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VOLCOM PIPE PRO A L A’ I A TA L K S T O R Y /J O S H M O N I Z Takayuki Wakita Photo: Keoki

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Deep from the roots of Hawaiian surfing Ulu Napeahi and Ha’a Aikau playfully share a wave on a dreamy winter day on the north shore of Oahu.

Photo: Christa Funk

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04 Free Parking 10 Editor’s Note 14 Rewind 16 By the Numbers 18 How To 22 Giving 40 Aperture 56 Surf Art 60 Environment 64 Industry Notes

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new Smoothies to-go pack walk in or order online at jambajuicehawaii.com/catering jambahawaii.com

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Rosie Jaffurs

Photo: Keoki

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2018 Volcom Pipe Pro

Culturally Speaking: Going Righteousness

Latronic

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Keoki

F E A T U R E S

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QueensMarketPlace.net

Talk Story / Josh Moniz

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EDITOR’S NOTE

By Tony Heff

Right about the time Josh Moniz was being crowned Volcom Pipe Pro champion, it donned on me that another winter season is coming to a close. The contests, the crowds, the swells all will fade into spring and the North Pacific will quietly go to sleep. It's as sure a thing as any. You can count on it. And in years past, you could say next year we'll do it all over again. But as state permitting rules seem to change the contest season as we know it, it remains yet to be seen what will become of the surf scene in Hawai'i, and more specifically, on the North Shore.

Change is inevitable. And while most of us agree with the old saying, we also know that at times, that is easier said than done. In the ten years I've had the privilege to be on staff with Freesurf Magazine, much has changed in the world, and in our backyard, yet so much remains the same. No matter what president we have in office, or who is putting on a surf event, you can't stop the north-west swells from gracing the Hawaiian coastline with immaculate surf. A spectacle that has been here before we were and will continue after we are gone. And just as you can imagine Hawai'i hundreds of years ago, there remains today, Hawaiians who practice the timeless tradition of riding waves, like Ulu Napeahi freely

gliding along on his ala'ia. Former editor of Freesurf and long time contributing writer Daniel Ito brings you an enlightening story on the history of the ala'ia in our feature on page 34.

As with all changes there comes newness. As the new year kicks into gear, and the WSL 2018 competitive tour sets into motion with its future unknown, I calm reassurance comes to mind, that no matter what happens, Hawai'i is going to be just fine. The land and the people will continue to thrive and the ocean will continue to bless.

And with no shortage of inspiration, all of us at Freesurf will continue to document and share our love of surfing.

JOSH MONIZ 2018 VOLCOM PIPE PRO QS3000 CHAMPION

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Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

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The North Pacific goes big in January with massive waves slamming into the coast of Hawaii and California. Being the first solid swell of the season outside of a contest window, Peahi saw what seemed to be record crowds in the lineup, as well as the biggest swell of the year on January 14, with the likes of Oahu's big wave paddle record holder Aaron Gold, and Brazilian charger Lucas Chianca stroking into some monster waves, as well as Big wave hellman Makua Rothman and Kai Lenny towing into some of the bigger sets of the day.

Aaron Gold

Kai Lenny is making waves again online. 11 in a row to be exact. The illustrious multi-sport waterman's latest edit displays his supreme aquatic abilities with a seamless hydrofoil ride of 11 waves for a leg burning 6 minutes long. You can find it on his YouTube channel: Kai Lenny.

Keoki

Kai Lenny

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(In case you missed it)

Shane Dorian's Keiki Classic took place on the Big Island. A can of food was all that was needed as an entry fee and the kids were treated with shave ice, an array of prizes and a clean empty banyan's lefts and rights. Diego Ferri took top spot in the 13 and unders, Trae Tanoa claimed first in the jr boys 14-17, and Sophia Carlucci claimed the girls 13 and under. Yet the most prestigious honor at the Keiki Classic is the Sportsmanship Award, given to the kid who best exemplifies the aloha spirit throughout the event. This year, that honor went to 14-year-old Luke Heflin, who took home a brand-new custom surfboard along with an invite from Kelly Slater himself, to visit the Surf Ranch in California.

Nathan Florence

January loves pipeline, as more "Oneill Wave Of The Winter" entries came in that month than in December and November combined. Rides by Kala Grace, Ola Eleogram, Jamie Obrien, Keito Matsuoka and Nathan Florence rose above the rest as the top 5 rides of the month. The contest dishes out a cool $25,000 to the winner and runs through February and the top rides from each month will be judged by a panel of Judges including Gerry Lopez, Shane Dorian, Pancho Sullivan, and Shawn Briley.

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Billy Kemper's love for Sunset pays off as he claims another victory at the WSL Sunset Open. The Maui native edged out a field of 112 competitors all the way to a nail biter of a final where Kemper was able to claim victory over the all Hawaiian final including Ian Walsh, Barron Mamiya, and Ian Gentil, who finished runner-up a mere 0.24 points shy of the win. The Sunset Open is the first of the WSL Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui Region 2018 season, and gives Kemper a lead on the rankings.

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N U M B E R S

83% of CO2 emissions is from the production of food, especially the meat industry.

11% of CO2 emissions is from transportation.

The equivalent of 1000 miles of greenhouse gas can be potentially saved by eating locally grown food.

There is 30-50% less energy used during production of organic food.

In 2010, 275 metric tons of plastic waste was generated by 192 coastal countries with estimated somewhere between 4.8 to 12.7 million metric tons entering the ocean. On average, 8 million metric tons of plastic ends up in our oceans every year.

One metric ton equals 2205 pounds. By 2025, if this trend continues, the ocean could have as much as 155 million metric tons of cumulative plastic. That’s over 341 billion pounds of plastic floating without a purpose.

500 billion plastic bags used worldwide, 1 million every minute.

BY THE NUMBERS: YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT

By Mike Chlala

As surfers we are fortunate enough to have a unique and intimate relationship with the environment. Most of us spend our days keenly aware of our surroundings, constantly paying attention to the weather and the surf, as that in turn pertains to how we end up living our lives. The relationship we build with the ocean isn’t like any other relationship we can form and it will come with a unique set of responsibilities.

Living on an island we heavily rely on the health and well being of our oceans and environment in order maintain our own health and well being and continue to chase our passions. However, as we go about our daily lives we are leaving a trail behind us that can reveal to us some of the real consequences of our consumption. This consumption can actually be measured by calculating our carbon footprint. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, the government agency whose mission claims responsibility to, “protect human health and the environment”, our carbon footprint is defined as, “The total amount of greenhouse gases that are emitted into the atmosphere each year by a person, family, building, organization, or company.”

Greenhouse gases have become a major concern on the topic of climate change and our carbon footprint can help us read the story. If you log on to the EPA’s website, epa. gov and search for the Carbon Footprint Calculator you can estimate your own carbon footprint for the entire year. From our surfboard, to our phone, to the food we eat and the supply chain it takes to keep it all going, we’re releasing greenhouse gases and throwing away plastic at a rate that should make us stop and think. Here’s a few numbers to consider.

6 times more water is needed in the production of bottled water than is actually in the container.

In 2014 100.7 billion plastic beverage bottles were sold in the U.S. Virtually 100% of plastic ever created is still somewhere.

In Hawaii, 20% of our food is locally grown, and 80% is imported.

In 2015 Hawaii ranked 48th overall in energy consumption in the US. Locally, and globally it’s the responsibility of each one of us to take care of our surroundings. It’s thanks to organizations like Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii who passionately raise awareness, clean our beaches, and physically divert, compost, and properly discard our waste. According to the Sustainable Coastlines, The Vans Triple Crown year end report for 2017, was that 70% of the waste from the event was diverted! When broken down even further 4,790 pounds of waste was collected and diverted collectively between all three events, with around 3,000 pounds coming from the Pipe Masters alone. However, the impact they can’t measure is the amount of education and awareness that goes out to thousands of people both on the beach and watching online.

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HOW TO: FALL AT PIPE

By Kyveli Diener Photos: Keoki

Frequenting the waves at Pipeline in large or playful surf will inevitably lead to a collision with the reef. Whether this results in a flesh wound or broken bones, or worse, seems largely based on luck. Yet if you asked mosts pipe specialists, they’ll likely tell you that there is an art to falling on a wave. To get a few pointers on how to minimize damage at the North Shore’s proving ground, we sat down with a man who can be found comfortably inside the barrel any day the Banzai Pipeline comes alive and who conveniently lives on the shore overlooking the historic break: Mr. Surf and Destroy himself, Kai Mana Henry.

A native of Haiku on Maui’s North Shore, Henry first surfed Pipe when he was just 12 years old, recalling, “I remember just tripping out on how much it barreled.” Though he grew up surfing the challenging waves at Ho’okipa, Kai Mana said there’s truly nothing that can prepare you to surf Pipe except just getting out there and doing it, and that’s the one thing that can also prepare you to survive its vicious takedowns.

“I don’t think getting fit has anything to do with surfing Pipeline. I think it’s putting your time in out here and knowing your lineups and which waves to go on, and who not to drop in on,” he said with a laugh (hint: do not drop in on Kai Mana). “It’s a pretty dog eat dog world out there, so you just kind of take what you can get and if you put in your time you’re going to eventually get some good waves.”

Not only is no one exempt from a wipeout at Pipe and Backdoor, but every injury imaginable is also on the table, Henry said, explaining, “Anything could happen: you could twist your ankle, you could break a finger, it’s all just how you fall and depends on how big the waves are. It’s all a variety.”

Like many of Hawaii’s most legendary spots, the crown wave of the Seven Mile Miracle is one of those waves where you have to be okay with taking a beating and then paddling out for more. While you can never truly prepare for a wipeout there, a few big tips did emerge in our conversation with Kai Mana.

Protect the Head “Every day you kind of have a bad wipeout out there,” Henry explained. “Just the other day I had one where I fell and by instinct 18

I just put my hand up by my face, and as soon as I did that my hand hit the reef. It could happen so quick at any time, you just have to be aware…knowing little techniques when you fall, like covering your head and knowing where the bottom is, that always kind of helps me out.”

Another legend of Pipe, Japanese daredevil Takayuki Wakita, has been wearing a helmet every time he surfs out there since he was a teenager. His daughter Sara recently recounted a story where her dad went down, hit his head, and came up alive, but with his helmet completely cracked in half. She said that was the day he fully committed to wearing head gear out there, no matter what. Kai Mana agreed that a helmet is a great call at Pipe, but ultimately it’s a personal choice based on individual preference.

“If you’ve got some headgear on and you hit your head it’s probably going to help you out, so I think it’s a good idea,” he said. “It’s just preference: if you think you need it, you’ll use it, and if you don’t think you need it, you’re not going to use it.”

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To become and adept barrel rider like Kaimana Henry you have to deal with the inevitable consequence of falling.

How to fall goes hand in hand with how to not fall.

Ditch the Board As if the razor-sharp reef below the wave isn’t enough, Henry said, “I see a lot of cuts out here from boards hitting them in the face or leg or whatever.” So if you go down at Pipe, always remember: a busted stick is way less painful than a busted face.

“For sure you want to get away from your surfboard because it’s doing a bunch of crazy flips and turns and stuff when it’s under the water,” Henry said. “Your fins are pretty sharp and your nose is pretty sharp, so you definitely don’t want to get hit by those.”

Know the Reef While Kai Mana admits that “you can never really know what’s going on down there,” knowing the topography of the reef at

Ehukai Beach Pearl — where the cracks are, where the sand is, and how much water you have beneath you — is crucial to knowing how and where to enter the water. While pencil diving feet first “sometimes gets you out the back quicker,” Henry said, it’s not always the right way to penetrate the wave depending on your location, the wave size that day, and most importantly the tide, which can add or subtract about two and a half feet of water beneath your board.

“Obviously you want to be out there when there’s a little more water on the reef,” Henry said.

“It could be low tide without big waves — it doesn’t really determine how big the wave is how much water’s on the reef, but definitely high tide is going to have a little more water on the reef than low tide.”

Part of getting familiar with the wave is knowing it’s widely varying sections, and what could help you or hurt you if things go wrong.

“If you’re surfing Gums and the sandbar up there it’s always kind of cool knowing there’s sand below you and not dry reef, but even between Backdoor and Off the Wall there’s a little break in the reef that you can sometimes get out of there because it’s kind of deeper right there,” Henry said. “There’s not many cracks in the reef, but sometimes you can find them.”

Look Out for One Another Dusty Payne, who recently suffered a horrifying wipeout at Backdoor on January 8 brings a stark reminder of the harsh

consequences of surfing pipeline and is alive today because of quick response from a group of people including Keoki Saguibo, Ulualoha Napeahi, and Mikey “Redd” O’Shaughnessy. When they noticed he didn’t surface after falling on a heavy wave they took action. Kai Mana said this needs to always be the attitude of every surfer out in Pipe’s crowded lineup, whether the person who went down is your best friend or a total stranger.

“Even if you don’t know somebody, I think it’s key to keep an eye on people if they take a bad wipeout because even though you don’t even know that person you can help them out of a bad situation, whether he lost his board or he lost his life. We all kind of look out for each other.”

C H A R I T I E S

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NA KAMA KAI Words and Photos by Keoki

If there was a guide book on how to live right by taking care of what takes care you, do you think it would be as beneficial, as let’s say the “Bible” for example? Perhaps not to that extent but growing up here in Hawaii, I have read countless library books on how to care for the land, mountains, rivers, and most importantly the oceans. I could envision what needed to be done and the outcome it would play on our environment but never had the hands on experience to see and learn from it.

If only there was an organization like we have today in Na Kama Kai. Duane DeSoto, is a world longboard champion, waterman, father, mentor, and founder and CEO of Na Kama Kai. Hailing from Oahu’s west side, Desoto runs this nonprofit that teaches youth about ocean safety and awareness, Hawai’ian values and culture, and environment education. Their mission is simple. To teach the youth malama ‘aina, and malama kai (stewardship of the land and

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sea). They believe it is essential to establish a direct connection with the ocean and nature to and influence the next generation to embrace their kuleana (responsibility) so that they can make better choices as future leaders and business owners.

With the help of volunteers from around the islands, including surfing professionals, the Hokuleia crew, organizations such as sustainable coastlines, Kids Hurt Too, and many more, Na Kama Kai invests time in children from ages 2-18, holding ocean safety clinics every month around the island of Oahu and also Alaka’i Mentorship Program,

a program for those children who want to deepen the understanding and awareness of what it is to be a good steward of the land and sea. “We teach keiki (children) to be stewards of the ‘aina, to malama ‘aina, but also to malama themselves,” Desoto says. Planting this seed of knowledge during childhood gives the individual a basis on how to take care of themselves, their families, their community, and the world beyond. But

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Duane also says, “The main goal for Na Kama Kai isn’t just for Hawaii, even though we want to take care of Hawaii first, but to to share the knowledge with other world programs and to create synergies.”

I was happy to experience Na Kama Kai during the WSL Hawaiian Pro this season and seen the impact it had on our children, including my own. From the first lesson, which was teaching the children the proper terms of ocean conditions to ending with, how to leave the beach better than you found it, the children were full of excitement and wonder. They could see how they belonged to something bigger and that that was something they could have a positive effect on for their future. You can read more about how to get involved at nakamakai.org U P C O M I N G

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C L I N I C S :

March 11th – Kahana Bay Beach Park April 8th – Poka’i Bay Beach Park May 13th – ‘Ewa Beach Park June 10th – Waimanalo Beach Park July 8th – Hale’iwa Beach Park August 12th – Waikiki (Publics) August 25-26th – Matson Menehune/Duke’s Fest Waikiki September 9th – Kahana Bay Beach Park September 22nd – Makua Beach Cleanup October 6th – 7th Annual Pa’akai Gala October 14th – Poka’i Bay Beach Park November 11th – ‘Ewa Beach Park November 17th – Hale’iwa Beach Park (WSL) November 23-25th – NKK Surf Kontest, 96792 Keiki Only December 9th – Kailua Beach Park

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VOLCOM PIPE PRO

By Kyveli Diener

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2018

The Volcom Pipe Pro has been widely touted as the best professional surfing event on Oahu’s North Shore, and with good reason.

The late January / early February window all but guarantees the best possible conditions at the Proving Grounds of Pipeline, whether the waves come in three times overhead with their teeth bared or head-high with wide open, square barrels. It’s also the best event to showcase Hawaii’s homegrown talent.

This year, that door was opened even wider when the competitive field was expanded from 112 surfers to 144, nearly half representing Hawaii. Poetically and understandably, the top two spots went to North Shore boys, with prodigal son Josh Moniz ultimately adding his name to the prestigious list of past winners such as John John Florence and Kelly Slater.

Join us as we look back on five widely varying and impossibly exciting days at the Banzai Pipeline for the 2018 Volcom Pipe Pro.

DAY ONE: January 30 Conditions: 4-6+ ft, N swell, light easterly winds The opening day of the QS 3,000 event was a tricky call for event organizers. The decreasing north swell and trade winds made for smaller waves and elusive barrel opportunities, and the contest was ultimately called off for the day around noon after just four hours of competition.

Of the ten heats run on that opening day, every competitor to advance was Hawaiian with the exceptions of South African Matthew McGillivray, USA’s John Mel and Elliot Napias from Tahiti. Big Wave Tour competitors Ian Walsh, Kai Lenny and Makuakai Rothman flexed their prowess in waves of all sizes alongside esteemed locals like Sunny Garcia, Ulualoha “Uluboi” Napeahi, Kalani David, and Jason Shibata.

DAY TWO: February 1 Conditions: 4-6 ft (8+ ft. faces), WNW swell, S offshore winds After a day off allowed the new WNW swell to manifest, the stage was set for what would be a practically ideal day for local talent to dominate. First, World Junior Champion Finn McGill earned the first perfect 10 of

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Later, Jamie O’Brien snuck into the event after winning the intensely competitive, eight-man, half-hour Volcom Last Chance Qualifier heat. Held between the end of Round 2 and the first three heats of Round 3, O’Brien surfed a near-perfect heat without priority in double-overhead sets against Hawaiian legends like Gavin Beschen, Dave Wassel, Kalani Chapman, Jonah Morgan Takayuki Wakita, and former World Champion and Pipeline Master Derek Ho, who continuously exploded out of waves with a wall of spray and always managed to be in the perfect spot, reminding the crowded beach of the talent that earned him the first Hawaiian World Title back in 1993.

Keoki

the contest in the ninth heat of the day, disappearing completely into an impossiblelooking Backdoor tube with less than a minute left on the heat clock, then shooting out with the spit at top speed.

Josh Moniz

DAY THREE: February 2 Conditions: 6-8 ft. (12+ ft. faces), WNW swell, S offshore winds Another perfect day of barreling surf and offshore winds saw the rest of Round 3 completed along with the first six heats of Round 4. Along with Kauai’s Koa Smith, one of the standouts of the day was Australia’s Jack Robinson. Proving that he had unlocked Pipe’s rhythm or the day, Robinson sailed through his heats, vanishing into hollow barrels at both Pipe and Backdoor before reappearing with almost too much ease.

But the champion of the day was the affable Cam Richards of South Carolina, who scored the second perfect 10 of the event in the third heat of Round 4. By that time the waves had settled into a perfect, pumping consistency that allowed the goofy-foot to pop up on seven waves with two impeccable, deep Backdoor barrels as his keepers, first scoring a 9.83 with a critical drop into a clean backhand tube ride and then, just

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two minute later, cruising through another massive Backdoor offering so speedy and stylish that all five judges threw him a 10.

As the horn sounded to conclude the day and the lineup at Pipe went from four competitors to easily 100 frothing surfers in under a minute, conversations on the beach and in the houses all turned to one topic: the incoming swell, and how terrifying the next day would be.

DAY FOUR: February 3 Conditions: 12-15 ft. (18-20 ft. faces), WNW swell, S offshore winds As expected, the fourth day of the contest was the stuff of nightmares. And with many Championship Tour names hitting the lineup — including John John Florence, the most winningest surfer in Volcom Pipe Pro history — it proved to be a day of jaw-dropping upsets.

Wiggoly Dantas

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While local Pipeline professionals Seth Moniz and Koa Rothman were also taken down by the sketchy conditions, Finn McGill survived Round 4, as did Mason Ho and last year’s champion Soli Bailey. But the wave of the day went to South Shore Oahu’s Ezekiel Lau, who found victory at sea with an inside drainer.

Lau’s critical positioning put him in the perfect

Keoki

With howling offshore winds and a monstrous incoming swell that feathered all the way to Third Reef, wave faces stood consistently well over 15 ft and the barrels rapidly filled with churning whitewater. The unruly conditions would ultimately be the downfall of elite surfers like Leonardo Fioravanti and Kauai native Sebastian Zeitz. The other CT upset of the day was none other than the current world champ John John Florence, eliminated

by Australia’s Noa Deane. Opportunities were so chronically difficult to find that Deane’s winning waves were paltry scores of 5.53 and 0.97.

Jamie O’Brien

spot for a wave that was twice overhead even on his tall frame. He vanished in the swirling whitewater, and emerged from a the barrel well after everyone had given up on him.

The contest was later called off for that day as conditions continued to deteriorate.

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DAY FIVE: February 4 Conditions: 8-10 ft. (15 ft. faces), WNW swell, light S winds The day after the monster swell was Super Bowl Sunday, but along the epic stretch of beach at Pipeline, the perfect cylinders churning across the reef groomed by offshore winds stole the show. With just Round 5 and the finals left to run, everyone gathered at the beach knowing it would be a historic day. But no one could have predicted the fireworks that lay ahead, including the third perfect 10 of the contest, netted by Costa Rican Carlos Munoz near the end of the Round of 32 with a dazzling, lengthy Backdoor tube.

In the Quarterfinals, Jack Robinson’s good fortune ran out. Adding to the multitude of snapped boards from the weekend, the Australian broke two boards in one halfhour heat. With no caddy in the water, he had to make his way back to shore twice, greeted by his dad bearing a backup blade.

Though Robinson lost the heat, he was ultimately awarded the notable Todd Chesser Hard Charger Award for his fearlessness throughout the event.

Cam Richards

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the local boys were more than happy to step right in. After Moniz took an early lead, O’Brien, having already dropped a mid-range 7 on one Pipeline barrel early the heat, made it clear he wanted his second Volcom Pipe victory. Perfectly positioned and without priority, Jamie navigated a critical drop and screeching stall to bury himself in a Pipeline pit on a double overhead screamer. The beach roared as the nose of his board played peek-a-boo with the front of the barrel, and when O’Brien ultimately burst out of the tube it was with both fists pumping high in the air. The judges rewarded the lion display with the fourth and final perfect 10 of the contest. Seizing history, Moniz quickly answered back with another excellent score to regain the lead before the ocean went flat.

By Semifinals, only two Hawaiians out of over 50 original local contenders were left standing: Josh Moniz and Jamie O’Brien. They both posted excellent scores in their semifinal heats, rivaled only by Cam Richards’ near perfection in his semifinal heat. The three top scorers were joined by the Brazilian Wessely Dantas, not-so-little younger brother of former CT charger Wiggoly.

The crowd held their breath as the final minutes ticked away, and when another opportunity for O’Brien never came the momentous victory when to Josh Moniz, who called it the high point of his five years on the Qualifying Series.

“100 percent this is the best win of my professional career,” Moniz said. “The only win that will get better is a Pipe Masters, so hopefully down the line I can do one of those. But for now, this is by far the greatest win. I’m going to remember this forever.”

The mostly-underdog final was a full-on, nonstop barrel fest. Pristine conditions left the door wide open at both Pipe and Backdoor, and

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Culturally Speaking: Going Righteousness

By Daniel Ikaika Ito Photos: Keoki

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here is a feeling of pono (righteousness) you experience when you see Ulualoha Napeahi on an Ahuna Hana alai‘a. The 21-year-old pro surfer, affectionately called Ulu Boy, feels it, too.

“As a Native Hawaiian,” explains Ulu Boy, “you know when it feels right, and when I’m riding the alai‘a everything feels right; everything seems to be exactly what it needs to be; nothing could change to get any better.”

According to Hawaiian cultural practitioner Tom Pohaku Stone, who has college degrees in Hawaiian Studies, Pacific Island Studies, American Studies, and Historic Preservation, the surfing industry has been mispronouncing the craft that Ulu is riding, for quite some time. In 2009, Surfing Magazine named Tom Wegener Shaper of the Year for starting the alai’a revolution, but Wegener and the mainstream surf industry called the finless wooden board an ah-lie-ah.

This is not pono for two reasons: first off, ‘alai’a’ should be pronounced as ah–la–ee-ah because the ancient Hawaiians were describing the way the board moved on the wave, says Pohaku. In the Hawaiian language ‘ala’ means ‘to rise up’ and ‘i‘a’ means ‘fish’, so the board was observed to be like ‘a fish rising out of the water’.

Secondly, Pohaku started making replicas of the ancient Hawaiians’ surfboards years before Wegener had the idea, so the notion that the California transplant who moved to Australia revived a Hawaiian practice is also not pono.

But when Ulu Boy is high-lining across an open face of a head high left at Rocky Point or pulling in to Pipe on the alai‘a, cultural appropriateness feels like it’s being restored. Perhaps the reason he looks so good on the traditional Hawaiian finless shortboard is because the goofy foot is a ‘Kanaka Maoli’ (Native Hawaiian). Surfing is in Ulu’s DNA. “For me, riding the alai‘a is a more cultural and spiritual connection and that is where I feel most connected to my roots,” says Ulu. “Particularly riding that [Ahuna Hana] board; I enjoy riding that board more than any other board.”

Ulu’s alai‘a is 6’1” x 17” x ¾” with a single concave running through the back, beveled rails and nose rocker.

It was made by Hawai’i County lifeguard Brandon Ahuna under his Ahuna Hana label and it’s made of Paulownia and Ulu (Breadfruit) wood.

“Paulownia is really light and strong for how light it is. It flexes really good and it naturally doesn’t absorb saltwater,” says Ahuna. “I incorporated some ulu wood just for added strength on his tailblock and his inlay. Of course his name is Ulualoha so I figured ulu would be nice. I usually use koa.”

Ahuna and Ulu Boy are both from Hawai‘i Island and the shaper has known the pro surfer since he was a grom.

“The kid had a sparkle in him ever since he was small,” reminisces Ahuna. “Good head on his shoulders and

confident, but soft spoken. Watching him surf you know that if you follow your dreams you can make it happen.”

For Ahuna, who is an excellent surfer in his own right, riding the alai‘a is also a connection to his culture.

It’s a way for him to tap into the nature of surfing’s ancestors. pau

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Tai VanDyke Photo: Kai Mana Henry

Nathan Florence Photo: Tony Heff

Ezekiel Lau Photo: Keoki

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JO SH M ONIZ

By Chris Latronic

The Moniz family is unlike any other. Talented in all aspects of life, they excel most in ocean sports,specifically surfing. In the middle of this legendary ohana lies the young Josh Moniz. I’ve known the Moniz family most of my life and remember multiple instances where Uncle Tony Moniz would bring keiki-sized Josh, Seth, Isaiah, Micah, and Kelia out to the North Shore to surf, and even in their small forms everyone could see glimpses of prophesied greatness in each of them.

Unlike young Seth, who pretty much kept the same body frame since his childhood (just added mass), Josh was slightly more on the ‘plump’ side, like a ‘mini-me’ version of Tony Moniz at peak ‘dad-bod’. But that didn’t matter to the ever-smiling Joshy, who was always sitting deeper than his brothers as he tried to charm waves off the local regulars (including me). This attitude in the lineup seemed to carry over to his adolescence and adulthood as he began to transition to a professional run at competitive surfing.

Through all the ups and downs, Josh kept battling through adversity and the ranks of surfing’s top juniors and elites, even taking gold medal honors in the under 18 division at the ISA World Surfing Championships as a searing underdog in Nicaragua. Now ascended from the junior ranks, Josh Moniz is on the hunt for bigger surfing accolades, beginning with this year’s first consequential Qualifying Series contest, the Volcom Pipe Pro. In doing so, he’s made history.

We were fortunate to catch up with the newly crowned Volcom Pipe Pro champion fresh off the biggest win of his career about how he gave away the final...but still got to keep it.

Chris Latronic: So Josh, I’ve watched you grow up from a kid to a man, how’s life as a 21-year-old pro surfer?

Josh Moniz: It’s great. I always dreamed of this time, being older and on the road, and it’s exactly what I thought pro surfing would be. A lot of good times, a lot of traveling with my friends, and just enjoying all the benefits we get from surfing new places and seeing new locations every year.

CL: How long have you been traveling around and doing the QS (WSL Qualifying Series)?

JM: I’ve been traveling around and doing the QS now for about three years. I’ve kinda only been taking it seriously for the last two years. This is my second full year of really going for it and wanting to compete at this level.

CL: What is it like to be chasing results on tour and what were some of your other standout performances on the QS? JM: Chasing events around the world is pretty rough. The QS is nothing like how the Volcom [Pipe Pro] went for me, (laughs) especially wave-wise. We surf pretty below average waves where a lot of these events are held. My past best results have been [from] my first year on the road - I won a QS 3,000 in Martinique which was for sure my biggest win prior to the Volcom Pipe Pro. Besides that, I just had a

couple good showings. In South Africa [Ballito Pro] I got 9th, and last year in Australia [Australian Open] I got 5th. But I had kind of a bumpy road. I’d do really well in an event, and then have a run of bad events, so It’s been pretty up and down.

CL: Tell me about the win in Martinique - what made that special?

JM: My win in Martinique came really quick. That was actually my first event I went on by myself on the road. I was pretty surprised. It was a great event, the waves were pumping. Besides the Volcom Pro, those were the best waves I had surfed in an event. It’s this long right hand point break. That was a great event for me. The win just kinda happened naturally. Everything was just going my way; I was getting great waves and it was a fun event. I still can’t believe I won that young, out on the road by myself in a random country. I somehow just put it all together.

CL: What kind of training do you do to prepare, and how has it changed from that first event to what you’re doing now and before the Volcom Pro? JM: Yeah, my training has done a full 180-turn from when I first jumped on the QS to now (laughs). When I first jumped on, I was doing whatever, I [was] waking up whenever I wanted to. I had no responsibilities, no one telling me to do anything. I was pretty much cruising, (laughs); pretty much what you’d picture a surfer doing. Just

surfing whenever I wanted to surf, not training, just out there on the road thinking I was going to be able to just compete with everyone but that definitely didn’t happen (laughs). I had a long learning experience. Now I train a lot with Darrin Yap at Tactical Strength and Conditioning. I train a lot with my younger brother Seth and Ezekiel Lau. [Darrin] has been taking us under his wing and pushing us and pretty much teaching us that you can’t just show up at these events and think you’re going to do well, because that’s not how it works anymore. It’s been fun the last couple years of training and learning a lot. It’s been a great learning experience for me, for sure.

because I’m regular foot and it’s easier for me to find the waves. I love going left though. That’s what it’s all about at Pipe - getting big barrels on the left. That was actually my goal this winter, was to stop going right as much and find some lefts.

CL: How did that [training] prepare you and what was your mindset going into the Volcom Pipe Pro?

JM: Yeah, being in the final with Jamie was crazy. At the start of the heat, I knew he’d want pole position since we were all the younger boys in the final. I knew he wasn’t going to give us his inside. So I let him get his wave, which you should probably never let Jamie do, (laughs) but I gave him that respect. He got a seven point ride, came right back out and backed it up with a five. After he did that I thought, ‘Oh no. He has his momentum right now and I don’t even have a wave.’ So I just realized I had to stop thinking about him immediately and just focus on what I’m doing. I held priority for a while, like 10 minutes or 11 minutes and didn’t catch a wave. Then I got my first eight [point ride]. It was just a perfect Pipe wave and pretty easy. I just knew I had to get to the bottom, start pumping, and get out before it didn’t let me. I paddled back out and backed it up quickly with a six and then had the lead. Paddling back out, I had last priority and I knew Jamie needed a pretty good score at that point, like a seven or an eight. Then a set came and everyone caught waves, so I ended up out there with first priority and that’s when I started panicking (laughs). I was just thinking, ‘Oh my god, I’m leading and could win this contest, and Jamie is in it, and the waves are firing!’ I kept thinking I just have to stay in the moment, but I was so far away from there. But I definitely knew I didn’t have it in the bag yet because Jamie is a freak out there, I mean, he’s the best. I just started overthinking things. I saw the wave come in, I paddled for it, and I honestly don’t even remember how it happened but I saw Jamie there kicking for it and the next thing I knew the wave was gone. I knew the wave was good, and as soon as he stood up my mind just went blank. I was like, ‘Wow, I just gave Jamie the final. I had it and I just gave it to him,’ and was sitting there, baffled.

I thought he put me into combo-land, but he didn’t and when they announced that I just needed another eight, I thought, ‘The waves are so good. I’m definitely going to get another shot at that.’ So I told myself to stop thinking of the huge mistake I just made and not to worry about what Jamie just did. I just needed to get another wave, grab my rail and pull

JM: Honestly, I wasn’t super focused on winning this event. I was watching my little brother (Seth) the week before in the Backdoor Shootout and he was just getting the craziest waves so I was like, ‘I don’t care about winning or anything, I just want to get good waves and get barreled.’ That’s all I cared about.

CL: Tell me about the conditions that day and a little about the heats leading up to the final.

JM: Actually, I struggled in my first couple of heats because I’ve never surfed waves that good in a contest and it was just messing with my head so much. I was freaked out thinking I could get my best barrels ever at Pipe and Backdoor right now and that’s all I could think of.

I paddled over a couple waves, just overthinking things and doing things I normally wouldn’t do. I got pretty lucky in my first couple of heats, just squeaking by and only towards the semifinals did I realize I needed to just surf. I knew what I needed to do, I’ve done it a hundred times freesurfing out there. But it was the craziest feeling being in an event at pipeline when the waves were that perfect. It was the first time I had offshore heats at Pipe and everything was just perfect. It was the perfect day.

CL: That’s cool to hear you didn’t have heavy expectations going into the Volcom Pipe Pro, but as you progressed beyond the semifinals, how did your perspective change?

JM: Yeah, my perspective definitely changed as I got deeper into the event. Once they blew the horn for my semifinal heat, I thought, ‘Whoa. I have a shot at winning this,’ and that’s when I started focusing on trying to win.

I didn’t really change my gameplan up or anything in the final. But to win at Pipe going left was big for me. A lot of times I go right just

CL: It definitely paid off! Let’s talk about about the priority situation in the final. You had priority when Jamie O’Brien got his 10 point ride.

You pretty much gave him that 10. I actually saw you paddle for it. Did you think you weren’t in position, or what happened? Walk us through that heat.

in. Luckily, I did that. And it was crazy because all day long there were multiple wave sets coming in and that one set that came in, it was just one wave. When I took off I wasn’t even sure if that was going to be the score but I had to go. I don’t even remember what the barrel looked like. It was just spitting and I was holding on and thought I was just going to hold on and stall as long as I can until the wave lets me out because that’s the only way I’m going to get the score. Next thing I knew I just shot out of the barrel. All of the sudden I was in the lead again. After that, the energy of the water just kind of died. It was weird. Even when I paddled back out and there [were] a couple minutes left, I just had a feeling nothing else was going to come. It just felt like it turned off and I was like, ‘Whoa, I think I just got the last wave.’

CL: But Jamie had priority those last few minutes, yeah? What were those last two minutes like?

JM: Oh, those last two minutes were the slowest seconds I’ve ever seen (laughs). I actually wasn’t too freaked out because I did everything I could do that I had control of. I figured if another wave came and he (Jamie) got it, then good on him, he deserved it. So I just kind of sat there and thought, ‘If nothing

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comes in, then I win.’ And I was like, ‘Please stop. Please ocean stop. Just shut off for me,’ (laughs) and it did! The last 20 seconds he looked over at me and said, “Wow, you got me.” I was just tripping out. For him to be telling me that was crazy. He’s someone I’ve looked up to my whole life. Growing up, he was the guy I watched at Pipe and still do. So for him to tell me that, I was like, ‘No way!’

Then the horn blew and I was just in disbelief.

I always wanted that feeling of winning out

there in good waves. And to have my whole family on the beach...my sister was here, my mom, my dad, my brothers... Yeah, it was like the best day ever for me.

CL: Your dad won this event too, yeah? What did Uncle Tony have to say about all this?

JM: Yeah, it’s crazy...I’ve always wanted to win this event, especially because my Dad won it back in the day. Not when it was

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Moniz Ohana, l to r: Tammy, Tony, Micah, Kaira, Seth, Josh, Isaiah. Akacia, Kelia, and Rainos Hayes.

the Volcom...I believe it was HPAC (Hawaii Pro/Am Circuit)? I forgot exactly, but he’s won the Pipe Pro out there, so yeah, it was crazy to win it after him. I just want to get another one so I can top him (laughs)!

CL: Talk about your family a bit? You’ve all been close since you were born, how’s the Ohana support helping you along your journey?

JM: Having my family around throughout my life has been amazing. I got my older brothers (Micah, and Isaiah) and my sister (Kelia) who are all so talented in surfing and everything they did and are so supportive of what I did and am doing. It was so great to have them there at Pipe.

I actually thought my little brother (Seth) would win Pipe before me (laughs). I felt like I would win there once, but I thought it would come sooner for him than it would for me. Just because he’s so good out there. He’s one of the best guys out there right now, so to get that was pretty special. But all my family, they’ve been pushing me my whole life and always encouraged me in a positive way, that’s definitely why I am where I am today.

CL: That must have been amazing having them all there on the final day of the event. How did they help you get motivated and what was that like having them there when you won?

JM: Yeah, it was super cool. My older brothers and my younger brother were all firing me up and telling me to go for it and that I could do it and just being super positive. Usually I’m at a contest on the road and just have my younger brother there, but to have my older brothers and my sister there was pretty special. It was crazy to see them and all my friends running down the beach to me after I won, I was like, ‘woah did that just happen’? It was the best thing ever, it felt like we all won.

CL: It felt like I won too! Looking forward, what are your expectations for yourself going into this year on the QS?: JM: Going into this year, I have pretty big expectations for myself. I want to finish the year in the top ten. This is only the start of the year and my goal is to definitely get on the tour next year. I kinda almost have to slow myself down from this win though and just refocus. This was a big confidence booster and I’m going to ride this momentum.

It’s definitely a bonus start to for my whole year. I’m getting ready to go on the road with my little brother and put a full year on the QS, so it’s going to be an exciting big year, for sure. pau

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S U R F

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Laura Mellow HEALING THROUGH ART Story and Photos: John Weaver Laura Mellow opens the door to her home enthusiastically and says hello with a big smile. Typical. Her positive excitement is infectious to those that know her. Meanwhile, her art twists and turns through the nuances of nature, human and otherwise.

We stroll through the hallways and I glance at the years of work on her walls. All personal, some more than others.

“Did you see the Volcom Pipe Pro?” Laura asks.

“Absolutely.” I reply. Laura flips through a sketch book. She had illustrated Pipeline in black ink and grey marker. Studies for future pieces. “Simple compositions to work from. Says a lot to me. This is

“I started as a figurative artist but create in 3 dimensions mentally,” Laura notes. Somehow her 2d abstract work carries a percieved emotional 3rd.

Laura moved to Hawaii at the age of 8. The daughter of a military doctor. His profession would soon alter the course of her life.

Laura’s father saved the life of Mo’okini Luakini Ali’i, Dewey Oliver Kuamo’o Mo’okini and he never forgot it. She was hanai’d into his family by his daughter.

Leimomi Mo’okini Lum. She guided Laura through the old Kohala Hawaiian Culture and all of it’s paths and gave her the name “Makal’i” from a dream.

the force coming down. That can go into the abstract. ”She notes and then points to another wave image on the wall “Then it goes into something like this one from the Eddie.”

The sketches are quite literal compared to the finished work. Laura has the talent to translate nature and emotion into figurative elements that carry the same spirit 56

Growing up in Wailupe set the hook for her love of the ocean and all of it’s moods.

She studied Art at Punahou School (Honolulu), Washington University in 1981, the American Institute for Foreign Study (AIFS)

in Venice and Florence (Italy) in 1981, Pilchuck Glass School (Stanwood, Washington) in 1999 and University of Hawai‘i – Pacific New Media in Manoa in 2016.

She uses both the computer and traditional art methods which results in her unique art. Known for her use of color, shape and form in mixed media. She has won several awards and is in private collections in Hawai‘i, Los Angeles and cities across the mainland.

Epilepsy is a steady cause in her work and her life. Through the miracle of modern medical science, she has overcome the worst of it to pursue her art. Frequently exhibiting with organization like 1 in 26 with the Epilepsy Foundation. And EpiBears.

Hidden Truths Project’s annual art exhibit and fundraiser for epilepsy research is now in its 6th year and taking a fresh

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approach. In 2017, Hidden Truths, the Mind Unraveled has become, 1:26 The Art of Epilepsy. 1 in 26 individuals will develop epilepsy in their lifetime. Despite the many advances in the field of epilepsy, this oft-hidden disability is wrought with misconceptions leading to stigmatization of those living with this condition. The focus of the event remains to raise awareness of epilepsy, to educate the general populace on the truths of this condition, to abolish the barriers and stigma associated with this diagnosis, and to accelerate development of therapy options for people living with the challenges of epilepsy.

After seeing the impact of the Epibear character on her niece, Laura realized that children who live with epilepsy may benefit from a medic alert. The medic alert comes in various designs with a caduseus on the medallion. Each is accompanied by a teddy bear charm and any important medical information can be engraved on the medallion.

This attractive and charming piece of jewelry provides the wearer with a comforting, yet important, tool to address the illness.

Naoya Kimoto /SURFDAY.TV

Jamie O’ Brien

Beach House Designs for Every Room

Her latest achievment is publishing and exhibiting in the revered Imago Mundi. Pet project of legendary art collector Luciano Benetton.

The work can be seen in the new book ‘Aloha Spirit Contemporary Artists from Hawaii.’ Her work and others in the book will be featured at a Biennial exhibit in Venice, Italy later this year.

Some might recognize her from several appearances on the television show “Hawai‘i Five-0” as Nalani Lukela, wife of Sgt. Duke Lukela, played by her real life significant other, actor Dennis Chun. Another medium to exercise her creative sensibilities.

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E N V I R O N M E N T

PROTEST MILESTONES

By Kahi Pacarro

Lucas Godfrey

The ProTest project has reached multiple milestones since it’s inception in December 2017. The brainchild of Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii brought to life by collaborating with Cliff Kapono and supported by Vans, Surfer Magazine, Surfdome, and Sustainable Surf, The ProTest is a chance for “Pros” to “Test” ecoboards while also protesting the 100% toxic surfboard.

The premise of the project is that the vast majority of surfboards are TOXIC for the environment and those that make them, that too few professionals are using them, and that the average Joe is heavily influenced by the leaders of our sport. Therefore we created a library of ecoboards that are at minimum level one certified ecoboards and are allowing professional surfers to checkout any board they want.

To incentivize the skeptical, we accumulated a $10k prize for the best performance of the winter and $1k for the filming team.

To officially enter the ProTest Challenge, a surfer or cinematographer must submit a 3 minute or shorter edit highlighting what ecoboards they rode and then show the proof of efficacy. To submit edits or to be featured via individual clips, submit your waves and edits to enter@ theprotest.tv or info@sustainablecoastlineshawaii.org.

Our first milestone was the completion of the ecoboard library. With boards ranging from a 4’10” Quadini from Two Crows Surfboards to a 6’6” Arakawa RP, the quiver is diverse and ready for almost any day the North Shore has to throw at it. With 40 boards overall and most all checked out at all times, the North Shore is being attacked with guilt free hacks and by qualified shade hunters.

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Our second milestone was accomplished when our inboxes started to “bing” with the arrival of our first clips of surfers using the ecoboards.

Leading the submission train was Ezra Sitt, Marco Giorgi, and Casey Goepel with many others following suit since then. The first full edits are having their final touches put on them as I write. By the time you’re reading this, they will be online at Surfer Magazine with links here at Freesurf. This will represent the next milestone of this project.

Pipe has been pumping and one of the unavoidable consequences associated with the venerable beast is the corresponding broken boards that are churned from her belly. Despite a large portion of the beginning of the Winter providing sub par waves due to terrible winds, we have only had one board broken at Pipe and that board has already been fixed and placed back in action packing caverns and collecting the proof thanks to Ezra.

We attribute the success of our boards at Pipe to heavier glass jobs.

With the vast majority of our quiver containing a core of recycled EPS, the boards are light and require heavier glass jobs to create the proper weight and feel for surfing Pipeline. The result is a stronger board with less detrimental environmental consequences. Not only because they’re made from recycled foam and plant based resins, but they also last longer. The longer a board lasts, the less waste surfboards create over time.

Imagine a quiver of boards that you keep for years, maybe even decades! The current status quo is a new board every few months, often replicating that same board negating your ability to experiment

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E N V I R O N M E N T

Sustainable Coastline’s Kahi Pacarro

with other shapes or shapers. But if you were able to keep that trusted go to board for at least a year, that means an additional $1,000+ in your pocket which most likely you’ll still spend on surfing. This inadvertent bonus as a result of utilizing recycled EPS is one of the highlights of going the route currently being provided by Marko Foam.

Perhaps the most exciting milestone that we have already reached is the increase in demand that will justify an increased supply of alternative materials. With dozens of inquiries from shapers, surfers, and glassers looking for eco-foam and bio-based resins it’s apparent that the demand is here. With murmurs of a collaboration between Arctic Foam and Marko Foam, the lack of alternative cores may soon be alleviated with the importing of both an algae based PU blank by Arctic Foam and Recycle EPS blanks from Marko. Entropy Resin is currently available at Fiberglass Hawaii.

So where to from here? We will continue to get the word out about the project and collect the clips with the goal of putting out a well produced film highlighting the capabilities of ecoboards. By proving they work, perhaps your next board will be an ecoboard.

If that’s not enough, find us on the North Shore at our weekly Public ProTest days. We will be offering demo days from March 1st to mid April focusing our set up right at Ehukai Sandbar. More info on IG @ sustainablecoastlineshawaii or www.sustainablecoastlineshawaii.org.

See you on the beach.

Kahi Pacarro is the Executive Director of Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii.

I N DUSTRY NOTE S

Austin Kalama Ty Simpson-Kane, a 7th grader at Kamehameha Maui, is the newest member of the Hi-Tech Shop Team. Also joining the team is hydrofoil maniac Austin Kalama, whose lineage includes his father, noted Maui watermen Dave Kalama, and grandfather, Ilima Kalama, a champion surfer in the 60's. Some of the Hi-Tech alumni include Ian Walsh, Dusty Payne, Ola Eleogram, Kai Barger, Granger Larsen, Albee Layer, Kai Lenny & Cody Young.

Storm Blade, the originators of the SSR board meant for surf schools and beginning surfers, released the new 2018 lineup in early February that are ready for drop in fun. The new performance lineup features removable slot box components and new detailing on the deck and bottoms this year. Storm Blade is available at Surf N Sea in Haleiwa or check them out at www.stormbladeboards.com.

After cementing his place back on the 2018 Championship Tour late last year, Keanu Asing was signed with Carve USA, an emerging eyewear brand in Hawaii & the U.S mainland. Along with Asing, Carve’s team of marquee riders already boasts an impressive lineup including Clay Marzo and Stu Kennedy. With plans to release a signature team model eyewear for the young CT ripper, Asing is stoked to be working with the crew at Carve. “Keanu is the perfect guy to lead the charge for our Hawaiian Carve team,” said Mike Montemurro, CEO Carve USA. “Leading by example with solid character and getting the job done as a passionate athlete is something we believe is important for everyone involved with Carve.”

Drop into the world of surfing cats! Written and illustrated by lifelong surfer and artist, Madek, Surf Cats teaches the basics of surfing for kids with a unique retro feel and with vivid illustrations. The story takes us to Cat Island, where we meet local cats Bodhi, Gizmo, Ginger, and many others. Learn their lingo and how they ride through rhythmic verse that flows like waves, setting up the purr-fect bedtime surf session. The hard cover book has 48 full color pages, and is printed in the USA. Copies can be purchased at www. surfcatsbook.com for $24.99.

Defending MIL girl’s shortboard champion is senior Kayla McCarthy.

The 5th season of official high school surfing starts on Maui March 17 at DT Flemings Beach. The Maui Interscholastic League is the only league that is officially Department of Education sanctioned as a high school sport and will have nine teams this spring: Baldwin, Haleakala Waldorf, Hana, Kamehameha Maui, King Kekaulike, Lahainaluna, Maui High, Maui Prep, and Seabury Hall.

Axel Rosenblad, of King Kekaulike, part of the defending MIL champion boy's team.

IN MEMORIAM: PIERRE AGNES

By Kyveli Diener

On Tuesday, January 30, Quiksilver CEO Pierre Agnes was declared lost at sea when his flooded boat washed ashore in the South of France unmanned just two hours after he set sail. Agnes, 54, left the Capbreton harbor at 7:30 am local time Tuesday, and his 36-foot boat Mascaret III was found just north of Biarritz at 9:30 am following contact from Agnes reporting thick fog.

After over 24 hours of rescue efforts in frigid waters, the search for Agnes was called off. The global surf community united in

mourning a man who lived for the ocean, loving every moment spent on his board or aboard his boat. Among the friends that gathered to support Agnes’ family were Quiksilver team rider and fellow countryman Jeremy Flores and 11x world champion Kelly Slater, who flew to France in early February to attend a memorial for the fallen leader.

“Thank you Pierre Agnes for a life well lived,” Slater wrote on an Instagram homage. “Life won’t be the same without you but ours are all richer for having known you.”

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As spring approaces we say adieu, to this view, for a while. Here’s Tom Dosland getting his share of the winter harvest.

Photo: Keoki