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Keito Matsuoka Photo: Christa Funk #stillfree
MANULELE AWARDS
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VOLCOM PIPE PRO
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DA HUI BACKDOOR SHOOTOUT
F R E E
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Preparation meets opportunity. Evan Valiere reaping the rewards. Photo: Mike Latronic
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Free Parking
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Cover Story
C O N T E N T S
12 Manulele Awards 20 Tribute to Marcus Biju 22 2019 Volcom Pipe Pro 28 White Rhino Film Review 36 Shane Dorian's Keiki Classic 34 Aperture 46 Grom Report 50 Wahine 54 Surf Art 58 Industry Notes 64 Last Look
Photo: Mike Latronic
C O V E R
S T O R Y
“Shooting directly into the barrel at Pipeline can be elusive. Pipeline doesn’t break in the same place every wave. It’s like Goldilocks and the Three Bears: I’m too far in, I’m too far out, or I’m just right. Each day that DaHui Backdoor Shootout was held had epic moments where all the ingredients came together perfectly. This day stands out to me because my cookies got tossed by north waves more than once; I paid a lot of my winter dues. Keito Magauoka had two amazing waves during the contest — his twelve point ride, and this wave during Team Japan’s second heat. I could tell I was exactly where I wanted to be. His ability, the wave quality, and mid-afternoon light were ideal. The bonus lip flare made it an image I won’t soon forget.” - Christa Funk, Water Photographer ______ “My first time on the North Shore was when I was 12. Now I’m 28. Since my first day on island, my dream was to catch one of the best Pipeline waves and complete the ride. On this wave during Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, I tried to pull in with no grab, but the wave was super powerful and my board was going too fast, so I grabbed it and tried to stall again. It was a beautiful emerald green room. Such a beautiful Pipeline wave to remember.” - Keito Matsuoka
SU RF R IB BY. CO M
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E D I T O R ’ S
Aloha and thank you for reading Freesurf Magazine! It's a dream come true to work as a journalist in this industry, to tell the inspiring stories of surfers and global explorers who motivate us to live life more fully in the outdoors. As the new Managing Editor of Freesurf, it’s my intention to keep the last standing monthly print mag in surfing and beach lifestyle alive and thriving for the benefit of our sport and the local community on the Hawaiian Islands.
admiration. Our connection to the ocean holds such infinite power. It’s in moments of fight-or-flight that our character is tested, our spirit awakened, and the realization that we are more than alive overloads the senses. 2019 kicked off with some of the best Pipe conditions we’ve seen in years just in time for Da Hui Backdoor Shootout. Freesurf was there capturing every moment as Tyler Newton from Hanalei topped the leaderboard. In this issue of the mag, you’ll see some of our favorite moments from that historic week of pristine conditions at the Proving Grounds. It was heavy, it was beautiful, it was glorious... We hope you enjoy some of our favorite angles from the event in this issue.
As the birthplace of surfing, Hawai’i represents the origin, the Mother, the lifesource. Her mana and spiritual energy is undeniable, where mountains tower over the sea. I was conceived on Kauai, learned to surf on Maui, and call Oah'u home. My gratitude to these islands and the surf community is beyond words — but I am going to try— because the Hawaiian Islands have given me everything, and I hope to give back even more.
It's an honor to be a part of the Freesurf team, and I'm looking forward to making a positive impact through journalism. I hope to inspire you through empowering Talk Story and moving imagery, depicting the power of the waves and their influence on the human spirit.
I find creative inspiration in the power of the sea, particularly in big surf and deep water breaks. Over the years working on the Big Wave Tour, I’ve found that fear (when transformed) can motivate us to push beyond preconceived limits and give vital purpose to our days on Earth. I value the work ethic instilled in big wave surfers that train hard in preparation for the storm. This picture I shot of Mark Healey in the Outer Reefs earlier this winter encapsulates that
Mark Healey. Photo: Shannon Reporting
N O T E
Mahalo, Shannon Reporting Managing Editor @shannonreporting
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Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic [ P I P E L I N E
P E R F E C T I O N ]
Managing Editor, Social Media Manager Shannon Reporting Art Director John Weaver Production & Marketing Assistant Eli Viszolay
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Keito Matsuoka Photo: Christa Funk #stillfree
MANULELE AWARDS
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VOLCOM PIPE PRO
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DA HUI BACKDOOR SHOOTOUT
Sales & Customer Service Coordinator Tonya Grace Goldberg Contributing Writers Matt Bender, Neal Miyake, Rick Memsic , Kyveli Sophia, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting Copy Editor Kyveli Sophia West Coast Distribution Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395 Hawai`i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395 Staff Photographers Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, Keoki Saguibo, Andrew Storer Videographers Chris Latronic, Andrew Oliver Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brent Bielmann, Brian Bielmann, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Pete Frieden, Manny "Gonzo" Gonzalez, Shane Grace, Dane Grady, Andy Hawes, Alexandra Kahn, Zak Noyle, Sebastian Rojas Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Follow us on social media @freesurfmag
FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2015
Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am
2019
MANULELE AWARDS Celebrating Hawai’i’s Leading Watermen and Women Story by Shannon Reporting Photos: Andy Hawes, Eli Viszolay, and John Weaver
Freesurf Magazine was thrilled to bring back our Manulele Awards to celebrate Hawai'i’s leading Watermen and Women! After months of public voting from our audience and surf fans, it was time to reveal the winners. We gathered the cream of the crop at Restaurant 604 on February 2nd, an incredible venue overlooking the water near Pearl Harbor.
Following the award presentation, Natalina Dance Company wowed the crowd with a fun samba dance, getting everyone off their feet and on the dance floor. A live concert by the Typical Hawaiians band jammed reggae tunes following the awards for an after-party. Open bar was provided thanks to our sponsors: Pacifico Beer, Herradura Tequila, and Jack Daniel’s.
A breathtaking Hawaiian chant kicked off the night with traditional dance performances, setting the tone to celebrate the islands’ talented athletes. Surfers were dressed to impress, looking fabulous and ready for a fun evening. Publisher Mike Latronic greeted the crowd, as co-hosts Chris Latronic and Shannon Reporting introduced the award categories. Beautiful glass wave sculptures awaited the winners, made by David Wight Glass Art.
You can watch the Manulele Awards Show coming soon to KHON2 and KHII5.
• • • •
Most Progressive: Seth Moniz Web Surfer: Koa Rothman Ambassador of Aloha: Tammy Moniz Big Wave Charger: Billy Kemper
Congrats to all the nominees! The people spoke, they voted, and the winners are:
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All-Around Waterman: Kai Lenny Lifetime Achievement: Eddie Rothman Top Female Surfer: Coco Ho Top Male Surfer: John Florence
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Coco Ho
A W A R D S
Josh Moniz
Billy Kemper “I have been nominated in different countries for various awards, but to have a local one that’s really dedicated to the athletes and surfers here in the state of Hawai’i is really cool. I think it’s something that’s going to grow and can go a long way to really help the future and the next generation of surfing. I’m definitely here to support it. Congrats to all the guys that were nominated, especially Nathan Florence. He’s pushed me a lot over the last couple years. More specifically, he’s really stood out and pushed the level of big wave surfing. It’s really cool to Typical Hawaiians
be a part of this and travel around the world with him.”
Billy Kemper and wife Tahiti
Mike Latronic and brother Steve
Mahina Garcia and Nathan Florence
Hosts Chris Latronic and Shannon Reporting
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Kerry Tokoro’s M7 model is the perfect go-to board for those days when the waves get too big or powerful for your everyday shortboard. The clean lines, sophisticated bottom contours and rounded pintail design combine to make this board fast and loose, yet solid and stable. Ext foam under the chest area helps the M7 Extra paddle and catch waves easily, and maintain its speed through flat sections. The continuous curve of the outline draws smooth lines across the wave face and holds tight through hard gauging turns. The M7’s bottom features a fair amount of rocker with a mix of single to double concave flowing to a slight vee off of the tail. This allows the board to fit into steep sections of the wave and keeps it feeling loose and maneuverable. The M7 is a favorite of HIC Teamriders like Josh Moniz, Joel Centeio and Kainehe Hunt when surfing Sunset, Pipeline or other big wave spots. If you’re looking for a step-up design that won’t sacrifice your performance in bigger waves, the M7 is the right board for you.
Josh Moniz, Backdoor Pipe
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M A N U L E L E
Koa Smith and Travis Smith
Billy Kemper, Eddie Rothman and Koa Rothman
A W A R D S
Natalina Dance Company
Koa Rothman
Coco Ho “This is so huge for the whole Hawaiian community to have something so strong. We’ve had Freesurf Magazine backing us since we were little and it’s our home base.”
Jason Shibata, Coco Ho and Dave Riddle
C-Stars
Joel Centeio and wife Ashley
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ENJOY THE WILD LIFE
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Nathan claiming for his brother John
A W A R D S
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Kai Lenny “This is probably the most local award ceremony we have for surfing here in Hawai'i. To be able to get voted from people of Hawai'i is almost better than anywhere else because you’re kind of getting the approval of people you’ve always looked up to.” Kai Lenny
Chris Latronic congratulates Seth Moniz
Manulele Awards trophies
Tammy Moniz, Ambassador of Aloha for all the right reasons.
Justin Chilcoat and the Honolulu Buick GMC Cadillac crew
T R I B U T E
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Marcus Biju Story and photo: Manuel “Gonzo” Gonzalez
Just after sunrise on January 17, 2019, at around 7:18 am, our friend from the ocean Marcus Biju lost his life in his favorite place: The Banzai Pipeline. “Ocean Safety officials say Biju was critically injured when he was discovered unresponsive Thursday morning,” reported Hawai'i News Now. “Officials say other surfers and beachgoers immediately began performing cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR). Paramedics transported him to the Kahuku Medical Center in critical condition, where he later died.” The cause of his death hasn't been officially reported, but that doesn't matter as much as how Marcus lived his life and how many people he touched while alive on Earth. You see, Marcus was well-known and well-liked on this island. According the talk story he shared with me, he arrived to O`ahu around 1992 and stayed for good. He was the most dedicated bodyboarder on this island in my eyes, always the first guy out every day that the waves were firing at Pipe or Sandy Beach or Castle Rock. He was the one that spent the most time in the water, sometimes hours upon hours, with his face and bald head head full of white sunblock because he knew the sessions were going to be long.
He just loved riding the boogie in Hawaiian waters and it was never enough for him. He was the original "barrel-holic" barrel hunter; -- he even had his own hashtag #BarrelhoolicsAnonymous, also tattooed! What made Marcus really special was his personality: he was always stoked, and loved to share and celebrate life with everyone else. His friendly vibe was his uniqueness. He loved to cruise and share life stories and knowledge. Marcus always kept an eye on everyone in the water when the waves were nuts. He even had his share of rescues, helping others in crazy situations while risking his own life along the way. Everyone loved Marcus! He was one of a kind and we are all going to miss him deeply forever on this island! We will share more details on his paddle out memorial as the planning unfolds. Marcus: Thanks for everything, and we will not forget you braddah! Aloha!
2019 Volcom Pipe Pro Crowns Jack Robinson By Shannon Reporting
Jack Robinson brought his fearless approach to finals day and posted the event's highest heat total in the process -- a 19.57. WSL/ Heff
Bringing the competitive season on the North Shore to a close, the Volcom Pipe Pro gathered the top of the crop in front of the iconic Pipe House for the World Surf League 3000 event. It wasn’t until the final day, however, that Pipeline started to turn on for the athletes to showcase what they’re made out of. Hoots and hollers galore rose from the peanut gallery huddled at Gerry Lopez’s house from the Quarterfinals through the Final, each heat a nail-biter as the swell increased in size. At the end of the day, it was Australia’s Jack Robinson who found the right waves at Backdoor to seize the trophy, with North Shore local Barron Mamiya in a close second, Reef Heazlewood from Australia in third, and Volcom team rider Balaram Stack completing the podium, representing for New York with his first QS final finish. "I'm on top of the world! I couldn't have more confidence to start the year off with a win here -- it's about as good as it gets," Robinson 22
told the WSL. "It's the hardest contest all year. If a wave comes, it comes. You have to be so on to win this contest. You can do all the preparation in the world to be ready, but if the wave doesn't come to you then you're left on the outside looking in." Runner-up Barron Mamiya, 19, earned the "Life in the Bowl" award for best barrel after he drove through a Backdoor tube for a perfect 10, lighting up the beach full of fans frothing for the local phenom. "I think I had a great day, even though I didn't win. Obviously I wanted to, but I had three really great heats that I'm really excited about," Mamiya told the WSL. "Pipeline is a very special wave to me, and I've always studied the best guys out here like John [John Florence], Jamie [O'Brien], and Kelly [Slater], and I just want to surf like them out here. This is a big confidence-booster, and I'll look to keep backing this up."
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Balaram Stack, no stranger to Pipeline foam balls. WSL/ Heff
New Yorker Balaram Stack was another crowd favorite, becoming the first Volcom team rider to ever make it to the finals in Volcom Pipe Pro history - which is quite surprising given the tenacity of their surf team. The Long Beach, NY native was supported by his extended family and friends from NY in attendance on the third floor VIP section of the Pipe House cheering him on. For him, every advancing heat felt like a win.
Barron Mamiya found the day's gems and nearly pulled off a win for his home island of Oah'u, Hawai'i. WSL/ Heff
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"This was beyond any of my expectations and it's crazy just having everyone here for my first Final," Stack said. "It's my favorite wave in the world, and you couldn't ask for much more. I'm taking this home forever. Right when I was going down for the heat every time, all the boys just yelling was probably the best part.” Oah'u’s Kalani David was awarded the prestigious Todd Chesser Hard Charger Award, presented by the late surfer's mother Jeannie Chesser for showing heart and remaining humble both in and out of the water while putting on a great display of surfing. "This is even bigger for me than winning the event," David said. "Todd was always a household name for all of us and just to win this, I'm honestly shaken."
Volcom Pipe Pro Final Results 1 – Jack Robinson (AUS) 14.87 3,000 points 2 – Barron Mamiya (HAW) 12.67 2,250 points 3 – Reef Heazlewood (AUS) 9.57 1,680 points 4 – Balaram Stack (USA) 6.93 1,580 points
Kalani David (R) embracing Jeannie Chesser (Center), accepting the Todd Chesser Award WSL/ Keoki
F I L M
R E V I E W
White Rhino
Produced by Brent Storm, Brian Bielmann Film Review by Kyveli Sophia
“Just as I’m putting my leash on, Kelly Slater is taking his off. He said, ‘That’s not what I’m here for,’ and I said, ‘That’s exactly what I’m here for.’” - Dave Wassel on paddling into 50-foot Cloudbreak, White Rhino It’s hard to string together the appropriate words for a film that leaves you speechless. Several groups of film aficionados have managed to find some suitable ones: “Best Surf Film” from the good people at Big Island’s Waimea Ocean Film Festival in January, and a similar sentiment from the Carolina Surf Film Festival with their “Best Cinematography” nod. Undoubtedly, the 250 people packed into the sold-out premiere at Surfer Bar back in December were reduced to cheers and the occasional well-placed profanity as footage of three of the biggest swells of the past decade were coupled with the terrifying, hilarious, and inspiring backstories of some unforgettable moments in surfing, as told by six of the most fearless big wave chargers and two of surfing’s most ruthless and talented photographers. What started as a passion project between Canadian filmmaker Brent Storm and North Shore legend Brian Bielmann is now one of the most talkedabout surf films gracing the festival circuit in 2019. White Rhino focuses on three back-to-back historic mega swells striking two iconic destinations. We witness Cloudbreak’s opening day in July 2011, just months after the Fijian government opened the wave to the public, Teahupo’o’s mesmerizing Code Red swell in August of the same year, and a second helping of XXL Cloudbreak that epically disrupted the Volcom Fiji Pro in June 2012 and granted Dave Wassel a 50-foot deathbed memory of a wave that Mark Healey called “the greatest wave that never won anything.” (It did, however, earn Wassel the cover of Surfer Magazine and a swift ticket out of the lineup, recounted in the film by Wassel, Healy, and Kai “Borg” Garcia.)
The stories told by the surfers, photographers, and water safety unveiled had-to-be-there moments that add an extra emotion to such events as that time Reef McIntosh accidentally sent a jet ski straight at Raimana Van Bastolaer, who managed to duck under it just in time while threading a massive barrel. Also shared are the stories of how Peter “Joli” Wilson lost having his sequence of that moment, the most widely-published incident of the swell, to Brian Bielmann’s shots because he was in the shower, and how, ultimately, extra hoops were added to covering dangerous surf from the channel as a result of the widespread captures. Bruce Irons, Kohl Christensen, and Nathan Fletcher talk us through each of their “best wave of my life” rides courtesy of the Code Red swell, and we follow Kalani Chapman through a 15-second barrel that will leave you slack-jawed. At the end of the movie you’re left with one undeniable conclusion: big wave junkies are not normal people. They look at what many may view as certain death, and all they see are unicorns and white rhinos. 28
*EXCLUSIVE TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
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Shane Dorian's Keiki Classic By Andrew Oliver Photos Boo Salinas & Ryan Moss
Shane Dorian’s annual Keiki Classic celebrated its 24th year at Banyans in Kailua-Kona on January 19, 2019. The Big Island of Hawai`i offered small but consistent surf with ample opportunity for the groms to battle it out, and just enough juice for the visiting pros to wow the crowd in the pre-final exhibition. This year’s expression session featured Barron Mamiya, Zeke Lau, Seth Moniz, Torrey Meister, and 11-time world champion Kelly Slater.
Meister competed in his first Keiki Classic at 8 years old and recalled fondly, “if there was any contest that you wanted to win as a grom, it was the Shane Dorian contest.” With a career unparalleled in the surf industry -- from his early days as a Momentum Generation upstart, to his 11 years on the WSL Championship Tour, through his recent incarnation as a big wave colossus -- Dorian has been a hero for surf fans around the globe for decades. Yet, for the majority of the Keiki Classic competitors, he is known simply as “Uncle Shane.” And he’s stoked on the new title, going as far as changing the official name of the event to Uncle Shane’s Keiki Classic for years to come. His maintained approachable nature and humility, coupled with his incredible performances in the water, have continued to inspire groms for generations.
“They’re all here for the kids,” Dorian told Freesurf Magazine. “It’s an incredible opportunity for the groms to meet some of their heroes.” Humble to the core, Dorian is happy to shine the light on his fellow pros. Shane was particularly proud to have Keiki Classic vet Torrey Meister return as an accomplished pro. “It’s crazy to have people who have been in the event for so long,” Dorian said. “Torrey grew up surfing this beach, won this event as a kid, and now he’s a seasoned professional.”
“From 2-foot Banyans to 30-foot Jaws, Shane Dorian is still the best surfer in the world in my eyes,” said Torrey Meister. “So I guess he’ll just be my hero for the rest of my life.” 30
S H A N E D O R I A N ' S K E I K I S U R F C L A S S I C
2019 Shane Dorian Keiki Classic Results
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DaHui Backdoor Shootout 2019 By Shannon Reporting The opening weeks of 2019 saw some of the best Pipe conditions in years, just in time for Da Hui Backdoor Shootout. Second and even Third Reef Pipe was breaking, making things interesting as surfers pondered over board selection and their placement in the lineup. Freesurf was there capturing every moment as Tyler Newton from Hanalei topped the leaderboard. In this issue, we’re sending praise to the Pipe slayers who paddled out during that historic week of pristine conditions at the Proving Grounds.
Photo: Manny "Gonzo" Gonzalez
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Eala Stewart Photo: Keoki
Keegan Edwards Photo: Keoki
Eli Olson Photo: Keoki
Nathan Fletcher Photo: Manny "Gonzo" Gonzalez
Makai McNamara Photo: Keoki
Seth Moniz Photo: Keoki
R E P O R T Neal Miyake
G R O M
Luke Tema By Shannon Reporting
Barrels are his forte, and his favorite part about surfing. Born in Waikiki, 12-year-old grom Luke Tema has spent his early years on the Hawaiian Island of Oah`u searching for tubes. You may have seen him out at Pipeline; he’s definitely one of the youngest surfers to ever paddle battle the pack. “It’s fun surfing Pipe, but I don’t get many waves. No one lets me go [chuckles]. I don’t want to fight for waves out there when all the Uncles are on the peak. I just sit on the shoulder. When it’s smaller I go and get a lot of waves. I like paddling out with my dad [Eric Tema] because he’ll help me get a lot of waves.” The humble grom respectfully waits his turn and demonstrates a key point that not all surfers his age usually grasp the importance of patience. Freesurfing aside, if you throw a contest jersey on him, Luke Tema turns into a lethal threat. Currently ranked #1 in NSSA Hawaii, his
introduction to competitive surfing began at 5 years old in the Haleiwa Menehune contest finishing runner-up. He got his first perfect 10 at Honolua Bay in the Legends of the Bay contest, with third overall. Last summer, he placed runner-up in NSSA Regionals to qualify for US Champs. During the last NSSA contest in Lahaina, Maui, Luke won 3 out of 3 of his divisions, placing him at the top of the rankings for NSSA Hawaii. It’s always difficult to balance the busy lifestyle of competitive surfing with school, but Luke and his family make it work: “I go to school until 2:40 pm, and then right after class, my parents take me to surf wherever it’s good.” Luke attends Mid-Pac [Mid-Pacific Institute] in Honolulu, currently in 6th grade. With a bright future ahead, we are sure to see much more of the young phenom, so we met up with Luke to get the full scoop.
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Hurley, RJ Surfboards, Matunas Wax, Freak Traction, Carve, Sun Bum, Luz Go-to board: 5’2’’ Robin Johnston, it feels good in different conditions. Favorite subject in school: PE, because you just play. Top 3 favorite spots to surf: Right here at Velzyland, Ala Moana Bowls, and a secret spot!
Surf grub:
Favorite surfers:
After surfing, my favorite food is poke.
John John, Seth and Josh Moniz, because they are nice and super good at getting barreled.
How to deal with a loss: Just go surf it off, and work on what you can improve.
Best part about surfing: 10 years from now: I like doing turns, but for me, getting barreled is the funnest part of surfing. It’s fun being out in the water with a small group of friends and getting barreled. I like surfing with Nalu Deodato, Shion Crawford, Noah Kawaguchi, Lucas Reed…
I want to be on the Tour and win a World Title. Competitive surfing is fun… when you win, it’s fun.
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W A H I N E
LUANA COELHO SILVA By Kyveli Sophia
Whether you’re in the lineup at Sunset Beach, on the sand at that storied break, or anywhere on Oah'u’s North Shore, you have a good chance of hearing about Luana Silva. More specifically, you’ll hear tales about the searing power turns she lays down, ripping into the face of any wave she stands on. The 14-year-old North Shore local has been surfing here so long (since age 3) and charging so hard that this isn’t the first time her ripping ways have been featured in this magazine — Silva was already garnering attention
and stacking sponsors the first time we featured her at just 10 years old. Some things have changed: back then, her quiver was full of Bushman boards and her step-up was a 4’11; these days, she’s riding Tokoros and her favorite go-to board is a 5’9 5+. And some things have stayed the same: she still attends local public schools (from Sunset Elementary to Kahuku High), she’s still gracing the top of the podium (including recent U14 and U18 division wins at the USA Surfing National Championships in June). And she’s still routinely called Lulu, far more than Luana, the Hawaiian word for “happy” and the perfect name for this rising surf star. When asked “What always makes you smile?” she replied, “Anything really. Anything that makes me laugh.
I love to smile.” With people already calling her the next Carissa Moore and a rapidlygrowing confidence on waves of consequence, it looks like Lulu will find many reasons to keep smiling in 2019.
What are your favorite breaks in Hawai'i and outside of Hawai'i? I love V-Land, Sunset, Rocky’s, Pupukea, and there is a wave in the Maldives called Sultons — super long right and one of my favorite waves now. And I love Lowers. How’s the vibe out in the lineup at Sunset and how has that wave improved your surfing? I love surfing Sunset; it's one of my favorite waves ever! It’s definitely a very challenging wave to surf and figure out the lineup — it can also be tough getting waves from the locals. This wave has also helped out with my confidence on surfing bigger waves, and I’m happy I
have the confidence to get out there and get a couple. What’s the biggest challenge you have ever been faced with while surfing? How did you overcome it? I've faced a lot of challenges while surfing, but the biggest challenge I think I’ve faced over the past two years was getting used to bigger waves. Last year I started to face my fear and take it step-by-step surfing in the bigger waves, and now I feel more comfortable out there knowing there’s nothing to be afraid of. What's the biggest wave you've ever surfed, and do you have interest in surfing big Waimea, Jaws, or any other big wave spot? The biggest wave I have ever surfed was towing in with my dad and Gabriela Bryan out at 15-foot Phantoms just outside of V-Land. It was one of the best experiences I've ever had, and I can’t wait for another good swell to do it again. I think it would be a good experience for me to go and surf Waimea and Jaws. I would be up for the challenge.
Mike Latronic
Hometown: Waialua, Oah'u DOB: May 7, 2004 Current sponsors: Billabong, Sticky Bumps surf wax, Scarfini Fins, Ono Yo Hawai'i
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One life, right? Don’t blow it.
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Sebastian Rojas
W A H I N E
What are your goals in surfing? My goals in surfing are to win a WSL Junior first, start doing Qualifying Series events, do good in the Qualifying Series events, make it on tour, and, hopefully, win a World Title.
amazing rail game.
improving?
relax.
Tell us about your current quiver. I am very fortunate to be able to ride such amazing boards by Wade Tokoro. In my current quiver, I have seven boards: three are step-ups and the last four are short boards. My go-to
My favorite maneuvers to do are those big rail carves. I am trying to work on reverses now, but what I really want to learn is how to do aerial maneuvers.
Where do you go to school and what would you be if you weren't an athlete? I go to Kahuku High School — yes, I go to school, I am not homeschooled. If I wasn't pursuing a career as an athlete, I would like to be a physical therapist or a trainer.
How do you like to train and stay fit for surfing?
What recent achievements have been most meaningful to you? The most meaningful [contest] achievement so far was winning the U18 Governor’s Cup at USA Surfing Nationals at Lower Trestles in San Clemente, California. Achieving that at just 14 years old felt pretty special to me. Who do you look up to in surfing and why? I look up to more of the up-andcoming girls like Brisa Hennessy, Macy Callaghan, Caroline Marks, Summer Macedo, all those girls. But my all-time favorites have to be Stephanie Gilmore and Carissa Moore-Steph because of her beautiful style and Carissa because she can do any type of maneuver — she’s good in the air, can get barreled, and has an
Where are your favorite places that you've traveled to? Some of my favorite places I've traveled to are Tahiti, Bali, Mexico, Brazil, and I just recently went to the Maldives last summer on a boat trip. It was one of my favorite trips of all-time!
What do you wish for the future generations of surfer girls?
board (my favorite board) is…a 5’9” and the model is a 5+, my favorite model by Tokoro. It is also the same model board that Seth Moniz rode to make the Tour.
I train in the gym with Kahea Hart two times a week and surf train with him once during the week. I also do Kid Peligro’s Ginastica Natural.
What are your favorite maneuvers to do and what are you currently working on
What are your other favorite hobbies besides surfing? Yoga…It helps me stretch and
I wish for girls [to try] anything the guys are doing — just go for it! Push yourself, because no one else is going to do it for you.
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S U R F
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Osta Lange Story and photos: Alexandra Kahn
Influenced by the colors and cultures of her childhood, Osta Lange is a talented painter located on the Big Island of Hawai`i. Her paintings are bright and loud because, according to her, “Color is life! It would be a challenge for me not to use it.” Lange pulls at the emotional heart strings through specific colors, such as blue which “stimulates a sense of innocence and calm.” As a child, Lange’s family spent many years living amongst the diverse wildlife of Central America and South Africa, and she finds inspiration from her past and the natural world around her. “I remember there were leopards living on the mountains behind us in South Africa, and baboons,” Osta recounts to Freesurf Magazine. “It was pretty special to have the presence of wild animals near us. My brother would also bring home interesting
snakes, and Mom always walked around in cheetah and zebra tights, so everything was pretty exotic at home,” she recalled with a laugh, pinpointing the reasons we see these animals and cultural interests appear in many of her paintings today. Her travels also impacted her world view and interests. Lange believes that “travel helps people to see humanity as a whole.” She hopes that by capturing the colors, life, and spirit of natural elements and wildlife of the jungles and oceans, she can bring the viewer’s awareness back to nature. Ultimately, her goal is to promote nature conservation and be more actively involved in conservation initiatives. While art has always been a part of her life, Lange started painting around the age of 17 at the University of Hawai'i Manoa’s Art Department. Her preferred
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medium is acrylic, yet she also works with oils and ink on wood canvases of all sizes. “Experimenting keeps things interesting, but large pieces are all-encompassing and fun,” she tells us. Lange explained that painting is mostly to express how much she loves life, with “life” representing the gamut of the natural world, discovery, travel, music, the erotic, experiences, collective consciousness, and higher states of awareness. “The act of painting quickly becomes an experience,” Lange explained. “This love of life inside me has to give fruit, to be expressed…and when I'm finished, I still get energy back from each one. I guess that is the self-expression we all desire and need in whatever we are doing. To express ourselves is to channel that deep love inside. I feel it is intuitive when I realize a piece is complete,
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and I hope that people feel something when they see my work.” Every artist approaches their creation and process differently, often changing over the artist’s lifetime as they develop as a person. Lange described her unique approach as, “usually I'll start with something [like] an emotion, one basic image or color. Even if I’m unsure of what I'm going to paint, if I have one of those elements it will lead me to the next thing.” She added, “I like layers and surprises. However, lately I've been putting more forethought [into my work]...I like the deliberate approach as well. It’s good to change it up.” Viewing Lange’s works in gallery exhibits at venues like Barela at the Mauna Lani, Thomadro Haleiwa, and The Gallery of Great Things in Waimea, one notices that she likes to create full collections. Each collection is a unique, direct reflection of an artist continuously inspired by life around her. “A body of work says more than a single piece. When it’s done, it’s done, and then you consciously move into new territory,” she said. Mining inspiration from other artists around the world, the Hawaiian islands, life’s mysteries, fascinating people she might encounter, and personal experiences, she reveals, “I do not know boredom. Whatever I might be involved in at any moment comes through artistically, like a chameleon’s changing shades. I was doing martial arts a while ago and unconsciously started doing Japanese-inspired graphic ink drawings and mokuhanga [woodblock printing]. Inspiration is everywhere if you have a curious mind.” Lange loves collaborating with other artists, as well as seeking inspiration from them. She believes that “as artists, it’s very important that we uplift each other, learn and encourage one another freely and openly -- not just for ourselves, but in the name of art. Like anything, if we’re strong in numbers, the nature of collaboration can really impact our world in a positive manner. More art, more nature, more love.” You can find more of Lange’s art on Instagram @osta_artista and ostaartista.com.
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I N DUSTRY NOTE S “Being a part of Rip Curl has been more than just a sponsorship,” says Mick. “Having the relationship I have had with the company and the people within it, including the Founders Claw Warbrick and Brian Singer, has been a huge part of my career and the last 20 years of my life. Signing this 10 year deal is another cornerstone in that relationship, and I can’t wait to get out there and get on The Search!.” Mick will spend the next 10 years on The Search, finding breaks in remote countries, chasing empty lineups and perfect waves. He will also pursue his personal businesses, MF Softboards as well as Balter Breweries, and will work on and for the environmental causes he finds passion with. We look forward to sharing this all with him.
Mick Fanning
Rip Curl Announces 10-Year Contract with Mick Fanning
ISA / Ben Reed
In celebration of 50 Years of Surfing at Rip Curl, we are pleased to announce a lifetime contract with the most important surfer in our company history, 3x World Champion Mick Fanning. After two decades and three World Titles with the company, Mick has signed a 10-year lifetime deal that will usher in the next phase of his career with Rip Curl.
Sally Fitzgibbons
North Shore Grom Nalu Deodato Joins Volcom "So honored and stoked to be a part of the Volcom team. Thank you so much to everyone who believed in me over the years. Big thanks to Dave Riddle, Katsuko Riddle, and Jason Shibata for the opportunity."
Kauai's Stone Abubo Joins Brother, Tiger, on Volcom Team After winning this winter's Live Like Sion contest in Poipu, 13year old Stone Abubo joins his little bro on the Volcom Hawaii surf team. "Grateful for the opportunity. #VOLCOMfamily #truetothis "
ISA Partners with NBC Sports Group The International Surfing Association proudly announced an extended broadcast agreement with NBC Sports Group this month following the successful 2018 broadcasts of the ISA World Championship Series highlight programs that shared these elite events to new audiences around the globe. The three-year agreement will transmit all ISA Global Event highlight programs on the Olympic Channel: Home of Team USA in the United States, showcasing surfing to over 35 million households. The deal will include coverage of the sport's historic Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2020 Summer Games. Olympic Channel: Home of Team USA is a partnership between the International Olympic Committee, the United States Olympic Committee, and NBC Universal.
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Angelina Yossa Joins the Hurley Squad "Beyond stoked to join the Hurley Ohana!"
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IND USTRY NOTES
A TRIP FOR TWO ON ALASKA AIRLINES only at Jamba Kapahulu located at 625 Kapahulu Avenue
Pat O’Connell. Photo: Latronic
One grand prize winner
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WSL Commissioner Kieren Perrow Steps Down, Pat O’Connell Succeeds The World Surf League (WSL) recently announced that after six years in the position, Commissioner Kieren Perrow is stepping down to take on a supporting role at the WSL, which will leverage his decades of experience in evolving and championing the technical aspects of the sport. "I've been a part of professional surfing my entire life, and I never imagined it would get to the level it’s at today,” Perrow said. “To be able to live out my dream on tour as a competitor, while also being a surfer rep and board member, was a massive high point in my career. However, getting to transition into my role as Commissioner and foster new talent and development pathways for surfers, has been even more rewarding. I'm really proud of my team and the WSL for all we have achieved together. With the role now needing to be based in Los Angeles, I’m taking this opportunity to step down and spend more time in Australia with my family, while continuing to be a part of professional surfing in a more focused capacity." Pat O’Connell, former WSL Championship Tour (CT) competitor and current VP of Sports Marketing at Hurley, will succeed Perrow in the newly titled WSL role of SVP, Tours & Head of Competition (formerly titled “The Commissioner”), overseeing the Commissioner’s Office roles and responsibilities. O’Connell will be based out of WSL Headquarters in Los Angeles, California. "Words can't describe the amount of respect I have for the WSL, Kieren and his team,” O’Connell said. “From competitor to surfer rep to board member to commissioner, he really has given his all for surfing to get it to where it is today and I couldn't be more thankful. It’s super hard to leave my family at Hurley as it’s been such a huge part of my life for more than 15 years. I’ve had an incredible experience at Hurley, but I'm beyond excited for the opportunity to lead the competitive aspects of surfing and further elevate the sport. I believe in the WSL, I believe in what it can be, and I'm stoked."
Sarah Jual
KENUIKITCHEN.COM • (808) 638-5000 @KENUIKITCHEN
O’Connell will officially begin his role on March 11, overseeing the development of all of the WSL’s tours - Championship Tour, Qualifying Series, Pro Junior Series, Big Wave Tour, Longboard Tour and Specialty Events and Series.
Edrick Baldwin Photo: Mike Latronic
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Lakey Peterson
FOX Sports and World Surf League Sign Milestone Media Rights Deal FOX Sports and the World Surf League (WSL) announced they have reached an agreement making FOX Sports the exclusive U.S. television broadcaster for the WSL 2019 Men’s and Women’s Championship Tour (CT), as well as the Big Wave Tour. FOX Sports will telecast more than 500 hours of WSL programming, including live contests and highlight shows, across FOX, FS1, FS2 and the FOX Sports app in 2019. WSL programming premieres on FOX and the FOX Sports app with a one-hour 2019 WORLD SURF LEAGUE PREVIEW SHOW on Saturday, March 23 at 12:30 p.m. ET / 9:30 a.m. PT, highlighting the current champions, rising contenders and hard-charging rookies for the new season. The 2019 Championship Tour begins on Wednesday, April 3 in Australia with the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast and Boost Mobile Pro on FS2 and the FOX Sports app. FS2 will telecast all Championship Tour contests live or close to live throughout the year. FS2 will also present the US Open of Surfing, the premiere men’s and women’s Qualifying Series contest that takes place in Huntington Beach, California each summer from July 27 to August 4. In addition, FS1 will feature eight, one-hour highlight shows after select contests are over. Check local listings for show times and dates.
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Download entry forms at our new website!
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2019 WSL Championship Tour Event April 3 - 13: Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast and Boost Mobile Pro, Australia - Men / Women April 17 - April 27: Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach, Australia - Men / Women May 13 - May 25: Bali Pro, Indonesia - Men / Women May 29 - June 9: Margaret River Pro, Australia - Men / Women June 20 - 28: Oi Rio Pro, Brazil - Men / Women July 9 - 22: J-Bay Open, South Africa - Men / Women August 21 - September 1: Tahiti Pro Teahupo'o, Tahiti - Men September 19 - 22: Surf Ranch Pro, California, USA - Men / Women October 3 - 13: Quiksilver Pro France and Roxy Pro France, Men / Women October 16 - 28: MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal, Men / Women November 25 - December 6: Hawaii Pro, Hawaii - Women December 8 - 20: Billabong Pipe Masters, Hawaii - Men 2019 WSL Big Wave Tour Events: Mavericks Challenge – Half Moon Bay, California Nazaré Challenge - Portugal Jaws Challenge - Maui, Hawaii
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Pipe sends another backlit beauty. Kiron Jabour's gaze says it all. Photo: Christa Funk