Freesurf November 2022 V19 N11

Kanoa

Brian Bielmann

FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA

LUCAS DIRKSE

FREE PARKING

Golden hour casts moody highlights on this late afternoon set wave at Waimea Bay. [omit extra space] Luminous and pleasing to the eye, one could easily be lulled into serenity- but don't be fooled: no matter the texture or [omit the]hue, powerful waves bring powerful consequences. Photo Brian Bielmann.

Photo Brian Bielmann

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Subject to credit approval. Apply for the personal Priority Destinations World Elite Credit Card by 12/31/22 and, if you’re approved, earn 50,000 bonus Priority Miles with $3,000 spend within the fi rst 3 months after account opening. Your account opening date is noted on your approval letter. You’ll also earn 5x Priority Miles per $1 spent on net qualifying travel purchases for the fi rst $6,000 per calendar year and 2x Priority Miles per $1 spent on travel purchases thereafter. Also, earn 2x Priority Miles per $1 spent on everyday purchases (gas, groceries, cable TV, phone, and other monthly utilities) and 1x Priority Mile per $1 spent on all other net qualifying purchases. Purchases made at department stores, superstores, discount stores, warehouse clubs are not eligible to earn 2x Priority Miles. Priority Miles have no cash value except as described in the Priority Destinations World Elite Program Agreement. Travel and booking are subject to availability. Other fees, terms, conditions, and restrictions apply. See the Priority Destinations World Elite Program Agreement for more information. First Hawaiian Bank reserves the right to cancel or change the Program at any time without prior notice.

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By Mike Latronic

FEATURING

Tavana & Mike Love

Kanoa Igarashi is one of the fastest, most explosive and precise technicians in surfing today. With his recent win at the Olympic qualifier, the ISA World Games in Huntington Beach, Kanoa has truly placed himself at the upper crust of the world surfing elite.

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for an Exclusive Jam Session

This was no accident. Some twenty years ago I recall seeing Kanoa with his father Tsutomu at countless sessions at Lower Trestles and Huntington Beach - their hometown after relocating from Japan. Looking back, Tsutomu Igarashisan was super dedicated to the growth and development of his son in their favorite sport. I had attended no less than a dozen NSSA Nationals from about 1995 - 2015 and it was quite evident that the young surfer was being groomed for greatness. Early mornings, late afternoons, year after year the Igarashi’s were regulars. Today Kanoa is truly a consummate professional.

Photo Mike Latronic

NOTE

Surfing is a big part of life to most if not all who are readers of this magazine. this magazine. Most people who learn to surf either adopt it as a regular outdoor activity, enjoyed daily or weekly or more intensely, as a lifelong pursuit.

In the stretch of life’s timeline, long or short, there are just a few essential “things” we as earthlings pretty much ALL do. These categories are not choices , they are born of pure instinct and natural order. If you don’t do any of these you have likely caused your own demise. In no particular order let’s address survival as breathing, eating, sleeping, bathing, and reproduction. These are the basic essentials.

So most if not ALL other categories of life are selective options. These options, based on your goals, actions and circumstances might be education, entertainment, wardrobe, sport, courtship, work and other seemingly normal subjects. They are just thatsubjective.

If you chose surfing as life pursuit then we might agree, the act of simply floating on a surfboard is meditation. In addition to interacting with community, your friends and neighbors and at times traveling surfers, we enjoy nature. Surfers derive good exercise and literally reconnect with the earth as we see gravity and energy at work in the formation of waves and then the experience of looking at fish, or sea weed or sea birds and all of King Neptunes sea creatures.

The time we spend on that surfboard or quiver of surfboards, year after year amounts to a significant fraction of our lives. Thus what we place under our bodies when we paddle out to engage in our favorite pastime is of huge importance. For some it’s one of the most important relationships we have. The relationship with that equipment and the waves you catch can and do formulate the mental and physical well being of peoples mood and outlook on life. Physically the relationship can foster fun, thrills, and in some cases help get us through life and death decisions. Therein lies the long and short of the major theme of this edition of Freesurf Magazine.

In this issue we chronicle “Boards of Consequence,” and with that sharp-eyed craftsman Steve Morgan scribes about the life and contributions of one Dick Brewer. Brewer was arguably the greatest contributor to modern progressive surfing in waves of consequence to date so it only makes sense that we highlight the man and the evolution of the “mini gun” and then some.

Preloaded by the sage insights of former publisher and editor of Surfer Magazine, Jim Kempton, Freesurf catches up with the best “foam-smiths” of today to explore whats happening now with the way top athletes are riding heavy water conditions on the “Boards of Consequence,” that they design. Elite shapers like Pyzel, Biolos, Pang and Tokoro, to name a few give us the feeling and science behind their shaping and we also hear from some of their athletes who put life and limb to the test, all in the pursuit of fun and inertia.

In addition, staff writer Rebecca Parsons illuminates the female side of surfboard relationships and introduces us to several women who are dedicated to the process and also gets us informed about our two new world champions, Filipe Toledo and Stephanie Gilmore. There’s a snapshot of the ensuing “digital,” Vans Triple Crown, the ISA World Games and a slew of other news and tidbits!

-Mike Latronic

Photo Brian Bielmann

A new era begins

Surfing's most storied event is now invitation-only. A hand-picked field of the most exciting barrel riders and aerialists from around the world - men and women - will get pitted and take flight in a uniquely formatted competition. Watch Live as a new generation seeks to add their name to surfing's holy grail. Stay tuned for more information coming

Nathan Florence. Photo Brian Bielmann

all season

Vans Surf proudly announces the Vans Pipe Masters event will run on O'ahu’s North Shore December 8-20, 2022. Building on more than 50 years of history, Vans reimagines the iconic Pipe Masters as a specialty invitational event fueling innovation, community, and progression by showcasing some of the most talented men and women surfers in the world. This year’s WSLsanctioned event will showcase 60 men and women surfers selected by Vans, who will be rewarded for tube riding, aerials and turns for the first time ever at Pipeline, while preserving the historical significance that makes the wave one of the most consequential and awe-inspiring in existence. The event kicks off three weeks prior to the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, a celebrated digital UGC surf competition that crowns the most outstanding male and female performances across three iconic surfing venues: Haleiwa, Sunset Beach and Pipeline.

WHAT: The Vans Pipe Masters

WHERE: Banzai Pipeline, North Shore of O'ahu, Hawai'i

WHEN: December 8-20, 2022

WHO: Men & women world-renowned surfers, by invitation only from Vans.

HOW: Watch live at vanspipemasters.com. @vanssurfevents.

USA and Japan Win First Olympic Spots at the ISA World Surfing Games

Typically, the ISA Games are an important event as they are a chance to represent your country and attempt to bring home the gold for your nation. But this year, the ISAs carried more weight than ever before as there were two Olympic qualification spots on the line: one for the men and one for the women.

The games went down in Huntington Beach, California from September 16-24. The Pacific delivered pumping conditions and countries from around the world gathered to duke it out for the chance to be crowned champion and solidify an Olympic spot for his or her country.

"We had a really fun team," said WSL 2022 rookie of the year Gabriela Bryan, "I mainly did the ISA event not only to represent the US, but to get that third Olympic spot. I think it's valuable for us."

There were a number of incredible performances, early eliminations, high scores, and upsets throughout the games. In the end, Kirra Pinkerton (USA) won gold for the women and secured the coveted Olympic spot. Pauline Ado (FRA) locked in silver and Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) took home the bronze.

On the men’s side, Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) came away victorious, winning gold and claiming the Olympic spot for Japan’s men. Rio Waida (INA) ended up with silver and Jackson Baker (AUS) took home the bronze.

“The support I felt from the whole team coming down here and supporting me gave me all the energy in the world,” said Igarashi. “It was a really crazy week and full of emotions.”

In the end, the United States claimed the overall team trophy for best men’s and women’s combined scores. Nat Young (5th), Kolohe Andino (7th), and Griffin Colapinto (tied for 19th) brought in points on the men’s side and Pinkerton (1st), Gabriela Bryan (tied for 9th) and Zoe McDougall (tied for 21st) contributed points for the women.

Kanoa Igarashi

Photo ISA / Pable Franco

Kirra Pinkerton

Photo ISA / Pable Franco

California Vineyards with Hawai'i Roots

Final Rankings by Gender (for Olympic Qualification)

Women USA - 1880 Australia - 1815 France - 1735 Portugal - 1538 Canada - 1280 Men Japan - 1835 USA - 1555 Indonesia - 1532 Brazil - 1450 Australia - 1435

Open Women’s Division

Gold - Kirra Pinkerton Silver - Pauline Ado Bronze - Sally Fitzgibbons Copper - Daniella Rosas

Open Men’s Division

Gold - Kanoa Igarashi

Silver - Rio Waida Bronze - Jackson Baker Copper - Guilherme Fonseca

Overall Teams Rankings

Gold - USA - 3435 Silver - Australia - 3250 Bronze - Portugal - 2928 Copper - France - 2988

Aloha Cup Final Results

Gold - France Silver - USA Bronze - Argentina Copper - Portugal

Kirra Pinkerton Photo ISA / Pable Franco

Kanoa Igarashi Photo ISA / Pable Franco

FOR THE

TRVLR

SHORTS

Surfing For Hope Longboard Classic

A marathon Finals Day crowned Sophia Culhane (HAW) and Kai Sallas (HAW) the maiden World Surf League (WSL) Surfing For Hope Longboard Classic, a North America and Hawai'i/Tahiti Longboard Qualifying Series event, in spectacular fashion. Jaw-dropping performances from Culhane and Sallas culminated to crucial wins, helping back themselves up on the 2023 WSL Longboard Tour, ahead of their World Title races at the Cuervo Classic Malibu Longboard Championship pres. by O'Neil. Glassy, two-to-three foot swell provided moments of brilliance to close out the inaugural event, helping spread cancer awareness with the ocean.

The women’s Final unraveled between Hawai'i’s event standouts Culhane and Haley Otto (HAW) with Otto holding a solid, 10.00 (out of a possible 20) heat total in the first ten minutes as Culhane looked to earn a 6.50 (out of a possible 10) to get back into the affair. Culhane’s answer fell just shy, accruing a 6.35 before backing it up with a 6.50 to take the lead. Then, she continued that form to post an excellent 8.50 at the ten-minute mark and force Otto into requiring an 8.10 as time dwindled. (Full interview in newsfeed)

“It feels so good and I'm just stoked," said Culhane. “It's pretty special to surf with (Haley Otto) at home then surf with her in a heat here. There's always that rivalry, but when you get back on land we're all friends.”

This marks Culhane’s first-ever WSL victory after a marathon Finals Day ended in glory for the O'ahu, Hawai'i competitor. Culhane had to overcome multiple event threats, starting with a Round of 16 win, including an in-form, former WSL Longboard Champion, Rachael Tilly (USA), in the Semifinals, after earning runner-up to her in their Round of 8 affair. Now Culhane sets her eyes on Malibu for a chance at her maiden World Title.

A quick start in the men’s Final went to Sallas to earn an impressive 6.25 and backed it up with a 5.75 to take control

sits atop the Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui rankings.

"The waves actually ended up being really fun," said Sallas. "If you don't compete for awhile you get those jitters so this was a good warmup heading into Malibu. I know Richie (Cravey) is a really good surfer and I've never competed against him, but I know he's one of those underground, really good guys. I feel like my boards are working better than ever and I hope I can surf well in Malibu."

WSL Longboard Tour veteran Sallas showcased his experience and style throughout the event, winning each heat he stepped into from his Round of 32 debut until claiming the victory. A clutch win in the Semifinals over Troy Mothershead (USA) nearly saw the Hawaiian pushed out of competition, but Mothershead last attempt didn’t meet his requirement. Now, Sallas’ focus turns to a big World Title showdown.

and leave an in-form Richie Cravey (USA) needing a 7-point ride at the halfway mark. Sallas showed his experienced and utilized his priority brilliantly at the 7-minute mark to post a 7.50 with impressive footwork to closing the wave out, increasing Cravey’s requirement to an excellent 8.95 for the win. When the horn sounded, it was Sallas who emerged victorious riding his own craft and now

A brilliant run through Finals Day for Otto garnered a career-best WSL result and put herself into a great position toward qualifying for the 2023 WSL Longboard Tour. The Wakiki, O'ahu surfer took control of each of her heats, earning wins in each of her Round of 16, Round of 8, and head-to-head Semifinal bout with Nique Miller (USA). Now, the former WSL Longboard Tour competitor awaits another opportunity to secure her place among the world’s best once more.

Cravey’s road to the Final was no easy task, having to take on current World No. 1 Kaniela Stewart (HAW) in both his Round of 8, trading off excellent waves with one of the world’s best, and Semifinal affairs after a convincing Round of 16 win. The 34-year-old’s dream run may have ended with a runner-up, but

Sophia Culhane and Kai Sallas Win Inaugural

Haley Otto, Sophia Culhane, and Kai Sallas of Hawai'i and Richie Cravey of USA Photo RunAmuck Photography /WSL

RECYCLED MATERIALS

now sits atop the North America rankings and in contention to join the world’s best in 2023 as he and fellow North America contingent await their next opportunity for competition.

An incredible showing from 2015 WSL Longboard Champion Tilly ended in a back-and-forth battle with eventual winner Culhane. The two traded off on some of the day’s best waves, Tilly posting a day’s best of 8.75, came down to the final seconds with Culhane needing an 8.46 before earning an excellent 8.60 to steal a win. Tilly now sets her eyes on a second World Title run at the Cuervo Classic Malibu Longboard Championship pres. by O'Neil.

Stewart’s impeccable debut still held firm as the event’s best performance before being dismantled by eventual runner-up Cravey in their second bout at Pismo Beach. But, the current World No. 1 will have everything to surf toward a maiden World Title for next week in Malibu.

The Cuervo Classic Malibu Longboard Championship pres. by O'Neill will be live October 4 – 5 to determine the respective 2022 WSL Longboard Champions.

For more information, please visit www.WorldSurfLeague.com.

Women's Final Results:

Sophia Culhane (HAW) 15.40 1,000 points

- Haley Otto (HAW) 12.80 800 points

Men's Final Results:

Sallas (HAW)

Richie Cravey (USA) 9.60 800 points

Kaniela Stewart Photo by RunAmuck Photography Jenny Russell/WSL

Nique Miller Photo by RunAmuck Photography Jenny Russell/WSL

seamystichawaii.com

“SURFING WITH ALOHA SINCE 1977”

ALA MOANA CENTER KOKO MARINA WINDWARD MALL WAIKELE CENTER

HYATT REGENCY WAIKIKI LAHAINA GATEWAY HUNTINGTON BEACH, CA

Keanu Asing

Gabriela Bryan. Photo Brian Bielmann

Rookie Lessons from GABRIELA BRYAN

By Rebecca Parsons

For Gabriela Bryan, surfing has always been a family affair. Bryan spent her childhood on Kauai’s north shore and her dad took her surfing for the first time when she was just four years old. Growing up, Bryan would regularly surf with her family and occasionally competed in kid’s competitions for fun.

By the time she was ten, Bryan began taking surfing more seriously. She started competing regularly in junior contests and by the time she was fifteen, she knew that she wanted to be a professional surfer. In 2021, Bryan won the Challenger Series securing her spot on the 2022 Championship Tour.

“It was super cool to have the feeling that I accomplished one of my dreams, something that I worked really hard towards,” says Bryan of qualifying for the CT. “It was super special, especially for everyone that’s helped me get to the CT and supported me. I felt like it was an accomplishment for a lot of people.”

Heading into her rookie season, Bryan had mixed emotions. Naturally, she had some nerves, but for the most part, she was excited. She was ready to show the world her surfing and give it her all. With the introduction of the mid-season cut, the rookies were thrown into the lion’s den from day one, with no time to warm up and get their bearings.

“There’s so much natural talent out there and top ten is something that’s really hard to accomplish,” says Bryan. “With the mid-year cut in place it didn’t really give us rookies a chance to find our footing. There was no easing into it—it was just all in or you’re out.”

From day one, Bryan gave it her all and was especially proud of making the final at the Sunset Beach Pro, ultimately securing a third-place finish. Heading into the Margaret River Pro, Bryan

sat at the cusp of the cut line and needed to make the final in order to make the cut. Luckily, she brought her A-game and was the only rookie to make it past the mid-season cut.

“I was really proud of how I kept my composure—I had a goal and I did everything I could to achieve that goal,” says Bryan. “Making the cut was really exciting and it was a big relief because the whole back half of the year I didn’t have the pressure of losing my spot.”

Bryan ultimately rounded out the season in ninth place and was awarded ‘rookie of the year’ by the WSL. She attributes her success to the hard work she puts in and the community that backs her. Bryan also has a solid quiver under her feet that allows her to perform her absolute best.

“My whole quiver is shaped by Matt Biolos,” Bryan says. “I think it’s important to have a shaper that you have a lot of trust in. Matt puts so much time into my boards and I’m grateful for all his support.”

With her rookie season done and dusted, Bryan has had some time to breath and reflect on the season. She’s proud of her performance and learned a lot from her first year. The tour is intense and involves a lot of travel, so Bryan learned to adapt to life

Gabriela Bryan. Photo Gaby Nipusi

RYAN VALASEK IN THE XCEL RETRO PREMIUM STRETCH

on the road. All the competitors on tour are fierce in their pursuit of a world title, so Bryan learned to not take anything lightly and to always do the best that she can—as long as she works hard and gives her all, Bryan is happy with her results.

“Enjoy every moment,” Bryan says as a word of advice to next year’s class of rookies. “It’s super special to be surrounded by some of the best surfers in the world, so learn as much as you can. There’s so much inspiration around you when you’re a part of the CT, so soak up every moment of it and do your best to show the world what you’ve got.”

Looking forward, Bryan’s goal for next season is to make the final five. She’d also like to win a CT event and eventually, win a world title. Bryan is also fighting for a chance to represent the United States and Hawai'i at the Olympics with the goal of securing a medal. Though Bryan has lofty goals, she’s willing to put in the work it takes to achieve them.

“I just want to say thank you to everyone that’s supported me and helped me get to where I am” says Bryan. “I would not be here without everyone and the whole entire community behind me that has pushed me and believed in me since the very beginning. I’m always striving for the best and I’m going to do everything I can to achieve my goals.”

Gabriela Bryan. Photo @asucamp

DICK BREWER HO’OMUA

by Steve Morgan

It was the summer of 1981. We were motoring our way out to the tip of Point Loma in a nominal watercraft I had purchased six months prior for $300. On board were Dick Brewer, myself, and two other friends, Dave Peterson and Keith Hennant. Although a bit worn, the 40 hp engine had not failed us, and in the distance, with the haze lifting, we could see the ninety degree mechanical wrap of a 4-6 foot south swell making its way around the point. With no other boats in sight, we would get what we came for. As we quieted the boat's engine, we realized one significant problem though. We had forgotten the anchor. We then headed back near shore, and it was Keith who jumped overboard to pull up a rock from the shallow bottom, a really big rock. This would serve as our anchor… All good.

The surf that day was epic California, a session that remains permanently etched into my memory. I still remember the big grin on Dick's face as he returned to the boat. In short, we had scored!

Gerry Lopez on the first mini gun shaped by Dick Brewer" Dec 29, 1967 Photo by Tim McCullough

Chilling out after our surf and a few beers later, it was time to head back, so we went to pull anchor; the only problem was that no one could pull the anchor up. The rock was too heavy and adding to the debacle, the chain wrapped around the rock was bolted to the boat, and we had no tools to detach it from our end. From the words of the guru himself, he said, "Someone is going to have to dive to the bottom," and without hesitation, Dick dove overboard, disappearing from view into the murky water and the kelp forest below us. Within a period of maybe thirty seconds, Dick managed to untangle the quagmire of rope and chain that held us captive, and moments later, we were on our way.

My reason for telling this story is that it reveals a few key elements of Dick Brewer's character. For one, he was one of the guys, out to have fun and loved a good surf session. The story also takes us beyond the assumed parameters of Hawai'i Nei, exposing Dick's California link. This is not insignificant, but setting that aside, the real moral of the story though is that sometimes you might be fooled, thinking Dick was just along for the ride and taking it easy, but in reality, Dick was calculating things the entire time and would do whatever it took to move things forward. This is the reason that he flourished from one generation to the next, and of his tenacious character, we are all the beneficiaries.

Gerry Lopez made the following declaration and continues to stand by it, stating, "Dick Brewer will certainly go down in history as the greatest surfboard designer ever to live." It is important to make the distinction in what Gerry is saying. He didn't say Brewer was the greatest shaper of his generation; instead, he says he is the greatest shaper in perpetuity. So why would Lopez make such a bold statement? Clearly, he understood that what Brewer accomplished had changed everything we knew about surfing and surfboard design. Dick's contributions to surfboard design would permanently impact everything forward.

The early development of Dick's surfboard designs was rapid between the years of 1962 and 1968, taking place in incremental stages. Models that brought Dick notoriety included the Pipeliner in 63, to which Butch Van Artsdalen brought global attention, and the Pintail Light Weight, probably the first board to incorporate edge in the tail. But It was a transitional board that would capture Dick's imagination, later referred to as the Lotus. The story as it was passed on to me was that Dick made a 9'10" gun for David Nuuhiwa in the spring of '67 and that David broke the nose off that board. With the help of Randy Rarick, Dick re-outlined the board's nose, making it around two feet shorter. When Dick first surfed the remodeled version of the board out at Chuns,

he was surprised at how well the board performed and how easily it moved up and down the wave. I don't know whether it was revelation or confirmation, but Dick understood that greater control out of the back third of the board could allow for less rail line, making the board more maneuverable but still directional. The seed that was planted from this experiment would ultimately come to fruition six months later at that pivotal moment when Dick shaped the first Mini Gun for Gerry Lopez, what we now recognize as the first modern “short board.”

The term "Mini Gun" may seem peculiar in our day, but the term gives way to the single most significant evolution in surfboard design. At that time, shapers all over the globe were looking at making shorter boards. Outlines were beginning to change and things were in flux, but the platform was still based on the physics of early 60’s longboard design. Instead, Dick recognized that the characteristics of a short gun was where the future of surfing lay.

The evolution of the Mini Gun wasn't just about outline, though. With a background in aeronautic design, the culmination of Dick's design innovation is that he changed the entire platform of surfboard design from hydrodynamic to aerodynamic. Dick treated the surfboard as though it was an airplane wing. I use a quote by master surfboard shaper Steve Boehne, as it simply and accurately describes Dick's innovation.

"Dick Brewer brought surfboard design out of the dark ages when he started applying aerodynamic foils to surfboards. Essentially, the top side (lifting side) of an airplane wing was applied to the bottom side of the surfboard. In addition, the thickness flow of an airplane wing was applied to the surfboard profile and for the first time, the rocker in the bottom of a surfboard, including tail rocker and kick in the nose, was correlated to speed and performance."

Down rails combined with foiled tails gave Dick's surfboards the ability to track and ride higher on the waves' surface yet still penetrate and control deep turns. In reverse, releasing pressure from this penetration would accelerate the board.

I remember what Owl Chapman said to me many years ago, comparing it to "Squeezing a wet bar of soap out of your hand."

If the only thing Dick had done in his shaping career was to create the Mini Gun he would have already accomplished more than any other shaper in history. This single design has impacted every surfboard since, whether short boards, long boards, or big wave boards. But Dick didn't stop there. Dick kept moving forward in design development in every generation, never looking back.

Dick Brewer (far right) at Waimea Mid 60's Photo by David Darling

Laird Hamilton on the Millennium Wave" Aug 17, 2000 Photo by Tim McKenna

Giving evidence to this was Laird Hamilton towing in at Teahupoo in 2000, on what would be referred to as "The Millennium Wave." It was a seemingly impossible wave made possible; a historical moment that would completely change the trajectory and perception of surfing big waves. Buzzy Kerbox describes the early design evolution at Peahi that would eventually lead to that point. "Dick's knowledge of the ocean, the equipment needed for any condition, and how to deliver the perfect board is legendary. While a 9'6" Waimea Gun is perfect for some waves, we found it not to be perfect for Peahi (Jaws). It was 1993. Darrick Doerner took Laird to see Dick and described the problems. Dick said, "come back in an hour" Suddenly, there it was; a 7'4", sixteen-inch wide board specialized for Tow-in. A giant progression for the sport. Dick had done it again."

As shapers, we are hesitant to give anyone credit for being the inventor of any surfboard design, the reason being that almost every design is a natural progression and all too commonly, someone else is also dreaming up the same design, possibly in another corner of the world. Dick is the outlier, though, in whom all the stars would line up. From wings to multi-fin

surfboards, Dick's innovations would become so universally accepted, that today, there is not a board in the water that doesn't have Dick's fingerprints on it.

Going back 48 years, I remember being at Pt. Loma High and seeing the surf film "A Winter's Tale," one of the best international films of the time. Midway, the film reveals some of the great Hawaiian surfing of that era, including surfing by Gerry Lopez, Ben Aipa, Sam Hawk, and Larry Bertlemann. The spectacle of the film that evening though was seeing 22 year old Owl Chapman doing his "Birdman" move at Pipe, dropping to one knee with his hands in the air. At that point, everyone in the auditorium went berserk! Owl was (and is) a rock star and a mega-talented surfer, but he would admit that this was also made possible by the surfboard under his feet. Instead of the kamikaze bravado of generations past, as Owl demonstrated, surfing waves of consequence could now be done with finesse and a level of confidence, made possible by one man, "Dick Brewer."

Owl Chapman with early Brewer three fin,Jan 1970.

Photo Drew Kampion

BOARDS OF CONSEQUENCE

Intro by Jim Kempton Interviews by Mike Latronic

They say the world is shaped by two things: stories told and the memories left behind. Nowhere is this truer than in surfing. The stories are where we go - both in real life and imagining in our minds about waveriding. That imagination is the catalyst for the shape of surfboards – and the conduit to take the surfer to new and unexplored places on a wave. Jon Pyzel recently told me that the leading edge surfers today are striving not just to drop into the face, but to take off under the lip. To go there is not simply to shorten, or narrow, or sharpen the tool. Today’s waveriding vehicles - while employing the undisputed principles of hydrodynamics - are also inventing whole new ways of expanding performance. Shaping visionaries of past decades – Tom Blake, Bob Simmons, Matt Kivlin, Dick Brewer – each made massive leaps in the design of a surfboard. They were to surfboard design what DaVinci, Newton, Edison and Einstein were to science. They wedded complex theory to the simple beauty of utility. As the time passes, the incremental advancements to push the performance forward become a study in fine art and applied science.

Photo Tony Heff

Surfboards are, after all, both artistic pieces of technology and functional pieces of art. They require the vision of an architect, the craft of a sculptor, the fundamentals of an engineer. Each facet of a surfboard intricately interacts with the others in order to achieve its purpose: the taper of a rail creates speed or desired mobility. Volume relates to a matching body weight. Fins are functional wing levers, defining direction and stability. Rocker and width are determined by the type of wave being surfed. Understanding the theories and concepts themselves is better heard in the shapers own words - and many of the contemporary greats speak in the following pages. But we can safely say that the relationship between a waverider and shaper is a symbiotic bond that involves a deep trust and a equal amount of respect for the other. And the collaboration can sometimes deliver magic. Occasionally a shaper will create a model of perfection for the surfer intended. Each of us can remember finding that magic board – but it is rare. And due to the vast number of variables it is too often seemingly impossible to recreate an exact match. It frequently takes years for a shaper to define the intricacies of a surfers style and ability – complicated by the changing age and ability of the surfer Himself.

In some cases – particularly in big wave riders or dangerous slabs and reefs, the surfer is putting their lives in the hands of the shaper – and not just by creating the equipment. The contribution a shaper make can go far beyond act of mowing foam. As with many a shaper, Al Merrick was a mentor and uncle to Tom Curren, Lisa Anderson and Kelly Slater –three of the most consequential surfers of the modern era. Longstanding surfer/shaper relationships can become deep – even instinctual. Andy Irons told me the story of a year his shaper made a monumental difference that wasn’t even related to the surfboard shape. Eric Arakawa always made him a board and an exact replica for each world tour event insuring that should his trusty board be lost, damaged or broken he would have a doppelganger twin to ride in its place. But one year Arakawa had an intuition to make three boards for the Pipe Master’s. In one of the most celebrated duels of all competitive history A.I. managed to irreparably damage not one board but two. Taking his third board out for the finals Andy managed to beat Kelly Slater, win the Pipe event, capture a Triple Crown and take the World Title. That was a board of consequence. And in the end the stories told and the memories that are left are all that we have.

JOHN PYZEL

Paddling

Deep water waves require more paddle power in a board (ideally). I like to put a lot of foam in the center of the board and up under the chest area, while still keeping the rails less bulky for maximum control and speed. A fat rail is hard to sink and also creates more drag than a thinner rail will. All aspects of a design can change how well they paddle, but rocker is a big one for me. If you have a long, clean entry rocker the board will paddle better than a thicker, bulkier board with too much rocker in the nose.

John John Florence Photo Mike Latronic

The Drop

In hollow waves, different parts of the board will be engaged depending on the stance of the surfer. If they are taking off backside and pulling in right away, then the whole rail will be engaged right away. For frontside takeoffs they may be able to knife under the lip right away, but can also often end up doing a little air drop and connecting the tail first. Shorter boards have allowed me to use a little less rocker in the noses since they fit into the curve of the wave easier, but that only works if you have a wave that allows for an early entry. For slabs you have to have more rocker to fit the curve, or really short boards—it depends on how the surfer wants to approach the wave.

The Bottom Turn

During the bottom turn and all turns really, all the parts of the board are working as a whole, but the rocker and outline will have the most obvious effect on the outcome. The more curve in the outline and rocker, the easier it is going to be to turn and the less drive you will get out of the bottom turn. If you have a straighter rocker and a less curvy outline, the board will project more on the bottom turn and generate speed easier.

Down the line speed

More powerful waves automatically create speed for a surfer, so my goal is to build boards that harness that speed and allow maximum performance at speed! That means more rocker because the added curve through the bottom of the board will help release pressure and add control through big carving turns. You also have to consider that thickness in the rails is felt even more at higher speeds, so keeping them thinned out (especially through the tail) will let you tip your board onto its side much easier.

"The Next Step and the Ghost are two boards that all my team riders have really loved, and they have all helped me refine them over the years. The Next Step been ridden to victory in all three Triple Crown events (Haleiwa, Pipe and Sunset), which seems to be a change from the past when shapers made very different boards for those three spots."

Fins are the surfer’s choice, though I have designed fins with both Futures and FCS that I know will work well for my boards for most surfers. Sometimes, people just have their favorite set of fins they stick with no matter what.

Barrel

A good board should not have any severe limitations in the tube or turning, but board choice really depends on the type of wave. Is it a short slab that you have to backdoor to get into or is it a long one that runs down a reef that you need to generate speed and drive just to make the barrel? Those factors would influence the best board design more than "tubes or turns."

Rail Turn

If you watch John Florence on any bigger wave, you will see that his turning ability is not limited by the boards that he is riding. The big difference between small wave turns and big wave turns is bigger waves require more rounded, less pivotal turns, mostly because the surfer is going much faster in big waves. This means you want the board to be able to tip over onto the rail at high speeds and also hold through that turn without sliding out or laying back over flat. There are some very simple design principles that can help make these boards work, but it's the little details that make some boards stand out from others. I always try to remember that there is a huge amount of pressure built up under a board as it tips over at high speed and I try to design something that will help the surfer deal with that pressure and harness the energy without losing control.

Photo Mike Latronic

MATT BIOLOS

I would say a wave of consequence is anything that is large or powerful enough to hurt you, should you make a mistake. Usually hollow, shallow and barreling. Could be three feet, but generally speaking overhead, hollow, powerful and shallow. These waves require boards that are designed to harness and control the speed and power of the wave, rather than generate their own speed.

Regarding subtle differences between boards for heavy surf versus more playful waves, I believe there are pretty significant differences. For me, it tends to be less concave and less surface area in the rear half of the board. Narrower tails foiled more and with less concave.

The board should also have enough curve so as to not poke or get sticky in the pit and be able to stall and control speed to stay in the tube as long as possible. Rails that knife in and grip a steep face and don't release the wall, but don't feel too edgy. An outline that has enough curve and tail area to be maneuverable, but pulled in enough to not get uplifted by foam balls and turbulence. Shallower than normal concave combos, to negate the extra thickness and allow the board to surf “in the water” not "on the water.” Finally, fin placement, to allow turning from a bit more forward stance, but still provide drive and stability.

For typical, solid surf (anywhere) around the world we have developed our Step Driver which excels in head high powerful surf, up to (about) double overhead. The details on that board are all on our website.(website)

"For typical solid surf (anywhere) around the world we have developed our Step Driver which excels in head high powerful surf, up to (about) double overhead."

Carissa Moore Photo Brian Bielmann

go with the flow go with the flow

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Kona

WADE TOKORO

I would say that waves of consequence could be any wave that would be very dangerous to the surfer. It could be a small, powerful, compact wave that breaks over a shallow reef or a big, open ocean type of wave. Waves of consequence will determine how the surfboard designs will change and adjust to the type of surf conditions and ability of the surfer. There are a lot of factors involved for the overall design such as rocker, volume, and tail for different types of waves of consequence.

The design differences are huge for playful waves versus heavy surf. Board designs for bottom contours, dimensions, and volume are very different for heavy surf or small waves.

Having the right equipment in waves of consequence is very important: it's a matter of life or death! Having the right equipment allows the surfer to have fun in large surf and survive. Having the wrong equipment could be detrimental and cost you your life. As far as being a surfboard designer and shaper, I feel I have a huge responsibility in making the right equipment for each surfer. The major aspects I look for in surfboard design for waves of consequence would be good paddling, easy to get into the waves, control, speed, and durability. All those factors make a big difference when surfing waves of consequence.

The model we use for waves of consequences is the 4VC, which is the model that most of the surfers use on the North Shore up to 12 feet. The 4VC is a model we have been using for years and it slowly evolved over the years to where it’s at right now. It's been proven at Pipeline, Sunset, and Haleiwa. It's a good all-around board for waves of consequence. When the waves get a lot bigger at the outer reefs and Waimea, we use another model which is a 4X, an offshoot of the 4VC which has a lower entry rocker, the wide point up more, and thickness towards the nose to help with paddling to get into really large surf. Some of the surfers we have been working with these designs are Seth Moniz, Reo Inaba, Zeke Lau, Keanu Asing and Jamie O'Brien. The base of the design had a lot of influence from Sunny Garcia.

"The design differences are huge for playful waves versus heavy surf. Board designs for bottom contours, dimensions and volume are very different for heavy surf or small waves... Having the right equipment in waves of consequence is very important, it's a matter of life or death!"

Seth Moniz Photo Brian Bielmann

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GLENN MINAMI

Board design needs to fit the size and location of the wave. I would say that 10foot and up local scale would be considered waves of consequence. Good-to-better board volume is probably most important, along with the appropriate rocker, bottom contours and fin size/placement.

The heavier the wave, the more different the board needs to be. In playful waves, boards can be shorter, thinner, and narrower, just enough to get by. But in heavier waves, everything needs to be beefed up. Being able to catch the wave is primary, so you need a board that can get you over that ledge early. Bottom contours need to be shaped to be able to handle gnarlier takeoffs, more speed, and more bumps and chops.

I think that a big thing in riding in bigger surf is your mental state. You need to have confidence in the lineup when the big sets show up. I believe that a huge part of this confidence comes from your board. If you don’t trust your board or if your board is not right for the surf you’re in, your confidence level will be way low and you’ll be flailing round in the lineup. But, if you have a board you really trust, it’s the right shape and length, and it paddles well, your confidence will be way up and you will be in “charging” mode. It's like fight or flight, the right board puts you in fight mode.

The main models I have for bigger surf are the F-3, Waimea, and Outer Reef models. F-3’s have a wide range of lengths from 7’0 to 8’10, for waves from say 8-12 foot max. For waves over 12-feet, the Waimea and Outer Reef models take over. Each model is similar in general theory, but the longer ones become more exaggerated in its structure, meaning they get longer, beefier, and heavier. They can handle more wave size, more current, more bumps, wind, and speed. I still want the boards to be fast, but as the waves get bigger, I tone down the bottoms and rails so it can handle speed rather than create too much speed.

"I think that a big thing in riding in bigger surf is your mental state. You need to have confidence in the lineup when the big sets show up. I believe that a huge part of this confidence comes from your board."

Jackson Bunch Photo Brian Bielmann

GLENN PANG

Waves of consequence start at around 8-10 feet, enough to get your heart rate going. Board design starts to really change at that point to match the power of the waves.

For smaller waves, you are trying to make boards that have more lift and speed, so the boards tend to have deeper concaves, which make them ride higher in the water. As for boards that are made for larger waves, the waves have the speed and power, so you are trying to make boards that will sit a little deeper in the water for more control and responsiveness. Boards made for larger waves tend to have more pulled in outlines with shallow concaves and even some deeper vees around the fin area.

When it gets to the heavy surf, life and death stuff, guys are putting their lives in your hands when they are on your boards. Feedback becomes even more critical when designing and making changes to these boards. I am lucky enough to be working with Billy Kemper, who is one of the best heavy wave surfers.

Guys are riding shorter and shorter boards nowadays as compared to a few years ago, so paddling into heavy waves becomes a big factor. It’s a fine line when adding more volume without hindering performance. Allowing the rider to use shorter boards without sacrificing paddling, equates to higher performance in larger waves.

When it gets to the heavy surf, life and death stuff, guys are putting their lives in your hands when they are on your boards. Feedback becomes even more critical when designing and making changes to these boards.

Billy Kemper Photo Mike Latronic

PERKINS

CO

ERIC ARAKAWA

There are two aspects of [boards on consequence]: size and the amount of volume of water that's moving over the reef. There are certain locations around the world that tend to produce a lot more powerful waves than you would see at your average break—places like Hawai'i, Tahiti, and even Europe. I visited the Canary Islands this year and they have heavy slaby waves, just as heavy as Hawai'i. It's crazy what surfers are riding right now in waves of consequence compared to what they were using fifteen years ago.

"There's nuances to each board so I'm feeling it, you know, if it's a board for Pipe, I'm visualizing that thing, that board dropping down the 15 foot ledge and I'm just visualizing how the water is wrapping around that rail in the face. And, you know, even if some of the changes are subtle, I'll make the adjustments. I’m just, I'm so meticulous I just can't let it go. It's like you have to see it. "

Jack Robinson Photo Brian Bielmann

I think the thing with waves of consequence is that they are really powerful. They're dangerous and you're risking serious bodily injury or death—it doesn't even have to be huge. When it comes to waves of consequence, you're trying to maintain control in a very precarious, dangerous, high-risk situation. So we're not trying to design boards that generate speed, we're designing boards that give you control of the speed and power of the wave.

There are differences on some basic things. You have to reduce lift and you have to engage your rail at the same time. By doing that, you're creating control, but you still need a board to turn. The tricky part is designing a board that gives you control in very powerful conditions, but then with that control, producing a board that also turns. That's the magic.

One of the things that I have to constantly explain to customers is attaining equivalent volumes from board to board model to model and brand to brand doesn't equate to equivalent paddle power. I often get customers that are riding, say, 28 liters on a shortboard, who want to go to the next step up board and they want the same volume and they think it's going to get the same amount of power. I was just telling a customer a few years ago I was at J Bay and I borrowed a friend's board that I shaped. It was a 6’3”x 181/2” and 2 5/16” thick. And man, I don't ride boards that narrow and thin anymore but the surf came up and I just jumped on it with a fullsuit. The thing sank when I got onto it. But when I started paddling it just had this glide to it. I had no problems catching waves. The board was probably 25 or 26 liters but it just slipped through the water. Rocker, foam and flow, it all has to come together.

The specific model for me is our RP (round pin) model. That's our bread and butter board for the North Shore and places with waves of consequence.

The performance characteristics are what we talked about earlier, control, maneuverability and paddling. It's technical for me to describe and likely I think it's boring to everybody. I think maybe its more of an ethereal, more esoteric kind of answer that helps to connect. I think with every spot, every type of art, every expression of art/engineering, you have to have a vision for it, right? And you have to be able to see it when you're creating something. It's not a haphazard thing. There is an evolution and there's a linear process. And so, if you can't see it, you can't design it. What's really important is being able to see it and then being able to conceptualize what the board needs to look like, how it's got to fit in the wave, how the wave and the water wraps around the rail, the tail, and how it moves across the bottom with the different contours.

GARY LINDEN

Waves of consequence are when the waves get over 15 feet or 30 foot faces.The conditions are very dangerous or it's some slab surfing or heavy, heavy beachbreak, like Puerto Escondido or Banzai Pipeline. Typically the design will have increased volume to make sure that there's enough flotation to get into the waves in time so you can make the drop. .It can be a matter of life and death; the board has to perform.

I try to ride some big ways myself and I've been designing the boards for myself and then passing those on designs off for other surfers. I'm 72 so I can't push it as far as I was when I was younger. I'd like to thank Dick Brewer for loaning his personal board some years back for my first waves at Waimea Bay and then just being a constant influence in my big wave designs. He was a leader and always will be.

If you got a board that's too light, it may feel good for small surf but it is not gonna feel the same in waves of consequence. It's gotta have that solid feel to it.

It's all about the entry, the acceleration and the release, and then having enough volume. I like the area in the nose, the rail, and the outline. Not so much in the thickness.

I feel that most all waves of consequence have the same design requirements. Getting into the wave is first and foremost and what I've done in the recent years is gone back to more of an eighties style flat deck with a fuller boxy rail. And I find that it has more leverage than a dome deck and that it has flotation in the rails—keeping the rails up, it goes faster.

Mike Latronic Photo Noah Napoleon

You shared your knowledge in the shaping bay, and you lent me your board the first time I surfed Waimea Bay.

you Dick, for everything you’ve done for me and for surfing.

APERTURE

Even the word “vortex” seems cool, try being inside of one.

Moise Photo Mike Harris

Always a favorite to watch and a contender to be the best guy in waves of consequence, Hawaiian Ezekiel Lau applies pure power against power at Sunset Beach. Photo Mike Latronic

Another classic moment at Banzai Pipeline. Koa Smith. Photo Christa Funk

Pound for pound many consider John Florence to be the best all around surfer on the planet and when it comes to his rail game- its undeniable. Sequence Mike Latronic

Enjoy the view, if only for the moment. Tommy Cantrell. Photo Mike Harris

Kolohe Andino always stamps a bit of flair and style into game. Photo Brian Bielmann

The morning light at Off the Wall gives a nice reflection inside and out. Griffin Colapinto seems happy to enjoy the contrasts. Photo Brian Bielmann

Barron Mamiya. Photo Aukai Ng

Photos Brian Bielmann

Ítalo Ferreira. Photo Brian Bielmann

Photo Brian Bielmann

Certain times of year on the Northshore of O'ahu, 'Ehukai sandbar rivals the more photographed locations of Backdoor, Pipe and Rocky Point. Kelly Slater is usually on it when its good. Photo Mike Latronic

Jack Robinson, Backdoor. Photo Brian Bielmann

Unknown. Photo Tony Heff

Huntington Beach dream. Photo Mike Harris

DAYANIHDI

STEPHANIE GILMORE SECURES EIGHTH WORLD

TITLE & FILIPE TOLEDO WINS MAIDEN TITLE

Seven-time WSL Champion Stephanie Gilmore of Australia surfs in Heat 2 of the Title Match at the Rip Curl WSL Finals. Photo by Pat Nolan/World Surf League

History was made at the Rip Curl WSL Finals at Lower Trestles on September 8, 2022. Stephanie Gilmore clinched her eighth world title, becoming the winningest female in surf history. On the men’s side, Filipe Toledo claimed his first world title.

Heading into finals days, it seemed unlikely that Gilmore would win the title. In fact, the odds were so stacked against her that few were even discussing the possibility of the 34-year-old securing the title. In order to do so, Gilmore would have to win five, 35-minute heats against the top four female surfers in the world.

In her first heat, Gilmore took on Brisa Hennessy and things weren’t looking good for the Australian. Hennessy got off to an early heat lead. Over the course of the heat, Gilmore slowly narrowed the Costa Rican’s lead and with 30 seconds left on the clock, she snagged a wave that earned her a 6.83—just what she needed to secure her the win.

In her second match up, Gilmore took on Tatiana Weston-Webb and once again, she finished on top. In the next heat, Gilmore matched up against Johanne Defay. She came out of the gates strong and on her second wave, she scored an 8.83—the combo was enough to keep her on top for the rest of the heat. And

just like that, Gilmore had surfed her way into the final.

In the final, Gilmore took on five-time world champ and Olympic gold medalist

“Sitting in the water next to Carissa I was just admiring her strength and her humbleness,” Gilmore said in her postheat interview. “She’s the best female surfer in my eyes, so to sit there and battle it out for a world title against her was the greatest moment in my career.”

Gilmore’s been rewriting the history books since the beginnings of her career. When Gilmore first joined the CT in 2007 at age 17, she was the youngest athlete to ever join the CT. She went on to win the title that same year, becoming the first surfer to claim and ASP world title in their rookie season. From there, Gilmore went on to be unstoppable, winning titles in 2008, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2018, and her most recent title at Lowers.

Carissa Moore. Moore had been in top form all year and comfortably wore the yellow jersey the majority of the season. But in that final heat, Gilmore displayed some of her best surfing all year and as result, won the heat and in turn, the title.

“I’ve won a lot of titles in different ways,” Gilmore said. “This was the best win I’ve had. To come all the way from fifth and grind it out all the way to the final—I knew it was possible and I could try and conserve some energy and make it work, but I’m against Brisa, Tati, Johanne, and Carissa. They’re all my favorite female surfers and they’re all incredible. I knew it would be tough, but I’m stoked I had a shot at it. Anything’s possible.”

"I knew it would be tough, but I’m stoked I had a shot at it. Anything’s possible.”

Filipe Toledo of Brazil surfs in Heat 2 of the Title Match at the Rip Curl WSL Finals. Photo by Pat Nolan/World Surf League

On the men’s side, Toledo’s story looked a bit different. In a lot of ways, the Brazilian’s win was a long time coming. Freesurf first met Toledo after he’d won the junior title at age 15. It seemed inevitable that Toledo would one day claim a world title—that day has finally come.

Toledo has sat on the cusp of a world title for years. He has 10 CT victories to his name and in 2021, he narrowly missed winning the title to Gabriel Medina. Heading into the Rip Curl WSL Finals, Toledo was wearing the yellow jersey and was the favorite to win due to his expertise at Lower Trestles.

Heading into the finals in the number four position, Italo Ferreira had an underdog performance similar to Gilmore’s. The 2019 world champ was on a terror and took down Kanoa Igarashi,

Ethan Ewing, and Jack Robinson to secure himself a spot in the final.

The all-Brazilian final promised to be a close one, but Ferreira had a slow start. In the best-of-three match up, Toledo took the first heat. In the second heat, Toledo maintained his lead and the surfers split a peak on a wave late in the heat, both landing excellent scores. Ultimately, Toledo came out ahead of Ferreira, securing the win and his maiden world title.

“It doesn’t get much better than this,” Toledo said. “My family, we’ve been doing this for nine years. It’s hard, you get tired, and there are lots of ups and downs, but it pays off in the end.”

“It doesn’t get much better than this,” Toledo said. “My family, we’ve been doing this for nine years. It’s hard, you get tired, and there are lots of ups and downs, but it pays off in the end.”

SURF ARTISTS MAKING WAVES

By Rebecca Parsons

YUKI TOKORO

Abstract Surfboard Painter

Yuki Tokoro moved to Hawai'i from Tokyo, Japan in 2001 to attend school. During her time on O'ahu, she met and married Terry Tokoro, surfboard shaper Wade Tokoro’s brother. Although she was surrounded by surfing, it wasn’t until a few years ago that Yuki decided to take up the sport herself. She quickly fell in love.

A fan of art and painting since she was a kid, Yuki decided to give painting surfboards a go. Five years ago, she painted her first surfboard for a customer. The design was simple—she painted half of the board solid yellow.

“I was so nervous to do that one,” Yuki recalls of painting her first board. “I took so long to do it—now I could do it so fast. But I think it turned out good.”

Fast forward to the present and Yuki is a talented surf artist. She works for and regularly paints boards for Vesso and Tokoro. Sometimes customers place custom orders detailing what they want on the board. Other times, they leave it up to Yuki.

“If I have a lot of time then I like to paint my own designs,” says Yuki. “But I don’t want to hold things up with glassing and have customers wait too long, so it’s nice if they know what they want. But usually, my friends leave it up to me and have me take my time—those are the most fun.”

Although Yuki enjoys all kinds of art, her preference is abstract. She doesn’t draw out her designs ahead of time; she prefers to just go for it. She paints directly on the foam using water based, acrylic paints.

Yuki regularly paddles out at Ala Moana Bowls and sees people riding her boards frequently. Although Yuki has painted more boards than she can keep track of, one of her favorites to date is a line of bright pink boards she painted for Jamie O’Brien. Naturally, Yuki paints her own boards and is currently riding a pink, purple, and yellow abstract design she painted on a Vesso shortboard.

Yuki lives on the east side of O'ahu and is surrounded by nature. She draws inspiration for her designs from the mountains, sky, and beach. When she paints, she lets her subconscious take over, pouring the colors inspired by her environment onto the boards.

JEANNIE CHESSER

Talented Surfer and Airbrush Artist

Jeannie Chesser is the true definition of a surfer. Born and raised in Miami, Florida, she regularly surfed South Beach. In 1971, she moved to O'ahu to chase some “real waves.” When she first made the move, she was painting some of her friends' boards. In 1973, she got a job airbrushing boards for Hawaiian Island Creations.

Over the years, Chesser split her time between surfing and painting. She competed in a number of amateur contests in Hawai'i and in 1992, she was crowned the US champ. In addition to competing, Chesser has served as a contest judge, announcer, surf reporter and of course, an artist and airbrusher.

Although Chesser can paint anything her customers desire, one of her favorite things to paint is flames. To create her designs, she first tapes off the board where the flames are going to go. She layers the tape close to each other and then draws out what the design is going to be and cuts it out with a razor blade. After that, she paints and pulls the tape off once she’s finished.

Over the course of her career, Chesser has painted hundreds of boards. Some are custom orders but for others, she’s given the freedom to be creative. In addition to flames, she enjoys painting flowers, mermaid scales, and under the sea designs.

“I can do whatever people prefer as long as they give me a good idea or drawing or colors that they like,” says Chesser. “I’m happy when the customers happy.”

Chesser has worked as an airbrusher for many different companies over the years and has painted boards for pro surfers like Jackson Bunch, Andy Irons, and of course, her son, Todd Chesser.

Although Chesser is in her early 70s, she still regularly paddles out at Ala Moana Bowls and works at two factories at Sand Island painting boards. For as long as she’s here, Chesser plans to continue doing her two favorite things: surfing and painting.

ASHLEY LLOYD

Santa Cruz’s Sustainable Surfboard Shaper

Ashley Lloyd grew up in Northridge, California and spent her childhood surfing Malibu’s iconic waves. When boards would get dinged, Lloyd and her brother would work together to repair them, but it wasn’t until age 21 that she shaped her first board. Much to her surprise, it floated, and Lloyd slowly perfected her skills as a surfboard shaper.

“Back then I was washing my hands in acetone and glassing the boards by myself,” says Lloyd. “I wasn’t eco conscious at all besides some recycling. A lot has changed as far as my perspective of the world and the impact that we are making on it and just taking care of our precious bodies—that helped start my path making eco boards.”

As alternative and more eco-friendly materials became available, Lloyd began experimenting. As she learned more about the amount of human waste associated with shaping boards and its impact on the environment, she gained motivation to make her boards as sustainable as possible. There was a learning curve to working with the new materials but eventually, Lloyd got the knack for it.

Lloyd began using bio-based epoxy in place of conventional polyester resins. She replaced fiberglass layers with flax. She started recycling her EPS foam blanks through Mako Foam. There was definitely a learning curve to working with the new materials

but eventually, Lloyd got the knack for it. Now, thanks to her commitment to sustainability, Lloyd’s boards proudly carry the ECOBOARD verification from Sustainable Surf.

“The boards are beautiful,” says Lloyd. “They’re strong and it feels good to make an eco-board. They’re not 0% waste, that would be a dream come true someday, but I think we’re heading in the right direction. My customers have been really stoked—they feel good to be riding an eco-board.”

In 2006, Llyod moved to Santa Cruz, California, but a lot of her inspiration for her boards comes from the classic single fins she grew up riding and watching at Malibu. In addition to longboards, Lloyd shapes a lot of mid-lengths. Her priority is to create a board that her customer is happy with and that has a minimal impact on the environment.

“An eco-board is sustainable, strong, beautiful, and surfs well,” says Lloyd. “We all have waste, but I think the more steps we take as individuals to contribute to the momentum to more sustainable life for us and future generations the better. Why wouldn’t we?”

RYDER BIOLOS

Talented Teen Surf Artist

At just sixteen years old, Ryder Biolos has a seriously impressive resume. An artist for Lost Surfboards, she’s painted boards for 5x world champ and Olympic gold medalist Carissa Moore, 2x world champ Tyler Wright, Olympians Caroline Marks and Kolohe Andino, WSL junior champ and 2022 ISA gold medalist Kirra Pinkerton, 2022 Super Girl pro winner Sawyer Lindblad, Mason Ho, Coco Ho, Erin Brooks, Sophia Medina, Noah Beschen, Olympic skateboarding bronze medalist Sky Brown, and many others.

The daughter of Lost Surfboards co-founder Matt Biolos, Biolos spent her childhood going to the factory with her dad. He’d give her mini surfboards to practice painting on and she quickly discovered she was a natural.

“Little by little the surfboards I was painting would become surfboards for people and less of just things that I was making,” says Biolos. “The first person I did a board for was Coco Ho. She’s a good friend and she let her paint her board. It actually turned out pretty good!”

When Biolos painted that board for Coco Ho she was just six years old. By age nine, she was a paid employee at Lost Surfboards.

Biolos credits her parents for her artistic talent. Her dad is a talented artist and her mom is passionate about design, so she believes she got a combination of creativity and artistic talent thanks to them.

Over the years, Biolos spent a lot of time at Lost perfecting her skills and developing her own style. She worked closely with Lost Surfboard artists Terry Shin and Drew Brophy, becoming a talented surfboard artist under their guidance.

Where Brophy favors abstract art, Biolos is more of a perfectionist. To create her designs, she begins by taping out the design or drawing it. Then, she mixes the colors and begins painting. She first paints a black pin line and then paints her design directly onto the foam. Although she’s experimented with shaping, painting is where her talent lies.

“I love Ryder’s art,” says Caroline Marks. “I’ve been fortunate to spend some quality time with her in the shaping room and her artistic talent level is extraordinary, especially for how young she is.”

“When I see the boards I’ve painted being ridden by pro surfers all over the world I think it’s so crazy,” says Biolos. “It’s cool to think I’ve been doing this for so long and now I get to see my boards in the Olympics and winning world titles.”

Although Biolos is only in high school, she’s given a lot of thought to her future. She plans to continue painting surfboards for fun but wants to study design in college. She’s toying with the idea of graphic design, industrial design, interior design, or fashion design and hopes to attend UCLA, NYU, or NYFIT. Regardless of what she chooses, her future is sure to be a bright one.

2022 Moku Hawai'i Hosts Hawaiian Noseriding Classic @ Queens

By Rebecca Parsons Photos: Linda Kea, Liam Nelligan & Aukai Ng

Moku Hawai'i has been a staple in Waikiki since it first opened its flagship store in 1985. Since opening their doors many moons ago, the shop has provided gear, boards, lessons, and more to locals and tourists alike. On September 17th and 18th, they hosted the 2022 Hawaiian Noseriding Classic at Queens in Waikiki.

As the name suggests, the Hawaiian Noseriding Classic is all about noserides. The only contest of its kind, the contest is judged solely based on tip time. Competitor’s boards are marked with tape at the 24-inch line and once they get both feet past the tape the time starts. Once they cross back over the line, the time ends. The goal: noseride for as long as possible.

“This artform and style of surfing is the traditional side of longboarding,” says legendary longboarder Ezra Rodrigues. “But there’s so much progression in it too—you have people riding the nose for as long as they can. When you’re doing that sort of artform, you’re contorting your body—like the soul arch and open arms to slow yourself down. The artform is getting celebrated and elevated.”

Divisions for the contest included boys (under 16), girls (under 16), open men, open women, ALAS pro men (16 invite), MOKU women pro, and team (five person mix team). Lots of local legends showed up and everyone had fun displaying their fancy footwork and best noseriding attempts. Prizes were awarded to the top three in each division and included surfboards, goodies, and gift cards from local shops.

“This contest is unique because it’s specifically judged/ timed on noseriding, where other surf contests are judged on multiple maneuvers,” says local legend Kaniela Stewart. “Noseriding is such an essential part of longboarding because the board is so long and If you can walk up and down the board, balance, and stay on that’s already a hard task—to be able to be up on the front of your board and balanced is super hard to do.”

Kaniela Stewart

Puaiohi Moeani DeFries

Mokulele

Leading online surfing marketplace Akewatu proudly announced that legendary surfer/shaper Simon Anderson, the inventor of the three-fin Thruster, is coming on board as their global ambassador. While Anderson created the Thruster more than 40 years ago, it is still the predominant design used by world champions today.

The Super Girl Pro was held at the Oceanside Pier as an official WSL QS event. The finals came down to defending champ and Olympian Caroline Marks and San Clemente’s Sawyer Lindblad. Lindblad defeated Marks in the final, winning her first cape. For longboarding, the final came down to Honolua Blomfield and Rachael Tilly, with Tilly ultimately walking away victorious.

Carissa Moore’s non-profit, Moore Aloha, hosted their second annual Moore Aloha x Super Girl Pro event. Through the event, 24 young ladies spent the day playing, surfing, and having fun and talked about self love, mindfulness, nurturing kindness, friendship, and learning how to use girl power to give back and take care of the ocean.

Billabong released a new film, Hávamál. Ryan Callinan, Jack Freestone, Luana Silva, Anna Gudauskas and Chris Burkard journey to the Arctic Circle, explore the Scandinavian peninsula, and venture deep into Norway’s countryside of mountains, fjords and glaciers, and score frigid but perfect waves. Chris Burkard served as the trip’s lead photographer and tour guide and the film was directed by Matt Payne.

Two-time world longboard champion Kelia Moniz teamed up with UN/DN LAQR and launched her “Sundazed Collection” on September 23. The collection includes a classic nude nail polish with a bubbly pink twist and an iridescent topper, inspired by the colors of nature that surround Moniz’s home in Hawai'i.

T & C Surf Designs launched a custom YETI collection, featuring three new styles to match your favorite board collection.

The second annual Solento Surf Festival went down in Encinitas from September 22-25. The five-day event was hosted at the La Paloma Theatre and Seaside Reef and included film screenings, live music, panel conversations, surf contests, local vendors, and world-class surfers.

On Tuesday, September 20, the Bay Area’s Cyril Derreumaux, became the second person to kayak from California to Hawai'i. The 2,400-mile journey took the 46-year-old 91 days to complete.

Fisherman spotted a rare megamouth shark approximately 30 miles off the San Diego coast. Val Costescu, David Stabile, and Andrew Chang captured the shark on film when it swam near their boat.

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Pacifc Islands

On October 1, the Kahana Foundation launched a new film: ReUnite US. The film is centered around climate change, plastic pollution, and how a group of individuals joined together in Honolulu, Hawai'i to fight for a ban of single-use plastics and a more sustainable future.

The bumblebee became officially classified as a fish according to a Californian supreme court. Although the ruling may seem strange, it ultimately gives the Fish and Game Commission the right to list invertebrates as endangered and threatened species and will help protect bumblebees.

Firewire Surfboards announced that they will no longer purchase FCS fin boxes and will exclusively use Futures fin boxes looking forward. The change will take a year to go into full effect.

The 2022-2023 big wave season officially kicked off with the Mavericks Festival on October 1 in Half Moon Bay. The familyfriendly event included a morning paddle out, a live rescue demo by the U.S. Coast Guard, live music, and good food, with lots of talented big wave surfers in attendance.

Former CT surfer Chris Davidson passed away on September 24 after an altercation at a bar in New South Whales. The 45-year-old was treated by paramedics at the scene before being transported to Kempsey Hospital where he passed. RIP.

Moku

THE BOARDROOM SHOW

Showcasing the latest in surfboard design and surf equipment from around the globe. The Boardroom highlights the surfboard manufacturing industry. A gathering of like minded enthusiasts who are drawn by an authentic love for riding waves and the crafts that move us along those waves.

Foam will was flying as eight shapers honor surfboard shaper Timmy Patterson during the Icons of Foam Shape-off at the Boardroom International Surfboard Show presented by US Blanks.

The eight shapers: Tokuda-san (Japanese Boardroom champion), Robert Weiner (Roberts Surfboards), John Simon (Simon Shapes), Jason Bennett (Chemistry Surfboards), Rick Rock, Sylivo Tico (Silver Surfboards - Brazil), Tim Stamps (Stamps Surfboards), Matt Kinoshita (Kazuma SurfboardsHawai'i) face off in man-on-man heats within a bracket format competition. Each shaper is given 90 minutes to replicate a classic Timmy Patterson surfboard. Judges include Roger Hinds, Matt Biolos, Pat Rawson and of course the honoree Timmy Patterson.

“I’m excited to see my friends go to head-to-head, “ said Patterson. “I’ve competed in this event myself twice, and it’s not as simple as walking into your comfortable shaping room and getting busy. There’s way more pressure. Plus the boards I’ve picked for them to copy are not easy.”

Congrats Rick Rock this years Icons of Foam Champion. 3rd place Brazils Sylvio Tico. All semifinalists received a gorgeous golden engraved NIXON watch. Timmy Patterson, Pat Rawson & Roger Hinds templating a US Blanks for the final heat. Beth won a killer 6’ 6” Rawson Stepup shaped by Ryan Burch.

Ricks mom, the champion, and 2022 Icon of Foam honoree Timmy Patterson .

3rd place Brazils Sylvio Tico.

North

LAST

Hawaiian surfer and skateboarder Kalani David passed away on September 17 while surfing in Costa Rica. David had a condition called Wolff-Parkinson-White syndrome and passed away after having a seizure in the water. He was 24 years old. Look for a full feature next issue. Photo Brent Bielmann