Freesurf Magazine - v18n5 - The Photo Issue

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PHOTO ISSUE

v 1 8 # 5

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TA B L E

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Editor's Note

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Bobby Owens

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Maui Gold

C O N T E N T S

Dayanidhi Das

Brian Bielmann

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O F

Sarah Lee

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Industry Notes

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Stuff We Like

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Last Look



V O L U M E

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N U M B E R

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Editorial Publisher

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Editor

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Andrew Oliver

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E D I T O R ' S

N O T E

Photo Brian Bielmann

A Captured Ride By Andrew Oliver

Photography and surfing have many parallels, at their heart is the attempt to capture the fleeting moments of nature that encompass our lives. In photography, we capture motion and light, to immortalize moments that would otherwise expire into the cosmos. In surfing, we refer to it as “catching” waves. While the act of riding waves in itself won’t freeze a given moment forever in time - like a photograph is able to. We’d like to believe that an epic ride is something that will be with us forever.

In this era of photographic deluge, surfing, a pastime inextricably linked to the impermanence of nature, has become another aspect of our documented lives. With GoPros, follow cams, Surfline rewind, and the age-old handicam round robin, an unrecorded ride is becoming increasingly rare. However, from the very outset, photography freed itself from the confines of being merely a medium of documentation. Artists took it as another tool to express, light, composition, abstraction, and all the other elements used to evoke emotion in their viewers. Surf photography is the ideal genre, to express both of these defining traits documentation and artistic license.

It is probably no coincidence that the arc of modern surfing history coincides with the rise of photography. What better medium to catalog such a miraculous act - a literal walk on water. The few early black and whites of Hawaiian beach boys, stoically poised on the rollers of Waikiki, must have astounded viewers when they made their initial circulation. Fast forward to today, where nearly every man, woman, and child is equipped with a high powered camera on their person at all times. Along with the means to catalog, edit, and share their photos to the world - instantaneously. Photography has become the essential lingua franca of our times.

In this special Photo Issue, we highlight some of Hawai’i’s finest surfshooters, those who not only capture the essential moments, but inspire us through their mastery of the medium. As surfers we are blessed to be witness to some of the most incredible and indescribable moments on the planet. Luckily, we have the photographic masters (like those featured in this issue) preserving those special moments - and making them truly unforgettable, for all of us.

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Josh Moniz, Pipeline

Photo: Brian Bielmann/Manulele

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Bobby Owens Intro by Bernie Baker Interview by Mike Latronic

It’s not twilight or late afternoon, yet. Just, that 5 pm sun dropping like-a-lead-balloon into the clouds blocking Kauai from Rocky Point. Bobby Owens makes his way out to the point at Rockies, his favored spot just where the line-up splits visually, then he digs in for his 2 hour shoot. Hard to believe it, but he’s here when most shooters come down slightly after dawn, or have already packed up their SD cards and screens and gotten the hell out of here for home, cold water and laptop to preview their day's images. For Bobby, this 5 pm hour is just the beginning of his day of shooting. He scanned everyone out on the split peak, then adjusted to a higher range of ISO on the camera’s dial than anyone cares to shoot images at. Literally, there’s no one shooting. The few who are still on retainer sit it out till the person they’re shooting tells them with a hand wave they can now leave. And this is his time. For Bobby, “no tripod for me” he possibly reads the dropping light through the clouds, hand cradles the long zoom, then tucks down in his floppy hat and just lets ‘er rip on the card. It’s now at this moment, the few seconds before the last beams light up the top third of the wave, it’s when Bobby is in deep concentration in his shooting. He’s not focused on anyone in particular, the dying light is giving him half-shadow images at best, silhouettes more than likely and for sure nothing else. But, if there’s that gouge, an air into barely any light, or speed blurs (or anything else an ISO ?00 will afford him) he’s on it like rotten fish to a feral cat. Half the line-up has already had their last wave in or crawled over the reef for home. Bobby’s hanging in there, painting the way any serious shooter does, grabbing a split second of this or that, or it doesn’t matter. Just put it onto the card and gage it against all the other earlier shots tonight after dinner. Editing time. The sun’s now gone, a second afterglow smoking across the horizon and he’s still sitting, in position on the dry reef, looking around. It’s as though he’s gauging his reason to bail from here by what’s around him, or who’s not around him. NO ONE. Just a few by the head of the walkway, the odd couple or a dog walker or someone like big Mike getting out of the water super late and headed up for home. That’s Bobby’s signal to pack it up and shuffle his way back past the dog walker.Time to walk down to the highway for home and dinner. It’s a wrap, Every other camera’s downloaded from all the early afternoon action in child proof, safely packaged lighting. Blues are blue, speeds are up at 2000th and the sky was bright. For Bobby, it’s a shallow depth of field, dark shadows blending in with inky blue-to black images - the total opposite of perfect contrast and color balance. Right now you can’t even see your hand in front of your face, but If you go up to him and ask how he thinks he did he’ll crack that half smile and just answer “Ohhh, I think I got a few tonight, after everyone left…”

Photo Brian Bielmann


Flynn Novak


Waianae Gang

The Early Days

Going way back in time to the late 60s, there was no internet, there was no social media, and there weren't that many families back then taking their kids to the beach and shooting Super 8 of them. Let alone, still photos from the water with a really specialized camera like the Nikonos. But, luckily from the get go, when we first started surfing in 1966 - 1967, my dad started taking photos of us in a way that was really memorable. And, to have your dad out in the water, swimming around with you, shooting photos back then was really special. From that point on, going forward into my high school years in the mid-70s, I really got into photography, taking General Photography 101 in high school, and I was always around surf photography. Later on, around 1975, we all started hanging out at Bernie Baker's old house when it was right on the beach at Sunset. It used to be nicknamed The Embassy because everybody showed up there. You had photographers showing up from California, or from Australia, and of course you had Bernie Baker himself. So, I was always around those guys, seeing them set up their equipment. It was always in my peripheral, since I had camera equipment of my own. I was always observant of what they were doing.

Bobby, 1969

Gary and Chris, 1976

Dad with Nikonos


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Thatcher Johnson

Everything was manual focused back then. And, I really have a lot of respect for those guys, because they had to compose the photo, they had to have really good timing, they're multitasking, and they're manually focusing as a surfer is moving along their focal plane. If you could do that back then and get sharp photos and, and have them published in a surfing magazine, you were one of a handful of guys that really had that talent. I guess maybe the surfing equivalent of that could be if you surfed large waves, pre-leash, and you had to swim in for your board at Sunset, and it kind of taught you a lot of things about sunset. Autofocus opened up a lot of doors for people, but probably more than anything, it made their keeper rate really high. Just like when the leash came about, it made things easier.

kind of had a working knowledge of the equipment because we were using it on ourselves. We already knew our way around a camera during that time, going into 1975- 1976.

Capturing the Moment

I started competing and traveling in 1976, that was the first year there was an organized pro tour. Randy Rarick got everybody here from Hawaii organized and we all went down to Bells Beach for the inaugural contest that year. I landed in Sydney and stayed with Steve Jones, a surfer about my age at the time. And, then Mark Warren who lived up in Avoca, which was just a little ways North came down and picked us all up. He had a van and we drove from Sydney down to Bell's Beach, which is an all-night drive. I had brought my camera over from Hawaii, with maybe one or two lenses. And, Bells had really good surf that year. Jeff Hackman won the event and I just documented my trip. That was the beginning, after that point, my camera was pretty much with me everywhere. I always felt that something special was going on, and I just knew that these were occasions that I should document. It would help me remember my career. And, I was pretty fortunate that I started doing that from day one.

I was learning about photography, in high school, my dad bought me a Nikkormat, which was one of Nikon's less-expensive cameras. It was more of a basic camera, but a perfect camera to learn photography. It's the old match needle style exposure metering. A really durable camera, that was like combat ready. And, our program was, you go surfing with your high school friends, which for me was generally Mark Foo and Chris Gardner, we're all in one car, and we used to take turns shooting pictures of each other at Rocky Point and Off the Wall. That's kind of, kind of how it began. We 20



Daniel Jones

Following the Light

That was my first pro contest and I placed seventh between Mark Warren and Reno Abellira. And, I just didn't expect that. I thought if I made it through a couple of the elimination rounds, I would be doing pretty good and to have finished seventh in that contest, I called home and everybody was really excited. So, that first contest was sort of an indicator to my parents that he's kind of proved himself in the first contest. They looked at it and said, “Okay, Bobby's gonna want to do this. We're going to need to support him in this.” And back then, there was really no money in the sport. You were virtually bankrolled by your parents. They were your sponsors. I got really serious about competition at that time. And, every year we would come back to Australia for that leg of the tour. One of the publications down there was a newspaper surfing publication, called Breakaway. They wanted me to be an affiliate of theirs in Hawai’i. One of the first opportunities I had with them was in the summertime over here when the Hokulea made its first roundtrip to Tahiti and back. The maiden voyage, it was a really huge deal over here. I took all kinds of photos of the Hokule'a as it was coming around Waikiki and into the harbor. Ala Moana was like 4-5ft that day, so I got shots of the surf and the Hokule'a and everybody's standing on it, there were a million boats, it was crazy. I covered that for them and that was probably one of the first things that I ever got published.

I started shooting spots like Rockies quite a lot, and I love the low angle. I love being closer to the water. I think that helps me feel connected to what's going on. What I started noticing was that the position of Rockies in relation to the sun, there was just this really cool stuff going on with the wave in the sky in the background. And, you have a concentration of really good surfers there. And I thought with what the cameras are capable of now, and taking what I've learned as a surfer, I'm able to track guys and intuitively know what they're going to do on a wave. I just found it starting to work in my favor. And I started getting these kinds of results that I thought, “Wow, that's really cool. That's, something I haven't really seen”. And it's really fun to do, I'm really getting a kick out of doing it and at the same time getting to know the surfers and they're just really good. These kids are fun to be around and you get to know their parents and people in the community. But, I think just being able to combine my talents as a surfer with what the camera can do has allowed me to develop a look and I'm just kind of honing my craft over the last couple of years. I really enjoy shooting surf photos and I like shooting close up and tight because I really feel it pushes the camera. It pushes the autofocusing, it will really challenge the camera as far as the auto-focus tracking, to do the best that it's capable of doing. From my end, it's hard to do because


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Luke Swanson

keeping a guide that's moving along, the focal plane in the center is hard to do. That was something that challenged me. And, I like to put a lot of light on the subject and a lot of color on it. There's just all this contrast. So to me, getting the results back from that, it's very rewarding. It's funny, I bumped into a photographer a while back and he goes, “Yeah, we used to do that back in the 90s, the surfing magazines for a while had all the photographers shooting really tight. All the action photos were just up with the surfer and their colorful wetsuits.” And, in a way, I'm kind of doing a modern day version of that, but with a different lighting situation. But, I love pushing the camera hard and seeing what it can do.


Keanu Asing

Tropicamo

Makaha


Maui Gold

There are few greater joys in surfing than scoring a super-fickle wave. Late this winter, some of Maui’s most respected chargers got to enjoy such an experience, albeit sprinkled with a healthy dash of terror, as this sleeping beauty of wave is equal parts beast. When a rare plus-size [Swell Direction Redacted] swell was greeted with favorable conditions, bringing this Valley Isle death slab to life. The Maui super crew of Matt Meola, Kai Barger, Albee Layer, and friends we’re required to bring nothing short of their A-Game to tackle this elusive monster. On hand was Maui shooter Dayanidhi Das, equally stoked to capture the historic day in photos. Das talked us through some of the day's heavier moments.

Story and photos: Dayanidhi Das

“Kai Barger was owning the lineup this day, unleashing a barrelriding masterclass. On his paddle back out after getting spit out of his fifth slab of the session, a psycho 12-footer shows face, he passes me and says, "I gotta get one of those!” Back in the lineup one of "those" shows up, and Barger throws himself over the edge on a 12ft bomb, 100% committed to sticking the landing as he free falls, with his board wiggling like a paper airplane on an impossible drop. Madman legend.”

“First set of the day appears, a solid 12-13 footer, Matt Meola fully commits, barely makes an insane drop, and is spat screaming! He chills on the ski, reliving what just happened with the face of a child at Christmas with hundreds of presents sitting under the tree. As Matt said "that was the wave of my life" and he was done. He fully accomplished everything he wanted to do out there and more on that wave, and he went in to drink a beer and reflect.”



Albee Layer

Matt Meola

“Photographing “The Slab” with the boys is a full circle of energized success,” comments Maui photographer Dayanidhi Das. “It's a very family vibe out there, grass roots, very raw, and a feeling of - only a few dare tread here. We're all both terrified and thrilled, yelling at each other to go, and immediately hoping you make it! I have been shooting with these guys for so many years, they are all so talented, but when it comes to this slab it’s more of an authentic feeling, it speaks to the core of each person.”


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SARAH LEE Big Island, Hawai’i

“I see the process of making photos as a collaboration between myself and the person I am photographing. Cliff Kapono [Pictured] is someone who I’ve recently enjoyed photographing and collaborating with over these past few years. It’s easy to coin him as the surfer + scientist but what’s equally inspiring about him is his strong sense of place, his deep connection to Hawaiian culture, and his knack for combining and sharing his roots, passions and interests through various forms of storytelling.” - Sarah Lee 30


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Photo Issue Editor’s Picks

It’s no mystery that Hawai’i is a long-established mecca for surf photography. With its pristine waters, dynamic geography, and an abundance of the world's best waves and surfers. This magic combination of elements has inspired photographers to dedicate their careers to shooting surfing in the islands for ages. One such devotee is FreeSurf’s own photo editor and master lensman Brian Bielmann. Bielmann has spent 40 years capturing epic moments on the North Shore, throughout the state, and beyond. So, it is awesome to have someone with Bielmann’s pedigree pick some of his favorite photographers for this special Photo Issue.

Cliff Kapono



SARAH LEE Big Island, Hawai’i

“At this moment, I’m inspired as a photographer by being out in the world, facing real experiences and having real human connections offline - anything in the water with people! There is something magical and challenging about being in a massive body of water with constant changes in lighting, water clarity, currents, surf, etc. I love water photography because it’s dynamic, ever-changing, physically demanding, and a place where you have to be completely tuned into the present moment.” - Sarah Lee

Dusk, Maldives

Kirra Seale


S H A N E G R AC E North Shore, Oahu “Shane is one of the best overall photographers in the industry, great from the water, great on land, and great at lifestyle shots. And, he’s the kind of guy that can shoot anything, no matter what he will get the job done. He brings a youthful outlook on life, and a fresh perspective to surf photography.” - Brian Bielmann

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Asked if there is a particular place he enjoys to shoot, Shane Grace responded, “Hollow waves from the water, ideally without a ripping current haha. Could be anywhere.” This incredible image of Eli Olson at Pipeline seems like a good example of what he’s talking about.


36


Keala Kennelly, Waimea Bay

S H A N E G R AC E North Shore, Oahu

“Style is an interesting thing, I don’t know if I have a description for my own, I just try to be there for interesting moments and document them. I set out to capture good waves, and people, in good light. A fleeting moment to look back on and appreciate in its entirety.” - Shane Grace


“You’re never done learning, the ocean is never the same, and it’s another reason to get in the water more.” - Shane Grace

S H A N E G R AC E North Shore, Oahu

Josh Moniz, Backdoor


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TA I VA N DY K E Maui + North Shore, Oahu “This guy has been a world class surfer for years. He’s been surfing for Volcom forever and decided to start shooting for fun and got the photo bug. Now, he's doing international ads and covers around the world. I've shot him surfing for years and this dude throws buckets of spray on his turns and he’s one of my all time favorite guys. Tai does it all and for the right reasons.” - Brian Bielmann

Nathan Florence

“Someone let me try their camera gear and it was really fun. I got some cool photos of my friends, and it was nice to be in the water on the other side of the lens, where you’re not trying to be ‘The Guy’ catching every wave and being all aggressive and stuff. It put a different perspective on surfing for me. Also, shooting empty waves on those solo missions is really self soothing. Hard to really put into words. A form of meditation maybe.” Tai Van Dyke


Zeke Lau, Oahu

TA I VA N DY K E Maui + North Shore, Oahu

“My biggest challenge creatively would probably be deciding whether to surf or shoot photos when the waves are good. But, there are so many different styles and angles to get it’s a constant learning experience - it keeps drawing me back. I’m trying to capture the action and moments of riders in the beauty that surrounds us every day.” - Tai Van Dyke

Jackson Bunch, Maui

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C H R I S TA F U N K North Shore, Oahu “She’s a badass and just as friendly as they come. An amazing photographer, by far the best woman swimming out in heavy surf, she stays out ALL DAY. Just an incredible swimmer and will be out from sunup till sundown. How can you do that?? And, Her images maintain a feminine touch, even those that are taken in the heaviest situations.” - Brian Bielmann


Mikey O’Shaughnessy, Kaeo Abby, Gavin Sutherland, Ikaika Kalama. Waimea Bay “When you shoot in the same areas and the same subject matter, it can get repetitive if you let it. I try to find little nuances that make my shots different. Also, shooting outside of surfing has helped me develop ideas that I can take into surf shots and vice versa.” - Christa Funk


Hank Gaskell

“I don’t think my photos would have been seen initially without social media. I started with no

C H R I S TA F U N K North Shore, Oahu

ties or connections within the surf community and it’s difficult to get into that niche. Social media gave me a platform to share my work. That being said, I prefer seeing photos printed, whether in a magazine or a gallery. Seeing a tiny screen shot of a photo doesn’t do justice compared to a version you can hold in your hands or see on a wall.” - Christa Funk

Michael and Derek Ho, Pipeline


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“Frankly, I think I’m addicted. If I don’t shoot enough, I get antsy. There’s always that next photo or assignment pulling me forward to keep working. There’s the potential that I could create something spectacular. That draws me in again and again.” - Christa Funk

C H R I S TA F U N K

Keala Kennelly, Pipeline


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TOMMY PIERUCKI Waikiki, Oahu “Tommy has come up with a fresh perspective on shooting in town, one of the most photographed places in surfing, and somehow he’s able to put a new spin on it. He hasn’t even been shooting for too long and yet I'd have to say some of my favorite photos of Waikiki are his. want to jump in the water. Just simple and fresh.” - Brian Bielmann

Waikīkī

His imagery makes you


Avalon Gall


“There's a lot of people I truly enjoy shooting when they're surfing, but I would say Toots would be among my favorites. Toots looks like a statue when he's on a wave. He's so stoic and really enjoys the classic moves of the earlier days of longboarding. His abilities on a longboard at Queens are quite the sight.” - Tommy Pierucki


Arthur “Toots” Anchinges, Waikiki

“Nose rides, drop knee turns, steezy trims, switch stance goodness, and the graceful cross steps. To my eye, there's so much beauty in longboarding. It's so poetic to watch someone with effortless style and talent on a wave that they appear to be dancing and to be part of the wave.” - Tommy Pierucki


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“I love photographing sharks. They have their own personality, and are so unpredictable, beautiful, and exciting. They truly are earth's ultimate muse.” - Mike Coots


Waimea Bay

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“Coots took what could have been a career ending situation, the loss of his leg in a shark attack, and has turned around and become a devoted shark advocate and is one of those people who’s soul shines through in all of his work. Some of the most unique photography ever, between his underwater shots of sharks, to his helicopter angles from Waimea, he just knows the best angles and comes up with such iconic images.” - Brian Bielmann



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I N D USTRY NOTES 2021 WSL TOUR SCHEDULE ANNOUNCED

Carissa Moore Photo Matt Dunbar/World Surf League via Getty Images

Good news for surf fans: the WSL live events are back with a newly improved schedule, which includes bringing Mexico returning to the circuit after a 15-year hiatus with a WCT event in Barra de la Cruz, Oaxaca, along with welcoming the ladies to the infamous Teahupo’o, Tahiti for the first time ever! Other notable stops include California’s most rippable wave at Lower Trestles in addition to an event in Slater’s dream-pool Surf Ranch. Shiseido Maui Pro, Honolua Bay, Maui, Hawaii: November 25 December 5, 2020 (Women’s) Billabong Pipe Masters, Oahu, Hawaii: December 8 - 20, 2020 (Men’s) MEO Pro Peniche, Portugal: February 18 - 28, 2021 Corona Open Gold Coast presented by Billabong: Queensland, Australia, March 18 - 28, 2021 Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach: Victoria, Australia, April 1 - 11, 2021 Margaret River Pro: Western Australia, Australia, April 16 - 26, 2021 Oi Rio Pro presented by Corona: Saquarema, Brasil, May 20 - 29, 2021 Surf Ranch Pro: California, USA, June 10 - 13, 2021

CARISSA MOORE LANDS HUGE AIR REVERSE IN NEWCASTLE The Hawaiian WCT surfer returned to competition this April at the Rip Curl Newcastle Cup presented by Corona, launching women’s surfing to the Moon with a massive air reverse which scored a 9.9 (and should have been a 10)!

Corona Open J-Bay: South Africa, July 7 - 19, 2021

“I’m trying to be more innovative and push maneuvers above the lip. [Airs] are something I’d like to bring into my heats more and hopefully at the Olympics,” Carissa Moore told the WSL after landing the historic maneuver.

Outerknown Tahiti Pro: Teahupo’o, Tahiti, August 26 - September 6, 2021

REEF PRESENTS: TRIPTYCH

Quiksilver Pro G-Land: Indonesia, June 20 - 29, 2021

The WSL Finals: Location TBD, September 8 - 16, 2021

TOP 12 RIDES OF THE YEAR ANNOUNCED BY O’NEILL WAVE OF THE WINTER Surfline has announced the Top 12 Finalists in the highly competitive O’Neill Wave of the Winter video contest. For obvious reasons, John John Florence and Koa Rothman lead the pack with two mind-bending entries each (from the Outer Reef and Backdoor Pipe), two solid entries from Griffin Colapinto threading the tube at Pipe, along with the usual suspects spiced into the mix from some memorable sessions on the North Shore, such as: Mark Healey, Flynn Novak, Barron Mamiya, Seth Moniz, Landon McNamara, and Cam Richards.

Twenty years ago REEF began a partnership with one of the most beloved, dominant and influential surfers of all time… follow us over the next few weeks as we celebrate and take you through a visual journey of Mick Fanning with never before seen footage from his surfing vault. REEF is honored to extend this amazing relationship with Mick Fanning into the next decade.


Team rider: Keii Photo: Pedro Gomes

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STUFF WE LIKE VANS X TUDOR The Joel + Tosh Tudor Collection features vintage prints and retro designs in a collaboration that bridges generations through its aesthetic, materials, and the riders who influenced it.

T & C SURF Grom’s Gone Wild T & C Surf is hosting a 23rd annual 2021 virtual grom contest wi th $20,000 in prizes. This online virtual event takes place June 7th- July 31st and is limited to the first 250 groms. For registration and info visit events.tcsurf.com

Marked by its vintage prints, retro lettering and classic style, the Vans x Tudor Collection reflects the aesthetic of Joel Tudor, a Vans team rider for almost 25 years, and his 14-year-old son Tosh. Whether they’re logging at Cardiff Reef in the summer or charging Pipeline in the winter, the two can often be found surfing together, their flowing and casual styles almost indistinguishable at times. The Vans x Tudor Collection captures their lifestyle, combining a retro San Diego color palette with classic Hawaiian vibes. vans.com

SALTY CREW Catch & Recycle

Hi-Tech Hi-Tech Surf Sports have collaborated with Slow Tide to make a full-size lightweight travel towel that is built 100% from recycled post consumer waste (mostly plastic bottles). The "Support Your Local Surf Shop" towel has been a hit with locals during the pandemic. surfmaui.com + Men's performance boardshorts + Repreve® recycled performance fibers + 4-way stretch dobby, quick-dry fabric with DWR finish + 19" outseam + Performance fit with Hollywood waistband + Contoured S-Hook side seams with no inseams + 93% recycled polyester / 7% elastane salty-crew.com

STORM BLADE Storm Blade is releasing an all new modular fin system in the Storm Blade 2021 line. The newest Storm Blade boards feature slot box fin systems creating an easier way to switch out fin types for different performance styles. A larger 9 in. OA slot box at the rear can facilitate a single fin for speed and drive. Couple the single fin with a pair of 2 in. bonzer sides (included) or stay with the classic 3x 4.5 performance set for maneuverability (not included). Graphic EBS textured deck and high density slick bottom round out this new modular upgrade from the classic shape. shop.agit-global.com

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L A S T

L O O K

"That day will be one that I will never forget," recalls photographer Ryan Moss. "There was so much energy in the water, and it was to be the first time I ventured out to Oahu’s outer reefs. On XL or XXL swells I tend to favor heading over to Maui, but for some reason I stayed put here on Oahu. That day I was on the back of a ski with Mark Healey and Mikey Bruneau. It was absolutely gorgeous that morning. The conditions were pristine and the swell had already arrived, awakening Oahu’s outer reefs. Koa Rothman and an all-star cast were there, throwing themselves over the ledge. I believe Koa straightened out on the wave prior to this one. I was just lucky to be in the right place at the right time for this incredible wave. More than anything really, I remember Koa wearing the biggest smile after that wave. Definitely a memorable day for the big wave community." Koa Rothman, Outer Reef. Photo - Ryan Moss




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