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Kelly Slater Photo: Brian Bielmann

F R E E

P A R K I N G

There are few moments in surfing more intense than the exhilarating rush of uncertainty that comes from a steep drop. Tahiti’s Matahi Drollet is no stranger to dropping in to beyond vertical waves, his fearlessly casual approach has made him a heavy wave standout, especially at his homebreak of Teahupoo. Drollet surfs gnarly waves with a level of confidence and comfort which only comes from putting yourself in extreme positions time and again; making the uncomfortable, comfortable. Here's Drollet at Rockpiles, one of the most unpredictable waves on the North Shore, 100% commitment in the face of uncertainty.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

O F

C O N T E N T S

Brian Bielmann

T A B L E

04

Free Parking

08

Editor’s Note

12

Cover Story

14

Environment

22

Cliff Kapono

28 46

Aperture

News & Events 54

Surf Art

58

In Memoriam

60

Stuff We Like

62

Industry Notes 66

Last Look

AVA I L A B L E AT D E J A V U S H O P S

TO R R E Y M E I ST E R | T H E H Y P E R F R E A Kâ„¢ A I N A @ O N E I L L U S A | U S .O N E I L L .CO M | P H OTO G R A P H Y: G R A N T E L L I S

E D I T O R ' S

N O T E

Forever Blue

Christa Funk

By Andrew Oliver

When it comes to issues of grand importance - like the state of the environment - the enormity of the problem can easily overwhelm us into helplessness. “How can I, just one person on this planet, have any effect on something as complex as climate change?�

But, as the sudden reality of life under a global pandemic sets in, one thing has been made abundantly clear; for better or worse the citizens of this world are inextricably linked. And, as easily as we can become divided on things, it has been reassuring to see that in the face of this particular challenge, one that confronts us all equally, individuals for the most part have been willing to make sacrifices and are conscious of the effects their actions pose. That effort is a testament to our collective power and the domino effect that is possible from the cumulative action of individuals across the globe.

This episode serves as reminder of the shared responsibilities we have to each other and our planet - our collective home. As surfers, we are acutely aware of the global systems that shape our ocean playground and its vulnerability to human interference. Global weather systems, ocean temperatures and currents, and a myriad of interrelated factors

converge to generate swells that cross the oceans and determine how they unfold on our shores. All of which have been affected, and are under continued threat, by human generated climate change.

Our affinity for the ocean makes us uniquely sensitive to the health of the environment, and this first hand experience and understanding offers us an incredible opportunity to be the agents of change that are so badly needed. In this issue we highlight positive steps, both big and small, that are being taken within our community to realize that change. As this health crisis has shown, it is the small steps taken by millions around the world that can help mitigate disaster. Our environment needs the same collective focus. As we remain vigilant in hope that medical science can quickly catch up with this new found challenge, there is no vaccine to the climate crisis.

Luckily, we already have the cure, it's us.

Take care of yourself, take care of one another, and take care of our planet. This is all we have.

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Kelly Slater Photo: Brian Bielmann

Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai‘i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am

Editorial West Coast Distribution & Sales Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 Richard Galligan (949) 702-3476

Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Andrew Oliver

East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395

Photo Director Brian Bielmann

Hawai‘i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395

Art Director John Weaver Contributing Writers Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting, Ben Marcus, Taylor Phelps, Jake Zielinski Copy Editor Mara Pyzel Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Follow us on social media @freesurfmag

Staff Shooters Brent Bielmann, Eric Baseman, Nick Bartol, Mike Latronic, Mara Pyzel, Jake Zielinski Contributing Photographers Brent Bielmann, Brian Bielmann, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Neal Miyake, Dave "Nelly" Nelson, Jean Paul Van Swae, John Hook, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Alexandra Kahn, Zak Noyle, Shannon Reporting, Sebastian Rojas, Keoki Saguibo, Tai Vandyke, John Weaver, Will Weaver

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019

stoked to be at the helm with all you guys.

In photography, and surf photography especially, there is undoubtedly a degree of luck that comes with creating a memorable photograph.

What separates the truly great photographers from the rest, is their ability to manipulate the factors which are under their control and put themselves in a position where luck is most likely to strike. FreeSurf Magazine’s newly appointed Photo Editor Brian Bielmann, who captured this month's cover image, is one of those greats. Bielmann’s ability to assess the conditions of a given day, visualize the potential images, and the technical mastery to create photographs that expresses the essence of the respective scene, places him in a exalted club of surf-shooters.

Case-in-point, this month’s incredible cover shot of Kelly Slater from underwater at Teahupoo, Tahiti, a remarkable alignment of some of surfing’s greatest elements; the 11-time world champion, the majesty of Teahupoo from below the surface, and the visual alchemy

of Brian Bielmann. We spoke with Brian to get this month’s cover story.

Aloha Brian, congratulations on the cover! What an amazing photo, can you talk about that session and how this moment came to be?

That photo was shot on a lay day during the contest in Tahiti last year. And, it's funny because we had a few really big days right before the event and then it dropped down to about six feet and I shot every single day underwater. At that point I had so many great shots from the big day, I didn't even care about shooting above the surface. I remember seeing Kelly Slater paddle out and thinking to myself,

I've never had a really good underwater shot of Kelly. And it ended up being my favorite shot of the whole day. And as we see now, it's ended up on the cover of Freesurf! So that's pretty awesome.

Also, congratulations on your new role as Photo Editor here at FreeSurf, we are all really excited to have you on board.

I've always thought it'd be super fun to work in a magazine and help with all the layouts and all that kind of stuff. And I’ve always thought a photo editor job would be pretty cool, but I never wanted to move to California to do it.

So the fact that it's only a mile away from my house and the fact that I still have time to be out shooting and work on my own projects, it's really a great situation for me and I'm super

Well the timing really worked out perfectly, as we were having a bit of a challenge finding a cover shot for this issue. Then you shared your underwater work with us, and, instantly we knew it was a perfect fit for our environment issue. I know you’ve been doing this for a long time, how did your passion for underwater surf photography get started?

I started shooting underwater in Tahiti when I went there 20 years ago because the water was so beautiful and clear.

So I've done a lot of it over the years. Of course there's quite a few people doing it and doing it really well.

Seeing more people doing it and their original ideas just motivates me to do this type of photography even more, and so I just love it honestly.

If I didn't have to shoot anything else but underwater and I could make a living just off that, that's what I would do.

And, with the environmental focus for this issue, what better way to represent the very best of what we are all hoping to preserve.

I think that's why this cover shot worked so well with this issue. Tahiti is so beautiful and pristine we wish everything was as beautiful as it is there. It represents what we should be using as our benchmark, how things should be and how we should keep the environment clean, blue, and clear. Tahiti is the epitome of absolute nature at its most beautiful, and that's what we should be striving for.

J Weaver E N V I R O N M E N T

FOREVER BLUE

By Mara Pyzel

The realities of climate change and projections for our planet can be terrifying. But know this: you are not alone in feeling overwhelmed when inundated by this scary science. So Freesurf decided it was time to spread some good news, highlighting some steps (large and small) in the right direction. These inspiring surfers and ocean-minded projects remind us that small changes in yourself and your community can make a big difference in the scope of the world.

Refuse a bag. Say 'no’ to straws. Recycle. Buy used. Compost.

Carpool. So basic. But these simple and easy, super-basic actions are statement-making. Why? Because collectively they can change the world. Nope, that’s not an exaggeration. The choices we make impact our environment. As caretakers of this place, it is our responsibility to continually make good, earth-friendly decisions - no matter how small.

Together they generate an undeniably powerful impact on Planet Earth.

Freesurf Magazine caught up with a few good humans from the surf community. These watermen and women are committed to making small changes in their own lives in an effort to positively impact the health of our oceans, land, and air. Check out what they had to say:

LUKE TEMA ®

Hawaii’s Biggest and Best Selection of Surf Gear Photos: gOnzo/Latronic/Manulele/APotts

Hiper Model by Kerry Tokoro: 5’5” X 17.25” X 2.17 HIC Surfboards Available at:

OAHU: Ala Moana Center 808-973-6780, Kailua 808-266-6730, Haleiwa 808-637-0991. MAUI: Lahaina Cannery 808-667-6111.

HAWAII ISLAND: Prince Kuhio Plaza 808-959-0442.

www.hicsurf.com

Dane Gudauskas

KAI / OCEAN

Pro Surfer

Ma’alaea Bay Oyster Water Filtration Project

Freesurfer extraordinaire and one of San Clemente’s Positive Vibe Warrior brotherly trio; Dane Gudauskas is a man of the world. We touched base with him midway through a West Africa surf mission. The wandering pro opened up about how he goes green even while on the go.

By Andrew Oliver

The Small Steps Add Up Today, I filled up my Hydro Flask full of water. I know it doesn't sound like some massive contribution, but I get excited to think about the long term contribution that will have, not using single-use plastic water bottles. I love my Hydroflask for that reason.

Maui’s Ma’alaea Bay, home to arguably the “world’s fastest wave,” has a long and fraught relationship with man. Over the years, repeated plans to expand the breakwall and harbor, essentially destroying the wave, have been proposed and defeated by the widespread community opposition. Additionally, decades of sediment run-off, exacerbated by upslope development, have significantly eroded water quality in the bay. But better days may soon be on the horizon, as a comprehensive plan to improve water quality in the bay is being put into action including using live oysters to clean the bay.

The pilot project was launched by the Maui Nui Marine Resource Council. “Oysters are nature’s most efficient water filters; they eat by pumping large volumes of water through their bodies and in the process, they capture sediment and pollutants from the water column,” says Amy Hodges, Programs Manager at Maui Nui Marine Resource Council.

“Hawai‘i’s nearshore ocean waters are not supposed to have too much phytoplankton, but fertilizers and wastewater nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium cause algae blooms. Oysters feed on microalgae, which ultimately makes the water clearer and better for corals. Estimates are that a single oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of ocean water in a day depending on conditions.”

Learn more at www.mauireefs.org.

Latronic

Working in tandem with the water-filtering oysters, the two-part plan will also identify and minimize run-off upstream to stop water contaminants at their source. With Ma'alaea being one of the most fickle waves in the world, as the narrow channel between Kaho'olawe and Maui’s southern tip restricts it to breaking from only the most specific of swell direction, the next time the wave comes alive you could be looking at blue barrels instead of chocolate brown.

Be Inspired I feel like the ocean really teaches you about respecting nature as a greater energy force. If you never become vulnerable to our earth's energies, like riding waves or even floating along in a riptide, you may never grow to understand its significance and create a long lasting relationship and respect for it.

I think the most positive impact has come from passionate people really inspiring others to see how everyone's old habits of consumption or diet could be endangering the future of the planet. That's how I have made the most significant changes to how I operate in my life, by taking it upon myself to learn new habits, that undoubtedly if more and more people become inspired to adopt, will have a positive impact on our environment.

Plant-It for the Planet Grow a garden in the backyard, or on the back porch or balcony.

Anywhere you can plant something that fruits or flowers and grows, just go for it!

IT’S 5:00 ANYWHERE

WITH THE FANNING LOW BOTTLE OPENER SANDAL

'ANO KANAKA / HUMANKIND

Leah Dawson

The Aloha State’s Sunscreen Ban

Freesurfer & Environmentalist

By Mara Pyzel

As part of the squad at Community Compost Movement, Ms. Dawson is wellversed in all things eco. The nonprofit processes the food waste from the Triple Crown as part of the WSL’s sustainability initiative.

Leah just returned from DC as part of the Surfrider Foundation’s #SurfriderHillDay during which pro athletes and activists voiced their concerns about climate change and environmental policy to concerned senators.

Here in the Aloha State, colorful rainbows grace the sky with their presence on a near-daily basis. But look down as you enter the water from a highly-trafficked shoreline like Waikiki and that rainbow glaring up at you is anything but beautiful. These ocean water slicks are partially caused by the oily run-off from suntan accelerators and sunscreens. The multicolored film is literally and figuratively just the surface of a problem that runs much deeper: several chemicals commonly found in sunscreen ingredients are contributing factors in the slaughter of Hawai'i’s corals. The offending chemicals include oxybenzone and octinoxate.

The chemicals have been linked to an increase in the coral’s susceptibility to bleaching, tantamount to the death of this maritime plant-like animal.

The good news? Voters in Hawai'i overwhelmingly decided they wouldn’t stand for this. In 2018, a measure was passed ensuring all sunscreens sold in the state be “reef friendly”. In other words, the sunscreen’s ingredient list must be free of the toxic chemicals. The ban takes full effect January 1, 2021, but people have already begun making the switch. It is now easier than ever to buy “reef friendly” sun protection, made without oxybenzone and octinoxate. (Just double-check the ingredients list before you buy as “reef friendly” is not an FDA or CDC regulated designation.)

Say Good-Bye to Plastics As a lover of the ocean, one cannot turn a blind eye to the obvious destruction of plastic abuse. It’s now on every coastline around the world. So the more we choose to avoid plastic in our purchases, the better for our oceans and marine life. Our most powerful actions we can take are the ways in which we vote with our money.

The ban’s charismatic megafauna was coral. But in actuality, it has reached beyond those colorful corals. It got people talking, raising awareness amongst the general population.

Surfers and beachgoers are more connected to the effects their choices have on the health of Hawai'i’s marine life. This heightened sense of awareness will not only protect the reef from those chemicals now but has generated a ripple effect of understanding surrounding our choices as consumers and the impact we have on the environment going forward.

Keoki

The Hidden Costs Question first if you really need to buy something. Try to source it second-hand whenever possible.

Conscious consumerism has the most positive effect on our environment because individuals are making choices daily that either protect or harm the environment. On a larger scale, voting for environmentally focused candidates is imperative moving forward.

Think Globally, Act Accordingly Plan your days and weeks out to limit how much driving you have to do. If you’re going to travel, offset your emissions by supporting efforts like @seatrees who is planting mangroves and trees in tropical areas to sequester carbon.

Start composting! Check out @ communitycompostmovement.

Contrary to popular practice, food waste does NOT belong in the trash! Eat plant-based, even if it’s a couple of days a week.

Kohl Christensen

'AINA / LAND

Big Wave Surfer

Sunset Beach’s Dune Restoration Project

Well-known for chasing down big waves across the globe, Christensen is locally known for his off-the-grid lifestyle. From harnessing solar power and harvesting his own food, this eco-conscious family man is setting an earth-friendly example for the next generation.

By Mara Pyzel

While checking the surf during the last big swell, you may have noticed the signs along the bike path at Sunset Beach. One of surfing's most iconic breaks, the sand at this right-hander has been suffering in past years, with storm after storm beating down on its exposed shores. Past weather cycles have seen this plenty of times before: the sand gets sucked out, narrowing the stretch of beach between the ocean and the road. But the dramatic and unpredictable weather of recent years has decimated this stretch of coastline, sucking out sand that has yet to get replaced.

At one point the erosion was so dramatic that the City and County of Honolulu was forced to reroute the bike trail, uproot palms, and eliminate most of the ocean-side parking to prevent it all from sliding into the sea. Yet busloads of oblivious tourists, amped surfers, and tanning beauties continued to trample down what remained of the sloping dune. Combo’ing the situation are dramatically rising sea levels. A result of melting glaciers and ice sheets, the fast-rising ocean waters also played a part in the shape shifting seen at Sunset Beach.

Change Starts With You What powers your refrigerator?

Where does the energy that makes that light turn on come from?

Most people don't realize that the majority of our power comes from oil. How does that oil get here?

It comes on ships. What happens if there was an accident and that oil spills? Be part of reducing that risk by installing solar panels and harvest energy from the sun. It's an industry I've been involved in daily since 2006.

Responding to the need to save Sunset Beach from permanently disappearing, community members stepped up. Local nonprofit North Shore Community Land Trust hui’d up, implementing a long-game plan to save the sand and maintain the integrity of this iconic O'ahu beach. Headed by T&C’s Adam Borello, the surferled organization and their dedicated volunteer group spend every other Saturday planting native naupaka and other sand-happy plants whose roots will hold this precious beach together. The group has also constructed fences ensuring beach access in designated places, preventing unwarranted trampling and preventing further erosion. Now a few years into the project, they have seen success in maintaining beach sand and plants, preserving the beach at this world-renowned surf spot.

Be the Change As surfers, we are blessed to have a constant connection to the ocean, our playground. We should be aware of anything that could adversely jeopardize that relationship. A simple start would be to avoid ‘single use plastics' and encourage your peers to do the same. When something breaks, fix it. Don't be afraid to wear handme-downs - they're cool. Lead by example and be a steward of aloha everywhere you go.

Keoki

Learn more about helping out with this project by visiting northshoreland.org.

The Time is Now We are destroying our planet.

There are people that have recognized this and are taking serious action to curb the present trajectory. Learn from them and remind yourself daily that you can be one of these people. Watch documentaries, listen to podcasts, join organizations, and volunteer.

Surround yourself with like-minded people. Educate yourself and do something! We only have one Planet Earth. Do everything you can to make sure our future generations get to enjoy it the way we did.

Cliff Kapono The Surfing Scientist Saving the Reef

By Mara Pyzel

Cliff Kapono Photo: Evan Schell

t’s the stuff of legend: the single-celled organisms that form the foundation of our reefs are a foundational piece in the traditional Hawaiian origin story. “In Hawaiian culture, the coral is one of the first things to be created when we look at the kumulipo, the creation story,” notes marine scientist and professional surfer Cliff Kapono. “From the evolution of the coral comes the human.

When you keep going down [the line of creation] you see that from the coral comes the starfish and from the starfish comes the crab and from the crab comes the fish… all the way. Then the last thing to be made is the man.” Dr. Kapono’s own ever-evolving chain of identities significantly impacts his work. The ambassador of surf, ocean science, and aloha draws inspiration from these intersecting facets, generating his newest environmental project studying the coral reef, conveniently located just outside his homebreak.

“The coral reef that I’m studying here in Hilo is the surf spot that I grew up surfing, so that’s how it kind of ties in,” says Kapono who, in October, kicked off a study of the environmental factors that hindering the reef outside Honoli'i Bay. “This place - Honoli'i it’s a very special wave; it’s the most popular wave in town. A lot of people learn to surf there; a lot of people still continue to surf there; so it’s a really community-family spot.”

Despite the wave’s popularity, Honoli’i’s reef is a thing of a mystery to much of the community. “Not a lot of people know that there's a healthy reef out there, just outside the point and where the waves are breaking.

You’re kind of surfing over these really brilliant and diverse reefs.” Swimming around this coral habitat, electric blues, brilliant purples, and a rainbow of eye-catching hues stand out against a backdrop of deep blue.

Beyond the eye-pleasing aesthetic, the reef provides food and shelter for much of the local marine life and is an integral part of a balanced ecosystem. Kapono’s goal? Identify the impact changing sedimentation levels - a result of river mouth runoff, erosion, and heavy rains - have on these endemic corals.

It’s a race against time as Kapono works to conserve these rare and precious organisms from the ruins of brown water runoff.

“There’re corals out there that are only found in Hawai'i - nowhere else in the world. So it’s kind of a special little place,” notes Kapono.

Beyond the simple beauty of its underwater garden, having Honoli'i as a petri dish

comes with a few perks: The researcher is often spotted at the break “collecting samples” by surfboard. (Seriously.) “It’s a really beautiful zone and the surf gets good so it’s a really fun project to do,” he says.

“For me, it just creates a much more fulfilling experience. Even when I’m not riding a wave, just kind of being there, on top of the water [is satisfying]. And when I catch the wave, it’s like a bonus! It’s kind of like ‘I’m scoring!’” he Ph.D is no fair-weather scientist, though. Head to Honoli'i on a blown-out, stormy day, the kind of day best spent at home watching surf clips on repeat, and chances are you’ll spot Kapono geared-up and out there, collecting muddy, murky samples. Later, he’ll take them to the lab to check for sedimentation and other runoff factors. But the windward side’s notorious rain is all a part of the project: “That’s what’s interesting with Honoli'i. As seasons change, heavy rain causes sedimentation from land run-off so the wave will be really like blue here one day and if it rains a lot it will be super dark brown, kind of like what happens at Waimea once or twice a year, but this happens in Hilo multiple times throughout the year,” explains Kapono. Back at UH Hilo’s John Burns MEGA Lab, Kapono studies and charts his growing data collection.

K A P O N O

Rock

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“This place - Honoli'i - it’s a very special wave; it’s the most popular wave in town. A lot of people learn to surf there; a lot of people still continue to surf there; so it’s a really community-family spot.

Keoki

This is Kapono's daily grind for the next two years as he carefully compiles and scrutinizes temperature, rainfall, and brown-water data.

Additionally, through his repeated visits, Kapono will be mapping the reef, assembling a 3D-Google Map of the corals. These modules provide intricate detail of the reef unseen by the naked eye. Because each microchange can be of major consequence when it comes to corals, it is crucial that Kapono continues to chart over time,

K A P O N O

identifying shifts and making projections based on those changes.

With 70-90% projected death rate for corals, the odds are stacked against him. But with a vested interest in protecting his homebreak, the researcher, surfer, and environmentalist navigates his way through hobby and study.

Latronic

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waters seeing up to 50% of their coral reefs dying off, his work is more pertinent than ever before. He encourages others to keep a daily journal just as he does. “Recording and being able to have a safe space for observation, I think, is very valuable to society today.

We’re talking about climate change; we’re talking about everything moving and skipping baselines, but we don’t really have a very strong documentation of what’s going on now over a long time. So,” he urges, “as individuals, just record. Help us remember exactly what was going on with the whole environment.”

His research is a reflection of more than just his scientific side. Kapono sees the fusion between the Hawaiian tradition of surfing and his modern science practices. “There is a cultural-scientific connection between the human and the coral, outside of just using corals reefs to create waves. As the energy moves across the sea it hits the reef and it creates the waves we ride, and in a sense, it’s more cultural” he says, recognizing the link between his present-day science project and his passion for the ancient sport. “I go to Honoli'i in the morning and I surf and I have this appreciation for everything that is encompassing the experience… I’m out there floating in between sets and I’m just thinking about all the different corals that are underneath and all the different fish, even the sharks that are under there.”

nderstanding the potential impact of his work, Kapono was thrilled when he got the go-ahead to embark on this overdue journey.

“I’ve really wanted to do this for a long time just because the reef is everything: It creates our islands; it feeds us - the fish that live on it are our food source; it creates waves; it protects the coast from erosion; it provides biodiversity to the ocean habitat and it also provides sanctuary for a lot of migrants to come and rest for the winter season. The reef is such a huge value to the planet.”

Ever humbled by his subject, Dr. Cliff Kapono recognizes the power of this legendary ocean life force: “The coral is just an amazing, amazing thing. I feel I owe a lot of what I’m doing today to the coral reef.”

Over the next two years, Kapono hopes to establish a baseline for Honoli'i’s coral community with the intent that it will be put to use for future reference, research, and, most significantly, the wisdom needed to best implement practices protecting our reefs. Kapono is working to establish a baseline for the environment crucial to a healthy progression for island corals. And with some areas in Hawai'i’s

Sources: Cnn.com & DLNR

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Magic carpet rides do exist. Josh Moniz gliding through perfection at Pipeline.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

When below becomes above, underwater redirect, Tahiti.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Aggravated assault, Filipe Toledo with a karate kick to this unsuspecting Ehukai lip.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Barron Mamiya surfs a different lineup at Pipe/Backdoor; it's further in and deeper from just about everyone else. Mamiya full speed in his own zone.

Photo: Brent Bielmann

Zeke Lau in familiar territory, Off the Wall power torque.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Billy Kemper Photo: Mike Latronic

Billy Kemper Sunset Point coping destruction.

Photo: Mike Latronic

Koa Rothman driving hands-free in the Pipeline fastlane.

Photo: Brent Bielmann

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This edition's Jose Cuervo Tradicional "Shot of the month," Kalani Rivero with a Rocky Point fin-drift. Photo: Oliver

S U R V I V I N G

G I A N T S

Jaws Expert Paige Alms A Big Wave Series by Shannon Reporting Photos: Ryan "Chachi" Craig

Paige Alms, freesurfing Pe'ahi. Photo: Ryan "Chachi" Craig

Holding two world titles and three big wave event victories thanks to her dominance at the Pe'ahi Challenge, Maui local Paige Alms has set the bar for women in giant surf. Fitness training and rigorous gym time are just two factors that set her apart from the rest. Combine that hard work with her positive attitude and service to her community, and it’s no wonder why girls everywhere are looking up to Paige for mentorship. She undoubtedly would excel at any sport she set her eyes on with Olympic caliber due to her self-motivated determination; surfing just happened to win her heart. And for that, the beautiful island of Maui celebrates breeding all-star athletes like herself. Her tall stature at nearly 6-feet tall doesn’t hurt either for some last minute strokes right when it counts. Good luck winning a paddle-battle against this strong swimmer.

Paige Alms’ domination in the Jaws arena earned her an ESPY nomination for Best Female Action Sports Athlete - and this journalist wouldn’t mind seeing her nominated in the general Top Athlete category. Aside from the resume of accolades, Alms uses her platform to highlight environmental efforts by promoting eco-conscious brands such as Patagonia and Sanuk. She even created the #trashyselfie

campaign against single-use plastics “encouraging environmental consciousness and sharing small-everyday-actions that help male the Earth a little cleaner and healthier one selfie at a time.”

She isn’t scared to share her honest opinion (which may be my favorite thing about her) and actively participates in countless interviews about women’s empowerment and the need for equal pay in surfing. The New York Times caught on, sharing the story of surfing’s female movement with the world at large ushering a domino effect in mainstream media. As we welcome in 2020, the next generation of female wave riders will be greeted with equal prize purses and more opportunities to achieve their dreams, following in her foot-steps as professional athletes.

Columnist Ryan Holiday said it best: “the person who clears the path ultimately controls its direction, just as the canvas shapes the painting.”

For our latest installment of “Surviving Giants”, we caught up with the champ for some insight into her training routine, how to survive a two-wave hold down, and why she’s excited to watch the younger girls enter the lineup and shake things up a bit.

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Paige Alms

" The sky is the limit and it is there for the taking!

The new crop of female chargers coming up now will for sure be better than all of us. I’m pretty excited about the future for all of the women. "

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Morning routine: It depends on where I am and what the waves are doing… but on a good day at home. I’m usually up with a coffee, sitting on my deck in the sun with my man and our dog, and getting ready to head down to the beach for a surf, followed by some yummy grinds.

and how my body is feeling. I feel very fortunate to have an amazing team and the crew at Deep Relief Peak Performance who keep me in the best shape possible, and also help put my body back together after injury.

How has water safety, like inflation vests and jet skis, progressed the sport?

I think people are pushing it way harder than before, taking off on waves that they may not have years ago. It has allowed the best surfers in the world to truly push themselves to the limit. Having floatation, safety equipment, jet skis, and proper training techniques has helped save countless lives.

What makes Jaws the “Superbowl of Surfing”?

The wave itself is just pure magic for spectators and when viewed from up on the cliff it’s like being in a stadium watching perfect, giant waves.

How do you survive a long hold-down?

Training and preparation: knowing what your body is capable of helps to give you the confidence and calmness when being held down for a very long time, or during an extremely violent short hold down—sometimes those are worse.

What does the future hold for female big wave chargers?

The sky is the limit and it is there for the taking! The new crop of female chargers coming up now will for sure be better than all of us. I’m pretty excited about the future for all of the women. There are so many waves for them to ride, literally and figuratively.

Training techniques and tips: Depending on the time of year, I’m training out of the water for a couple hours a day, at least five days a week. Whether that be doing strength and conditioning, stability and balance work, breath-hold training, cardio, or just simple stretching and mobility, it varies depending on what the surf is doing 44

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Hawai’i’s Bettylou Sakura Johnson and Jackson Bunch Claim Maiden WSL Wins at Papara Pro Junior Tahiti

Bettylou Sakura Johnson Photo: WSL / Abraham

Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) and Jackson Bunch (HAW) claimed the World Surf League (WSL) Papara Pro Junior Tahiti, in two foot, occasional three, clean conditions. A marathon display of competition ensued as competitors scorched their way through finals day which tested their endurance and will to succeed. But in the end Oahu, Hawai'i’s, Johnson and Maui, Hawai'i’s, Bunch emerged victorious over a heavilycontested event field that featured some of the region’s premiere talents from the Pacific and South Pacific Islands.

A critical Final unfolded between the region’s standouts with Johnson, 2019 event runnerup Savanna Stone (HAW), Luana Silva (HAW) and Nora Liotta(HAW), who earned

fourth, third and second place, respectively. This marked backto-back Final appearances for the 14-year-old after her Sunset Pro Junior fourth-place finish and Johnson now jumps to first on the Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui Pro Junior rankings.

Johnson. “It’s super fun to come here for the first time it was just amazing. I just tried to get my waves in and finish strong but all three of them are really good surfers and to be in the lineup with them is a pleasure. This wave is so rippable and you can

A back and forth battle ensued within the men’s Final as well, with Bunch and Tahiti’s own Kauli Vaast, two-time defending event winner, trading exchanges toward the midway point of the heat.

Vaast’s compatriot Teiva Tetahio, along with Shion Crawford (HAW), both showcased their respective forehand and backhand attacks on the running righthanders of Papara’s beach break.

“I’m so psyched and knew I needed to do well in this Pro Junior for a shot at hopefully qualifying for Worlds and to do it feels great,” said Bunch. “ I’m hoping to keep this up for the rest of the week and just keep having fun.”

do so many maneuvers. This will help my confidence so much and I’m just going to try and keep going.”

“When that horn sounded I just thought ‘I can’t believe it’, I did it and I’m just so excited,” said 46

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Mason Ho Claims Air Tahiti Rangiroa Pro 11th Edition Victory Mason Ho (HAW) emerged victorious today at the World Surf League (WSL) Air Tahiti Rangiroa Pro, a men’s Qualifying Series (QS) 1,000, for his second QS victory in pumping conditions at the pristine reef break of Rangiroa. One of Hawai'i’s most dynamic surfers went head-to-head with Maui, Hawai'i’s, Eli Hanneman in the Final and the two put on a showcase of barrel-riding performances.

The Final started off slow but quickly ramped up into a back-andforth battle as barrels pitched off the reef while Ho and Hanneman paddled against the current and exchanged rides. Ho earned a 6.83 (out of a possible 10) for his opening wave as Hanneman scored a 4.83 but eventual victor Ho rid himself of that result by Final’s end and went on to secure two excellent numbers, combining to accrue a 16.83 (out of a possible 20) heat total for brilliant surfing.

A big exchange witnessed Hanneman get covered by Rangiroa’s blue curtain and emerge after multiple sections for a near-excellent 7.70 midway through the heat. Ho answered right back with an 8.00 for his own barrelexcellence to control the Final before heading into the dying minutes where he posted another 8.83 -- the heat-best -- to claim his career-second QS victory.

“I’m so stoked, I did not expect winning any QS events this year,” said Ho. “I mean it’s always the plan, it’s been a plan for life, but to actually do it is such a cool feeling and just to travel to a special place like Tahiti and get a result, let alone win, has always been a dream of mine.”

Mason Ho Photo: WSL / Abraham

"Eli is such a good competitor," added Ho. "When I was his age, I wasn’t nearly that good, but I remember always learning stuff. Now that I’m not so young I don’t have to hold all my knowledge. It’s cool when you can learn it and pass it on but still do good.”

Ho looked unstoppable after yesterday’s perfect 10-point ride carried momentum into his first QS finals day since 2017. The 31-year-old from Oahu’s North Shore had an impressive road to victory, first by overcoming an in-form Ocean Macedo (HAW) in the Quarterfinals after the young Maui, Hawai'i, competitor jumped into the lead with an 8.00. Ho was able to recover and finish strong heading into a massive Semifinal bout with Tahitian O’Neill Massin that witnessed more seesaw battles after Massin started with a near-perfect 9.00. But, Ho’s ability to overcome adversity showed once more with a jaw-dropping 9.50 to take out Massin and seal his careerfourth QS Final.

Hanneman’s rhythm with the ocean was undeniable throughout the morning after eliminating Tahitian Heifara Tahutini Jr. in a wave-forwave Quarterfinal battle before a stout Semifinal against another Tahitian standout, Tereva David. “I had a lot of fun heats and obviously second isn’t first place but I had fun so that’s all that matters,” said Hanneman. “My goal is obviously to make the CT, but I’m just getting started on some events now, so I’m just going to keep moving forward and hopefully keep making heats.”

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Kelis Kaleopa'a Claims Historic Victory at Noosa Longboard Open presented by Thomas Surfboards all surf together, all day every day and this week was no different.

We’ve all had so much fun.”

Almost 20 years after his last appearance at the Noosa Festival, and 16 years since his last ASP / WSL event win, Joel Tudor (USA) has taken another major victory, at the ripe age of 43. A two-time World Longboard Champion (‘98 and ‘04), Tudor is an icon of surfing and longboarding in particular, winning his first professional event at 15. He is now running his own logging invitational events, the ‘Vans Duct Tape Series’ globally, celebrating traditional longboarding. Tudor made a trip to Australia to surf with his sons on the points of Noosa and check out the NoosaFestival and was given a wildcard into the event, which he then went onto win. Tudor now finds himself sitting in No. 1 on the World Longboard Rankings and with no choice but to go for his third World Longboard Title.

Kelis Kaleopa'a winning her heat on Day 4 of the 2020 Noosa Longboard Open (Photo by Thomas Bennett/WSL via Getty Images)

NOOSA HEADS, QLD/AUS (Tuesday, February 25, 2020) - Hawaiian youngster Kelis Kaleopa'a (HAW) and surfing icon Joel Tudor (USA) have seized historical victories at the Noosa Longboard Open, presented

by Thomas Surfboards, the opening event of the 2020 World Surf League (WSL) Longboard Tour (LT). On what was the best day of conditions for the entire event, the pair overcame a field of reigning event winner’s and

former world champions, to each take monumental wins in clean two-foot surf on Noosa Main Beach.

15-year old Kelis Kaleopa'a (HAW) travelled to the Noosa Longboard Open 12 months

ago to compete in her first-ever WSL event. One year later and Kaleopa'a is the Longboard Tour Rankings Leader and in the box seat to claim her maiden World Title. After an impressive performance all week at Main Beach, posting some of the highest wave and heat totals of the event, Kaleopa'a eventually met her good friend Sophia Culhane (HAW) in the Final.

Culhane looked solid from the start but couldn’t overcome a rampaging Kaleopaa, whose poise on the nose and ability to read waves, saw her take the win with a two-wave total of 12.26 (out of a possible 20).

Kaleopa'a has shown that she is at the forefront of a huge push coming from Hawai'i on the WSL Longboard Tour.

“I think the last time I won this event was 20 years ago and most of the competitors here this week weren’t even born,” Tudor said.

“Then I won my last ASP event 16 years ago so it’s been a long time since I’ve been here. I didn’t really plan on competing in this event, then I got the wildcard and kept making heats and found a rhythm, it wasn’t until the semifinals though that I knew that I could win. It was cool to come up against Kevin (Skvarna), he is one of the best guys at the Duct Tape events so it was rad to share

“I’m so happy right now I don’t really know how else to explain it,” Kaleopa'a said. “Sophia is one of my best friends from home and we surf together every day so this is such a dream. I cried when she made it into the semifinals because I was so happy for her. It’s been amazing here in Noosa to have all of the crew from Hawai'i and Waikiki supporting each other. All of the Hawaiian’s were surfing so well which was awesome to see. We 50

a heat with him. The best part of this win is that my kids are here.

They’ve seen the trophies and heard the stories but now they’ve seen their dad win, something which is really cool. I suppose I’m going to have to go for my third world title now, which will be epic.”

A solid member of the huge pool of talent coming out of Hawai'i on the WSL Longboard Tour is 14-year-old Sophia Culhane (HAW) who came to Noosa this year to compete in her first-ever WSL event. Hoping to enjoy some fun with friends and gain some experience surfing heats with the world’s best, Culhane was the most surprised when she earned her spot in the Final, with good friend Kelis Kaleopaa.

Although she finished short of the event win, the new world number two leaves Noosa as a leader of the huge pack of surfing talent, representing Hawai'i on the 2020 WSL Longboard Tour.

“I can’t believe I’m number two in the world at the moment,” Culhane said. “That's not what I was expecting this week. I couldn’t have done it without all of the support of my Waikiki family who has been cheering me on from the beach all week.

Surfing a final with Kelis was so amazing. She is such an amazing surfer and I’m so happy that she got the win. She deserves it so much. I can’t wait for the year ahead -- I’m so stoked.”

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Luana Silva in the Mothernest Great Lakes Pro. Photo: WSL / Smith

North Shore’s Luana Silva takes out the 2020 Mothernest Great Lakes Pro, at Boomerang Beach, Great Lakes, AUS, a World Surf League (WSL) Qualifying Series (QS) 1000 event.

Luana Silva (HAW) capped off five days of impeccable heat surfing, taking out the women’s division. The 15-year-old Hawaiian native employed a mature heat strategy in the final, remaining patient in the heat and waiting for the rare, clean faces on offer. Silva surfed beyond her years in the final performing a barrage of giant snaps that allowed her to gain the edge over the mature approach of fellow finalist and recent Carve Pro champion Sarah Baum (ZAF). The victory is Silva’s second win from as many trips to Australia as she claimed the 2019 Phillip Island Pro back in November last year.

“I feel so good right now. I almost have no words. I just love Australia,” said Silva. “I feel so blessed to have won two titles here and have had such great conditions while I’ve been here. This win is pretty special as my Mum and a few friends were here to watch it in person.

I knew Sarah was going to be tough to beat with her winning the last QS event and she posted high scores all event, so I knew I’d have to be on my game to beat her.”

Luana Silva Photo: WSL / Smith

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The Bishop Museum Celebrates Hawai'i’s Sport Mai Kinohi Mai: Surfing in Hawai'i Story and photos by Mara Pyzel

are added, then taken away. Same with skegs. Fins make their debut on balsa with Tom Blake, and finally post-World War II with materials abundantly available, foam boards quickly become the norm and wood gets scrapped. Each shape is a work of art and tells the story of the sport’s timeline.

When Clyde Aikau tells you to meet him in a Chinese graveyard under the cover of night, you don’t ask questions - you just do it. That was how the Bishop Museum’s Exhibit Designer Michael Wilson came into possession of the eighth and final board in the featured Mai Kinohi Mai “From the Beginning” collection. The addition of Eddie Aikau’s gun rounded out the featured collection, a quiver of hand-selected surfboards pinpointing significant moments in surfing’s history. Aikau’s Waimea gun was one of these historically significant watercrafts.

Alongside Eddie’s are boards from icons like famed Makaha ripper Rell Sunn, Duke’s original wooden Waikiki log, first-ever surf Olympian Carissa Moore’s Mayhem shortboard, and the Waimea gun ridden by the youngest winner of the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, John John Florence. These, and boards from Kelia Moniz, Margo Oberg, and Derek Ho are a small portion of a larger quiver on display - a chronology of board development including he’e nalu paipos, olos, and alaias. The progression is obvious as visitors circle the room.

Wooden boards get longer, thicker, and hollower. John Kelly takes an ax to a board making the tail narrower. Skegs and drainage plugs

The artifacts don’t stand alone; they are fortified by tales of kings and queens, love affairs and beach boys, as the narrative weaves its way from board to board throughout the decades. Listen to a Native Hawaiian chant, essentially the precursor to a surf report, sharing a seasonal wave report for O'ahu’s breaks. (In the serenity of Waikiki / Wonderful is the surf). An alaia belonging to Queen Liliuokalani has a footprint-shaped watermark, lending credence to the argument that she was a goofy foot. Watch footage of wooden boards surfing Canoes in 1906 as shot by the Thomas Edison Company and glimpse photos from surf photographer Clarence Maki circa 1940s, ‘50s and ‘60s. Maki’s passion for surf photography drove him to develop the frames overnight and give them away for free to his subjects the next day. Endearing insights and side-stories are aplenty in this exhibit’s

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A step up from the hushed whispers and no-touch policy associated with typical museum etiquette, Mai Kinohi Mai is a show appealing to all the senses. Feel your heart begin to race as you ride a replica of Duke’s famous board and peer up at a cresting 30-foot wave, made to scale. If a day spent wandering through the museum has unearthed the surf FOMO within you, hop on a board ride a virtual wave in the VR wave simulator. You’ll feel like you're at the wave ranch, (sans the brain-devouring parasite). Hum along to a playlist of decades of Hawai'i’s best surf songs spanning the genres, from chants to do-wop. Cast a virtual vote selecting your first-choice, hands-down, go-to, favorite-of-all-time break and see an interactive map of all voted spots. (Don’t worry, the curator and exhibit designer narrowed down the over 400 spots to just 100, omitting secret spots, dangerous breaks, and otherwise unshareable gems.)

Cruise under the palm-roofed replica of the beachboy shack and watch interviews with faces you know from O'ahu’s waters including aunties and uncles and pros like Zeke Lau, Andrea Moller, Patrick Gauduaskas, Paige Alms, and Michael Ho, to name a few.

The collection spills out onto the museum’s lawn where you can ride the Plastic Free Wave, built by Ethan Estess and featured at the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing’s 2018 Pipeline Masters. The wave’s materials were all collected by volunteers with Sustainable Coastline Hawai'i at beach clean-ups around the island. Ghost nets and plastics form a stationary tube aimed at thinking about the future of the sport in terms of ocean health. Drop in on Tuesdays, Thursdays, or Saturdays and next to the Plastic Free Wave you take lend a hand to Tom “Pohaku” Stone who is hand shaping a koa wood alaia. This is his second board made at the museum - he and granddaughter, pro surfer Savanna Stone worked on another historical shape, that one from ulu wood. Spanning the generations, this traditional board practitioner is resurrecting the classics of wooden board riding.

Whether you are a vetted surfer or a die-hard landlubber, the familiar faces, legendary names, and enthralling insights that make up surfing’s history are beautifully presented at Mai Kionhi Mai. Excellently crafted and designed, with tales even the most versed in surf trivia will learn something new about surfing, the sport of kings.

Stop by the exhibit at the Bishop Museum in Honolulu now - May 3.

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In Memoriam Cino Magallanes

The Freesurf Mag 'ohana is saddened by the recent passing of two legends. Shaper Cino Magallanes passed away unexpectedly February 17th. There was an outpouring of support for his family including pro surfer Jason Magallenes and the voice of the contests, Rocky Canon. Freddy P.’s father Fred Patacchia Senior passed away February 16th. Our hearts go out to these families in their time of loss.

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The Big Island Ocean Experience with Kona Boys If it is an outer island adventure you seek, look no further than with the crew at Kona Boys. Their SUP inventory is unmatched and has used and new options for whatever price range you are looking to buy in. They offer a ton of exciting shapes to choose from and have curated a quiver from C4 Waterman, Jimmy Lewis, Pearson Arrow, Al Merrick, Infinity, 7S, Surftech, Walden, Jerry Lopez, Laird, South Point, and NSP. These friendly watermen and women will hook you up with any gear you need to have an exciting day in the waters off Hawai'i island. From SUP gears to kayaks, surf boards, lessons, gear and more, these guys will help get you set! Stop in to shop or just talk story at their location in Kealakekua. www.konaboys.com

Local Motion’s Gimme Shelter Bucket Hat Amp up your sun protection game with Local Motion’s bucket hat. Available in back or gray, this mosture wicking lightweight hat provides all-around sun protection. Strategically equpiied with a chinstrap, this stylish design is wind resistant - no more embarrassing chases down the beach with every gust!

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Get Outta Town with World Surfaris The summer months are fast approaching and we are already jonesing for surf. Rather than feleing that all-too-real wave FOMO that accompanies summer oin the North Shore or crowded waves on the Sotuh Shore, plan ahead! Book a a surf trip though World Surfaris. They take the pain out of planning your off-island surf adventure and make traveling to destinations like Indo, the Maldives, South Africa, the South Pacific, El Salvador, and more super easy. Visit worldsurfaris. com to book your next surf trip. Just throw a few go-to sticks and some trunks into a board bag, and grab your passport.

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IN D USTRY N O TES

WAIKIKI BOARD RACKS BURN DOWN You know the ones… stacked with colorful longboards and tandem boards. The racks, located near the Waikiki Police Station and the Moana Surfrider Hotel went up in flames late in the evening on February 27th.

Surrounding streets were closed and the hotel was evacuated as firefighters worked to extinguish the blaze.

SURFERS LOBBY IN DC FOR ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION The Surfrider Foundation and pros Greg Long, Leah Dawson, Cliff Kapono, and 150 community members and activists gathered in DC in the hopes of lobbying representatives to make legislative change.

They collectively attended 130 meetings with government members to address concerns about our changing climate. The Surfrider Foundation has long advocated legislative change as a means of achieving effective environmental protections. Dawson reflected on meeting with the Senate Democrats’ Climate Committee saying, “Two words I heard as calls to action from my day on The Hill yesterday was ‘Go vote.’”

OLD-SCHOOL WATERMAN KERBOX RELEASES MAKING WAVES Model. Surfer. Business Owner. Waterman. Buzzy Kerbox is now adding author to his resume. Kerbox’s celebrated the release of Making Waves with a book signing and talk story in Honolulu. A prominent fixture of Hawai'i’s surf scene from the ‘60s on, Kerbox’s work melds personal photographs, journals, and interviews as they intersect with surfing’s evolution.

A YOUNG AIKAU LEGACY LIVES ON THROUGH REEF AIKAU HO’OIKAIKA 'OHANA BEACH DAY In 2017, at just seven years old, Reef Aikau was stabbed to death by his father Gerald who subsequently took his own life. The memory of the young Aikau, of famed waterman Eddie Aikau’s extended ohana, was celebrated with a beach event at Magic Island. The Domestic Violence Action Center partnered with the Aikaus to host their first-ever Reef Aikau Ho’oikaika Ohana Beach Day on Sunday, February 23rd. The multisport event hosted a fun day of SUPing, paddleboarding, and canoe racing aimed at raising awareness around domestic violence. Proceeds from the event will continue to support an awareness campaign with DVAC.

NANCY MEOLA , mother to aerial phenom Matt and talented musician Lily Meola, continues her brave fight against lung cancer following successful bone surgery in March. “She spends her life trying to make others happy. We love her so much,” Matt Meola told us after his mom’s surgery. “Thanks to everybody for the continuous support during this battle.” Friends, family, and the extended surf community wish her all the best.

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T&C SURF GIVES FANS EXCLUSIVE ACCESS TO BODYBOARDING’S ELITE The 20th annual T&C Surf “Go Big” kicked off at Pearlridge Mauka Center Court on Saturday, February 22 and officially launched this year’s Mike Stewart Pipeline Invitational.

Once again, the pro bodyboarders were the starring attraction.

Former world champions Mike Stewart, Jeff Hubbard, Dave Hubbard and 18 other top-ranked pros turned out for the event. A few hundred fans were amped and began lining up at noon to ensure their place in the autograph line with bodyboards in tow. Fans were given the chance to mingle with some of the industry’s best athletes. We are very grateful to all the professional bodyboarders who were present.

Their appearance was positive for the community and gave the attendees some inspiration to charge in the water.

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SALTY CREW WINS THE SIMA 2019 BREAK THROUGH BRAND OF THE YEAR "We are very honored and very grateful to announce that Salty Crew won the SIMA 2019 Break through brand of the year! Congrats to the the crew and thank you for all of the hard work you have put into

building a solid brand. Thanks to all of the retailers that have believed in us and gave us a shot and continue to support us and most of all a HUGE thanks to all of the folks in the world that buy our gear, dig our brand and appreciate what we do."

- Tom Ruiz, Marketing Director, Salty Crew

QUIKSILVER’S SUSTAINABLE BOARDSHORT ART COMPETITION

Rell Sunn

For the second year in a row, Quiksilver brought together youngsters from local East-Oahu schools to design a pair of boardies with sustainability as their inspiration. On a template, the kids drew out their vision then added color by glueing on microplastics collected from near-by beaches. The young artists are well-in-tuned to their local surroundings and were eager to bring their creative flair towards raising awareness to environmental challenges unique to their area.

RELL SUNN “HEART OF THE SEA” AT BISHOP MUSEUM Her smile lights up the screen in the touching PBS documentary about the life of Rell Sunn. The story follows the Makaha legend as she navigates a battle with breast cancer with just as much grace as she brings to her surfing. The film was screened at the museum’s hale Feb. 20th in conjuction with the museums’s surf Mai Kinohi Mai exhibit. Several of Sunn’s Makaha friends and family were at the screening including Jeannie Chesser and Keoni Watson.

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The Banzai Pipeline is the nucleus of surf spots, a concentration of raw power and intensity against which all other waves are measured. And if the severity of the wave wasn’t enough of a challenge, you first have to navigate one of the most fiercely competitive lineups in the world just to attempt a wave. This shot of Ivan Florence, a young man about as well-versed in the intricacies of Pipeline as they come, was taken just moments after he’s cleared the gauntlet of the crowd and all of his focus has shifted to the wave itself. Florence through the chaos, aiming for glory.

Ivan Florence. Pipeline.

Photo: Brent Bielmann