Freesurf Magazine V15N10 2018 Beach & Board Buyer's Guide by Freesurf Magazine

2018

BEACH & BOARD BUYERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GUIDE Profile / Ryan "Chachi" Craig Yo u A r e W h a t Yo u R i d e Aperture

V15

#10

#stillfree

Photo: Shane Grace

VANS.COM/ULTRARANGE

Available at Barnfield’s Raging Isle and HIC

J O H N

F L O R E N C E

Sequence: Mike Latronic

Ezekiel Lau Highline Performance Boardshorts

North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii Oct. 27 - Nov. 9, 2018

Art by Danielle Zirk

Official Qualifier of The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing

Watch It Live! www.vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com & Spectrum SURF Channel 20 & 1020HD

F R E E

P A R K I N G

“I make it a point to continually try to push my own comfort zone, it’s both rewarding and terrifying at the same time and that’s an amazing combination.”- Ryan “Chachi” Craig . Kalani Chapman, Pipeline.

O F

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D E P A R T M E N T S

10 Free Parking

80 Surf Expo

18 Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Note

82 They Rip

20 Cmmunity

88 Surf Art

30 Memoriam

92 Environment

54 Aperture

94 Industry Notes

76 Pau Hana

96 Last Look

Keoki

T A B L E

Keoki

F E A T U R E S

34 Ryan “Chachi” Craig

YOU ARE WHAT YOU RIDE

54 Daniel Ito

CHACHI

QueensMarketPlace.net

64 BEACH & BOARD BUYER’S GUIDE

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic

In Praise of

Editorial Director Keoki Saguibo 2018

Art Director John Weaver

BEACH & BOARD BUYER’S GUIDE Profile / Ryan "Chachi" Craig Yo u A r e W h a t Yo u R i d e Aperture

Multimedia Director Andrew Oliver Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic

Pumpkin

V15

Assistant Editors Kyveli Diener, Mara Pyzel

smash

#10

#stillfree

Photo: Shane Grace

Account Executives Tane KuAli'iokalani Haili Kekuhaupi'o VII, Luiz Jardini

RETURN OF FAL L FAVORIT ES

West Coast Distribution Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395 Hawai`i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395 Staff Photographers Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Keoki Saguibo, Andrew Storer Contributing Writers Kyveli Diener, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Alexandra Kahn, Ben Marcus, Kahi Pacarro, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting Interns Aukai Ng

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Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brent Bielmann, Brian Bielmann, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Dayanidhi Das, Jeff Divine, Dooma, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Shane Grace, Dane Grady, John Hook, Mike Ito, Bryce Johnson, Alexandra Kahn, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Jason Kenworthy, Chris Kincaide, Ryan Miller, Zak Noyle, Andrew Oliver, Shawn Pila, Jimmy Wilson Business Development Arthur Lessing (808) 383-8209 Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 383-9220

un Pumpkin Cr bowl

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FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2015

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N O T E

By Keoki Saguibo

“The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun,” said legendary surfer Phil Edwards, a sentiment that still rings true amongst us surfers today. That feeling of having a great session wherever you are in the world gives us a head high, like a drug, leading to lifestyle changes that forever encapsulate us surfers. When it comes to wave riding, we are creative in our ways and the approaches we take are just as unique as our own style. Choosing the right board to express ourselves, or to just have some fun, can be a daunting task - as well as a path to surf enlightenment. For surfers choosing to compete, the board is like a trusted tool that needs to work how you need it to, when the time comes, under any circumstance or conditions. As a big wave surfer, catching the wave and getting the speed to make the giant walls of water seems to be a life-or-death priority. For Pipeline, a spot where boards have seen design changes over the decades, the perfect board is still being sought after and defined by the world’s best surfers and specialist alike, all aiming to get the best wave of the winter season. For the eccentric, boards play multiple roles and a single-use design can be used to draw unique new lines and approaches to riding any size in any wave condition. The approaches are endless, as are the board designs for which our creativity is the leader to what comes next. For some, being creative is a way of life lived daily by means of mental alleviation or through one’s professional career. We’ve tapped into the artistic eye of traveling surf photographer Ryan “Chachi” Craig to see what he captures through his view of the world. We also showcase artists giving back to the community with Kirk Hammett of heavy metal band Metallica teaming up with Access Surf to empower those with disabilities at the Access Surf “Surf with the Stars” event. Being involved with the ocean in any way has its positive effects for the long run. For lifeguard Josh Guerra, his dedication to the ocean was shown through his life’s work of protecting those who enjoy the ocean daily and he served as a positive role model to others who knew him. The sense of fulfilment and fun that surfing brings will deem anyone of us the best surfer in the line up at any moment. Armed with a good board, some fun waves, and great friends, “the best surfer out there” becomes the pioneer of their own style while having fun, leading to a lifetime of being a surfer.

Keoki

E D I T O R ’ S

C O M M U N I T Y

WAVES FOR WATER By Mara Pyzel

Access to clean water is something we often take for granted in our first-world lives, but it is a precious commodity many in the world live without. Thanks to former pro surfer Jon Rose’s organization, clean drinking water has reached seven million people, living in even the farthest reaches of the world, and drastically improved their quality of life. Rose’s organization, Waves for Water, implements clean water programs that consist of digging and restoring bore-hole wells, rainwater harvesting systems, and portable filtration systems in remote villages and disaster zones, providing struggling communities with healthy drinking water. Says Rose, “Surfing was a platform to travel. Doing contests, magazine trips… getting out there into the world. And with surfing, in most cases [these trips] are in underdeveloped countries and when you’re there it is impossible not to think that, Wow this is different. How is it and why is it? So it became a natural evolution for me; It all really clicked that Wow I can really make a difference with this one issue. And already being familiar with these remote places through surfing... it was great intel to have.” Waves for Water got its start in 2009 when disaster struck during a surf trip Rose was on in Indo. A devastating earthquake left the country in shock and in

The concept of Waves for Water is simple: we already travel to obscure edges of the earth just to surf that perfect, empty break. So, why not use that trip to make a difference?

W A V E S

F O R

Also contributing to the success of all Wave for Water programs is Waves their ongoing partnership with Hurley. The surf brand has generously contributed goods, manpower, finances, and anything else needed, allowing Waves for Water to thrive, reaching 27 countries to date.

Jon Roseman and crew, Haiti.

W A T E R

an overwhelming state of emergency. By chance, Rose happened to have brought with him some basic water filtration systems he had been planning on distributing to a few of the communities in the area anyway so when the Richter hit 7.9 and chaos ensued, Rose, without hesitation, began distributing filters amongst residents whose access to a reliable water source had been compromised. The rapid response came naturally to the surfer and just like that, Waves for Water was born. The concept of Waves for Water is simple: we already travel to obscure edges of the earth just to surf that perfect, empty break. So, why not use that trip to make a difference? For example, that extra space in your bag can pack a shoe-sized filtration device that can change the health of an entire village. Inexpensive and lightweight, each tap and bucket system is easily assembled and provides years of bacteria-free drinking water. It is with this simple approach that Rose has seen the success of the Waves for Water Courier Program grow exponentially. Also contributing to the success of all Wave for Water programs is Waves their ongoing partnership with Hurley. The surf brand has generously contributed goods, manpower, finances, and anything else needed, allowing Waves for Water to thrive, reaching 27 countries to date. The Waves for Water model has proven sustainable, as the organization focuses on the involvement and education of community members regarding the importance and proper usage of the filtration systems, thus allowing the community to continuously reap the benefits of clean

W A V E S

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drinking water independently. Despite being a grand scale operation, the core team of just thirty New York City based employees relies on the support of volunteers (like you!) to keep Waves for Water effective, maximizing their output. By connecting with leaders in these communities, Waves for Water is able to accomplish their mission to “truly connect with people, establish a sense of trust and rapport, and provide a high level of individual attention and personal care to all of our projects”. The individual attention and personal care are particularly important, as it is an individual’s health that is compromised when regular access to clean water is nonviable. The microfiber cartridge filters out 99.9% of the bacteria, protozoa, and cysts known to cause giardia, cholera, dysentery, typhoid, and other gastrointestinal issues. General malaise, upset stomach, diarrhea, dehydration, even death, can result from exposure to such contaminantes - exposure the water filtration systems prevent.

8ft Classic Shape | 7ft Classic Shape | 6ft Swallow Tail Shape

When asked about the best way to support Waves for Water, Rose encourages traveling surfers to join the courier program saying, “Eventually [surfers] will do that one trip they have saved up for to Indo or South or Central America, so they can sign up on the website to create a courier page which is a crowdfunding platform and by sharing that [personalized] page with their own network, they can set a goal. Then their friends and other people they know can help pay for that filters at no cost to [the traveler] and they are given all the filters they need and also get the proper training on how to use them. It’s no extra cost and you customize your page so your friends are giving you money, so your own group of friends who are helping this solve the problem.” Rose also cites social media shares and signing up for the newsletter on the Waves for Water website. Visiting the site can provide those interested with further information about ways to donate and can provide more information about the NGOs partnerships with other groups, including the US military. There, you can see pictures of these filters, founder Jon Rose, get up-to-date stats on ongoing projects, and sign up to be a courier yourself! Check out www.wavesforwater.org or [@ wavesforwater] on Instagram and Twitter.

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C O M M U N I T Y

2018 HAWAI’I ADAPTIVE SURFING CHAMPIONSHIPS Surfing with the Stars Photos Ha`a Keaulana and John Weaver

This year’s event as part AccesSurf’s 11th Hawai`i Adaptive Surfing Championship, an annual international adaptive surfing competition during Duke’s OceanFest, Waikiki’s premier ocean sports festival honoring surf legend Duke Kahanamoku. This year marked the biggest athlete attendance to date with 80 surfers with disabilities from 15 nations. Competing again this year’s Hawai’i Adaptive Surf Championships includes 2017 HASC Champion Felipe Lima (Brazil) and Hawai’i’s own Rich Julian, a pioneer of adaptive surfing and Ann Yoshida 2017 ISA world-champion women’s prone division and Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation 2018 Waterman Hallof-Fame inductee.

Celebrity surfers took on the waves for a good cause! The event included a meet and greet including photos and autograph signing. Celebrities included Makua Rothman, Bob Hurley, Metallica’s Kirk Hammett, Benji Weatherly, Joel Centeio, Guy Hagi, and Kala Alexander.

The 2018 Hawai`i Adaptive Surfing Championships flew by, you could say like a hurricane... But, though mother nature was a bit fickle, the vibes were amazing as the entire adaptive surfing world came together in Hawai`i. Mahalo to the athletes, volunteers, and sponsors enough for making this such an incredible year. The biggest and best by far. From the opening ceremony to the final buzzer it was all pure aloha and stoke.

BEACH FREELY

C O M M U N I T Y

BIKINIS

2018 Hawai’i Adaptive Surfing Championships Results Men’s Sit division 1st Felipe Lima, Brazil 2nd Chris Oberle, USA 3rd Jeff Munson, USA 4th Elias Valencia, Chile Women’s Sit division 1st Meira Va’a Duarte, Hawaiì 2nd Alana Nichols, USA 3rd Victoria Feige, Canada 4th Diane Whitcomb, Hawaiì Men’s Stand Division 1st Pegleg Bennett, Great Britain 2nd David Conner, Hawaiì 3rd Sean Reyngoudt, Switzerland 4th Thomas Iikkala, Hawaiì

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Women’s Stand Division 1st Dani Burt, USA 2nd Charlotte Banfield, Great Britain 3rd Faith Lennox, Hawaiì 4th Darian Haynes, Hawaiì Kneel Division results 1st Mark ‘Mono’ Stewart, Australia 2nd Alcino Pirate, Brazil 3rd Lylwelyn ‘Sponge’ Williams, Wales 4th Victoria Feige, Canada Prone Division 1st Bruno Hansen, Denmark 2nd Ann Yoshida, Hawaiì 3rd Spike Kane, Great Britain 4th Paulo Renato Bottaro Loreto, Brazil

Men’s Assisted Division 1st Davi Teixeira de Aguiar, Brazil 2nd Brook Johnson, USA 3rd Izumo Hattori, Japan 4th Hunter Pochop, USA Women’s Assisted Division 1st Quin Waitley, USA 2nd Ava Heller, Hawaiì 3rd Robyn Harvey, Australia 4th Heather Markham, USA Deaf Division 1st Pierre-Olivier Coutant, France 2nd Josh Beal, HAW 3rd Paul McDonell HAW Wounded Warrior A 1st Tommy Counihan, Hawaiì 2nd Dana Cummings, USA 3rd Buster Kawasaki, Hawaiì 4th Mark Thorton, USA Wounded Warrior B 1st Anthony Lynch, HAW 2nd Michelle Tippens, Hawaiì 3rd Jeffery Taylor, USA 4th Mickey Scott, Hawaiì Visually Impaired results 1st Matt Formston, Australia 2nd Joshua Loya, USA 3rd Scott Leason, USA 4th Barbie Pacheco, USA

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I N

M E M O R I A M

LIFEGUARD JOSH GUERRA Kurt Lager

By Mara Pyzel

Whenever it came up that someone knew Josh Guerra, the next question was, naturally, ‘How so?’, from which any number of responses may flow: longboarding, hiking, running, bodysurfing, the music scene, yoga, volunteer work, ocean safety, UH baseball games, or simply just through friends, as Josh seemed to know everyone. A natural surfer, international traveler, skier, talented drummer, avid reader, marathon runner, songwriter, guitarist, and, above all, loving friend to so many, Josh was wholeheartedly dedicated to his every endeavor. Recalls friend and lifeguard Kirk Ziegler of Josh’s frequent time in the ocean, “One of his favorite surfing platforms was the paipo board. It was always in his car with a pair of fins ready to go! He would always explain to me how the feeling of planing felt on the paipo and how fast and connected he was to the waves.” Devoting 17 years in Ocean Safety to the protection of beachgoers at Sandys, Makapu’u, Kailua, and Hanauma, and just an all-around upstanding guy, Josh is perhaps best remembered for his optimism, camaraderie, catching smile, and happy-go-lucky attitude. “It was more so just the pure energy he carried into the water and having him cheer you on

a wave, then talking about the waves we had just caught over a beer,” remembers close friend and fellow lifeguard Kurt Lager, “It is that kind of stuff I will miss the most.” Josh proudly served as a City and County Lifeguard, Rescue Operator, and Lieutenant of Ocean Safety, stationed at Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve. Josh’s brother Steve Chamberlain, also a lifeguard, described Josh’s commitment to the profession in the Star Advertiser saying, “He loved (being a lifeguard) and he was very vocal about making sure other lifeguards were at their best. That was a big deal for him.” Leaving with us his aloha spirit, Josh, or “Goat” as he was known to many, passed away unexpectedly August 21, 2018, but his kindness, warm heart, limitless talent, and his commitment to keeping others safe will continue to inspire all of us whose lives he touched. A hui hou, Josh. Josh’s life was celebrated by friends, family, and the ocean safety community in a moving Sept. 4th paddle out at Kailua Beach Boat Ramp. Josh’s giving spirit continues to shine, saving the lives of three others through his organ donation.

E V E N T S

MANULELE AWARDS The Manulele Awards is Hawai`i’s own surfing poll awards dedicated to the athletes from the industry’s top individuals, media, and fans alike. It’s the only poll awards where you, the viewer, can vote for Hawai`i’s top surfers in eight different categories ranging from top male/female performers to Ambassador of Aloha. We’ve reached out to business owners, coaches, team managers, and company reps to compile names that would be apart of the selection process for the top four nominees of each category. We left one space for the fifth nominee to be chosen by you, our readers. Here you can enter up to one athlete of your choice for each category or vote from the nominee list. You can vote online at our website www.freesurfmagazine.com or find the link on our Facebook or Instagram page. Here are your nominees for each category: TOP MALE SURFER Zeke Lau John John Florence Seth Moniz Josh Moniz [write in]

AMBASSADOR OF ALOHA Jason Shibata Rainos Hayes Keanu Asing Tammy Moniz [write in]

TOP FEMALE SURFER Carissa Moore Coco Ho Malia Manuel Paige Alms [write in]

ALL-AROUND WATERMAN Kai Lenny John John Florence Ian Walsh Mark Healy [write in]

MOST PROGRESSIVE Seth Moniz Albee Layer Barron Mamiya Jamie O'Brien [write in]

WEB SURFER Albee Layer Jamie O'Brien Koa Rothman Koa Smith [write in]

BIG WAVE CHARGER Billy Kemper Makua Rothman Nathan Florence Ian Walsh [write in]

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT Ben Aipa Fred Hemmings Eddie Rothman Dave Riddle [write in]

Vote online at freesurfmagazine.com

2018

MANULELE AWARDS Celebrating Hawai`iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Top Water Men and Women

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Keoki

YOU ARE WHAT YOU The approach we take to riding waves are as unique as fingerprints. We have our own style of riding waves on boards we think suit our strive to become better surfers. To some, high performance surfing and progression of the sport with new airs and faster lines on a wave is key to maxing out their talent in which their board needs to meet those standards. For the others, a cruisy approach with bigger boards or unique shapes where effort is minimal but style on how you ride a wave is key to expressing yourself. For the very few, survival. A solid board that is meant for speed to outrun mountains of water with every millisecond counted to making the wave or the wipeout of your life. Whatever path we choose, there is a board that fits our style and approach.

We spoke to key individuals that have chosen different paths in their surf career about their quivers and the key elements of their boards for them to maximize potential for world titles, catching the wave of a lifetime, or flowing with the ocean to appreciate surfing for all itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth.

RIDE

YOU ARE WH

HAT YOU RIDE

Honolua Blomfield adding her sense of style to the unqiue skill and balance of noserding. Photo:Keoki

Keoki

E M E R I C K I S H I K AWA DOUBLE ENDER

Boards of the past and present are known to be a one direction shape that has design leaps over the decades. They are shaped to project the board forward with outlines and fins progressing boards to that motion. Emerick Ishikawa, a Barber’s Point Lifeguard and shaper, came up with the idea of combining two boards into one that can be ridden both ways, a double ender. “The double enders I shape are made to adapt to waves at any given moment. If the waves are more slopey, I can ride on one side to adapt to the waves, and if I want to paddle to a steeper wave down the way or conditions change, I take out my fin and switch to the other side and it works just as good.” Emerick’s shapes have fin boxes on both the nose and the tail (or tail and the nose, depending on your view), with variations such as twin fins, 2 + 1 setup, single-fin, and thruster.The idea behind his reasoning came from growing up in Hawaii, where a wide amount of different wave types are usually just a paddle away. “The shapes work great even though both sides are the tail and the nose, on the wave you’re mostly on the back half of the board,” Ishikawa said. His approach to waves is smooth, fast, non-restrictive, and has

a knack for laying down some on- rail gouges. Last season Emerick had a solid run of sizeable OTW days on his double ender shapes and is conjuring more ideas for this coming season. To be able to get on one of Emericks double ender shapes is pretty rare. He doesn’t like machine shapes and does a lot of homework about the client before crafting a shape. “The double-enders are made for brown belts and above,” he said. “You need to know how to ride waves so you can maximize the potential of yourself and the board.”

PIPE BOARD

The perfect man to wave relationship can be summed up in one iconic image: Kalani Chapman deeply slotted inside a Pipeline barrel in November 2010 that could easily house a mack truck. Standing tall on his board, his face somewhere between shocked, mesmerized, and humbled. Chapman took that moment to honor a recently fallen brother, Andy Irons, by bringing his hands together in a solemn prayer. That historic barrel ride became the first-ever Wave of the Winter, and one of the many benchmarks Chapman has set for himself in a constant effort to improve his personal surfing. “I’m trying to find a wave like that again. I hope it finds me,” Chapman said, wistfully gazing from his lanai in the direction of Rocky Point. “All you can do it go out, try to ride the right equipment, use your knowledge to be in the right place, and hope it comes. It might take five, ten years, it might not ever come. But all you can do is try and be ready for when it does, if it does.” Chapman has noticed the barrage of young surfers frothing to surf Pipeline just like John John Florence, thinking if they paddle out on a 6’4 into heavy barreling Pipe they’ll get the wave of their lives. Kalani is the opposite of such a lemming: his equipment choices, from the board (usually a Owl Chapman shape, these days) to the funs (large Mayhems) to the wax (Sex Wax, the red one), are all meticulously planned based on conditions and his own personal, heavy-footed, powerful surf style. Not to say he doesn’t have an ideal all-conditions board for Pipeline.

Keoki

KALANI CHAPMAN

“I’d say a 6’10, pretty much the thicker the better, just so you have the paddling momentum that you need because the waves move so quickly and jack up so fast that if you’re just paddling and not going anywhere you’re going to end up in the lip and go over the falls,” he mused. “6’10, thick, if I could have one board for Pipeline it would be that.” But the best wave he ever got at Pipe (alongside the prayer hands barrel) was actually caught on a 9’0 single fin shaped by his uncle that took him three years to find the perfect day to ride. When he finally did in 2005, it changed him. “I got the wave of my life on it. There was nobody around me and everybody was sitting just on the inside of first reef and I paddled in between second and first, but there were these huge cleanup sets but I perfectly timed everything. I went to the lineup that I know and sure enough a wave came to me — as soon as I saw the wave, I knew, ‘This is it.’ It had my name on it and I had the board and it was all right in front of me and I just had to man up and go, and I did,” he remembered. “I never rode a single fin a Pipeline before that — I was asking Herbie Fletcher on the beach how to ride it and he said, ‘Just set your line and hang on!’ It would’ve been Wave of the Winter if there was one back then, there was no bigger wave that whole winter.”

LONGBOARD

It’s a good sign when a surfer has been doing what they love so long they can’t even remember their first board. That’s exactly the case for Oahu-grown 2017 World Longboard Champion Honolua Blomfield, 19, who started out on a shortboard but was finally able to recall her first longboard: “My first longboard was like a Surf Lite foamy thing, a blue foamy that I had for contests when I was like 8 or 9,” she said with a laugh. “I think [my first proper board] was a Dennis Pang longboard from my dad with flames on it. Me and my older brother Keone shared it and my dad would push me in on it in contests.” These days, Hono rides two types of longboards depending on the occasion. For World Surf League contests, the champ will travel with three 9’0 epoxy Classic Malibu high performance longboards with 2 + 1 set ups, an option that allows her to collect maximum points on nose rides and turns alike. Then there are all the logging contests Blomfield participates in, like the Duct Tape Invitational she won over he summer in Huntington Beach, which require heavier, longer, singlefin boards with no leash. The North Shore native is quick to admit

Keoki

HONOLUA BLOMFIELD

that she prefers riding logs to high pros, though she’s adept on both. “I like it a lot better because I feel more myself and can really show my style and express myself. When you’re high pro-ing you can do both turns and nose rides and stuff, but there’s not as much style involved in that, and I personally think surfing is all about style. To each their own, I guess,” the mellow Hawaiian said. Her go-to all-conditions board that one can normally find her on at home is a 9’9 Two Crows log that she rides in anything from two to six foot surf, most likely at her favorite spots of Sunset and Ehukai. “[My best day was on] my 9’9 at Ehukai one day, it was like 4 foot solid. I caught a couple waves and it was insane, I kept sneaking out the back just in time before the sets so it was like all-time session, best one of my life,” she said. “The best feeling is longboarding on a sick wave, you know? That’s what keeps me going. Just perfect size, not too big, but enough where you can stand up there so high up, hanging ten. I just think thats the coolest thing.”

Seth Moniz has expanded minds on the capabilities of the high performance shortboard, particularly with airs that leave us pinching ourselves like the recent outrageous circus act he pulled to make Quarterfinals at the Vans US Open in Huntington Beach in July. Now in the top spot on the WQS and on a fast track to the elite World Championship Tour, the multifaceted member of the storied Kewalos Crew — alongside Carissa Moore, Zeke Lau, Keanu Asing, and brother Josh Moniz — is preparing to represent his prestigious family on yet another world surfing stage. Seth was the last of the Moniz children to receive his own surfboard, but when he finally did it was a keeper: he won a custom John Carper board in a raffle by complete luck. Since then, getting zippy custom sticks has become easier, and strikingly more frequent. Seth said that it only takes about two weeks for each board in the finely glassed quiver he gets regularly from Wade Takoro to be creased, dinged, or smashed beyond repair. But that’s an occupational hazard when the majority of your sessions are spent head-high above the lip. Though Seth has to account for his still-growing frame with added thickness and width on his new North Shore winter quiver, he said the length stayed about the same: 6’0 to 6’8, with the bigger boards

Gavin Shigesato

SETH MONIZ

HIGH PERFORMANCE

reserved for windier conditions with wave faces over 10 feet and the boards between 6’2 and 6’4 being ideal for waves between 6 and 8 feet high. Moniz says a 6’2 is an ideal go-to shortboard length for most conditions, though his go-to board for fun town surf is shorter at just 5’9. Another new addition to the brand new quiver this winter foreshadows his hopes for the CT: a deep red Roman numeral 7 (VII) across the nose of the board to represent the Moniz ohana, made up of seven family members including Oahu surf legend and super surf dad Tony, tiger mom Tammi, champion long boarder sister Kelia, and Volcom Pipe Pro champion Josh, who Seth dearly hopes will qualify with him at the end of the Triple Crown season. One other board where Seth chose to honor his family history is on his sole big wave gun, a 9’6 blade adorned with his father’s classic airbrush art, a board that is responsible for one of Seth’s best surfing days ever. “I got a wave out at Jaws that I’ll probably remember forever because it was my first time out there and I got a barrel,” Moniz said of the day Shane Dorian surprised him with a sesh out at Pe’ahi, Maui’s equal part idyllic and terrifying XXL wave, where Moniz rode the gun he’d previously reserved for Waimea charging. “I never made it out [of that barrel,] but it was a memorable session and a memorable wave.”

BIG WAVE

They say to never bring a knife to a gun fight, and two-time Men’s Big Wave World Champion Billy Kemper lives by that creed every time he paddles out at his beloved Jaws (or Nazare, or Maverick’s, or Puerto Escondido) with his arsenal of towering, angular big wave guns. Billy got his first paddle-in gun for Jaws around the age of 20 after five years of tow-in practice on what he calls, “the best big wave in the world, nothing can touch it pound for pound or perfectionwise in big waves.” “I’m pretty straight up with what I ride out there, whether it’s windy or glassy. I have my magic numbers and the boards I’m really conformable on and I don’t switch it up to much,” Kemper said. “If it’s big and it’s on and I’m looking to ride the wave of my life, I’m riding a 10’4 [about 3 3/4 thick and around 21 inches wide] Town & Country surfboard shaped by Glenn Pang or Pyzel.” Billy’s dimensions for his Jaws boards are pretty locked in, but when he travels to other big wave spots Kemper tailors his selections the wave’s demands. On his next trip to Nazare, the champ chose to trust local

shapers in Portugal, sending them files with his usual measurements and allowing them to create the best options for the unruly recordsetting beach break using their locals knowledge (with no risk to Kemper’s existing boards). Conversely, for trips to the Mexican Pipeline in Puerto Escondido, Kemper packs a multitude of his own boards to fit the wave’s many faces. He said he’ll bring between four and six boards ranging from 8’0 to 9’6, with options at every six inches in between. Regardless of board selection, there is one very special tradition Billy likes to add to every gun he rides in waves of consequence. “For big waves, on the front of my board basically right under my eyes it always says ‘Little E’ or ‘Eric,’ and that’s my brother that I lost when I was 8 years old,” Billy said. “He created this path for me, he walked these footsteps, and when I got to a certain age I had to keep walking and create my own footsteps. If there’s ever a doubt in my mind, I just look down and there’s never a second guess when I see those words I write on my board. Basically every board I paddle out in big waves it’s there, and it’s there for the right reason.

Heff

B I L LY K E M P E R

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RIDE OUR WAVE OF KNOWLEDGE Voted Honolulu & Hawaii’s BEST REAL ESTATE FIRM! Let us share our local knowledge with you! Stop by our office at the Haleiwa Store Lots for a free market analysis, or call 808-637-1500. Parking available. HALEIWA STORE LOTS | 66-111 KAMEHAMEHA HWY. UNIT #902 | HALEIWA, HI 96712 | BETTERHAWAII.COM ©2018 Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty North Shore. Better Homes and Gardens® is a registered trademark of Meredith Corporation licensed to Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate LLC. Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. An Independently Owned and Operated Franchise. Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty North Shore are affiliates of Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty.

PR O F I L E

RYA N

CHACHI CRA IG

Photos Ryan "Chachi" Craig The influence of surf imagery takes many forms when it comes the creative eye. Whether the approach is from land, water, or air, inspiration is drawn from new angles of seeing the repetitiveness of top turns, airs, and barrels. For Santa Cruz native and with a striking resemblance to Scott Baio of Happy Times, Ryan â&#x20AC;&#x153;Chachiâ&#x20AC;? Craig, a documentary/ travel photographer with roots stemming from surf photography, has travelled throughout the world documenting lifestyle, scenic landscape, and chasing swells.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

I had way too much fun shooting imagery from my drone this past winter, it was my first season on the North Shore with this camera in my arsenal and man was it fun to mess around with. In additions to providing so many new vantage points to shoot, the process of sitting on a couch, in the shade and at the Volcom house was pretty surreal.

Koa Smith

Sunset lines

Does Scott Baio have anything to do with "Chachi?" How did you get your nickname? I have a striking resemblance to Scott Baio in his 'Charles in Charge' and 'Happy Days' time. This was when I was 16 and nicknames in Santa Cruz probably stick more than many other places. Santa Cruz was a very tight-knit community when I was growing up.

How did it start for you? I got my first camera when i was 21 years old, a Canon Rebel film camera. I enrolled in my first photography course at Cabrillo College - Santa Cruz's community college- in which Landscape photography was my main focus. Who are your influences? To be fair, I think Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve drawn inspiration from more people then I can count. I respect and gravitate towards photographers that shoot well in all conditions and subjects. I have always been a really big fan of Nate Lawrence's content for many reasons but one of them is that he is very well rounded.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

This trip to Papua New Guinea with Josh Moniz eventually landed me my first cover for Surfer with a super similar shot of Leo Fioravanti. The local kids came out to watch everyone surf and they were yelling at the top of their lungs with excitement during every wave ridden. This place was about as far removed from the US as I have ever been and the type of trip that makes me extremely grateful to be able to explore and document.

Do you consider yourself a travel documentary photographer or a surf photographer? The term surf photographer is a funny one to me as it implies a very one dimensional approach to shooting, although that is how I would describe my job and style to someone who asks; I'm a surf photographer. I really enjoying photographing all types of subjects though and being on the road as often as I am, I would consider my approach to photography more photojournalistic than anything else. How is the industry now in relation to when you started? Has it got tougher with the Social Media boom? The fact that you can buy a very nice camera, shoot photos after watching some tutorials online, then upload them to Instagram for immediate feedback is really unique compared to when I first started shooting. I’m definitely a little conflicted because I started shooting before the digital transition and I definitely started shooting a lot earlier than Instagram. What do you look for that makes your work unique? Shooting pulled back, incorporating foreground and background with dynamic lightning conditions is the style I feel has defined most of my more well know shots. In addition to that, I pride myself on being comfortable in larger surf which I think stems from growing up in the ocean as a bodyboarder. I don’t think people necessarily recognize me for my ability to shoot in bigger waves like they do some people but I make it a point to continually try to push my own comfort zone, it’s both rewarding and terrifying at the same time and that’s an amazing combination.

Jeff Hubbard

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

Portraits are something I tend to overthink and struggle with more than other aspects of my photography. It helps to have a good subject who's engaged and carefree. Jeremiah Klein was shooting some portraits of Seabass at the Oakley house and when he was finished, i asked Bass if we could shoot a few with some paintball guns that were at the house, e.g. Pulp Fiction.

Billy Kemper and Son

What are your favorite subjects to work with? There’s a lot of guys that I enjoy shooting with but more than anything, my favorite subjects are good light and unique lineups. Reef breaks and wedges are most photographers favorite setups and I’m no different. Some wise guidance for your following? One of the most important things I can say to photographers who are just starting out, kids or adults who’d like to take their photography to another level, is, shoot photos for the right reasons and shoot often. My rate of ‘success’ has been extremely drawn out and slow by most accounts but when I first started shooting, I didn’t have even the faintest thought or even desire to become a professional photographer. That came after a few years of really loving the entire process and enjoying the opportunities that were presented through this art-form; lots of travel to incredible waves in far off places.

Billy Kemper Photo: Keale Lemos

John John Florence Photo: Tony Heff

Koa Smith Photo: Pete Frieden

Tyler Newton Photo: Keale Lemos

Kalani Chapman Photo: Keoki

The Aloha Spirit. available by the pint.

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Mike Ito

2018

BEACH & BOARD BUYER’S GUIDE

Besides surfing, there’s no other sport where its participants are as tuned into their equipment. We, as surfers, know not just the dimensions of our surfboard’s length, width and thickness, but also the ingredients that go into making it. What also makes our beloved sport so unique is that while other sports - from mainstream to action - essentially have the same equipment, surfing does not. John John Florence’s go to board may have similar dimensions to other competitors, but it’s certainly not the same as Mick Fanning’s or Kelly Slater’s. And the boards of these three icons are certainly different from what you ride at your favorite North Shore spot. In the following pages, we pay homage to this uniqueness, showing you the news and greatest surfboards available today, also exhibiting the endless possibilities for your next winter board. Good luck finding your next winter board!

Keoki

Josh Moniz / Hawaiian Island Creations / Photo: Heff

Ola Eleogram / H-Tech Maui / Photo: Keoki

Jackson Bunch / Minami Surfboards / Photo: Manu Akana

Hawaiian Island Creations Hyper

Hi-Tech Surboards Ole single fin noserider

Shaper: Kerry Tokoro

9'4" x 23 3/8" x 3 1/4"

5’10” X 18.75” X 2.38” Volume: 26.8 Liters

1" balsa T-band with 1/8" redwood stringers

The Hyper Model is the perfect go-to

Perfect board for the summer southshore waves,

board for high-performance surfing

easy paddler.

in shoulder-high and larger waves. A generous amount of continuous bottom

$1,650

curve makes this model loose, forgiving and responsive. The bottom features a

Hi-Tech Surf Sports

shallow single concave with a moderate

425 Koloa Street

double concave, and an outline that is

Kahului, HI 96732

lean and trim. Designed for vertical surfing

808-877-7750

in and around the pocket, this board flows

surfmaui.com

easily from rail to rail, generating speed with every turn. Available in squash, round, swallow and round-pin tail designs. Available at HIC’s Ala Moana, Kailua, Haleiwa, Maui Mall, Lahaina & Hilo stores.

www.hicsurf.com

Minami Surfboards F-2 Model

Minami Surfboards F-2 PLUS Model

Pictured: 6’2 x 18 3/8 x 2 5/16 Round Tail

Pictured: 6’6 x 18 3/8 x 2 5/16

The F-2 model is a step up board for

The F-2 PLUS is the big brother of the F-2,

Hawaiian size 4-5 ft. waves. The outline,

designed for waves in the local size 5-6 ft.range.

as compared with a normal all arounder,

The outline is more streamlined to handle

is streamlined a bit to handle more size

bigger days where the wave face is larger, and

and speed. It has just the right amount of

where you’re going a lot faster. This model

nose/tail rocker to give you a nice blend of

is designed with a slight concave bottom to

looseness and carve. The bottom is fast,

handle the added speed, and the rocker is

built with single to double concaves. The

ideally balanced at both ends to make steep,

F-2 is an excellent model you can count on

late take-offs. When the waves are up the F-2

for those juicy overhead days.

Plus will deliver!

minamisurfboards.com

Mike Ito

Keoki

Billy Kemper / T&C Surf / Photo: Heff

Sammy Rust / Hney Girl / Photo: Heff

Maui Tropix Surf Company Stinger

RJ Surfboards Vagabond

5’ 10” x 21” x 2.5”

A very versatile hybrid with a full outline and generous foam distribution. Great for

A modern take on a classic Ben Aipa

gutless waves but can definitely handle

Stinger

size as well as surf vertically. Ride in knee high to overhead surf.

Blending old school knowledge, craftsmanship and experience with

www.rjsurf.com

modern materials and techniques, Maui Tropix Surf Co. produces Maui’s most unique and exotic surfboards. From super exotics to progressive thrashers, Maui Tropix Surf Co. stocks an array of Maui Tropix and Maui Built surfboards in a wide range of sizes, styles, shapes, and constructions. Maui Tropix Surf Co. is Maui’s original homegrown surf company and the island’s most unique board builder.

www.mauitropixsurfco.com

STORM BLADE 6ft6 SWALLOW TAIL

T&C Surfboards Flux

6’6” x 22.63” x 3.14” | 55ltrs.

Shaper: Glenn Pang

The Storm Blade Swallow Tail is a great introductory learn-to-shred foam board

The Flux, previously known as the CMG-1

with generous volume for great floatation,

model, is a super versatile high-performance

a rounded template for easier rail to rail for

all around shortboard. Many of our team

smaller days, and constructed with EBS™

riders have surfed it from small, soft waves

foam deck and HDPE bottom for excellent

to firing 5’-6’ (Hawaiian scale) waves. The

rigidity. Superior EPS core with 3 marine ply

rocker is pretty relaxed and the outline is

stringers. Removable slot box fin set.

clean and straightforward. The bottom

MSRP: $219.99

contour is a single to a double with a slight vee going off the tail. It is highly

(714) 389-1822

recommended to get this board with the

info@stormbladeboards.com

thumb tail.

facebook: @stormbladeboards instagram: @stormbladeboards www.stormbladeboards.com

www.tcsurf.com

Keoki

Tyler Newton / Smith / Photo: Keoki

Torrey Meister / Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neill / Photo: Pete Frieden

BZ 6 ft BZ Soft Top Shredder

662 Ride Shop Hi Five Boards

The BZ 6ft soft top is a fun shape model

Inspired By Passion

with an egg shape nose and squash

Tahiti has some of the heaviest waves

shape tail that is made with an EPS Core,

in the world and these boards have

green cell deck, the bottom of the board

been pushed to the limits by the likes

is a HDPE slick with a wooden stringer

of Angelo Faraire, Tibo Casabianca,

for added strength and flexibility. The

Maronui Richmond and Hitoti Henry.

shredder also has channels built in

Five Boards has now allowed it's roots

on the bottom of the board to give

to spread throughout the Polynesian

responsiveness when making turns on the

Triangle to the Hawaiian Islands and

wave. The fin set up is a fin box system

welcomes Alan "4Lan" Lamphere to the

and this board comes with 3 rubber tip

team. Pictured is his signature tribute

fins, fin key and a BZ leash. The width

board to City & County Lifeguards. This

of the board is 20.88â&#x20AC;? x 72â&#x20AC;? x 3.13 and

shape is great for Prone, JackStance

weighs 9.9 lbs.

and StandUp.

$219.99

@Fiveboards www.fivebodyboards.com

BLDG Active ACTIVE Skin Repair: Healing Spray & Hydrogel

Bare Republic

Churchill Makapuu

Reef-Safe and easy to apply/reapply, our zinc oxide SPF 50 Mineral Sunscreen Stick protects physically,

Made since 1936, the patented and trademarked

ACTIVE Skin Repair kills 99.9% of all bacteria and

not chemically, and provides broad spectrum UVA/

Churchill Makapuu floating fins have become

helps speed the natural healing process all while

UVB coverage with 80 minutes of water resistance.

standard equipment for bodyboarders, swimmers

being non-toxic, antibiotic free and sting free. It

We have you covered! #GOBAREOUTSIDE

and watersport lovers. The Churchill Makapuu swim

works on: reef cuts, wounds, sunburns, rashes, sea lice, insect bites and more.

fin is also the original swim fin. The Makapuu fin

gobareoutside.com

shape was created to resemble a dolphin tail which will give you the most thrust and performance out of

Hello@bldgactive.com

any fin on the market. The Makapuu fin is made of

www.instagram.com/bldgactive

100% natural gum rubber and these fins float! $49.99

Morey Mach 7 The Morey Mach 7 is the most iconic and recognizable bodyboard in the world. The Mach 7’s classic shape, iconic black rails and orange bottom have been a staple for intermediate to advanced bodyboarders. With its classic shape, polyethylene core, crescent tail shape, the Mach 7 delivers strength and versatility for a variety of riding styles and wave conditions. The Morey Mach 7 is THE board that revolutionized the sport. $129.99 moreybodyboards.com

Freesurf Logo Tee Order online at Freesurfmagazine.com. Only $20 in any colors and worldwide shipping. Click on “Freesurf Merch” at freesurfmagazine.com to see all our new products. $20 freesurfmagazine.com

Oneill Hyperfreak 1.5mm L/S Wetsuit Top Featuring our exclusive Technobutter 3 neoprene, The Hyperfreak top is lighter and more buttery than ever. 20% lighter with 30% less water absorption. The HyperFreak Series defines functional warm water gear.

Oneill Hyperfreak Hydro Boardshort A high performance, stylish boardshort for every surfer looking to break through the noise. Featuring exclusive Hyperfreak stretch fabrication, welded construction and laser cut bottom hems allowing for complete freedom and unrestricted performance. $89.50

$99.95

Pakaloha Puamana Ruched Bottom Ocean Current Cascade 94%Polyester 6% spandex PINK Tank top The Animal Black Wholesale inquiries contact juliewaters808@gmail.com

Our #1 best seller, and a Pakaloha original creation. Designed with surfing in mind, this style truly shapes every woman’s backside to look its best, while staying put in some of the roughest conditions! Purchase this style online or in any of our 4 retail locations on Maui and Oahu! $48.00

pakalohamaui.com

GoPro Hero HERO is the most userfriendly GoPro out there. It delivers 10MP photos and 1440 and 1080p video for easy offloading, editing and sharing. HERO also features voice control, WiFi + Bluetooth connectivity and is waterproof without the need for a housing. At $199 USD, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the best GoPro to capture every adventure, every day from creative, new perspectives.

Honey Girl Water Wear WANA Print Onyx

Honey Girl Water Wear WANA Print Lagoon

reverses to Solid Black. "Shy" Reversible Top, pull-over, light padding (sewn in) won't scrunch up. $48 "Tabbi" Reversible Bottom, stays put, elastic at hips. $42

"Colleen" Long Sleeve One Piece, SPF 50+, KEY POCKETS on sleeves, optional thumbholes. No zippers, ties at neck. Can be worn backwards for a v-neck. $94

www.honeygirlwaterwear.com www.honeygirlwaterwear.com

Icon ICON Sport Collection

Jamba Juice

Ninety Degrees ltd. Tortuga Pro

this h oliday season

Icon Eyewear launched their ICON Collection blending progressive eyewear technology with fresh, modern designs. These polarized sunglasses are designed on premium lenses, delivering supreme clarity and vibrant mirror-coated colors. The frames are hypoallergenic, super lightweight and durable.

At all J amba Hawaii Locations

$25 BinUgY ift cards,

GET A $5 bonus c

ard*

HOLI BONU DAY S CAR

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| Valid 1/1 - 2/28/19

www.iconsportcollection.com *Bonus Cards are redeemable starting January 1st, 2019 and through February 28th, 2019. Other restrictions apply, see card for details.

Kona Brewing Co. Growler This is sure to be your favorite new Growler, and the best way to keep your beer icy cold and carbonated

The Tortuga Pro is a free standing surfboard rack which provides an elegant and secure floating docking station for your shortboard. Your surfboard's home away from home.

all day long.The Fresh Carry System provides a leakproof seal with improved temperature control and

Price: $139

easy portability. We embellished the growler with our

www.90degs.com

logo and the Island Chain for some extra aloha.

Instagram: 90degrees_ltd

wide. $65.00 shop.konabrewingco.com

Quiksilver HIGHLINE AIRLIFT VEST

Saltwater Syndicate

REEF Leather Fanning Low

A new wave of Sun Protection

A new generation of big wave riding demands new

The recently updated Fanning Low has an all

Protect the planet, protect your skin. No need for the

innovations in water safety. To meet the needs of

new member of the Fanning family. We've added

use of harmful sunscreens that have been damaging

athletes around the world, Quiksilver developed the

waterproof full grain leather for extra style alongside

our ecosystem for decades.

Quiksilver Highline Airlift inflatable vest. Created

the support and comfort that the Fanning Low

Our long sleeve UPF performance shirts keep you

in collaboration with Aqua Lung, a world leader in

already have.

cool and block up too 99% of the suns harmful rays.

SCUBA equipment, this game changing product

$60

$34.95

BIG WAVE SURFING SAFETY JACKET

is designed to improve personal safety in tough conditions.

saltwatersyndicate.com www.reef.com

@saltwatersyndicate on Instagram

quiksilver.com

Amplify Awesome The Barra featuring ChromaPop™ #ExperienceChromaPop

SHEBOP BEACH SWIMWEAR 3-Piece Mermaid Swim Set

SHEBOP BEACH SWIMWEAR Mermaid Scale Rash Guard

Smith Barra

This beautiful mermaid set comes with a two-piece

This bright and shimmery rash guard is so beautiful

The Barra is a large coverage frame designed for

halter bikini and removable matching mermaid skirt!

you won’t have to fight her into it! It has UPF 50+

performance on the water. The frame has megol

It is proudly MADE IN THE USA and constructed from

Sun Protection and is Proudly MADE IN THE USA!

nosepads and temples, along with side shield

the highest quality materials and workmanship! Your

Add this to a mermaid swim set for all-day, sun safe

coverage for additional protection and backside

little one will not want to take this outfit off!

mermaid fun!

glare reduction on the water.

This and similar styles sold in shops throughout the

$169.00

islands! Find them on SBB’s Store Locator:

www.smithoptics.com

www.shebopbeach.com/store-locator/

@smithoptics

Sun Bum Mineral SPF 50 Sunscreen Lotion

Surf N Sea SurfNSea X Hurley Collaboration

TropicSport Reef Friendly Sunscreen

Some of us like to go as au naturel as possible, so

Zipper Hoodie with exclusive Surfer X-ing text design.

Jamie O’Brien’s Favorites Reef-Friendly sunscreen

we’re really proud to introduce our new zinc-based

Men’s size S,M, L, XL. Also available in T-shirt.

passes both the U.S. FDA 80-minute and Australia

Mineral collection for your lounging and earth loving

$55

4-hour water resistance tests. Body Wash to remove

pleasure. Broad Spectrum, lightweight and nongreasy, our SPF 50 Mineral Moisturizing Sunscreen

sunscreen, sweat and sand Cooling Gel with Aloe

surfnsea.com

Lotion is made of safe minerals to protect skin from

and Tea Tree Oil which provide soothing relief to sunburned skin

UVA/UVB rays.

tropicsport.com sunbum.com

Vans Ultra-Range 3d

Volcom Drew Toonz HI Mod

Waimea Valley Recycled glass wave

Keep the Country Stoned in the new Drew Toonz

This beautifully crafted wave made from recycled

Built off Vans’ original UltraRange silhouette, the

North Shore map boardshorts! A portion of

glass is a representation of the magnificent winter

UltraRange 3D showcases an updated outsole

proceeds from Volcom Hawaii Only products will go

waves of O‘ahu’s North Shore. Available in different

technology to provide everyday versatility to get you

directly to the Boys & Girls Club of Hawaii!

shapes and sizes.

on your feet and out there on your journey.

$60

$150 & Up

vans.com

volcom.com

waimeavalley.net or (808) 638-5871

P A U

H A N A

doing my creative thing all day, but someone said to me one day, ‘you are doing your thing all day: this whole store is your palette.’” One of the biggest obstacles to opening the store was actually deciding the name. Larsen scoured Hawaiian dictionaries, knowing that when she came upon the right phrase she would instantly know it was the one. Larsen admits she’s not the typical Hawai`i resident: she’ll snorkel, but has never surfed. You’ll never find her fishing or sailing because she gets seasick very easily. The pastime that is her Hawaiian heaven is quite

Layne Larsen By Kyveli Diener Photos Keoki Walking into the Kai Ku Hale shop and art gallery in Haleiwa feels much like opening a longhidden treasure chest. Every inch of the store is teeming with unique and beautiful objects ranging from candles to custom furniture knobs to clothing to books and artwork. Sunshine beams through the windows, illuminating the vibrant paintings and making the assorted knickknacks sparkle. You could hunt around the store for hours and still find new surprises tucked away in the homey atmosphere, where several local women, all artists themselves, are available to answer questions or just talk story. This special environment, and the women and artists involved in it, were all brought together by California transplant turned aloha queen Layne Larsen, who opened Kai Ku Hale over ten years ago. Larsen, a true Valley Girl who grew up on Malibu beaches, first visited Hawai`i at the age of 11 and immediately felt drawn to live here. She was deaf to the nay-sayers and moved directly to the North Shore of Oahu as young woman, and still lives near Shark’s Cove 25 years later.

roster of over 60 local artists spans the whole Hawaiian island chain and runs the full spectrum of media and objects, including essential oils from the Big Island company Alohatherapy. The family running that business lost their home to the eruption of the Kilauea volcano earlier this year, though the farm where the oils are made was spared. Every item in the shop is connected to the personal story of the artist behind it, and Larsen knows them all. The energy of the creators fills the room as if they were all standing there with you, and Larsen described a strange phenomena she’s noticed surround artists giving

A steward to plants and animals with an overgrown jungle garden and a rescue herd of three dogs and six cats, Larsen raised two Kahuku High School graduates and also took care of her mother on Oahu for over 20 years until her recent passing. In the midst of all this caring for others in her life, Larsen still managed to open a shop in Haleiwa, even if the road to it was a bumpy one. Larsen’s original hope was to use her background in interior design to open a custom interior design house for new homeowners, but when the Recession hit just as she opened her doors in May 2008, she switched gears, choosing instead to open a store that helps support local artists trying to make a living. “This store is a compilation of all the things I’ve done in my life: I used to have a ceramics business, I do make a lot of jewelry and sell it at the crafts fairs and arts festivals. So I’ve been on the other side of the coin like most of these artists just trying to make a living doing what they love,” Larsen said. “I’m actually a frustrated artist because I’d rather be at home

simply strolling the beaches of the North Shore collecting shells, drift wood, sea glass, and plastic debris revealed by the low tide. And it’s in that practice that she found the name. "Kai means ocean, hale means house, and when you put it together like kai ku hale — and I asked a Hawaiian person to make sure I got it in the right order — it means ‘house on the gentle ocean at low tide,’ and that’s when you find your shells and your sea glass and your driftwood,” Larsen explained. “So I saw it and said, ‘That’s it!' and I could sign my lease. Because that’s what I love: walking the beach at sunset collecting my little beachy stuff.” The ever-rotating, star-studded

their personal mana to pieces in the store. “Many of these artists do spend a lot of time coming in and talking or coming in and polishing things, giving it a little love. And it’s the funniest thing: they come and do it, and a half hour later the piece sells,” Larsen said, her never-ending smile beaming. Artists featured include visual artists from Kauai ( like Kelly Keane), Big Island (like Victoria McCormick) and North Shore Oahu (like Jamie Swim), among countless others. There are pieces from famous Hawaiian artists including Vince Cavataio, Bill Braden, Margo Goodwill, and Beverly Fettig. One of Larsen’s favorite piece in the

W W W. R A I N B O W S A N D A L S . C O M

GERRY LOPEZ PIPELINE MASTER & YOGI GURU

REPAIR • REUSE • RECYCLE Our commitment doesn’t end when you leave the store. Since 1974, we have repaired and reused over 400,000 sandals that are donated to needy feet around the world. Our goal is to help those in need and stop broken sandals from going to a landfill and polluting our oceans.

PAT EN T ED T RUN C AT ED

O U T ER S T R A P E T C H ED

D O M E RU B BER T O P S O L E

WIT H H AWA II A N IS L A N D S

HOLOHOLO

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PAU HANA

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store is a giant print of a dreamy photograph of palm trees by the late Jon Mozo, and she’s the only store in Haleiwa that can sell magnets of the famous Haleiwa sign created by Carole Beller, who happens to be a good friend of Larsen’s and will sell her items featuring the famous wave and surfer image. One consistent theme in the store that gives away Larsen’s passion for and background in environmental science is artwork created with recycled materials, especially ocean debris and beach plastics. All the frames on the John Holm paintings covering the walls are made from recycled plastic, and most of the furniture in the store is made from recycled teak from abandoned fishing boats in Bali. Hanging near the Holm pieces was a stunning life-size mermaid by Dale Cronn that was constructed out of reclaimed copper telephone wire and decorated with glass pieces that were discards brought home from the UH glassblowing class Cronn’s husband teaches. Another local artist specializing recycled materials is April Ahui, a friend of Larsen’s for 20 years and wife of legendary waterman Terry Ahui , who is a perennial fixture in the store and who creates lamps and art out of driftwood, ropes, and railroad ties she finds on the beach. “My biggest passion in here is our recycled art. [I estimate] about 40% of the things in here are made of recycled materials, and I would like for it to be even more,” Larsen said before pointing to another meaningful piece of reclaimed art: a giant wooden State of Hawai`i flag stained blue and red where it should be, which was built from wood that used to be Larsen’s deck. The artist who took down the deck created four copies of the flag, and the first one was sold to State Representative Sean Quinlan at a Waimea art auction. As the artists continue to stream through Kai Ku Hale with their treasures, Larsen also seeks out wares of her own design on buying trips to Bali every couple of years. Down there she is able to manufacture unique knobs and fineals (the screw on top of lampshades) in the shape of mermaids and seahorses to sell in the shop. The two most common things you’ll see in the store are peace signs and the word “aloha,” because to Larsen peace and love are what life is really about. “If ever down the road I have to look back, I’ll be able to say, ‘you know what: we had a really good thing going here,’” Larsen said, content and calm, surrounded by the art and energy of her community.

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SURF EXPO / ORLANDO Surf Expo took place in Orlando, Florida from September 6-8th and is the largest and longest running board sports and beach/resort lifestyle trade show in the world. The show features more than 2,500 booths of apparel and hardgoods and a full line-up of special events, including fashion shows, annual awards ceremonies, and demos. Freesurf Magazine ( Mike Latronic, Tane KuAli'iokalani Haili Kekuhaupi'o VII, and Luiz Jardini ) was in force at the expo connecting with new friends and reconnecting with older ones. We were the one and only surf magazine featured at the surf expo and the staff were non-stop throughout the days of the event.

Tropic Sport - COO - Nancy Loewe - Holly Cooksey - Master of Sales Operations

Yard House Orlando - General Manager Phillip Le

Shebop Beach - Kathy Link, president

Cobian - Marketing Director - Chris Peck

Senor Frog - General Manager - Nicolas Caneva

Morey, Bz and Churchill - Marketing Director - Mike Schaefer - President - Todd Richards

We want to give a shout out to our supporters as well as advertisers that have given us a warm welcome at the surf expo. Thank you to Adrienne Belk and staff for hosting such quintessential show for our beloved sport and were honored as well proud to be apart of it. A huge mahalo goes out to Phillipe Le of Yard House for extending the Aloha spirit by providing food and drinks every night at the expo and to Nico Naveda of Senor Frogs for the great vibes on the final night of the expo.

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Oliver & Zoie Zietz By Kyveli Diener Photos Zeitz Family

It’s hard to decide what may have given a pair of siblings named Oliver and Zoie a better edge on becoming radical surfers: growing up on the North Shore of Kauai, or having CT standout and surfing’s elite funnyman Sebastian Zietz as an uncle. Clearly it was a combination of both because they’re already racking up sponsors and fans, traveling for surf, and sharing Uncle Seabass’s unstoppable stoke and humor — and they haven’t even hit their teens yet. Oliver, 12, first learned to surf at three years old when their dad, Maxwell Zietz, propped him up on the front of his board in Waikiki. One of Oliver’s first memories is riding a wave all the way to the rock pile at Queen’s while people cheered for him. Zoie, nine, and who learned to surf from their dad at the same age but at the Hanalei Pier — has fond early memories of surfing with Maizie, the family dog, around the age of five. In the Zietz Ohana, if you’re not having fun, you’re not doing it right. Today, both kids are showing a level of skill well beyond their years, with dramatic hacks and searing carves that show how closely they’ve been watching (and surfing with) their all-time favorite surfer, Seabass, as well as their back-up, non-uncle heroes in the professional surf world. Both kids ride natural foot, but while Oliver loves nothing more than “a big vertical backside hack!” when he’s out, little sister Zoie prefers to hunt for tubes as much as possible. Both kids were first sponsored by Hanalei Surf Co., (Oliver at eight, Zoie at seven), and now by Minami Surfboards, as well as a handful of other major sponsors for big bro Oliver including Dakine, Vissla, and D’Blanc Eyewear.

THE ZEITZ DEETS EQUIPMENT Oliver - I’m riding a Minami 4’8” x 15 1/2” x 2” with Futures Jordy thruster fins and I think it’s my best one yet. It’s real fast and responsive.

Zoie - Minami - 4’7” x 15 3/4” x 1 7/8” - futures thruster. This current board is my favorite because it turns easily and it’s sick!

FAVORITE NON-SEABASS SURFER Oliver - Mick Fanning, ‘cause he does the best wraps and carves in the world!

Zoie - Carissa Moore because she has a good style and does great carves.

GOALS AS A SURFER Oliver - Mostly have lots of fun Zoie - Win a World Title and and maybe someday get on be a role model for girls. the World Tour.

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snap; he puts it right in the sweet spot on the most vertical part of the wave,” Bass said.

Having a sibling basically guarantees a built-in lifelong best friend, especially in a family as tight as the Zietz clan. And when you’re both elite youth surfers you practically have a built-in surf school. The brother-sister duo both push each other to progress their skills and are stoked to see the other improve, even if the fire burning to drive that advancement stems from small kine sibling rivalry.

“Zoie is just an animal! She seems more fearless than most little girls,” the proud uncle continued. “She’s more determined, a little more focused than Oliver, and really driven. It’ll be interesting to watch them rub off on each other as they grow up!”

“Sometimes I get angry at him and start ripping,” Zoie admitted, then added, “I feel comfortable when he surfs with me because he is the best brother.” Oliver enjoys playing the role of trailblazer and guru to his little sis. “Zoie has always been surfing with me and it makes me want to improve and then teach her so she improves. It's awesome to watch my little sister rip. It makes me proud, stoked, and excited for her.”

And the feelings of admiration are fully mutual as the kids couldn’t say enough good stuff about their surf star uncle. “He is happy and makes others happy. He has taught me to always be positive and keep surfing because it’s fun,” Zoie said about Uncle Seabass. “He is one of the best barrel riders in the world. He pushes me to be a better surfer,” Oliver said of Bass. “When I watch him he teaches me a lot about style, power and to always stay positive and surf stoked. Seabass is like a grom when he is around kids and it’s really fun. He’s gonna be the best dad ever one day.”

The kids are coached entirely by dad Max, which is a lucky break since he’s the one who taught Seabass to surf as a kid and, as The Bass said, “That worked out for me!” Their uncle has shown unwavering support for the two as they develop their skills, featuring them on his social media platforms and helping to spread the word about these two rising stars.

(Thanks to a hilarious Instagram announcement from Sebastian in late August, we all now know that day when he’ll be ‘the best dad ever’ is getting closer and closer — congratulations to parents-to-be Sebastian and Krisy Zietz!)

“I’m most proud of the amount of surf stoke they have. It reminds me of myself and my brother Max, their dad. They’re both naturally talented surfers,” Sebastian Zietz said of his niece and nephew before elaborating on their individual skills and personalities.

The Zietz groms love surfing with their uncle anywhere, but a highlight of 2018 for these two was a surf trip to the BSR Cable Park for three days in mid-July, where they got the chance to shred waves with Bass, Noah Beschen, and Carissa Moore, deep in the heart of Texas. Oliver loved the yummy BBQ, the variety of waves possible in the American Wave Machines pool, and watching all the pros from home launching airs. For Zoie, highlights of the pool included being invited to train with Carissa Moore and her dad back on O`ahu after their meeting at the wave pool, and being able to surf without any worry of sharks.

“Oliver is one of the nicest kids you’ll ever meet. He can start a conversation with anyone at the drop of a hat and a lot of older local guys around here are super stoked on him and his positive attitude. You’ll want to keep an eye on Oliver because he seems to have a lot more whip than most kids, he rotates his shoulders and gets his board in tight, critical positions….he has a super critical backhand 84

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For Seabass, the highlights of the Waco trip were the same as every other surf sesh with the kids: watching their barely controllable froth for every wave, and seeing their abilities skyrocket by leaps and bounds with each ride, this time in front of esteemed new company. “Oliver paddled out before Cheyne (Magnusson, co-creator of the wave pool) had even arrived, waiting in a totally flat pool for a wave that wasn’t even coming for another 15 minutes. He was frothing the whole time,” Sebastian recalled. “Zoie actually busted out an insane grab rail carve when we were in Waco…watching her improve tenfold over three days in Texas was wild and impressive - a testament to her natural ability. Just watching her light it up in front of Carissa was awesome.” As far as the Zietz kids have already come in their young surf careers, they’re also well-rounded youngsters with plenty more on the horizon. They’re both voraciously working on their aerial abilities and both are good students with backup careers already in place (Zoie, a 4th grader at Hanalei Elementary, loves math and wants to be a teacher, while 7th grader Oliver, who gets homeschooled, enjoys playing piano, learning about coding and history, and would like to be a software engineer like his dad so he can work from anywhere and still surf). The only question left to answer is where in the world you’ll be seeing sick new clips of Zoie and Oliver performing: for Zoie, who has only surfed in Hawai`i and Texas, the dream is to make it to Bali for some perfect waves and cultural education. And for Oliver — who’s already conquered Hawai`i, Gold Coast Australia, Southern California, and Texas — look for him in the Mentawais someday. But first, Kelly Slater Wave Co.

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Chris Lundy By; Karen Gallagher Photos Jim Russi

“I can still surf!” Chris Lundy’s face was a glow as he celebrated his successful return to surfing the North Shore. There was a little sandbar at Pupukea, waves were about head-high, and I was happy to see my old friend again. The last time I seen him was when he disappeared into the body of an Army MediVac helicopter flying to Queen’s Medical Center after suffering a complete anterior dislocation of his left knee during the 1983 Pipeline Masters. After two years of surgery, dedicated rehabilitation, and an unmatched determination to surf again, all led to the exuberance of what he demonstrated after riding that tiny wave at the sandbar. Chris was 18 when he arrived on the North Shore in the spring of 1975. His surfing experience up to that point was in the Gulf of Florida and 6 months in Santa Cruz, highlighted by a session at solid 8-10 foot Fullers where he and life-long friend Bruce Hansel earned the respect of some of the most hardcore locals to be found anywhere. Excited to be on the famed North Shore,

and amping to get barreled, Chris on the morning after his arrival he paddled straight out to solid Backdoor and Pipe. In his own words he describes his first wave in an interview, “It was one of the three best tube rides I’ve ever had in my life. I got blown out of that wave and into a new frame of mind.” Chris’ life for the next 8 years was all about surfing. He quietly went about charging the heaviest waves on the North Shore, earning respect not only for his courage and skill in charging giant Waimea Bay, Sunset and barreling Pipe and Backdoor, but for his humble attitude and kind nature. He was accepted instantly into the original Pipeline Underground, a loose band of transplants who surfed Pipe about as well 88

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Luke Tema Age 12 Photo: Pete Liotta @liottaphoto

as, and way more often, than the guys highlighted in the media. The Pipe House, once located on the western half of Ehukai Beach Park, was their unofficial headquarters. If the boys weren’t surfing or making boards in the garage, (Chris’ first job), you could find on them drinking Kiwi Dave’s coconuts and cheering, mostly heckling, to whoever was surfing out front at the time.

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Long after the sun had set and he was all alone, Chris quietly pursued his second passion, which was painting. Soon after accepting that he was not going to be surfing for a very long time, he applied and was welcomed into the prestigious Art Center College of Design in California.

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His unique style was embraced in the surfing world and beyond. From Triple Crown of Surfing posters to his surreal “Beautiful Reaper”, a 9’X17’ masterpiece, his artwork hung everywhere from prestigious art shows in Los Angeles and Portland to the humble Cafe Haleiwa. Brain cancer may have taken his body, but his soul lives on in his art and in his friendships.

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would be screw this I’m out of here, but as a foilnatic, I couldn’t get out there quick enough! The surface of the brown water was complemented with painful blue threads attached to floating bubbles. On that day no one was safe from the Man-o-war (Portuguese Man of War). The screams and erratic splashing actions of the surfers as they all eventually got stung provided a simple comedy through a shared collective pain.

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DON’T FORGET TO SURF By Kahi Pacarro It’s hard to get a grown ass man with a kid, a house, and an over full time job to get up early for a surf. Usually as we begin adulting, we fit our surfs in opportune moments that require spontaneity. Take for example this article. I finally had some time to write it but then I realized I could also go surf. My apologies to the editor for being late and I hope they understand……… OK, I’m back, the surf was better than expected and I’m now ready to focus. I got lucky and there was a surprise swell that was way better than expected. But it’s not always that way and keeping the surf bug alive in an aging surfer gets more difficult as responsibilities increase. Showing up to crappy blown out ankle slappers makes you question the next time you have a sliver of opportunity and whether you take it or not. Although the anxiety of surf FOMO has been lifted for the short term, it’s important to preserve the stoke we have for the long term. The environmental aspect of this article is meant for us as surfers to look at why we do what we do? The answer is complicated in a deep sense but on the surface it’s quite simple. Our lives surround our need to be on waves. Putting those opportunities at risk due to an ambivalence to the environment is a transgression on our lifestyles. Surfers

smoking ciggies down the path and then flicking their butts, surfers buying 100% toxic boards, surfers eating seafood indiscriminately all represent a multitude of potential transgressions. The more time we spend on the water, the more engage on the issues that put our pursuit of happiness at risk. Therefore I propose we spend more time in the ocean which will perpetuate the protection of it. My recent infatuation with foil boarding has allowed me to drastically increase that water time. But before then, it was kiteboarding and before that alaia surfing. Because not everyday is shortboard worthy and most days it’s 0-1 with 15 knot trades. Diversifying your ocean going activities will increase your awareness of the importance of protecting it. Increase your your surf spot quiver so that 20 knot winds doesn’t look like blown out mess but rather perfect kiting conditions. Try a foil and realize that 0-1 ft barely breaking is actually perfect! Rock your soft top, get a fish, take up free diving, or anything that means you’re in the water more. I was standing at the boat ramp at Kahana Bay as the sun rose looking out at 1 foot waves barely breaking in chocolate brown water with already 20 guys out and I was frothing like a grom. The average surfer

What’s most interesting in this boom of prone foil surfing is the camaraderie that organically sprouted and continues to flourish. I attribute it to this shared pain that transcends the man of war and stems from the challenge of learning a new sport that opens up a whole new world of what’s possible. We witnessed a similar effect with the resurrection of alaia surfing, but the learning curve was so steep that few actually made it to a level of competency. Although the learning curve of foiling is steep, it’s drastically easier than an alaia and once you pass the early hurdles, you’re opened to a playing field unplayable before. The vibe in a lineup filled with foilers at a wave that no one else would want to surf is easy to explain. The feelings come from the fact that we’ve all had to struggle through the learning pains, that those that have pushed through the struggles have now experienced the silent levitation flying feeling, but mostly that we’ve all sacrificed to get to the point where we are all now. The foilers that morning were not just loyal to the foil, they are loyal to the ocean. With that loyalty comes an unavoidable strengthened connection with the ocean that can help us remain focused with the biggest challenges facing our lifestyles. We need to spend more time in our oceans in order to realize what it’s going to take to protect them. Figure out what it’s going to take to stoke you out on what you currently consider a bad day of surfing and make the investment that will get you out in the water on those days. In will pay off in the long term not only for you but for all of us.

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I N D USTRY NOTES JJF’s Space premiers on Hurley Facebook...then disappears (sort of)

Shore lost a heartfelt landmark at Ehukai, the good news is that no one in the Florence family was injured and the brothers aren’t going to stop making memories on the North Shore anytime soon.

Hawaiian Telcom now offers Local On Demand

Flynn Novak Aids Shark Attack Victim in La`ie Robert Grilho Joins O’Neill O’ahu supergrom Robert Grilho III (a.k.a. RG3) announced in late August on his Instagram that he has switched stables, moving on from Rip Curl to join the O’Neill surfing team alongside such decorated athletes as Honolua Blomfield, Jordy Smith, and Torrey Meister. The Kapolei native, who became the youngest athlete to ever win the NSSA National Open Men’s Championship in June at just 15-years-and-3-months old, simply shared a photo of his board with a new sticker on the nose (alongside a huge smile and shaka on him) and the words: “To new beginnings! Very psyched to be a part of O’Neill USA, such a cool company with an awesome history.” Congrats Robert!

Florence Treehouse Falls Victim to Erosion

The storied Florence family treehouse next to the lifeguard tower at Ehukai Beach Park fell victim (literally) to the unprecedented level of erosion facing the sands of O’ahu’s North Shore this year. The tree that held the house, filled with countless memories from brothers John, Nathan, and Ivan, fell into the sea in September. Though the North

such as John Choi, Doug Cole of North Shore Community Land Trust, Adam Borello of Town and Country just to name a few.

In a terrifying scene at Pounders Beach in La`ie on September 15th, Flynn Novak was able to quickly respond to and assist a 23-year-old man who had been

Two-time World Champ John John Florence released his highly anticipated new film Space on September 12th, and it was premiered in perhaps the most elusive and exclusive way possible. The film became available on Hurley’s Facebook live at exactly 12 pm Hawaiian Standard Time for the exact six-minutes-and-one-second of the film’s length, and then the clip was deleted from Hurley’s Facebook forever. This was following over a week of hype that this would be the only opportunity to see the film, which surely drew many more eyeballs than making it available forever. But the joke’s on us: the film continued to live on Vimeo in perpetuity, available for streaming anytime and sharing through every surf outlet around. So breathe, you haven’t missed a thing and can still get your fix of John John that’s been eating away at your soul as your mind begs for new footage of his smooth aerials and mindbending barrel exits that leaves you with the same slack-jawed face John wears inside each tube he threads.

bitten by a shark. The shark caused chaos as the lineup of about 30 people completely scattered from the spot where student, Juliun Perkins, was bitten on his arm. Novak estimated the shark to be between 8-10 feet long. Novak was the only one who swam to Perkins, who had lost his board and was bleeding from a bite that encompassed his entire arm. Novak waited with the young victim as lifeguard Jesse King made his way out to help, at which point the pair tied the wound off with a tourniquet and got Perkins to shore. “I realized we were surrounded by a pool of his blood. My main concern was just to keep him calm, but inside I was like, 'Uh oh, there's a big predator here.’ That one or two minutes with him was probably the longest minute or two of our lives," Novak recalled. Perkins and both rescuers survived the ordeal, and we commend their bravery.

31st Annual Landshark Invitational The 31st annual Landshark Invitational was held on Sept 15th at Kewalo Basin in 1-3ft surf. The Landshark Invitational is a lawyer and close friends event that brings camaraderie within the legal surf community to eat, talk story, and the bonus is to get Kewalos all to themselves for a day. The event see’s entrants 94

Hawaiian Telcom announced in September that they would be offering local broadcasting on demand to their subscribers. The exclusive local footage, including surf contests, cooking shows, and locally-produced storytelling, is now available to all Hawaiian Telcom viewers on channel 808. Doesn’t get more local than that!

Welcome to the world Otis Kenichi Rock, son of Tyler and Tara Rock from Hilo, Hawaii. Otis weighed in at a whopping 9lbs 10 ounces with an all natural birth. Congratulations Tyler and Tara!

Aiden August Oliver gratulations to our new media manager and wife, Andrew and Jenn Oliver, for the addition to the family with the birth of baby boy Aiden August Oliver. Aiden was born on September 9th weighing in at. 7 lbs 14ozs.

Olivia Moody Congratulatioins to North Shore pro surfer Sean Moody and wife Mele Moody on the birth of their second child, baby girl Olivia Moody.

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The smell of thick salt air from winter waves is right around the corner. So is mother Pipeline and Koa Rothman. Photo: Tony Heff