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Koa Smith Photo: Gonzo

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Photo: Keoki

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6 Free Parking 14 Editor’s Note 17 Cover Story 18 Events 40 Giving 58 Aperture 52 Pau Hana 82 Juniors 86 Community 88 Surf Art 92 Environment 94 Industry Notes 98 Last Look

C O N T E N T S

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MOKU Rider: Daniel Pelt Photo: Eric Farrell

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THE LOCAL ISSUE

Art Director John Weaver Video Director Andrew Oliver Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic

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Editorial Director Keoki Saguibo

Assistant Editors Kyveli Diener, Mara Pyzel

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Publisher Mike Latronic

Koa Smith Photo: Gomzo

s tion At all Jamba Hawaii Loca

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Account Executives Tane KuAli'iokalani Haili Kekuhaupi'o VII, Luiz Jardini West Coast Distribution Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395 Hawai`i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395 Staff Photographers Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Keoki Saguibo, Andrew Storer Contributing Writers Kyveli Diener, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Alexandra Kahn, Lauren Rolland, Ben Marcus, Kahi Pacarro, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting Staff Photographer Aukai Ng

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E D I T O R ’ S

N O T E

By Keoki Saguibo

Like a sleeping giant waiting to awaken from hibernation, the winter season has seemingly grown accustomed to pushing the snooze button for sometime now. Previous years have taught us that anything could pop up unexpectedly on the weather charts -- in the winter 2015-16, for example, what seemed liked another mediocre season at the start turned into numerous swells above the 20+ ft mark, lighting up spots like Jaws and the outer reefs on Oahu. Regardless of what conditions arrive, the show must go on and the fans are wanting more.

Coming of age in Hawaii, we were very lucky to have grown up with the ocean influencing us in ways that mold us to be better to ourselves and our community. The Menehune Surfing Championships remains a prime example of how the ocean provides our young ones, through surfing, with the confidence needed to be strong individuals, while also encouraging each child to do their best and help with the event as part of community participation. Through community events held on the North Shore by foundations such as the Kokua Foundation, Plastic Free Hawaii, and Sustainable Coastlines, youth learn the importance of recycling and turning gathered trash into pieces of art. With the guidance of artist Ethan Estess, whose work incorporates reusing trash for art called Recology, the saying “one man’s trash is another man’s treasure” couldn’t be anymore true.

When the pursuit of surfing dreams turns from fun to a career, the increasingly demanding responsibilities don’t dampen the strength of the dream of titles. For Kiron Jabour, a sponsorless dark horse from the North Shore, the best result this season came in the form of a backyard win at the WSL HIC Pro. As for the select few who have the opportunity to help coach Hawaii’s surfing youth into qualification and world title hopes, Rainos Hayes has dedicated his life to his craft, and his coaching has guided seven generations of surfers into qualifying. Now, he is looking to see his team all the way through to a world title.

Keoki

It’s a great life that the sport of surfing can bring to us as individuals. Whether taught core values like “never give up,” through contests or “help when you can” when it comes to family, friends, and the community, surfing is the binding force that holds us together. So if Mother Nature decides to join the party and bring waves this season, we’ll be here happily waiting. For what’s left of 2018, we can throw a big shaka and look forward to 2019 with open arms.

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Cover Story

Koa Smith Photo: Manuel “Gonzo” Gonzalez Inspired from images seen in surf and bodyboard magazines of the 80’s, Manuel “Gonzo” Gonzalez made his move from Puerto Rico to Hawaii after being laid off as a newspaper journalist in 2014.

“I had the opportunity to pursue my lifelong dream of living and documenting waves in Hawaii,” says the enthusiastic photographer.

Pipeline is his favorite wave to shoot and he’s been dedicating over a decade honing his skills in the line up. We caught up with the upbeat water photographer to talk about his cover shot for our last issue of 2018.

“This shot of Koa Smith was taken during the Backdoor Shootout in 2018,” Gonzo recalled. “The waves were quite big and perfect with second reef white water sets washing through every once in a while.

It could’ve easily been the biggest and best day I have shot out there. Barrels were as wide as a house and I was in awe of what I was witnessing. As I was on the beach, breathing and getting ready, both [Takayuki] Wakita and City & County lifeguard Jason Bitzer motivated me to go out. Pipe is quite consistent, but to be out there with such specific size and conditions is rare and elusive. When I saw this photo, I felt it could be a contender for a cover shot.”

“Mahalo to Freesurf Magazine, Keoki Saguibo, Mike Latronic and the whole crew for believing in me and my work as a dedicated water photographer,” he went on. “Since I opened my first issue of Freesurf Magazine in February 2005, I told myself one day I would have the cover. Today, 13 years later, it finally happened. Dreams do come true if you put your mind to it, work hard, and stay away from anything negative. Trust in yourself and surround yourself with humans that pump you up, raise your motivation and everything will happen when the right time comes.”

© WSL / Heff

EVENTS

“All those guys were ripping the whole event, I really enjoyed all of their surfing,” said Jabour after the awards ceremony.

“O’Neill was surfing with a lot of power, he was getting high scores in every heat.”

The Tahitian’s second wave was under priority and saw him knife through the lip and use his power surfing style to earn a 5.07 to take the lead from Jabour. But within minutes, Jabour was on his second wave of the heat, a 6.00, and demonstrated total control in the most critical section of the wave.

2018 HIC PRO CONCLUDES IN EPIC SURF, NORTH SHORE'S KIRON JABOUR VICTORIOUS Photos WSL / Tony Heff An underdog Final emerged from the star-studded 112-man field at the HIC Pro today, with North Shore’s Kiron Jabour (HAW)taking the hard-earned win after starting from Round 1 and besting an international Final that included O’Neill Massin (PYF), who placed runner-up, Beyrick De Vries (ZAF), in third, and Slade Prestwich (ZAF) in fourth. The HIC Pro is a World Surf League

(WSL) Men’s Qualifying Series (QS) 3,000 event, Presented

by Vans, and the official local qualifier into the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, which takes place November 12 – December 20.

The 30-minute Final was a waiting game that tested athletes’ patience and positioning, but finally at the halfway point Massin struck first

with a strong opening maneuver and another powerful top turn that earned him a 6.33 (out of a possible 10). Behind him, Jabour dropped into the best wave of the heat and revved up the crowd with consistency and precision as he successfully completed three solid maneuvers to close out the ride.

He garnered an excellent 8.00 to take the lead and then the battle between he and Massin began.

Kiron Jabour won the 2018 HIC Pro with committed hits like this starting from Round 1. Photo © WSL / Chlala

With the clock ticking down, the two South African surfers opened their campaigns, a 5.00 for De Vries and 3.33 for Prestwich. De Vries has had past success at Sunset Beach when he earned a perfect 10-point ride during the 2013 Vans World Cup – a wave that was hailed as the best barrel ever surfed in competition at Sunset’s west peak. However, his and Prestwich’s determination was not enough to catch Jabour or Massin.

“The Final was really tight, everyone was pushing each other really deep the whole first half of the heat and we missed a couple sets because it’s been dropping all day and no one knew if there was going to be bigger sets coming in,” Jabour said. “But then there was a flurry of waves and it worked out I got the best wave of the heat. I still needed a score at the end because O’Neill was the only guy with two waves, so I was fortunate enough that mother nature sent me a set and I was in the spot for it and got the score I needed.”

Jabour has traveled the world this year chasing QS events, however a win has always evaded him until today, and his

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it’s really hard to go in Pipeline and get waves, so I have to learn more and more, but it’s good.

Sunset is a special place for me.

It’s a powerful wave with big water, so sometimes you’re a little bit scared but I’m stoked because it’s such a good wave and now I have good memories here.”

Massin's Tahitian power was perfectly suited for the energy of Sunset throughout all three days of the HIC Pro. © WSL / Chlala

sweet victory happened to take place in his own backyard.

“Winning out here at Sunset is so special to me, it’s right down the street from where I grew up.

It’s always been a dream of mine to win the HIC Pro and I can’t believe I won it, I’m so happy and stoked to go into the Triple Crown with a good confidence boost.”

Alongside Jabour’s win, Massin became the WSL Hawaii/ Tahiti Nui Regional QS Winner today, the first Tahitian to take the title since the two regions combined three years ago. The race heated up when the #2 regionally ranked surfer, Josh Moniz (HAW), was eliminated in Round 4 today, which left

“I’m super stoked,” said Massin.

“It was a really hard year for me, I only did like four contests, only the regional, so it was my goal to win it. So I’m stoked I got the trophy. Now 2019 will be a good year I think, so I’m going to try and do my best in the 6,000s and 10,000 events. Thank you Vans for the support.”

The WSL’s competitive focus now shifts down the coast to Haleiwa for the first event of the 2018 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing (VTCS), the Hawaiian Pro, which has a holding window of November 12 – 24.

Each event of the VTCS will run on the four best days of surf within the event's holding window, determined by Deputy Commissioner Travis Logie for the Men’s QS 10,000’s and Commissioner Kieren Perrow for the Men’s CT. LIVE streaming is available on WorldSurfLeague. com, Facebook.com/wsllive and the WSL and Facebook apps (Facebook login required for mobile viewing). Or tune into Spectrum SURF Channel, which will televise the action LIVE and in replay on digital channels 20 and 1020HD, across the state of Hawaii.

Massin spends almost four months every year on the North Shore to gain experience at the world’s premier surf breaks and compete for the season.

2018 HIC Pro Results

This local qualifying event sets the stage for the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, with the first event of the series, the Hawaiian Pro, taking place at Haleiwa Ali‘i Beach Park from November 12 – 24. Last year, Jabour Semifinaled in the HIC Pro and made Quarterfinals at the Hawaiian Pro, so he is off to a great start on improving his results in Hawaii after today's win.

“I’m just really happy to be in the Triple Crown and to start off like this is perfect I can’t imagine anything better. I really want to get the Triple Crown, that’s always been a dream of mine growing up here. Besides the World Title that’s the next best thing and I’m going to give it a good go this year.”

the window open for Massin and Maui’s Ian Gentil (HAW) to battle for the 2018 title. Massin now earns a seed into all 2019 QS 10,000 events up to the mid-year date and all other QS events for the full year. He also received a Travel Scholarship Presented by Vans to help with his campaign around the world.

“I spend a lot of time here and I try to learn every time,” Massin continued. “Sunset is a hard wave, Haleiwa is a hard wave, 20

The highest single wave score of the day and second highest of the event – a 9.00 – went to Patrick Gudauskas (USA) during Round Three Heat 16 for two big carves and a critical re-entry maneuver on the inside.

Gudauskas ended his campaign with a Semifinal result but still made a lasting impression at Sunset Beach and will continue his competitive stride at Haleiwa.

Final 1st – Kiron Jabour (HAW), 14.00 2nd – O’Neill Massin (PYF), 11.40 3rd – Beyrick De Vries (ZAF), 5.00 4th – Slade Prestwich (ZAF), 3.33

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EVENTS

2018 Vissla ISA World Junior Surfing Championships

By Mike Latronic All photos ISA/ Ben Reed and Sean Evans of the Huntington Beach, and the ceremony culminated with representatives from each country depositing sand from their home beach into a transparent container. The different colored sand layers mixed and signified how diverse people from the four corners of the globe can gather peacefully under the umbrella of a common passion: surfing.

Men's under 18, Keanu Kamiyama took the gold home for Team Japan.

The 2018 Vissla ISA World Junior Surfing Championships, presented by Vissla Huntington Beach, was held on the Southside of the iconic Huntington Pier in Southern California from October 26 through November 4. This perennial showdown gathered the world’s best young waveriding athletes with great surf conditions for the 8-day tournament. With 44 countries in attendance and 361 athletes, participation records reached an all-time high, as did the level of surfing. Now that we are living in the new “Olympic era” of surfing, there’s little wonder why kids and countries are lining up to get a crack at top honors in the ISA. Though this junior event is not a qualifier for the Olympics, you can bet it’s a serious temperature gauge for what’s to come and we will surely see some of the names in these events as future Olympians – if not in 2020 in Japan then perhaps in 2024 or beyond.

Notably, title sponsor Vissla bears a tagline, “We are Creators

and Innovators.” I’d say it was keenly appropriate to match this brand with this contest, because there’s no better venue to reflect this sentiment than with the best youth surfers in the world expressing themselves in fun size beach break surf in Huntington Beach.

different religions, skin tones and languages can all share peacefully with the inspiration that good waves, healthy pursuits and pure stoke can bring. Of course, there were world titles on the line and this made the event all the more exciting and unique!

The gathering of the tribes represented in living colors with the flags of the world at the opening ceremonies.

The mission of the International Surfing Association is to, “create a better world through surfing,” and this gathering of the tribes was indeed a stellar example of how humans from all walks of life, from different cultures with

Kicking off the championships was the unique Parade of Nations and the Sands of the World Ceremony. Each of the 44 registered countries paraded through the streets

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Official forecasters at Surfline provided a very positive outlook for the week-long event, and Mother Nature certainly delivered. A mix of northwest and southwest swells offered plentiful 2-4 foot peaks and walls over the first half of the week before intensifying on days 3 and 4 with 5-6 foot sets.

Watching the free surfing sessions beforehand, it was apparent that the “power performance” countries like Australia, Brazil, Hawaii, Japan, Peru, France and the USA were going to face a broad spectrum of high level competition from new and emerging juniors bearing flags from countries around the world rarely associated with surf-related world titles or even surfing as a sport in past decades.

The face of progressive surfing is changing at a rapid pace and youth talent from countries like Spain, Canada, Portugal, Germany, Panama, Poland and Mexico (to name just a few) brought a fresh surge of competitors and a few serious dark horse spoilers.

First, let’s talk home state: every single athlete representing our Hawai’i Nei was talented and motivated. Returning athletes like Sage Tutterow, Robert Grilho III, Keala Tomada Bannert, Gabriela Bryan and Summer

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One of the many solid performers from Hawai`i, Eli Hannemman displayed solid competitive savvy to help earn copper for the team.

Macedo were as dangerous as ever, and newcomers like Eli Hanneman, Leila Riccobuano, Cole Frye, Brodi Sale and Luana Silva quickly asserted that they meant business. Nakoa Mendiola was the only Hawaii athlete to unfortunately to lose out quite early with a string a small errors that kept him off rhythm. With his talent. I’m sure will see more of Nakoa in future battles!

With so much top talent from around the world, picking

Luana Silva

highlights throughout the week would seriously be a 20-page manuscript, so let’s summarize.

Whether you’ve heard of them or not, you will. Jhonny Guerrero from Peru and Noah Stocca from Australia are two young men who lost out in the main rounds but showed blazing form and resilience to go deep into the competition through the repechage rounds. Neither made the grand final, but both have talent and tenacity worthy of mention. I’m grouping them

Jason Shibata coaching Zoe McDougall

together because they really stood out as small wave wizards with brilliant hints of power and progression. Brazil’s Daniel Adsaka was another one to watch.

Noel Dela Torre (Chile), Luke Thompson (South Africa), Alan Cleland (Mexico), Jett Schilling (USA), Justin Becret and Marco Mignot (both of France) were other performers exhibiting outstanding style, power and flow and a solid repertoire of moves. Hawaii’s Cole Fry and

Brodi Sale were new names who wreaked havoc in the early rounds, as did teammates Robert Grihlo III, Sage Tutterow and Eli Hanneman.

On the lady’s side, the ISA issued a commendable landmark in gender equality by offering equal performance slots to the women for the first year. A record 153 ladies showed up to do battle, and amongst them were new names like the Resano sisters (Nicaragua), Zoe Steyn (South Africa), the Olin Sisters

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and then some, as Kade Matson, Levi Slawson, Cole Houshmand and 13-year old phenom Caitlin Simmers all made it to the grand finales in their respective divisions. But Team Japan was not to be out done. While the young American Caitlin Simmers was on an absolute tear to win the gold in the Girls Under 16 division, Shino Matsuda and Sara Wakita of team Japan were absolutely solid all week long and gained valuable second and third place points in that same final. In the Girls Under 18, Minami Nonaka would also collect on a 3rd place bronze.

Noah Stocca

only a few short years away Presti made the strategic decision to use her dual citizenship to surf for her European roots and get an almost sure slot in the Olympic bid (should she qualify through rankings). Presti blazed through the Women’s Under 18

On the boys side, Riaru Ito would add points for team Japan taking his stylish attack all the way to the final, ultimately placing 4th.

It was in the Boys under 18 that the real knockout punch came for team Japan: combining the girls results with a serious domination in the Boys Under 18 division, Team Japan surpassed

Kade Matson

(Canada), Lucia Machado and Nadia Erostarbe (Spain), Anat Lelior (Israel), Juliete Lacome and Neis Lartigue (France), Eva Woodland (Costa Rica), and Piper Harrison from Australia, to name a few.

One lady of particular note was Rachel Presti representing Team Germany. Though living and competing in Florida, with the Olympics ISA / Sean Evans

Rachel Presti made history by taking a gold medal home for Team Germany.

rounds and showcased a wellversed combination of power moves, flow, and flawless heat savvy to take her all the way to a gold medal, making history for Germany.

Team Japan and Team USA truly deserved the top honors awarded in the end. Coming into finals day, Team USA was poised to repeat a junior victory 26

Team USA in the overall team standings. Keanu Kamiya and Joh Azuchi claimed 1st and 2nd place in that division over a very solid Luke John Slijpen (South Africa) and a spry and creative Cole Houshman.

In the end, Team Japan took top honors and individually some kids went home with medals and other tears. Beyond the prizes

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Sands of the World represents global unity under a common love for surfing.

and bragging rights lies one thing, to be sure: most, if not all, of the kids blessed enough to visit Huntington Beach this special week went home with friendships and memories for life. A special thanks to Vissla, Visit Huntington Beach, and all the participating sponsors and administrators that bring these very special tribes of the world together again for a timeless gift that is always free.

Fernando Aguirre, President of the ISA since 1996.

Keala Tomoda-Bannert showing some aloha.

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BIKINIS

Team Japan takes home the gold.

Team Ranking Gold – Japan Silver – USA Bronze – Australia Copper – Hawaii 5 – France 6 – Spain 7 – Brazil 8 – South Africa 9 – Germany 10 – Portugal

Girls U-16 Gold – Caitlin Simmers (USA) Silver – Shino Matsuda (JPN) Bronze – Sara Wakita (JPN) Copper – Lucía Machado (ESP)

Boys U-16 Gold – Grayson Hinrichs (AUS) Silver – Kade Matson (USA) Bronze – Levi Slawson (USA) Copper – Riaru Ito (JPN)

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EVENTS

Robert Grilho

Eli Hanneman

NSSA Lahaina Photos: Keoki

Picture Lahaina Harbor with clear-blue sunny skies and semi-consistent 1-2 ft surf with a slight side onshore breeze. Maui’s premier high-performance spot was perfect for stop #4 of NSSA Hawaii, with a short, wedgie right-hander that is ideal for aerial surfing and a left that runs twice as long than the right with options for powerful turns and linkable aerials. There were a limited number of waves per set sneaking past Lanai into the harbor, keeping contestants in a seemingly constant exciting paddle battle each heat all the way to the final.

Despite the waves only reaching waist or chest high, Maui locals shined during the event. Air connoisseur and one of Lahaina’s

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stand-out performers, Eli Hanneman, was in top form punting frontside reverses on the rampy, dismal right-handers. Meanwhile, goofy-footer Noah Hill’s solid stature didn't keep him from executing two impressive air combos on the runny, less punchy lefthanders. In the end, Open Men’s National Champion Robert Grilho’s solid power surfing, flowy linking turns, and ability to catch any wave that broke was the formula that won the Open Men’s division.

The next stop for the National Scholastic Surfing Association will be held at the dynamic shallow reef break of Banyan’s on the Big Island, and is set to go down the weekend of November 3rd and 4th.

EVENTS

Menehune Surfing Championships Story and Photos: Keoki

A picture can tell a thousand words and the future looks bright.

Walking to the beach across the soft grassy field of Haleiwa Ali’i Beach Park, a frisbee zooms across my line of sight about a foot away from face. Three kids hurry to pick it up when it falls (not caring that it almost gave me a black eye) and throw it back to the small crowd of screaming friends. I should’ve known better and kept my eyes peeled while crossing the grassy knoll, considering it was littered with frothing groms that have waited all year for this event.

The 42nd annual Menehune Surfing Championships is the first event of the winter to kick off the North Shore contest season, and a staple for Hawaii’s up-and-coming surfers. Well over 450 people ranging in ages from 2-12 entered to compete in divisions such as Boys/Girls Shortboard, Longboard, Stand-up, and the infamous Kokua Division. The conditions were ideal for the pint-sized groms with 1-3 foot waves and blue skies for the entirety of the event.

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The highlight of the contest known simply as “The Menehune” is the popular Kokua Division where parents can help keiki aged 1-5 catch waves in 15-minute heat formats similar to the older divisions. Everyone's a winner at the end of the Kokua as all the keiki get trophies and goodie bags filled with prizes from the community and event sponsors.

The Menehune is an event all of Hawaii looks forward to every year not only because it kicks off the winter season: the stoke of the groms to surf and be a part of such a prestigious event keeps it going year after year. As a retired surfer from the event myself, I get just as excited to see kids pushing themselves as hard as they can, deeply instilling the confidence that helps a growing human being. “We are so fortunate to have such an amazing community, along with help from the ‘ohana and friends, everyone comes together to volunteer, support, and perpetuate the Menehune Surfing Championships,” says event director Ivy Blomfield.

Mahalo to Ivy Blomfield and Kawika Foster for dedicating countless hours in making this event as great as it ever was, and to the entire surfing community, sponsors and numerous volunteers (keiki included) that keep this event a staple in the North Shore community.

C H A M P I O N S H I P S

42nd ANNUAL NORTHSHORE MENEHUNE SURFING CHAMPIONSHIPS RESULTS 2018

4-6 BOY & GIRL SHORTBOARD 1. Devo Magyar 2. Emma Colandrea 3. Lincoln Barels 4. Tama Pere 5. Keala McElheny 6. Marcos Wunderlich

10-12 GIRLS SHORTBOARD 1. Vaihiti Inso 2. Erin Brooks 3. `Oaka Wong 4. Coco Hakikawa 5. Isla Sexton 6. Emma Pascua-Mitchell

7-9 BOYS LONGBOARD 1. Cruz Lemes 2. Tyce Nobmann 3. Manu Ferguson 4. Moses Kaleopaa 5. Zealand Pollock 6. Emery Abilla

7-9 GIRLS SHORTBOARD 1. Skai Suitt 2. Ruby Stringfellow 3. Noelo Wong 4. Chesney Guinotte 5. Emma Neumann 6. Ava Gold

10-12 GIRLS LONGBOARD 1. Sophia Culhane 2. Babe Kane 3. Marley Beschen 4. Ashley Bogart 5. Elliana Dowsett 6. Aliyah Bantolina

9-10 BOYS SHORTBOARD 1. Braedon Harris 2. Stone Suitt 3. Kalanoweo Desoto 4. Keone Roitman 5. Kielan Jardini 6. Nolan Senn

7-9 GIRLS LONGBOARD 1. Cash Hoover 2. Kula Blomfield 3. Chloe Colandrea 4. Eliza Speed 5. Leialoha Kawahakui 6. Peyton Schmalfeldt

7-8 BOYS SHORTBOARD 1. Pax Tybuszenski 2. Isaiah Dobson 3. Rayge Sussel-Suratt 4. Sunny Giles 5. Levi Swanson 6. Kamakani Fukumitsu

10-12 BOYS LONGBOARD 1. Tevaiari`i Foster-Blomfield 2. Nakui Murphey 3. Kai Dowis 4. Kaneloa Lane 5. Kaua Kahaulelio 6. Mala`e McElheny

11-12 BOYS SHORTBOARD 1. Matteus Santos 2. Luke Tema 3. Nalu Deodato 4. Paumalu Malone 5. Rivan Rock Rosskopf 6. Noah Budroe

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GIVING

Young and Brave

By Mara Pyzel Photos Young and Brave

Dedicated to those who are young, and brave, and fighting cancer.

Curran was moved to rewrite the narrative, and in 2011 the Young and Brave Foundation raised $30,000 for their very first Warrior at their inaugural event. Thanks to the generosity funneling through the foundation’s donation platform, the Young and Brave’s dynamic Warrior programs have helped raise and distribute over one million dollars to 50 families and counting. Through their Love Beats Cancer program, a place for the exchanging of inspiration and knowledge, patients connect with others who have survived the disease, celebrate successes, share information, and build a rock-solid support team.

The Young and Brave Foundation was created to support patients and their families in their battle against cancer. Acknowledging the shock a diagnosis of cancer bears, the organization aims to assist families with networking, fundraising, and support - emotionally, intellectually, and financially. Co-founded by pro surfer and Channel Islands Surfboards Global Team Manager Nathaniel Curran, the Young and Brave Foundation is a 501(c)3 nonprofit that got its start in 2009 after a close friend received the unforeseen diagnosis of leukemia. Adding to the burden was the lack of support that was readily available at that time. With no insurance and not many other resources, it soon became evident that the struggle was going to be with more than the cancer itself.

“These people are warriors who are going in to fight a war against this disease, young and brave. They are just like warriors, and we are their army,” said Curran.

“We found this huge need,” remembers Curran. “There’s all these nonprofits for cancer awareness and cancer research, which is great, but what about the people who need help and funding who are going through it today?”

Like an army, the success of the foundation is only as strong as its network. Fundraising events to help alleviate the financial needs of 40

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Warriors and their families include the Young and Brave Surf Charity Event, an annual Newport surf contest hosted by California surfer Tyler Gunter each April (where the vibe of generosity led one of this year’s grom winners to donate her winnings back to a Warrior); the Surf’n’Suds event in Carpinteria, California in August, which offers board shapers an opportunity to showcase their talent while attendees sip craft beers and eat tasty bites for a good cause; and a surfboard exchange/yoga event called My Brother’s Board Soirèe & Swap. Other fundraising opportunities include a real estate donation drive, live music events, a 5k run, and an annual golf tournament held each September. This year’s golf tournament proved highly impactful to the cause, raising an impressive $10,000.

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“The surf community has been really rad in supporting what we do, and lot of athletes have been super helpful in bringing awareness to these families that need help,” Curran remarked. “We’re just super appreciative to the surfing community...It’s such a tight knit group. They really support the people that are in their industry, so it’s definitely really cool.”

Many professional surfers like Sage Erickson, Jake Kelley, Timmy Curran, Dax and Finn McGill, and Keanu Asing have generously donated their time to help the Young and Brave Foundation achieve their mission. You can also help support this California-based nonprofit by purchasing Young and Brave gear from their online store, and by staying up-to-date with events and volunteer opportunities in your area via their website, theyoungandbrave.com, The Young and Brave Facebook page, and their Instagram account, @youngandbrave.

“There are so many families around the country that need a team of people who can just help them, love them, and just make them feel like they are not going through this by themselves,” says Curran.

So join the team.

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by Mara Pyzel

When I heard the results of the final heat of October’s HIC Pro, my initial reaction was, “Wait, what? Kiron’s back?”

Yes, Kiron Jabour was back. Back on island. Back in the game. Back and killing it.

By executing maneuvers with control and precision, Jabour earned the win in his final HIC heat against O'Neill Massin, Beyrick De Vries, and Slade Prestwich in late October at Sunset

Beach, taking home the first place trophy and 3,000 QS points. His positioning was impeccable, his turns powerful. Unaffected by having been out of the country and off the radar for the greater part of 2018, the North Shore native projected the comfort and confidence only those raised on Sunset Beach waves would ever be able to pull off. Luckily for Jabour, it was all he needed to cinch the win and barrel towards his next competitive goal: winning the Triple Crown.

Keoki

Kiron Jabour

On his HIC Pro win: “I got home just ten days before the contest, so I'm really happy to have a QS win at home in front of all my friends and family and at Sunset,” Jabour said.

“It's a really special wave for me. It was awesome to be able to come in and have all my friends and family there to chair me up and celebrate after.

We went to karaoke at Surfer Bar and pretty much just took over the stage. We were all just singing songs, it was just chaos! (laughs) But it was good!

On 2018 Winter goals: “I was able to get in a couple surfs before the [HIC Pro], I got to surf Sunset like twice. I kinda already know my boards,

Latronic

So what has Kiron Jabour been up to this past year?

How did he enter the winter season with such ferocity after being almost entirely off the radar the majority of the year?

Shortly after his Sunset win, Freesurf got some catch-up time with the champ himself. He filled us in on all the details of his life this past year, from stretching to surfing, from raising twins to going into business with girlfriend Leila Thomas. Though many would consider this juggling act a challenge, it's clearly working for Jabour, whose positivity is evident in all his endeavours.

just from all the years I've been working on them, so it's not like I was starting from scratch, you know? But it was good to be home a little bit before the contest and get used to surfing on a bigger board again,” he said. “Now, I'm focusing on The Triple Crown.

Hopefully Pipe gets really good because that's always a big focus during the winter: to get big barrels at Pipe and big waves. Hopefully there's some big swells. It's my favorite time of year, winter swells at home… nothing's better!”

“I've been doing some physical training here and there and surfing a bunch. I actually just stretch a lot when I'm at home. Because I surf so much I end up needing to stretch more than a normal person, I think,” Kiron said with a laugh.

“I don't know if that qualifies as training, but that's pretty much it…

That, and working on surfboards with Channel Islands and fine-tuning all that. I’m working on my surfing really hard, just trying to get better every day. The whole mindset of being in a heat and putting it all together is very different from going out and free surfing, just catching a bunch of waves and being stoked on just being in the water.

When you go out, you have to perform and get two good waves together in 25 minutes and, at the same time, manage your priority and wave selection. Once you catch a good wave, you have to surf your best -- you need to be able to keep your

mind sharp for that and relaxed at the same time.

It's just finding your own balance and what works for you. Everyone works differently.”

On other endeavours: “I've been working really hard with my girlfriend Leila [Thomas]. We're going to open up a frozen yogurt truck, so we're excited about that! It'll

know] all the little tricks about having a food truck, so I've been talking to them a lot and picking their brains. It's called Dee's Homemade in Haleiwa, and it should be opening sometime in December.”

On living in Portugal: “I live really close to Ericeira, so I've been surfing there a lot. That's

said. “[My twin daughters] just turned four in June, so I just started taking them out with me on a longboard and they love it! They've been having a blast! They have their little wetsuits on and they are cracking up, they are really starting to enjoy it.”

HIC Pro champion said.

“Everyone's always really psyched and stoked to see each other either get a big wave or get some kind of accomplishment like a contest [victory].

We're all about just surfing and being in the water.”

On his Hawai`i crew (including Eli Olsen, Koa Rothman, and the Florence brothers):

“I got to meet up with the boys for a really good Fiji swell back in May, that was really amazing,” he recalled. “That was my first time in Fiji and we got huge Cloudbreak, like 20 foot! I was watching guys towing like ginormous waves, I got to hang out with the boys, and that was really fun. Then I got back home and surfed Sunset for like two days, and then went to Tahiti to get a swell with the boys there and I came back right before the HIC. I hadn't been down to Tahiti for about three or four years, so I was really happy to get down there and see all my friends over there and surf a bunch. That's one of my favorite places to surf, for sure.”

On the future:

be here on North Shore,” Jabour said of the future.

“I've been talking to the Smiths [brothers Koa and Alex] and Koa Rothman because they have the Sunrise Shack and they have a lot of experience with all the ups and downs, all of the learning experiences they've had to go through. [They

where all the reef breaks are, so I love that. I'm also really close to Cascais, but that's more of a beach break. Ericeira is definitely my favorite area to surf when I'm over there, [but] I've still got a lot of exploring to do in the European countries.

There's still a lot of waves I want to to go to,” Kiron

48

“We grew up together, always surfing and pushing each other and we’re all best friends. I don't get to see them as much now that I spend more time in Portugal, but we're always messaging or catching up over the phone and I see them [at breaks] around the world or here at home,” the

“I don't have a main sponsor, so it's been hard to do a lot of contests, but I do as many as I can, especially the big ones,” Jabour said. “I've always wanted to qualify for the CT and give that a go. That's always been a dream of mine, competitively. I feel like I'm in a good place, just taking it moment by moment and figuring life out as I go. I'm not planning too far ahead right now; I'm just kind of

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Keoki “I'm in all three [Triple Crown] events so I'm definitely really excited for that. My main goal is to get the Triple Crown, so I'm gonna give that a really good go and try to do my best in all three events. I'm excited for it.

I don't think I could feel any more confident!” said the beaming local boy.

“That [HIC Pro win] was a perfect start. I'm just trying to reset and keep working on what I can.

Even though I won the contest, there's always little details I can work on to try to make it better.

I'm really stoked on the win, but there's a lot of work to do for the Triple Crown. I'm excited!” pau

Keoki

just going with it because who knows what will happen? (laughs) I'm just going as I go. We've got this big project with the frozen yogurt truck, too, so hopefully that works out, but either way it's going to be a huge learning experience to open up a business.”

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F I R S T

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By Kyveli Diener

There’s very little parking left at Sunset Beach, but all Rainos Hayes needed was one spot at October's HIC Pro to set up a gathering place to advise and support a half dozen of today’s most promising young surfers. From his burly pickup truck with an easy-up over the bed, Hayes morphs from one man into four. Simultaneously, Rainos individually prepped the surfer about to paddle out for his heat, continuously quizzed the whole crew on how the waves ridden so far were being scored and what mistakes they could avoid, checked that all the young men were eating the snacks and drinking the water he made sure were available, prepared himself to paddle out and caddy, confirmed that each surfer had the right boards with them, and — just when it seemed to most that he couldn’t possibly spare an ounce more attention for anyone else — he volunteered to help stop traffic on Kamehameha Highway for someone pulling out of the spot beside him with a simple, “Hey, let me help you out!”

“Rainos is someone who cares for everyone in the surf community. He's given back to so many generations of surfing, and not just to people who are connected with Billabong,” said Josh Moniz, a Billabong team rider and Hayes disciple since the age of 7. “He doesn't care who you are: if you need help, he's always there for a helping hand.”

Moniz’s description is pretty much what everyone has to say about Rainos: there’s no one better to have in your corner, and he’s more than ready and willing to get in absolutely everyone’s corner. The only person who wouldn’t describe Hayes that way is Rainos himself — the Sunset Beach native is deeply humble, showcasing the true meaning of living pono every day by selflessly giving of himself without a second thought. Even he is surprised by how many people he can help at once sometimes, and when pushed for the source of this generous lifestyle he mused that he perhaps picked it up from his great-grandfather, Maurice Thomas, who coached football, basketball, baseball, and track for a high school in Minnesota where he was also a teacher.

“He was a very genuine and caring man, and he cared for the welfare of not only his family, but also the athletes and the students. Putting in that extra time with all those kids, I think he really helped the best he could within the community that he lived in, and everybody was happy to receive his help in every aspect,” Hayes said in his calm, soothing voice, always taking the time to choose his words carefully, to always consciously be sure that he means what he says.

Keoki

Being a surfing superfan keeps Rainos’ spirit grom-like regardless of his years — like his never-changing physical attributes, his vibe seems at least 20 years younger than he actually is. He froths over waves and cheers for everyone, even if they’re his boys’ competition. That constant positivity draws back former students who just want to hang at Rainos’ truck before their heats and bask in the human sunshine he exudes. At the HIC Pro, Elijah Gates and Benji Brand — who both enjoyed benefitting from Hayes’ coaching during their formative years before aging out of ISA juniors or switching sponsors — lingered at the Billabong truck throughout the event.

A former competitor on both the Qualifying Series and World Championship tours, Rainos has devoted most of his time over the past two decades to shaping the phenomenal waveriders bringing pride to the Hawaiian flag today, with some of his early success stories including Kekoa Cazimero, Joel Centeio, Hank Gaskell, and Ian Walsh. Through his years serving as one of the coaches of the junior Team Hawaii for the International Surfing Association, he’s had a hand in elevating athletes like Benji Brand, Elijah Gates, Keanu Asing, Zeke Lau, Albee Layer, Tanner Hendrickson, and Dylan Goodale, as well as essentially all of the top female performers who have emerged from the region. He also wears the hat of head Hawaiian coach for Billabong, shaping the team’s local riders — many of whom he’s watched grow up — as well as supporting the brand’s young players from South Africa (Adin Massencamp), Australia (Liam O’Brien), and Brazil (Victor Bernardo) as they learn to master Hawaiian surf.

There are countless Rainos-isms one will hear from the coach if you hang around long enough, and they soak deep into the young minds he’s molding. Gates said he can still hear Rainos’ famous advice, “Ramp it up, brah!” whenever he’s sitting in the lineup.

Josh Moniz sounded like a mini Rainos when he offered guidance to Kaito Kino, for whom he caddied at the HIC Pro, saying, “Keep it simple, Kaito: just get started early, don’t worry about the bumps [on the face].

Just turn, turn, and get out,” Moniz calmly said, flicking his fingers with each “turn” to represent the hack off the lip Kino should aim for. Getting started early and laying at least two monster turns — “no half turns,” as Rainos’ boys dutifully repeat — on each wave are cornerstones of the Hayes model for heat success.

Of course, in true Rainos fashion, he wishes he could do even more, saying, "I honestly wish I could [coach] all of our guys out here.

I want them all to be the best athletes and humans they can become, and I want to see them all perform at that level…[regardless if they’re with Billabong] I’m still a friend, and I’m still a fan.”

“He always gives us a nice hug before our heat, warms us up and gives us a lot of information,” Seth Moniz said of his mentor.

“He repeats himself a lot, but when you’re out there in a heat it’s easy to forget stuff he said. So the more he repeats to us, it gets us thinking and keeps us remembering what he’s saying, it keeps you sharp.”

Rainos’ focus for his students is mistakefree surfing, and everything from their wave selection to board choice is the correct answer because Hayes has gotten them in the habit

54

Keoki

“I never think of myself in those terms, and I don’t think he did either. When the horn blows, that’s my gift. I’m able to perform at that level and be there for everybody, and it’s something I enjoy,” he said. “It’s only as of recently when I’m looking at how many generations of kids I’ve worked with in the past…Generation after generation as they’ve all grown up and become adults with their own lives and their own kids and jobs, it’s really neat to see that they turned out to be good human beings. That’s always been the goal for me: it was never about the result in events, it was about making sure that the kids had a good work ethic and, in the end, became good humans.”

of being true to the present moment, trusting their instincts, and letting other surfers in the heat be the ones to make the errors. One unique coaching aspect for Hayes is the radio he always takes out into the lineup with him with he caddies, which he waterproofs by double wrapping it in condoms. Hayes leaves the other radio with one of the boys on land, who relay to him the scores for each wave and situation updates, which can be hard to hear from the far-out lineup at Sunset. In return, Rainos constantly speaks words of wisdom into the radio throughout the heat, never taking a break from coaching his attentive crew. Those pearls tend to be morsels of advice that would also benefit the athlete and anyone around them in making good life choices, such as his advice, “Wait for the real deal. It’s very rare that there’s two real deals, so pick a winner, baby.”

knew was within him, skyrocketing to the top of the QS rankings and entering the Triple Crown within spitting distance of a spot on the elite World Championship Tour at just 21 years old.

For the past year, Rainos has backed off his ISA coaching duties to focus on traveling with and supporting his top QS campaigners, which are McGill, the brothers Moniz, and one outstanding Australian named Reef Hazealwood, who opened his Triple Crown campaign with some truly jaw-dropping aerials during free surfs at Rocky Point that went viral throughout the surf world. Rainos describes the dynamic between the four as

“Surfing is such a selfish sport — it’s selfcentered and self-seeking and you’re chasing and you’re seeing how big you can push yourself — it’s a real inside job, and part of that inside job is, instead of just being a taker, [ask yourself] ‘what have I got to give?’,” Rainos said. “If you’ve been lucky enough to have surfing give you this beautiful life, we need to be grateful because it’s a gift. And when we play as rough as we do, it’s a gift that could be taken at any moment. To get the lifestyle out of it, to get the health and the connection and the mana from Mother Ocean is huge, and that should be enough.

If you are blessed enough to get that, then give it back.”

Never one to pat himself on the back, Rainos always first acknowledges any former coaches and the families of the athletes when discussing the success of his pupils. But the truth is that Rainos is a tried, tested, and proven super coach — under his guidance in the past two years, three Hawaiian standouts to whom he devotes extra attention have walked away with monstrous accolades at a very young age. This includes Finn McGill, who not only won the 2016 Pipe Masters trials at the age of 16 for a chance to battle and very nearly defeat seasoned athletes like Jordy Smith and Joel Parkinson in the illustrious main event, but who also went on to win the title of 2018 World Junior Champion earlier this year.

“He has helped me through so much it's crazy!” McGill said of his coach. “He coached me from a young little brat to an adult, so there was so many life lessons on the way.

He’s an amazing person that just wants the best for everyone and he won't stop until they have reached their full potential, and even there he'll still try to make them a better surfer or person!”

The other two local boys who have blossomed with Hayes’ help are a pair of brothers who represent one of the most esteemed families in Hawaiian surfing history: Josh Moniz, who Rainos coached to his first professional victory this year at the prestigious Volcom Pipe Pro, and younger Seth Moniz, who with the support of Hayes has displayed the natural talent everyone

Rainos is responsible for turning multiple generations of frothing groms into disciplined, well-rounded athletes, and many are predicting that there are world titles in the cards for the young men he’s coaching today. Rainos has his eyes on those hopes himself, too, but that’s not why he does it. He doesn’t care if athletes he’s coached choose to go the free surfing route or end up just keeping surfing as a beloved pastime as they age. What he cares about for every person he meets, every young life he impacts, everyone that gets the chance to hear his Rainos-isms and feel his reassuring hand on their back as he whispers advice in their ear is much bigger than contests. The end goal for all of it is that those surfers will choose to live well, be good people, and give back to others, just like he does.

the Older Brother (Josh), the Little Brother (Seth), the Disciplined One (Reef), and the Baby of the Bunch (Finn), and the highest level of “misbehavior” on their global journeys has been when the boys get a bit too engrossed playing Fortnite on their phones.

“They’re pretty good boys. They’re not questioning their ability anymore, they know what the game is. What the group dynamic brings to that is: together we can do what alone we cannot. It’s that age old thought process that it takes a village to raise a child, or at the least it takes a family,” he said of the traveling troupe.

“That’s always been the goal, the result was never first and foremost,” he continued. “And in the end, if the kids did all the right work and they applied themselves and they were humble and learned how to actually give back in this magical sport, it’s funny how it comes back around. Surfing chooses its own, and rewards those who are connected.” pau

Keoki

Heff

Keoki

Mason Ho

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Sammy Rust and Ocean Macedo

Finn McGill

Elijah Gates

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Rising Aussie star, Reef Heazlewood gets high above Rocky Point.

Photo: Keoki

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Life is definitely better in board shorts especially if you're Joel Parkinson.

Always smooth, Parko makes a tumultuous inside bowl at Sunset look easy.

Photo: Mike Latronic

Pipeline perspective. Photo: Shane Grace

Never a dull moment with Flynn Novak Photo: Phillip Kitamura

Michel Bourez, aka "The Spartan", lays heavy tracks at Sunset Beach Photo: Mike Latronic

Moana Jones, secret spot. Photo: Christa Funk

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One life, right?

Don’t blow it.

From big wave heroics to small wave frothing, Nathan Fletcher loves it all. Photo: Keoki

2018

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SHOOTS

Changing of the Tides w/ Zak and Shane

By Keoki Saguibo

zak noyle Your program is very beneficial to excelling in surf photography -what are you looking to achieve through your program?

I got into photography through a love for the ocean and capturing moments. I would not be where I am today without the help and support of my family and friends, but mainly my father and mother. My father being a professional photographer really helped guide me and open doors in the photography world. I know I am so truly lucky for that guidance and help, and I wouldn’t be where I am at without it.

So by creating Changing of the Tides I am able to mentor and help the next generation to get their foot in the surf industry door, which usually is pretty tough to do on one's own. I have achieved a lot, beyond my wildest dreams, but I am far from over and still so inspired and driven.

To me, inspiring and helping another achieve their dreams would be just as amazing as if it was happening to myself.

Zak Noyle, Danny Fuller, Tyler Newton Photo: Shane Grace

To me, some of my biggest rivals in water photography are my closest and best friends, from Corey Wilson and Brent Bielmann to Todd Glaser and Keoki Saguibo. What it shows

me is we are all friends, always looking out for one another in the water.

We talk on a regular basis and help one another.

There is no room for pettiness as we all are there for a love of the ocean. I want to show and share this comradery with this next generation of shooters. We gathered several times as a group

and did activities to help them. We went to Kai Borg [Garcia]’s house and did a breathing class, as well as had the North 72

Shore lifeguards come to teach all about CPR and the basics of water rescues.

What did you learn this year from Changing of the Tides?

I learned a lot. I am a creative and photographer, so the management side and organization was a little overwhelming for me. But I handled and managed, and I believe it was a success thus far.

How did you see Shane grow in his work through your event?

Shane’s work has grown so much in the past year and a half, on his own and with his own amazing drive. Shane would leave town before 4:00 am on his moped

and drive on side streets since you can’t moped on the freeway to North Shore.

That’s insane commitment to me. He was there for the love and passion, and I really admire that about him.

What do you see for the future of surf photography and do you have any advice for people that are starting out?

The future is bright, though it’s difficult to pursue actual print media.

We are very lucky to have Freesurf remaining as the last monthly publication in surf. But with digital [media], kids have such a great platform to show their work on. Advice my dad always gave me was: “shoot loose and edit tight.” To me, if you

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Why did you pick Tahiti for the destination of your program?

Tahiti has always been my favorite location and destination.

I hadn’t been back in 3 years, so selfishly I definitely wanted to go back when the swell presented itself.

I wanted to share with Shane that love for the waves, water, people and food.

We did look at Europe, Mexico and a few other spots throughout the summer, but nothing lined up. I’m glad we waited for these Tahiti swells.

What advice can you give to working surf photographers that are struggling to make a name for themselves in this industry?

Be persistent. Let your work and work ethic speak for itself. Someone easy to work with and driven to do well will go a lot further. Always shoot what you love and that will help you make a name for yourself.

What can we look forward to from Changing of the Tides for the years to come?

Changing of the Tides is coming back in a big way for 2019: we are going international. The first was to help my friends and community to go forward. Now we are going worldwide, but we

will always do a Hawaiionly contest every other year to help the place I love and was born and raised.

Advice my dad always gave me was: “shoot loose and edit tight.” To me, if you shoot photos of what you truly love, it will shine and grow for you. -zak

Zak Noyle

shoot photos of what you truly love, it will shine and grow for you.

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How does it feel to be a part of Zak's Changing of the Tides, and what have you learned about yourself and your work through his program?

It’s been a privilege to be a part of this community of up-and-coming surf photographers.

Everybody has a unique eye and passion for what they do, and it’s inspiring to be around. I’ve learned more than I can articulate, but the biggest areas of learning have been in water safety/training, evaluating my work from a more critical, removed perspective, and speaking to an audience.

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Where would you like to take your photography this season and in the future?

There’s not necessarily a specific goal, but some of the big-picture things I’m working on are continuing to develop my eye, being in the right place at the right time, and spending more time in the water learning about the ocean.

How did it feel to work with some of the best surfers in the world in Tahiti?

It was really cool to work with all the Hawai`i guys who went over to Tahiti for that trip. It’s motivating to see how much they push themselves, and energizing to see the

camaraderie they have.

They’re all on such a high level with their surfing and ocean knowledge, that as photographer you really just have to focus on keeping up with them and being in the right spot as things unfold.

What do you think is the most unique aspect of being a surf photographer, and why did you choose surf photography?

In my eyes, the most unique aspect of surf photography is the blend of creativity that goes into making an image. It’s an interesting combination of physical and mental skills that involves both visualization and split-second reaction,

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"They’re all on such a high level with their surfing and ocean knowledge, that as photographer you really just have to focus on keeping up with them and being in the right spot as things unfold."

- shane

technical knowledge and ocean ability, long days in the water and endless hours behind a screen. It’s like a dance with the natural world that involves many subtle nuances and small decisions that culminate in a millisecond.

Shane Grace

It’s never felt like I sought out this path. I’ve been in love with the ocean ever since I can remember and always enjoyed being outside and making things. When I had the desire to buy my first camera I didn’t really know why, it just seemed like something that would be interesting.

When I look at it now, it was simply a platform where all of my interests merged, and ultimately my favorite thing about it is that it’s another vehicle to spend more time in the ocean.

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Surround yourself with loving, motivating, and brutally honest people.

Treat criticism and rejection as gifts that let you know how to improve."

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You have a very unique eye, what is your thought process before you start a project, job, or just-for-fun shoot?

My thought process is pretty much always the same. I try to learn as much as possible about my subject beforehand, whether it’s a wave that breaks a certain way, a person I’m shooting a portrait of, or a place I’m trying to document. Armed with this information, I’ll usually let it simmer and I’ll daydream, trying to roughly visualize what things might look like.

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Next, I try to understand where and when the best place to be is and what gear will help me accomplish what I want to create. Then I simply immerse myself, stop thinking and react to things as they play out, occasionally pausing to note what is grabbing my attention and making sure I’m capturing that.

I don’t usually look at anything until it’s all said and done, then I try to assemble a cohesive batch of images that best communicates the moment or experience.

What advice would you give to people starting out in surf photography?

I’m surely not the best person to be giving advice, but some of the most important things I’ve learned so far are: Figure out what you love and throw yourself at it. Create good habits.

Surround yourself with loving, motivating, and brutally honest people.

Treat criticism and rejection as gifts that let you know how to improve.

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JUNIOR REPORT

Shion Crawford Story and Photos Keoki Saguibo

A product of the North Shore Oahu surfing community, Haleiwa’s Shion Crawford has been lighting up both the in contest scene as well as during freesurfs. A tall, quiet, and reserved 13-year-old whose favorite breaks are Haleiwa and Pipeline, Crawford has a knack for impressive power surfing and an eye for the barrel. With the coaching help of Hurley’s Joel Centeio, a crew of ripping friends, and even a heat at Haleiwa against 11-time world champion Kelly Slater, Shion has a solid foundation for his surfing future. We caught up with the lanky barely-teenage powerhouse to see what’s to come from him this season and beyond.

DOB: March 5, 2005 Sponsors: Hurley, Nixon, Creatures of Leisure, Oakley, Sun Bum, Schaper SurfBoards, and Sannemoto Instagram: @shioncrawford When did you start surfing and where is your favorite spot to surf?

I started surfing when I was three years old. I started off with a boogie-board, and I would wander off into the water. At times, the Haleiwa Uncles had to come and rescue me from the rip current! My favorite spot to surf is either Haleiwa or Pipe. I like surfing there because it is never the same, and there’s always something new to learn.

Who is your favorite surfer?

I can’t choose one surfer, but I like Griffin

Colapinto, J.O.B. [Jamie O’Brien], and Filipe Toledo. I like Griffin because his style is super smooth, and even at a young age he’s doing good on tour. J.O.B. is awesome because he enjoys doing crazy stunts, which is fun to watch -- on top of that, he surfs amazing at Pipe. Filipe is insane to me. His airs are always so high and he lands them in contests. He inspires me to get better at surfing.

Who did you look up to when growing up?

I looked up to John John [Florence]. He went to the same elementary school as me, Sunset Beach Elementary, and I had the same 6th grade teacher as him, Mrs. Pule. She would let me leave my board in her class when I went surfing across the street. John John is cool to me because he was born on the North Shore, like I am, and we get to live in

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the same community. Because of his good performances, he is definitely someone I looked up to.

Who do you like to surf with and why?

I surf with my friends, because we always have a good time and they motivate me to surf my best. Some of my friends include: Leo Olson, Nalu Deodato, Makana Franzmann, MaiKai Burdine, Thatcher Johnson, Clive MacMurray, Levi Young, Luke Swanson, Eli Hanneman, Anton Hagen, and more. Most of my friends grew up with me on the North Shore, so it’s cool to see us still surfing together and enjoying it like we did when we were little.

What are the benefits of growing up the North Shore?

I love living on the North Shore! The

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community revolves around helping one another, and being in the ocean is another home for me. I am beyond fortunate to surf with professional surfers and have amazing opportunities to try new things. This past winter, Kelly Slater was surfing Haleiwa and I asked him to do a heat with me. He said yes, and we surfed a 30 minute heat. It was super fun to surf with a professional surfer, and it motivated me to do my best and get better. On another day, Ross Williams took me out to Waimea for the first time and gave me his board that he rode during the Eddie Aikau. I had lots of fun that day, and I surfed real Waimea for the first time. Carl Schaper has been shaping my boards ever since I was five years old. His factory is on the North Shore, and having him watch over me and my surfing is special to me -- the bond I have with Uncle Carl is something I am grateful

for. The North Shore Lifeguard Association is an organization that has helped me to grow as an athlete. With their run-swimruns and their workouts, they’ve helped me become more fit. Competing on Kauai for Team Oahu was an event I will never forget.

Thank you to Mikey Bruneau, Kyle Foyle, Jeffo, DJ, Matt, Kamu, Kumu, and all of the lifeguards around the island who helped me a lot. Furthermore, I want to thank all of the Haleiwa Uncles: Uncle Joel Centeio, Freddy P., Sean Moody, Bam, and Jason Shibata for surfing with me and giving me advice.

What's it like to work with Joel Centeio through Hurley?

Joel is awesome to work with. He’s been working with me for so long now, and he knows me well. He knows my strengths and weaknesses, and gives me the best advice

for contests. When I see him around freesurfing, it’s fun to surf with him and run practice heats. Joel was the one who got me to train with Kid Peligro in ginastica. That has taught me how to move better, which helped my surfing improve. I am so fortunate to be working with Joel and the Hurley Team.

What are your surfing goals and how do you plan to reach them?

My goal for this season is to win a National Title in California, and to place in the Junior Pros in the Hawaii Region. I plan to reach my goals by surfing everyday, training, and not only learning how to become a better surfer, but a better athlete. After spending time on the QS and Pro Junior tours, I plan to get on the World Surf League [Championship Tour] and surf professionally. After I achieve those goals, I want to become a great role model -- not only for others, but for my community.

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COMMUNITY -- whose current students took walking field trips to Estess’ wave while engaging in an educational discussion about the positive impact an individual can have on the earth. P.U.R.E. and Plastic Free Pipeline, along with funding from the Johnson Ohana Charitable Foundation, the Turtle Bay Foundation, and Bureo Skateboards, are bringing awareness to our environmental impact as a community and as surfers.

If you’ve made your way down to Ehukai Beach Park to check out the 2018 Billabong Pipe Masters, you may have noticed a giant wave made of derelict fishing net and marine debris. Using 99% found and reused materials, the Plastic Free Pipeline sculpture installation aims to highlight the World Surf League’s move toward hosting more sustainable, earth-friendly contests with a fun, playful background for selfies or barrel shots with friends.

Constructed less than a mile from its current home, it is a oneof-a-kind design for the Pipeline Masters #PlasticFreeWave greening and marine debris awareness campaign.

Working in collaboration with the WSL, Kōkua Hawai`i Foundation, and Sustainable Coastlines Hawai`i, Santa Cruz-based artist Ethan Estess paid a visit to Oahu to construct the upcycled marine debris wave. Estess, a surfer who spends his days studying tuna patterns at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, is particularly invested in changing what he sees awash in our oceans. Keeping in mind his goal of using recycled materials to create something that is initially “eye-catching,” Estess wants people to reflect on the “lowly beginnings of the materials”. The wave was constructed from marine debris, microplastics, and lost fishing nets known as ghost nets, all of

Catch the #PlasticFreeWave at Plastic Free Pipeline by Mara Pyzel which were collected from our local shores during a series of beach cleanups organized by Kōkua Hawai`i Foundation and Sustainable Coastlines Hawai`i this past year. As recently as November, volunteers from the

In recent years, the WSL has prioritized mindfulness when it comes to their environmental impact worldwide. Through their P.U.R.E. nonprofit -Protecting, Understanding, and Respecting the Environment -- the WSL’s greening efforts have included beach cleanups, erosion protection, and reducing the distribution of single-use plastics at contests like the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.

By ceasing their use of plastic straws, styrofoam containers for athletes’ food, and a partnership with Hydroflask to encourage the use of reusable bottles, the WSL is spreading their message of sustainability through this visual statement. The piece is not only an awareness campaign for contest goers, but has evolved thanks to strong community ties through local partnerships.

WSL partner Kōkua Hawai`i Foundation hosted the Plastic Free Hawai`i Youth Summit this past November, promoting a meeting of young minds generating achievable solutions to environmental threats.

Another collaboration was with Sunset Beach Elementary -which boasts alumni John John Florence and Jack Johnson

community gathered materials from the sandy beach of James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge, Kahuku Point, and Makapu`u Beach. The most fitting pieces were then curated by students from schools all over Oahu and, just before Thanksgiving, Estess went to work constructing from these scraps an upcycled, overhead barrell.

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Moved to be a part of the sea of change? Here’s what you can do: Carpool, walk, or bike to the Billabong Pipe Masters. Once there, check out Ethan Estess’ marine debris wave and post your picture onto social media, and don’t forget to hashtag it with #PlasticFreeWave for a chance to win limited edition Hydroflask bottle on days when the contest is running. Stay hydrated by refilling your own reusable bottle at the contest’s water stations. Most importantly, after a sustainable and thrilling day at the contest, leave the beach with your own rubbish plus three more and a commitment to one small personal change towards sustainability, just like the plasticfree pledges your favorite surfers have already made.

To check out artist and marine scientist Ethan Estess’ art exhibition featured here at Pipe as well as other projects at the Surf Ranch, Monterey Bay Aquarium, and San Francisco International Airport, visit his website at ethanestess.com.

For more information about the projects mentioned and any future projects, check out kokuahawaiifoundation. o r g / p l a s t i c f r e e , sustainablecoastlineshawaii. org, and www.worldsurfleague. com/pure. You can check out the marine debris wave at Ehukai Beach Park Dec. 8-20th and catch the #PlasticFreeWave every day!

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Tattooing Hawaiian Tapping: The word tattoo derives from the Tahitian word, “tatua” which in Hawaiian is “kakau.” Broken down, the word in Hawaiian means, ka, “to strike” and kau, “to place upon.” The process of traditional tapping occurs when a plastic or wooden mallet hits the moli, a piece of sharp bone responsible for piercing the skin.

The moli leaves a mark known as “uhi,” translating to covering or veil. Traditionally, ancient tattoos symbolized tribes, family histories, and relationships with the environment, while contemporary Western tattoos depict any image desired.

Those who opt for a traditional tattoo will have designs similar to the past. Historically, only those deemed “Kahuna” tattooed the people, and the symbols and techniques he employed were oral stories passed between generationsfrom master to apprentice.

For the most part, there are no written records explaining each symbol, the records are within the tattooists head for fear of symbolic misinterpretation. Each

symbol applied to the body has a spiritual significance particular to that person and their story. The tattoos are intended to preserve the person's history and protect their being. However, over the course of the 1900s, the art of traditional tattooing disappeared from the Hawaiian islands altogether.

opportunity to learn from the man seen as the master of tap tattooing- Su’a Sulu’ape Paolo of New Zealand. Returning to Hawaii, Nunes dedicated his life to the artistry of traditional tapping. As the original master of the Hawaiian revival, Nunes has trained many apprentices to continue the tapping tradition.

The profession of a traditional tattooist is more of a lifestyle than a career. To become a

In the late 90’s, Hawaiian Keone Nunes, began a revival of

traditional tattooing. Recognized by others for possessing a natural talent in tapping and an interest in learning, he had the

master, you are a student until he passes away. Before his passing, the master will choose one of his students to succeed him, and 88

they will become the new master, while the others will not. There is no set time for an apprenticeship under Nunes, he graduates you when you are ready, and you remain his student until he dies. Currently, Nunes has five apprentices, all of whom believe that Nunes chose them by fate. An apprentice tells Freesurf, “If characteristics align and how you act and carry yourself and move aligns, then he might select you.”

But Nunes must recognize a sense of commitment amongst those who show interest. He will invite them back to learn over and over again, taking note of who returns and how often. The decision to accept the offer from Nunes is not one to be taken lightly. His dedicated apprentice tells us that he was, “extremely hesitant at first because of the weight of the responsibility it held. It’s a lifelong commitment. A lifestyle commitment. Everything you do has to be calculated in how you act and carry yourself. It’s a spirituality thing.” For those who choose to follow Nunes’s path, they assist him in his work on a regular basis.

Clients do not hire Nunes to perform what they want; they hire Nunes to create a tattoo that they were destined to have, that pays tribute to their past and protects them and their families in their future. “I ask them to tell me about themselves. I ask what is important for the person. What do they want it to represent, and then we go from there. Often when I’m talking with them, I get certain feelings as to what might be appropriate even though they might not say it. 98-99%

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of the time I'm pretty spot on.”

Nunes creates something unique for each person he tattoos. By tradition, only the artist can come up with the design. “It tells about who he is, some of the protective types of things and some things about his quest for knowledge,” he tells me. While Nunes is open to tattooing nonHawaiians, he talks to them first to find out the reason they want the tattoo; he needs to have a good feeling about the person and the reasoning for the tattoo first. There is also much thought and preparation put into the process of tapping. Before the client arrives, Nunes prays, and before he taps, he says a silent prayer over the ink bowl. The black ink is carbon-based, unlike the ink in conventional tattoo parlors. As humans are carbon based, the ink must also be so as to become a part of the body.

Soot is also used from a kukui nut to thicken the base.

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Nunes uses a hippo tusk as his moli, as well as a piece of highquality plastic as his mallet. Just as Nunes chooses what symbols comprise the tattoo, he also picks where the tattoo goes. The first tattoo on the body is the leg because each leg represents a different side of a human- the right side being male and the left side being female. As customary, the tattoo goes on the side that is opposite from the person’s sex to “create balance and strengthen the opposite side.” The opposite side is “where we have weakness and are not understanding the power and significance of the other side,” and in this way, we can achieve a spiritual balance.

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ENVIRONMENT I got a call from some random dude about a year ago. Nothing out of the ordinary because I get a lot of them. I answered with my standard, “This is Kahi,” in a voice a bit deeper than it actually is.

On the other end wasn’t some scammer acting like the IRS or my credit card company. It was some dude named Ethan Estess, and he had an idea.

Since the beginning of Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii, we’ve used more than just our epic cleanups as a means to promoting our message of STOP USING SO MUCH DAMN PLASTIC. We’ve also engaged with art as a form of activism -put them together and you get “artivism.”

Artivism

by Kahi Pacarro

piece was a perfect metaphor of the current situation Hawaii finds itself in. Not only from a pollution standpoint, but in parallel with many of the social issues of Hawaii as a result of colonialism and capitalism. The introduction of western lifestyle have plagued Hawaii and continue to contribute to its degradation.

art is deemed successful in terms of the potential sale price or in a collective admiration. In those terms, this piece of art was a failure. But another indicator of success is in the discussion and the philosophical discomfort it creates. In those terms, the Plastic Banyan was a huge success.

The uncomfortable feelings of those touched by the Plastic

The Mango Tree was strangled

Ethan showed up with his team just before the last jewel of the 2017 Triple Crown, perfectly timed to activate an installation he called the Plastic Banyan.

Scouring through the treasure trove of plastic pollution we collect as part of our Ocean Plastics Program with Parley for the Oceans, he found exactly what he needed. Loading up about a ton of ropes, challenging the shocks on the van, Ethan made the trip from a zone on the North Shore that is home to the dirtiest beaches on the island to a mango tree a few miles away at Pipeline.

There he untangled the mess with a mix of volunteers and began the task of turning that mango tree into one of the most invasive trees in Hawaii, the Banyan. He planned to convert a tree that provides food and a beautiful canopy into a tree that, if left unchecked, will take over the landscape with its aggressive roots while also littering the land beneath with foliage that limits growth of native ground cover.

With the group’s work, the Mango Tree had become the Plastic Banyan. In its glory, the art

in pollution that arrived on our coastlines from thousands of miles away. The debris killed while at sea, and contributed to further destruction upon coming ashore by damaging our inner reef ecosystems. Once on land, the pollution continued to pose dangers to nesting sea turtles and critically endangered monk seals.

Banyan came to a head on the final day of the Pipe Masters, when an oversized truck blocked an already congested Ke Nui Road. Oblivious to the traffic he was creating, a man marched over with a furrowed brow, an upside down smile and a camera in hand. I actually thought he was admiring the art, but in reality he was pissed! He threatened to call the cops and sue us unless we removed the art piece immediately. This member of the neighborhood board with his anger and aggressive attitude

Despite the artivism message, the Plastic Banyan was quick to be ridiculed with a message lost on the vast majority. Often times, 92

was the perfect validation to the art piece’s purpose. As he stormed off, we realized our work had been done. Our volunteers removed the piece that afternoon and as we did, another individual cheered the removal. I explained to her the meaning of the art piece, and we hope she realized the irony of her disgust.

Despite the threats, many found the Plastic Banyan a truly inspiring and unique approach to making a statement. This year, the WSL has partnered with Kokua Hawaii Foundation, Hydroflask, Turtle Bay Resort, and Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii to collaborate with Ethan on an installation project utilizing derelict nets and ropes to build the “Plastic Free Pipeline”. The nets and rope that will be collected off the beaches of North Shore in close proximity to Pipeline are known as ADLFG (abandoned, derelict, or lost fishing gear), and these ghost nets are the result of fishing industry being lax on regulating themselves while also influencing governments to minimize legislative regulations.

We can point the finger at them, but we also must look ourselves in the mirror. If you don’t know who caught the fish you eat, you may be supporting the wrong fishermen. Get to know the person that catches your dinner and demand the fishing industry work to minimize the negative externalities associated with providing food.

We welcome you at the Pipeline Masters to feel, get inside, and engage with the Plastic Free Pipeline as a call to avoid a dystopian future.

Learn more about Ethan Estess's work at www.ethanestess.com.

Salani Surf Resort Samoa ,

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For details and reservations: waterwaystravel.com | 888.669.7873 (SURF) PHOTO: T. REDENOUR

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BANYANS Jan 12-13

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8/30/18 11:34 AM

Jason Kaneao

I N D USTRY NOTE S

Dusty Payne returns to competition After sustaining a life-threatening wipeout at Backdoor less than a year ago, Maui’s Dusty Payne is already back in the jersey and back up on the competition horse. After several months of promising free surfing footage emerging from Maui, Dusty made his first appearance back in Round 3 of the HIC Pro at Sunset Beach in October, and is looking to give a solid run at the Vans Triple Crown and beyond.

Eha Koa YMCA Armed Services Golf Tournament For those who have enjoyed the experience of eating a delicious lunch or dinner at Restaurant 604 you are well aware 604 means to please in a big way, every time. With tasty dishes, large portions and consistent and professional service, the establishment is dedicated to return customers and supporting community and family values.

And support they did at this year's Eha Koa YMCA Armed Services Golf Tournament. Restaurant 604 teamed up with Chinen Marketing group to help raise money to help the families of our service men and women who have been wounded or killed during service. Says Donovan Maples, number 1 at 604, "We do it because it’s the least we can do for the men and women of our armed services for protecting our country. "

Matt Raynor survives violent home invasion Shaper Matt Raynor’s home was invaded in the middle of the night in mid-October. The burglars broke in while Raynor while he and his family were sleeping, and an ensuing physical attack when the father of two defended his home left him with multiple stab wounds, a dislocated shoulder, bruises, and a concussion. Raynor is now back home in La’ie recovering -- we’re behind you, Matt!

Noted big wave surfing champion and musical talent Makua Rothman donated his time among others like pro longboarders Kapono Nahina and Kekoa Uemura and over $8000 was raised and given to the Armed Services YMCA and another $8000 to Marine Recon Foundation.

Good food, leads to good deeds for good causes, for good people. If you'd like to get involved next year or find out more info contact Paul Chinen at paul@chinenmarketinggroup.com.

Cliff Kapono gets hurt in West Pacific, campaigns for travel insurance On a strike mission to the remote west Pacific Ocean, scientist and Big Island surfer Cliff Kapono suffered a terrifying wipeout, hitting the reef so hard he thought he’d broken his neck, according to Magicseaweed’s Matthew Rott, who was with him at the time. Even as he lay on that remote island awaiting air evac with a preliminary diagnosis of multiple fractures in the cervical spine, Rott recalled in an article that Kapono turned to him and suddenly said, “You know, obviously we don’t ever want anyone to get hurt—but if someone had to, I’m sure glad it was me.”

Kapono, who thankfully was released from the hospital with his neck intact (albeit wearing a burst eardrum and badly lacerated head on the flight home), used the incident to raise awareness about the importance of having travel insurance before every major surf trip. The $35 yearlong insurance package Kapono had purchased from Diver’s Alert Network covered over $200,000 in medical expenses resulting from the injury. Live like Cliff: travel far and travel smart.

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I N D USTRY NOTES Brissa Henessy qualifies for WSL Womens Tour Costa Rica-born and Oahu-raised Rip Curl surfer Brissa Hennessy, 19, has qualified for the 2019 WSL Women’s World Tour after a solid semi-final performance at the Port Stephens Toyota Pro that bumped up her ranking to 7th on the QS. “No words can describe how I feel, this is a dream come true," Hennessy said. "There are so many people I need to thank that have helped me along the way, I just don't know where to start. This is my best result all year, so I when I was eliminated in the Semifinals it was kind of bittersweet as I wasn't sure I had done enough to qualify.” You sure did, Brissa -- Congratulations from all of us at Freesurf!

Nico’s Restaurant opens in Kailua Nico’s, Hawaii’s premier seafood restaurant, opened its doors on November 3rd at their second location in the heart of Kailua.

Known for their locally-inspired dishes using fresh seasonal produce sourced from farmers and fish from local long-liners, Nico’s Kailua also has a grab-n-go corner for those looking to pick up some fresh fare for the day at the beach. You can find the new location at 970 N. Kalaheo Ave. in Kailua, open from 11am to 9pm daily.

Adam “Biff” D’Espesito Garrett McNamara on 60 minutes In early November, CBS featured the North Shore’s own Garrett McNamara for a thought-provoking conversation with Anderson Cooper about big wave surfing. The special focused on the monstrous wave the pummels the lighthouse in Nazare every winter, and there’s no better person to ask about that break than Garrett, who set a world record there in 2011 for riding an unthinkable 78-foot wave. Asked to describe what big wave surfing is like, McNamara told Cooper, “ A lot of us have snowboarded or skied. Just imagine hitting some ice, maybe some moguls, and then imagine an avalanche coming down after you. Then imagine not trying to run away from it, trying to stay as close as possible to it the whole time, and have it chasing you and now the mountain’s moving -- not just the avalanche, but the whole mountain is moving. That’s what it’s like riding these giant waves.”

Sheldon Paishon joins Rip Curl A product of Oahu’s beautiful West Side who fine-tuned his skills on the North Shore’s proving grounds, Sheldon Paishon can now count good friend and mentor Mason Ho as a teammate with his recent signing the Rip Curl team. The two friends have also been hard at work on Shel-Doggy’s first movie, “Through the Doggy Door,” coming out soon. Congratulations Sheldon!

39-year-old North County surfer Adam Francis Kennedy D’Esposito, a.k.a. “Biff,” went missing in Mexico in midSeptember after being last seen in Baja Malibu, a destination he frequented often. His body was located in late September by a close family friend who went to search for him after he went missing. Known around the surfing world as a hard-charging, very charismatic person with a huge heart and deep love for surfing, Biff would be seen in the line ups of Tahiti, California, and Mexico just to name a few.

The cause of death was ruled accidental after an autopsy showed signs of drowning.

Our sincerest condolences and thoughts go out to his daughter 6-year-old daughter and the entire D’Esposito family.

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