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When rainbow colors surround you high and low, you must be sitting in a pot of gold. Photo Brent Bielmann, Indonesia
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TA B L E
Photo Daniel Russo, Tahiti
O F
C O N T E N T S
10
Free Parking
16
Editor's Note
14
The Places I've Been
24
Who's Ready for a Surf Trip
28
The Bourgeois Barrel Hunters
40
Aperture
62
Industry Notes
64
Stuff We Like
66
Last Look
Photo: Joli, Tavarua.
E D I T O R ' S
N O T E
Out There By Andrew Oliver
Sometimes you don’t realize how much you cherish something until it is taken away. Surfers have always been nomadic by nature. It is in our DNA to seek out unridden perfection, as the thrill of surfing a new wave cannot be replicated. There have obviously been much graver losses in this global pandemic than the halting of surf travel. But, it is the pleasures in life, whichever they may be, that keep us going. It has been a stressful time for everyone, and we could all use a break. In the grand scheme of things, yes, a surf trip is about as frivolous as it gets, but we yearn for a time where such frivolity is possible. International surf travel may not be in the cards for everyone, just yet. And, if it is, we implore you to be well informed and deeply respectful of any community you choose to visit. Pay it forward to your fellow surfers who’d like to hit the road in the future. But, adventure doesn’t require multi-day travel across the globe. We all have areas and means to explore in our own backyard. Whether it's a break we haven’t surfed, equipment we haven’t tested, or a coast we haven’t explored. It is a matter of zooming in on the map and letting the details emerge. Along the way, you may stumble upon a new favorite board, make new friends, or unveil a hidden gem of a wave. Anything is possible. And, luckily we’re armed with the greatest tool for adventure ever invented - a surfboard.
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Clockwise from top-left; Nicaragua, Mexico, Tahiti, Sri Lanka
' Been The Places Ive Story and photos by Daniel Russo
T
here are few sets of eyes in surfing that have witnessed as many extreme and iconic moments as those of North Shore based photographer Daniel Russo. Luckily for us, for a majority of those moments there's been a camera in front of Russo’s eyes preserving these iconic images for all of us to enjoy. He's most well-known for his fearless work in the water, capturing mind-bending action in both photo and digital cinema. Russo has also accumulated an incredible library of moments on land, as he explained, “These are just a few candid film moments from different trips along the journey. A lot of the photos were taken on a Yashica T4 point-and-shoot film camera with Velvia slide film.” FreeSurf was stoked to get a small sampling of this work, showcasing a whole other side to one of the best photographers in surfing. -Andrew Oliver
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W W W. R A I N B O W S A N D A L S . C O M
This is Nathan Fletcher in Fiji. We had arrived for a swell the day before, or a couple of days before maybe. And, we were sharing a room with two little single beds. Nate kind of had the majority of the room occupied with boards and whatnot. And, here he's scribbling some endorsement logos on his board.
These were taken many years ago on one of my first trips for Surfing Magazine [RIP], up to Gnaraloo in Northwest Australia. There is a lineup shot of, Gnaraloo the main wave, the left. And, the right is another really beautiful wave, in the vicinity of the area. Just a beautiful slabby wave. It’s a fickle spot, one of those places that needs just the swell, tied in with all other elements. The sunset photo is of Tamayo Perry. I can't quite remember who the other person was, but just a little sunset walk to go check the waves, and have a beer.
Dane Gudauskas sitting on the boat, waxing up, checking the waves, that really classic Teahupo'o morning shot from the channel. Being super fortunate to be on the boat, checking the waves, getting the gear ready and then seeing most likely it was one of the local boys on one of the early sets of the day.
Dylan Graves, Wade Goodall, and Dane Gudauskas on a little treasure hunt during a Caribbean hurricane swell chase.
I scaled up these rocks to look down and give perspective of this bay in Sri Lanka, that's Kyle Thiermann, from Santa Cruz, doing a turn. I think this was one of Kyle’s first trips working on an environmental project in this area, and that eventually turned into Kyle's career path, which is rad!
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Who’s Ready For a Surf Trip? As the world reopens to tourism, is it finally time to go on a much-needed surf trip? We asked travel expert Sean Walker to give us the latest scoop. Words by Shannon Reporting Island fever is real. The past 18 months of pandemic life in the “new normal” have taught us a thing or two about appreciating these magical islands, isolated smack dab in the middle of the North Pacific. Many locals stayed home, waiting out the rapidly changing landscape of travel and non-essential tourism. Lucky for Hawai’i surfers, we had an all-time winter with consistent big wave swell events, but as we transition to summer flat spells--and international borders start to relax travel restrictions--could it finally be time to dust off the passport? International travel is complex in a post-COVID era, so we reached out to surf travel expert Sean Walker at World Surfaris to narrow down some potential destinations within reach. Be sure to check local travel restrictions before booking, as it’s subject to change.
How did you become a surf travel expert, anyhow? Sean Walker: I was a competitive surfer in the NSSA, surfing in the same age range as Andy Irons and that crew. Then I went to college at UCSB and competed in the college series and won a National Title for the team in 2001. When I was in school, I got hungry for good waves and started traveling to Indonesia and the Indian Ocean. I met two different owners of travel agencies and ended up on a boat trip with them, picking their brains on surf travel in general. When I came back for my last year of school, I started working for Wave Hunters and have been going on surf trips ever since. In 2007, I branched off to start the US franchise for World Surfaris, which is an Australian company. Sounds like Indonesia gave you the travel bug!
We heard some stories of surfers who got stuck in Indonesia for months on end, in Nias and Bali. Most tourists were trying to get out last April or May whenever they could, but then they opened back up. After that, the first pack of tourists were getting vibed by the locals, including Kelly Slater, because they were getting in through some sort of loop-hole. There were a handful of pros there through September and October.
That trip to Indo sparked my love for travel. I got to do a Mentawais boat trip, a week at Reunion Island, and then a week in Durban, South Africa. I came back to Bali for a week in G-Land in 1999. Those spots really increased my love for surfing. Are there still spots in Indo to surf with just your buddies? In the Indian Ocean in general, there are definitely outposts that are less crowded. It’s really about getting to more remote surf camps or resorts, or boat charters. Most people go to Bali and use that as a stepping stone to go to more remote areas; that’s where there’s the easiest access for travel in and out. Indonesia has a lot to offer, but the current travel restrictions [due to COVID-19] are not as easy as some other places.
Sounds like the local vibe was heavy. Any alternative destinations for Hawai’i surfers this summer? Well, if Hawai’i surfers go on a trip, they are always looking for something better than they have at home. You’re not going to leave Hawai’i for some bad beach break; it’s all about the point breaks and good reef breaks. The Maldives has been one of the few places that’s been open since last August, you just need
Were traveling surfers stuck in uncrowded Indo when they shut the borders?
The perfection of Lagundri, Nias 24
a negative COVID-19 test while traveling both ways. When the season started again in March, we planned two full boat trips and we scored. Australians couldn’t travel yet, so the crowd in the Maldives was lighter than they’ve ever been. So if you can get to the Maldives, it’s the least crowded it’s been in decades. Yes, I’d say so, for sure the least crowded I’ve seen it in the last five years. The main two options we have at World Surfaris are land-based or boat charter. The main resort we work with is called Hudhuranfushi and it’s got a great left-hander on the island. They run you by boat on short trips to other waves in the area. The second option is a boat charter, where you go to a more remote region of the Maldives, either the Central Atolls or the Outer Atolls, also called the Southern Atolls. Those charters are generally about ten days in length and run
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Maldives Telo Islands - Sumatra throughout the year, with the surf season being March through October. Where else can a US passport get you these days? Tahiti recently reopened to vaccinated travelers [*Editor’s Note: Check updated travel restrictions before booking.] Mexico has been open since last summer without a COVID-19 test to enter. Puerto Escondido and Huatulco were firing for that series of south swells a few weeks ago; it sounded like the trip was fairly easy and getting access to COVID-19 tests to return home was fairly easy.
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As for Central America, I believe El Salvador is open with negative tests; Costa Rica and Panama are all open with negative tests, but Costa Rica has an extra travel insurance that you have to buy covering the chance of you getting COVID-19 while in the country. Nicaragua is also open but there are some extra hoops you need to jump through to get the permission before you enter the country. Beyond that, I believe Morocco is open and the rumor is that Europe will open up to vaccinated travelers sometime this summer. Various Airlines seem to be making it easier to book with flexibility, in case a border shuts down before departure. Yes, as of this year, with some of the packages we’ve been able to negotiate better situations
to reserve with more flexible policies. We’ve been able to extend credit to the following year in case of cancelations, and we understand if someone is scared or uncomfortable traveling. The airlines all have different rules, but for the most part they have new policies on non-refundable tickets, being more flexible on having no change fees and holding credit for further than just one year which was the standard practice. Are particular airlines more surfer-friendly when thinking about board bags? There are definitely a handful of airlines that fit that category, such as: Singapore Air, Qatar Air, Emirates Air, Virgin Airways… There are quite a few of them that allow surfboards as regular checked bags. A few years ago, United Airlines started letting you travel with surfboards for free as your first checked bag if you were flying in or out of California. That started around the same time that CA announced surfing as their state sport (even though it should be Hawai’i). This new surfboard policy triggered a bunch of other airlines to jump on board. Delta, Alaska Airlines, and American have all changed their policies with surfboards; they don’t charge extra anymore. Delta may limit you to one or two boards per bag. Be sure to visit worldsurfaris.com to arrange your next trip.
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The Bourgeois Barrel Hunters
How 10 Working Class Heroes Missioned To Indo During the Pandemic By Daniel Ikaika Ito
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hen non-essential travel came to a screeching halt in 2020 that didn’t stop a group of 10 Hawai‘i residents from another surf trip of a lifetime. These working-class surfers scored fun to epic waves on an Indonesian boat trip in 2019, and were planning to hit up Indo again the year after. Then the global pandemic happened, and the novel coronavirus pressed pause on those plans. The boys rallied though. Despite the challenges of furloughs, jobs, businesses, wives and kids this crew of blue-collar buddies in their 30s-40s made a boat trip in the Mentawais a reality in 2021. They’re all advanced surfers that know how to get properly shacked and won’t blow a set wave when it comes to them. This is not a story about pro surfers – or even semi pro surfers – and how their sponsors or a production company helped get a crew past travel restrictions. Rather, this is a story about 10 members of the working class that made their dream boat trip happen. Three of them have careers in information technology. One is a culinary artist at Noe at the Four Seasons Ko Olina, and another is an artist and co-director of a mural festival. There is a Honolulu City and County lifeguard in this crew as well as a sales rep for Sambazon. One braddah is a plumber, and another is one contractor. The leader of this brigade of bourgeois barrel hunters is a tree-trimmer for the City and County of Honolulu.
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Jeff Kakinami
Cully Chestnut
"Everybody gets along so well. We all bring something unique to the atmosphere of the trip and we don’t butt heads," says Dan House, who has traveled with this crew on two trips. "It’s a deep connection amongst friends. Some giant surf brand isn’t paying our way. We are all busting our butts at work and pinching pennies to make this trip happen. We are choosing to go on an adventure with one another and doing whatever it takes to make it happen."
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trip like this during a time like now takes a special person to navigate a Mentawai’s mission, and Damien Strand is the Nainoa Thompson of this crew. Strand is a 38-year-old, regular foot from Palolo Valley who has forearms like Popeye from a career as an arborist, a killer voice honed at Karaoke Hut and a style of power surfing similar to Pancho Sulivan. His surfing is surprisingly light-footed in small waves at Diamond Head, but it thrives when Strand can put his board on rail in waves of consequence. He is a charismatic extrovert that does not have any kids of his own, but he compares wrangling nine of his friends to get on a surf trip to parenthood. “Getting nine of the boys on a Mentawai surf trip is like managing nine toddlers that have money,” laughs Strand. “The whole inspiration of the trip was to go to a far, isolated place, and have the adventure of a lifetime with some of your best friends.” This wasn’t Strand’s first rodeo though. He has been on an Indo boat trip three times and was also mentored by his older friend, Parker, who is a crane operator that goes on a boat trip twice a year. Furthermore, Strand is a tough guy that has been catapulted out of a 40-foot Banyan tree at work and shattered his right leg below his knee a month before his first trip to the Mentawais years ago. That is the kind of grit and experience he brings to this crew as their fearless leader. He’s not going to fold when you have to wire a massive amount of money to an address in Indonesia and your bank at home is looking at you funny. “When I wired the money the first time they give you this address and this different information about this random Indonesian bank, you Google the bank, you verify the email address you’re in contact with,” explains Strand. “Then your bank goes to you, ʻuh, where?ʻ and you don’t even know what you’re doing and they’re the bank so you think
TORREY MEISTER O’N E I L L I N C. 2021 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M
ELI OLSON O’N E I L L I N C. 2021 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M | P H OTO G R A P H: B R I A N B I E L M A N N
S H O P T H E H Y P E R F R E A K B O A R D S H O RT AT T H E S E PA RT I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S : H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N
they should know more than you do, but you just talk with people who have done it before and it helped that I personally knew someone who has done this before with the same business in Indonesia.”
F
rom his past experience, Strand knows that this kind of trip takes at least a year of planning in advance. In the case of this voyage, he was on it two years in advance because of the 2020 lockdown. Strand was in constant contact with all of the members in this crew, and suggests open communication, especially when it comes to funds, to get everybody on the same page. On that same note, who you choose to travel with is huge. “The best way to pick a crew in my opinion is to have people you know and trust,” he says. “It doesn’t take much for one bad apple to ruin the trip.” Step 2: Research the Rules and Regulations Although COVID-19 vaccines are rolling in to Hawai‘i like west swells in the winter we’re not out of the woods yet when it comes to the pandemic. Although all 10 of the boys were fully vaccinated there were no clear advantages in regards to getting around Indonesia’s travel restrictions. This crew did extensive research by asking others who had been to Indo as well as the World Wide Web. It definitely played
Brad Kakinami
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in their favor that there are three IT guys that are used to problem solving via the Internet. Jeff Kakinami is one of those three and owns an Information Technology company.
The bulk of that “cost” is in the form of the quarantine when they land in Jakarta. According to Indosurfcrew.com, an eVISA (B211 visa) is a necessity for a foreigner to enter Indonesia. Be aware that by law anyone with a B211 visa is not allowed to work in Indonesia no matter if you’re self-employed or employed by a company, and if you get caught the government will deport and you will be blacklisted. The B211 visa takes 10 days to process and will run you approximately $300 USD. With this you can stay in the country for 60 days and it’s renewable for six months. Since October of last year, the Republic of Indonesia allows a sponsor (company/agent) to apply for a B211 visa on behalf of someone. The eVISA can be processed by a visa agent in Indo, and all you need to provide is a copy of your passport and payment. Your eVISA will be emailed to you in a PDF.
“The biggest hurdle was to figure out if Indonesia was going to let us in and what was that going to cost [...] it basically cost us $1000 more than any other year,” says Kakinami. “Next it was even flights. Are planes flying there? A lot of airlines that usually go there weren’t going.”
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ccording to Kakinami, using a travel agent in Hawai‘i to book the 10 passengers was the key to unlocking the flights. They flew All Nippon Airways from Honolulu to Tokyo, layover, Tokyo to Jakarta and then Jakarta to Padang, which totals to 20 hours of flying. Kakinami has taken four surf trips to the Mentawais in his lifetime, and has noticed an increase in surfers and accommodations every time he goes.
Once you get your eVISA here are the documents you will need to provide to when you land in Indonesia: Valid passport (valid 12 months) Printed eVISA Printed PCR (polymerase chain reaction) negative test result Fit to fly letter from an authority approved by the Republic of Indonesia eHAC app on your phone Fill out / sign health check / statement letter at arrival (consent to self isolate 14 days at home) Health or Travel Insurance covering COVID-19 Return or connecting flight confirmation via itinerary
“The Mentawais have gotten more and more crowded every year and there are land camps now,” he explains.” The first time I went there were no land camps now there is a bunch. Our hope this year with Australia and Brazil being closed and with all of this quarantine stuff is the Mentawais will be like how it used to be with less people and more empty waves.” “Of course COVID is the biggest challenge of going on this trip compared to the trip two years ago,” says Strand. “We wanted to do anything we possibly can to get to the Mentawais because there wasn’t going to be anyone there and there is a lot of cost that comes with that.”
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There is no getting around the five full days of quarantine when you get to Indonesia and the two additional PCR tests (one when you land and one when you’re done with quarantine). All of this works out to roughly an additional $800-$1000 USD for the entire trip. When you arrive to Soekarno–Hatta International Airport in Jakarta you’ll be directed to a bus to the designated quarantine hotel that was approved by the Republic of Indonesia. This crew of the blue-collar buddies were able to pre-book their quarantine hotel accommodations and are traveling with copies of their hotel reservations to show when they land in Jakarta. According to Indosurfcrew.com, “general instructions are that you may not pre-book, however, some people have reported booking at the 5-Star hotels on the list.” So pre-book if can, if no can then hope for the best. In hotel quarantine there is one person per room; hotels and hallways are monitored by closed-circuit television and guards; and you are not to leave your room for the five days. There are exceptions for married couples (travel with your marriage certificate) as well as parents and children for these hotel rooms. Three meals a day are included in the hotel price and are delivered to your room. Once they cleared the five day quarantine it’s a fantasy that becomes a reality.
“It’s a dream come true: you wake up, you surf, you have a chef on the boat that cooks three meals for you, you're fed and there’s cold beers,” says Kakinami. “You’re watching each other get barreled, you’re coming in, talking about it, cheers-ing for 11 days straight with nothing but good vibes!” Budget Airfare:$1300 Boat:$3000-$4000 Visa: $325 Quarantine:$700 Necessities To Pack A Four-Board quiver in one boardbag: Three shortboards and a step-up Medical supplies/First Aid Kit Books or art project for five days of quarantine Earplugs for sleeping on the boat Sunblock Petroleum jelly Spear gun and diving gear
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Costa Rica Photo Augustin Muno
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Jafet Ramos, Mexico Photo Edwin Morales
Balaram Stack, Costa Rica Photo Brian Bielmann
Jackson Bunch, Mexico Photo Edwin Morales
Ryan Burch, South America Photo Brian Bielmann
Tahiti Photo Ben Thouard
Photo Brian Bielmann
Fiji Photo Brian Bielmann
Josh Moniz, Tahiti. Photo Brian Bielmann
Gold Coast Photo Joli
West Oz Photo Brent Bielmann
Matt Meola, West Oz Photo Brent Bielmann
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Clay Marzo, West Oz Photo Brent Bielmann
Nias Photo Brian Bielmann
Anthony Walsh, Indo. Photo Brian Bielmann
Matt Bromley, Nias
Photo Brian Bielmann
T-Land Photo Joli
Rio Waida, Indo
Photo Pete Freiden
Indonesia Photo Brent Bielmann
Indonesia Photo Brent Bielmann
Brodi Sale, Bali Photo Pete Frieden
Mokulele Surf Team Rider, Kai Martin
Starting April 19, Four non-stops between Hilo and Kahului!
The Best Way to Surf More Hawai'i
Kiron Jabour, Indonesia Photo Brent Bielmann
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I N D USTRY NOTES T & C SURF Grom Contest
Another year, another O’Neill Wave of the Winter done and dusted.
Registration is now open for the first-ever virtual @ tcsurfshop Grom Contest presented by @freesurfmag! Limited to the first 250 groms ages 6-12 in shortboard, longboard and bodyboard divisions, $10 secures your spot with 100% of the proceeds to benefit the Boys and Girls Club of Hawai‘i @ bgch808, who’s partnership has always aligned with T&C Surf’s mission to create greater futures for our youth. Contest runs June 7-July 31 at Queen’s Beach with over $20K in prizes. Competitors will have the summer to film and submit to the judges, with winners announced August 20, 2021. Additional sponsors include: @dakine @rvca @vertra @vans. To sign up, visit: events.tcsurf.com
And if you haven’t heard – or watched the short film yet – Mark Healey won. The longtime charger, venerable waterman, and spearfishing wizard took home the $25,000 grand prize for his Pipeline freight train amidst a field of Outer Reef bombs, Backdoor drainers, and (literally) hundreds of other entries. But, as with every year, there can be only one winner. And the panel of judges – including Gerry Lopez, Shane Dorian, Pancho Sullivan and Shawn Briley – chose Healey. Most shocked at the announcement, was Healey himself. “Shut up!” he said, when Gerry broke the news via FaceTime. “No way! How did I win this? I did not expect this. Wow, it’s such an honor.”
Surfrider: Oahu Chapter The Surfrider Foundation mission is to protect and enjoy our ocean, waves and beaches, for all people, through a powerful activist network. The Oahu Chapter is one of the most active of the 80 Chapters across the nation. There are also 100 Youth Clubs in the Surfrider network, with 6 on Oahu. As a volunteer-run organization, they are ocean lovers who work to make positive changes in our community through many programs & campaigns.
Weird Waves is back for Season 3 to discover what's been hiding in our own backyard. With the focus now set closer to home, the crew shifted their clocks to discover what goes down once the streetlamps turn on. Watch Ep. 1: The Nightriders now at youtube.com/vans It's with a heavy heart that Vans announces the passing of our co-founder, Paul Van Doren. Paul founded the Van Doren Rubber Company with his brother Jim, and their partners Gordon Lee & Serge Delia in Anaheim, CA in 1966. Paul was not just an entrepreneur; he was an innovator. The Van Doren Rubber Company was the culmination of a lifetime of experimentation and hard work in the shoe industry. Paul’s bold experiments in product design, distribution and marketing, along with his knack for numbers and efficiency turned a family shoe business into a globally recognized brand. We send our love and strength to the Van Doren family and all the Vans Family members who brought Paul’s legacy to life.
Governor Ige announced new interisland Travel Protocol launching May 11th to allow fully vaccinated residents to fly between the Hawaiian Islands without pre-travel testing or quarantine. Travelers need to register their vaccination cards on the state's Safe Travels platform for a QR code, which then makes for faster and easier airport check-in. Lt. Gov. Josh Green says the eventual goal is to open up the program to trans-Pacific travelers later this summer. Southwest Airlines and non-profit AccesSurf Hawaii announced that they will auction 15 roundtrip airline tickets to benefit adaptive surfing, paddling, and ocean programs in Hawaii to celebrate AccesSurf's 15th Anniversary. The tickets are valid for any roundtrip domestic flight on Southwest through June 2022.
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STUFF WE LIKE GoPro Hero9
More power. More clarity. More stability. The groundbreaking HERO9 Black sports a robust 23.6MP sensor for astonishing 5K video and stunning 20MP photos. A dazzling new front display delivers a live preview for easy framing, while a large rear touch screen with touch zoom provides fast, intuitive control. HERO9 Black boasts a powerful new feature suite, including HindSight, and supports live streaming and Webcam mode as well. Add in HyperSmooth 3.0, built-in mounting and 30% more battery life for more of everything—in a camera that’s tough as nails and waterproof as ever.
World Surfaris
For wherever you dream of surfing, World Surfaris believes in quality over quantity and their surf adventure range is hand-picked. World Surfaris, only represents Surf Resort or Surf Charter operators who have proven to be experts with vast experience and a good track record. World Surfaris staff regularly visits the destinations offered in order to ensure their high standards are being met by tour operators. So you get the best trip possible for the best possible price. World Surfaris stands by the surf adventures represented and can assure you that the surf trip you choose represents the best quality for your money.
Pescavore Tuna that travels Packaged in a convienient, single serving size with no refrigeration required until after openeing, Pescavore is the perfect healthy and delicious snack for those on the go. The tuna is carefully handled for quality, cut into strips, marinated with all natural, glutenfree ingredients and natural wood smoked. Our small batch process maintains flavor, texture, protein, and nutrients, with less residual salt and sugar than traditional jerky, and is proudly made in the USA.
Hammerhead Spearguns
Kaudal Fin Combo Kit Blue/White with Blue Hydrodip HH Go Pro Mask and Amber Lens.
Mokulele Airlines
Island Hop Mokulele Airlines is now offering up to 4 flights a day linking Hilo & Kahului. Mokulele is proud to connect more Hawaiian cities than any other airline!
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SEAN YANO RS-61434 808.386.4487 SEAN@YANOGROUP.COM Compass is a licensed real estate broker and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only.
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