Wahine
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Kelis Kaleopa'a Photo: Will Walling #stillfree
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Latai Soakai Photo: Ryan "Chachi" Craig
Emilia Perry Photo: Christa Funk
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06 Free Parking
30 Noelani
10 Cover Story
36 Aperture
12 Editor's Note
46 Profile Christa Funk
14 Leila Riccobuano
56 Surf Art
18 Bettylou Sakura Johnson
60 News & Events
20 Ayaka Suzuki
64 Industry Notes
24 Resano `Ohana
66 Last Look
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Kelis Kaleopa'a
Surfer: Kelis Kaleopa’a Photographer: Will Walling “I love shooting at Queens, especially in the late afternoon and evening when the sun gets low and the colors get soft. Most photographers will shoot from the Ewa side of the wave in the afternoon to have the sun to their back and the ability to capture Le’ahi in the background. I actually prefer shooting right into the sun to silhouette my subject. This shot was taken just minutes before sunset. The sun was barely peaking over the horizon, but that’s when the sky melts and the colors explode. Add in Kelis hanging ten, and this is what you get.” - Will Walling ( @will_is_dakine ) N E X T
I S S U E
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N O T E
The Wahine Issue of Freesurf Magazine hopes to inspire, empower, and celebrate female surfers and the divine feminine. Giving praise to our ancestors, women’s history, our sisterhood, and the Hawaiian Queens who took to the sea to surf the big waves of the Islands, we share gratitude for all who paved the way, making an impact for the future benefit of women everywhere. We thank the mothers and the fathers who tell their little girls to dream big, because anything is possible; we are only bound by our perception of limitations. The wahine of today are stronger than ever before, and it shows in their power turns, big wave drops, and barrel hunting prowess. When we believe in the collective power of educated women, when we offer equal opportunity and equal pay, when we provide the means for our wahine to succeed… the entire community thrives. Instead of writing a dissertation on why you should support women’s surfing, I will leave you with this inspiring poem written by Sonny Carroll: The Empowered Woman, she moves through the world with a sense of confidence and grace. Her once reckless spirit now tempered by wisdom. Quietly, yet firmly, she speaks her truth without doubt or hesitation and the life she leads is of her own creation. She now understands what it means to live and let live. How much to ask for herself and how much to give. She has a strong, yet generous heart and the inner beauty she emanates truly sets her apart. Like the mythical Phoenix, she has risen from the ashes and soared to a new plane of existence, unfettered by the things that once that posed such resistance. Her senses now heightened, she sees everything so clearly. She hears the wind rustling through the trees; beckoning her to live the dreams she holds so dearly. She feels the softness of her hands and muses at the strength that they possess. Her needs and desires she has learned to express. She has tasted bitter and savored the sweet fruits of life, overcome adversity and pushed past heartache and strife. And the one thing she never understood, she now knows to be true, it all begins and ends with you.
Mahalo, Shannon Reporting Managing Editor
Raquel Heckert, Waimea Bay.
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Shannon Reporting
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Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic
Wahine
Managing Editor Shannon Reporting Photo Director gOnzo Art Director John Weaver Social Media Manager Shannon Reporting
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Kellis Keleopaa Photo: Will Walling #stillfree
Contributing Writers gOnzo, Alexandra Kahn, Kyveli Sophia, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting Copy Editor Tiffany Foyle West Coast Distribution Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395 Hawai`i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395 Staff Shooters Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, Andrew Oliver, Andrew Storer Contributing Photographers Mike Chlala, Nick Gruen, Mike Ito, Ronne Jones, Ryan Miller, Neal Miyake, Tommy Pieruck, Eric Baeseman, Brent Bielmann, Brian Bielmann, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Pete Frieden, Christa Funk, Shane Grace, Dane Grady, Andy Hawes, Alexandra Kahn, Zak Noyle, Sebastian Rojas, Keoki Saguibo Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Follow us on social media @freesurfmag
FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019
Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am
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Leila Riccobuano, 15, Says The Hawai‘i Girls Need More Events By Shannon Reporting
When did you fall in love with surfing? I fell in love with surfing at three years old, because I was on the front of my daddy’s longboard and having a great time. I’ve been surfing ever since.
running for president. As the surf industry opens space for women in management positions, we will likely see a shift towards equality. Powerful and influential ladies like Carissa Moore and Bethany Hamilton have fought their case to compete in the men’s events of the Triple Crown in past years, but when will we see a women’s division? Maybe if there is more demand, the collective voice of female
What does the future hold for female surfers? Well, now we have equality, or at least equal pay. But the girls are invited to fewer events than the boys. My hopes for women’s surfing is to have the same amount of
Tai Vandyke
We caught up with Leila Riccobuano at the HSA State Championships held late April at Ala Moana Bowls. Her bubbly energy made an oncamera interview fun and easy, as we dove into her hopes and dreams for not only her career, but for all female surfers in Hawai‘i. It’s important to listen to the youth of our sport—especially the girls, who may be silenced due to fewer numbers of participants.
break. Equal opportunity to compete is what I envision to get closer to equality. Why is it important for brands to support women’s surfing? The events can showcase our talents and what we are capable of! We can put in just as much effort as the boys. All the girls work so hard. It seems like some girls train even more than the boys do, and I’d love to see that effort get paid back.
"Equal opportunity to compete is what I envision to get closer to equality. I would love to see more
events
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just
as
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for girls,
many
as
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Leila Riccobuano
All too often, the needs and desires of the girls get pushed under the rug. Times are changing, and it’s important to meet the needs of the next generation of surfers, considering inclusion of both men and women. Equal pay was finally realized this year after decades of hard-working ladies fought for their right to play and earn a living as professional athletes. We are at a pivotal time in the sport: the newly appointed CEO of the World Surf League is a woman, and more female politicians than ever are
surfers will be heard loud and clear. Maybe not. I’m still hopeful.
contests as the guys, because they get a lot more opportunity. I hope for more contests in Hawaii for the girls and QS events on O'ahu, since we have some of the best waves.
We opened the floor to Honolulu local pro Leila Riccobuano, 15, to share her dreams for the future of the sport and her community of lady shredders.
Does equal pay really mean “equality” though? Is it just about the money? I would like to see equal opportunity. We just don’t have many QS events anymore close to Hawai‘i. I would love more events, just as many as the boys have, like Kewalos— which is my home break—or Haleiwa would be sick! Kewalos breaks nearly every day no matter what. It’s way better than a beach
Hometown: Kaka'ako, Honolulu, Hawai‘i Sponsors: Roxy, Banzai Bowls, Sun Bum, Dakine, Varial, Lost Surfboards Go-to board: Mayhem Surfboards’ "Pocket Rocket" with Varial Foam 14
Would you be interested in competing in big waves? I would love to surf Waimea! I’ve always dreamt of surfing in the Eddie Aikau. The waves are pretty big when they run [scratches her head with a laugh] but I would still love to do it if I got the chance. Who inspires you? I definitely looked up to all the local girls growing up, especially Carissa Moore and Coco Ho. Coco is a really good friend and she helps me out when she can. It’s super fun surfing with her. I look up to all the Hawaii girls, like Tatiana WestonWebb and Malia Manuel. All the girls on the Roxy team are like
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family. I love them all. I think my favorites that I look up to are Kelia Moniz (she’s one of my favorites, and is super sweet), Stephanie Gilmore, of course, because she rips, Bronte Macaulay because she’s insane and Caroline Marks, too. They’re all super cool. How does it feel to be the only girl in a lineup? There have been many times when I am the only girl in the water. We just traveled to Panama for a week, and we only met two girl surfers. My friend and I were usually the only girls out there.
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Friday night at Hickam, but after I broke my wrist twice and fell on my butt a lot, I would make sure not to skate before big contests. Before State Championships, for example, no skating was my rule because I didn’t want to get hurt. I’d wear butt pads, knee pads, elbow pads, wrist pads, a helmet... literally every pad available. Goals for your surfing career: I definitely want to make the World Tour and win a world title, or win the record for the most world titles, which is going to be really hard!
When you’re not surfing… I love skateboarding. For some funny reason I can drop in on a 12-foot vert ramp, but struggle on a 3-foot ramp! The bigger ones seem easier than the little ones. I used to skate a bunch and every
Zoe McDougall Hawaii | @zoe_mcdougall
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J U N I O R
Bettylou Sakura Johnson By Mike Latronic
Sponsors: Roxy, Slater Designs, Banzai Bowls, Vertra, FCS Fins, and Tonic Hair Care. Favorite surf spots on the Islands: Makaha, Haleiwa, Sunset & Honolua Bay Your definition of aloha: To me, the word “aloha” means compassion and respect for others, and to love and give to others. You’re currently in Australia? Howzit Down Under? Australia has been so great! The waves are unreal here. I surfed Duranbah, Snapper, Fingles, Greenmount, and Rainbows. The water was so crystal clear, and the wild animals are so cool! Which Slater Designs boards are working best for you? My favorite
models are the ‘Happy Hour’ and the ‘Gamma.’ I am so stoked to be working with Slater Designs. Their boards are feeling great, like magic under my feet! Surfers you look up to: My favorite surfers are Stephanie Gilmore, Tatiana Weston-Webb, Griffin Colapinto, and Kelly Slater. Goals for your surfing career: My goal for surfing is to learn all the maneuvers and keep up with the boys’ surf level. Last but not least, I want to get on the CT and become a world champion!
gOnzo
With the rise of women’s surfing, there are literally dozens (if not hundreds) of young athletes making a name for themselves in this new era, which makes standing out amongst this new generation even more special. One young female athlete that does so is Bettylou Sakura, now 14 years young. I’d call her surfing style a cross between Malia Manuel and Brisa Hennessy: she’s got the dynamic flow and water knowledge like Malia, matching that with aggressive and powerful off the lip surfing like Brissa. She knows how to crack the lip when given an opportunity. Bettylou is a local at Haleiwa, but she’s been showing up regularly at the ‘Ehukai Beach Park and small Backdoor Pipeline. Gifted with so much talent, it’s also nice to know that she’s humble about it. Get to know Bettylou!
MICHAEL HO - SUNSET BEACH
BEACH FREELY
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World Champ Ayaka Suzuki by Shannon Reporting
World champion bodyboarder Ayaka Suzuki is in a league of her own. The 23-year-old superstar fell in love with the ocean at home in Chigasaki, Japan, and has since circumvented the globe many times in search of the heaviest barrels on the planet. No stranger to the Banzai Pipeline and the Mexican Pipeline in Puerto Escondido, Suzuki even dropped into XL Waimea Bay this winter. It was no easy task, but the 23-year-old superstar is always up for a challenge.
When did you get hooked on bodyboarding? I started bodyboarding when I was eight years old, and got hooked when I rode my first wave. I got third in a local contest and became even more hooked on bodyboarding and the competition element.
Favorite waves around the world? Pipeline and Puerto Escondido.
Is Japan supportive of female bodyboarding? Not very much... it’s hard. We have a lot of women bodyboarders in Japan, but we don’t have enough support for the sport, so most of us work other daily jobs. Even if someone is a “professional bodyboarder,” it’s often just a hobby for an athlete if it doesn’t pay the bills.
How has being a world champ changed your life? The title pushes me harder now. I feel like I need to be a good example to others to call myself a world champ and to be a professional for the next generations. I feel more pressure. I also feel that people watch me a bit differently than before.
Has the APB Tour discussed equal pay for men and women? Yes, and they look forward to offering equal pay for men and women in the near future. When that happens, we will all have more motivation for the contests and for this sport. As more women participate in the events, the sport will continue to grow.
Ronne Jones
Suzuki has been doing her best to level the playing field for men and women in her sport, now at the forefront of female progression. This winter during the Mike Stewart Pipe Invitational, she wanted to compete against the men at her favorite wave (since there was no female division). She was accepted into the contest and dominated the opening round in challenging conditions at Pipe, sending the boys packing. It was a radical testament to her expertise and skill as the women’s world champ.
Bodyboarding is one of the few sports in the world that still holds co-ed competition. Many events do not offer a women’s division. Suzuki hopes to change that, motivated to use her influence and platform to bring awareness to her sport and the desire for gender equality. Her accomplishments this winter made us hungry to hear more about her inspiration, how she gained the confidence to surf some of the deadliest waves on the planet amongst a sea of men, and her forecast for the future of women’s bodyboarding.
Ayaka Suzuki, Puerto Escondido, Mexico
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Shannon Reporting
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Who are your inspirations? Neymara Carvalho is a five-time world bodyboard champion from Brazil. She has always inspired me since when I was young, and still today! What does the future of female bodyboarding look like? There will be equal pay for men and women. And I hope our sport will gain popularity and keep growing. I also hope to see bodyboarding in the Olympic Games soon! Thank you so much to Freesurf Mag for this interview. It’s very special for us bodyboarders to be featured in the surfing magazine!
Ayaka Suzuki, Waimea Bay
Big waves or small barrels? I can’t choose; I love them all! My dream conditions would be uncrowded, perfect Pipeline with only my good friends out there getting barrels and ramps all together!
SU RF R IB BY. CO M
Lightweight, padded rash guard made for sun and rib protection — day after day in the water.
The Resano ‘ohana is quite the unique bunch of radical surfers: big wave charger Manny Resano from Argentina is the kingpin, raising his three lovely girls down the street from Nicaragua’s heaviest reef break. Famous for its consistent offshore conditions, Popoyo has trained the Resano sisters to surf well beyond their years; they even tow surf the outer reef on the big days with their father who coaches them. This family is super radical and inspiring, the living epitome of girl power! In addition to their surfing prowess as some
Candelaria Resano, Waimea Bay. Photo: Sebastian Rojas 24
of Nicaragua’s brightest hopefuls, they are some of the cutest and most well-spoken siblings in competitive surfing today. All three girls are bilingual in Spanish and English, wooing the crowd during ISA competitions and television interviews. They will melt your heart. This winter, we spotted two little blonde girls paddling out to Waimea in neon wetsuits; you couldn’t miss them. Impressed by their performances on the North Shore this season in big and barreling waves, we reached out to las chicas surfistas for the full scoop. Let’s start with the 13-year-old middle sister, Candelaria, who wants to win as many world titles as humanly possible. Her eyes are set on big wave competition, and now that the WSL Big Wave Tour has opened the events to women, young Candelaria may just realize her dreams in the near future. Looks like you surfed Waimea pretty big on your first session at the Bay! It was a great feeling to surf a wave with so much power. It was my first time surfing there (it was also my first time on O‘ahu). It was truly motivating because I had been seeing Waimea in videos and hearing about it from people, and to me, it seemed like something far too scary and advanced before I surfed it. Yet, when I paddled out and
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caught my first wave, it gave me a lot of confidence and made me feel proud of myself. Congrats on your final place finish at the Pipeline Women’s Pro! What’s it like surfing Pipe with only the girls, including Bethany Hamilton? Two to three weeks before the contest I was surfing Pipe almost every day, big or small, good or bad (except for the days when it was massive). During my freesurf session, Tamayo Perry was a great help for me. He taught me a lot about Pipe and which boards to use, which helped me feel more comfortable in the lineup. The Pipeline Women’s Pro was definitely a challenge, but an amazing experience. I felt really comfortable surfing Pipe with only the girls; the waves felt so much less scary because there were other girls also surfing with me.
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How does your father support your goals to surf bigger waves? Having a big wave surfer as a father definitely helps my surfing a lot, because he knows the steps to take for big wave surfing and knows which boards to use. He also helps me feel more comfortable in the lineup, motivating me to go. He knows what he’s talking about when it comes to big waves, because he is constantly putting himself in those heavy water situations. Are you and your sisters super competitive with one another? I’m actually the middle sister and I’m really competitive when I surf with them, since we are so close in age. I always want to have the better wave of the set and the better result in the contests. However, I also always have a great time surfing with both of them. We always have fun and are doing silly things in the lineup, like singing silly songs and making fun of one another. Mentors / favorite surfers: My dad is my biggest mentor, and I have worked with many coaches such as: Kahea Hart, Romain Laulhe, Eric Kramer, Diego Naranjo, and Adam Knox. I’d also like to thank Dave Riddle for coaching me at Regionals and being very encouraging.
gOnzo
Surfing and competing with Bethany Hamilton was a great opportunity to see what it’s like to surf with a world-class athlete, and realize anything is possible in a heat. During our heat, I was very worried anytime a set came that she was in position, because she could do literally anything given the opportunity; she’s an amazing surfer.
Valentina Resano
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Meet the oldest sibling of this triple-threat, Valentina Resano. She’s been ripping on the North Shore this winter with support from Volcom, turning heads at Pipeline and even Waimea Bay. Now 15 years young, the junior surfer is one of Nicaragua’s strongest competitors and no stranger to big outer reef… Unfortunately she suffered a laceration to her face after slamming the reef while freesurfing at the Pipeline, one of few women willing to take the risks of the ultimate ride at the spot. We are sure you’ll be seeing much more of this young lady as her teenage years unfold. How did you spend your time in the Islands? I had the best time ever in Hawai‘i. It was my fourth trip to the North Shore and every time I go, I love it more. On this trip I mostly surfed Waimea Bay, Pipeline, Sunset, V-land and ‘Ehukai Beach Park. I also got back into skateboarding at the
on the top of my helmet, but then I hit the reef again with the side of my face and my legs. It ended up being only five stitches. The next few days my head was all swollen and both of my eyes were black. Was it worth it? Yes, but next time I’ll paddle harder, haha. On Dad’s coaching: Having a big wave surfer as a father has definitely had a big impact on my surfing, because he teaches me a lot about the ocean and respect. He helps me see things from a different perspective.
Candelaria Resano
Banzai skatepark, made a lot of new friends, and got to learn more about the Hawaiian culture. Nice waves at Waimea Bay this winter! You were charging. I surfed Waimea for the first time in 2017 on a very clean 12 foot day. This session really motivated me to surf it more often and bigger. This season I got to surf Waimea many times. One day, the locals were calling it 20 foot. I was not only amazed by the power and perfection of the wave, but also by the beauty of this Hawaiian sacred place. What happened at Pipeline when you hit the reef? The afternoon before the Women’s Pipeline Pro, I was having a really good time surfing 4 foot Pipeline with a few friends. I got one pretty good wave at the start of my session, but on the one after I nose dove and face planted into the reef. The first impact was
gOnzo
Goals for your surfing career: My big goal for my surfing career is to get on Tour and win as many world titles as I can. I also want to be invited to the women’s big wave events.
gOnzo
However, I usually don’t have a coach in contests and try to compete with my own knowledge. My favorite surfers in big, barreling waves would have to be: Jamie O’Brien, Makua Rothman, Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Mark Healey, and Nathan Florence. My favorite surfers in competitive performance waves are Filipe Toledo, Mick Fanning and Jordy Smith.
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How did you build your confidence to ride bigger waves? It was awesome to have the help and support of Tamayo Perry at Pipeline. When he calls me into a wave, there is no hesitation because I know I have to go. Chris Owens took me under his wing on the bigger days; we surfed Waimea a bunch as well as some other amazing outer reefs. Lyle Carlson was also very supportive. I was very confident riding my Bushman Gun on the big days and my Minamis for Pipeline and Sunset. For other days I used my regular boards, Cheboards made in Costa Rica. Looking ahead: In the short term, I would like to start competing in the big wave events. It’s a goal of mine to be invited to compete in the Waimea Queen of the Bay and Nelscott Reef contests. Looking ahead, I will continue competing in the QS events but prioritizing surfing quality waves and big swells. The ultimate goal is to be the best all-around surfer I can possibly be.
Valentina Resano
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One life, right? Don’t blow it.
Shannon Reporting
Pau Hana / Noelani By Shannon Reporting
Dropping her third album of healing sounds, Noelani Love has her toes dipped in various industries. The single mother with mixed Hawaiian and Chinese descent is as diverse in her prospects as her background. Growing up in North Carolina and now residing for over a decade on O`ahu, the Southern girl is all about embracing uniqueness and sharing the power of voice. In addition to leading a healing sound and dance class at Turtle Bay’s Wanderlust yoga festival, she travels the world singing and sharing mantras and traditional Hawaiian song. Her iconic jewelry business on the North Shore helps support her now 11-year-
old son, and a lifestyle dedicated to healing through voice and vibration. As a single mother who suffered through severe postpartum depression, Noelani navigated the ocean of emotions to persevere, discovering the magical powers of music. She is now committed to sharing her voice and positive message with the world. We’re excited to share her success story in the Wahine Issue of Freesurf. You’re about to release a new album? Tell us about it. Yes! I released a reggae album in October called “Follow the Light” which was recorded in Bali. This next album that I am releasing in May with the New
Moon; it’s a compilation of remixes from my first album. This one has good dance beats with conscious lyrics that are ancient chants from thousands of years ago that have been sung for peace, for the connection to the divine that lives in all of us. I think it’s so important that we become aware of whatever vibrations we are experiencing, whether it’s music, our thoughts or words, that’s what we are receiving and putting back out into the world. We are literally creating our world. This whole world is just a dream for all of us. If you make plans with a friend to grab coffee,
mantra] which means, “May all beings everywhere be happy and free.” In the music video, a bunch of girlfriends of mine are participating in this beautiful ceremony creating haku lei (flower crowns) and dancing on the beach with giant waves in the background, enjoying and celebrating life as the sun sets, and then we light the fire under the stars. We sing and dance with the power of the fire putting our magic and intention into the circle. I think that ceremony is something so special and important for us as humans, and it’s something that our ancestors
then that’s your dream and it’s what you’re going to go do. Or if you want to go surf Sunset Beach with your girlfriend, that’s your dream; you are always a part of the process of creation. I totally believe that we, as human beings, are always creating our own reality. So with this album, like all of my music, it’s a way to express that creative potential that we all have. The songs that I write are the mantras or the statements, the affirmations that I’m wishing to be put out into the universe to be sung and to be rippled out. These songs connect us to the eternal vibration of life that exists within all of us.
did often in the past and has been forgotten in this era. Coming together with intention, honoring life and each other’s intentions, seeing each other as equals and as individuals is so important: to be acknowledged, to be expressive, to be authentic, and to allow that to be ok.
For example, in one of the songs on this album that I just made a music video for, the chant is “Lokah Samastah Sukhino Bhavantu” [a Sanskrit
What does music mean to you? Music is a way of authentically expressing oneself. When I write music, it comes from my heart, it comes from a deep place — maybe my soul — allowing itself to be seen and heard. As a mother and an entrepreneur, do you think women can do it all? I like to think so. I just want to keep growing, loving, learning, inspiring and empowering others, and keep on finding freedom and authentic expression of who I am.
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ELI OLSON T H E H Y P E R F R E A K ® S S E A M B O A R D S H O RT O ’ N E I L L I N C . 2 0 1 9 | U S . O N E I L L . C O M | P H O T O G R A P H Y: E D W I N M O R A L E S
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What inspiration do you draw from the ocean? I love the ocean so much. I find expansion, connection to nature, and connection to source — whether you call that God, infinity, the universe, consciousness... I find creativity. I find flow, the ability to challenge myself; I find fun! I’d compare it to making love: you’re flirting with the ocean; there’s a giving and receiving and exploring of what’s possible and how much fun you can have. What’s a woman’s role in the world of surfing? I think that women love to connect and play more on that emotional side of yin and yang with masculine and feminine. When I am in the water, I am just trying to have fun. As a surfer, 98% of the time I am one of the only women in the lineup whether I’m at Sunset or Pipe, my two favorite spots. It’s so interesting to watch the dynamic of the men paying no attention to each other. I grew up in the South, even though I am part native Hawaiian, so etiquette is an important part of humanity—a simple “hello” as you pass them and acknowledge their being and existence, even if you’re not friends or even acquaintances. The ocean on the North Shore is a competitive environment, but a polite gesture of acknowledgement is appreciated. That’s one thing that women can bring into the water: connection, and less competition. Right now is a really powerful time for women in the surf industry. Just like in politics, there are so many women running for President right now. I think that means a lot for humanity’s evolution, the fact that women are charging bigger and better waves than ever before, as far as we know. I think that says a lot, and also receiving support for that like the big wave contests happening for the women. There are a lot of women paving the way for others in the surfing
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industry, like Coco Ho, one of our North Shore legends, and even the up-and-coming girls who are doing amazing work. It’s a really exciting time right now for women in surfing. What gave you the confidence to become an entrepreneur? I always knew I wanted to be my own boss. I don’t want to work for someone else’s dream. I started designing jewelry as a hobby when I was 19. I was in college at the time, and I started to see that people were interested in my jewelry and supporting it as a business. So I started my company straight out of college… And my business
has been thriving ever since. It will be 14 years this year that I’ve been in business. It’s so important as a human being to have a strong desire for something. Whatever it is that your heart desires, if you really put your mind to it, know that if there’s a will there’s a way. Just having that thought makes it possible. We forget about that a lot in society; there isn’t much discussion about its importance. As an entrepreneur, you are your own boss. Nobody is going to tell you your working hours; it’s all on you. Trusting in yourself, having self-discipline, commitment, and perseverance are going to take you a long way. Owning a business has also taught me a lot about integrity. It’s been hard to commit to and believe in myself
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as worthy, but I’m so grateful for all of the lessons from being an entrepreneur. I’ve grown a lot from owning a business, having to speak publicly and manage staff. It’s never easy, but it keeps me evolving and always learning. Did you surf while pregnant? I was bodyboarding when I was pregnant, and bodysurfed a lot. Being able to ride waves kept me grounded while I was pregnant. Surfing also kept me strong and I think my baby in my belly loved the feeling, too. I actually had to get rescued by the lifeguards one time when I was pregnant! I was maybe four or five months along in my
second trimester, and I didn’t have as much energy as I used to have before. I thought I would be fine in 4-5 ft Ehukai so I swam out there, and the swell started to pick up really fast. I remember the lifeguards came out on a jet ski to check on everybody. I waved at one of the lifeguards to come get me and he waved back, “Hi Noe!” and then kept going! I thought, “Oh no! Okay, I have to survive. Just keep on swimming.” He circled back around and started talking story, so I finally asked him to take me in. That taught me a lot about humility. When people are too ashamed to ask for help in the water, it can be deadly. It’s important to know when to ask for help and support. I never
really surfed on a board until last summer when my son said he wanted to learn how to surf. I started longboarding at Sunset with him, and now I love it. How has motherhood changed your life? Becoming a mom has been the most empowering and challenging part of my life. I’ve learned how to love unconditionally. I decided to have a home birth with my son here at Sunset Beach, and that experience was a challenging, yet empowering 18 hours, yet I think it greatly shaped who I am today. It taught me to surrender and trust in the intuitive wisdom of my body to birth. I remember the moment he came out while I was squatting on the floor, and my midwife handed him to me. I was completely in love, thinking this little mammal came out of me! That was amazing. The birth process taught me a lot about the power of sound and the power of my voice. I learned how to allow sound to become a vibration that literally shifted my mind out of this dimension and into another realm so I could get into that headspace to relax and surrender my body enough to allow the baby to come out. That is where my sound journey began as a singer and a teacher, and even into my business as a leader for my employees. I never had any employees before I had my son. It also inspired me to play the ukulele, to write music, and eventually inspired me to teach pre-natal yoga, and other styles of yoga as well. How do we join forces as women, instead of compete against each other? At the core of my heart I believe in abundance for all, but because of the conditioning that I’ve been taught from society and education, my family, from community... there is a sense of constant competition. There’s a fine line between competition and striving to be your best. We
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can all strive for better together and support each other in that way. Each of us has a really strong purpose on this planet. Why did we come here? I believe that every person has a soul, and our souls came down to this planet for a particular reason. We can all thrive and do better than just survive. My purpose is going to be way different than every other person’s purpose. When we each find our unique voice and expression, then we can all thrive together abundantly. Although, I completely understand the competition mindset. I grew up playing competitive sports, being angry at other girls for no reason... but that really shifted after becoming a mom. I realized that I need my community of sisters; we need each other. We cannot do this all alone. It was hard being a new mom. I suffered severe postpartum depression. I was depressed, wanted to kill myself, wanted to kill my baby... for six months I felt that way. Life had changed so drastically from being the carefree 23 year old I had been. I thought I would never taste freedom ever again. I couldn’t
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just go to the beach with a book and a sarong anymore. I had this beautiful baby but didn’t feel like I could love him because of crazy, erratic emotions and hormone changes. It was really hard. There are a lot of options to help. I’m also a birth doula, so I’ve learned a lot about how to support that process… I found sisterhood so important after becoming a mom. I learned how to connect with community; I know that I’m supported. Like a wave, this phase too shall pass. Becoming a mom helped me to connect with a sense of spirituality that I had never explored before. I started to see myself and my baby as a part of the eternal cycle of life. Motherhood has been the biggest challenge as well as the biggest gift. Now that my son is 11, he has a lot more freedom and so do I. Life is great!
Links to see more from Noelani: Jewelry: NoelaniHawaii.com Music: NoelaniLove.com
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Every annual wahine issue tends to be a very colorful one full of smiles, focus, and just plain stoke. I mean, let’s face it: who could be happier in this world than a sun-kissed gal on a surfboard enjoying all the fun in the sun that our sport has to offer? The stoke is contagious, and that is the main objective of this issue’s APERTURE: to share the blissful joy that our wahine experience every time they paddle out for a session at their home break, or in a faraway land where discovering new waves, new people, and good vibes is the incentive. We at Freesurf Mag hope you enjoy this beautiful gallery of women here in Hawai‘i and around the world doing what they do best: riding waves with their hearts and souls, spreading aloha through their smiles and love for wave riding.
Luana SIlva Photo: Sebastian Rojas
With the DNA and last name to prove it, Tyler Wright holds up family traditions showcasing power and style, knee brace and all. Photo: Mike Latronic
Mason Schremmer. Photo: Mike Ito
Tiki Willis and Keani Canullo Photo: Will Walling
Lola Schremmer Photo: Mike Ito
Journey Regelbrugge Photo: Tommy Pierucki
Brittany Hokulani Penaroza Photo: Mike Latronic
Savanna Stone Photo: Mike Latronic
Alicia Kelley Photo: Nick Gruen
Aline Akemi Adisaka Photo: Mike Latronic
Alicia Kelley Photo: gOnzo
Rosie Jaffurs
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by Shannon Reporting Photos Christa Funk
Hard work and dedicated training has paid off big time for Christa Joy Funk, one of the world’s leading water photographers best known for her pictureperfect images from the one and only Banzai Pipeline. Big or small, Funk is in the mix and firing away. Guaranteed you’ve admired her work across the pages of Freesurf Magazine and Surfline’s website amongst others, or scrolled her Insta feed @instaclamfunk. Veteran surf photographer Zak Noyle told us that she’s often out in the lineup before he even hits the sand (and he’s an early bird), plus she’ll stay out the longest thanks to her hardcore fitness regime and background as a competitive swimmer. We’ve even heard stories of her running the beach with weight belts before sunrise, when most of us normal folk are still asleep dreading the alarm clock. Funk’s dedication to her craft demonstrates discipline and courage, and her personal story as an officer in the Coast Guard helps explains her bold get-afterit attitude. Getting in the mix as one of the world’s best (in any industry) is no easy feat, as photography gets increasingly more competitive in the digital age. Yet, Funk has proved herself in heavy conditions, earning her spot in the lineup along with great respect amongst her peers and the surf community. She is, indeed, one of the only swimmers willing to paddle out on the heavy and shifty second and third reef Pipe days, scoring unique shots from the gladiator pit. We’re big fans, if you can’t already tell. Her inspiring story might motivate you to get up for dawn patrol more often, or maybe not, but it will definitely give you some insight into how putting in the extra effort can set you apart.
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Current gear: SPL water housing, Canon 7d MK ii, various Canon lenses, and DaFins. How did you get into photography? I started taking pictures in 2003. My computer teacher recommended me for the film photography class at Grand Junction High, which was typically reserved for juniors and seniors. Thanks to her recommendation, I was allowed to take it as a freshman. That class taught me to shoot, develop film, and work in the darkroom. The process from conception to production got me hooked. I knew this was what I wanted to do with my life. Describe the mental and physical preparation leading up to swimming a big day at Pipe: The physical work is done months before. I go to bed around 8:30pm or 9 every night and I wake up by 5am to workout. I mix a lot of cardio and strength training with swimming, surfing, and bodysurfing. That’s the easy part of my preparation, and I’ve been doing it for the last twenty years.
Yuri Soledad
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Mental prep is the most important and most difficult part. It starts the day before the swell comes and usually peaks the morning of. I check the buoys the night before if I think it’s going to be good to get an idea of size and direction. I talk to my husband about it, and we usually look at a couple of other weather apps and websites to get information “from the source” on what the conditions are going to be like. When I wake up on the morning of the swell, instead of working out I’ll prepare a chia bowl, login to Surfline, and start putting my camera together while I watch. If it looks like it’s going to be good, I check the buoys for an update on what the size and direction will be doing throughout the day, then I head down to the beach. When I get to the ocean I sit and watch it until I’m sure of: (a) how I’m going to get out to the break, (b) where I’m going to sit while shooting, and most importantly, (c) how I’m going to get out of the water if all hell breaks loose or if I get hurt. If at any point during my decisionmaking process—no matter what the waves look like—if my gut tells me no, I listen.
Christa in her element. Photo: Neal Miyake
"Stop worrying about being a woman. In the Coast Guard, I worked with salty tough old men who weren’t comfortable with women in the service. I had to earn their respect, and I did that by working hard. Surfing is no different. If you want respect from the men in this industry, earn it with hard work and dedication."
How has your competitive swimming background prepared you for water photography? I swam competitively from age 7 to 22, and when I was on active duty as an officer in the Coast Guard I always incorporated swimming into my workout routine. I was not a sprinter, so the endurance I gained from years of swimming long distance freestyle helped build my stamina. My kick was the strongest part of my stroke, which has assisted tremendously with swimming while holding a camera. My strength and muscle memory have been considerable assets when spending hours in the ocean. Shooting surfing, I'm in cruise control unless I'm moving to get out of a bad situation or swimming under a wave. It’s mostly all automatic. However, swimming back and forth in a calm pool in no way mentally prepared me for the current and impact of large waves that the ocean produces. Ocean knowledge takes time to learn; I’m learning constantly, and I don't think that will ever stop. How was your experience in the Coast Guard, and did it play into the self-discipline you have today? Even before the Coast Guard I was disciplined. At an early age I wanted to spend my life in wild places on Earth and decided that the best way to do it would be a degree in Marine Biology or Photojournalism. To achieve either of those goals, I knew that physical fitness and working hard would be essential. My life revolved around swim practice and school. The discipline and focus I learned from my parents, swim team, and school got me into the Coast Guard Academy where I finished with a Marine Biology degree and a commission. Some of my best and worst experiences happened in the Coast Guard. I am still working through the worst, but without the Coast Guard my photography career path would have been completely different. I would not change what happened,
Jeff Hubbard
because where I am now is where I’ve always wanted to be. As a photographer I use that same discipline to run my business, stay in shape, and stay calm in the ocean. Mentors & photographers you look up to: I have not had another photographer be a consistent mentor like Obi-Wan Kenobi to Luke Skywalker or Mr. Miyagi to Daniel-San. I have, however, had other photographers give me advice and help along
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the way, for all of which I am beyond thankful. One of those photographers, Kenji Croman, is the most significant in my mind because he took me out for my first water photography sessions at Sandy’s and then later st Pipeline. Additionally, Erik Ippel and Larry Haynes have given me valuable insight over the years. I also look up to Sean Davey and Art Brewer; both are fantastic photographers. Heaviest moment in the water: Another photographer tumbled into me in the whitewash of a wave at Pipe. We were both in a bad spot for a wave, so when it detonated we tried to get under it, but collided. He unknowingly kicked my shoulder out of the socket. I came up disoriented looking at the lip of another wave about to land on us. I moved away from him deeper into the zone so the same collision wouldn't occur. Boom!
Cliff Kapono
As I was thrown in the whitewash again, my shoulder was pushed back into place. I decided to try and keep shooting. I only lasted another ten minutes before returning to shore. Big picture goals for your photography career: I want to continue to seek out situations where I am uncomfortable, since that is where the most growth occurs. I want to shoot for the rest of my life and continue to earn a living from it.
Emilia Perry
Words of advice for women who want to make it into the surf industry? Surf photography is in a weird place right now because the delivery medium is changing so quickly. Be aware of that. Fearlessly submit your work; your photos may get used, they may not, but you’ll never know unless you submit them.
Leah Dawson
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Stop worrying about being a woman. In the Coast Guard, I worked with some tough and salty old men who weren’t comfortable with women in the service. I had to earn their respect, and I did that by working hard. Surfing is no different. If you want respect from the men in this industry, earn it with hard work and dedication. Which leads me to say: when you shoot in the water, start small and work your way up to bigger days. Do not force yourself into conditions you don't feel like you are ready to handle. Going out with a point to prove will likely end in injury.
Makoa Ah Sam
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My last piece of advice is to enjoy the moment: the water, waves, sand, reef, sun, clouds, people riding pieces of foam‌ appreciate all of it, because it is simply awesome. pau
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JEANNIE CHESSER By Alexandra Kahn
Walking into Jeannie’s home feels like entering one of the artsy home goods stores in Hale‘iwa. There is a central color palette of ocean tones with paintings of all sizes covering nearly every inch of the room with some furniture here and there. The home has two separate creative nooks: one has become Jeannie’s jewelry making area, the other in the kitchen has become her painting studio. Much of the art displayed around the house is for sale, and she hosts many at-home art sales. Board painting is reserved for outside of the home due to the fumes from the paint, but all other creativity occurs within.
surf break—Restaurants on Tavarua. She’s endured the loss of her son and a battle with skin cancer. Today, Jeannie’s main concerns seem to be making rent through her artistic outlets, and surfing as much as possible. “I grew up on the beaches of Miami since I was a baby,” Jeannie recalls. “When I first saw people surfing in Daytona Beach, I just had to try it. I started on those white styrofoam boogie boards, because that's all we had back then in the 60s. I was 12 at the time, but didn't surf until age 14. My first board weighed 35 pounds!”
Alex Kahn
Jeannie’s petite frame and calm, cheery demeanor doesn’t necessarily manifest a physical representation of her longevity in the male-dominated surf industry, or her ability to shred at her favorite
The first thing Jeannie learned how to do working in the surf industry in the 70s was how to pee without touching the toilet. “A guy came into where I was working at Naish at the time, and he couldn't believe there was a female painting boards,” she recalls. “I was totally insulted. Gender shouldn't make a difference. I am what I am. I don't see it as any type of women's lib. I love men and surfing, so it is a natural fit for me.” When she began painting boards in the 70s it was popular, but the real growth came in the 80s. At that time, Jeannie recalls of only one other female who was painting boards.
Art has always been a part of Jeannie’s life. She remembers drawing and coloring as a small child. Painting started with oils and watercolors in high school,
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two mediums she still applies to canvas and wood today. She painted her first surfboard in 1971. Fellow surfers began to notice the boards she was painting and asked if she could also paint their boards. Her favorite subjects to paint are waves and flowers, but gravitates towards flames on surfboards. She thinks of Al Dove, a co-worker at Surf Line Hawai‘i in the 70s, as one of her greatest artistic mentors who was responsible for teaching her much of what she knows about airbrushing. Over her career as an artist, she has worked with major surfboard brands in Hawai‘i including: Hawaiian Island Creations, Local Motion, and Naish Hawai‘i. Around the same time Jeannie began painting boards, she also began making jewelry with puka shells. She now works with a variety of beads, pearls, colored stones and other materials. Although her artistic projects provide Jeannie with a sense of accomplishment and creativity, surfing is what gets her out of bed every morning. Jeannie has found an excellent balance in her life between the physical and the creative, the work and the play; when you are in her presence, it’s clear she has found happiness. She sums it up nicely with a laugh: “I surf because it is refreshing, healing, great exercise, and there are lots of cute boys.” pau
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Kainehe Hunt
Tony Nunez and Dylan Franzmann
H.S.A. State Championships at Ala Moana Bowls By gOnzo
Latronic
This year's event was blessed with small but clean and consistent surf for the entire three day window of competition from April 25-27, held on a decreasing south swell. Wave size ranged from one to three-foot faces with occasional four-foot face sets with light winds and a mostly
low tide during the mornings. For three days, all divisions battled it out for the top spots that will go to California for the main National event in June. The small waves made the weekend a very contestable one where the young generation could prove their abilities and determine fairly who would make it to Nationals. The amount of camaraderie, aloha, and motivation from all the competitors makes this annual stop a very important one, a gathering that everyone looks forward to year after year. Ala Moana Beach Park always serves a great time and a proving ground for everyone that puts on a colored jersey.
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WSL Big Wave Awards 2019 by Shannon Reporting
Maui swept the podium at the WSL Big Wave Awards, held in Redondo Beach on May 2nd, 2019 kicking off the BeachLife Festival. Kai Lenny was the man of the night carrying home two trophies after his incredible stunt tow surfing Pe‘ahi this winter: “Over the moon and honored to win this years XXL Biggest Wave & Men’s Performance of the Year! Truly a dream come true. đ&#x;?†đ&#x;’Ż Mahalo World Surf League!â€? A Guinness World Records was also set by Andrea Moller for Women’s Paddle Award: “Stoked beyond words! Mahalo.â€?
Shannon Reporting
Kai Lenny
Paige Alms, AndreaMoller, Nicole Pacelli
The prestigious Ride of the Year Award went to Grant “Twiggyâ€? Baker for his historic drop during the Jaws Challenge. Women’s Overall Performance Award in addition to Women’s XXL Biggest Wave went to Justine Dupont for her impressive accomplishments in NazarĂŠ. Makua Rothman’s gut-wrenching wipeout at Cloudbreak, Fiji, earned him the Wipeout of the Year Award: “This stage wrote me as someone to be reckoned with. In 2002 as an 18-year-old boy, I caught the biggest wave ever ridden that year, a 66-foot wave, and it put me on the surfing map forever,â€? Rothman said. “Without all of the wonderful industry people working so hard, we wouldn't get to surf beautiful waves. We're just living the life we always knew... I love you Sunny [Garcia], I love you with all my heart. He is the epitome of a Hawaiian champion."
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Edrick Baldwin Photo: Mike Latronic
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Aunty Rell Sunn’s 43rd Annual Menehune Contest took place at Makaha Beach on April 20-21. Waves may have been tiny, but the stoke and smiles were huge! S k i n ca re | Bro w s | Br a zilian
New! E ye l a sh e n h a n ce m e n t se rv ic es
Australia’s Jack Robinson joined the Volcom surf team.
By appt only | book online Slyde Handboards signed Grant “Twiggy” Baker to their athlete roster, which is apparently the first big wave surfer to be sponsored by a bodysurfing company.
W W W. M I S C H A K L E I N . C O M
Carlinhos Salgueiro
Latronic
Kauai’s Sebastian Zietz is a new dad! His wife, Krisy Fulp, gave birth to 7 lb 14 ounce Milly Rose on April 19th.
World famous samba dancer Carlinhos Salgueiro was invited to Hawai‘i by O‘ahu's Natalina Dance Company to lead samba workshops, but he got a bonus surf lesson during the trip! As much as surfing is wildly popular in Brazil, perhaps more so is the Brazilian samba dance culture! Freesurf publisher Mike Latronic helped Carlinhos live a lifelong dream to stand up on a surfboard, and he did just that! After a series of spills and thrills, the world famous samba kingpin was literally "dancing on water."
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Girls just want to have fun. Tiki Willis and Keani Canullo Photo : Will Walling