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F UT URE F OR CES v 1 8 # 8

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There are moments in surfing that will stay with you forever. Jackson Bunch, making lasting memories at Pipeline. Photo: Brent Bielmann

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C O N G R AT S O N W I N N I N G T H E

U18 USA SURFING CHAMPIONSHIP

S H I O N C R AW F O R D

O’N E I L L I N C. 2021 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M

TA B L E

O F

C O N T E N T S

Free Parking

Editor's Note

USA Surfing

Luke Swanson

Aperture

Continuity

Groms Invade Volcom House

Industry Notes

Stuff We Like

Last Look

Kai Paula Photo: Ricky Lessler

Makaha Tropicamo Keanu Asing

Photo: Tai Van Dyke

E D I T O R ' S

N O T E

You don’t have to be a grom to appreciate a wave like this. Mananalu Chandler, Backdoor. Photo: Frieden

Wax Nostalgic By Andrew Oliver

When the decades begin to pile up in a surfer’s life, and the complications of adulthood multiply, it's hard not to look back fondly on one’s formative years as a grom. Yearning for the time when we pursued our newfound passion with a freedom and singular focus that is rarely afforded to us later in life. Like old fishing tales, the further time marches on the bigger the waves we caught, the gnarlier the hold-downs we endured, and the deeper the tubes we threaded. In varying degrees we all suffer from manufacturing our own revisionist history. However, there is no exaggeration in the significance of this period of our lives. When surfing becomes synonymous with who we are, and who we are becoming. It’s in these crucial early years, when surfing is forged into the bedrock of our very identity. In this issue we celebrate those who are in their early days of their surfing journey with some of Hawai’i’s best under 18 years old. There is a nagging misconception that youth surfing is plagued with overbearing stage parents. And, while they exist, they are far from the norm. In reality, the vast majority do what so few parents do these days - they let their kids spend mass amounts of time on their own, in nature. Really, is there a group of kids with a comparable amount of freedom in their lives? In the grand scheme of things, obviously it is a great privilege to enjoy such freedom. But, we can all agree that striving to enrich a young person's life is a worthy goal. And, to that end, what better means than immersing oneself in nature? While we highlight some of the young surfers whose talents have garnered worthy attention. We also celebrate the countless groms, and groms at heart, who are taking their early steps down the path of a lifelong surfer without the added fanfare. Because the greatest draw surfing has on us, is it’s ability to delight us with new experiences and sensations. When we get older, it may take additional effort to seek those out, but no matter how many waves - hours, days, or years of actual surfing - we are still in pursuit of new thrills. No matter our age, or ability, we all hold one thing in common, we always remain groms at heart. 14

N E W S

E V E N T S

2021 US Surfing Championships Presented by Toyota and Got Milk?

Searing Performances from the Nations Best Juniors at Pumping Lower Trestles By Mike Latronic

Lower Trestles in all it's glory. Photo Kurt Steinmetz

A name we can all get very accustomed to seeing, Vaihiti Inso took to Lower Trestles with power. speed and solid surfing to capture a 1st place slot in the U14 division. Photo Mike Latronic

The coveted trophy. Photo Kurt Steinmetz

Carver Skateboards came to the part, big time. Photo Kurt Steinmetz

Several hundred of the nation’s top young surfers battled for national titles during the 2021 TOYOTA USA Surfing Championships at one of California's premiere surfing locationsLower Trestles in San Clemente. This event is indeed one of the most highly anticipated events in junior surfing in America, attracting surf industry leaders, media and talent scouts and not to mention, the creme of the crop competitors from all over the country. The under 18 surfers competing, qualified for the event through regional competitions held across Mainland USA and Hawai’i. As surfing makes its Olympic debut, the athletes’ performances were a high energy preview of surfers who could and likely would represent the United States in future Olympic Games and on the WSL Championship Tour. This years competition was held June 21-25 and as luck would have it southerly swells lined up back to back to provide super fun surf in the 3-5 range the entire event. The action was a stark example of top tier performance and after witnessing this week long tournament anyone watching can clearly see the future of American surfing is brighter than ever.

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E V E N T S Betty Lou Sakura is the embodiment of the new school progression in female youth surfing. Strong, explosive and unafraid Betty was by and far doing some of the most dynamic surfing in the women's divisions. Photo: Sean Evans

The level of women's surfing continues to skyrocket and finalist Nora Liotta put forth some of the nicest forehand wraps in the event. Photo: Mike Latronic

Jackson Bunch is no stranger to the winners circle. Taking home a 1st place trophy in 2018 World Jr, Bunch looked in classic form to do a repeat but got stopped early in the semis in this years event. Photo: Mike Latronic

Congratulations!

Shion Crawford Winner 2021 US National Boys U18

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Hawaii’s Ewe Wong fell short of a finals berth, but placed herself on everybody’s radar with snaps like this. Photo: Mike Latronic

Maui's Levi Young showed solid form and commitment to make the final. Photo: Mike Latronic

Aloha with her brother Taj, the Lindblad's were indeed at the top of the pile during this week long tournament. While brother Taj surfed very well he was eliminated just before the finals while sister Sawyer went on to hold up the family name proud by taking the victory in the U18. Photo: Kurt STeinmetz

There was no shortage of expert coaching from a variety of experts. Hawaii’s Rainos Hayes, coach for Brodie Sale speaks volumes. “It's definitely the Superbowl of Surfing for kids here in the USA. With factors like traveling and COVID and things like that, it's a big jump for these kids to be back in the Jersey at this national level. They get a chance to showcase how talented they really are. Photo: Colin McQuade

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VAIHITI!

With great looking boards under his feet, a variety of moves, machine like precision and a tireless work ethic Oahu’s Shion Crawford landed runner up in the Boys U16 final and claimed top spot in the highly coveted U18 division. A well-deserved win and we can be sure to see more from this young man in the future! Photo: Mike Latronic

Lucas Cassity Senkbeil showcased mature and powerful surfing beyond his years to claim victory in the boys U14. Photo: Kurt Steinmetz

Oceanside’s Lucas Owston started his Boys U16 final with a 9.43 for a blistering series of power turns. His performance earned him the Toyota “Drive for Gold” athlete for his relentless drive to learn and improve. Photo: Collin McQuade

Claiming victory in the girls U16 and runner up in the girls U18 Caitlin Simmers staked her position as the top overall performer of the event. Smooth clean surfing was punctuated with a radical and dynamic attack on the long walls and sections of Trestles. Photo: Kurt Steinmetz 22

US CHAMPIONSHIPS TRESTLES 2021 Jackson Bunc h

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Va i h i ti I n so US Champion 2021 U14

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Shion Crawford

Caitlin Simmers Photo: Kurt Steinmetz

Sawyer Lindblad Photos: Kurt Steinmetz

This year surf legend Peter “PT” Townend awarded Girls and Boys U18 champions Sawyer Lindblad and Shion Crawford the Terry McCann memorial trophy and a Murf electric bike. Along with PT and Dick Baker, McCann is responsible for creating Surfing America, the Olympic National Governing Body and organization that would become USA Surfing. Photo: Kurt Steinmetz

2021 US Surfing Championships Results

Hawaii’s Vaihiti Mahana Inso took the Toyota USA Surfing Championship Girls U14 crown after putting on a forehand clinic standing out in the heat of talent. She’s four-time world champion and Olympic surfer Carissa Moore’s protégé and it showed. She surfed a nearly perfect final heat with a 9.77 and 8.77 Boys U12

Girls U18 1st Sawyer Lindblad, San Clemente, Calif. 2nd Caitlin Simmers, Oceanside, Calif. 3rd Alyssa Spencer, Carlsbad, Calif. 4th Nora Liotta, Maui, Hawaii

Girls U14 1st Vaihiti Mahana Inso, Oahu, Hawaii 2nd Kylie Pulcini, Melbourne Beach, Fla. 3rd Avery McDonald, San Clemente, Calif. 4th Mia McLeish, San Clemente, Calif.

Boys U18 1st Shion Crawford, Oahu, Hawaii 2nd Ryan Huckabee, Flagler Beach, Fla. 3rd Brodi Sale, Kailua Kona, Hawaii 4th Levi Young, Maui, Hawaii

Boys U14 1st Lucas Senkbeil Cassity, San Juan Capistrano, Calif. 2nd Rex Hennings, San Clemente, Calif. 3rd Chase Burnes, Paia, Hawaii 4th Charlie Stevens, San Clemente, Calif.

Girls U16 1st Caitlin Simmers, Oceanside, Calif. 2nd Sawyer Lindblad, San Clemente, Calif 3rd Betty Lou Sakura Johnson, Oahu, Hawaii 4th Zoe Benedetto, Palm City, Fla.

Girls U12

Boys U16 1st Lucas Owston, Oceanside Calif. 2nd Shion Crawford, Oahu, Hawaii 3rd Cole McCaffray, Cardiff, Calif. 4th Rylan Beavers, Kilauea, Hawaii

Girls U12 1st Chesney Guinotte, Hawaii 2nd Alana Lopez, Ponce Inlet, Fla. 3rd Kaia Howard, Encinitas, Calif. 4th Kadyn Persidok, Encinitas, Calif. Boys U12 1st Kai Nelson, Maui, Hawaii 2nd Finn McCarty, San Clemente, Calif. 3rd Merrick Mochkatel, Hawaii 4th Brody Price, Soquel, Calif.

Luke Swanson Photo: Brent Bielmann

LUKE

SWANSON A I R A P PA R E N T

THE FREESURF INTERVIEW

By Andrew Oliver

When new faces come onto the scene it’s inevitable that comparisons will be made to well-established talent. While North Shore resident, 16yrs old Luke Swanson, has been turning heads in Hawai’i’s lineups for some time now, it’s safe to say that 2021 was the year that Luke went global. Luke dropped two significant video parts, produced by Rip Curl and Channel Islands respectively, along with being heralded as the World’s Best Junior by 2x World Champion John John Florence in Stab’s peer poll - all during the lockdown of a global pandemic. Coincidentally, it was John John, the surfer who gave him the golden stamp of approval, who was also his main source of comparison. Luke's preternatural ability in the air, and his increasing ease in waves of consequence, follow a similar arc of John John’s rise in the surf world. It should be no surprise that Luke trains in the same hyper-elite camp as John John under the tutelage of super-surfer whisperer Ross Williams. We caught up with Luke to talk about working with Ross and John, dropping breakthrough video parts, and bursting onto the world stage.

In the span of a few years, your career has really taken off. What has this journey been like for you? I've always felt like I've always kind of kept my momentum pretty consistent over the years. I don't feel like there was a one point in time where it kind of took off or slowed down too much. It's always been pretty consistent, definitely there's been certain moments that have just kind of allowed me to thrive in the past years. Signing with Rip Curl for sure was one, and then around the same time I started working with Ross Williams, which has been amazing. We started really working on the fundamentals - simple technique things - from speed generation, to working on my rail game, and just things that I could always be focusing on in my free surfs. Also, balancing it out with heat strategy and contest performance.

All things that sound fairly simple, but are a lot harder to achieve in practice. But, mainly, going out and having a really clear, simple structure to work on. And, I think that's definitely influenced my progression. At the end of 2019, I was able to do the Quiksilver, Young Guns Event in Portugal, and that was a big milestone for me, to win that event. And, I followed up with some wins in a few different regional events here at home. So, that was a pretty big jump forward for me. Let's talk a little more about working with Ross Williams. What an incredible mentor to have. He has all the experience and credibility in his own right. And, he's a really astute and analytical person.

about the way to do something. He's right on track with me. I couldn't do that with anyone else. I feel really lucky to be in this situation for sure. It’s funny, when I was little, I wouldn't even say hi to him. I was so shy and I respected him so much. And then, all of a sudden, he was inviting me to go surfing and I was like, “Okay, this is crazy.” And then eventually he was offering to coach me. And I was like, “Oh my gosh, I'm so down.” Also it's cool that you get to share the experience with Bettylou Sakura Johnson, someone who’s your age, is a friend, but she's not a direct competitor. But, you guys are both in very similar stages in your respective careers, so it must be cool to share that experience with someone who can relate to you?

In the moment, I'm always just head down, I gotta keep working, and never be satisfied. I definitely celebrate all the different little things that come along, but again, I never take too much time to think about it. But, there's definitely been some moments this year where I've just kind of looked back and gone, “Oh my gosh, I can't believe all these different things have happened.” Add to that, he has this long working relationship with John John Florence, who's not only the best surfer in the world, but also another incredibly astute athlete. John John and Ross are really at the pinnacle of performance surfing, and continue to push the boundaries on what's possible. So, without much exaggeration, by working with Ross, you are tapping into one of the most finely tuned surfing minds in the world. 100%. It's crazy. I can't even wrap my head around it sometimes. These two guys are both so amazing at what they do and they feed into each other. Then, here I am, being advised by Ross. I’m third wheel to the best duo in surfing. Haha In all seriousness, Ross is amazing at clearly defining the relationships he has with the different athletes he works with. He's really good at analyzing people. He understands the way I see and analyze things. It's super cool, because instead of having to adjust my entire view of surfing, he's just introducing me to these ideas that he has, and fitting them to my surfing. And, I know he does that with John because you can see everything that John does, since he's worked with Ross, his best things are better, and those things that he wasn't so good at, now, he's excelling extremely well at. Ross is just incredible at working on those little in-between things and without having to change an entire surfer. He's made that really clear for me. I can have these super in-depth conversations with him, and when we speak, we totally have the same terms in our head. They’re the same ideas. I don't have to like to explain myself when I get some weird idea

Getting to work alongside Sakura is super cool because we can progress together and see the way that Ross' coaching influences us and see how we’re progressing as surfers. We're not just on our own, we are in this process together. I get super inspired by the way she surfs and she is such a force in women's surfing in general. Ross has totally maximized that and together they've developed this awesome workflow and she's just constantly getting better. We obviously get competitive, neither of us ever want to lose to each other in our mock heats. But then at the same time, we both are progressing along in our different ways. So we can totally be more chill about the way we work with Ross, and we don't have to be competitive in that aspect at all. We can all work together, as we’re both getting better independently. I'm sure a lot of the attention you’ve garnered, especially beyond Hawai’i, via Stab and all the videos, has a lot to do with the type of surfing you're doing - super technical high-risk aerial surfing. And, the fact that you're doing it here in Hawaii, where the consequence can be pretty gnarly. You're flying out into the flats over really shallow reef, dealing with strong winds and powerful waves. What’s the process like working on those types of maneuvers, in our typical Hawai’i conditions? I grew up skating and so I was really into just going for big airs when I was little in the skate park. Trying to tweak things out and do different technical things. I was always really into showing up, thinking of

something, and then just doing it. Not really thinking about how long it's going to take to land it, but saying, “All right, here's a new trick, I want to do this. Let's see how quickly we can get it done.” Transitioning into surfing, that approach was already there for me. “Let's work on this maneuver, and see if we can get it done really fast.” Then making that move, going on to the next one, and having that steady progression. At the same time, you realize the waves on the North Shore are way more powerful and way more unforgiving than anywhere else. Which can be a bad thing because you could get super injured. On the flipside, there's so much power here. If you get the right section, you can do a bigger air than you could anywhere else. Of course it might be a lot harder to land it, but being able to experience it on a daily basis, you eventually adapt to it. With everything that’s been going on in the world I know you haven’t really had the opportunity to pursue competitive accomplishments. But, it must be pretty amazing to have your hard work rewarded in this other way. And, the public feedback has been pretty remarkable. We are in an age where everyone is constantly putting out their own media, little edits, and the like. But, I think it’s really the dream of any young pro to have a part put out by their sponsor. You have some fairly elite sponsors, what was it like to have them put together these big video projects and really get behind them and promote them worldwide? And, what was it like, getting the incredible response and exposure you’ve received from it?

I grew up skating and so I was really into just going for big airs when I was little in the skate park. Not really thinking about how long it's going to take to land it, but saying, “All right, here's a new trick, I want to do this. Let's see how quickly we can get it done.”

Like I said, it wasn't like all of a sudden I started surfing better. I just felt like I started getting all these super cool opportunities, which was kind of interesting looking back, seeing that it

Luke Swanson Photo: Pete Frieden

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was right when COVID hit that my exposure kind of skyrocketed. It was probably the best spring I've ever had on the North Shore. My dad was so dedicated - haha. At the time, they weren't allowing people to sit on the beach unless you were fishing. So he would drag a fishing pole from home, cast it out in the water, with just a weight on the line. He’d be posted up on the beach with the camera and the cops would roll by, and they would just keep on driving cause he had his fishing pole.

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We went to Rocky Point every afternoon for the entire spring of 2020. And, there were just some incredible sessions. The wind was good, the size of the waves were just perfect, and there was nobody around. So, I just got tons of reps in and I was able to stack a bunch of clips. Some different projects came up with Channel Islands, Rip Curl, and a few of my other sponsors to get the ball rolling on putting out media. And, they were like, “Hey, can we get some of your video and start working on different things?” In the moment, I'm always just head down, I gotta keep working, and never be satisfied. I definitely celebrate all the different little things that come along, but again, I never take too much time to think about it. But, there's definitely been some moments this year where I've just kind of looked back and gone, “Oh my gosh, I can't believe all these different things have happened.” And, I am just tripping out, “Like wow, a lot of people are actually starting to hear about me and I never thought that would be the case.” Because I just didn't really think about it. But, now that it's here, it's a really cool thing. And, I'm really grateful for it. And I just want to make the most out of all those different opportunities of exposure I get. So, to look back and be like, “All right, I guess hard work does pay off and keeping my head down does pay off.” And, that's really cool. That's just inspiration for moving forward.

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A lot of what separates the great surfers from the rest of us is what happens between the flashy maneuvers and deep tubes. It’s positioning in a lineup, wave selection, and a myriad of steps that lead you to explosive moments like this backside blast of Luke Tema. The North Shore is the ultimate training ground to learn these somewhat unseen skills. Some take to it, others don't. Luke is one of the sharper students in the class. Photo: Christa Funk

Of all the surf spots on the North Shore, Hale’iwa stands alone in the way it fosters it’s tight knit community. All of the regulars know each other well, and they take deep pride in celebrating their own. And, with two of the most promising junior talents in the nation calling Ali’i Beach their homespot, the Hale’iwa community is going to have a lot to celebrate for years to come. Shion Crawford (top), Bettylou Sakura Johnson (bottom) Photos: Brian Bielmann

When one of the greatest surfers of all time happens to be your dad, it can be a challenge to break out on your own. It’s safe to say that young Jackson Dorian has made a name for himself. He’s been dropping mind-bending edits for years now with explosive surfing like this. Jackson, with a Keramas sling-shot. Photo: Frieden

There are phenomenal young surfers, who when you watch them, you’ll say to yourself, “Wow! That grom rips.” Qualifying their talent by their stature and age. This past season, Big Island’s Brodi Sale laid waste to any qualifiers placed on his talent. Now, it’s simply, “Wow! Brodi rips.” Brodi at ease on a Backdoor bomb. Photo: Frieden

Leila Riccobuano always brings out the good vibes. Whether it’s on land, in the water, or on the waves, you’d be hard-pressed to find her without a smile on her face. After this sick turn, it’s a safe bet she kicked out grinning ear-to-ear. Photo: Christa Funk

It’s hard to remain underground these days. Nothing stays secret for too long with social media. So, it was inevitable that talent as promising as Maui’s Kai Paula would eventually break through. If you haven’t heard of him yet, may we please introduce Kai Paula of Hana, Maui. We’re sure you’ll be hearing a lot more about him in the years to come. Photos: Ricky Lessler

Erin Brooks has zero respect for the internet - she breaks it on a regular basis. From redefining wave pool surfing, to charging way, way, way beyond her years in the Mentawai’s, Erin is trailblazing a path of her own one viral clip at a time. Photo: Brian Bielmann

The Nature vs. Nurture divide is so apparent in surfing. There are certain things that you’re either born with or without. The South Shore’s Kai Martin has a power and explosiveness in his surfing that just can’t be learned. How much does this shot of him look like Occy? It’s crazy. Kai, channeling one of the greats with a backside power gouge. Photo: Pete Frieden

It can’t be said enough how much talent there is among the young wahine of Hawai’i. Sunset Beach’s Luana Silva (top), and Honolulu’s Vaihiti Inso (bottom), regularly shine the brightest in this crowded field of future stars. Photos: Frieden, Brent Bielmann

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Reigning World Junior Champion, Maui’s Jackson Bunch, is always smooth even in the most radical of positions. This grom has been turning heads for years, and he keeps getting better. Exciting to see what the future holds for him and his generation. Photos: Brent Bielmann

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You’d be smiling too! Robert Grihlo living the life of a grom - while surfing like a man. Here’s Robert flaring it out just past 12 o’clock. Photo: Tony Heff

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Native Hawaiians and surfers share the same mother tongue: ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i (Hawaiian language). The origin of he‘e nalu (wave sliding or surfing) is and will always be Hawai‘i nei. E kala mai iaʻu e Kaliponi a me ‘Aukekulelia (Sorry California and Australia). Itʻs safe to say that the majorityof surfers donʻt or canʻt speak the languge of their kūpuna (ancestors).

According to a 2012 International Surfing Association (ISA) report that was submitted to the International Olympic Committe (IOC), there is an estimated 35 million surfers in the world. The American Community Service report conducted by the U.S. Census Bureau states that there are 18,000 Hawaiian language speakers in Hawai‘i as of 2013. Itʻs highly doubtful that all of those 18,000 people who consider themselves familiar with ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i are wave sliders, but for the sake of arguement letʻs assume they are all surfers – that is still less than 1% of the global surfing community who can speak the mother tongue of surfing.

THE CONTINUITY of SURFING'S MOTHER TONGUE 'Ewe and ‘Oaka Wong Perpetuate Hawaiian Identity In Modern Surfing By Daniel Ikaika Ito Photos Courtesy T&C Surf

efore the Protestant missionaries came to Hawai‘i in 1820, ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i was an oral language. On that mission were Presbyterians, Congregationalists and Dutch Reformists from New England, and they established a standardized, written-form of Hawaiian language for the translation of Paipala Hemolele (Holy Bible). In addition, these kooks from the East Coast of the U.S.A. were firmly against surfing and other forms of Hawaiian arts and culture like hula.

I ka ‘Olelo ke ola, i ka ‘Olelo ka make. (In language there is life, in language there is death). – ‘Olelo No‘eau (Hawaiian Proverb) 48

Itʻs firing in Town and all of the local super groms are converging on Kewalo Basin – the training ground for any young surfer looking to make their mark in the Sport of Kingʻs. Two teenage kanaka maoli kamali‘i wāhine (Native Hawaiian girls) are splitting the peak at the point. They are sisters and are from Wahiawā – an ahupua‘a (land division) widely-known by the Native Hawaiians as the piko (navel) of O‘ahu. The eldest, Ēwe Wong, 16, is a regular foot and is tearing the rights with three-turn combos and finishing the wave with a Tyler Wright-like layback on the closeout section. The younger sister, ʻOaka Wong, 14, is stylishly drifting her fins with every backhand top turn on lefts. The lineup is packed, but the Wong sisters are getting their waves and

ʻOaka Wong

communicate strategy to one another in ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i.

“When we speak Hawaiian the older uncles will give us waves,” explains ‘Oaka.

“We speak Hawaiian a lot in the water because noone knows what weʻre saying,” says Ēwe.

‘Eweʻs coach and Rip Curl Hawai‘i Team Manager Kekoa Bacalso has witnessed first hand how ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i gives the sisters a competitive advantage in the water. Bacalso is also Native Hawaiian and a former World Championship Tour surfer. “It's just pretty funny because you can see them giggling [and speaking Hawaiian] to each other, I call it ʻthe sniper talkʻ because they can maneuver around in a sense by talking Hawaiian out there, but itʻs such a unique thing,” says Bacalso.

In fact, some of the older surfers hearing these bright, young women speaking Hawaiian language are actually giving them waves. Perhaps, itʻs because itʻs just so cool to hear surfingʻs mother tongue used so casually in the lineup today.

‘Oakaʻs coach and Billabong Hawai‘i Team Manager Rainos Hayes echoes Bacalsoʻs sentiments. Hayes sees the Wong sisters and their ‘ōlelo as a bridge between surfingʻs history and present. “[The Wong sisters speaking Hawaiian fluently] is like almost a missing link, you know? That magical connectivity of the actual history of this sport,” he says.

Their fluency in ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i comes from their ‘ohana – Sterling Wong and Lu‘ukia Archer – and the sistersʻ Hawaiian Emersion education at Ke Kula ‘o Samuel M. Kamakau Laboratory Public Charter School. This school in Kane‘ohe teaches a curriculum that is entirley in the Hawaiian Language. Between 1834-1948 there were over 100 different Hawaiian language newspapers being published. Ke Kula ‘o Samuel M. Kamakau continues this publishing tradition with their school newspaper and the Wong sistersʻ extensive contest victories are regularly published in the schoolʻs newspaper.

here is not enough space in this piece to list all of the Wong sisters National Scholastic of Surfing Association (NSSA) regional wins and Hawai‘i Surfing Association (HSA) victories, but both girls were U12 State Champions, ‘Oaka was the U12 USA Surfing Champ and Ēwe was the U12 NSSA National Champion. They also give their victory speeches in ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i by the way.

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Ēwe Wong

He po‘i na kai uli, kai ko‘o, ‘a‘ohe hina pūko‘a. (The sea be deep and rough, the coral rock remains standing.) Ēweʻs favorite ‘Ōlelo No‘eau (Hawaiian Proverb) Although Ēwe is only 16 years old she has already embraced her kuleana to the Native Hawaiian and surfing community. Kanaka maoli, like Ēwe, understand that kuleana is

“I think it's really important to perpetuate our culture, and make it known that surfing is a Native Hawaiian practice, and especially that we ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i (speak Hawaiian) is a big deal for us,” says Ēwe. "I think it's really important to try to get other Native Hawaiians to start surfing like the keiki (kids) [...] especially our little cousins.”

acalso describes Ēwe as a pure surfer who is shy and sweet on land, but can run with the best when she is in the water. To this day, Bacalso is still one of the best power surfers of his generation and he is highly complimentary of Ēweʻs raliwork and says that inside her diminiutive frame there is a competitive animal.

both a “responsibility” as well as a “privelage.” She hopes to inspire the next generation of Native Hawaiian surfers with her performance in the water and her fluency in the Hawaiian language.

“I like the adrenaline that I get from competition,” says Ēwe. “I used to, or still kind of struggle with the mental aspect of competing and slowly overcoming that has been very rewarding, especially at this last contest.”

In addition to that competitive drive, Bacalso also recognized early on that Ēwe displayed leadership qualities. He has been working with Ēwe for the past five years, and Ēweʻs parents have affectionately nicknamed Bacalso the “Ēwe Whisperer.” "To watch the Wong family practice the Hawaiian culture is a breath of fresh air [...] Ēwe is a leader and talks about land developement in Hawai‘i, the need to slow down the construction of buildings in Hawai‘i and she has her hand on a lot of things,” explains Bacalso. “Hawai‘iʻs future is in good hands if we have girls like ‘Oaka and Ēwe leading the charge." ‘A‘ole pau ka ‘ike i ka hālau ho‘okahi. (Youʻre never done learning.) – ‘Oakaʻs favorite ‘Ōlelo No‘eau (Hawaiian Proverb) That Hawaiian proverb is a great insight to ‘Oakaʻs approach to surfing because she is constantly trying to learn how to get better. The Wong sisters have worked with a lot of

Ēwe Wong

Hawaiʻiʻs best surfing coaches throughout their young careers, and itʻs something that ‘Oaka considers an opportunity to level-up her he‘enalu. “Youʻre never done learning,” explains ‘Oaka, “weʻve had a bunch of different coaches and have said different things and have helped us with different parts of our surfing.

urrently, ‘Oaka is working a lot with Rainos Hayes. Hayes is seeing that ‘Oaka is in a transitionary time in her life and surfing as she moves up the ranks. He describes her as a “natural surfer” that is figuring out how to apply her talent to the next level. “I think she's now 14 and kind of coming into a lot of change so she's growing as not only a young competitor, but also as a young woman and as far as being impressed I think that she's kind of like the quiet achiever," says Hayes. “Part of her growth that's happening now is where she's gonna learn what she's what really made of, and that she'll probably need to work at it. You know, I think she's been a natural for a long time and she's coming to the place in her surfing where that change is I need to apply my natural abilities and improve upon them." I maika‘i ke kalo i ka ‘ohā. (The goodness of the taro is judged by the young plant it produces.) ‘Ōlelo No‘eau (Hawaiian Proverb) The wisdom behind this proverb is that parents are often judged by the behavior of their children. If Ēwe and ‘Oaka are their parents two highest scoring rides then mom (Lu‘ukia) and dad (Sterling) are comboing the field with an 18.5 out of 20 points heat total. Kalo (Taro) is the staple of the Hawaiian people and it is the cultural metaphor for ‘ohana (family). The success of Ēwe and ‘Oaka all starts at home with the environement that mom and dad created where ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i and cultural practices, like surfing, are normalized daily. Parents are the original teachers, sponsors, coaches and support crew after all. “[Ēwe and ‘Oaka] are awesome and it's a direct reflection of Sterling and Lu‘kia,” says Bacalso. “They're level headed, they're hard workers and they're just badass people so their offspring is a direct reflection of them.” 54

‘Ewe Wong and friend, Hokulani Topping.

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GROMS TAKE OVER THE VOLCOM HOUSE Intro by Andrew Oliver Photos by Tai Van Dyke Captions by Dave Riddle The Volcom House has an unrivaled reputation among the team houses that dot the shoreline between Ehukai and Off the Wall. Infamous for housing some of the gnarliest characters in surfing, it has been an incubator for some of surfing's defining performances of the last 20+ years. The one person who’s been witness to it all is Volcom Hawai’i Team Manager Dave Riddle, “It all started out with Gerry (Lopez), the King of Pipeline, building the house, and those who frequented the house were the best surfers in the world. That set the tone. And, when Volcom eventually bought it, that same thing kind of re-emerged, the best of the best surfers on the planet, hanging out, watching Pipe, surfing Pipe, and being such a big part of the whole Pipeline community.”

by putting in the time,” said Riddle. “With the house we’re privileged to be able to have the groms come to the house and absorb some of the knowledge that has been set down from the veterans on the team like David Wassel, Ty Van Dyke, and Kai Henry - which is priceless. These kids are chargers and they're going to do it with, or without us. So, our first priority is for them to be safe and we want them to learn the environment as best they can.” This year’s grom posse included Big Island’s Diesel Butts, Maui’s Justin and Steve Roberson, Tiger and Stone Abubo from the Garden Isle, North Shore locals Nalu Deodato and Maikai Burdine, and the sole Californian Hayden Rogers from San Clemente. It’s a week of non-stop surfing, as the groms take full advantage of occupying one of the most coveted pieces of real estate in all of surfing. It’s safe to say that more water time was logged by the groms in one week than the pro team will total in the entire season. “The groms are out there at daybreak and they want to see what each other is doing. That's what motivates them to do a little more than the other. It’s all about who launched the highest air, who’s doing the biggest turns, who's pulling in the deepest, who’s charging, and they get into that so wholeheartedly, it's incredible,” said Riddle.

With the team house as the focal point, Volcom has built a legacy of having a hard-charging team who are more than comfortable performing in the front yard. With the front yard being one of the most dangerous and challenging waves on the planet, that comfort level doesn’t happen overnight. So, you gotta start em young. “We’ve had great riders from Bruce Irons to Dusty Payne, Mitch Coleburn, Noa Deane, Jack Robinson, and the list goes on and on. And, we’ve seen the formula work with them, of how well they’re able to perform out here 56

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Diesel Butts is a boy that surfs like a man. His turns are really powerful and I'm really impressed with how on a year to year basis, how much more power he brings to that rail. It's incredible. And, now he's utilizing his ability to go vertical more, but still come up with that power of his top turn gouge.

This is the case in point of how much these groms push each other not a moment is lost. Here's Tiger Abubo doing a huge tail gouge with his fins on the back at Rockie’s, with Justin Roberson with an excellent view out the back - taking notes and ready to one-up him on the next wave. The progression doesn’t stop.

Nalu Deodato is a dedicated young North Shore surfer. He's very familiar with all the spots and generally one of his biggest assets is wave selection. And, while it doesn’t look like he picked the best wave here, haha, he was able to turn this funky wave into a thing of beauty with this frontside turn.

Stone Abubo with one last snap before dinner, and isn't it a blessing when it’s just a quick walk across the beach to the dinner table.

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The conditions were really difficult, almost the entire period of the uf grom camp. A steep north, north east swell, with lots of current and wind. And this particular day at Sunset, it was pretty funky. But, the kids went out there and actually made it look pretty darn good. This is Justin Roberson showing us that a classic big sweeping cutty always works at Sunset.

I would have to say that Maikai Burdine puts in the time and it's really apparent here with the size of this man-snap on a really funky day at Sunset.

The one visiting surfer of the group, San Clemente shredder Hayden Rogers, has been surfing Hawaii for quite some time now and he blends right in with the local Volcom team riders. He has the talent to mix it up with the best in the water, and the ability to adapt well to the team vibe on land. Perfect type of guest.

Diesel and Maikai here, looking pretty beat, haha. But, the reps never stop. I’m sure there was another session this day.

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I N DUSTRY N OTES Julian Wilson goes on hiatus

Medina Wins 2021 ESPY For Best Men's Action Sports Athlete Already enjoying what may be the best season of his stellar career, Gabriel Medina has won the 2021 ESPY Award for Best Men's Action Sports Athlete.

After a fantastic decade-long career surfing against the world's best on the WSL Championship Tour Julian Wilson will be taking an indefinite break from professional surfing to spend time with his family.

Carissa Moore was nominated for Best Women's Action Sports Athlete, but those honors ultimately went to snowboarder Chloe Kim. Taking place in New York City on July 10, the 29th annual ESPN sports awards show celebrates the year's best "players, moments, coaches and games." Medina edged out supercross rider Cooper Webb and snowboards Yuto Totsuka and Marcus Kleveland to earn his first ESPY. He was also nominated for an ESPY in 2019, but lost out to skateboard Nyjah Huston.

Touched down in Japan and ready for the world stage The first image of USA Olympic athletes in Japan. Carissa Moore, Caroline Marks, Kolohe Andino, John John "Hi to everyone that’s been following along my Florence, #USASurfing journey. I would like to take this time to let you all know I’m taking a break indefinitely from the @WSL world tour for my own well being and that of my family.

Big wave surfing pioneer Greg Noll passed away of natural causes aged 84, in Crescent City, California. Greg “Da Bull” Noll, who became a surfing legend by combining a gregarious, outsized personality with the courage and skill to ride bigger, more powerful waves than anyone had ever attempted, has died. He was 84.

By no means am I calling it a retirement from professional surfing and the decision I have made is in line with what I value most in my life and that is my family. The inability to travel internationally with them now and for the foreseeable future is enough for me to take a step back and be there for my wife and children.

One of the first and arguably one of the greatest big-wave riders, Noll was much more than a surfer. He was also an entrepreneur who helped transform the sport with his Greg Noll surfboards, which were among the first to be built from balsa wood, which made them more maneuverable and light enough for most people to use.

I’m feeling really good about my decision and really excited for what my future looks like with extra time on my hands and I’ll be bringing some new projects to life(!) while enjoying being with my family.

“It is with a heavy heart the Noll family announces the death of our patriarch, Greg Noll. Greg died of natural causes on Monday June 28th, at the

age of 84. Massive thank you to my sponsors for their We invite all of our friends and family to celebrate his life by sharing this post and your stories, unwavering backing and for everyone’s love pictures and experiences through your preferred platform. and support on my journey, this is not over for me but just the beginning of a new chapter! Aloha The Noll Family” 62

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Right on time for ‘The summer of Pogues’. The Volcom X Outer Banks collection includes graphics and styles inspired by the award-winning Netflix series Outer Banks. Volcom’s creative vision and passion for building lifelong friendships is reflected through the ‘Have a Good Time All the Time’ collection. Stone rewards members get a free bumper sticker with any purchase from the Outer Banks collection (*while supplies last). From bucket hats to pullover hoodies, Volcom embraces Pogue life and encourages others to have a good time all the time.

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H I C X Z I P P Y ’ S C O L A B The HIC x Zippy’s colab is a celebration of HIC's partnership with Zippy’s in the Surf Pac Contests of the 1980’s and ’90’s. The long-running amateur contests were held at Ala Moana Bowls and inspired the addition of the Surf Pac as a permanent menu item at Zippy’s restaurants.

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A Great Cuppa Joe Who doesn't LOVE a great cup of Maui grown Coffee? Introducing Java Jaws- already a favorite at the Freesurf office! After an absence of any organized Surf events for nearly a year, surfing competitions made a return and what a wake up call its been!! Java Jaws proceeded to show up & kick start every USA SURFING West Coast event, closing out the season at the June 21-25 Lower Trestles Junior Shortboard Championships. Covid restrictions being lifted by then; founder Gilbert Castillon aka: "JavaGman", shown (left) with partner Brad Williams and FSM's Mike Latronic, found himself brewing on site 15 gallons coffee & 10 gallons hot coco a day. "I'm an experienced coffee provider but this was a Juniors Surf event. I had to learn how to do a lot of coco on the fly for the groms & keiki. Somehow I pulled it off”.

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There’s no way to sugarcoat it, being a grom out at Pipeline isn’t easy. You’re at the back of a very long line. And the only way to advance your position is by putting in the time. North Shore’s Maikai Burdine is as dedicated as they come, always one of the first ones out, and happy to pay his dues. Hard work does have its rewards, here is Maikai rejoicing in the spoils of his efforts on an early morning Pipeline gem. Photo: Christa Funk