Stoke in Place v 1 7 # 8
#stillfree
Josh Moniz Photo: Brian Bielmann
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Last month, we were shocked to hear of the sudden passing of Derek Ho. One of the sport’s true icons, Ho was a kind and charismatic human with amazing ocean talent, crafty competition skills, and a true zest for life. Among his numerous competitive successes are four Triple Crown Titles, two Pipe Master’s Titles, and the monumental achievement of becoming the first ever Hawaiian World Surfing Champion. The surfing world has lost a World Champion, the North Shore community has lost a brother, and Pipeline has lost its King. FreeSurf will be celebrating the life and legacy of Derek Ho in an upcoming Commemorative Issue.
Derek Ho, Pipeline. Photo - Brian Bielmann
E D I T O R ' S
N O T E
Summer Shine
By Andrew Oliver Photo Tommy Pierucki As we edge into nearly half of a year living under the threat of a global pandemic, normalcy in anything, let alone a changing of the seasons, is becoming an ever-distant memory. On the macro level, the reverberations of a globalized economy and society coming to a very sudden and near-complete stop will be felt for decades. There will be generations of scholarly study attempting to decipher the implications of such an event, of which its closest rival, in terms of historic scale, is World War II. On the micro-level, the majority of us are doing our best to navigate these strange times. We’ve become increasingly intimate with our families at home, while at the same time, socially distant to most people we encounter. With shelter in place orders established in varying degrees throughout the US and the world, most have been hesitant to venture too far beyond the nest, leaving us in a weird Groundhog Day-like loop, confined to our immediate communities, which scantily resemble themselves. Spring gave way to summer and it was easy to miss the changing of the seasons - with school already dismissed and many of us at home from work - in what could only be described as a forced vacation. Simply put, we have had more important things to worry about than the welcoming of summer. For Hawai'i’s surfers, this is normally a season of excited expectation. The consistency of surf here in the winter allows for routine; you can depend on it being
there, to the point of taking it for granted. The idea of seeking surf beyond the islands rarely enters your thoughts. You're so content at home, why leave? But, summer is marked by a different vibe altogether. For some, the anticipation of beloved breaks along the southern shore waking from their winter hibernation keeps them happily at home. Others are perfectly content with the many mellow days of surf between swells, enjoying the extra hours of sunlight, and the all-around good vibes of the season. But for a good many, summer is defined by the thrill of jetting off to some far-away locale in hopes of uncrowded exotic perfection. Whatever your seasonal inclinations may have been, this summer has been dramatically different from any other and sees all of us in essentially the same boat. And, all things considered, these are pretty good digs. While it's impossible to downplay the social and economic disruption associated with this crisis, one silver lining that has thankfully remained available to us, is our connection to the ocean. There is much to lament at this moment, but it has been remarkable to hear, from an entire cross-section of our community, utterances of deep gratitude for the simple joys of surfing. Whether it's for a quick personal rejuvenation, or an all-day family affair, an escape to the surf has been an incomparable salve. By no means does it solve our problems, but in this time of unprecedented divide, socially and otherwise, we are grateful for this beacon of solace that we can all share.
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Stoke in Place v 1 7 # 8
Josh Moniz Photo: Brian Bielmann
#stillfree
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C O V E R
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Josh Moniz, Kewalos Photos - Brian Bielmann “I’ve lived on the north shore for 43 years and in all that time I've probably surfed/shot town five or six times. Crazy I know. This summer I was determined to get some good surf and photos, and with the virus fiasco and not being able to travel, what better time to explore the south side. The first swell hit and I decided to follow the talent, everyone was in town which usually does not happen, all the hot young talent, the upcoming girls, the legends Keala and Carrissa, Zeke, and of course the Moniz kids. The waves were pumping and I swear someone was doing an air on every set. No one was killing it more than Josh Moniz, he had a wave on every big set that came through and he made eight out of ten of his airs. This one that made the cover was absolutely massive, and to ride out of it was incredible. I ended up shooting the whole swell there and he was by far the standout. I did manage to get some beautiful surf myself, and now I'm converted, I absolutely love town.� Brian Bielmann, Photo Editor FreeSurf Magazine
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S P O T L I G H T
Honolua Blomfield By Mara Pyzel Photos Brian Bielmann
Tall, tanned, and talented af, the classically elegant Hawaiian longboarder is far more than meets the eye. Multiple World Longboard titles. Check. North Shore native. Yup. Graceful, kind, good-natured. One hundred. Twenty-one-year-old Honolua Blomfield embodies all those things, always. With formal surfing on hold for the time being and travel limitations in place, we decided to check in with O’Neill’s favored longboarding lady. In an exclusive interview with Blomfield herself, Freesurf went beyond the accomplishments that brought her fame - her countless wins and blatantly obvious supreme ocean ability - and got a peek into Blomfield’s fleeting moments of life beyond the board. The queen of quintessential wave-riding style opened up to us about her other lesser-seen sides: her strong connection with her rad fam, her laundry list of surprising hobbies, childhood summers spent with her grandparents on Maui, and her vision for the future. It shouldn’t come as any sort of shock that this talented wahine left us even more impressed than we already were. Here’s why:
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Favorite Break: Sunset Point Her go-to board: When it’s small I ride my 9’3” Dead Kooks. On a little bit of a bigger day, I’d ride my 9’9” Two Crows. So depending on the day, I just check out my window and that determines what I ride. She has always known that she wanted to go pro: I did my first contest and was like, ‘Shoot, I wanna do this!’ I knew I wanted to be a pro at, like, seven years old. I was so competitive, loved to surf, and wanted to compete, always. What's interesting about me is that I've never got nervous in a contest before, and that is truly a blessing because nerves are half the battle in contests!
She has always looked up to her older brother: I definitely learned a lot from my brother when we were growing up. I always wanted to be like him, so that’s where a lot of the [interest in] dirt biking and jiu jitsu and surfing came from. I was always trying to keep up with him. My mom would take him out at Ali'i’s and I’d be like, ‘Mom! My turn! My turn!’ because I saw him doing it. When I was little, I thought I was a little boy, too. It’s so funny because now I’m so girly, kind of. Still, it’s nice to have that background because I can do kind of everything but literally, it is all thanks to my brother - I will say that. In the Blomfield family of six (Mom Lynne, Dad Kolohe, and the four siblings - two boys, two girls), Honolua is the second oldest.
I’m definitely the peacemaker of my siblings. If two of them are fighting I break them up or talk them out of it. It’s actually really important during this time! Boardsports seem to be her signature thing. She skates and snowboards: I started skating [at Banzai Skate Park] and we had a quarter pipe in my garage. When I was little, I was always hanging out with boys - my brothers and cousins and godbrothers. That’s how I learned to skate. I think I dropped in at a young age, too. For Christmas one year we got a half pipe in our yard, so I guess it just did come naturally but it’s also because I started at a young age. I already had the surfing and skating background, so snowboarding just came naturally to me. All three of those sports are really similar to me. So I already had the balance for it and I feel like balance is the most important part of snowboarding. She can catch dinner, too: I have been going fishing with my brothers more often - just my two brothers and I. They catch a lot more than me. I’m not very good, but this pandemic I actually caught five fish on one pole! There’s this rig that has five hooks and I hooked up on all five of them! That was an accomplishment! We actually ate the fish too! The soft-spoken surfer isn’t afraid of a little mud and speed either. She’s a lifelong dirtbiker: I rode my first dirt bike, it was my brother’s, and we still have it to this day! I was three and I was too small to reach the ground so my mom would put me on the bike and I'd ride around in a circle in the yard and she’d have to catch me. They trusted me because I learned how to ride a bike when I was two, so they were like, ‘Well, okay.
If she can peddle her own bike, I’ll let her do this.’ My mom or my grandpa would send me around their yard on Maui and my mom or my brother would catch me. She may be a girly girl, but she’s an empowered girly girl: Dirt biking makes me feel empowered, you know? I guess that’s how I’d put it. Surfing also makes me feel empowered, but… it’s hard to explain, isn’t it? I think it’s more of the like, ‘Oh she’s a girl, but she can do a wheelie on a dirtbike.’ Like, what the heck? That’s so not normal, you know? And I think I like that. [Some people will] just think you’re some girly-girl and then to realize, like, ‘Oh she can surf; she can shortboard...’ This and that, you know? It makes me feel very good and, I dunno... strong. Strong women, right? She does what she loves and loves what she does: All this stuff, it wasn’t forced upon me. I just loved it; I loved being outside and doing things that girls normally wouldn’t do. When I’m on the road, I’m always like, ‘I miss home’. Ten different contests a year, you’re gone every month of the year, so when I was gone it was always like ‘Oh, I want to be home.’ But now that I’m home, I realize why I’m a pro surfer: I actually love traveling. I love competing. And I’m like, ‘Whoa,’ - I really miss it. She’s spending these pandemic days at her family home on the North Shore: I’ve just been surfing, but that’s nothing different from my normal life because - I know it’s bad - but I don’t really do any training or working out or yoga or anything. I occasionally will hike the bunker, but other than that I just kind of surf or play in the yard with my family. Actually, my siblings and I have been playing a lot of football. And… what else…? Oh! Hula hooping! Just funny games, but I swear, it’s like a workout keeping up with all them! If anything, this pandemic has taught me a handful of new skills!
She’s thinking ahead and, like most of us, she’s got big plans: I’ve been thinking about things I’m going to do that I was holding back on. I really wanted to go snowboarding this year and I was like, ‘No, I shouldn’t.’ But nope! [COVID/stay at home order] has really given me the motivation to be like, ‘You know what? I’m gonna go!’ It’s actually kind of cool because now you can gather your thoughts and make a plan for the future… it really sucks what’s going on the world but hopefully this will all be over and we can get back to our normal lives! pau
Photo Tony Heff
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Where we wish we could be. All this time at home allows for ample time to plan your next dream surf trip. Here is a collection of worthy destinations.
Matahi Drollet, Tahiti Photo - Brian Bielmann
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Carlos Munoz, Mexico Photo - Brian Bielmann
Anthony Walsh, Nias, Indonesia Photo - Brian Bielmann
Indonesia Photo - Brian Bielmann
Kiron Jabour, South Africa Photo - Brent Bielmann 30
Stoke in Place South Shore Delight By Andrew Oliver
Hokulani Topping, in her own personal paradise - a once unimaginable nearly-deserted Waikiki. Photo - Kuhio Vellalos
If there was ever a time in need of a distraction, it’s now. The long summer days and ample south swell have been a welcome relief for Hawai’i’s surfers. Surfing has always been considered an escape, and with the lineups consistently packed it’s clear an escape is something we all needed these last few months. The beauty of summer on the island’s southern shores is the variety of diversion on offer - there’s high-performance, bodysurfing, longboarding, barrels, party-waves, and anything in-between. It’s all about being stoked in the place we love.
Zeke Lau Photo - Brian Bielmann
Summertime means something for everyone. Steve Roberson Photo - Tai Van Dyke
Bowls Photo - gOnzo
City Life Photo - John Hook
Friends Photo - Brian Bielmann
Despite the regular summer crowds, moments of solitude are still there to be found. Photo - John Hook
Taking it back to the essentials, Point Panic bodywomp Photo - Brian Bielmann 36
W W W. R A I N B O W S A N D A L S . C O M
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Kai Martin Photo - Brian Bielmann
Kewalo’s has the well-earned title as the south shore performance epicenter. Here’s two standouts of it’s heavily talented lineup.
Kekoa Bacalso Photo - Keoki
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tience and Aloha! pa t, or pp su d ue in nt co ur yo ge Gracias for We would like to extend a hu
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Located in the North Shore Marketplace 66250 Kamehameha Highway Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712
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Finn McGill Photo: Latronic/Freesurf
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Island Fresh Fish Tacos Refreshing Margaritas Happy Hour: 4 to 6 pm Monday - Friday Food & Drink Specials
Aloha is forever. Photo - Brian Bielmann
Zach Lima, Waikiki Photo - Tommy Pieruki
Any way you slice it, all roads lead to stoke.
Keani Canullo, generally graces the waves on her longboard, but if you got style and turns like this you can do it on any type of equipment. Photo - Kuhio Vellalos
Luke Swanson Photo Brian Bielmann
Keala Kennelly Photo Brian Bielmann
Bettylou Sakura Johnson Photo Brian Bielmann
She Surf: The Rise of Female Surfing Intro by Mara Pyzel
The newest iteration of surfing and the women’s movement was just released on hardback and, take it from us, She Surf: The Rise of Female Surfing is completely worthy of some prime real estate on your coffee table. Fresh narratives take you on a femme-focused journey through the minds of inspiring, soul-surfing sisters. Each turn of the page offers up frame after frame of oceanic beauty through turquoise seascapes and graceful boardriding. Explore exotic and novel wave-riding destinations that take you beyond the usual Tahiti or Tofino and glimpse the photogenic breaks of Italy’s Tuscan coast, the Moorish stylings of Africa’s northern Moroccan beaches, even waves in lands as far-reaching as Sri Lanka and India. The voices of today’s surfing females including North Shore mainstays Leah Dawson and Crystal ThornergHomcy who open up about their passion for the sport, their idols, and the issues they have faced as females pursuing a place among the guys in this traditionally male-dominated arena. Their graceful images and articulately defined insight decorate the pages, alongside other global gals including Japanese ripper Ryoko Sezutsu, the Irish maiden Easkey Britton, and more. As much as the 131-pager focuses on the present and peeks into the sport’s female future, the text also takes a look back at the sport’s herstory. Timeline stops range from Bill Ballard’s Blue Crush, a film that elevated the careers of Megan Abubo, Rochelle Ballard, and Keala Kennelly, to the well-researched history of Hawaiian ali'i including surfers like Princess Kaiulani. A broad range of lesserknown board stories add additional flavor and range from the origins of the bikini to fun surf trivia like this gem: famed 1920s British mystery novelist Agatha Christie fell in love with wave riding while traveling the coasts of South Africa and Hawai'i.
notably, the Equal Pay for Equal Pay initiative. You are releasing She Surf: The Rise of Female Surfing to the world at a pinnacle of change along surfing’s timeline. How has this moment informed the book? LH: We’re so lucky that we have ancient Polynesian culture as a touchstone for our modern surfing culture. And when we look to that long history, we see that surfing’s norm has been inclusion. Our primarily white, Western, masculine, middle-class incarnation of surfing culture is the exception, not the rule. It feels like we are moving back toward the rightful inclusivity that makes for healthier and more vibrant communities and subcultures. I wanted women of all shapes, shades and ability levels to see something of themselves in the book, as a reminder that
The brains behind the project is Byron Bay-based co-editor and author Lauren L. Hill. The freesurfing mama and self-described “eco-feminist” who happens to be funky waverider Dave Rastovich’s main squeeze, shared a bit more about what drives her to tell the stories of the females we share the lineup with daily. surfing is theirs, too. I hope my book can begin to communicate the diversity of the global women’s surfing community and their important technical and artistic contributions, as well as the ways female surfers are deeply entwined with social and environmental work.
Freesurf: What draws you in most to the art of surfing? Lauren Hill: I love how just a single wave, or just being in the ocean, can transform a mundane day into an extraordinary one. I feel incredibly fortunate to have access to the alchemy of the ocean.
FS: How did the concept of She Surf: The Rise of Female Surfing take shape initially?
FS: There has been so much evolution recently when it comes to females in general, as well as females in surfing including, most 44
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LH: I’ve spent the last 10 years or so travelling the world as a professional longboarder and writer, and I’ve had the privilege of sharing water time with so many amazing surfers. They are definitely the inspiration for this book. Because there isn’t really a centralized site for housing women’s surf history these days – and because endemic surf media is quite light on its coverage, I also included essays that speak to the ancient and abundant history of women surfers and pay homage to some of the pioneers who helped make surfing culture and performance what it is today. FS: You describe yourself as an “eco-feminist.” What do you mean by that? LH: For me, eco-feminism is a way of connecting the dots between different kinds of pollution that need cleaning up; whether the physical pollution of plastic on our beaches or the social “pollution” of sexism or racism. My feeling is that the same systems and ideologies that allow us to trash our home planet also allow us to treat people who seem different to us, like trash. The prevailing white, Western, colonial approach has been one of domination and separation. We have so much to learn from indigenous cultures who managed to live, work, and play for thousands, or tens of thousands of years, and not desecrate their homelands or waters.
In the heart of Waikiki
Coffee Shop 831 Pearl Hotel Waikiki 411 Nahua (808) 922-0831 www.831hawaii.com
We need alternative stories and histories to rebuild what is no longer working, and I hope that the book, perhaps only in tiny ways, can speak to and empower others to share their own surfing stories and approaches as an alternative to the homogenous narrative we’ve inherited.
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Coffin Drops Channel Islands In a surprising move, WSL pro Conner Coffin dropped his long-time sponsor Channel Islands surfboards, instead taking up with JS. The move was a surprise to many as both Conner and brother Parker have been faithful to their hometown brand since the early days. Parker Coffin still reps the CI logo and any hard feelings seem to have dissipated before they even took form. “It’s been awesome to watch you grow up and live your dreams. Best of luck and I’ll see ya ‘round the neighborhood,” said CI General Manager Scott Anderson. After 16 years with CI, Coffin has his eyes on the future: “I’m excited for the next chapter in craft.” Make way for Baby Moniz Kelia “Sistah” Moniz and husband Joe Termini are expecting! Congrats on the news, Terminis! With genes like that, the little one will, without a doubt, be born a better surfer than most of us could ever hope to be! And with uncles like Seth, Josh, and Isaiah, the keiki will be pecking-order elite at any break.
HAIR AND TATTOO REMOVAL
Michel Bourez foils a Hammerhead While enjoying a downwinder on his Firewire foil July 2nd, Michel Bourez found himself thwarting off an aggressive hammerhead shark who was also seemingly interested in his foilboard. Bourez was gliding between the waters of Tahiti’s Mo'orea and Mahina islands when the shark attacked his foil. Minutes later, the creature again attempted an attack and the surfer was forced to use the foil to put a barrier between himself and the 10-13 foot hammerhead. “We know the risk to get hurt or even dying but the love of our sport is too strong,” said Bourez in a statement shortly after the incident. “Every time I go foiling in the deep blue, I’ve seen hammers sharks cruising around so I know the risk since the beginning.” The surfer, who is currently 13th in the world good-naturedly noted, “The ocean is their world and I respect that! No bad feelings at all! He just owe me a new foil.” Megan Aboubo is a new Mom Congrats to Megan Aboubo and her partner who welcomed new baby Naya into the world this spring.
Model: Mahina Garcia Photographer: @zoardjanko
Kalani Chapman Opens a Surf School Learn from the guy who knows best: born-n-raised Kalani Chapman knows exactly where to be in any weather during any season. The former pro has capitalized on his wave-know-how, launching his namesake surf school on O'ahu’s North Shore. The Kalani Chapman Surf School offers lessons exclusively in the waves of the Seven Mile Miracle, allowing even the most inexperienced beginners the opportunity to catch a wave in surfing’s Mecca. The surfer can now add ‘entrepreneur’ to his resume. Throw him a shaka out in the water and support a local business next time your mainland guests want to try their hand at Hawai'i’s favorite sport.
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Teahupo’o, Tahiti Photo - Brent Bielmann There are few waves on this planet more photographed than Teahupo’o. Staff photographer Brent Bielmann trekked three hours up the steep jungle hills to capture this image. From this remove, you're able to see what a wonder this wave truly is.