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It’s remarkable what a strong surge in swell can do to transform a coastline. Spots that patiently lay dormant for most of the year come to life when the formula of wave alchemy is just right. Jack Ho, knowing where to look for those magic moments - and more importantly when. Photo - Jeremiah Klein
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TA B L E
O F
C O N T E N T S
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Free Parking
14
Editor's Note
16
The Future of Professional Surfing
28
Grom Report
32 #Benswell
Photo- Shane Grace
38
Friday the 13th
46
Nelly
50
WSL Trestles
58
Industry Notes
62
Stuff We Like
66
Last Look
E D I T O R ' S
N O T E
Photo - Jeremiah Klein
Supply and Demand By Andrew Oliver
Supply and demand, one of the cornerstone laws of economics, has never really permeated our daily lives as much as it has in recent history. The economic reverberations from the Covid pandemic, have created unforeseen squeeze points in the global economy. In turn, suppliers have scrambled to meet an unexpected surge in demand, raising prices on everything from groceries, to shipping, to building supplies, and more. What does economics 101 have to do with surfing, you may ask? Maybe it was the images of dozens of giant product laden shipping vessels idling outside of our Western ports, that conjured the all too familiar scenario of bobbing in the lineup with scores of other surfers, eagerly waiting our turn to ride. As surfers we’re accustomed to the laws of scarcity. While we all have an insatiable appetite for good waves, we are constantly reminded of their finite supply. Here on the North Shore, that radical demarcation, between feast and famine, could not be more pronounced. In our summer months, the seven mile miracle is transformed into a seven mile lake, reminding us of that age old notion, that absence makes the heart grow fonder. In the study of economics an abundance of supply should in turn decrease the cost, or value, of a good. But, in surfing, when waves aplenty, do we value them any less? Does our demand diminish? It could be that the act of riding waves is as much a necessity to our survival as that of eating. The fortunate among us have three square meals a day. But, call us gluttons, we want more, and the finer and more exclusive the fare the better. Our primal urges aside, we know that as much as surfing feeds our souls, at least physically, we won’t die without it. In these crazy times, just as you would share food with a stranger if they needed it, it may be worth sharing a wave or two as well. Because the gift of that one wave, those few moments of joy, may have been just the nourishment they needed.
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ST R E TC H FA B R I CAT I ON
ANTI -MI C RO B IA L TRE ATM E N T
INTERNAL D RAWCORD
PACK A B L E D ES IG N
TORREY MEISTER O’N E I L L I N C. 2021 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M
S H O P T H E T R V L R C A R G O S H O RT AT T H E S E PA RT I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S : H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N
DRIVING ON A ROAD UNKNOWN The Future of Surf Competition By Andrew Oliver Forces much larger than surfing have shaped
for the sport being thrust into the largest
events. As much as fans like to complain about
2021 to be a transformative moment in
showcase in its history at the Tokyo Olympics,
a whole litany of things about surf events, the
the sports history - the pandemic, surfing's
and on the other, the evolving logistical
judging, the venues, the commentators, the
debut in the Olympic games, and the WSL’s
challenges of running international events
schedule, and on and on, even the slightest
organizational recalibration - which was in no
during a pandemic, which have been further
changes set forward, in hopes to improve
small part an adaptive response to the former
burdened by increasingly elusive corporate
on things, are generally met with incredible
- have steered the sport into an uncharted
sponsorships that are needed to pull it all off.
resistance from the crowd. Three time World
competitive landscape. Both aspiring pros
Champion Mick Fanning spent 17 years on
and industry veterans alike are navigating
As endless as the possibilities in surfing are,
tour and has as detailed of an understanding
this new world with an outlook that could be
oddly, when it comes to the competitive realm,
of the intricacies of professional surfing as
best described as skeptical optimism. It has
it’s remarkable how cripplingly conservative
anyone on the planet, he’s been firsthand to
been a balancing act to say the least. On one
the framework of competitive surfing can be.
the evolution of the tour and the inherent
hand you have the unprecedented excitement
And, this isn't limited to the organizers of surf
struggles attached to change. “If you throw
With the level of uncertainty in competitive surfing, let alone the world, there’s no telling what direction aspiring pros will go in the future to pursue their competitive dreams. Wherever that road leads, good surfing will always remain the vehicle to get you there. Mahina Maeda, Photo - Christa Funk
DRIVING ON A ROAD UNKNOWN out little changes to the rules here and there
they asked? Such a bold departure from World
the limit of two surfers for each qualified
you’re gonna watch the masses just blow up,
Tour norms was a serious gamble. Luckily,
nation, Toledo wasn’t even in the event. Added
it’s like we want change, but what we're scared
the ocean provided, and in terms of avoiding
to the fact, it was being held midsummer, in
to change,” said Fanning. “You're never going
extended controversy, the right surfers won.
Japan, as unlikely a place to find quality surf
to please everyone.”
as you could choose. Based on some of these
W
The drive to have surfing’s inclusion in the Olympic Games had been decades in the
it was widely expected for the event to land
surf contest, or the tour, at times can seem
making, led in no small part by the President
somewhere between underwhelming and
like the laws of the natural world, and will
of the International Surfing Association (ISA)
embarrassing.
endure unchanged indefinitely. The very
Fernando Aguerre. With the Olympics being
idea of organized professional surfing was a
the ultimate goal for Aguerre, the ISA’s World
The stakes were high, for the first time surfing
radical notion set into place just over 50 years
Championship events mirrored the Olympics in
would be included in the world's largest
ago. One man who had his hand in the very
terms of striving for as diverse of international
platform for sport, and surfing had the odds
inception of what was to eventually become
participation as possible. As a result, the ISA is
working against it to really shine. But, while
hile the framework of a professional
concerns about the sport’s Olympic debut,
the WSL is Sunset Beach local Randy Rarick. In 1976, Rarick, along with fellow surfing champion Fred Hemmings, set out to bring the independent surfing events that were already taking place and give them some structure, a framework which has endured and evolved into the WSL World Tour as we know it today. A true surfer at heart, Rarick is sensitive to the fact that surfing, for the vast majority of us, is a lifestyle and pursuit, first and foremost. But, competition has its place, and Rarick and Hemmings set out to make the best of it. “The good thing about competitive surfing, and what I like about it, is it allows you to bring the best competitive surfers, who are generally the best surfers anyway, together in one venue and put on a show,” said Rarick. “And, I always say, good surf makes for a good surf contest.” The two events of the 2021 that set out to make the biggest changes to the sport in decades, and also drew the most skepticism, the Olympics and the WSL Finals, were by most measures labelled successes. This was achieved in no small part by the fact that they were able to tap into the simple formula Rarick espoused, - the right collection of surfers in contestable waves - and, critically important, there was no disputing the eventual winners. In the WSL Finals, Carissa Moore and Gabriel Medina dominated their respective competitive years and carried that momentum on to winning their World Titles in absolutely pumping Lower Trestles. Beforehand, many questioned the format, including Medina. How could someone who led the ratings all year possibly lose the World Title in one day,
One of the exciting elements of the Olympic Games was the diversity of competitors in the field. Rio Waida representing Indonesia, was one of the many Olympic competitors who isn’t on the WSL Championship Tour, in fact Indonesia has never had a surfer on the WSL Championship Tour. largely responsible for kickstarting competitive
the waves were by no means epic, and not
surfing programs around the world in countries
every surfing megastar made the cut, the
that haven’t been traditionally thought of as
event far exceeded most expectations. And,
being tied to the sport. While inclusiveness is
rather than being a detriment, the diversity of
a worthy goal, it doesn’t always make for the
the surfers, in sticking with the spirit of the
most exciting surf event. On the WSL, while
Games, was one of the great undercurrents
diversity has been a challenge, with some
of the event. Sport, as much as it is tied to
surfing nations being heavily represented, with
victory and defeat, at its best, is also about the
others not having a single surfer on the World
inspiration that can be drawn from individuals
Tour, the caliber of talent on the WSL can’t be
pushing themselves to their personal limits.
argued. In the WSL men’s finals for example,
And, these surfers lived up to that sporting
three Brazilian surfers, Italo Ferreira, Gabriel
ideal as they fulfilled their unlikely Olympic
Medina, and Filipe Toledo, rightfully competed
dream. Fanning for one became a fan, “you
for the World Title. At the Olympics, due to
have a look at someone like Bianca Buitendag,
18
who has been on and off the World Tour. And, then for her to go on to get a silver medal,
Mahina Maeda Photo - ISA / Sean Evans
that's massive. She went home as a huge star in South Africa. So, I think it's great that these opportunities are out there now.”
A
s the event progressed into the final
day, you'd have been hard pressed to find a viewer who did not get swept up in the emotions of seeing Carissa Moore and Italo Ferreira claiming the inaugural gold medals. But, beyond the eventual champions, all of those who participated shared in a proud moment in surfing history. This is something that Mahina Maeda, who surfed for Japan in the Olympics, only began to realize after the games concluded. “Sometimes you hear
M AH I N A MA E DA Mahina Maeda is a competitive surfer from Hawai’i, who represented Japan in the 2020 Olympics. Maeda is hoping to build on her competitive momentum and eventually achieve her ultimate goal of qualifying for the WSL Championship Tour. “Obviously everyone's goal is to be on the Championship Tour (CT), but the Olympics gave an opportunity to a lot of people, some of whom are just outside the same names you would normally see on the CT. Hopefully, the WSL gains some inspiration from the Games to open up the tour a bit more. I'm hoping to see more diversity of surfers on the tour. Honestly, with the current changes to the WSL, a lot of the athletes have been saying that the new Challenger Series (CS) is basically the new Championship Tour. And, I think that's how a lot of people feel about the Olympics. Next year will be the first full year where the major changes on the WSL will come into play, and I feel like a lot of the focus will be on the CS. Events are going to be held in more quality waves at places where they originally had CT events, like Snapper Rocks for example. We're gonna see a diverse field of athletes attending the CS, and with the quality of waves changing, we're gonna be seeing different people rise to the occasion. Not just the normal countries like the USA, Australia, and Brazil. So, it's going to turn the whole situation
One unique twist in the road to Olympic qualification are the numerous surfers who carry dual citizenship, or heritage, that surfed for nations other than where they were primarily raised. Case in point, Leon Glatzer, American born to German parents, raised in Costa Rica, and represented Germany in the Games. The embodiment of how truly international surfing has become. Photo - ISA / Sean Evans people say that no one remembers second, third, or fourth,” said Maeda. “And, obviously I didn't win the Olympics, but people remember that I am an Olympian. So, that's the cool part, to be acknowledged for something like that.” So, in the span of a couple of months we’ve had two massively audacious events, both executed to relative success, each with quite different visions for what elite surfing should be. The Olympics at its core is an international institution, and is bound to it’s staid norms of how sports
around.”
sing
Keanu A
( N E W S T O R E LO C AT I O N ! )
should be regulated and presented. While
M I C K FAN NI NG
there has been great excitement around surfing’s inclusion, surfing is just one of a
Mick Fanning is a three time WSL World
long list of sports under Olympic jurisdiction.
Champion and one of the most dominant
On the other hand you have the WSL, which
competitors of all time. While retired from
is essentially a private enterprise, and is
competition, Fanning is still deeply attuned to
comparatively nimble in what it can attempt
the workings of the sport, including regularly
to do. And, while the WSL has only the sport
offering his insight on the WSL’s Getting
of surfing to concern itself with, it has an
Heated show.
arguably more consuming issue to contend with - a bottom line.
“You have to remember at the end of the day, the WSL is a media company. Like any
“You have to remember at the end of the day,
company, they’re interested in making money.
the WSL is a media company,” said Fanning. “Like any company, they’re interested in
Mick Fanning Photo - Brian Bielmann
And because they're not making dollars off their major product right now, which is the World Tour, they are gonna explore new avenues, but also try to reach out to new audiences. So, even though this Ultimate Surfer could be cringy for the core surfers, it's putting eyeballs on the sport where we've struggled to get them. I can't actually comment on the show because I haven't watched it. But, it's the same as the Olympics, more eyeballs means more money for the people that are actually surfing. To be really honest, I think surfing's sort of been stagnant for a while now. In the early 2000s, surfing and the surf industry as a whole was on the rise. Everyone wanted to be a surfer and to wear surf gear. Where now, you're watching guys and girls that are incredible surfers, lose their jobs because these companies don't have that money. So, as hard as it is for some people to accept,
While the title of WSL’s foray into reality television, The Ultimate Surfer, was a bit of a farce, the opportunity it provided of three wildcards on the Championship Tour was nonetheless real. Zeke Lau, as dedicated a competitor as they come, was not gonna pass up an opportunity to return to the big leagues - even if it meant playing in the kiddie pool first. Photo- Shane Grace making money. And because they're not making dollars off their major product right now, which is the World Tour, they are gonna explore new avenues.” One of those very visible avenues is the reality show blunder The Ultimate Surfer, which has been universally excoriated, as it failed to be engaging reality TV or an exciting surf event. However, there may be TV redemption on the horizon, as it is rumored that the WSL has been working with the same production company that produced the fantastic Formula 1: Drive to Survive series on Netflix. Hollywood dreams aside, there have been structural changes by the WSL to its major product, its professional tours, that while less visible, will greatly alter the face of professional surfing for the foreseeable future. The WSL has unveiled a three-tier system for qualification, with seven Regional Qualifying Series’ feeding their top talent to the global Challenger Series, from there, the top 10 men and top 5 women will make it to their ultimate goal of qualifying for the Championship Tour.
we're going to have to go through some different worlds to actually get those glory days of the early 2000s. And, I think all sports go through peaks and valleys. And, at the moment I think surfing is probably in a bit of a valley, just the industry as a whole. I mean, if I came to you in the early 2000s and said that Billabong and Quiksilver we’re gonna be one company, you’d tell me to f--k off. It goes to show you a bit of the times where surfing's at. I think people are gonna have to take chances for the sport to grow again. I think taking a risk and, and having a go, I think we probably need more of that. It's tough out there right now.”
Josh Moniz
Photo: Brent Bielmann/Freesurf
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I
R A N DY R A R I C K
t has been an open secret that the WSL
has been struggling financially for some time, especially funding amorphous international
Randy Rarick has an unrivaled involvement
Qualifying Series events, which are a
with professional surfing administration.
much harder sell to sponsors than the elite
Rarick, along with Fred Hemmings, is
Championship Tour events. Reflecting on his
one of the founding organizers of the
many decades of contest management, Randy
International Professional Surfers (IPS), the
Rarick is all too familiar with costs of running
forerunner to what eventually became the
these events, “my budget when I was running
WSL. He was also the executive director of
the Triple Crown was about $2.3 million, and
the Triple Crown of Surfing for nearly 30
that covered everything from the security, to
years.
the lunches, to the scaffolding, all the nuts and bolts it takes to put an event on, and then
“I think the WSL were really hoping the
you have a prize money on top of that,” said
Olympics was going to be the jumpstart to Randy Rarick Photo - Keoki
get sponsorship and support, and it hasn't really happened. My prediction is that you're going to see the WSL pull way back and the regional tours will become the focus again rather than international tours. It will go back to regionalization. We had really strong regions and the ASP (the precursor to the WSL) brought those regions all together and did a good job of it. Then the economy of the surf industry took its toll. The surf industry guys through the 80’s through to the 2000’s built the tour. They were pouring money into professional surfing and it was selfserving because that was their market. And then, the surf industry took a hit and they basically just handed off the events to the WSL. And, the WSL had a vision that they thought could grow surfing's interest worldwide. And I think it's shown that it hasn't worked. I'm sure there's more
In response to Covid restrictions the 2020 Vans Triple Crown went digital, John John Florence, the eventual winner put on a historic display of surfing over several weeks of pumping surf. While the event was a last minute response to an unprecedented situation, it could be used as a guide to alternative competition formats. Photo- Shane Grace
surfers than ever, but in terms of interest in competitive surfing, not so much. So, I think what'll happen is the WSL will pull back, and it will be the regional people who will want to pick up the ball and run with it. I think the Australians always do a
Rarick. “So, it's not a cheap endeavor and you have a lot of moving parts. And now with Covid, trying to get people together and present a safe environment. It's tough. And, I think we're going to be stuck in this COVID thing for at least another year. So, I see the events being curtailed for another year.”
pretty good job. The Brazilians, regionally, have done a pretty good job. Here in Hawaii is a tough sell because of permits and, uh, and availability of sites to be able to run a tournament. It makes it really hard. But, When we ran the Triple Crown, we ran it as a positive, because of all our sponsorship support and local support.”
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DRIVING ON A ROAD UNKNOWN In these times, there's no saying what the future may hold, and the WSL has already had to endure several event cancellations and last minute schedule changes. But, in terms of the very pinnacle of the sport, the WSL has made it clear that promoting a hyper-elite group of surfing superstars is their path forward. And, if the WSL Finals is any indication for what's in store, from an entertainment and marketability standpoint they may have a winning strategy. On the other hand, for the hundreds of aspiring pros around the world, the Championship Tour is an ever shrinking target, which leaves a lot of global talent, and their respective stories and audiences looking for a home too.
The future of Big Wave Competition is a whole other kettle of fish, but 4-time Peahi Challenge Champion Billy Kemper’s competitive prowess isn’t limited to the giant stuff. Kemper is a perennial threat in the Hawaiian WSL events. With the WSL’s shifts to regional tours being the pathway to ultimate Championship Tour qualification surfers like Kemper may have a clearer path to the Dream Tour. Photo- Shane Grace
F
ollowing a stellar junior career, with two ISA World Junior Titles and a WSL World Junior Title, Mahina Maeda had what looked like on paper to
be the perfect pedigree for WSL success. But, the Qualifying Series has long been known to be a graveyard for many careers. “I really had a slump and I felt really depressed about my surfing and depressed with where my career was going with surfing,” said Maeda. Qualifying for the Olympics really turned the page for her, and breathed new life into her competitive drive. “The year I had the burnout, that's when they announced that surfing was going to be a part of the Olympics,” said Maeda. “And, then I kinda started looking at life a bit differently.” Maeda for one is optimistic about the future and what challenges lay ahead. “A lot of the athletes have been saying that the new Challenger Series is basically the new Championship Tour,” said Maeda, who is qualified to compete on the Challenger Series. “Events are going to be held in more quality waves at places where they originally had CT events. We're gonna be seeing different people rise to the occasion. I think that's kind of similar to the Olympics.” 26
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DIESEL STORM Intro By Jason Shibata
Diesel Storm, his name suits his approach to wave riding perfectly; full throttle with immense power. A very focused young man, Diesel balances his determination with his warm demeanor and caring heart. Diesel’s love for the ocean doesn’t start or stop at the shoreline, he carries it with him wherever he goes and his actions speak louder than words. Having been mentored by many positive role models, like his uncle Keith “Bradda Skibs” Nehls, at a young age Diesel has been taking care of his beaches, parks, and trails in his beloved home on Hawai’i island. Working hard and doing the right thing is how Diesel has been raised and we applaud his parents Quinton and Laurie for instilling these valuable traits in him. Name: Diesel Storm Nainoa Yoshio Butts Age: 15 Home Break: Honoli’i, Big Island Home Town: Pepeekeo Stance: Goofy Foot. Power Surfer. Sponsors: Volcom, Basic Image, Body Glove, Tokoro Surfboards, Bubble Gum Surf Wax, North Shore Surf Shop, DVM, Little Hands Hawaii Sunscreen, Ronin Sunglasses, The Alex & Duke De Rego Foundation, Stay Humble Pray, BJ Penn.
Diesel Storm Photo - Tai Van Dyke
When did you first start surfing? When I was 7 I entered my first surfing contest at Hakalau Mill. I won 1st place. After that my dad would take me every day. I would come home from school and tell him “we go surf, we go surf.” I would practice daily and got better each day. Inspirations? Duke Kahanumoku, Sunny Garcia, Zeke Lau, Makua Rothman, Mikey O’Shaunessy, The Moniz Brothers. Biggest Wave? When I was 9, during Hurricane Iselle. The wave I rode was 10 ft Hawaiian. Also, Waimea bay this past winter. The waves were huge around 30-
40ft. Faces. 15-20 ft Hawaiian. That was the first time I ever surfed Waimea Bay and I was taking off on the bombs and I was in the peak (not on the shoulder lol) Surfing Goals? To win Nationals. I was close so many times. I won Regionals before. At nationals I usually make it to the finals and always get second place. (I lost by less than half a point 2 years in a row.) Another goal of mine is to surf Jaws…and to one day become the World Champion.
Hobbies other than surfing? Jiu jitsu, I love to hunt and dive! Where I live we are lucky we can drive our Polaris to the Mauka to hunt wild boars and to the Makai to dive, fish, and surf. On weekends we do Beach clean ups with Uncle Skibs the Basic image crew and also I help teach water safety and ocean awareness with The Alex & Duke De Rego Foundation. StrengthsDoing anything from the mountain to the ocean. (Mauka 2 Makai)
Favorite Surfers? Too many!
WeaknessKeeping Still. And staying focused. I get bored easily.
Contest or Free Surf? Free surf! Surfing is an expensive sport. Contest fees, boards, air fare, surfboards air fees. It all adds up. And, sometimes contests can be political.
Quiver? Tokoro-5”8 Squash Tokoro-5”8 Round tail Tokoro-5”9 Round tail
Tokoro-6”6 Round pin Tokoro-6”10 Round pin Instagram? @diesel808storm Any last words? Work hard. keep on going, stay positive, never give up and Always believe in YOUrself. And Represent. The Native Hawaiian Surfers don’t get as much acknowledgement. There’s a lot of good talented Native Hawaiian surfers out there. It’s just that we don’t get as much media. Our Native Hawaiian ancestors invented surfing yet we are being left out. “Winners Are Losers Who Never Gave Up.” Mahalo Pau
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# b e n s w e l l Unfortunately, some summer’s go by without a single swell of any significance on the south shore. However, this past summer was marked by one bomber - and how fitting for it to peak on the very same day as the Hawaiian surfing community gathered to pay their respects to the late Ben Aipa. Aipa was a pillar in the Hawai’i board building and surfing community for half of a century, and his influence spread far beyond the island shores. A true surfer through and through - and what better way to celebrate a life lived in the surf than in pumping waves
Ian Soutar, gliding on an Akila Aipa shaped board - the legacy continues. Photo - Christa Funk
Ben Aipa Memorial Ceremony Photos - Brian Bielmann
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With the bounty of swell, epic sessions went down all over the coast. Unidentified, finding a gem. Photo - Jeremiah Klein
Along with being a world-renowned surfer and shaper, Ben Aipa was also one of the most sought after coaches in the sport. Koa Smith, a former protege, laying one down for his coach during the memorial paddle out. Photo - Brian Bielmann
Eric Tema, father of up and coming ripper Luke Tema, and like any true surf dad still a grom at heart. Locking into an early morning beauty. Photo - Jeremiah Klein
Mike Ho Photo - Brian Bielmann
South Shore Bounty Photo - Jeremiah Klein
Jack Ho Photo - Tommy Pierucki
Kauli Vaast, 19 years old, on a wave of 100 lifetimes.
f r i d a y
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Photos - Ben Thouard
There are natural occurrences in this world that are wonders to behold - XXL Teahupo’o is one of them. Before the swell graced the southern shores of Hawai’i, one of the craziest sessions in recent years went down at the “End of the Road.” Along with a handful of international chargers, it was a new generation of young Tahitians who stole the show. Surfing waves like these transcend our understanding of what is humanly possible. And it's crazy to imagine that some of these guys are just getting started.
Nathan Florence, one of the few visiting pros that made their way over for the swell, looking right at home in a monster.
Lucas Chianca
Fittingly, the biggest wave of the swell was tamed by the local wunderkid, Matahi Drollet. For such a young surfer has amassed an incredible reputation as one of the most talented surfers in the world in waves of extreme consequence. Drollet’s performance during this swell adds some major bonafides to an already impressive resume.
Dave “Nelly” Nelson Dual Perspective Photobook “This is my whole life. It's 25 plus years of photos.”
A friend once shared a story of Dave “Nelly” Nelson that perfectly encapsulates the veteran photographer’s endless levels of psych. It was the early 2000’s, surf companies were enjoying inflated budgets, and Nelly was the hired photographer for a team boat trip in the Mentawai’s. As it was described, Nelly without fail, would start everyday, with a pre-dawn surf session, before the young pros even awoke, and then proceed to shoot all day long in the searing Indonesian heat - never missing a moment. That’s Nelly, always on, always stoked, and always in the spot. A quarter century dedicated to his craft has yielded an enormous body of work. Dual Perspective, his first book, is a collection of some of his finest photos and the stories behind the incredible images.
“I promised Dusty Payne a cover 10 years ago, we did a trip to P-Pass and killed it, but right after we went I turned around and went back with John John and he stole Dusty’s cover! Haha I’ve always been really close with Dusty, he is f***ing rad. We are friends outside of the shallow surf world. I was tripping hard when he got hurt. I went to Maui and visited him with my family, and they took such care of us, true ‘ohana style. That’s why I gave him the cover, because he’s real as f**k.”
What's the meaning behind the name of your book, Dual Perspective? I went to some of the surfers that are in the book and I got their perspective of the photo that I ran. And then I told my own story. So, it has two different stories for some of the photos. It was a really exciting process. There were multiple times when I was editing in my office, or on my slide table where I was laughing to myself about the photos, and what I was finding. I was remembering stuff, from crazy photos from the past that I don't even remember. Or even if I did remember him, it would just trigger those exact moments. You know what I mean? And, the same thing happened to the surfers. They're like, “Oh my God, how's this shot? Either they had never seen it or they hadn't seen it in 20 plus years. So, it was really cool to relive it with them.
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What was the spark that started this project? I've always wanted to do a book, but what made me do it really was Covid. It probably would have never happened if it wasn't for that. Everything was closed down here in Santa Cruz. So it's like, why not go in and start the process? And then once I started editing through all my old slides and stuff, it was so exciting. I was like, whoa, I found all these photos that I didn't even remember. Putting out a book is no easy feat, especially self-publishing it like you have, what was the process like? At one point towards, toward the end. I felt like it was never going to get done, just because there was so much left to do. And so, my friend and I just sat and powered it out for 14 days straight. We’d work all day on it, like 8, 9 hours a day. Like, “Let's get this thing done!” Because it was so far along, but we couldn't push it further, we'd meet up on it and we'd get almost nothing done. It takes digging in, and takes some time to find your pace to really get stuff done. But, then all of a sudden you start moving at a faster pace. Finally, we just had to power through. It was semi-miserable at the end, not going to lie. What was the biggest challenge? The hardest part was you’d find a sick photo and be like, “Oh my God, look at this!” And then we’d get it all ready and set in the book and then we would scan it and you'd be like, “This slide is thrashed.” It had been to Black Flys, Surfing Mag, here and there, and they would get scratched and dusty over time. So, then we'd have to start the whole process again. We'd have to go back to a different shot or find a digital shot as a lot of the slides were damaged. It just happens over time, a 25 year old slide is bound to be damaged in one way or the other. How many of those photos would you guess are like that, lost to time? To be honest with you, I was such a frother that I have so many photos that it doesn't even matter. Basically I'm an addict, and when I quit drinking, smoking, and doing drugs my new addiction was photography. And so I shot pretty much every time it was sunny for years and years on end. That's all I did was shoot, shoot, shoot. I was so frothed out on it that I kind of have too many photos to tell you the truth. I mean, we're talking about hundreds and hundreds of thousands of photos.
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Carissa Moore and Gabriel Medina Claim Surfing World Titles, Win First-Ever Rip Curl WSL Finals Gabriel Medina (BRA) and Carissa Moore (HAW) win Rip Curl WSL Finals and are the undisputed 2021 WSL Champions. Credit: © WSL
LOWER TRESTLES, San Clemente, California (Tuesday, September 14, 2021) – Carissa Moore (HAW) and Gabriel Medina (BRA) are the undisputed 2021 World Surf League (WSL) Champions after defeating Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) and Filipe Toledo (BRA) today in their respective Title Matches at the Rip Curl WSL Finals. It was an exhilarating day of surfing at the first-ever, one-day winner-take-all event in pumping, six-to-eight foot south swell at Lower Trestles. Medina and Moore both entered the Rip Curl WSL Finals as World No.1, which gave them the advantage of a place in the best-of-three Title Match where the first surfer to win two out of three heats becomes the undisputed 2021 World Champion.
Carissa Moore Wins 5th World Title Moore came into the event as the reigning WSL Champion, World No. 1 and Olympic gold medallist and her victory marks the first time in her career that she has claimed back-to-back World Titles. Moore has been the most consistent surfer on Tour this season and is the only person to reach the Semifinals or better in all seven events. The five-time World Champion has finished 3rd or better at every CT event since the 2019 Margaret River Pro and 2021 marks the 10th consecutive season that Moore has won more than 20 heats, the longest streak in WSL history. Moore sits behind 11X World Champion Kelly Slater (USA), and 7X World Champions Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) and Layne Beachley in the record books for most world titles.
The lineup prior to Match 1 of the Rip Curl WSL Finals on September 14, 2021 at Lower Trestles, San Clemente, California. Photo by Pat Nolan/ World Surf League
CONGRATULATIONS SHION C RAWFORD U18 USA SURFING CHAMPION creatures-usa.com | @creaturesofleisure
Photo: Pete Frieden
N E W S “It was a long year and it was a very long day,” said Moore. “Today didn’t start as I expected, I had to fight my way back so it made it a bit sweeter to win. I was about to have a meltdown after the first heat. I tried my best, surfed from my heart, and it worked out. I’ve never been in the water when winning a world title, so this is extra special. I couldn’t ask for anything more!” Gabriel Medina Clinches Third World Title Medina’s win today sees him join surfers such as Tom Curren, Andy Irons and Mick Fanning with three World Titles. With 16 WSL Championship Tour (CT) event wins and 29 Final appearances under his belt, Medina is one of the most experienced surfers when it comes to producing the best surfing under pressure. This season, Medina had the best start in his career, reaching the Final in the opening three events on the men’s CT. He gained a significant lead over the rest of the field when he won the Rip Curl Narrabeen Classic presented by Corona and the Rip Curl Rottnest Search presented by Corona, his first event wins in Australia since the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast in 2014. Since winning his first World Title in 2014, Medina has finished in the top 5 every year, including his second World Title in 2018. “This was my biggest goal in surfing,” said Medina. “It’s not everyday you accomplish your dream. This is a special day for me, it’s a day I’ll remember forever and tell my kids about. This year was very intense and mentally challenging, I had to work hard, have patience and let my surf talk. I had to surf a lot to win this title!”
WSL Final 5 Put on a Show With Solid Conditions at Lower Trestles
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Four-time WSL Champion Carissa Moore of Hawaii surfing in the Title Match of the Rip Curl WSL Finals on September 14, 2021 at Lower Trestles, San Clemente, California. (Photo by Tony Heff/World Surf League)
“Today didn’t start as I expected, I had to fight my way back so it made it a bit sweeter to win, “ said Moore. “I tried my best, surfed from my heart, and it worked out. I’ve never been in the water when winning a world title, so this is extra special. I couldn’t ask for anything more!” Carissa Moore
WSL Champion Italo Ferreira of Brazil surfing in Match 3 of the Rip Curl WSL Finals on September 14, 2021 at Lower Trestles, San Clemente, California. (Photo by Kenny Morris/World Surf League)
Seven-time WSL Champion Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) had the opening ride of the historic Rip Curl WSL Finals but was defeated by Johanne Defay (FRA) in Match 1. Defay then advanced on to Match 2 where she was eliminated by Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS). “I feel super happy to be here today,” said Defay. “This is already the best result of my whole career, so I’m just focused on surfing Lowers one more time and see where the day will take me.” Rookie of the Year, Morgan Cibilic (AUS) had his Title shot against Conner Coffin (USA) in men’s Match 1. Cibilic had a good run at it, but Coffin’s rail work and power were simply 52
too much to handle. Coffin advanced to Match 2 against Filipe Toledo (BRA), and the Brazilian started the Match by dropping the first air maneuver of the day. With a combined score of 16.57 (out of a possible 20), Toledo advanced to Match 3 where he faced fellow Brazilian, Olympic gold medalist and 2019 WSL Champion, Italo Ferreira (BRA). With the hope of winning his maiden World Title, Toledo came into Match 3 as the underdog, but delivered a dynamic performance and took the win against Ferreira.
Two-time WSL Champion Gabriel Medina of Brazil surfing in the Title Match of the Rip Curl WSL Finals on September 14, 2021 at Lower Trestles, San Clemente, California. (Photo by Tony Heff/World Surf League)
“I feel ready to go and I’m super happy that my surfing is good today,” said Toledo. “I’ve been really working on the process of waiting for the perfect wave. I’ve been trying to be patient, choose right, and have the confidence to go for it.” Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) entered the Title Match with plenty of momentum after winning women’s Match 3 against Fitzgibbons and won her opening heat against Moore. In the end though, Weston-Webb couldn’t match the 5X WSL Champion’s power and fell short of claiming her maiden World Title, finishing the season as World No. 2. For highlights from the Rip Curl WSL Finals and the 2021 Championship Tour, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.
Conner Coffin Photo by Pat Nolan/World Surf League
“This was my biggest goal in surfing,” said Medina. “It’s not everyday you accomplish your dream. This is a special day for me, it’s a day I’ll remember forever and tell my kids about.” Gabriel Medina
Tatiana Weston-Webb of Brazil surfing in the Title Match of the Rip Curl WSL Finals on September 14, 2021 at Lower Trestles, San Clemente, California. (Photo by Tony Heff/ World Surf League)
Filipe Toledo Photo by Pat Nolan/World Surf League
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Rip Curl WSL Finals Results:
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Women’s Match 1: Johanne Defay (FRA) 12.17 DEF. Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 6.70 Men’s Match 1: Conner Coffin (USA) 15.00 DEF. Morgan Cibilic (AUS) 9.84 Women’s Match 2: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 11.33 DEF. Johanne Defay (FRA) 6.66 Men’s Match 2: Filipe Toledo (BRA) 16.57 DEF. Conner Coffin (USA) 14.33 Women’s Match 3: Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 13.17 DEF. Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 11.73 Men’s Match 3: Filipe Toledo (BRA) 15.97 DEF. Italo Ferreira (BRA) 12.44 Women’s Title Match, Heat 1: Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 15.20 DEF. Carissa Moore (HAW) 14.06 Men’s Title Match, Heat 1: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 16.30 DEF. Filipe Toledo (BRA) 15.70 Women’s Title Match, Heat 2: Carissa Moore (HAW) 17.26 DEF. Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 15.60 Men’s Title Match, Heat 2: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 17.53 DEF. Filipe Toledo (BRA) 16.36 Women’s Title Match, Heat 3: Carissa Moore (HAW) 16.60 DEF. Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 14.20 For more information, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com
@freesurfmag
Mokulele Surf Team Rider
Luke Swanson
128 Daily Inter-Island Flights! Photo Brian Bielmann
The Best Way to Surf More Hawai'i
I N DUSTRY NOTES The Show Must Go!
Nissan Super Girl Surf Pro
The bi annual Surf Expo went off this September 9-11 at the Orange County Convention Center and Freesurf was once again representing the magazine and digital media world in a meaningful way. There was some strong and obvious stoke and mahalo once again to our friends at Surf Expo for hosting us!
This September top female surfers returned to Oceanside Pier for the 14th annual Nissan Super Girl Surf Pro, a 3 day competition and music festival. 90 women will compete, professional’s such as Carissa Moore, Caroline Marks and Sage Erickson among them. The competition begins Friday, Sept 17 and ends with finals on Sunday, Sept. 19 in Oceanside, CA.
Zeke Lau Bows to no Man, But he does bow. One of the most consistent power brokers in the surf took the plunge recently. Zeke Lau bows for no man in the surf but as you can see power house surfer from Hawaii dropped a knee to propose to his longtime sweetheart Jenna Bleu. She said “Yes!”.
Lower Trestles Anyone familiar with the world-renowned peelers near the mouth of Orange County's San Mateo Creek has heard about the fight to "Save Trestles." To acknowledge the Acjachemen people’s history at Trestles and the surrounding coastline, the tribe was invited to participate in this year’s Rip Curl WSL Finals. For the first time ever, representatives from the Acjachemen Nation will be leading opening and closing ceremonies that will include traditional prayers and blessings for the event.
Reckless Isolation Surfing Movie: The trip of a lifetime. “Reckless Isolation” documents five childhood friends scoring perfect, empty waves at one of surfing’s meccas. The film stars Team O'Neill's Ian Crane alongside San Clemente's Kolohe Andino, Griffin Colapinto, Luke Davis, and Crosby Colapinto. The film will premiere in 11 U.S. cities through the month of September and parts of October. Visit https://us.oneill. com/ for more info and viewing opportunities.
Local Boy Gets Honored Local shredder Sean Yano is still getting cover shots !! . The east side Oahu surfer is still ripping on a board, but now well into adulthood and far beyond his professional surfing years, Yano is shredding in the real estate market. I’m honored to be featured in Honolulu Real Producers Magazine. It’s a good feeling to be recognized for the work that my partner Jared Musser and I get to do everyday, strategically helping our clients reach their real estate goals. This accomplishment would not be possible if it wasn’t for our loyal clients putting their trust in our team. Thank you for allowing us to serve you…”
Maui Surf Culture There’s yet another new spot to pick up Freesurf on Maui! The team @ mauisurfculture is stoked and enjoying new Freesurf Magazines. Maui Surf Culture is a local roots run surf school and surf shop, in Lahaina, Hi. They embody the true spirit of ALOHA!!! 58
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I N D USTRY NOTES Loyal to the Foil
Honolua Bay - Clean as ever thanks to community help
Former super surf rep Noel Marchon is now a leading sales executive at Better Northshore realty. With a booming market, it’s par for the course to be dealing with the intricacies, complications and hard work that he performs for his clients in real estate. This of course does NOT “foil” Noel’s pursuit of fun in the sun and with his newest passion, “Foiling is brand new to me but it’s fun, fast and the new hot thing. It’s important to keep learning in life and work! It's ocean therapy really and helps me keep an authentic smile on my face!
Big ups and Mahalo to Les Potts and the crew on Maui for rocking the Honolua bay surf coalition beach clean up this last month. Gotta love it when local surfers show aloha and kokua their home breaks!
Mama Kuleana arrives on Waikiki shores Our friends at Mama Kuleana Reef and Skincare are proud to featured as the “official” reef safe sunscreen of the new Roxy store at Outrrigger Waikiki.
In the Pit as usual Local Maui rippers Nora Liotta and Stella Valdez are sporting new shades ala a new sponsorship by Pit Viper. Pit Vipers have a “retro look with a hint of steroids.”
Freesurf Magazine presents Waikiki Beach Gathering's
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Single parents, kids, and anyone who would love to learn how to surf is invited for our monthly event!
Go to www.wbg.church for more details!
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Stuff We Like
Salty Crew Tandem Boardshort
+ 4-way stretch soft hand feel with quick dry fabrication + Side entry front pockets + Single rear pocket with shock cord and drain hole + 19" outseam + 93% polyester / 7% spandex
Volcom Harley & J tee
You're in for a treat with the Harley & J tee. Part of Volcom's Featured Artist series, this cute cotton tee was made in collaboration with graphic designer and illustrator, Jasmin Meier, who feels inspired by the natural world and vintage psychedelic music posters.
Vans Construct Skool Backpack
The Construct Skool Backpack features a recognizable sidestripe aesthetic for a fresh Vans take on the classic, do-it-all backpack. From the padded laptop compartment and slip-in tablet pocket to the anti-odor treatment and ComfyStrap® ergonomic shoulder straps, the Construct Skool Backpack is ready for wherever your day takes you. The heritage details, like our iconic checkerboard print or workwear-inspired logo label, ensure you get there in style.
Reef Mick Fanning Collection
How you become a legend: work, sweat, repeat. Surfing great Mick Fanning inspired this hard. working flip flop. With a synthetic nubuck upper, padded liner, compression molded footbed with a heel airbag, plus herringbone rubber outsole with built.in bottle opener to celebrate success.
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Global barrel hunter Balaram Stack has threaded more oversized pits than most. But, this is surely one that he won’t forget anytime soon. Photo - @sacraficiallamb