ambassador Kurt Steinmetz Staff Photographers Tony Heff, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock, Keoki Saguibo Free Thinkers Kyveli Diener, Tiffany Hervey, Kahi Pacarro, Shawn Pila

Senior Contributing Photographers

Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Pete Frieden, Dane Grady, Bryce Johnson, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Laserwolf, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila, Jim Russi, Jason Shibata, Spencer Suitt, Tai Vandyke

Contributing Photographers

John Bilderback, Marc Chambers, Dayanidhi Das, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Rick Doyle, Isaac Frazer, Pete Hodgson, Joli, Kin Kimoto, Claire Murphy, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Nick Ricca, Gavin Shige, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Jimmy Wilson, Cole Yamane

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EDITOR’S LETTER

By Cash Lambert

Forward. It’s a word that has been written on my bedroom wall and placed as a screensaver on my phone at different times throughout my life, serving as a personal maxim, because it’s been my goal to grow, to advance, to push, to become more knowledgeable and more skillful in every area of my life on a consistent basis.

This way of thinking began after catching my first wave at Waikiki so many years ago, because after riding a watery wall of energy atop a longboard, I remember desperately wanting to develop the skill, and that thought process inadvertently spilled over into other areas of my life, including when I picked up a surf magazine for the first time. Flipping through the pages, I was instantly mesmerized.

To become an editor, my young mind knew that it would

require much, like learning about nouns and verbs and direct objects and gerunds and adjectives and adverbs and why this sentence is grammatically incorrect and so forth. So I studied, I read, I took chances, I prayed and today, I’m the Editor of the pages you’re reading. But achieving the title hasn’t stopped my forward thinking; it’s accelerated it. Each and every issue, my goal for the magazine and all its intricacies - headlines, themes, content and more - is to be exponentially better than the previous issue. Though it’s a maddening notion, it’s an incredible motivational tool.

Forward is also the goal of our collective staff here at Freesurf.

On top of creating monthly Board Stories television episodes, we’re also churning out heaps of social media gems daily, from the best wipeouts of the week to the tubes of the week and more.

While other publications have pulled back to only creating 4-8 print editions throughout the year, our foot is pressed

on the gas pedal: we’re continuing to print 12 issues per year, and of course, the magazine is #stillfree. We’re also placing an emphasis on lengthy in-depth editorial coverage - otherwise known as longform - in the magazine, so that you can have a behind the scenes look at our sport's most celebrated athletes while having your morning acai bowl or cruising the beach before sunset.

In this issue, geared towards what we’ve been waiting for all year: winter, we highlight athletes amongst our Hawaiian surf community that exemplify this forwardthinking mentality. Like Billy Kemper (page 36), who has “never been so focused, so determined and so confident in the ocean” heading into this winter season, and Kai Lenny, who has been pushing the boundaries of both what his body can do and what it means to be a waterman (page 42). We showcase the latest and greatest board innovations in our Winter Beach and Board Buyer’s

Guide (page 62), and we also talk story with Brodi Sale (page 74) and Brittany Penaroza (page 78) to discuss their goals in surfing and how they plan on achieving them, because after all, a goal without a plan is just a wish.

Indeed, winter is coming, and that means the HIC Pro, the Vans Triple Crown, the Pe'ahi Challenge, the crowning of a World Champion and more are just ahead, with the world's best surfers showcasing how they’ve progressed since the last winter at waves of consequences like Pipeline, Sunset and more.

Throughout the season, we’ll be in the sandy trenches with a camera, recorder and/or pen, bringing you along for the ride through our various media channels. As a staff, we plan on continuing to push the envelope in our own way, today, tomorrow, next month and on and on, with a simple, underlying motivation: forever forward.

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16TH ANNUAL DUKE'S OCEANFEST Photos Ron Johnson

Throughout August 19-27, the 2017 Duke’s OceanFest lived up to its tag line “Hawaii’s Premier Ocean Sports Festival”.

The event, which included a week of ocean activities such as paddleboard racing, swimming, volleyball, surfing and more, all taking place in the blue waters of Waikiki, saw 2,100 athletes from over 20 countries compete along with thousands of spectators.

“Duke Paoa Kahanamoku would be proud and humble that we are celebrating his life and legacy,” said Chris Colgate, co-chair of Duke’s Oceanfest.

“It was our 16th year honoring the life and legacy of Duke Kahanamoku, and we’re thrilled that 2017 shaped up to be one of our biggest events ever,” said Chris Colgate, co-chair of Duke’s

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Oceanfest.

The competitive surfing facet of the festival - the Duke’s Waikiki Longboard Classic - featured an amateur and pro division, along with a $5,000 prize purse up for grabs in the Pro division. The Matson Menehune Surf Contest on August 19-20th provided the opportunity for menehune to showcase their evolving skill in playful waves.

Along with promoting the legacy of Duke, the annual festival aims to promote the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation, which last year gave out “close to $200,000 in grants and scholarships to student athletes, and other organizations,” according to Colgate.

By the numbers, 260 Keiki competed in the Matson Menehune Surf Fest, 80 adaptive surfers with physical disabilities from 14 countries competed in the Hawaii’s Adaptive Surfing Championships presented by AccesSurf, 16 teams were represented in the ITSA Tandem World Championships and 380 swimmers competed in the Duke’s Waikiki Ocean Mile Swim.

Mahalo to sponsors Hawaii Tourism Authority, Outrigger Hotels & Resorts, Duke’s Waikiki and Kona Brewing, and for information on next year’s event, visit DukesOceanfest.com!

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19TH ANNUAL SURFERCROSS Nathan Fletcher, Sunny Garcia, Cheyne Magnusson and more trade surfboards for motorbikes

By Shawn Pila Photos Andrew Welker

The 19th Annual SurferCross, fueled by big names and pulse-pounding action, was an event that for the 19th year, combined the love and thrill of two sports: surfing and motocross in the month of August.

The idea began about 20 years ago when JGR/Suzuki team manager Jeremy Albrecht and big wave surfer Mike Parsons decided to host an event combining the two sports. Ever since, surfers, riders and some of the top in the industry rally up from around the globe to participate in a special two-day get-together known as SurferCross, which takes place after the Vans U.S. Open of Surfing at Huntington Beach.

What makes SurferCross so unique is that it’s a team event where surfers and riders are randomly paired. Each team competes in two 12-lap races and then have to surf two 15-minute heats the next day. While it’s known as a laidback and low-pressured event, there is always a solid field of competitors and everyone is going for the gold.

This year, Albrecht, in collaboration with the United States Motorcycle Coaching Association and Husqvarna Motorcycles, hosted a dirt bike clinic for all the surfers the day before the race. As for most of the surfers, who rarely get to ride, having a dirt bike clinic led by some of the top pros in the industry was helpful.

“The best part of the event was the moto clinic,” said Sunny Garcia, 6x

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Triple Crown and 4x SurferCross Champion. “Riding with and getting coached by Buddy Antunez, Nathan Ramsey and Mike Brown... it doesn’t get any better than that.”

Garcia and other surfers like Chava Greenlee, Nathan Fletcher, David Kuwada, Mark Gabriel and Cheyne Magnusson hui’d up and got in as much practice as they could, going over drills and basics that even the pro’s tend to forget.

Magnusson, who partnered with motocross legend Jeff Emig, said that it was a humbling experience being out there with the moto guys, having only been on a bike 24-hours before the race.

Locked, loaded and with no room for hesitation, the match was on and metal machines flew through the air while the riders navigated the Milestone MX track.

By the second moto, some of the competitors were fatigued, but Garcia managed to nail the hole shot with Chava holding his own closely behind. At the end of the day, it was Nathan Fletcher that came out on top with moto partner Zac Commans.

After surviving day one, the ocean and beaches of San Onofre were a welcomed sight. Day two is when all the heckling really comes through, and if you found yourself close enough to the judges tent, you were either razed by the commentators or randomly entered into an unofficial flex-off. But with all jokes aside, the glassy 2-foot beach break was perfectly contestable and finally gave the surfers their time to shine.

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“It felt so good to be back in our element,” said Magnusson, who placed last in the moto. “But the main thing that I was stoked on was seeing how psyched my partner was to be in the water.”

Killer dance moves, huge claims and over exaggerated kick-outs, it was the moto guys turn to look like rookies. But each team needed to work together, get a few decent waves and push their way to the finals.

From last to first, Magnusson and Emig earned their ticket to a stacked final and took the Pro surf win with an air reverse and a mega headstand.

Winning the overall Pro division was California’s Josh Sleigh and Justin Lee, followed by Nathan Fletcher and Zac Commons, with Sunny Garcia and Ivan Tedesco in third place.

Overall Pro Division Results (Pro Surf / Pro Moto) 1st Place – Josh Sleigh & Justin Lee 2nd Place – Nathan Fletcher & Zac Commans 3rd Place – Sunny Garcia & Ivan Tedesco 4th Place – Ryan Sakal & Hunter Hewitt 5th Place – Brandon Tipton & Sean Lipanovich 6th Place – Mark Gabriel & Jeff Matiasevich Overall Industry Results 1st Place – Ryan Corum & Dusty Marvin 2nd Place – Chad Tempo & Jon Erik Burleson 3rd Place – Ryan Federo & Evan Gambetta 4th Place – Todd Cram & Tony Martinez 5th Place – Micha Davis & Lan Young 6th Place – Patrick Lopez & Ron Burnett

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INAUGURAL WOMEN’S WAIMEA BAY CHAMPIONSHIP Winter season on the North Shore is synonymous with big waves and big names creating big storylines in multiple contests, from the homegrown HIC Pro to the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, along anticipation to see if the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau will go.

This year, a new contest has been added into the mix: The Waimea Bay Championships, the first ever women’s surf event at Waimea.

The contest is in honor of Kuhina Nui Ka’ahumanu, a Hawaiian monarch and surfer who redefined the perceived roles of Hawaiian women in the 18th century.

According to contest organizers, “Defying the Kapu system’s strict separation of men and women, Kuhina Nui Ka’ahumanu sat at the table and dined beside the king. In this spirit, we wish to sit at the table, to humbly showcase the raw beauty found in the giant surf of Waimea Bay, and to demonstrate the strength and grace of the women who ride her waves.”

The contest’s holding period is between October 1 and November 21st.

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2017 HAWAII ADAPTIVE SURFING CHAMPIONSHIPS

By Cara Short Photos Jason Rose

From August 21-24, Queens in Waikiki was the mecca for adaptive surfers from around the world during the Annual Duke’s OceanFest.

A total of 81 surfers from 14 nations competed in 10 divisions, with the winner of each division battling it out in the final Superheat to be first crowned with Nalu Award.

For those who are new to the term ‘adaptive surfing’, it represents surfers with disabilities who adapt the way in which they surf, whether it be style of surfing or modified equipment.

Eleven years ago, AccesSurf partnered with Duke’s OceanFest to host the world's first Adaptive Surfing Competition. What began as an expression session with 5 surfers with a variety of abilities all in the same heat has now become one of the most prestigious events attracting people from all over the world.

Each year has added more athletes and more divisions.

This year marked the inaugural year for the competition to become the Hawaii Adaptive Surfing Championships with an overall champion of the Nalu Award, which has become the most coveted award in the international competitive adaptive surfing community.

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The competing surfers are elite athletes and competition is fierce, but what makes this event stand out is the aloha and what it means to be part of the celebration of Duke’s creed and values as a waterman.

In the end, 15 local surfers made it the finals of the 10 divisions, taking home 4 First place, 3 Second place, 3 Third place and 5 Fourth place medals.

The competitive adaptive surfing movement is growing rapidly around the world and all eyes are on Hawaii as the first to pave the path with competitions such as Duke’s OceanFest, local surfing federation Hawaii Surfing Association - which has included adaptive divisions since 2014 - and the Hawai’i Adaptive Surf Team (HAST) that formalized in 2014 to train and compete at local, national and international events. The International Surfing Association began their World Adaptive Surfing Championships in 2015 modeled after Hawaii - and there is even the possibility of surfing in the Paralympics.

All of the competitors are inspirational athletes who are defying the odds through innovation, dedication and hard work. Keep an eye on the horizon for more from these surfers as they break barriers and pioneer a sport for generations to come, and for more information on the movement, visit Accessurf.org!

Keoki

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today as both a person and a professional athlete, from her first surf sessions atop a tandem surfboard on Oahu’s South Shore to her - at only 14-years-old - beating Layne Beachley at the Roxy Pro Gold Coast, and tales of competing in the boys divisions and more.

Chris also explains how he went the extra mile to help Carissa prepare for events, like warming up hot packs for her feet at cold water locales and coming up with the idea for her to train in waves on Oahu that mimicked World Tour breaks with guidance from coaches.

FIRST PRIORITY: A FATHER’S JOURNEY IN RAISING WORLD CHAMPION SURFER CARISSA MOORE

By Cash Lambert “We’re in the middle of a supermarket on the North Shore of Oahu. Carissa is crying. She wants to quit. It’s pretty much all my fault.”

This is how Chris Moore, father to 3-time World Champion Carissa Moore, begins his 135-page tell-all book about their journey to the pinnacle of professional surfing.

In the book, Chris explains that Carissa had just lost a surf contest, and his compassion turned into frustration as he questioned her tactics in the water. Carissa, in tears, responded that she didn’t want to surf anymore. She was done.

But this wasn’t at Snapper Rocks, Huntington Beach, Honolua Bay or any other professional surfing event. Instead, it was at the Haleiwa Menehune Surfing Championships, where little Carissa had surfed in the 7-9 age division.

“Nobody prepared me for any of this,” Chris writes. “Before we left the hospital after Carissa was born, the doctor didn’t tell me that she was going to be a freak athlete, nor did he hand me a how-to book on how to raise her. Now, years removed from

the scene at Foodland, I look back and think about what a remarkable challenge we’ve overcome together.”

Chris chronicles that “remarkable challenge” by providing a behind the scenes look at the peaks and valley’s of Carissa’s 2015 World Title campaign in First Priority: A Father’s Journey in Raising World Champion Surfer Carissa Moore. Along the way, Chris tells stories that shaped who Carissa is

We already know how the book ends: with Carissa hoisting the 2015 trophy. But it’s the details, the honesty and stories along the way that make First Priority: A Father’s Journey in Raising World Champion Surfer Carissa Moore a must read.

First Priority, written by Chris Moore and edited by Jake Howard, is now available on Amazon.

Tim Kothlow

10 QUESTIONS WITH BRISA HENNESSY

By Cash Lambert In August, Brisa Hennessy stood atop the Vans U.S. Open of Surfing podium at Huntington Beach, holding the first place trophy for the Pro Junior division, along with a Hawaiian flag. The win was a career highlight for the 18-year-old who calls Kailua home, and after the awards ceremony, although she was all smiles, her mind had already shifted to what was to come.

“I think it's is important to take in the moment, but not get caught up in it too much and have it inspire you to move on to your next goals ahead,” she said.

The “goals” Brisa referred to are her results on the World Surf League’s Qualifying Series. She’s been chasing points in contests across the globe all year, so we caught up with her to hear about her travels abroad, how she’s fine tuning her repertoire and why a seahorse became her spirit animal following a recent surf session.

How has 2017 been different for you, Brisa?

This year, I am doing the entire WSL QS Tour for the first time and trying to focus mostly on that. It’s been a very different journey for me…stressful and trying at times, yet inspiring moving from the junior events to competing against some of my heroes. It’s a whole

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10 QUESTIONS WITH BRISA HENNESSY new ball game and is very humbling. One of the biggest things I’ve learned this year is that it’s a marathon, not a sprint and in the end, the race is against yourself. I know it sounds cliche, but I’ve realized how true this is once I started competing on the QS. It’s a long road and I’ve been striving to take it heat by heat, wave by wave and just be in the moment as much as I can.

What’s the funniest thing that’s happened on the road this year?

One of the funniest moments on the road happened to me in France. I was surfing by myself and practicing for the comp when I duck dove a wave and realized I had some seaweed stuck in my hair. When I started pulling it out, I heard this soft squeaking noise in my ear. Out of curiosity, I took a better look at the seaweed, and to my surprise it was a baby seahorse!

It was as small as my pinky finger and the cutest thing I have ever seen! In the midst of this happening, I was stuck in the impact zone, just getting worked, trying to get this little guy out of my hair. I finally got him free. I hope he is okay! It was a funny and surreal moment that I won’t ever forget. I definitely think a seahorse may be my spirit animal now!

Grinding it out at surf contests has taken you around the globe, so what’s one of your favorite places to spend a lay day and why?

I haven’t competed in Fiji, but I’ve stayed on the island of Namotu several times and it’s my favorite place in the whole world! I would spend my lay day there because it is beautiful, relaxing and the possibilities are absolutely endless. You can surf, swim, snorkel and shell hunt all in beautiful crystal clear warm water. What more could you ask for?

Winning the 2017 Pro Junior at the US Open - what does that do for your confidence headed into the back half of the year?

The QS has been hard mentally, so getting that winning feeling back really brings up my confidence. The US Open is a huge event and stage of the surfing world, and it’s even more special to finally win it, given that it’s my last year as a junior.

It's crazy how much of the game is mental and how important it is to have a positive head space. Any little edge helps and confidence is key.

With winter just around the corner, what's your favorite winter season wave on the North Shore?

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My favorite winter season wave would probably be either V-Land or Sunset. I love how playful and perfect V-land is. Sunset, on the other hand reminds me of what surfing in winter should feel like: heart pumping, adrenaline rushing, but always the constant desire to catch another one.

What do you listen to before a heat? Have any go-to preheat jams?

I really like an array of music, both new and old. If I want to get amped up, I listen to AC DC, and if I want to relax and calm down, I listen to Odessa.

What are some of your surfing goals, and how do you plan on accomplishing these goals?

I have a lot of goals and I know the list will always grow. Right now, I’m focusing on getting good results on QS and just surfing my best. Staying focused, staying positive, working harder than I ever have and honestly, the biggest one is having fun. When I’m having fun, it usually comes out in my surfing and I do my best. Another important goal is to keep pushing my progressive surfing and my big wave game. I also want to keep sharing the stoke of surfing any way I can. I am so lucky to meet people who love surfing from so many cultures around the world, and if I can share a wave or a smile, that’s what it’s really all about.

Anything you’re fine tuning right now with your surfing?

I’ve been really working on small beach break surfing. Growing up in Costa Rica and Hawaii, we are so lucky to have amazing reef breaks, but the downside is the lack of beach breaks. The QS is primarily in beach breaks and it’s a very important skill and confidence to have. Getting my progressive game up is also something important to me. When I’m home, I look forward to having time to practice and practice and practice and practice airs. They say when you get to 1,000 you may have it down!

Your thoughts on the talent level of Hawaii's junior girls?

I have to say the Hawaii girls definitely rule! I think what sets them apart is they are exposed to bigger and more powerful waves growing up. It's just a great group of girls coming up that are all pushing each other. I look at the younger generation and am reminded of all the HSA and NSSA comps I did with all my friends. When I go to Kewalos now, I am blown away by how hard the young girls are ripping. I better watch out!

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Q U I V E R S /

BILLY KEMPER

Sizing Up Kemper’s go-to boards at Haleiwa, Sunset, Pipeline and Jaws

Heff

By Cash Lambert

It all started when I got my first surfboard at 3 years old.

It was basically what Catch Surfboards is now - a beater board - made by BZ back in 1992 or 1993. I think I was going tandem with my brother on his boards before that.

Let’s fast forward to present day. How have your shapes evolved working with Glenn Pang and T&C Surf in recent years?

At first glance, Billy Kemper’s North Shore backyard is full of mango, avocado and lychee trees, along with baby toys and surfboards. Because Winter season is just around the corner, we wanted to see what boards the 27-year-old Maui native would be riding while pulling into massive Pipeline barrels, carving open faces at Sunset and elevator dropping down Jaws waves the size of a 3-5 story buildings, so when asked about his quiver, Billy - a big wave champion, strike mission specialist and threat in any contest he enters - led us into his yard and started with his 10’0 Jaws gun.

“This is the board I won the last Jaws contest on,” Billy says, grabbing its rails and standing the board in the grass. “It’s the board that will get you into waves that you probably shouldn’t be riding.”

He places his Jaws gun delicately on the grass and picks up another board that likely “gets you into waves that you probably shouldn’t be riding” - a 6’10 that he plans on using for Sunset.

We talk story, and Billy tells us about board sizes (“look at the boards Pancho Sullivan, Kahea Hart and Sunny Garcia are riding out there at Sunset. They ain’t riding a 6’4s”), his contest expectations (“hopefully the results will come”), why he’s “never been so focused, so determined and so confident in the ocean” heading into the 2017/2018 winter season and more.

Come to find out, the reason for this “focus, determination and confidence” isn’t only because of his finely tuned quiver. It also has something to do with the baby toys scattered throughout the backyard.

Today, you have a wide spectrum of high performance boards in your quiver. Can you take us back to where it all started with your first surfboard? Do you remember what that board was?

A few years ago, I sat down with Glenn Pang and the boys at T&C, and they’ve been a huge part of my success.

Glenn is there from the beginning to the end, asking questions and he’s really good with my feedback. Now, there is no feedback, because every board is perfect for me. He knows what I like and I’m very confident with his boards. For example, we started working on a summer quiver a couple years ago with boards that have a lot more volume, and what came out of that were these crazy dome decks with double stringers. The boards were designed strictly for slabs and barrels in places like West Oz, Fiji and Panama, and the boards proved to work perfectly in those conditions over the summer.

Give us a breakdown on your winter quiver and how it’s organized.

Everything under 6’6 is a S4 model, and everything above that is a W4X model. As an example, one of my S4’s is a 6’2, 18 and 5/8ths, 2 and 7/16ths. It has Future fin boxes, and is my go to for Sunset Point or Haleiwa. I have this

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Q U I V E R S

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W4, which is a 6’10, 8 and 5/8ths and 2 and 7/16ths, and it's my Sunset Beach magic stick.

You perform so well at Sunset, and of course you won the HIC Pro there in 2010. What do you ride on bigger days at Sunset? Do you lean towards bigger or smaller increments?

You’ve won the Pe’ahi Challenge back to back in 2015 and 2016: talk us through your Jaws quiver. And are you changing anything about it this year?

Heff

Boards have been shrunken down a lot in the last few years. If you ask Pancho Sullivan or Kahea Hart what they would have ridden at 12-foot Sunset 15 years ago, they’d say a 7’8 or 8’0.

The biggest board I ride out there is a 6’10, and other guys are even riding 6’4s. I feel like I’m riding bigger boards than most of my competitors. Overall, I feel confident. I feel that with a little extra foam, you can push harder and throw more spray. You’re

rails are super pulled down to hold the wall of the wave, so you don’t have too much foam where you bury a rail. But at Sunset, I’m riding thinner boards. People say things like ‘why ride thinner boards, there’s way more paddling there’ but for me, putting your board on rail and doing big turns is hard when you have a big, beefy rail. That’s why I’ve thinned my rails out and my boards turn sharp and go fast at Sunset. The other difference between my Pipe and Sunset boards are size: 6’8 is the magic number at Sunset and 6’4 - 6’6 is my go to board for big Backdoor.

not cutting corners; your surfing like a man should there. Look at the boards Pancho, Kahea and Sunny Garcia are riding out there.

They ain't riding a 6’4 with big N/NW swell at Sunset, that’s for sure. So my magic numbers are 6’8 and 6’10.

Do you use same boards for Sunset and Pipe?

I ride two different boards at Pipe and Sunset. There’s a little difference in rocker, the concave should be the same but the volume and distribution of foam is completely different. My boards at Pipe have a lot of foam under my chest - close to 3 inches thick - and the boards have this crazy dome deck. The

I’m not changing anything about it, because this is the board I won the last Jaws contest on. This is a 10’0, with ranges from 9’6-10’6. We came up with these concepts of digging foam out of the deck and a crazy concave, double concave through the whole board. It has a really thin tail, and if you look at the deck and the nose, you’ll notice it has a huge beak nose. I don’t have a big board that turns on a dime like this one does, and it has a 4-fin set up, a big thick stringer, and like I said crazy amounts of concave and good foam distribution.

It’s the board that will get you into waves that you probably shouldn’t be riding.

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change what works. You come into the HIC Pro and you don’t have too much time to do testing and trial, so I stick to what works for me and Glenn knows that, he’s very confident in what he’s shaping for me. Over the summer, I’ve gained 15 pounds, so I’ve been training and preparing myself, but my boards are staying the same.

Heading into the winter season and the competitions that come with it, including the HIC Pro and Triple Crown, what’s your focus? Anything you’ve fine tuned in your repertoire, or maybe you’ve been training differently?

Blue, orange, green, red: why did you choose a bright color scheme for your boards?

Johnny Boy [Gomes], Pottz (Martin Potter) and those guys had the craziest airbrushes back in the 80s. It all goes back to an image pictured in your head as a kid, and today, when I see good Backdoor, I still picture Johnny Boy dropping in and coming out and doing a huge turn on a bright green and red board. I like bright colors because they stand out. And surfing a wave like Sunset, it's really far out, so when you see a bright color going across the face it’s like painting a picture. That’s cool to me.

It doesn’t seem like there’s any specific differences in your winter quiver heading into this winter season.

Nothing’s really changed. My boards last year felt 100 percent, and I’m not going to

Your confidence comes from being physically ready and mentally ready.

I’ve been training 5 days a week with Kahea Hart and working with my nutritionist. This is the earliest I’ve started my training camps, and the best I’ve felt at this point leading up to winter. I just had my second son, and Dad has to bring home the money and pay for diapers and food.

For me, it’s all about no slouching and no half assing. It’s full throttle all the way.

Congratulations on that! What has fatherhood been like for you?

I always thought being a dad would be the scariest thing ever and I wouldn’t ever be able to surf, because all my time to myself would be gone. But it's taught me that the hardest thing in life to learn and accept is patience. Now, I’ve accepted and learned it, so it’s probably been the best thing to ever happen to me. I’ve never been so focused, so determined and so confident in the ocean as I am now as a father.

Why do you say that you’ve never been so focused and determined as you are now?

I think it's because when I get that time away to myself, I go to the gym and make sure that hour and a half is 150 percent.

I’m not there just to have a good sweat and make sure I’m getting a good workout in; I’m there to work and I’m there for the right reasons.

The same goes for traveling throughout the summer. I’m not going to roll the dice on Tahiti for an average Chopes swell; I’m going to make sure it’s going to be as good as it gets, and I think that all paid off this summer. I made a handful of great decisions, and I got some of the best waves I’ve ever surfed. As a father, you mature really fast and you get yourself together really fast as well. If you don’t have it together, I’ll tell you one thing: the day you have a kid, you will pull it together. And if you don't, then you shouldn’t be a dad.

Any last words before we see you in a contest jersey carving walls at Sunset and pulling into deep Pipeline barrels?

I’m thankful and stoked with my family and where we’re at right now. It’s helped drive me and helped me achieve the success I’ve had in the last couple years. It's crazy because I feel like the kids came with the success, and I’m grateful for what I have.

T&C makes better boards than I could ever dream of riding.

It's changed my surfing for the better, and I’m excited for this winter and hopefully the results will come.

The Defining Moments of

Kai Lenny

By Cash Lambert

Step into Kai Lenny’s home on Maui and one of the first things you’ll notice are the trophies. Ah, there’s so many!

For example, there’s the iconic wood paddle for being named the 2013 SUP Race World Champion. Then there is the glistening, silver-colored trophy for earning the #1 overall Male Award at the 2013 SUP Awards. And of course, the 2017 Puerto Escondido Challenge Champion trophy, beautiful wood with a multicolored Spanish skull, and so many more.

While staring at glistening proof of his accolades, it’s clear that Kai has one of the most diverse resumes in action sports.

He’s not only a surfer who charges proper Jaws and he’s not only a kiteboarder and he’s not just a windsurfer, a SUP racer or prone paddler. While most 25-year-olds are getting comfortable in their first job, Kai is already a Champion in most of these disciplines.

Is there anything that could be more impressive? Well, as I found out, his attitude is equally - if not more impressive. Though he has every reason not to be, Kai is one of the most humble and down to earth professional athletes you’ll talk story with. The 25-year-old Maui native, who has a strong build, an inviting white smile and brown eyes, does not let the trophies inflate his ego.

“Every morning I wake up, I look at my trophies and they inspire me to get in the gym and do the things that are difficult,” Kai told me. “The best things in life take a long time to get, and everything I’m going to do for the rest of the year and next year will be inspired by what I’ve done.”

These well deserved trophies aren’t only tools for motivation; they’re also pieces of metal and wood that encase memories of defining moments.

We’ve all, in some way, shape or form had one: that moment where you choose one path over another, or put your time and energy into one goal, and because of that, your trajectory years later in a career, in a relationship or geographically, is dramatically different. For Kai, a defining moment is “when my perspective shifts and I gain a confidence from it. How did my life change after those moments?

Maybe it didn’t, but in between my two ears it did.”

After he completed an unprecedented mission this year - hydrofoiling interisland to attend multiple beach cleanups - I caught up with Kai to talk story about a few of his defining moments. He told a collection of defining stories dripping with saltwater and adrenaline, like being towed into waves at Jaws at 16 with Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama and what it was like to be cheered “by your heroes” after winning the 2017 Puerto Escondido Challenge, all the while offering an honest and unfiltered look into the mind of today’s most celebrated waterman.

Age 4: Kai’s First Adrenaline-Fueled Wave Drop “When I was 4, I had already started surfing on my very own,” Kai said. “So this defining moment happened at that age on the South Shore of Maui. My parents went out to surf and some friends were watching me on the beach. I snuck about 100 yards down the beach and took an

8-foot board with me. And by today’s standards, I was looking at a wave that was maybe waist high. I paddled out, paddled for a wave and I could feel the wave sucking up, and then I dropped down to the bottom of the wave. I could feel the transition, and then I remember riding whitewater. It was the equivalent of surfing a giant paddle wave now at Mavericks or Jaws, and it was the start of my love for riding waves and riding big waves by myself.”

Age 6: An Introduction to Outer Reefs Growing up on Maui, Kai was surrounded by watermen legends, like Robbie Naish, a World Champion in both kite and windsurfing. “I was surrounded by the best windsurfers on the planet, and at age 6, I was big enough and strong enough to hold up in a windsurf swell,” Kai said. “All of a sudden I had the power to sail half a mile out and dabble in waves that were out of my grasp before.”

Age 16: Equipment Troubleshooting with Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama When Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama invite you to surf Jaws, no matter how scared you may be, you have to go. Or so says Kai, who got the call at age 16.

During the session, which was Kai’s introduction to Jaws, the waves were 12-15 foot Hawaiian. He was riding a hydrofoil in snowboard boots. “I recall being so terrified,” he said. “I hadn’t used snowboard boots all winter, and the saltwater had eaten the insoles.

Dave threw me the rope, and I stood up and the soles fell off. I lifted the boot

Heff

Age 17: Proving Himself in the “Big Leagues” Kai admits that the transition from a child star to a professional athlete can produce anxiety. “I was so nervous since I had already been getting attention for windsurfing, kitesurfing and standup paddleboarding,” he said. “I hadn’t proved myself in the big leagues yet.” So Kai entered the 2010 Sunset Beach SUP Pro feeling butterflies: “I was intimidated by all these Hawaiian professional surfers,” he said.

The time he had spent around legends of the sport, like Naish, Hamilton and Kalama then began to pay dividends.

He advanced heat after heat, eventually winning the contest.

“That was a huge deal,” he said. “I somehow pulled it off and won, and it gave me the confidence to compete on a Pro level not only in stand up, but also in other sports.”

His confidence, combined with his skill, resulted in more hardware: Kai would win 7 World Titles between SUP racing and SUP wave riding in the years to come. “I had goals of being a World Champion athlete, goals that I had dreamed of achieving because the people I was surrounded by on Maui were World Champions in one sport 44

or the other,” Kai said. “Those were some defining times.”

Ages 17-19: Entering the Big Wave Arena Kai’s first paddle session at Jaws took place in 2010. But he didn’t have a normal gun, so he entered the lineup on a stand up paddleboard gun.

“The wave was so steep and terrifying I made it by the skin of my teeth,” Kai said.

Two years later, he started paddling for waves the sizes of 3-5 story buildings with appropriate equipment: a traditional gun. “I remember catching a couple waves and it was something I had never done before,” he said.

The following year, he was awarded an alternate spot for the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau. “I think I was second to last,” he said. “I had to start somewhere right?” For Kai, being mentioned among the world’s elite big wave surfers in a contest that was named after his hero was a defining moment.

“Eddie was my hero growing up, even though he died well before I was born,” Kai said.

“At my elementary school, we had ‘famous people day’ and I dressed up like Eddie two years in a row. I would bring my surfboard to class and wear a wetsuit as part of the act. Back then, kid’s surfboards were just really small shortboards, and the board I brought to school had red rails and a couple stickers on it of the companies I liked.

I conducted a detailed report on Eddie, where I pulled information from research online, and talked to some of the Maui locals who knew him.

So being named an alternate in 2013 and attending the opening ceremony was special because I was that much closer to his legend.”

Heff

and you could see my foot!

Dave had that look of ‘we made a mistake’, a sort of disappointment. But it was the equipment, not me. Dave saw that, cracked up and gave me his boots - they were huge, like size 11 - and my feet were only size 8 at the time. I was basically swimming in them.

I remember catching a wave, and I was so deep and the wave closed out on me... I was hanging on for dear life and made it to the outside.“

Heff

The following year, Kai was one alternate slot higher, and his goal is to continue a methodical climb up the list.

“Up until now, I’ve gone up 3 or 4 spots,” he said. “That’s pretty special.”

Age 22: Reintroducing Hydrofoil surfing Kai’s previous memories with hydrofoil surfing included a jet ski, snowboard boots, and having the sole fall out while Jaws was exploding into mountains of whitewater nearby. But one day, he had an idea that developed into a mission: why can’t anyone ride the hydrofoil on small waves instead of just big waves?

“When I had the idea, I was doing a ton of paddling both downwind canoes and stand up paddleboards, and I

wanted to harness those open ocean swells,” he said. Kai helped design a special foil for a SUP, and then translated that foil to a much smaller board.

Ask him what it feels like, and he’ll say “flying” and “snowboarding powder”. Kai noted that most of the world doesn't have premier waves, and that the foil was “the great equalizer. The worse the waves, the better it felt. My only regret is that I didn't do it sooner, because it’s opened up surf spots that are uncrowded.

There’s epic waves everywhere now.”

This instilled even more confidence in Kai. “It was groundbreaking for me because it gave me confidence to believe in my ideas and approaches and not second guess myself,” he said.

Age 23: An Undisputed Win at the “Channel of Bones” Known as the Channel of Bones, the Ka'iwi Channel is a treacherous 26-mile expanse of ocean that separates the islands of Molokai and Oahu.

This is the setting for the Molokai 2 Oahu Paddleboard World Championships, an annual 32-mile grueling race that first began in the mid 1990s.

“I had been paddling the Molokai 2 Oahu Paddleboard World Championships on a prone paddleboard and an SUP since I was 12-yearsold,” Kai said with a casual tone. “In 2015, I had won the Stock division and broke the record, but I had never won the Unlimited division, and that was a goal a long time coming. Amongst peers and legends, it was a really big

deal to win that event and that it felt like something I had to do to be on the level of the greats before me.”

In 2016, Kai stepped onto that level, breaking a new record along with being the first across the finish line. He did it in 4 hours, 7 minutes and 41 seconds.

Age 24: An Interisland Cleanup Campaign via Hydrofoiling His next defining moment was a product of his familiarity with the Ka'iwi Channel and his desire to give back to the Hawaiian community.

“I wanted to give back to the islands, because it's these islands that have made me who I am,” he said. “I was also wondering how could I bring awareness to such a problem

Keoki

Erik Aeder

Partnering with Sustainable Coastlines and Redbull, Kai embarked on a statewide beach cleanup, and instead of venturing to each island via air, he decided to travel by hydrofoil. “The whole idea was to use hydrofoil as vehicle for awareness for beach cleanups on each island,” he said.

Surfing alongside escort boats, he hydrofoiled from the Big Island to Maui in just over 4 hours, and broke his own record - set at the Molokai 2 Oahu Paddleboard World Championships - by 45 minutes from Molokai to Oahu. “That was a cool accomplishment,” he said. “I was just in boardshorts from the Big Island to Maui, feeling so free, a freedom I had never tasted. Here I was - surfing going up to 20 mph across the ocean and it felt like I was on a perfect wave but I was in the middle of nowhere,” he said.

“The distance was intimidating, but at the same time, I was having so much fun,” he continued. “Along the way, I was inspired and humbled by what I was learning from Sustainable Coastlines and Five Gyres.

As a professional athlete, you have to make it about yourself to be the best there is, and you have to be a little selfish. That goes against my upbringing. I was always taught to give back as much as I can, and this felt like I was giving back to the people and the islands.”

Age 24: Dethroning his Heroes in Dramatic Fashion at the Puerto Escondido Challenge

48

Kai was “disappointed” after his rookie year on the Big Wave World Tour in 2016: “Competing in big waves is another ball of wax. The first time I surfed places like Nazare and Puerto Escondido were on the Tour. And there’s so many good big wave riders, so I was wondering to myself if I was capable of holding my own,” Kai said.

Before the 2017 Puerto Escondido Challenge was set to run in his second year on Tour, Kai had a choice to make. He had been training all summer for the Molokai 2 Oahu Paddleboard World Championships, and the two events fell within the same window. On one hand, Kai was the defending champion in Hawaii, but on the other, Puerto was expected to be pumping and he had committed himself entirely to the Tour.

“Choosing Puerto was the best decision I could have made,” Kai said. “I didn’t think I was going to go down there and win. There was actually more of a chance of me winning the race.”

After touching down in Mexico in late July of this year, Kai decided to take a different approach mentally. “I let go and wasn’t afraid to go after it,” he said. “I wasn’t trying to say I have to win this or I have to do really good in this. Heat by heat and wave by wave, if I did well, I was stoked. Because I was having so much fun and enjoying those waves, by the time the Final came, I realized hey I can win this thing.”

With three and a half minutes left in the Final, Kai paddled

“I had goals of being a World Champion athlete, goals that I had dreamed of achieving because the people I was surrounded by on Maui were World Champions in one sport or the other,” Kai said. “Those were some defining times.”

Marcus Rodriguez

like ocean plastics, and there’s no better way than doing a cleanup on all the islands.”

“I didn't know I won the event,” Kai said. “I was claiming that wave because up to that point, I was getting so pounded I claimed because I finally made a wave!”

After paddling in, Hawaiian cohorts Makua Rothman and Nathan Florence carried him up the beach into the competitors area. “All these legends and my heroes were there clapping for me and I remember thinking ‘is this really happening right now?

Wow’! On a personal level, it solidified that feeling that I was meant to be there. And that I earned it,” Kai said.

“Even if you surf big waves, it takes a special level to be near guys like Shane Dorian and other legends. You grow up watching these guys, and then you wonder if you can hang with them in the same arena. It was fulfilling to be on that stage, having earned it the hard way. It gave me a lot of excitement and inspiration for the events to follow - I have nothing to lose and everything to gain.” pau

Lucano Honkle

into a bomb and stood tall in a massive barrel, earning a 8.60 from the judges. Three minutes later, he was the Champion.

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Photo: Tony Heff

John John Florence Photo: Chris Latronic

Kelly Slater Photo: Keoki

Ezra Sitt Photo: Jake Marote

Arjuna Morgan Photo: Brent Bielmann

Heff

2017 WINTER BEACH & BOARD BUYER’S GUIDE

By Chris Latronic What is it that makes getting a new surfboard so wonderful?

It’s such a whirlwind of emotion that is unlike anything else.

The earliest surfboard creators knew this, and we know it today. It’s that special feeling of receiving an object that allows us the ability to ride energy in harmony with the ocean. Every surfboard is like a new instrument that plays a different song each time you ride: the contour and concave produce a unique tone as it vibrates across each new wave, creating tunes of finesse and satisfaction, breaking barriers and smashing sections, translating your wildest nightmares into lucid dreams. We obsess over these rides, trying to perfect that harmony. Enter our Board Buyers Guide, which is fueled to feed this obsession for the greater good of better surfing on the North Shore and the world. In the following pages, we highlight the modern innovations of our beloved surf crafts and, along with insight from Hawaii’s premier shapers, present you with board options for the future. Aloha!

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What are the best selling shapes/ models right now?

Eric Arakawa: As winter approaches, our best selling boards are the rounded pin North Shore step up boards. They are very fast and responsive, and are very dependable in all conditions.

Steve Morgan: For me, the answer is complex because I shape both short and longboards for two distinct lines.

In regard to HIC Surfboards, the Olo longboard continues to be a bestseller year after year because it is a great all around longboard. Hybrid models like the Z-Glide and now the Tracker come in at a close second. With the Brewer/ Morgan line, we are continuing to develop the line and the response has really been awesome. In fact, the V-5 Bonzer immediately sold out on our first run.

Eric Arakawa Designs // Benji Brand // Photo: Heff

Robin Johnston: For shortboards, my Claimer, Vagabond, Winged Manta and Stonehenge have been popular lately. Fun boards and performance longboards have been ordered frequently throughout this past summer season.

What's your advice to the average surfer who wants a solid, durable winter board?

Glenn Pang: Coming into winter, probably for the average surfer, I would say the most important thing would be making sure you have enough volume. Bumping up the thickness on your board is not a bad idea and with the waves having more push, you can use more length as well.

Winter waves are so different from the waves in summer; the waves have so much more power and you need the volume to help you get into the waves a little earlier. Of course, if you want durability, you need to sacrifice a little on the weight. Our regular stock glassing, which is four ounce bottom, four ounce and six ounce on the top is pretty light and has some durability as well. For the high performance guys who want the boards on the lighter side, we do four ounce bottom and

Hi-Tech // Ola Eleogram // Photo: Heff

Hawaiian Island Creations // Joel Centeio // Photo: Heff

Eric Arakawa Designs XO Series Amplifire

Hawaiian Island Creations Mojo Shaper: Kerry Tokoro

This will be difficult to compare to your last

Dimensions: 5’8” X 19.25” X 2.31” Volume:

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response The “Mojo” is a high-performance hybrid and speed are brought to a whole new

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amount of energy for bigger turns, loftier

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airs, and deeper barrels —whether it’s

noticeably deep. The wide point is pushed

firing or just that little windswell slop. Not

back a bit, creating a narrower nose and a

another EPS and not dual density, the XO

smooth tail curve. This board gets in and

Series is the beginnings of what we hope

moving quickly, generating speed with

will replace standard PU shortboards.

every turn. Available in squash, round and

Custom Orders Only

swallow tail designs.

Starting at $875 www.ericarakawasurfboards.com/the-xo-

Find it at HIC’s Ala Moana, Kailua, Haleiwa,

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Maui Mall, Lahaina & Hilo stores.

Instagram: @ericarakawadesigns

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(808) 637-0068

Hi-Tech Classic Ole Longboard

RJ Surfboards The Claimer

Hand-shaped by 87-year-old Bob "Ole"

“The Claimer” was Born in celebration of

Olson, of Lahaina. "Ole" has been fine

today’s compact performance shortboard.

tuning his shaping craft for over 60 years.

With single to double-concave, mediumfull rails, medium rocker and a slightly

9'6" Noserider

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turning in the pocket or above the lip this

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model provides remarkable performance for small to medium size surf and shines

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when pushed past critical. Ride quad or thruster. Dimensions and tail design can be customized. $420 for Poly $505 for Epoxy www.rjsurf.com rjsurfboards@gmail.com 1-808-738-7873 Facebook: RJ Surfboards Instagram: RJSURFBOARDS

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two four ounce on the deck with a toe patch.

Eric Arakawa: It depends on the budget. If it allows for only one board, I recommend going with a basic step up utility board that is around 3-4 inches longer than their everyday shortboard.

So, if that shortboard is 5'11, then going up to a 6'2 or 6'3 would be a good start to cover the first increment in wave size.

It’s also important to avoid trying to cover too much wave size range with one board by adding extra length. You can target the type of waves you want to surf most and choose the appropriate board for that. You don't want to be riding a board designed for 6-8 foot waves if you are surfing 3-4 foot waves 80% of the time. If the budget can afford a winter quiver, order up!

RJ Surfboards // Ian Montgomery // Photo: Jeff Bautista

How are boards going to continue to evolve to further increase high performance surfing?

Eric Arakawa: I think to get to that next level, we have to be willing to invest the time and money to develop better ways to build surfboards to achieve the desired performance characteristics.

We need to move beyond tweaking the recipe of shape design while holding onto the traditional ingredients. At the risk of looking crazy, we need to think out of the box. Imagination and perseverance - with integrity - go a long way.

Surfboard Factory Outlet // Ezekiel Lau // Photo: Keoki

Robin Johnston: People seem to be less afraid of volume and fuller outlines.

When the rocker, rails and everything are done right, some of these fuller, flatter models can be really user friendly, making it easy to create speed.

What is the middle point between performance and durability?

Wade Tokoro: I would say a good balance of strength and performance depends on the type of materials and products. We use PU blanks and PU resin, and the glassing schedule is two layers of four ounce on the deck and one layer of four ounce on the bottom.

Steve Morgan: In regard to polyester Town & Country Surf Designs // Billy Kemper // Photo: Heff

Storm Blade 7ft Surfboard

Town & Country Surf Sidewinder

Dims: 7’ x 22” x 3.25” x vol @ 70 ptrs

Shaper/artist: Glenn Pang 6'3" x 18 5/8 x 2 3/8 Vol. 28.00

The Storm Blade 7ft Surfboard has a classic rounded nose shape with ample width

Looking for a step or better wave board

making it a great introductory board or a

for this winter? Here it is the sidewinder

perfect supplement leisure board for any

model tested by some of the best surfer in

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Surfboard Factory Outlet X-celerator

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Varial Surfboards // Barron Mamiya // Photo: Tai Van Dyke

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construction of shortboards, most surfers are riding boards glassed with four ounce cloth, which typically consist of two layers of four ounce on the deck (with a four ounce deck patch) and one four ounce layer on the bottom. A cheap and easy way to radically improve the life of a board and still keep the performance intact is to custom order your board and replace one of the layers of four ounce on the deck with six ounce cloth.

With a good glasser, only a little bit of weight is added. This is a great compromise for those without expendable income. If going all four ounce is an absolute and you can spend a little more, then a little strategic investment in carbon is the way to go. These ideas are not high tech, but they are certainly effective.

All of the new technology comes at at cost. Material cost and time involved to make the board will always vary and play a factor in the final cost of the finished product.

Is the future of shaping going to be design improvements or changes in materials, or both?

Glenn Pang: Feedback all depends on the customer. If they know a little about boards and know and can tell you what they want, it can make all the difference between getting a good or a bad board. If they are not as knowledgeable, sometimes you can get a little sidetracked and it might take a little longer to dial in a board.

Wade Tokoro: The future will be design improvements and evolution combined with new materials.

What price range can customers expect for a new board?

Glenn Pang: Depending on what type of construction the customer is looking for, prices can vary by a few hundred dollars.

Robin Johnston: My short boards start at $420 and my 9 foot longboards start at $630.

How important is feedback from surfers/customers, good or bad? Is one more valuable than the other?

Wade Tokoro: Feedback is really crucial in board building. We take every surfer’s feedback seriously, whether it’s from the professional to the weekend warrior. Everyone is important.

Varial Surfboards JC Hawaii SD-3

Varial Surfboards Meeks Surfboards Shocker

featuring Varial Foam

featuring Varial Foam

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Varial Surfboards Timmy Patterson IT-15

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Kala Brand Music Co. Pacific Walnut Ukulele

Aluminati Skateboards The Exotic Hypnotic by Patrick Parker is featured on Aluminati’s new Bullnose deck. The Bullnose draws inspiration from vintage cruisers but adds modern

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Hawaii Medicinal Sport Stick SPF 40 2.5oz - $24 Cacao Face Stick SPF 40 .5oz -$14 Organic Reef Safe Sunblock.

Made with Hawaiian Naupaka and Non Nano Zinc.

Love the ocean, love your skin, respect the reef! Use chemical free, locally made Hawaii Medicinal sunblock sticks for every surf session. www.hawaiimedicinal.com, hawaiimedicinal@gmail. com Insta: @hawaiimedicinal FB: hawaiimedicinal

Victory Koredry Long Sleeve Rashguard $49

Honolua ONE & ONLY BOARDSHORTS Description: These camo peached microfiber, satin back boardshorts are a staple for any waterman's arsenal. The solid body features island chain embroidery and logo screen at side seam and pocket.

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A compression-fit rashguard made from water-resistant KoreDry lycra that are insulating and longer lasting. The water-resistant treatment not only makes it fast drying while still being breathable, but also reduces wind chill so you're not freezing once out of the water .Long sleeves and UPF 50+ rating give optimal sun protection and also helps protect against stinging sea lice.

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Kicker Bullfrog速 Outdoor Bluetooth速 Speaker

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Kona Brewing Co. Growler This is sure to be your favorite new Growler, and the

Little Hands Hawai'i Reef Safe Mineral Sunscreen

Ocean Current Corrina Four way stretch, rubberized grommets, quick dry,

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Old Bull Lee Product Name: Montauk Boardshort Description: Twill weave poly with radically classic half speed printed floral graphic, high performance seams for durability and interior cover stitch for comfort,

On The Wall Racks Horizontal & Vertical Surfboard Wall Racks The world’s best clear acrylic board racks. Horizontal and vertical wall mounts for any surfboard, SUP, skateboard, skimboard and more. Order direct for free shipping.

lycra wing gusset fly, self-draining pockets with zipper guards. Get them wet Price: $67 www.oldbullshorts.com

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Oneill Hyperfreak

O.penVAPE Craft Reserve & O.penVAPE 2.0 variable voltage battery Craft RESERVE is the most potent and flavorful

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Quiksilver Ala Moana Boardshorts

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Scarfini Air Fin Introducing the new AIR FIN thruster range (small in green , medium in orange, large in blue ) Featuring a new core material made of 92% AIR + an engineered carbon and coloured polytech pattern design ... We

Surf N Sea Hurley Collaboration Hats - Exclusive Hurley x Surf N Sea Collaboration Hats - Haleiwa and North Shore (Snapback) and AloHaleiwa (Flexfit) embroidered with Hawaiian Island chain on the back. $28-$30

are proud of leading the way forward with the lightest and most efficient fins available for your “everyday”

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performance shortboard.

Vans UltraRange The UltraRange leads the path forward for innovation, emphasizing the brand’s expanded vision to create a versatile footwear model that provides advanced comfort, lightweight traction, and superior mobility combined with Vans’ timeless style.

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Volcom Neo Revo Jacket 1.5 neoprene reversible jacket stretch power stitch seams 50+ UV Protection www.volcom.com

Volcom Macaw Mod Boardshort

Waimea Valley Handmade Seashell Lamps These hand-made, low-watt lamps make the perfect home beach décor. Egg (shown), nautilus, circle, and

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G R O M

R E P O R T

BRODI SALE

By Kyveli Diener Photos Tony Heff

DOB: 2/6/03 Hometown: Kailua-Kona Sponsors: Billaboang, Slater Designs, Dragon, Vertra, Dakine, SexWax, Futures, Mokulele Airlines

Brodi Sale redefines the term “old soul.” Count on a kid raised on Big Island to value family time above all else, to be able to make important career decisions and travel the world alone before the age of 10 and to make you do a double take when he rides deep in the barrel or fluidly works his rails on his Slater Designs stick.

Under the tutelage of the prolific Shane Dorian, the 14-year-old is continuing his astronomic rise in surfing prowess. From being a sixyear-old scared to surf Banyans 74

at his first Keiki Classic to charging Jaws for the first time last winter at just 13, Brodi is checking all the boxes to being a future CT competitor.

Next on the list: improving his backside airs, sticking to his rigorous training, and getting better at eating with chopsticks, because when we caught up with Sale, he was preparing to go to Japan to represent Team Hawaii at the 2017 ISA World Junior Championships.

How did you get sponsored

by Billabong, Brodi?

I remember when I went to Nationals for the first time at 7-years-old…I’m pretty sure I lost every heat that I surfed in that event. After the event was over, I was hanging out with Loa Ng who was the only person I knew because he was from Kona. He was staying

with Seth and Josh Moniz and Rainos Hayes because he was part of the Billabong team already. That afternoon, Rainos asked me if I wanted to be apart of the Billabong family.

I came home feeling like the luckiest kid.

How old were you when you first met Shane Dorian?

My earliest memory of meeting Shane was at my first Shane Dorian Keiki Classic when I was 6-years-old. I remember showing up to the beach that morning and being so scared, because I had never surfed Banyans before. My dad was trying to convince me to ask Shane if I could get a late entry into his comp, and I kept telling him no. Shortly after, Shane came up and asked if I wanted to surf in the contest, and of course I couldn't say no.

How does it feel having the support and guidance of one of your heroes?

Shane has helped me a lot. He inspires me every day whether it's his surfing, helping me out, filming, watching him help others, even just sharing experiences of past surf trips and childhood memories of when he was a grom. He is an amazing dad, family man and community member, a role model for many people here in Kona.

Do you have any interest in big wave surfing?

I definitely have interest in surfing big waves. I surfed Jaws for the first time last winter with Shane. I'm going to make an effort to keep pushing myself to keep going while I have the opportunity for Shane to mentor me.

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G R O M

R E P O R T

for me as a surfer, such as traveling, training, surfing more at home and recovery time.

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B R O D I S A L E

What are your goals in surfing, and how do you plan on achieving them?

My main goal in surfing is to make the WSL World Tour. My plan to get there is to train

How do you balance the adult responsibilities of world travel, competitive pressure and getting your education?

At the age of 9, I started

What non-surfing activity to you most enjoy?

I play a little bit of golf, but I like to spend time with my family whenever I am home from a trip. When I’m gone, I miss them a lot, so when I'm home I try to make the most of

in free surfing, in contests or even in eating lasagna! One kid that I am super stoked on that's coming up on the rankings is Luke Swanson. He has an incredible air game!

It's amazing how inverted and high he can get.

Do you have a favorite surfer?

I don't really have a favorite surfer because there are so many guys that are super good in their own ways. If I were to pick one surfer to be my favorite it would have to be John John Florence because he is so well-rounded, while most guys are only good at airs or carves.

He's got it all!

What's the best part about being a grom?

Being able to surf all day everyday and being able to get barreled even when it is 3 feet!

hard, stay healthy, stay injury free and continue to compete at the highest level I possibly can.

What advice guides you the most?

My mom has always told me to listen, be humble and always be true to myself.

traveling on my own. Through traveling alone, I have had the opportunity to form relationships around the world. Everywhere I go, I have families that have made me feel at home, which has made it possible for me to travel alone, and I am so thankful.

Ever since 2nd grade, I wanted to homeschool, but it wasn't until about 18 months ago I began homeschooling. It has opened up so many windows

that time, whether it is playing board or card games, catching up on everyone else's activities or going to the beach and surfing as a family.

Who are the fellow groms that inspire you the most?

One of my peers who drives me the most is Ocean Macedo, because we often stay together when we are on trips. We push each other

Last words for the Freesurf audience?

Stay focused on your goals and never give up. Keeping picking up Freesurf Mags from local surf shops and support local businesses here in Hawaii. Check out my Instagram, too - @brodi_sale!

R I P S

BRITTANY PENAROZA

By Kyveli Diener

DOB: 12/16/99 Hometown: Kailua and Ewa Beach, Oahu Sponsors: O'Neill, Cobian Footwear, T&C Surf Designs, Charming Shark, Makani McDonald Whether 17-year-old Brittany Penaroza is bashing the lip, threading a doubleoverhead barrel, or posing for a photoshoot showing off O’Neill’s latest surf wear, her laid-back and confident manner embody one word: effortless. Surely that’s how Penaroza will look on her upcoming 18th birthday when she fulfills an early life goal of

skydiving, but until then she’s looking just as badass ripping up walls of water as she will ripping through clouds.

Currently ranked 11th regionally, she kicked off 2017 with a quarterfinal appearance at the Pipe Junior Pro and defended her top spot as the reigning state Junior Champion this summer with another meaningful victory at her home break of Ala Moana Bowls.

Rounding out this fun-loving, rank-rising wahine is her commitment to giving back to others. She has been routinely volunteering with local nonprofits AccesSurf and River of Life Mission for years, and can also be found helping tourists learn how to surf on Oahu’s east side. But wherever you find Brittany, be it on land, air, or sea, you can be sure that her every move is motivated by pure stoke and gratitude.

How did you start surfing, Brittany?

I remember my first session at Baby Queens in Waikiki on Father's Day when I was about 10. My dad took me to a surf shop to get a boogie board, but there were surfboards going around a conveyor belt up in the air, so I asked for “one of those”. We started with longboards in Waikiki and that's where my love of it all began.

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S H E

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B R I T T A N Y P E N A R O Z A

Who do you look up to in surfing?

I really look up to Bethany Hamilton, because she's an incredible human and surfer.

I really admire anyone who breaks barriers and changes what was originally thought

about two years ago and for a long time, I just really wanted to be a part of something bigger than myself. All the volunteers and participants are so cool, nothing but good vibes when you're at the beach. Some participants had been surfers before they were injured, and I would be so hurt if I couldn't surf anymore, so helping someone get into the water again or even for

and feel really comfortable out there. I wish there were more events at that wave!

Which shaper do you work with and what’s in your quiver right now?

I've been working with Makani McDonald for 4 years now.

Right now I have different variations of the H-mod and my favorite - the B1 model -

I have hundreds of reasons to smile everyday, the only time I'm probably not smiling is when I'm really hungry.

Where are your favorite places that you've traveled to, and where is somewhere you're dying to visit someday?

Namotu Island in Fiji by far, such a magical place. I also just recently went to Sayulita, Mexico. It’s such a unique little town and all the beaches around it are beautiful and empty. I want to travel all over the world, but the top of the list would be the Philippines and a boat trip in the Mentawais, that would be a total dream. I'm really grateful for all the opportunities to travel and for the people that I meet. It’s helped me grow and learn so much faster. I've been traveling alone for a couple years now and it's made me much more assertive and responsible.

Any big plans for your 18th birthday?

impossible. Carissa Moore is also my favorite surfer. She has so much power and has pushed women's surfing so much. Even with all her fame and accomplishments, she's still really down to earth to everyone.

What does being a wahine mean to you?

I think women's surfing is so beautiful and being a wahine to me means combining that beauty and femininity with the aloha spirit, spreading love wherever you go.

Talk to us about your volunteer work.

I volunteer with AccesSurf as often as I can. I started going 80

the first time is so rewarding.

I also volunteer when I can with the River of Life Mission in Chinatown to feed the homeless and I've recently decided to start volunteering with Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii. The oceans and our lives are interdependent and conservation is so important.

What recent achievements have been most meaningful to you and why?

Winning the State Championships for the second year in a row was really meaningful to me since it's at my home break Bowls. When I surf contests there, I'm always super excited because I've put in a lot of time in at that lineup

that we created together.

Where do you go to school and what are your favorite subjects?

I'm a senior at an online school called Alpha Omega Academy. History for one, and my brother is a history buff. We spend countless hours delving into facts from the past, and debating.

Psychology and philosophy are really interesting too, but I think I see myself doing something with the biological sciences. Almost every project or research paper I've had in school has revolved around the subject of sharks.

What always makes you smile?

I've been waiting since I was a little kid to be 18 just so I could go sky diving.

What are your goals in surfing?

The ultimate goal is to make the CT, but first I want to keep progressing, and to win QS events along the way.

What do you personally think is the most important message to share with others and spread around the world?

I think having a positive perspective is so important.

It's not always easy but there's so much good and opportunities in life, if you know where to look.

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F I T

F O R

S U R F

DESTROYING LIMITATIONS HOW SENSORY DEPRIVATION TANKS ARE REIMAGINING WHAT’S POSSIBLE

By Blake Lefkoe Photos Keoki

As surfers, we are always trying to step up our game: bigger waves, steeper drops, more powerful turns, deeper barrels and higher airs. We strive to find the perfect balance between style and strength. We go home at night and watch surf movies or the latest comps. We flip through glossy surf mags, reading articles and interviews and drooling over picture perfect waves. We check the buoys. Check the forecast. Check the winds and tides.

We drive our shapers nuts and spend so much money on the latest and greatest fins. We train hard and push our bodies to the very brink of utter exhaustion.

There’s something that has become serious game changer as of recent, and professional athletes across the board are achieving unbelievable results from it. It’s referred to as “floating” and takes place in a Sensory Deprivation Tank. For anywhere from 60 to 90 minutes, you are immersed in a vessel with no light or sound. You float on ten inches of 93.5 degree water (our external temperature) that has absorbed one thousand pounds of epsom salt, making it saltier than the Dead Sea.

You are weightless. Timeless. Free from distractions. It is an unparalleled opportunity for your mind and body to let go in a way you never even knew possible. Without having to deal with gravity, your body is able to enter into a state that far surpasses

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my body began. Intellectually, I knew my body was there, but physically it was as though I ceased to exist. Only my thoughts remained.

It was interesting to see where my mind went when there were no external distractions and I could no longer feel my body. At first, my thoughts wandered in a mundane fashion. What would I make for dinner? How would the surf be in the morning? Did I ever deposit that check? Slowly, my thinking began to change.

The chatter in my head began to quiet, almost as though it was moving farther away. The next thing I knew, I felt myself twitch awake. Except I hadn’t relaxation and results in been sleeping. I wasn’t sure incredible health benefits. It where I had been. I couldn’t speeds up both physical and recall my thoughts and had mental recovery. It reduces absolutely no sense of how stress, anxiety and depression much time had passed. Every and leaves you feeling calm, time I entered the tank I was recharged and at peace. able to let go a little more, and

as a result, I went further away

each time.

As surfers, we know the

healing properties of saltwater,

so it comes as no surprise I found out firsthand that floating enables athletes that sensory deprivation to heal their injuries faster. promotes clarity, creativity, It also helps to reduce lactic and mindfulness. It allows acid build up, overall tension, your brain to enter into a and muscle fatigue. The state that is highly conducive magnesium sulfate in the to mental imagery, also epsom salt acts to decrease known as visualization. This inflammation and rejuvenates technique is helping athletes sore and overworked muscles. of all kinds achieve their

peak performance, and it can

vastly improve your surfing.

Because the water is the A float tank is the perfect same temperature as your environment to practice this skin, and the salinity makes method, because your mind you positively buoyant, it is is calm and you’re completely easy to let go. My first time deprived of all your senses. in the tank, I closed my eyes Plus, you have a set amount and after a few minutes of of uninterrupted time. Studies fidgeting, began to relax. show that visualization is Within what felt like minutes, an extremely powerful tool my muscles turned to jelly. My and many top athletes rely spine elongated. Before long, heavily on this technique to I could no longer tell where improve their abilities and win the water ended and where competitions.

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Visualizations build/reinforce neural pathways in our brains.

When we think about doing something, we use the same parts of our brain that get activated when we actually do it. Researchers are consistently finding that mental imagery can be almost as effective as physical practice. Sports psychologists and coaches are helping athletes break through the boundaries of their perceived limitations by having them do both. It’s common practice for surf coaches to instruct their surfers to sit on the beach for 30 minutes before paddling out and mind surf every wave that breaks.

Float centers are popping up in cities across the country. In the past few years, the Los Angeles Dodgers, the Chicago Cubs, the New England Patriots, the Seattle Seahawks, Ohio State University and the Houston Texans all have had float tanks installed at their training facilities.

Last month, Niv Hemi and Anisa Wiseman opened Floatwise - the first float center on the North Shore, in their Pupukea home office. This duo is passionate about the benefits of sensory deprivation and is eager to share the experience with the community. Wiseman strongly believes that “everyone can benefit from floating.” She says it is a tool that can not only improve our physical, mental and spiritual health, but can also allow us to access our untapped potential and thrive in every aspect of our lives - surfing included.

For more information, visit www.floatwise.com.

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WHIMSICAL AND WEIRD WORKS WITH ARTIST KRIS GOTO

By Tiffany Foyle

Faceless surfers. Bodies crushed between the exhaustion of a musubi’s rice and spam. Black waves that look like the hair barrel of a harajuku girl’s bun.

Kris Goto’s art is unlike anything you’ve seen in the surf world, and that’s because her style mirrors her unique cultural upbringing. Born and raised in Japan, she moved to Hong Kong at the age of 9, spent two years of high school in New Zealand, and then moved to Hawaii in 2006. Her whimsical works are detailed monochromatic penwork with splashes of color.

And while she’s been focusing on the surf/ocean culture of Hawaii for the last three years, you can see every bit of manga obsession from her youth and a hint of Maori influence in the lines.

She is self-taught. “I have always drawn ever since I can remember, and wanted to be a manga artist all the way through high school,” Kris recalls. “I’d spend hours replicating the characters from my favorite stories. I cannot really say how exactly I decided to pursue the style that I currently have. I remember being fascinated with the simplicity of pen on paper, which was the only method of art that I could think of that would give me full control of the outcome.”

Control gives way to ritual when it comes to how Kris creates.

She has to clean out her desk and studio before starting a new project. “And I must cut my nails before I draw something new between projects,” she explains. “I don’t like the sense of attachment from the last piece I worked on lingering on my fingertips, so I cut them off so that I can move on.“ Another creation quirk: She doesn’t listen to music, but instead prefers TV shows as background noise, usually shows she’s already seen/listened to a thousand times.

“My usual go-to would be Gilmore Girls. I love that they talk a lot,” Kris says.

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While the young artists thinks she hasn’t had her big break yet, her surf prints currently hang on guest-room walls alongside vintage postcards at Waikiki’s newest hip place to stay, the Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club. Her FISHIES series, a 15 wood panel installation, hung from the ceiling and displayed on the brick walls at NEXTDOOR in Chinatown in 2013. She has done a variety of local art shows and murals and her prints are available in about 10 locations throughout Hawaii, such as the Greenroom Hawaii inside the Sheraton Waikiki and International Marketplace in Waikiki, Hakubundo, Magnolia (inside Kahala Mall), Honolulu Museum of Art Shop and Aesthetic Hawaii Gallery on the Big Island.

“I can tell you how nerve-wracking it was to see my artwork on a wall in a gallery for the first time,” she says. “I didn’t have enough money then to even buy a frame, so it was literally nicely ‘taped’ onto a wall. I felt like people were watching me shower or something — so bare and vulnerable.”

Art has always been a part of who Kris is, so it was just natural for her to believe that she would make art for a living. “I’ve never considered doing anything else,” she admits. “I have never

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seen art as a hobby, it’s a part of me, like your lungs. I had it and it’s as natural as it is for me to breathe.”

shortboard on the other hand, I feel like a stale spinach floating away on the surface of the vast sea.”

This is Kris’s third year of being fully and independently supported by art. Prior to making that scary transition, she used to work on a boat off of Waikiki where she learned about marine life and how the ocean works. Kris’s first wave was in 2010 and she was quickly addicted to surfing, especially the way the ocean tugs onto her hair when underwater and when breaking the surface. “Some people don’t like to wait for the sets to come, but I personally love to dip in the water and imagine my body dissolving into the element of the ocean, wondering if anyone would notice if I just disappear,” she says. “Surfing feels as if I am flirting with the waves, especially when I ride my singlefin longboard — tantalizing and mysterious. When I am on a

Current artistic inspirations include human anatomy, cornbread and muffin tops. Yes, you read that right! When asked to expand on this, Kris shrugs and says, “That’s just what’s been on my mind lately. I really don’t know why.” This makes sense when you look at her series called “Umbrellas” (a bunch of red umbrellas making cameos in a variety of surf scenes). Cornbread and muffin tops shredding the gnar will be yet another stroke of genius that Kris Goto fans will be excited to see.

To see her portfolio, visit www.krisgoto.com.

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CALL TO ACTION: HOW YOU CAN WIN $10K BY RIDING AN ECOBOARD THIS WINTER

Nash Howe

E N V I R O N M E N T

By Kahi Pacarro

Cliff Kapono

What’s taking you so long? Why are you still riding a standard PU or EPS surfboard? Is it because you don't believe the alternatives are good enough? Is it because your shaper doesn’t offer ecofriendly options? Is it because your favorite surfers don’t ride them? Or is it because you just don’t care?

The frustration brewing inside of Cliff Kapono and myself have manifested itself into a project we are launching this Winter to convince you to make your next board an ecoboard. The project is called The ProTest. It’s a double entendre on the word Protest. It’s a protest against the conventional surfboard and an opportunity for the Pro’s to Test a quiver of ecoboards we are creating in collaboration with the world's best shapers. Best part is, you too will get a chance to ride these same boards. With our World's surfing elite leading by example, the masses will follow.

On November 1st, the ProTest will officially launch. A prize purse of $10,000 is up for grabs for the best ride of the winter on an ecoboard plus $1,000 for the team that submits the video. The competition will run until February 28, 2018. On March 1st, the same boards that the Pro's will be testing will then become available to you. You’ll get a chance to surf the same quiver that the world's top surfers were riding days prior. What you’ll realize is that ecoboards provide the same performance and often times even better performance than your standard shortboard.

Why are we doing this? Because we think everyone should be riding an ecoboard, but very few actually are. With over 400,000 surfboards made annually and only a small fraction of them as 90

ecoboards, we are on a path of continued disregard to the fact that traditional surfboards are toxic. When you can understand that our surfboards are petroleum based (made out of oil) you start to understand that our lifestyle of caring for our oceans needs to extend to the craft we are riding, otherwise our actions of using less plastic, recycling, and cleaning up beaches are negated by our hesitance to adopting environmentally better alternatives to the traditional surfboard.

With a pop out, mass produced, short life span, toxic surfboard army at our doorsteps, we need to combat the movement by ordering ecoboards. Basic economics state that increased demand will create more supply. It will also create what are called economies of scale, which means that the more quantity that is created, the lower the cost for the individual part. In another positive, increased demand will create more innovation as there is now money involved in ecoboard technologies.

To put that in basic terms, the more people riding ecoboards, the cheaper and better they will become.

The top World Championship Tour surfers are dabbling in the eco-technologies. Jordy Smith is now riding ecoboards made from recycled foam and bio-based resins in collaboration with Channel Islands. Kelly Slater continues to push not only the design of his boards but also the materials. Greg Long is taking ecoboards into the biggest waves in the World. Michel Bourez and his superman hacks are done on ecoboards. The tipping point is within reach, and our goal is to utilize the ProTest to get

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us over that final hurdle. For 2018, instead of just a small portion of the 400,000 boards annually as ecoboards, we want to see a substantial percentage as ecoboards.

For the ProTest, to qualify your entry into the competition, the board must be similar to the Gold Standard set by Sustainable Surf. This means that your board is made from a minimum of 25% recycled foam or other alternatives like algae foam or wood in addition to utilizing a resin that replaces at least 20% of the combined resin/catalyst content with a bio based alternative.

Shapers are encouraged to get creative, to push the envelope and to push their riders to switch to ecoboards.

We need to push the market and not wait for the market to dictate how we act. Mark Price from Firewire says it right: “companies should realize that at some point in the future, if you’re not operating your business in the most sustainable way possible, consumers will reject your products.”

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Winter is coming, so keep an eye out for the ProTest quiver. You don’t have to wait to get influenced by your favorite surfers. Get an ecoboard shaped now and pack the sickest barrel of your life, maybe you’ll win $10K! For more info, check out @theProTest.tv and www.theprotest.tv.

Kahi Pacarro is the Executive Director of Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii.

INDUSTRY NOTES In September, Vans released its anticipated film entitled Greetings, which features Dylan Graves, Wade Goodall, Dane and Patrick Gudauskas and their anecdotes from adventures through the Caribbean Sea. To see the 13 minute edit, filled with high performance surfing, beautiful beachbreaks and the newest products from Vans, visit Freesurfmagazine.com!

On Saturday, November 18th, the 15th Annual John Kelly Awards will take place at Waimea Valley. Surfrider Oahu's John Kelly Environmental Achievement Awards recognize those who have made the greatest contributions towards protecting and enhancing our coastal community and environment. To be a part of the celebration honoring the legacy of John Kelly, along with a gourmet meal from Ke Nui Kitchen, a world-class Silent Auction, and amazing beats from local band Good Foot & friends, visit www. johnkellyawards.com and oahu.surfrider.org!

Quiksilver released its newest installment of Radical Times, this time focusing on a boardrider’s guide to Southern California. The film features Hawaiians like Zeke Lau, Koa Rothman, along with other Quiksilver talent including Jeremy Flores, Mikey Wright, Kanoa Igarashi, Kade Matson, Zach Miller, Jesse Mendes and more. Focusing on the “California allure — the promise of something new, that gravity that draws you towards its mountains and waves”, the film runs about 17 minutes. You can find the full edit live on Freesurfmagazine.com!

At the start of the winter season, Redbull released Paradigm Lost, a film chronicling the exploits of Kai Lenny. The film explores “What defines a surfer? Is it the art of wave riding or the equipment you ride? For Kai Lenny, the ocean is a playground and the only rule is to have fun.” In the film, Kai shares sessions with World Champions in the big wave arena, progressive surfing, kitesurfing, windsurfing and SUP, along with the surf foil. The film also includes Albee Layer, Jamie O’Brien, John John Florence, Kelly Slater, Kalani Chapman, Robby Naish, Laird Hamilton, Clyde Aikau, Dave Kalama and more. Visit Paradigmlostmovie.com for more information.

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The surf community gathered together in September at Sunset Beach to honor the life of Jason Magers, who grew up on the North Shore and passed away earlier in the year. He was 50 years old. By age 12, Magers, who grew up on the North Shore, was already surfing Waimea, and in 1998, he famously paddled out during a "Condition Black" swell - meaning that the ocean was off limits later washing ashore and being placed in handcuffs by police. A courageous big wave charger, Magers loved to share his passion of surfing with others. Our deepest condolences go to the Magers family.

Tragedy struck the surf community in September, when 16-year-old Zander Venezia died while surfing swell from Hurricane Irma in Barbados. Zander, an up and coming star from the island, paddled out at an undisclosed location and after catching a handful of amazing waves, his body was spotted floating inside of everyone in the water. Nathan Florence was the first to reach him, administering CPR until paramedics arrived. Zander was later pronounced dead. Condolences immediately poured in: “By all accounts you were as good a friend as you were a surfer...thank you for the impact you had on those around you for a life lived with joy and purpose,” said Kelly Slater.

“I'm going to miss you so much Zander! You had such an amazing session today,” said Florida’s Asher Nolan. “...You were humble, respectful, full of positive energy that every kid should look up to and live the way you did. Gone too soon. My heart is heavy. The Venezias always treated me like family and it hurts that they have to go through losing someone so special.”

Our hearts go out to Zander's family and the Barbados surfing community.

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Winter season and all that comes with it - an endless run of swell, high drama at contests and surfers like Jamie O’Brien pulling into deep Pipeline barrels - is back, and we’re expecting it to be better than ever.

Photo: Tony Heff