V16N2

THE

PHOTO ISSUE GUEST PHOTO EDITOR

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ZAK NOYLE

PHOTO: NOLAN OMURA #stillfree

©2019 Vans, Inc.

©2019 Vans, Inc.

F R E E

P A R K I N G

"When I shoot photography, I avoid Photoshop manipulation. We live in a world that is so easy for someone to manipulate a photo to create the vision in their head. It's so gratifying to see the vision and capture the moment with your camera, by utilizing water and light!"

Photo: Zak Noyle

T A B L E

6

O F

C O N T E N T S

Free Parking

12 Guest Editor’s Note 14 News 18 Giving Back 54 Stuff We Like 56 Environment 58 Surf Art 62 Industry Notes 66 Last Look

Malia Manuel Photo: Zak Noyle

Nick Gruen

F E A T U R E S

20 40

Kammeran Keola

S H A R P S H O OT E R S

50 Amplify Awesome.

When you see more, you can do more.

The Lowdown 2 from the Ridge Collection, Featuring ChromaPop™ Experience ChromaPop™ | smithoptics.com

S H E R I P S / A N N I E R E I C K E RT

Erik Aeder

A P E RT U R E

G U E S T

E D I T O R ’ S

N O T E

Ben Thouard

By Zak Noyle

There is something special about holding a magazine, viewing images and turning pages, as opposed to holding one’s phone and sliding your finger along the glass. Times change, but to this day print remains very special in a young photographer’s life. I still remember my first time seeing images I had shot finally published in a surf magazine. I was 19 years old, and it was a shot from the South Shore of O'ahu in H3O Magazine. I gazed at the tangible accomplishment for a while, and from that moment on, the fire was ignited.

As surf magazines (or magazines in general) shut their doors, Freesurf remains as the last standing 12-issue print surf mag. Fortunately, we have it in our backyard, something that we are able to touch, feel, and grab with the latest and best imagery coming out of Hawai`i and around the world.

As Guest Photo Editor for this issue, I took it upon myself to highlight inspirations and photographers to look out for with my list of some of the best upcoming water photographers in Hawai`i now. These aren’t the only up-and-coming photographers in Hawai`i by any means -- this is just a short list of some young photogs who truly inspire and push me in my own photography. Keep on shooting! And like my dad, Ric Noyle, always says, “Shoot loose and edit tight!”

- Zak Noyle

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Managing Editor, Social Media Manager Shannon Reporting Photo Editor Zak Noyle Art Director John Weaver Video Director Andrew Oliver

THE

PHOTO ISSUE GUEST PHOTO EDITOR

V 1 6

Videography / Editing Aukai Ng, Andrew Storer

ZAK NOYLE

# 2

PHOTO: NOLAN OMURA #stillfree

Ambassadors-at-Large Chris Latronic, Andrew Oliver Sales & Customer Service Coordinator Tonya Grace Goldberg tonya@freesurfmagazine.com Contributing Writers Matt Bender, Kyveli Diener, Alex Kahn, Mara Pyzel, Kahi Pacarro, Shannon Reporting Copy Editor Kyveli Diener West Coast Distribution Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395 Hawai`i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395 Staff Photographers Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, Keoki Saguibo, Andrew Storer Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brent Bielmann, Brian Bielmann, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Dooma, Pete Frieden, Manny "Gonzo" Gonzales, Shane Grace, Dane Grady, Andy Hawes, John Hook, Mike Ito, Bryce Johnson, Alexandra Kahn, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Ryan Miller, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 383-9220 Follow us on social media @freesurfmag

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2015

Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am

N E W S

&

E V E N T S

2019 DaHui Backdoor Shootout

By Shannon Reporting Photos Keoki

Tyler Newton

breathtaking. Surfing in this comp is a competitor’s dream, but only the local chargers and guys that have proven themselves worthy here get a ticket in.

The DaHui Backdoor Shootout was a smoke show in memory of Duke Kahanamoku, with Kauai’s Tyler Newton taking home a $40,000 check and bragging rights. His high scores helped team Weed Maps take first place overall.

“It’s one of my biggest dreams to win an event at Pipe. It’s been something I’ve wanted to do since I was very young. It’s an honor... this is crazy!” Tyler Newton exclaimed after a champagne shower from the boys. “Being from Kauai, especially from Hanalei, it means so much to win an event like this in Hawaii. I’m so happy that it’s hard to put into words! When they announced my wave score for the 11.5, from the water I thought I heard the announcer say, ‘7.5,’ so I kinda shrugged it off. But then I came in and celebrated! I remember when I was 17 years old and competing in the Shootout, I found a

The jersey-less contest scored some of the best conditions of the season thus far with numerous Wave of the Winter entries throughout the waiting period. Second Reef Pipe was breaking for the majority of the event as back-to-back Northwest swells lit up both Pipe and Backdoor. The Shootout's team format is unique: riders from DaHui Wax, Volcom, Weed Maps, RVCA, Team Japan, Quiksilver, North Shore Surf Shop, CBD MD, and Hui O He'e Nalu are given their own heats amongst their riders. For six rounds, each team swam out to the lineup together to represent respectively, and the judges then tallied the top three wave scores of each rider throughout the event.

Jamie O'Brien

A staple on the North Shore of O'ahu, the Backdoor Shootout invites Hawaii’s best Pipe surfers in the water to show what they’re made of.

When Eddie Rothman gives you the green light to paddle out, you go. And you'd better give it your all.

There’s no final heat. No jerseys. No WSL rulebook. No 10-point scale — in fact, judges can give the ride of the day a perfect 12. The best word to describe the Backdoor Shootout would probably be raw. Commentators go wild and tell it like it is, hooting and hollering, roasting whenever the opportunity arises while keeping the aloha spirit alive. Fans tend to favor the broadcast since it's so fun to watch, the energy is high, and when Pipeline is firing, it’s simply 14

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D A H U I

B A C K D O O R

S H O O T O U T

Keito Matsuoka

Tyler Newton

Shannon Reporting

similar peaking wave off the Second Reef, had water in my eyes and almost fell on the bottom turn, but I made it. I was so stoked.”

It takes bravado and consistency to win here at Pipeline. According to Newton, “You need to get more than just one good wave. The guys in this contest are the best of the best. Jamie O’Brien, Koa Rothman, Eli Olson... all these guys are insane. My goal was to get one good wave every single heat, and it worked out.” So, what’s next for Tyler? “This year, I want to focus on traveling to hollow waves like Teahupo’o and Fiji, and get really barreled.”

In second place was the North Shore’s Jamie O’Brien, who said this year’s Shootout scored some of the best Pipe days in years. “This is always an amazing event -- thanks to Uncle Eddie [Rothman], DaHui, Mahina [Chillingworth], all the security, water patrol… it’s for the people. They were asking us surfers to make the call about when we wanted to surf, which is cool,” O’Brien said. “What makes the Backdoor Shootout so special is that underground guys can enter the contest that are fully capable of getting the Wave of the Winter.

This gives them the lineup to get that wave. It was awesome seeing Kala Grace put on a great performance, and Makana Pang — surfers that you don’t always see out there, when given the opportunity will put on an awesome show.”

The only perfect 12-point ride was surfed by Team Japan's Keito Matsuoka, who also scored an 11 in last year’s event. Showstoppers included Koa Rothman with a 10.67, Shota Nakamura with a 10.5, Jamie O’Brien with a 10.17, and Kalani Chapman pulling into a 10 point ride.

Musician and surfer Landon McNamara twisted his ankle on a committed drop the size of a two-story building. He made it and rode out clean, and even surfed a barrel before calling it a day. Two jet ski incidents made it onto @KookSlams on Instagram. Conditions were as heavy as they get, and unforgiving. The leaderboard truly had to earn it out there.

Look forward to next month's monster photo gallery from this event!

Team Results:

Individual Results:

1st - Weed Maps 2nd - North Shore Surf Shop 3rd - Quiksilver 4th - DaHui Wax 5th - Volcom 6th - Team Japan 7th - CBD MD 8th - Hui O He'e Nalu

1st - Tyler Newton 2nd - Jamie O’Brien 3rd - Shota Nakamura 4th - Keito Matsuoka 5th - Bruce Irons

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M-7 Kerry Tokoro’s M-7 Model, is the perfect go-to board for those days when the waves get too big or powerful for your everyday shortboard. The clean lines, sophisticated bottom contours and rounded pintail design combine to make this board fast and loose, yet solid and stable. The bottom features a fair amount of rocker with a mix of single to double concave flowing to a slight vee off of the tail. This allows the board to fit into steep sections of the wave and keeps it feeling loose and maneuverable. If you’re looking for a step-up design that won’t sacrifice your performance, the M-7 is the right board for you.

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GIVING BACK

ZAK NOYLE FOUNDATION Mission statement To place cameras and the necessary tools into the hands of kids to give them a visual outlet to show the world what they see.

Why “Technology moves so fast these days. As a professional photographer, I need to be at the cutting edge with my equipment to give my clients the best product possible. I can’t be using a camera that’s four years old when the yearly advancements are so significant. This doesn’t mean that a 5-year-old camera or beyond is obsolete by any means -- I have many older cameras that still function, just sitting in my closet. I want to take these cameras from around the world (my own, and those from others) and get them into the hands of kids under 18 years old, allowing them to have an outlet for their creativity.

The goal of my non-profit is to help underprivileged kids have access to a digital camera. I’m so fortunate to have all this amazing equipment, but with how fast technology is moving, there are many retired cameras that could be donated somewhere and utilized in this way. I want to make it possible for people to donate cameras and give them a tax break for it.

These kids are hungry to get their foot in the door. Many of them are in school or have other jobs; all of these up-and-coming photographers are excited to be out in the field to learn as much as they can. Kids could come to work on the computers, and we would set up a gallery space for workshops.” - Zak Noyle For more details, visit: www.zaknoyle.com/pages/zak-gives-back

SHARP SHOOTERS

By Zak Noyle

There’s so much media talent in the world right now, especially with digital photography. There are more and more kids coming up, more people learning to shoot and gaining access to opportunities.

Back in the day, it was kind of like a club. But now the learning curve has changed. These kids are so respectful in the water, and they work really hard. They have a great work ethic, and want to be out there. It’s not easy to swim out to Pipeline as a photographer, but I see all of these kids out there on some heavy days with smiles on their faces getting some incredible shots.

I am very comfortable with where I am in my career and with my abilities, and I love being able to give back. I always remind myself that I got into this because of the love for photography and being in the ocean.

I think I inherited the love for giving back from my dad and the way he treats people.

I love helping others, and I know how much my parents and my family helped me to get to where I am. Without a great support system, it’s a difficult thing. My dad is a commercial photographer, so I had access to cameras and lenses, and connections. My mom was my dad’s studio manager, so then she became mine, which means help with invoices and all of that stuff. Without them, I wouldn’t be where I am in my career.

These kids are hungry to get their foot in the door. Many of them are in school or have other jobs; all of these up-and-coming photographers are excited to be out in the field to learn as much as they can. A lot of them have other jobs or are in school, but all of these up-and-coming photographers are so excited to be there to learn. I got into photography because of my love for the ocean, and these kids exemplify that. They are good people. I am excited to see them do well. I am a fan.

CHRISTA FUNK @instaclamfunk Age: 28 Hometown: Grand Junction, Colorado

Albee Layer

Jake DiPaola

Kala Grace

“Surf photography is a combination of my passions - swimming, shooting, and surfing.

I love being in the ocean. My love of the water began as soon as I could walk, which led to 15 years of competitive swimming. In 2003, I was handed an SLR camera and was captured after my first shutter release. After graduating from the Coast Guard Academy in 2012, I was stationed in Hawai’i for 5 years. I finished my time as a Coast Guard Officer and have transitioned to being a fulltime photographer. In and out of the water, I am pursuing my passion for photography.

I currently shoot with a Canon 7D Mark II, various Canon lenses, and SPL Water Housing.

When I was 16, I was in a bookstore in Denver and picked up a copy of Extreme Sports Photography: Taking Pictures on the Edge. Sean Davey was a featured photographer. I was fascinated by his photos and have enjoyed seeing his work ever since. One of his shots was Jamie O'Brien at Teahupo’o, taken from above in a helicopter (before drones). That is still a favorite of mine.”

“Christa is truly incredible. When I think I’m going to be the first person in the water, she’s out there before me. And then when I go in, she’s still out there. It’s insane; she works long hours in the water and is always so happy. I love that about her.” - Zak Noyle

KEALE LEMOS @kealelemos Age: 22 Hometown: North Shore O'ahu When I was little I wanted to be a pro surfer.

I wanted to have that lifestyle of traveling the world, doing what I loved, being in the water… So today, through surf photography, I have all of that.

Right now I'm using a Sony a6300 and Liquideye water housing - really small and

Tyler Newton

Italo Ferreira

light set-up, great for being in the zone!

I got into photography because of my dad, Bruno Lemos. His eye for detail and work ethic always inspires me. I'm constantly getting inspired from photos I see from so many different photographers. If I had to pick one that I admire most, it would have to be Corey Wilson; he's probably the most complete photographer at the moment.”

“I have seen Keale work and shoot for a long time. I know his dad well. Just seeing how comfortable he is in some heavy situations at Off The Wall is rad to see. He has a great work ethic.” - Zak Noyle

Reef McIntosh

NICK GRUEN @mr_gru Age: 24 Hometown: Laie, O'ahu “I am always super grateful just to be in the ocean and see the things I get to see, feel the power and the love of the water, and enjoy the company of friends. It’s not always about that golden shot or good catch for me.

I shoot with the Sony A7R III and A6500. I use Salty Surf housings from Australia for my water housings. I like my rigs to be as small and compact as possible.

I have always looked up to Chris Burkard, Jeremiah Klein, and the local legends like Zak Noyle, John Hook, and Keoki Saguibo.

Grateful for them and all that they teach me.”

"Nick is a great guy. He’s eager to learn, asking me where I am going to shoot and how he can help. He’s gone out of his way to help me with my projects and anything I’m doing, like my workshops.

He’s willing to drive across the island to help me with whatever I’m up to, because he wants to be there to learn. His drone images are beautiful, as well as his water shots.” - Zak Noyle

PHILIP KITAMURA @phiiirrrip Age: 22 Hometown: Pearl City, O'ahu “I enjoy finding the biggest and cleanest barrels that I can fit into. There’s nothing else like feeling the power of the lip slamming down while nailing a shot. I love getting barreled when I shoot.

I use a SPL water housing for my Canon 5D Mark IV. I most commonly use a 50mm f/1.4, 35mm f/2.0 IS, 70-200mm f/4 IS, and a 1635mm f/4 IS. All of those are Canon glass.

Zak Noyle, Brent Bielmann, Keoki Saguibo, Daniel Russo, Clark Little, Shane Grace, Ryan Foley, Lloyd Meudell, and Ray Collins all had a major influence on my development as a photographer. Nowadays, I look to my fellow photographers for inspiration.”

“I have seen him put himself in some of the heaviest situations to shoot. He comes with me swimming and trains.

He is eager to learn. He gets himself out there, working hard. I think he is getting his Masters now, but he’s still always out there at Pipe doing his thing.” - Zak Noyle

Martin Jeri

Tyler Newton

Makua Rothman

AUSTIN MOORE @austinmoor Age: 22 Hometown: San Diego, California “What I love about surf photography is how happy it makes me. The adrenaline from nailing a shot to getting caught inside is all such a blast. I always get out with a smile on my face no matter the session. I love being able to share the photos with my friends and family, and their responses are priceless to me.

Dylan Cotton

Currently, I use a Canon 7D Mark II with an SPL water housing and like to shoot with my fisheye the most, but I also use a 50mm when it gets really scary. I’m always in a

Kai Mana Henry

Ryder Guest

wetsuit with my Gath helmet and trusty Da Fins when I swim out.

My biggest photography inspirations are Zak Noyle, Daniel Russo, and Todd Glaser.

All their work inspires me to push myself out in the surf, and they all get mental shots with wide angles and fisheyes. My mom is also one of my biggest inspirations and I couldn’t have started my photography journey without her.”

“I only met Austin this year, but I have been a fan of his work and what he’s done. There are some angles that make me think, ‘I wish I shot that.’ He gets it. He told me he had been using the 16-35 like mine, which is not an easy lens to use, but he has shot some great stuff with it.” - Zak Noyle

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NOLAN OMURA @nolanomura Age: 21 Hometown: Honolulu, O'ahu “I love surf photography because there are so many different angles and ways to get creative. No two waves are the same and it’s up to you to portray your vision and the shot you have in mind.

I’m currently using a Canon 5D Mark IV with an Aquatech housing.

Zak Noyle is my biggest inspiration for surf

photography. However, I also enjoy the works of Ben Thouard, Warren Keelan, and Roy Collins. They inspire me to work hard and keep trying new things!”

“Nolan is a full-time student. A majority of these upcoming photographers are studying, which is so rad. They are just so passionate. They are out there when it’s big or small, creating things. Nolan doesn’t go the traditional route of just shooting surfing. He’s really found his own in that way of what drives him. You don’t have to swim out to 10-foot Pipe to be a water photographer. He does it, but he’s also paved his own path. He’s very intune to color and editing.” - Zak Noyle

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ZOARD JANKO

@zoard Age: 23 Hometown: Born in Békéscsaba, Hungary (moved to the US at age 5)

Francisco Porcella

“Being in the water is always a good time no matter what you’re doing. It clears your mind of all the commotion in order to focus is what’s happening right now. There’s a feeling of satisfaction when you get good shots and can look back on them and fully take it in; it all happens so quick when you’re watching it. I really enjoy is capturing the best moments in people’s lives; those are the things that stay with you forever. If

Jesse James Johnson

I summed it up in one sentence: I just love how waves look, so I’m capturing as many as I can.”

Nathan Florence

I currently shoot with a Canon 1DX Mark II in a Aquatech Housing with a 16-35mm or 70-200mm.

Brent Bielmann takes amazing shots and has helped me learn so much. Szilard Janko (my brother) takes unreal underwater shots, especially of sharks. Zak Noyle inspired me to pull the trigger on buying an AxisGO housing, which I enjoy shooting with. Clark Little blows my mind with some of the shorebreak he takes on the head and his mutant barrel shots.”

“I met Zoard this year when he was lifeguarding; he’s out in the water all the time. I like his perspective, pulling it back and shooting in a different way. He’s separate from the pack. He’s not copying the other guys; he’s doing his own thing with a longer lens." - Zak Noyle

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KAMMERAN KEOLA @kammerankeola Age: 20 Hometown: Kaneohe, O'ahu

“I love surf photography for many reasons.

It allows me to express myself and to tap into my creative mind, because there are so many ways to photograph the ocean. I also love being able to share my images with people all around the world, with those who may never get to see it for themselves. The friends I’ve made through taking pictures is the reason why I love doing this.

Flynn Novak

The gear I am currently using is a Canon 80D secured in an Aquatech Water Housing.

Photographers who inspire me in and out of the water are: Zak Noyle, Amber Mozo, Corey Wilson, Warren Keelan, and Andrew Semark - not only because of their photography, but for their amazing personalities.”

"When I look at his Instagram shots, there are such beautiful colors shining through.

He has lighting dialed. His work reminds me of Corey Wilson’s looks. Every post is so well-thought-out. I just post the latest thing I can find [laughs]. All of these guys and girls are shooting images I wish I shot. It’s not jealousy, but more like admiration. When I look at Kammeran’s work, I often find myself thinking, ‘Damn, that’s a great shot.’” - Zak Noyle

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KALANI MINIHAN @kalaniminihan Age: 20 Hometown: North Shore O'ahu, Hawaii “What's not to love about surf photography?

We're able to capture the beauty of what we're lucky enough to play in every day.

I shoot with whatever I can get my hands on! The other day I shot with a waterproof disposable film camera and had a blast.

When it comes to high resolution photos, I shoot with a Canon 7D mark II. I've just recently got into film photography so I'm also trying to get used to the Nikonos V. I'm blessed to be surrounded by so many

talented individuals. Amber Mozo, Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, and Zak Noyle are the photographers that I've always looked up to.

Their work always leaves me speechless.”

“We last saw Kalani swimming out at 15 ft Pipeline covering the DaHui Backdoor Shootout with a RED Camera. He also has lifeguard training and conditioning under his belt, which explains why he feels comfortable swimming out to XXL Waimea Bay. During the most recent swell, he was the only photographer in the water. Mom wasn’t comfortable with it, but told us she knows he is 150% committed to everything he does, so she is proud of him.” - Shannon Reporting

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SHE RIPS

Annie Reickert

By Kyveli Diener

Annie Reickert was not necessarily referring to herself when she gave this answer after we asked how she would define a waterwoman. Most likely, the humble 17-year-old was picturing the multifaceted oceanic talents who inspire her daily, particularly two legends of women on the water she shares her home island of Maui with, Paige Alms and Andrea Moller. But her description is exactly how most people would refer to the Pukalani native, whose prowess for watercraft spans boards of all lengths, with or without paddles, cutting through the water or flying over it with the help of a foil. You can catch her charging monstrous

oversized surf on classic guns, or maximizing flat days on the latest foil technology. Hers is a name that’s on the lips of many across all corners of the surf industry, and in the history books: Annie Starr Reickert became the first woman to ever foil across the 26-mile Ka’iwi Channel that separates Molokai and O'ahu last year at just 16 years old. And judging from the way she speaks about the sports she loves and the future of waterwomen everywhere, we ain’t seen nothin’ yet. (Case in point: just before this printing Reickert ticked “Charge XXL Jaws” off her bucket list when she paddled out with Paige Alms during an early January swell.)

Do you remember your first wave? How and when did you start surfing?

I started surfing when I was about 3 years old on the front of my parents’ boards.

Most weekends we headed to Puamana Beach Park on

the west side of Maui. I would spend hours catching waves and had to be dragged from the water when it was time to leave.

Although I don’t remember my first wave specifically, I remember feeling butterflies every time we pulled into the beach park excited for a day in the surf. My first board was a bright yellow old beater called the Banana. I loved that board!

How old were you when you knew you wanted to be a waterwoman?

It wasn't really a conscious decision to become a waterwoman, but over time I started trying out different water sports, mostly so that I could do something on the water regardless of the conditions.

Before I knew it, I was heading to the beach with three or four options loaded in the truck — foil surf board, SUP race board, short board — so I could get in the water no matter what!

What is your preferred watercraft?

I honestly don't know if I can choose

a favorite watercraft because I enjoy them all so much in different conditions! If the wind’s blowing, I’ll downwind on either my 5’8 SUP foil board or 14’ race SUP. When the waves are big, I’ll use my 9’4” gun.

But I also spend a lot of time on my shortboard -- I love my 4’3 foil surf board, and my SUP surfboard.

Who was your first sponsor?

How old were you and how did it feel when they approached you?

My first sponsor was Naish. I used to see Robby Naish in the lineup and at school because his daughter went to school with me. At that time, I was using a huge SUP board that was way too big for me. Robby created a line of high performance SUP surf boards for keiki and offered me one. I remember the day I got it and I slept with it that night. I was beyond excited!

It’s still a highlight moment for me as it was the beginning of my path to becoming a waterwoman.

Who are all your current sponsors?

NSP, The Hydrofoil Company, Pakaloha, MFC, Maui Jim, and Honolulu Surf Company.

Who do you look up to in surfing, SUP, and other water activities and why?

@frankiebees

“I think of a waterwoman as someone who is passionate about being on and in the ocean. She engages in a variety of water sports and is knowledgeable and confident in a range of conditions. She gets out there regardless because she doesn’t want to miss a day in the water. She has a deep respect for and love of the ocean and that passion pretty much shapes who she is.”

R I P S

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Erik Aeder

S H E

Where do you go to school and what career would you be interested in pursuing if you weren't an athlete?

I’m enrolled in an online high school. My favorite subject is Science and I am really interested in doing something with conservation and marine biology one day.

Where are your favorite places that you've traveled to, and where is somewhere you're dying to visit someday?

I’ve gone to some amazing places the last few years. I especially liked Japan, Fiji, Nicaragua, and France. As far as places I’d like to visit, I want to go to the “three M’s:” the Marshalls, Mentawais, and Maldives!

I’d have to say that Kai Lenny is the gold standard for watermen/multi-water sport athlete! He’s one of the most talented athletes in the world and happens to do all of the sports that I love. He pushes boundaries in everything he does and inspires others along the way — me included! There are also so many amazing and inspiring waterwomen these days. I’m so fortunate to live on Maui where I’m surrounded by them. Two of my biggest heroes are Paige Alms and Andrea Moller. They’ve inspired me to surf big waves and set my sights on the WSL Big Wave Tour.

How do you like to train and stay fit for water sports?

I’m extremely lucky to work with an amazing trainer, Sam Campbell of Deep Relief. She trains big wave surfers including Ian Walsh and Paige Alms and other watermen/women. We do functional strength training and activation workouts to prepare us for doing what we love. I also run several times a week and train at altitude on Haleakala.

Where are your favorite surf spots at home?

My home surf spot is Ho’okipa.

Currently, my favorite surf spot is Outer Sprecks, an outer reef break off Maui’s North Shore. In the winter months, the waves get big and fun and I’m often out there with only a few friends.

is incredible and being able to introduce such an innovative sport into that race was special to say the least. Although I've competed in Hawaiian channel crossings before on my 14ft SUP, I will remember this specific race

What makes Maui such a special place to live?

The sights, the sounds, the smells…just about everything! The physical beauty of Maui takes my breath away almost daily.

And I can literally do every water sport that I want to do — in my own backyard.

There’s no place I’d rather live. Thanks Mom and Dad! Have you ever been faced with a scary challenge while surfing? And how did you overcome it?

Not yet! But I know that being calm and mindful is key.

What recent achievements have been most meaningful to you and why?

In July 2018 during the M2O channel crossing, I became the first female to cross the Ka’iwi Channel on my SUP foil. The power that body of water holds

for years to come. The sport of downwind foiling is so new and I can’t wait to see its progression over the next few years. It was an amazing experience to fly 32 miles from Molokai to O'ahu.

It was an honor to take part in this foil race and to pave the way for more women to come!

I also paddled 25 miles around Manhattan in August for the SEAPaddle NYC, a fundraiser for autism charities that introduce kids to the ocean. It was an incredible event!

What are your favorite breaks outside of Hawaii?

Colorados in Nicaragua and Swimming Pools in Fiji.

What always makes you smile?

My pets always make me smile — Lulu my threelegged dog and Oscar my cat are the best! I also smile whenever I come home from a trip — coming back to Maui always puts a huge smile on my face regardless of where I’ve been.

What are your goals in water sports?

I want to continue to improve in all the sports I currently do and become the ultimate waterwoman.

What do you wish for the future generations of surfer girls?

I want the ocean to be the place where we all feel empowered, whether we’re riding giants or waist high surf. I want future generations of female surfers to feel strong and capable and continue to push the limits of what’s possible.

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S T U F F

W E

L I K E

Sun Bum “We like groovy little collectible freebies!”

For a limited time, Sun Bum is giving away Limited Edition 5”, 3D collectible vinyl figures of our very own Guest Editor Zak Noyle, plus Filipe Toledo, Julian Wilson, Malia Manuel, Barron Mamiya, Bede Durbidge and Kyuss & Rasmus King with any Sun Bum purchase of $30 or more, available in surf shops only – with the end goal to support surf shops around the globe. To celebrate the 10th birthday of the original vinyl “Sonny” (Sun Bum’s infamous Ape mascot), the brand made this series to say thanks to some of their crazy talented friends, who’ve been so groovy to their little company over the years. Stock up on Sun Bum Sunscreen at your local surf shop and take home a groovy little vinyl character!

604 “We like great food, served up with lots of local love!”

GoPro “We like this hip, slick, and cool new GoPro!” Freesurf’s camera crew is super stoked to have the new GoPro7 in our equipment bag! GoPro’s newest flagship camera, HERO7 Black, is the most advanced GoPro yet. It features built-in HyperSmooth image stabilization, which delivers insanely smooth, gimbal-like video in up to 4K resolution. The $399 GoPro also features TimeWarp and SuperPhoto modes, live streaming, improved audio and an intuitive new user-interface - perfect to keep Freesurf fans and followers up to date with barrel action and fun moments on the go from the field! And thanks to the core features of GoPro, the waterproof, rugged HERO7 Black can handle any adventure... we surely will put it to the test here at Manulele Media!

Main man Donovan Maples of Restaurant 604 is an original Haleiwa Boy who supports surfing and the local community with his heart and soul. Donovan and his wife Devina really showed their love by hosting the MANULELE Awards on February 2, 2019, offering generous food and libations, along with great ambience and music and excellent service at their harborside restaurant.

Restaurant 604 offers the best waterfront dining in Pearl Harbor, HI for military families, local residents and those just passing through. Their diverse menu features a selection of traditional American cuisine along with island favorites. Give ‘em a nice, big mahalo when you visit them (next door to the USS Arizona Memorial) for Aloha Hours every day from 3-5 for half off select beers and pupus and live music Monday - Friday (except for Monday and Thursday during football season) from top local artists and visiting acts from around the globe!

Ribby “We like our ribs ~ unbruised!”

Tony Padon is going to be everyone’s new best friend with this radical new product. Ribby is a lightweight, padded rash guard made for surfing all day. These shirts have a thick, neoprene chest and rib guard that protects from bruising, allowing you to stay out longer while preventing soreness. The long sleeve design also provides UV protection while staying breathable and cool.

Give Ribby a try next time you’re surfing all day (or all week)...you won’t regret it!

54

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E N V I R O N M E N T

Plastic Pollution:

Recycling Is Not Enough

By Kahi Pacarro

Stop thinking that recycling and cleanups will solve our plastic pollution problems.

That’s a stark pronouncement coming from me, considering I started a beach cleanup organization eight years ago that has grown to become a world leader in our search for real solutions to the pollution crisis facing our oceans and islands. Let me illuminate that statement with revelations we’ve come across on our adventure towards real solutions.

At first it seems easy: don’t litter, pick up trash, and recycle.

It’s what we’ve been told to do since we were kids, but the problem has only gotten worse. That’s because many of the pillars of our educational upbringing were actually built by the corporations that profit when we continue to think that we can clean and recycle our way out of the mess we find ourselves in.

In 1953, a group of savvy businessmen from the beverage and packaging industries came

only exacerbates an America filled with leftover packaging that clogs our storm drains, landfills, incinerators, forests, rivers, harbors, beaches, and oceans. Campaigns like these are instruments of the oil industry, and they get funding in order to continue to make industry funders billions of dollars annually. We believe the funding should remain within the companies in order to evolve and redesign the way that they do business instead of justifying their status quo.

Real solutions encourage suspending the creation of single use plastics, and to switch the makeup of other plastic products to be created with viable renewable alternatives such as bamboo, hemp, mycelium, and corn, among others.

up with a plan to combat a potential incoming swath of regulation and public outcry against their industry. Their plan was to create a non-profit group that put the responsibility of keeping America beautiful on the consumer -- not on the companies whose packaging is made out of a material that lasts forever, yet is used for just a few minutes. Their genius was the Keep America Beautiful campaign (KAB), and its local variant, Keep Hawaiian Islands Beautiful (KHIB), now works diligently throughout the state.

They want us to think we are a bunch of litterbugs and that all we have to do to fix this problem is to stop littering, recycle, and push for better waste management, including incinerators and waste-toenergy plants like H-Power.

Where does Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i stand in all of this? The organization was created after my mind was blown seeing all the plastic scattered across Kailua Beach -- though I was blind to the microplastic at that time, I realized the scope of the problem deeply affected my life. Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i was born that day, and the goal was twofold. The first was to educate others about the severity of the issue at hand, understanding that the crap washing ashore was generated by the same stuff we (along

Since the inception of KAB, the deep pockets funding this organization have allowed the group to insert curriculum into our communities that continue to shame us, the consumer, while putting no responsibility on the companies that fund KAB. What this has created is a false sense of understanding towards the solutions to truly “Keeping America Beautiful”. It’s an ironic campaign name considering the message perpetrated on the public and youth in schools 56

with our family, our friends, our coworkers, and our clients) use on a daily basis or as a result of the food we eat. Secondly, it was to rally people to accept the fact that, until we can stop the debris from washing ashore, we will need to keep cleaning it up. Therefore, we created a non-profit that focuses on blowing minds and creating life-changing transitions aimed at reducing everyone’s use of plastics while also helping to keep our beaches clean. This mix of proactive and reactive solutions solidifies everything we stand for.

We believe that if all we ever do is clean beaches, it’ll be an endless and unresolved project.

We must focus on the source of the issue: corporations utilizing plastic, a cheap material that allows them to rake in billions of dollars while leaving the costs of dealing with their waste to the consumer and our governments.

Until our politicians are no longer influenced by corporations over those who elect them, we will continue to see this problem worsening.

It’s up to us to stop using so much plastic. It’s silly to think that cleanups and recycling will fix the problem; we must hold those we elect accountable to keep our oceans and beaches clean by forcing companies to stop using so much plastic. We cannot clean, burn, or recycle our way out of this.

Kahi Pacarro Executive Director, Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i

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S U R F

A fearlessly creative duo dabbling in nearly every medium of art, Scott Yoell and Margo Ray of Island Eclectic have proven that they can take on almost any artistic challenge. From wood and ink to bronze and printmaking, this husband and wife team have combined their talents and passions into one company where they produce a variety of large-scale projects as a team while still working on solo pieces.

A R T

Island Eclectic

By Alex Kahn

parents were part of the 1960s cultural revolution and moved to Haleiwa in the early 1970s from the East Coast of the U.S. They had friends there and were attracted to the island lifestyle.

SCOTT YOELL: I was born in Windsor, Ontario, Canada. Margo and I met in Montreal, Quebec while she was in graduate school and I was teaching at Concordia University. Some friends introduced us, and here we are 11 years later.

Margo is prone to colorful designs, while Scott sticks more to black and white imagery. Often combining varying media in their work, they have jointly created everything from surf fins and ink drawings to digital printed canvases and sculptures.

Freesurf Magazine caught up with the artistic duo to find out about their inspirations and preferred media.

Do you take inspiration from Hawaii when you create your art?

MR: Yes, my work has been very inspired and influenced by the natural and cultural landscape in Hawai’i...in particular, my use of bold colors [and reference to] the cattleranching Paniolo culture that is prevalent in Waimea on the Big Island, where I grew up.

Where are you from?

MARGO RAY: I was born on O'ahu and moved to Hawai’i Island as a baby. My

SY: My work is definitely inspired from living 58

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research them before I begin production.

Which medium introduced you to life as an artist?

MR: I started out in printmaking -- mainly intaglio but screen print, woodcut, and lithography as well.

SY: I began with drawing and woodworking.

What were your first big breaks?

MR: When I first moved

in Hawai’i, especially its beautiful beaches, sunsets, and ecosystems. However, I am also compelled to discuss its flipside, the notso-glamorous side such as poverty and the ramifications of tourist culture.

How often are you creating?

MR: I have a pretty regular studio practice on a weekly basis. There is so much other work around being an artist -- promoting your work, applying for shows, running the business side of things -- so that time in the studio is cherished.

SY: I always feel like I am being creative. I do a lot of creative work with Island Eclectic such as art restoration, curation, fabrication for interior designers, and art installation. My personal studio times are often in blocked increments. I usually sit on ideas and

original in my studio that I then shipped over to O’ahu. It was photographed there and then digitally printed on canvas at 8’ x 64’. The whole process took over a year between the time I started working on ideas and developing sketches to the final piece being reproduced and installed on such a large scale.

Scott, how did you begin creating your custom surfboard and fin drawings?

SY: I was going on a surf trip to Nicaragua and wanted a new board to bring on the trip. My friend and local surfboard shaper, Keith Tallett, had a good idea for a shape for me. I did the artwork and assisted in shaping the board, then Keith glassed it. The board surfs really well, too!

back to Hawai’i in 2006 after several years abroad, I was part of a three-person show at Mark’s Garage in Chinatown where I exhibited one of my large-scale water tank installations. It was viewed by a lot of people and got some good press, which cascaded into showing regularly throughout the state while simultaneously being able to live in the rural areas on the Big Island where we wanted to be.

SY: I was asked to participate in an exhibition in Minneapolis called ‘Enchanted’ that explored surrealism and the metaphysical curated by Andréa Stanislav. Here in Hawai’i, it was in 2010 when I was asked to be part of The [Honolulu Museum of Art] Contemporary Museum Biennial of Hawai'i Artists by curator Inger Tully.

Margo, you recently created a large-scale commercial project for Maui Brewing Company. Tell us more about that process of creating such an undertaking remotely.

MR: For the Maui Brewing Co. mural, I created a smaller

Where will the drawing series of Fins be on display?

SY: They were created for a pop-up show we just had, and are available for purchase on islandeclectichi.com.

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Say hello to my new friend! Sun Bum is always re-inventing fun.

The best things in life are still free.

Matt Carpenter from Island Slipper, holding down the fort.

I N D U S T R Y

N O T E S

S U RF E XP O 2019 ORLA NDO, FLORI D A

by Mike Latronic If you're gonna go, go with these guys! The Kalamas and friends are some of the best in the business if you want to "Go Foil."

Surf Expo is the largest and longest running boardsports and beach lifestyle tradeshow in the world and Manulele media is a proud collaborator! With loads of new digital offerings and the fact that Freesurf Magazine is now the sole monthly print publication in that niche for North America, it made sense to show up and represent -with aloha of course!

The crew headed to the 2019 Surf Expo in Orlando, Florida with the intent to check out the latest surfboards, surf gear and accessories and touch base with clients, industry VIP’s and get a feel for the overall vibe and heartbeat of the surf and beach lifestyle industry.

These guys are definitely on a mission.

The man behind the brand, second from left, Jeff Hubbard.

The show featured upward of 2,500 booths of apparel and hardgoods and a full line-up of special events and demos including a live shaping bay where onlookers could view the process live!

There were plenty of good vibes for opening day and that seemed to continue throughout the 3 day show! Loads of Freesurf fans were audible to commend us on “keeping the core magazine” alive and still many others had also noticed our large up tick in digital media activations and options. The whole affair was a great sneak peek to what’s on tap for surf retail and consumer stoke and a big shot in the arm forcasting a solid 2019 both in print and digital!

It was all smiles at Hurley HQ.

Torq crew prez John Connor flashing a shaka

Hoping to collab with El Salvador tourism for a summer strike mission.

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IND USTRY NOTES

Coco Ho Joins the Reef Family Fans of the North Shore’s Coco Ho (there are many of them) will be happy to hear that Reef just picked her up as their latest team rider.

“We’re stoked to introduce Coco Ho as the newest member of our Reef family. Her persistence, positivity, and progressive style continue to inspire us.” - Reef #BeachFreely

ISA Adaptive Hawaii Surf Team Wins 4th

Next Up

Pine Trees February 9-10

Download entry forms at our new website!

www.nssahawaii.org

The Stance ISA World Adaptive Surfing Championship was created to give surfers with physical disabilities an opportunity to compete and display their talents in a Paralympic-style, world-class competition. The event has experienced unprecedented growth since the inaugural edition in 2015 and has spurred the growth of the sport around the world, with many nations now holding National Championships of their own to select their National Teams to compete.

This year, 120 athletes from 24 nations competed. The Hawai'i Adaptive Surf Team proudly took home the 4th place team medal.

Athletes compete in their individual divisions and all team points are tabulated throughout the competition to determine placement for the team world title.

In the individual divisions Hawai'i won 4 medals: Ann Yoshida - Gold Medal (AS-4 Women's), Meira Durate Va'a - Silver Medal (AS-3 Women's), Meira Durate Va'a - Bronze Medal (AS-3 Open), and Darian Haynes (AS-1 Women's). The Hawai'i Adaptive Surf Team represented proudly and with sheer determination.

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Two rides with two very different outcomes and views. Teahupo’o in Tahiti plays host for this tow surfer's dream while the other surfer goes over the falls. Photo: Zak Noyle