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Jack Robinson Photo: Tai Vandyke

WHAT IS PRP THERAPY? PRP (platelet-rich plasma) is a non-surgical injection harvested WHAT IS PRP THERAPY? from your own blood. After the platelets are separated in a

centrifuge, this plasma is injected back into the affected area to encourage fasterplasma) healing is with a great concentration of growth PRP (platelet-rich a non-surgical injection harvested factors that canblood. help the body itself help minimize from your own After the repair platelets areand separated in a pain centrifuge, this plasma is injected back into the affected area to encourage faster healing with a great concentration of growth factors that can help the body repair itself and help minimize pain

As we age, we notice that the activities that we used to do with complete ease with minimal to no recuperation time are slowly becoming a memory Asnot we too age,distant we notice activities thatski weor of past.that Be the it that you could used to do with complete ease with minimal to no snowboard, surf, the beautiful waves in Newport/ recuperation areplay slowly becoming a of memory Huntingtontime Beach, a whole round Golf, of notrun, toohike distant past.tennis Be it that skiwork or bike, or play withyou yourcould tough snowboard, surf, the beautiful waves in Newport/ schedule at the computer all day, the downtime Huntington play a whole round of Sadly Golf, seems to beBeach, getting significantly higher. bike, run,of hike or play tough work some us just stoptennis doingwith the your things we love. schedule the day, thethe downtime What do at you docomputer if therapyalland over counter seems to be getting significantly higher. Sadly medications only give you temporary relief? Do some of us just stop doing the things we love. you resort to stronger addictive medications? What do you doififthere therapy and over of thetherapy counterin Surgery? What is an option medications give you care temporary relief? Do between theonly conservative and the extremes you resort to stronger addictive medications? of taking Narcotics or undergoing surgery? Surgery? What if there is an option of therapy in between the conservative carefrontier and theinextremes Regenerative Medicine is the providing of taking Narcotics or undergoing pain relief in cases where injuries or surgery? age-related degenerations occurs. It is the use of Plate Rick Regenerative Medicine is the frontier providing Plasma (PRP), Prolotherapy, SteminCell and pain relieftherapy in casesto where or age-related Biologics allowinjuries the body to heal itself. degenerations occurs. It is the use of Plate Rick Plasma (PRP), Prolotherapy, Stem Cell and Biologics therapy to allow the body to heal itself.

WHAT IS PROLOTHERATY & HOW DOES IT WORK? WHAT IS PROLOTHERATY & Prolotherapy is short for “Proliferation therapy.“ It works by HOW ITnatural WORK? stimulating DOES the body’s own healing mechanisms to repair

injured musculoskeletal tissue. This treatment works best to repair weak or painful areas by causing a temporary, Prolotherapy is short forjoint “Proliferation therapy.“ It works by low grade inflammation atown the injection site, activating fibroblasts to stimulating the body’s natural healing mechanisms to repair the area, which, in turn, tissue. synthesize to mature injured musculoskeletal This precursors treatment works bestcollagen to and thus reinforce connective tissue. In othera words, it canlow repair weak or painful joint areas by causing temporary, stimulate your bodyattothe heal itself site, activating fibroblasts to grade inflammation injection the area, which, in turn, synthesize precursors to mature collagen and thus reinforce connective tissue. In other words, it can stimulate your body to heal itself

WHAT IS STEM CELL THERAPY? WHAT IS ofSTEM THERAPY? takes advantage our bodiesCELL natural healing abilities. Stem

Stem Cell Therapy is an exciting state-of-the-art procedure which

Cell Biologics that are harvested from the body, meaning that they can suchstate-of-the-art as muscle tissue or organ which tissue. Stem Celldevelop Therapy into is ancells exciting procedure Theseadvantage stem cellsof can bebodies found natural in various tissues and are naturally takes our healing abilities. Stem alertBiologics and ready to are repair injuries from whenthe they occur. We continue Cell that harvested body, meaning that to rely stem cell throughout lives totissue replace they canondevelop into cells such our as muscle or injured organ tissue. tissuesstem and cells cells can lost be every day.inNow we are using more advances These found various tissues and are naturally techniques to collect and inject stem areasWe of the body alert and ready to repair injuries whencells theyin occur. continue that are to better promote to rely oninjured stem cell throughout our healing lives to replace injured tissues and cells lost every day. Now we are using more advances techniques to collect and inject stem cells in areas of the body that are injured to better promote healing

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TODAY OUR GOAL REMAINS THE SAME: PRODUCING HIGH QUALITY SANDALS THAT DON’T END UP IN LANDFILLS WHICH WE BELIEVE EVENTUALLY ENDS UP IN OUR RIVERS AND OCEANS. THAT COMMITMENT DOESN’T END WHEN OUR SANDALS LEAVE THE STORE. IF YOUR RAINBOW®’S ARE NEARING THE END OF THEIR RUN AND STILL HAVE SOME LIFE LEFT, PLEASE SEND THEM BACK TO US. WE WILL REPAIR THEM IF NEEDED AND GIVE THEM TO THOSE IN NEED THROUGHOUT THE WORLD.

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F R E E

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November was a memorable month for us. Although we did not get any huge Waimea Bay swell, the Banzai Pipeline flared up for what seemed like weeks on end. Everyone was exhausted before the real deal even started. This watershot was taken at noon on Sunday, November 24th. Swell was solid, rising, and simply gorgeous at the Banzai. The water was crystal clear and the action was serving heaps of adrenaline. Makana Pang took off super deep on this set wave close to OTW, then the wave suddenly grew in size and became impressively wide. Everyone on the channel screamed at how mutant the whole moment looked. Pang is, without a doubt, one of the North Shore's most committed young guns, not holding anything back when the waves get nuts and shallow. Photo: gOnzo

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08 Free Parking 14 Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Note 16 Cover Story 24 News & Events 28 Surviving Giants 34 Make Your Mark 48 News Continued 58 Industry Notes 66 Last Look

Christa Funk

T A B L E

AVA I L A B L E AT T&C S H O P S

R O B E RT G R I L H O | T H E H Y P E R F R E A K ™ S O L I D O ’ N E I L L I N C . 2 0 2 0 | U S . O N E I L L . C O M | P H O T O G R A P H Y: T O N Y H E F F

Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai‘i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic

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FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019

gOnzo Mason Ho, Pipeline

E D I T O R ' S

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Never a Dull Moment By Andrew Oliver

The North Shore’s prominence in the “world of surf” is in the midst of a resurgence. There was a period, in the late 90’s through the early-aughts, when a jaded indifference towards Hawai’i permeated the international surfing elite. It should be noted, that the waves, the locals, and the community has never lost it’s vitality - despite the mercurial swings of the outside world. But, the dawn of the new-millennium had opened up the world, and while Hawai’i held steadfast to its traditions and local hierarchies, surfing’s jet-set sought new “scenes” to experience and reshape. Two decades on, we’ve seen a global reshuffle on the WSL, the rise of social-media stars from all corners of the world, a wave pool boom, and surfing’s upcoming debut in the Olympics. Surfing’s truly entered

Not to be outdone, Hawai’i’s surfers have risen to the challenge of this newfound international surge achieving one of the most impressive competitive years on record. Starting this fall, with two ISA Junior World Champions, in Kaua’i’s Gabriela Bryan and Maui’s Jackson Bunch, respectively. Then over on Maui, which has served as the North Shore’s counter-punch in recent years, Carissa Moore earned her fourth WSL World Title, firmly planting herself among the greatest surfers of all time. North Shore’s own Honolua Blomfield earned her second WSL Longboard World Title, and continues to be at the forefront of longboarding’s current renaissance. And, in the big-wave realm, Maui’s own dominated the cbdMD Jaws Challenge once again, with

an “international age.” But, as interest in the sport has been pulled farther afield, there has been a need to reconnect with its core, and at that center lies the North Shore, the true litmus test for an aspiring surfer’s legitimacy. In the last decade, there are few visiting surfers who have placed more emphasis on the challenge of the North Shore as Jack Robinson. The West Australian phenom fully embraced the North Shore from his first trip as a mini-grom and that relationship has paid off in spades, bookending his 2019 QS campaign with two monumental wins on the 7-mile miracle, (The Volcom Pipe Pro, The Vans World Cup at Sunset) and earning a coveted spot on the 2020 World Tour.

Paige Alm’s defending her title and Billy Kemper winning for an unprecedented fourth time. Hawai’i isn’t the end-all be-all in surfing, but it will forever be a pillar of the sport, and no place does a better job of establishing who is who. With the quality and quantity of talent, both homegrown and from abroad, that converge here during the “season,” the North Shore is a performance tinderbox with this year’s abundance of epic surf providing the spark. As much as the sport has evolved in the last 20 years, it is great to see the North Shore return to the prestige it deserves. And, with the performances this coast has provided over the last few months it’s a wonder how it could have ever slipped away?

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C O V E R

Jack Robinson at Hale`iwa By Shannon Reporting

Aussie Jack Robinson’s prowess on the North Shore this year is unmatched. The nickname “Jack Robo” has been on the tip of everyone’s tongue, as we watched the Margaret River native ultimately position himself in line with his World Championship Tour (WCT) qualification dreams by punching through a handful of beautiful blue barrels to combo the field at one of the most challenging venues in the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing— Sunset Beach. His accolades are numerous, especially impressive considering he just turned 22 years old. Robo’s confidence all seemed to snowball after his Volcom Pipe Pro win last season. He was picked up by the Volcom surf team (good on ‘em) and hit the 2019 Qualifying Series with a new sense of ambition and strength, earning 3rd in New Castle, 5th in Chile, 9th in Galicia, and 3rd at the Vans Pro at Sunset Beach, which seems to be the host of some of his best performers. He even got a wildcard in the Margaret River Pro for a taste of the CT stage where he made it through to the quarterfinals against the best in the world.

We’ve been watching Robo attack the Banzai Pipeline since the young age of 11, and he's no stranger to the pit. Growing up at North Point in shark infested Western Aus is sure to put some hair on your chest. Possibly even more hungry than Australian great whites are the

S T O R Y

success in the most competitive arena. Q: Your boards look really sharp under your feet. Have you changed anything this year? JR: Not too much. My boards have always been good. My shaper, Eric Arakawa, has always been on to it, but I think I’ve changed a lot: grown up a lot, gotten bigger and stronger. I’m getting older and working things out a bit more. There are lots of transitions in life… there are always things going against you, but the tight crew around me has helped me to overcome. The people surrounding me are helping me stay calm and focused. Eric Arakawa has supported me pretty much ever since I started coming to Hawai`i making boards for me. He’s a really good friend. We’re a big family, we work together, and I couldn’t be happier for his support. So, the equipment has always been good, but there was a lot going on with me. I finally got through

Q: Seems like you’ve been untouchable every since you won the Volcom Pipe Pro. What does that event mean to you? JR: I always want to do well in the Volcom Pipe Pro. That event pretty much launched me into the year. That’s where it all started; it started here and it finished here at the end of the [competitive] season. I got that first result and this last result… Yeah, the Volcom Pipe Pro was huge for me.

“

Jack just turned 16 and he was in the Sunset Junior Pro and it was bombing. It was really strong offshore, 8-10ft Sunset, real Sunset. It would have been challenging for surfers on the CT and he just dominated. You see people surface every year coming from outside of Hawaii, surfing the North Shore and testing their mettle. And I have never seen someone like Jack, being that young, coming over here and just playing out there, doing turns like he's surfing 3ft Ehukai. It looked like he grew up here and knew Sunset like the back of his hand. He's known for charging big waves, he's known for his tube riding, but he has a small-wave game in his back pocket too, the CT is really where Jack belongs! - Eric Arakawa

local boys looking to get a shot to prove themselves in the Pipe lineup with only a few other guys in the water. We caught up with Jack after his most recent Sunset Beach win to get some insight into what’s lighting up his fire. Between the precision of his Eric Arakawa quiver, to the good vibes of his tight knit crew, the Volcom surfer has figured out how to balance the equation for

that and I’m on to the next stage. Q: Talk us through that particular Hale`iwa session (our new cover shot). JR: Yeah, I remember that wave! It sticks out, from start to finish. That was a big Hale`iwa right from out the back; it was intense. It’s crazy when that wave slams up and comes at you like that. You can go at it with turns with everything you have. If it comes my way, I’m going to hit it.

”

Q: How has Tai Vandyke and the Volcom team been supporting you? JR: The whole crew here at Volcom is really great. They’re backing me 100%. They’re good vibes, good company to be around; it’s just mellow. They’re always supportive and fun; it’s always non-stop laughter over here. This is the best house in front of one of the craziest waves in the world, so I wouldn’t rather be anywhere else.

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Paige Alms and Billy Kemper Win cbdMD Jaws Big Wave Championships

Billy Kemper of Hawaii advances to the final of the 2019 cbdMD Jaws Big Wave Championships after placing second in semifinal heat 2 at Peah'i on December 12, 2019 in Oahu, United States. (Photo by Cait Miers/WSL via Getty Images)

PE’AHI, Maui, Hawaii/USA (Thursday, December 12, 2019) – Today, Paige Alms (HAW) and Billy Kemper (HAW) won the World Surf League (WSL) cbdMD Jaws Big Wave Championships in 30-to-50 foot (9 – 15 meter) waves at the famed Pe’ahi surf break on the north shore of Maui, Hawaii.

Palmateer (AUS) who threw herself over the ledge into death-defying drops to put on a showcase throughout her performances. “I think (showing up early) is partially a good thing and partially a bad thing,” said Reickert. “I showed up and had hours to watch and study the surf and get advice from everybody. But the more you’re out here the more the nerves get to you and get into your head so it was all just about paying attention to what the sets are doing and mentally staying prepared for what you’re about to go do.

The Maui natives swept the event for a second time in their respective careers with Alms earning a historic third victory and Kemper an unprecedented fourth Jaws Challenge title – defending his 2018 win. “I’m so happy and stoked – pretty excited for a cocktail (laughs),” said Alms. “It was some super challenging conditions today. As soon as I paddled out in my first heat the wind was here and I knew the Maui glass was on. To do it three times is all a blur and I’m pretty baffled at the moment. I try to make smart decisions out here and I obviously got pretty beat up at the end of that first wave. I try and pick the good ones, I’m not out there to prove anything to anyone except myself. It’s the ultimate feeling being on a giant wave, it’s when I feel the most alive and so it’s the double-edged sword. You’re putting your body and life on the line to ride these wave but when you successfully ride one nothing beats it.”

“I’m honored to be out here. I didn’t know what to expect and of course my goal was to make it to the Final and just give it my all as well as share the water with these inspirational people like Paige (Alms) who’ve I’ve always looked up to.” The men’s side also proved historic as Maui’s own Kemper claimed an unprecedented fourth victory, going back-to-back once more, at his home break of Pe’ahi – winning the event in 2015, 2016 and 2018 previously. The 29-year-old put on a showcase at the Billabong Pipe Masters in Memory of Andy Irons and carried that momentum into a dominant performance with the day’s highest heat total, a 21.26 (out of a possible 30), in the Final to defend his title.

The ocean came to life after a slow 20-minute start that Maui’s Alms was able to scratch into and drop down the critical face before being swallowed by a mountain of white water. The 2016 and 2017 Jaws Challenge victor sustained a hamstring injury in the process but grabbed a backup jersey and returned back to the lineup. Fellow Maui native and one of the crowd favorites Annie Reickert made her incredible Big Wave debut at just age 18 and stunned those in attendance to earn a third-place finish behind runner-up Felicity

“I feel so amazing right now, I’m over the moon,” said Kemper. “It felt like such a tough dogfight leading all the way to the Final. Every morning I wake up early and I work hard and every sacrifice, time I’ve taken away from my wife and kids, it’s all for this right here. This is my pride and joy. I leave blood, sweat and tears out at Jaws. This is my backyard and I’m very territorial (laughs).

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Paige Alms of Hawaii winning the 2019 cbdMD Jaws Big Wave Championships for the third time in her career at Peah'i on December 12, 2019 in Oahu, United States. (Photo by Keoki Saguibo/WSL via Getty Images)

“I bring my mom everywhere I go, I brought her out there with me today and she kept me safe and my brother Eric I love you guys. I wouldn’t be who I am today without them. This is a really special one after the dogfight. I had a rough Triple Crown after I felt like I performed really well but was just let down in the way things went but what can I say, I did what I wanted to do and this was just my day. I told myself when I went out there in this Final there’s no way I was coming home with second place.”

and being ready for whatever happens right then. Some of them weren’t approachable and it’s more of the wave catching you than you catching the wave.” The cbdMD Jaws Big Wave Championships is proudly supported by cbdMD, Michelob Ultra, Red Bull, and Alexander & Baldwin.

Kemper heaved himself over the ledge of the Final’s first set and locked into a massive barrel which he was able to find an exit from to earn a 7.83. But, he had fellow Maui natives, former Jaws Challenge winner Ian Walsh (HAW) and three-time Finalist Kai Lenny, along with big wave chargers Makuakai Rothman (HAW), Nathan Florence (HAW) and Lucas Chianca (BRA). Lenny stole the lead from Kemper momentarily with his signature power carves on the massive canvas of Pe’ahi’s wave face before Kemper’s near-barrel make earned him a 5.60 for his commitment and wave size. Walsh’s last effort witnessed the island native make an incredible drop down a steep face and narrowly escape a cascading wave behind him to earn a 7.00, just 1.23 short of the requirement.

cbdMD Jaws Big Wave Championships Women’s Final Results: 1 – Paige Alms (HAW) 12.34 2 – Felicity Palmateer (AUS) 5.43 3 – Annie Reichart (HAW) 9.13 4 – Keala Kennelly (HAW) 8.17 5 – Emily Erikson (HAW) 1.40 6 – Michaela Fregonese (BRA) 0.00

“Once the clock starts it’s definitely a different mindset and for me it’s just being on the mental page of ready to send it,” said cbdMD Jaws Challenge Big Wave Championships runner-up Walsh. “Just try to focus on your positioning give yourself an opportunity to make the wave. I think toward the end I start talking to Jaws and asking for a big, black barrel but other than that I’m just staying in the moment 22

cbdMD Jaws Big Wave Championships Men’s Final Results: 1 – Billy Kemper (HAW) 21.26 2 – Ian Walsh (HAW) 20.03 3 – Nathan Florence (HAW) 16.76 4 – Kai Lenny (HAW) 16.26 5 – Makuakai Rothman (HAW) 9.37 6 – Lucas Chianca (BRA) 1.40

“I dreamed of this moment for a really long time, each world title has been a little different and this one was definitely the hardest. Being in the Title race with Caroline and Lakey has been incredible and they’ve both really pushed me. I wouldn’t be here without my amazing support team. I felt so much love on this journey this year and it really pushed me through. This year I wanted to do things a little differently and my non-profit Moore Aloha has really given me that sense of purpose. It feels like things have come full circle and following in Duke’s footsteps in the Olympics gives me chills just to think about it. I hope to go to Tokyo and spread the aloha spirit and I’m really proud and honored to represent the USA and in particular Hawaii.” - Carissa Moore 2019 WSL Women’s World Champion

Photo by Kelly Cestari/WSL via Getty Images

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Carissa Moore Claims Fourth Surfing World Title, Stephanie Gilmore Takes Fifth lululemon Maui Pro Event Win

Three-time WSL Champion Carissa Moore of Hawaii wins her Fourth World Title at the 2019 Lululemon Maui Pro at Honolua Bay on December 2, 2019 in Maui, United States. (Photo by Cait Miers/WSL via Getty Images)

HONOLUA BAY, Maui, Hawaii/USA (Monday, December 2, 2019) - Carissa Moore (HAW) won the 2019 World Surf League (WSL) Title at the lululemon Maui Pro, the final stop on the WSL Women’s Championship Tour (CT). Moore’s victory comes following her provisional qualification for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Although she defeated her closest opponent, 17-year-old Caroline Marks (USA), to clinch her fourth World Title, the two will represent America together as surfing makes its Olympic debut in Tokyo next year.

Peterson’s elimination yesterday, Marks was the last contender standing to stop Moore. Unfortunately for Marks, she fell to seventime WSL Champion Gilmore in the Quarterfinals. “This year has been so amazing and I just want to thank everyone in my corner, I wouldn’t be here without them,” said Marks. “That heat was pretty tricky and I think my first wave was the difference, maybe if I had made that turn I would’ve made the heat, but Mike (Parsons) said if you don’t go for it you’re not going to win. The way you win Titles and events is going for it so I was stoked I went for it. Steph is such a hard competitor and so good at competing. Unfortunately, it didn’t go my way but congratulations to Carissa. She’s so inspiring and this year’s just been amazing so I’m really stoked to be a part of it.”

“That was crazy and I was trying to keep my focus and emotions in check,” said Moore. “This is incredible! It’s been years of work and years of growing and learning. It’s been a journey and I’ve been really looking forward to this moment, but it hasn’t sunk in yet. So many of my family and friends are here and I’m so excited to share this with them.”

Gilmore’s event win marks her fifth victory in Maui (2007, 2008, 2009, 2017, 2019) and the 31st CT win of her career, besting her own record today. The Australian took down the now four-time WSL Champion Moore in the Semifinals, Marks in Quarterfinals, and Wright in the Final.

Moore’s 2019 season is a remarkable example of consistency. In the season’s ten events, Moore hasn’t lost before the Quarterfinals, racking up three wins (South Africa, France, Portugal), two runner-up finishes, three equal 3rds and two equal 5ths to seal the deal on her fourth World Title. She is the only Top 17 surfer who managed to advance into the Quarters or better at all the events this year. Moore was stopped in the Semifinals by Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) who went on to defeat Tyler Wright (AUS) in the Final.

“I found myself sitting there in good positions in the lead next to these girls and it just brought back these thrilling feelings and memories of being in World Title races,” said Gilmore. “There is so much on the line and I think I just kicked into a new gear. Amazing event and year for everybody. And, of course, it is so good to have Tyler back. I could not have thought of a better person to share the Final with. She is surfing better than ever so I cannot wait to see her next year and sure you will be as dangerous as ever.”

Moore’s achievement comes following the elimination of opponents Lakey Peterson (USA) and Marks at the lululemon Maui Pro. After

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Three-time WSL Champion Carissa Moore of Hawaii placed second in the Heat 2 of the Semifinals of the 2019 Lululemon Maui Pro at Honolua Bay on December 2, 2019 in Maui, United States. (Photo by Ed Sloane/WSL via Getty Images)

Gilmore's success today sees her finish the season in fourth place on the Jeep Leaderboard. Although not in Title contention at this event, Gilmore is ready for battle in the upcoming year with the new CT season and the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. “Congratulations to Carissa and to Caroline,” continued Gilmore. “Caroline is an incredible asset to our sport and has so many future years and multiple World Titles to come, I can see it already. Congratulations to all the girls and to all the Olympians. See you in Tokyo. This has been a monumental year for us with equal prize money. It has done so much more for women in sport, and women in all kinds of industries in the workplace around the world, to show people what should be normal, that equality should be normal. I am really proud to be a part of that and to have the WSL lead the way in that way. That is really special.”

Carissa Moore of Hawaii wins her Fourth WSL World Title at the 2019 Lululemon Maui Pro at Honolua Bay on December 2, 2019 in Maui, United States. (Photo by Cait Miers/WSL via Getty Images)

lululemon Maui Pro Final Results: lululemon Maui Pro 1 - Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 14.16 Quarterfinal Results: QF 1: Tatiana Weston-Webb 2 - Tyler Wright (AUS) 9.67 (BRA) 15.07 def. Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 12.00 lululemon Maui Pro Semifinal QF 2: Tyler Wright (AUS) 10.84 Results: SF 1: Tyler Wright (AUS) 13.00 DEF. def. Johanne Defay (FRA) 10.74 QF 3: Carissa Moore (HAW) 16.00 Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 7.33 def. Nikki Van Dijk (AUS) 10.90 SF 2: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) QF 4:Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 15.94 DEF. Carissa Moore (HAW) 13.73 def. Caroline Marks (USA) 15.07 11.50

Two-time WSL Champion Tyler Wright of Australia placed second in the final of the 2019 Lululemon Maui Pro at Honolula Bay on December 2, 2019 in Maui, United States. (Photo by Ed Sloane/WSL via Getty Images)

MAN ULE L E AWAR D S Celebrating Hawai‘i’s Top Water Men and Women

Vote Online! www.freesurfmagazine.com 2019 Manulele Awards Nominees Top Female Carissa Moore Coco Ho Moana Jones Malia Manuel

Most Progressive Eli Hanneman Seth Moniz Barron Mamiya Jamie O’Brien

Top Junior (18 and under) Eli Hanneman Bettylou Sakura Johnson Brodi Sale Jackson Bunch

Top Male Seth Moniz John John Florence Nathan Florence Ezekiel Lau

Big Wave Charger Nathan Florence Makua Rothman Billy Kemper Kai Lenny

Longboard Honolua Blomfeld Kaniela Stewart Kelia Moniz Kelis Kaleopaa

Presented By

Web Surfer John John Florence Alana Blanchard Mason Ho Jamie O'Brien Koa Rothman

SECON D GEN ER ATION WA I MEA BAY C H A RGER , EMI ER IC K SON

The unofficial queen of Waimea Bay, Emily Erickson has followed in her legendary father’s footsteps as one of the North Shore’s best big wave surfers. Dedicated to traditional single fins, you’ve probably seen her now-iconic black striped Lyle Carlson 10’6’’ gun. It’s taken on a life of its own, so she says. From the outer reef of the Hawaiian Islands to the cold waters of Peru, the Oah'u-born charger definitely has the travel bug, always keen for new adventure and new experiences. At 29-years-young, the future for her career and women’s big wave surfing is limitless. I’ve had the pleasure of traveling with this lovely wahine throughout her competitive campaign--through the highs of a win in Nelscott Reef, Oregon, and a second place in pumping Puerto Escondido Cup, and through the lows of a season-ending knee injury during the Peahi Challenge in which she underwent emergency surgery. But that didn’t stop her one bit! Training hard during recovery, in-tune with a healthy diet and physical fitness, Emi is tough as nails with thick skin. She believes in herself and the sport, her roots in soul surfing are deep and strong. She has proven her skills in the big wave arena, so much so that this winter her biggest dream has been realized as an official invitee to The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. Once again, following in the foot-steps of veteran lifeguard Roger Erickson, who also surfed in a handful of Eddie events, Emi has paved a way not only for herself, but for the women to have absolutely no excuses not to charge big waves and live their dreams. Emi Erickson would go, and she will go as soon as the Bay calls the day. Surfing amongst the men’s lineup of top big wave elite, she has earned her spot with love and dedication, and there’s no stopping her. Freesurf Mag had the honor of documenting a unique shaping experience on the North Shore, as shaper Lyle Carlson and the legend himself, Roger Erickson, helped make a replica of his traditional single-fin gun with his daughter to surf in the most prestigious event of its kind--The Eddie.

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Shannon Reporting

SECON D GEN ER ATION WA I MEA BAY C H A RGER , EMI ER IC K SON

Congratulations are in order for you invitation to The Eddie Aikau!

being part of the first handful of Eddie’s, big wave surfing, and lifeguarding

Thank you! It feels really incredible to be honest. I love surfing the Bay. For

knowledge—which is what we celebrate with Eddie every year. Everyone on

every big wave surfer, it is the dream. It feels like the continuation of my

the North Shore is more than aware of this: it doesn’t seem like a very likely

journey, pretty fateful. I love it; I’m stoked!

outcome as a woman that you’ll be invited. But I, personally, have very strong conviction with the things I feel connected to and the things I am supposed

You’ve been surfing the Bay for a while now, and you also have a legacy

to do. So it feels like an incredible honor, but also an inedible move forward

to follow at Waimea as the next generation following after your father

in my personal journey, and also for the Aikau family and the progression of

[Roger Erickson]. How does it feel to follow in the footsteps of your

the contest. The memory of Eddie also has to evolve, you know; we have to

family?

celebrate each other and look out for one another. It’s about selflessness, but

It’s crazy because when you’re

you can’t be selfless if you’re restricted

growing up, you don’t always want

to only one gender. That’s not selfless

to end up like your parents. I never

at all. So it’s a really important lesson

really thought about that too much,

that is just getting started. It will be

but it’s weird to realize how similar

really cool to see where it goes.

we all really are. With surfing, the continuation (whether it's the board,

Other than Dad, who do you look

the style, or the knowledge) and

up to for inspiration?

whatever we bring to it. I’ve been

I know it sounds weird, but I’m like

able to carry on a lot of things

the old man in a young woman’s body.

unintentionally, which is why I allude

I started boogie boarding at Sunset and

to the faithful side of things. It just

just fell in love. I survived and learned

feels right. It’s pretty cool when you

a lot about the water, and the next year

carry the torch for the single fins,

I was into surfing; that’s kind of my

family, women’s rights and equality,

story. I got right into big waves on old

and a change in the way society

school guns because that’s what Dad

works—especially here on the North Shore. It is so trippy… [laughs].

had laying around, and at that point (over a decade ago) some of the much older guys were still out there. Buttons [Kaluhiokalani] stands out, because

There definitely seems to be a changing of the guard. What does it

he always had such an infectiously positive attitude, and especially towards

mean for women to finally be invited to The Eddie?

me. He was such a big supporter. Anytime I’d see him in the surf he’d say,

A decade ago, when I fell back into surfing and surf culture, I immediately

“Just go! Screw those guys.” [Laughs] Having that kind of energy around you

loved big waves. And when you start something from that angle, just doing

is incredibly helpful. It’s a great reminder and example of the things that I’d

something that you love, even having the background that I do like dad

like to embody, too, so that I can affect other people in positive ways like he 30

wave starts to change. Now, 18-20 ft

learned a lot from all the old guys.

— that’s really a beautiful size to surf

It’s funny; it’s really hard to pick just

the Bay because the sets are going to

one person that stands out.

be the way I like it: super walled, with this big mountain of water coming at

Many of the tourists visiting

you. You have to know what you’re

Waimea seem more fascinated

doing and have the conviction to

by the shorebreak. What’s it like

put your head down and paddle. It’s

getting in and out of there?

really fun... [smiles and sighs] What

Oh gosh… There’s a lot of current

was the question again?

Shannon Reporting

affected me…. Other than that, I’ve

in the Bay when the waves are big. Where it’s breaking on the point

You had great results last season

when you’re looking out from the

in the competitive realm (winning

beach is where it’s going to have

in Nelscott Reef, second in

lots of water moving with so much

Puerto Escondido, and third

power, and it circulates in the Bay. So

in the Pe'ahi Challenge) all on

if you’re trying to get in the water to

your recognizable Lyle Carlson

go surf, you have to time it with the

surfboard. That single-fin seems

shorebreak and the incoming sets,

to be working well for you. And

plus the current that’s going to be

today, you’re making a replica?

running through—especially after the

Eight years ago we made my

sets—in order to try to make it out

infamous black stripe board, which

in the middle. There are also big lefts

has since then taken on a life of its

coming into the Bay that if you get

own. Inspired by The Eddie Aikau

caught in, you’re smoked. That’s not

announcement, we came back to

very fun.

make another. Mahalo to Jimbo Yarborough for letting us borrow

Describe the wave when it’s

his shaping room, and to Shannon

proper Waimea.

Reporting for Freesurf Magazine for

When Waimea is really big, it’s in a

being there to witness.

different category from 10-15 foot as well, but when it’s over 18 ft, the

Shannon Reporting

Pinballs. Those are exciting times

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“The Season,” as it’s known on the North Shore, roughly corresponds to the six weeks of competition, events, freesurfs, parties, and shenanigans during the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing window. A global pilgrimage of competitive warriors, heavywave chargers, freeloaders, hanger-ons, and everyone in-between converge on this storied sliver of coast to revel in the surfing supernova that is “The Season.” The contests do a great job of quantifying winners and losers on their given days, and as much attention and fanfare the official events rightfully receive, the moments between the heats are no less spectacular. With the sheer bounty of waves this season, performance levels have been through the roof. Here are a few who have made their mark.

Beyond all the hype that comes with the peak of the North Shore season, one thing remains pure, a surfer and their engagement with its waves. Flynn Novak cloaked in the glow of Pipeline. Photo: Christa Funk

Koa Rothman and Jack Germain, “This is Livin.” Every second is a moment. Photo: Gonzo

You don’t work a day in your life if you love what you do. Derek Ho’s eternal stoke. Photo: Gonzo

Nathan Fletcher and Flynn Novak, two of Pipeline’s best, post-session talk-story. Photo: Gonzo

The North Shore bike path is a grom’s super highway. Photo: Gonzo

Vans World Cup champ and recent CT qualifier, Jack Robinson, preevent training with Volcom coach Jason Shibata. Photo: Mike Latronic

Nate Yeomans, Pipeline exit bliss. Photo: Mike Latronic

Young North Shore phenom Barron Mamiya came devastatingly close to qualifying for the 2020 World Championship Tour this year. With his performances along the 7-mile miracle this season, Mamiya has clearly established himself as a CT-level talent and his ascension to the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dream Tourâ&#x20AC;? in 2021 is an all but foregone conclusion. Mamiya driving forward at Rocky Rights. Photo: Mike Latronic

The peanut gallery at the 50-yard line. Volcom Pipe House. Photo: Gonzo

Young charger Moana Jones hopping on the Pipeline freight train. Photo: Brian Bielmann

The North Shore equivalent of a wine cellar. Photo: Gonzo

Brazilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Yago Dora is probably best known for his above-the-lip acrobatics, but behind the airs and tail-wafts is a rock-solid foundation of power and form. Dora perfectly poised at Pipeline. Photo: Gonzo

Hailing from the land of lefts, Peruvian Miguel Tudela is no stranger to frontside perfection. But, there's perfect and then thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pipeline. Tudela on a Pipe bomb, taking perfection to another realm. Photo: Mike Latronic

Griffin Colapinto photo: Latronic

Danny Fuller photo: Latronic

Shakas abound when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re doing turns like these.

It has been well established that San Clementeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Griffin Colapinto thrives on the North Shore. The 2017 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing champion has been one of the standout performers in freesurfs up and down the coast. From spot to spot, his unique mix of form and explosive power has set the bar (really high) this season. Backdoor power hook. Photo: Ryan Miller

Artist, Model, Pipeline Charger - Danny Fuller is a man of many talents. While those exploits have garnered Fuller the most attention, high performance ripper could easily be added to that impressive list. The Kaua'i native has been making his mark on the North Shore in waves of all sizes for more seasons than he can probably count. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fuller, in familiar territory, obliterating an OTW lip. Photo: Mike Latronic

Coming into the Hawai'i season, all eyes were on Italo Ferreira, who was sitting in the top spot on the WSL rankings with a legitimate shot at his first world title. In recent years, title contenders have kept extremely low profiles to avoid the prying eyes of the media and the risk of injury. Ferreira flipped that script on its head, putting as much time in the water between Pipe and Off The Wall as anyone. Surfing full throttle from 2ft-to-10ft, whether it was chucking full extended airs over near dry reef on the smaller days, to his fearless attack at serious Pipe and Backdoor, Ferreira was a man possessed this season. Ferreira locked and loaded at Pipe. Photo: Frederico Vanno

As far as surfers go, Conner Coffin leads a pretty charmed existence. He was raised in the pointbreak-rich region of Santa Barbara, he’s a well-established member of the “Dream Tour,” does extended residencies in Tavarua, and has a family home on the North Shore. Despite these comforts and his many accomplishments, Coffin remains humble to the core and as surf-stoked as they come. Coffin, counting his blessings at Backdoor. Photo: Gonzo

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Honolua Blomfield Wins Her Second WSL World Longboard Championship in Taiwan

THE LEFT, TAITUNG / TPE (Saturday, December 7, 2019) - Honolua Blomfield (HAW) has won her second WSL World Longboard Title at the 2019 WSL Taiwan Open World Longboard Championships. After a super consistent year for the 20-year-old Hawaiian, everything culminated in pumping but challenging, five-to-six foot surf at ‘The Left’ in Taitung. Blomfield claimed the Championship along with the event win. Blomfield had all the odds stacked against her needing not only to win the event, but, also for Longboard Tour rankings leader Chloe Calmon (BRA) to be eliminated in the Semifinals or earlier. Blomfield couldn’t focus on anything but her own surfing and had to leave the rest to fate. After Calmon’s shock Semifinal exit, to avoid a surf-off for the title, Blomfield had to beat Alice Lemoigne (FRA) in their 35-minute match-up. Blomfield never looked like faltering in the Final, posting a heat total of 12.67 early, nose riding through critical sections on set waves and flowing across the slow sections. She then tactically sat with priority until the dying seconds when she took off on the last wave of the heat to take her second World Title in three years.

feel like all of the odds were against me and then I made the comeback. I always knew I could win it but I just took it heat by heat then somehow it all came into place and now here I am – I’m just so stoked.” To take the win, Blomfield overcame Brasilian Chloe Calmon who came into the final event of the season with a decent lead but needed to finish higher Blomfield in Taiwan. Unfortunately for Calmon, Blomfield was too consistent on Finals day leaving her to finish runner-up to the World title for her third year. “It’s always so scary doing battle with Chloe,” Blomfield continued. “She is such an incredible surfer and always gets the best out of me. I just want to thank my family and sponsors for always supporting me. I still can’t believe I’m World Champion again.” Taiwan Open World Longboard Championships Women's Final Results: HEAT 1: Honolua Blomfield (HAW) 12.17 DEF. Alice Lemoigne (FRA) 11.97 Taiwan Open World Longboard Championships Men's Final Results: HEAT 1: Rodrigo Sphaier (BRA) 16.60 DEF. Taylor Jensen (USA) 13.27

“I’m so stoked I don’t even know what to say,” Blomfield said. “I’m so thankful to be a part of this week. I 48

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Jack Robinson Wins Vans World Cup of Surfing, Qualifies for Championship Tour

Honolua Blomfield from Hawaii wins the 2019 World Longboarding Championship and wins the 2019 Taiwan Open World Longboarding Championship at Jinzun Harbour on December 7, 2019 in Taitung County, Taiwan (Photo by Matt Dunbar/ WSL via Getty Images)

Haleiwa, Oahu/HAWAII -- (Monday, December 2, 2019) – Jack Robinson (AUS) earned an exalted victory at the Vans World Cup of Surfing with the best Final heat total in Sunset Beach history and claimed the last spot on the World Surf League (WSL) Men’s 2020 Championship Tour (CT) by way of the Qualifying Series (QS). The second event of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and final WSL QS competition of the year, Robinson earned 10,000 points to surge from No. 22 on the QS to No. 5 and edge out runner-up Ezekiel Lau (HAW) from CT requalification. Robinson will join the world’s best for his very first run on the dream tour.

to win the event to ascend to the 2020 CT. Robinson’s brilliance was undeniably incomparable. He found barrels by design and went to work early, only to throw away 7-point rides for near-perfect 9’s. With fifteen minutes left in the 35-minute heat, Robinson hunted a gem and stalled to maximize his time in the tube for a 9.40 to combo the field. Straight offshore easterly winds groomed Sunset’s barrel section as the north swell delivered waves in the 6-8ft. range and Robinson went on to post a 9.67 for a powerful turn in the pocket followed by another throaty barrel. He made a statement by absolutely dominating the field with the event’s highest single wave score, heat total, and the win.

A key element to his success today, Robinson found choice barrels under priority and racked up a colossal 19.07 two-wave total in the Final, touted as the greatest result in the entire history of competitive surfing at Sunset Beach, which spans over four decades.

“I’ve been surfing out here a long time, I don’t know, maybe Sunset just threw me a lucky charm,” continued Robinson. “It came together, that’s how I wanted a final to come together. I feel like I built up this whole time, I wasn’t really surfing my best the whole time and then when the sections came, then I did what I could. I did the best I could for that wave so I felt like I peaked at the right time.”

“I was on point,” said Robinson. “We’re ready. It was a while coming. A lot of build-up to this. I felt like I wanted to get on [the CT] earlier but it happens when it happens. Time is the owner of it sometimes. Been working really hard this year clearing things up in my mind and I’m in a good place. I’m ready!”

Third place finisher Ewing ended the QS season No. 8 after finaling at the Hawaiian Pro, the first stop of the Vans Triple Crown, and again today at the Vans World Cup. He added 13,000 points to his QS ranking and will jump back on tour in 2020 for his second year, his first being in 2017.

The final was a hefty mix of talent including Ethan Ewing (AUS) and Maui’s Cody Young (HAW), who took third and fourth place respectively, and held heavy implications for all four athletes. Lau’s loss was the biggest of all as his second-place result put him just shy of the points needed to re-qualify. The Hawaiian was on fire throughout the entire competition and won every heat up until the Final, but needed

“I had a really low rating coming in to here so I definitely wasn’t planning on qualifying," said Ewing. "I just wanted to get a few good 50

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Defending champ Ezekiel Lau of Hawaii advances to the Semifinals of the 2019 Vans World Cup of Surfing after placing first in Quarterfinal Heat 1 at Sunset Beach on December 02, 2019 in Hawaii, USA. (Photo by Keoki Saguibo/WSL via Getty Images)

results and a few good heats and learn a lot more about the waves over here.”

The 2019 Men’s QS season is officially over and the top ten surfers have been confirmed for the 2020 CT. The WSL now moves to worldfamous Pipeline for the Billabong Pipe Masters, the final event of the Vans Triple Crown and culmination of the 2019 Men’s CT.

With his two excellent results, he established himself as the 2019 Vans Triple Crown leader, which will be cinched up at the third and final event, the Billabong Pipe Masters from December 8 - 20. Ewing will have the opportunity to go further in the race since he earned a spot in the Pipe Invitational, a high-stakes trials event that awards the two top surfers a spot into the Billabong Pipe Masters.

2019 Vans World Cup of Surfing | Final Results 1. Jack Robinson (AUS) 19.07 2. Ezekiel Lau (HAW) 12.06 3. Ethan Ewing (AUS) 11.10

“It’s pretty crazy, I wasn’t expecting to be in the lead, I just wanted to surf well over here and finish the year better than I started,” Ewing continued. “I think I’ll be in the trials for Pipe and yeah, just see how it plays out. But not having high expectations of the Triple Crown.”

4. Cody Young (HAW) 8.70

Ethan Ewing of Australia advances to the Semifinals of the 2019 Vans World Cup of Surfing after placing second of Quarterfinal Heat 3 at Sunset Beach on December 02, 2019 in Hawaii, USA. (Photo by Keoki Saguibo/WSL via Getty Images)

Jack Robinson of Australia is the winner of the 2019 Vans World Cup of Surfing on December 02, 2019 in Hawaii, USA(Photo by Keoki Saguibo/WSL via Getty Images)

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Frederico Morais Wins Hawaiian Pro, Qualifies for 2020 Championship Tour Haleiwa, Oahu/HAWAII -- (Sunday, November 24, 2019) – Portugal’s Frederico Morais (PRT) won the Hawaiian Pro with sure-footed power surfing and a veteran edge over Leonardo Fioravanti (ITA), Matthew McGillivray (ZAF) and Ethan Ewing (AUS) who placed second, third and fourth respectively in the Final at Haleiwa Ali’i Beach. The victory cements Morais’ status back on the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour (CT) and an early lead on the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing title race. The Hawaiian Pro is the second-to-last Men’s WSL Qualifying Series (QS) 10,000 event and first gem of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Morais’ career launched in 2016 when he scored back-to-back runnerup results at the Hawaiian Pro and Vans World Cup and qualified for his first run on the CT. That same year he ranked third in the Vans Triple Crown title race, but today’s achievement is a career-best. He needed to place third or higher in the Hawaiian Pro to guarantee a place back among the world’s best and after gaining 10,000 points today, Morais jumped up five spots and is now sitting No. 1 on the QS.

“It’s so good to be back in Hawaii,” Morais said. “After three finals, two second places, a fourth place, it definitely feels good to win and to be back here in Hawaii and back on tour, that was my main goal this year. It was a really tough one last year when I couldn’t fight back at Pipeline with an injury on my ankle. Coming back this year has been an amazing journey.” “That would be a dream,” Morais said on winning a Vans Triple Crown title. “In 2016 when I first qualified I was fighting for the Triple Crown as well and Sunset is a wave I love. Everyone is looking good, there are some really tough opponents, so just going to keep surfing and enjoying myself.” The power surfer was in-form throughout the event as Haleiwa threw every condition at surfers over five days of competition. In the Final, Morais was patient and waited for nearly half the heat before posting his first score, a 6.00 for two powerful turns.

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Runner-up Fioravanti stayed busy in the four-man Final and earned the best single wave score of the heat, a 7.67 for a two-turn combination that moved him from third to first. However, Morais answered back with detonating force on multiple maneuvers that judges awarded a 6.77 and he took the lead again. A dislocated shoulder sidelined Fioravanti for half of the 2019 CT season, but he blasted back from injury only two months ago by earning third place at the Quiksilver Pro France, Men's CT stop No. 9 out of 11. Today’s second place finish sees him move up 138 spots on the QS ratings to No. 36, but his sights are set on a Vans Triple Crown title. “The Triple Crown is the main goal, and I’m really happy,” Fioravanti said. “It’s been a tough year to come to Hawaii and do this. I pretty much have a Hawaiian family now cheering for me here, I couldn’t be happier.” Fioravanti stayed focused in the lineup today but was unable to find a backup score to better his 3.83 and ended the competition with 8,000 points. Third-placing

surfer McGillivray had the weight of qualification on his shoulders, as a win would have officially gained him his first year on the CT. But he surfed with casual confidence and found a barrel in the Final to lock in a 5.83, his high score of the heat. The 22-year-old from Jeffrey’s Bay took on a veteran field in the Semifinals and eliminated twotime Hawaiian Pro winner Michel Bourez (PYF) and eleven-time World Champion Kelly Slater (USA) en route to the Final. Stealthily stacking the results, McGillivray is in a strong position heading into the Vans World Cup, where his best result was a Quarterfinal finish in 2018. With only seconds remaining in the Final, fourth-place finisher Ewing made a last-ditch effort to advance, but could not back up his 6.40 score. The Australian seemed poised to take the win given his sharp surfing from the onset of the Hawaiian Pro; He won four of six heats and scored a near-perfect 9.00 on the biggest day of surf during Round 4. With a Vans Triple Crown Rookie Award under his belt, Ewing will move onto Sunset Beach with determination to finish in the top ten on the QS. 2019 Hawaiian Pro | Final 1. Frederico Morais (POR) 12.77 2. Leonardo Fioravanti (ITA) 11.50 3. Matthew McGillivray (RSA) 10.33 4. Ethan Ewing (AUS) 9.67

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Nick Gruen, capturing underwater surf photos at Teahupo'o in Tahiti—renowned for some of the heaviest waves in the world.

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“The last thing you want to hear is that you’ll never be able to do something you love again. The rehabilitation team at KMC saw my passion, gave me hope and got me back in the water…”

At Kahuku Medical Center, we are pleased to offer state-of-the-art rehab services, including: • Physical Therapy • Occupational Therapy • Speech Therapy

“When the toll of past surf injuries compounded one day, my back completely gave out and friends had to pull me from the water. The pain was excruciating. Having busted up seven vertebrae, the prognosis from some medical professionals was bleak: you’ll never heal enough and get strong enough to go back in the water like you used to. Yet at Kahuku Medical Center, the rehab services team appreciated how much being able to be in the ocean meant to me. They understand surf culture and come from that world as well. They helped me do the hard work I needed to heal, and with their care, expertise and encouragement, I’m back doing what I love.”

- Nick Gruen of Laie,

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L I T E R A T U R E

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HI 1K - 10 Years /1000 Moments On The North Shore of Hawaii By Mara Pyzel

For Justin Jay, making the pilgrimage to the Mecca of surfing came later in life than he had originally hoped. But when the esteemed bi-coastal photographer finally found himself on O`ahu’s North Shore, he sure made up for lost time. The Santa Barbara, Californiaraised surfer dedicated ten winters to capturing the essence of the North Shore on film. Boiling a decade’s worth of images down to 1,000 photos, Jay’s newest release, HI 1K - 10 Years /1000 Moments On The North Shore of Hawaii, shares the unmatchable experience of the big wave season - the parties, the characters, the beach-goers, the trouble-makers, and the moments of career-making and breaking - in a series of commentary and candid photos from both land and sea. (Top photo) It was late afternoon and I was on Kelly Slater’s porch with a few people. There was one woman who I didn’t recognize holding a rectangular plastic box about the size of a loaf of bread. She asked Kelly if he had a knife or a screwdriver. When

he returned, she began carefully unscrewing the end of the blue box. She explained to me what was inside, smiled sheepishly, and asked if I would help her by holding open a large ziplock bag. She delicately proceeded to dump the contents of the box into

ashes of legendary Australian surfer Michael Peterson, who died in 2012. We placed the plastic bag of Peterson’s ashes into a satchel and gave them to Kelly. He paddled out at dusk to spread them in the ocean against a spectacular amber sunset.

the plastic bag. Despite her best efforts to contain it, tiny wisps of the chunky light-gray powder blew away in the salty Hawaiian wind. Between my thumbs and forefingers, I was holding the

(Center photo) The entire surf community mourned the 2013 passing of Montgomery Ernest Thomas Kaluhiokalani, aka “Buttons.” He was a true original and a style master. The 58

day I took this photo, I had spent the afternoon shooting with him at Sunset. We ended up back at his house for some lunch. Suddenly, for no apparent reason, Buttons ap- peared with a huge grin wearing this pink wig. I snagged a few frames and then he disappeared back inside

his living room. It was no secret that Buttons had struggled with substance abuse and endured some legal problems in the past. But he had managed to put that chapter behind him and he seemed to be in a very content and positive place in life. At one point I found myself alone with him in his kitchen. Out of the blue, he looked at me and confessed, “Even with all of the trouble that I got myself into, I never did anything bad to anyone else... I only hurt myself.” I was taken aback by his candor, but I was touched that he had confided something so personal to me. Later that afternoon, I found myself singing karaoke in his living room with his wife, Hiriata, and the legendary shaper Reno Abellira. I love this picture because it captures the warm spirit that Buttons always radiated whenever I got to shoot with him. HI 1K - 10 Years / 1000 Moments On Hawaii’s North Shore - is available at hi1k.com

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4th Annual Keiki Kontest presented by Nā Kama Kai By Aloha Pa’akaula Photos: Mike Ito

Nā Kama Kai presented the 4th Annual Makaha Keiki Surf Kontest on December 1, 2019. This year, approximately 104 keiki entered. Breakfast and lunch were provided by Kamoa’s Kitchen, at no cost and each participant received an Aloha Modern gift bag full of prized items, including school supplies, T&C Surf Shop merchandise and more. All finalists received gorgeous glass trophies and medals and the top contestants received a custom surfboard from Styles Hawaiì M2 Boards, bodyboard from North Swell, LLC or skateboard from Hoòkuì Pono, LLC. Water Patrol was provided by Uncle Brian Keaulana, and our founder, Duane DeSoto on Jetskis who kept the water clear and safe from hazards and certified Mākaha lifeguards watching the beach and keiki rolling in the shore break. The day started off overcast with the call being made at 5:00AM that the contest was on. Duane and his team of staff and volunteers quickly and efficiently completed set up for the day in order for families to start rolling in at 6:00AM to complete beach entries and check in. The keiki from the Nā Kama Kai Alakaì program welcomed the crowd of approximately 300 people with E Hō Mai after morning briefing and pule. The waves were rolling in at 4-6 feet. Duane notified the òhana in attendance, “Safety is number one. If your keiki don’t feel comfortable going out, they don’t have to.” Emphasizing the Nā Kama Kai acronym, K.A.I. to participants, which stands for Know your Limits, Ask a Lifeguard & Identify the Hazards. Keiki were still welcomed to get their gift bags even if they were didn’t go out. The day cleared up for the 6 & under Kōkua Division who kicked off the contest which ran in 15 minute heats until the sun started to set. The winners were announced by spotlight as the sun quickly went down. Keiki saw the aloha being shared by everyone throughout the day which lead to the two 1st place kids in the Boys 10 & under and Boys 12 & under, Hōkūwelo & Kalā DeSoto, giving their picks to the 4th and 6th place winners in their divisions. Makaialiì Carroll & Yoshi Gouveia’s faces lit up with joy! As did all the other keiki when they received their gift bags and prizes. Their smiles made the event the most memorable yet.

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IN D USTRY N O TES

Channel Islands mourns Jake Burton

Wyatt McHale Recovering from Knee Surgery

Vans team rider Wyatt McHale Is up and walking now, but taking it slow. “So I had this thing called Osteochondritis dissecans. It is basically a bone defect where a part of the bone in my knee was disintegrated. It happened because I grew so fast and surfed on it so much,” explained McHale in mid-December. “I got a surgery where they cut my knee open down to the bone and replaced the disintegrated bone with a cadaver bone. I’m still recovering but my knee is feeling good and I’m on track to make a total recovery!” We’ll see you in the water soon, Wyatt!

Kanoa Igarashi wins JASA Athlete of the Year Award

Decked out in a Dior suit, Kanoa Igarashi humbly accepted Japan Action Sports Awards (JASA) in a ceremony held in Tokyo in late November. The Japanese-born, Southern California-raised surfer reps Japan on the WSL world stage. Cheers to the hard-earned notoriety, Kanoa!

doesn’t matter if you are Filipe Toledo or Luke Tema, all the riders are an important part of the `ohana. Sun Bum team plays games like football or ping pong, has breakfast, takes photos, and - of course - gets killer products and goes for a surf! The Sun Bum team loves these gatherings so much they have them at least a couple of times a year.

Jake Burton, founder of Burton Snowboards, died Nov. 21st from complications related to cancer. He was 65. Burton (the company) bought Al Merrick’s Channel Islands Surfboards in 2006. “Your friendship and belief in us will never be forgotten,” said Channel Islands in a statement.

Gear Up for 2020’s Volcom Pipe Pro

Rothman and others dedicated a Friday evening to signing posters, t-shirts, posing for pictures, and chatting it up with delighted young fans. The annual event is a fundraiser for the host school, Sunset Beach Elementary from which the Florences, Koa Rothman, Coco Ho, Honolua Blomfield, and Mark Healey all graduated.

Vans holds Duct Tape Invitational in Haleiwa

Dylan Graves, Dane Reynolds, Tosh Tudor, Harry Bryant and others from the Vans team got goofy on the longboardable waves of Puena Point. The Duct Tape Invitational is a day filled with lots of laughs as points are awarded to contestants for creativity, party waves, and style while riding traditional single-fin longboards.

It’s coming… January 29th - February 10th the Volcom Pipe Pro holds its legendary showdown. This year, Volcom is donating $10,000 to The Sion Milosky Foundation, committed to youth surfing development and ocean safety. Be the first of your friends to get your 2020 Pipe Pro gear - we are digging the special edition collab with cartoon artist Drew Toonz Short Sleeve tee. For sun protection while watching the contest, rock the official VPP Stone Mesh XFit Hat with the Hawaiian Island chain overlaying the classic Volcom Stone. And you’ll thank us later when you have your VPP Zip Fleece hoodie keeping you warm during your next dawn patrol or when getting out of the water after a sunset sesh.

Bronco Wine Co.

On December 5th, Waimea Bay was host to the Big Wave Invitational’s opening ceremony. The community was invited to gather alongside Paige Alms, Billy Kemper, Mark Healey, Nathan Florence, John John Florence, Landon McNamara, Keala Kennelly, and others as they partook in a blessing, paddle out, then broke bread with friends and family. The big wave holding period runs through the end of February.

Successful Surf Night at Sunset Beach Elementary School

Jack Johnson’s hosts Opening for New Community Space in Haleiwa

Who doesn't enjoy a wine after a long day surfing or at work? Mahalo to the good folks at Bronco Wines Co. for sending over some tasty samples... and even better yet they have cool names like "Reef Break Red..."

Sun Bum hosts ‘Ohana Team Day at Ehukai Beach Park

The elementary school with an unbeatable view of Pipeline held its annual Surf Night. Pros Carissa Moore, Owen Wright, Kelly Slater, Makuakai

Whenever there are enough of them in one spot, Sun Bum gets the team riders together. It’s an awesome day because it

The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational Opening Ceremony Recap

Local singer/songwriter and lifelong ripper Jack Johnson held a pule blessing ceremony for his newest endeavor in the heart of Haleiwa. Johnson and

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I N D USTRY N O TES wife Kim are expanding their Hawai`i-based environmental nonprofit Kōkua Hawai`i Foundation’s presence to the center of the North Shore and invited the community to be a part of the unveiling. While plans for the land are ever-evolving, the North Shore community can look forward to community classes and events, a plastic-free retail store, and a farm-fresh market with locally sourced eats.

WOW. Go Pro Hero 8

The big win of the cage-less design for many will be the new Mods that can be added to the Hero 8.The Media Mod. It adds a 3.5 mm mic jack, HDMI port, and a shotgun mic, along with two cold-shoe mounts. It's the first major redesign the Hero has seen in years. The stabilization, of course, is next level.

Plastics Ban Bill 40 Passes!

A huge mahalo to JAX Pizza, Kona Brewing Co., Steel My Straws, and conscientious surfers like Cliff Kapono, Kahi Pacarro, Jack Johnson, and John John Florence, all of whom supported the passing of Bill 40. The anti-plastics legislature eliminates the use of styrofoam containers, straws, plastic bags, utensils, and other plastics from food vendors in Hawai`i beginning in 2022.

Salty Crew’s “Sink or Swim” Available Online Now “When your feet no longer touch the bottom, will you sink or will you swim?” The question is posed in the first few minutes of Salty Crew’s James Tull and Hayden Layne’s “Sink or Swim” surf film. Watch the movie in its 24-minute entirety featuring Hawai`i surfing by Matt Meola, The Hobgoods, Justin Lee, Duane Diego Mellor, Lucas Dirske, and Levi Slawson. salty-crew.com

John John Florence and Lauryn Cribb Engaged

Congratulations are in order for John Florence and girlfriend of six years, Lauryn Cribb. The pair recently got engaged so keep checking your mailbox for a ‘Save the Date.’

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The stretch of beach between Off The Wall and Pipeline are easily the most photographed surfspots in the world, garnering the nickname “Kodak Reef” back in the analog days. Despite this deluge of media coverage, instances of pure intimacy remain. Photographer Ryan “Chachi” Craig peels back the curtain on local charger Tyler Newton in a private moment of serenity at Backdoor. Photo: Ryan "Chachi" Craig