v19n4 by Freesurf Magazine

in the

MOMENT

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Jack Robinson

Photo: Brent Bielmann

FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA

F R E E

P A R K I N G

The beauty and the beast. Even on what is considered a flawless day at Backdoor, the gnar is ever prevalent. A minefield of boils indicating that just a mere few feet below lurks the treacherous Pipeline reef. Undaunted, Imai deVault casually navigates this Backdoor gauntlet. Photo - Ryan “Chachi” Craig

C O V E R

S T O R Y

Jack Robinson, Haleiwa Photos - Brent Bielmann

It’s funny, in skateboarding it's a mortal sin to run a photo of something that isn’t a make - especially on the cover. Skaters are sure to have either photographic proof in the form of a sequence, or shoot a second angle with video. Surfing on the other hand hasn’t been nearly as zealous in its demands for photographic purity. Heck, there've been many surfers who have made their careers by pulling into closeouts and boosting fly away airs. Understandably, surfing is on an ever changing playing field, and outside of wave pools, there generally isn’t a second chance to nail the make. For us, a beautiful photo is a beautiful photo. And, we forgo the burden of proof. But, when you have an incredible image, like this month's cover shot of Jack Robinson’s lofty punt at Hale’iwa, and the proof that it's a make, it makes it all the sweeter.

V O L U M E

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N U M B E R

Editorial Publisher

West Coast Distribution & Sales

Mike Latronic

Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128

Editor

East Coast Distribution

Andrew Oliver

Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395

Photo Director Brian Bielmann

Wholesale Inquiries & Hawai‘i Distribution (808) 638-7395

Art Director John Weaver

Staff Shooters Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Andrew

Business Administration

Oliver, John Weaver, Jake Zielinski

Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Contributing Writers Rebecca Parsons, Jenn Tokin

Account Executive Bert Valdez Annie Sutter

Contributing Photographers Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi

Distribution Manager

Das, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick

Jamie Baradaran

Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa

Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke

@freesurfmag FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine. com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2020

TA B L E

O F

C O N T E N T S

Free Parking

Cover Story

Editor's Note

Hurley Pro Sunset Beach presented by SHISEIDO

Buffalo's Big Board Classic

Ryan " Chachi" Craig

Portugal Dispatch

MEO Pro Portugal presented by Rip Curl

Industry Notes

Last Look

Photo John Weaver

DE S I G N ED F O R TH E DE S TI N AT I ON

T RV L R EXPEDITION S HORTS

ELI OLSON O’N E I L L I N C. 2022 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M

AD J U STA B L E C U STO M F I T WA I ST

F ULLY PACK A B LE BACK P OCK E T

WELDED SID E ZIP POC KET

HYPERFREA K ST R E TCH WITH CO R DU R A®

S H O P T H E T R V L R E X P E D I T I O N S H O RT S AT T H E S E PA RT I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S : H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N

F E AT U R E S

Buffalo’s Big Board Surfing Classic

Profile / Ryan "Chachi" Craig

Portugal Dispatch

E D I T O R ' S

N O T E

Photo: Ryan "Chachi" Craig

In the Moment By Andrew Oliver

Each month we assemble what can be best described as a collection of moments. Obviously space and resources are limited, so we have to make choices as to what moments make the cut. With that said, we do our best to, at the very least, curate moments that represent the endless stoke that surfing provides. As with this month's cover story, and the discussion of what is real, or a make, we’re well aware that surfing is a fleeting activity, but in each of our personal pursuits of these “moments” does it really matter if they are genuine to anyone else besides ourselves? As they say, the reward is in the journey, not the destination. The vast majority of us will never come close to sticking an 8ft punt like cover boy Jack Robinson, or any of the other incredible feats throughout this issue. But, we find joy in the simple act of paddling out, taking off, and heading down the line, no matter how humble that sequence may be. Every moment of it is one well spent. While every step of our personal journeys are worth cherishing, and that joy is meant to be shared, we can agree that some moments are objectively more remarkable than others. Pro surfers, or any experts in their respective fields, inspire others in the mastery of their craft. In this issue, we celebrate the mastery on both sides of the “moment.” From Brent Bielmanns capture of Jack Robinson on page one, to uncle Brian Bielmann’s photo dispatch of the World Tour and big wave journey men and women in Portugal, to Ryan “Chachi” Craig’s remarkable Hawai’i winter portfolio - the trained eyes of these surf shooters immortalize the moments that transcend the personal and verge into the inspirational. No matter where your moments fall on the spectrum of the surf experience we hope that those which we celebrate in our pages inspire you to seek out and push your own boundaries. The moment is yours.

No waves, no worries!

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Sunset Gun

‘SurfSkates sold only in surf shops’

N E W S

E V E N T S

Brisa Hennessy and Barron Mamiya Win Hurley Pro Sunset Beach Presented by SHISEIDO

Barron Mamiya Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

Brisa Hennessy (CRI) and Barron Mamiya (HAW) won the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach presented by SHISEIDO, the second stop on the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour (CT), in six-to-eight foot surf. This win marks the first CT victory for both surfers, and for Hennessy, the first time a Costa Rican has won a CT event.

22-year old Hennessy earned her first CT victory after besting Manuel in the Final and rookie Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) in the Semifinals today at Sunset Beach.

minutes as the Kauian went for it all on a major maneuver and fell from the top to the bottom. The Costa Rica representative found one last opportunity and turned in a 7.00 to secure her a massive victory, the country’s first on the CT.

A Final with hefty implications unfolded as Hennesy and local charger Manuel battled to see who would take the No. 1 spot on the World Rankings. Hennessy started off her first-ever CT Final with an early lead but Manuel’s opening 6.33 put her right back in the heat and quick in-and-out to take the lead before making a priority error halfway through the affair. Hennessy’s 5.23 put her back into the lead and required a 4.73 of Manuel heading into the final six

Barron Mamiya wins the Final at the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach. Photo Tony Heff/WSL

“I’ve just dreamed about this moment and never thought it was possible,” said Hennessy. “It was an honor to surf against Malia. I feel like she has such an amazing connection out here and just all the people in my life, thank you. This is the reason I was able to do this today.” “You definitely reflect and think about all those moments that brought you here and made you who you are,” added Hennessy. “I barely made it back into the CT. I had to go to the Challenger Series and that was an emotional rollercoaster. I think it’s the people that are behind you and in your village that make you who you are and really are your light. My family, my friends, my mom and dad, my grandparents, Glen Hall who was with me since the beginning in my rookie year and has seen me grow

N E W S

and has seen me at my lowest. Costa Rica’s given me so much, it’s literally given me the gift of surfing. The gift of the ocean and the gift of connection to so many people around the world. I hope I can carry the love of Pura Vida around the world and hopefully inspire people.”

E V E N T S

Wildcard Mamiya Takes Down CT Veterans at Men’s Hurley Pro Sunset Beach Presented by SHISEIDO The men’s Final also featured a battle for the yellow jersey between wildcard Mamiya and CT veteran Igarashi that unfolded in historic fashion. Mamiya is the first men’s wildcard to win an event since 2008.

Manuel came into the season as a WSL wildcard and now sits at No. 2 in the world. “It was a tough end to my year coming so close,” said Manuel.”I’m very thankful to Jessi and everyone at WSL for giving me an opportunity to have a wildcard in this first half of the year. It really gave me motivation to prove to myself that I still wanted it and I’m here. I’m back.”

Brisa Hennessy. Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

Brisa Hennessy of Costa Rica surfs in Heat 2 of the Semifinals at the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach . Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

A slow start gave way to fireworks as Igarashi put pressure on the wildcard after a priority mistake by Mamiya, who recovered brilliantly with back-to-back scoring waves to accrue a 15.00 heat total and left his seasoned competitor in need of a near-perfect 9.50. But the local North Shore competitor wasn’t done yet and dropped the hammer on a major, two-turn combination to earn an 8.83 and leave Igarashi in need of two new waves with just two minutes remaining. “I can’t believe it, I literally can’t believe it,” said Mamiya. “I thought Pipe was going to be the event I was going to do really well in. I’m so comfortable at Pipe and I wasn’t really super prepared for this event but in my mind I just had to adapt to whatever the

T O E N T E R V I S T: L O C A L M O T I O N H AWA I I . C O M

conditions are and figure it out. It doesn’t even feel real. I want to thank all my friends and family, my mom and my dad sacrificed so much for me, and I want to thank Shaun Ward too. He’s been with me since day one, and he’s really helped me so much through a lot of tough times.”

Malia Manuel of Hawaii surfs in the Final at the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach. Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

“At the end of last year I was really bummed with my performance in 2021,” added Mamiya. “I didn’t make a heat on the QS and was coming off an injury. There were just a lot of things not going my way. I wasn’t even on Tour and got into Pipe through a wildcard and got another wildcard here so I’m just super stoked.” Eventual runner-up Igarashi battled his way to the Final after matching with even threat Jack Robinson (AUS), 2019 Vans World Cup winner here at Sunset, in phenomenal fashion. The 24-year-old then had to overpower Ethan Ewing (AUS), who looked to be unstoppable in his event run, but Igarashi was able to score a near-perfect 9.03 (out of a possible 10) and left the Australian talent in need of an excellent score heading into the final minutes.

Hurley Pro Sunset Beach presented by SHISEIDO Women’s Final Results: 1 - Brisa Hennessy (CRI) 12.83 2 - Malia Manuel (HAW) 7.46 Men’s Final Results: 1 - Barron Mamiya (HAW) 17.00 2 - Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) 12.33

Women’s Semifinals Results: HEAT 1: Malia Manuel (HAW) 12.66 DEF. Gabriela Bryan (HAW) 10.23 HEAT 2: Brisa Hennessy (CRI) 15.17 DEF. Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) 8.23 Men’s Semifinals Results: HEAT 1: Barron Mamiya (HAW) 10.37 DEF. Caio Ibelli (BRA) 9.80 HEAT 2: Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) 16.20 DEF. Ethan Ewing (AUS) 15.83

The current World No. 2 will now look for his second-career CT win heading into the MEO Portugal Pro after falling short to Mamiya’s Cinderella story. “I’m actually really happy,” said Igarashi. “Coming to Hawaii for so many years now, growing up in Huntington Beach, this has always been the place where I’ve really needed to work. I’ve always had a lot of struggles and just with my surfing, and over the years I’ve had to really work on it. Now just coming here and seeing so many familiar faces, I have so many friends here now and it just means a lot because somewhere where I felt so uncomfortable before I’m able to feel a little bit more comfortable and get some scores, and get some results.”

(L to R) Brisa Hennessy of Costa Rica, Barron Mamiya of Hawaii, Malia Manuel of Hawaii and Kanoa Igarashi of Japan the Finalists at the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach. Photo Tony Heff/WSL

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B U F FA LO ’ S B I G B OA R D

SURFING CLASSIC Pomai Hoapili

The 45th Annual Buffalo’s Big Board Surfing Classic kicked off by honoring the late and widely beloved community leader Anthony “Ants” Guerrero at Makaha Beach. The annual event, which started in 1977, stands the test of time as one of the most colorful, unique and diverse wave riding events in the history of surfing. It was founded upon the desire to reflect and celebrate Hawaiian roots and heritage. Buffalo “Richard” Keaulana, the patriarch of the Keaulana family designed some of the different divisions of the event himself with help from his family and friends. Moves like the “dead cockroach,” the “coffin” and the “Buddha.” You kind of have to see it to believe it and I mean that in a good way. If stances like these weren’t enough to show the audience at Makaha Beach the uniqueness of the Buffalo Big Board Classic, the heat categories certainly did. Where else can surfers compete using paipo boards, Alai’a boards, bully boards, canoes, and SUPSquatches? And where else can an entire surfing community, all donning “Buffalo Big Board Classic” t-shirts, greet and embrace a living legend of the sport as if it were a Christmas family reunion?

(back to front) Keoni Keaulana, Damien Reyes, Chelsea Bizic, Ili Pennyku 24

JACKSON BUNCH

SURF SP H C

198

EST

YEARS

S ORT

HI-TE

2 · M AU

Mikey O'Shaughnessy

A reunion is exactly what the Buffalo Big Board Classic has been for forty-five years on the sands of Makaha Beach, where members of the global surf community gather to compete in a contest unlike any other. “The Buffalo contest is timeless,” said renown lifeguard and bodyboarder Mark Cunningham “The cast of characters gets a little older, and there’s always a younger generation coming up. Forty plus years is an incredible body of work, so hats off to the Keaulanas, the DeSotos and the entire Westside community that puts on this wonderful event that is so giving to the surfing community and to the surfing world.”

“I’ve been here for at least forty of Buff’s contests, and they just get better every year,” said Quiksilver’s Glen Moncata. “This is more of a Hawaiian luau than a surf contest. If you walk down the road you’ll even see the roasting of a pig… It’s more of a friendship than it is a competition.”

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“I’m usually in at least 8, maybe 9 divisions, really honing all the skills,” said Duane DeSoto, winner of the 2010 Oxbow ASP World Longboard Championship. “I get an opportunity to challenge Mark Cunningham and Don King in bodysurfing, there’s also the opportunity to come up in canoe surfing against all the best steersmen. It’s super competitive, but it’s also super friendly. I’m with my whole family, everybody’s cheering, camping, we’re having fun cooking– it brings us together. There’s no other beach that carries this type of ‘ohana.” “Every year is special, it just magnifies every year,” said Brian Keaulana, Buff’s eldest son. “From the first to now, it’s practicing traditions and the intent of my father. When he first sailed in 1976 from Hawaii to Tahiti on Hokule’a, he had the vision of bringing back a culture of family, values, bringing back the whole beach culture to what you see today. Every year, there was more improvement, more fun and more laughter, along with a sharing of food, a sharing of knowledge. That’s the treasure chest that my parents have given me and this community. The ocean community isn’t separated by land, but connected by water. All people show up and they become part of our family.”

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ST R A I G H T S H O OT E R P H OTO G R A P H Y P R O F I L E / R YA N “ C H A C H I ” C R A I G

Introduction by Andrew Oliver Interview by Mike Latronic

Kaimana Henry 30

urf photography as a full-time career can be a serious grind, and many of the photographers that thrived in the era when print magazines dominated the scene have struggled to adapt to the drastic changes in the industry. Veteran lensman Ryan “Chachi” Craig, has been at the forefront of surf photography for some time now, and is one of best examples of someone who's made the transition to the digital realm gracefully. Previously, working as a staff photographer at Transworld and Surfer Magazine, Chachi was well accustomed to the strong support of the mags. While some veterans are paralyzed by a jaded nostalgia for yesteryear, Chachi brings the energy of a rookie to his work, finding joy and inspiration in honing his craft.

Alex Gray, Off the Wall

his North Shore season saw a historic run of epic waves, and you’d be hard pressed to find any photographer that spent more time in the water than Chachi. Beyond just being in the spot, Chachi’s focus on composition and framing the action to best capture the drama of the wave and the surrounding landscape are some of the signatures to his art, whether he wants to call it that or not. How did you get into photography? In high school, I never actually had a camera. But, I took a photography class, borrowed a camera, and remembered it being pretty fun. I couldn't tell you exactly why. I didn't have a parent who was a photographer. I don't recall having too many friends that were photographers. This is pre cell phones having good photography equipment embedded within. I think it was just, I took a lot of ceramics classes. My dad was a glass maker. And, arts are always fun as electives in my opinion. So I don't know why I took the class, but I can tell you that I absolutely loved the class. It was a good way to spend hours of your day at school, but not feel like you were at school.

Pipeline from the Volcom House

he dark room was a magic escape for me. I was absolutely infatuated with developing your role of film in the dark, putting it through the spool. And then through all the different processes in the dark room, printing it, putting it through the developing bath, the fixer, all that stuff, watching your print come to life, literally in front of your eyes. But that was all landscapes to start off. I grew up surfing a little bit, but bodyboarding more than anything else. And I would never have wanted to take days off to shoot when I could have been getting barreled. So that came a little later. You're a full-time photographer now, do you shoot more barrels than you ride. Oh, significantly more. Did, how did you make that, um, uh, evolution? There's no like cut and dry answer to that. I'm not one of those people that went in a certain route with a certain mindset and a timeline, and then either checked that box or didn't. For me, it was an injury initially that led to surf photography. I was an avid sponger, loved it. Didn't really love shooting anything surf related, because I wanted to be in the surf. And then I fractured one of my vertebrates body boarding and was sidelined for the better part of eight or nine months. And in that process was like, “What's the best way to feel like I'm still in the rhythm of the surf world?” Shoot your friends surfing, and that's what I did. And then I kind of never really had the same consistency surfing after that. I had a lot of pain in my back for years after that. So getting the tube got replaced with getting the shot. We all know how at least surfers know how addictive being in the tube is and chasing that. But there's a similar

Keahi De Aboitiz, Off the Wall

passion to photography and getting that right moment. What's the most gratifying place for you now with photography? I mean, it depends on where you are. In Hawaii, for example, there's a million people surfing here and they all rip. So my personal desire to get barreled out here is kind of now in the background to shooting people on good waves. If you're in the middle of nowhere and you're with a couple buddies, I want to trade back and forth. I don't want to be behind the lens the whole time, but oddly enough here, I don't really have the desire to surf like I would at home. The opportunity to shoot the type of caliber guys that are here is kind of unique to just here. So I am just like full blown addicted to shooting as often as I possibly can. There's a certain level of

adrenaline being in that whole environment and just seeing a like an eight foot wave at Backdoor.

t's the next step removed from maybe getting barreled yourself, feeling that energy and that power and seeing those guys that are fully capable of maximizing these waves is pretty cool. Let's be honest, if I did have the chance to surf these waves, I'm definitely not gonna be getting barreled like Kelly or John. So it's cool to watch someone read a wave like that, surf a wave like that, and then be able to photograph that front and center. We'll call it the next best thing. I don't know if it is, but we'll call it the next best thing.

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Cesar Petroni, Backdoor

You've got a discerning eye, how do you think that evolved to where it is? Landscape photos, first and foremost landscape photos, were the initial photos in my photography journey. In Hawai’i, I'm probably more of a water photographer. If I have my choice, I want to be involved. I want to be in the scene, but a lot of other places I find myself gravitating more towards land. There's different backdrops. There's a lot of different ways to shoot certain stuff. That doesn't mean I won't shoot water photography. It just means that I really enjoy shooting land photography as well. And I feel like all of my initial, decent feedback within the surf photography world was compositionally based. It wasn't like, “Oh, you can swim in a decent size surf.” It was like, “Oh, that aesthetically, is great. It's like a landscape photo with a surfer.” I would hear that kind of comparison. Growing up in Santa Cruz and having Highway One north of Santa Cruz being wide open and having this unique ability feel like you're exploring a new coastline every time you go up there. I love that whole home zone of mine and having Big Sur in the south. I just felt like landscape photography came naturally. And then by throwing a surfer into this scene, that would already be pretty enough. And if you can find a wedge with a guy doing a big blow tail, it kind of was a no brainer. So that was the first pathway I chose, well before I got more into water photography. It was kind of being a landscape photographer with surfers added to the mix. In other words, it is an art to you. There's art behind it, there's a decision. There's a lot of people who can pull the trigger. We got all these auto functions, but you are putting your art into it? Maybe. I don't know how much I like the term art for photography, at least with surf photography. Personally, I love good compositions. So, I guess if you associate art with composition, that term works. Having a good compositional eye I think is what makes or breaks, good photography, surf, landscape, other adventure stuff. I just love good composition for whatever that's worth. What's on the horizon for you, with your photography? I have had an informal kind of to-do list and goal list and I suppose it's ever changing. You’ll start with something, then maybe you check that box and you reevaluate what you consider to be the next dream and goal. For the longest time I was working for a magazine and I did that for a number of years. I worked for Transworld briefly and then worked for Surfer for five years before they went under. And, that's kind of all I ever wanted to do. And then when I was at Surfer, I thought it'd be cool if I could work with a brand consistently. So you'll be on retainer with a bigger clothing brand, or wetsuit brand, or whatever, and the work is set up.

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his year Hawaii's been really good. For the first time in a long time, I kind of came over here with jobs already in place. This season, I've had a couple different jobs working with Volcom, and O'Neil, where your job is to get as much content as possible. I've been kind of a glorified freelancer for my whole career. I never really had one specific brand that I've worked with. It’s been mags more so than brands, but this year with a little bit of work lined up before coming over and that made it a kind of a different feel. I didn't feel as much pressure, I suppose, to make back what I spent while I'm here. So this year has been really good for that.

John John Florence, Rockpiles

I couldn't really tell you about the next couple years. I have no idea. I really like where I'm at. It's not that I don't have lofty goals, but I don't like feeling that lack of contentment. It’s like if you could sign a $85,000 contract as a surfer and have never been paid before. But, immediately they are like, “Well, I wish it was $150,000.” And it's like, you've taken your whole life to get to where you are. And instead of being stoked, you're kind of wishing it was more. So I'm fairly content.

'd like to keep this type of Hawaii season that I've had, where I have more work than I can handle. And there's been more days to swim than you even want. Those are good problems to have. I'd love the consistency of working with a few of the brands. But yeah, I'm really happy with where I am right now. Um, one personal thing I'd like to do is have a website, sell some prints. I've never done that in my entire life. I'll probably be laughed at, by my peers for that, but that would be like a realistic thing that I think would be smart for me to have in the future. And, I have a couple print ideas, a few things that I think could be unique to my photography that I wanna dabble in.

Pua Desoto

Moana Jones Wong

Portugal Dispatch W I T H

B R I A N

B I E L M A N N

On a last minute whim, North Shore veteran photographer and Freesurf Photo Editor Brian Bielmann hops over to the old world and brings back the goods.”The cool thing about it is that there's so much surf in Portugal that as soon as that swell died down a bit, all the other breaks were working really good. And all the pros were in town for the contest. So it just made it like double bang for your buck,” said Bielmann. “I got to shoot Nazare with all the big wave guys. And then the very next day I was shooting all the surfers from the pro tour warming up on all the free surf days before the event.”

^ robably one of the most viral moments of the World Tour being in town was this air of Jack Robinson in front of a bodyboarder, and Jack’s apology. But, what wasn't clear in the video is that the bodyboarder unknowingly dropped in on Jack, “The thing is though he took off from behind, and the guy dropped in on him,” said Bielmann. “So he passed him up, did a huge air and then landed it. And it was just the fact that he pulled it off without coming down on him was incredible. It was super cool because he just kinda gave him that little hand jive thing, and there were no bad vibes about it, but it was just so crazy. How did that air right above that kid?”

They don’t call it Supertubos for nothing. Jordy Smith Locked into a Portuguese drainer. “It's crazy how late they had to drop in and how tight they had to pull to make those barrels,” said Bielmann. “These were super duper technical type barrels.”

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“ eniche is such a chill town,” said Bielmann. “Everybody's super laid back and it's just such a relaxed, great vibe. And the beaches are just insane. They're these super long beaches and there's just surf every freaking place, just everywhere you go. With different types of breaks everywhere.” Tatiana Weston Webb, pre-WCT victory (top), local flavor (bottom right), Italo post-surf glow (bottom left)

“I

t was crazy because that wave had such a heavy takeoff and barrel, and they were all coming out doing big airs or big hacks and things like that. The talent level on the CT is incredible,” said Bielmann. Zeke Lau (top) and Nat Young (bottom) making their mark in the Portuguese waters.

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“I

n some ways it was like I was back on the North Shore with the whole tour being there. But I can tell it's one of those places that everybody really enjoys being. I'm sure if it was for the contest, and they were just going on a surf trip, they'd be going to all different spots, because they’re are so many to choose from. But of course everyone wanted to just practice for the event, and that was great for me,” said Bielmann. John John Florence (middle) and Matthew McGilvray (bottom) making practice look fun.

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Griffin Colapinto and Tatiana Weston-Webb Claim Victories

Griffin Colapinto and at MEO Pro Portugal Presented by Rip Curl Tatiana Weston-Webb Claim Victories at MEO Pro Portugal Presented by Rip Curl

Griffin Colapinto surfs in the Final at the MEO Pro Portugal. Photo by Damien Poullenot/WSL

Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) and Griffin Colapinto (USA) have won the MEO Pro Portugal presented by Rip Curl, the third stop of the World Surf League (WSL) 2022 Championship Tour (CT), claiming victory in the Finals against Lakey Peterson (USA) and Filipe Toledo (BRA) respectively, held in three-to-four foot surf at Supertubos.

A full five consecutive days of surfing have taken competitors through all the different moods of Supertubos, from windy heavy surf to the perfection of yesterday’s barrels, to culminate with today’s glassy and rippable peaks for the Finals.

“For me, the beginning of the year was such a bad start and it was at two venues I thought I would do really well at,” she continued. “So for me, I know God has a plan and I will just trust in it and keep surfing and trying my best and believing in myself. That’s the nature of every competition, you just need to continue believing in yourself no matter what.”

Tatiana Weston-Webb Claims Third CT Career Win, Makes Into WSL Top 5

In the Final, Weston-Webb got busy early and found a good set wave to lay down two big turns for a 7.33 (out of a possible 10) and the lead. Peterson replied with a 7.10 of her own and continued to push, finding another good score on backhand snaps to turn the heat midway through. Both surfers kept multiplying their chances, paddling for every wave coming through the lineup and giving the judging panel a lot to think about, with forehand and backhand combinations of turns on the clean little peaks of Supertubos.

Claiming a career-third win on the Championship Tour, the Brazilian bounces back in a big way after a deceiving start to her season where she was eliminated twice in equal 9th place at Pipeline and Sunset. Weston-Webb has moved up to 4th place on the season rankings heading into the last couple of events before the inaugural mid-season cut narrows the field down after Australia. “I’m just so grateful. God always has a plan and I just trusted in Him,” Weston-Webb said. “Honestly, I just had so much fun out there! Lakey and I had such a great battle back and forth, I was really stoked just to be out there. I think I can do anything I put my mind to. That’s the beauty of surfing and the beauty of just trusting and believing in yourself, if you have that mental ability to just overcome those obstacles that put you down."

The Brazilian eventually found another gem to perform on her forehand to post an excellent 8 point ride and take the win in Portugal. Peterson placed runner-up at Supertubos for the second consecutive

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E V E N T S No matter what, you’re always going to be learning and that’s my favorite part of the sport that it grows you as a person. Win or lose, you’re growing.” The runner-up in the world last season, Toledo continued to impress and collected another major result in Portugal. Winner in 2015 in Peniche, today’s runnerup finish will vault him up into the Top 5 conversation in fourth position early in the season.

Tatiana Weston-Webb. Photo Damien Poullenot/WSL

time after a final lost to Caroline Marks (USA) in 2019. The Californian had an opportunity to grab the yellow jersey with a win in Portugal but will instead head to Australia ranked 3rd in the world. Coming back from an injury that sidelined her for most of the 2021 season, Peterson proved if anybody doubted that she’s back where she belongs among the very best surfers in the world. “It’s almost harder when you get so close, you’re right there and miss out on the win,” Peterson admitted. “It was a great heat with Tati, I’m stoked to be at the top of the overall rankings especially heading into Australia, Bells is like my second home now. It’s a great start, bummed I didn’t get the win, but congrats to Tati, she’s a really deserving champion and it was great to have a heat with her. I’m happy with my performance, but definitely hungry for more.” Griffin Colapinto Claims First Championship Tour Win in HighOctane Final

calm state where it hasn’t even set in. It’s so cool, I’m just trying to take in seeing Kolohe (Andino) and all my friends come up to me after the final.” Colapinto earned his very first CT win in fantastic fashion, scoring deep barrels earlier this week, nailing the first perfect 10 point ride of the season last night on a massive air, and sealing the deal with brilliant rail work today. After a slow start in Hawaii, the Californian jumped 20 spots up to 7th on the WSL rankings after the completion of event No.3.

A quiet start to the men’s Final was quickly forgotten when Filipe Toledo (BRA) posted the first good score for a combination of backhand quick snaps to build an early lead. Griffin Colapinto (USA) stayed patient and waited for the bigger set waves to push his

“The beachbreaks of California paid off,” Colapinto added. “I was training in these exact conditions so it’s funny that we ended up doing the Final in this. I just can’t believe the people I had to go through to get to this win, it’s as good as it gets. Everything I’ve been doing has paid off. It’s crazy after the first two events, I didn’t make it past round three and it was really hard with that mid-year cut coming up, so it was a hard one mentally, but I believe in the process and trust the unknown.

backside turns and stayed in the heat with a big score of his own. Both surfers went back-andforth and grabbed the lead off each other multiple times but eventually the Californian found the edge with his vertical attack of the lefts for the win. “It’s so weird you just get in this mode where you’re not even thinking about it,” Colapinto said. ”Even winning doesn’t feel like I thought it would, I’m still in this 56

“I’m really happy to be back here in Peniche, Portugal,” Toledo said. “It’s a place where I feel very comfortable and the people are so welcoming. I just love it here, I guess that’s why I always get good results. The entire week just surfing and having fun with the boys and the waves were firing. Congrats to Griff, Tati, Lakey and everyone who have put on amazing performances, it’s been inspiring to watch.” MEO Pro Portugal Presented by Rip Curl Men’s Semifinals Results: SF 1: Filipe Toledo (BRA) 13.67 def. Italo Ferreira (BRA) 12.66 SF 2: Griffin Colapinto (USA) 12.40 def. John John Florence (HAW) 10.50 MEO Pro Portugal Presented by Rip Curl Women’s Semifinal Results: SF 1: Lakey Peterson (USA) 12.34 def. Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 12.00 SF 2: Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 10.76 def. Carissa Moore (HAW) 10.17 MEO Pro Portugal Presented by Rip Curl Men’s Final Results: 1 - Griffin Colapinto (USA) 14.34 2 - Filipe Toledo (BRA) 14.20 MEO Pro Portugal Presented by Rip Curl Women’s Final Results: 1 - Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 15.33 2 - Lakey Peterson (USA) 14.27

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I N D U ST RY N OTES R U S S I A N S U R F I N G F E D E R AT I O N I S S U E S S TAT E M E N T A F T E R I SA BA N S R U S S I A N AT H L E T E S In the first week of March, the ISA announced it had decided to impose strict sporting exclusions on athletes and officials from Russia and that it stands in full solidarity with Ukraine. The ban is in line with the International Olympic Committee’s (IOC) recommendations. It means that “no athletes and officials from Russia will be invited to participate or attend ISA events to participate or attend ISA events until further notice.” In addition, the ISA events in Russia for the foreseeable future.” In response to the ISA ban, Russia issued a statement regarding the position on the sanctions that all Russian athletes fell under due to the current political situation in the world, stating: “Following the Russian Olympic Committee and in support of our talented athletes, we want to note that sport cannot be politicized; sport unites, does not discriminate, and cannot act as a tool of manipulation; the exclusion of Russian athletes from the international competitions is illegal and contrary to Olympic principals. “For our part, we will immediately send our application to the International Surfing Federation (ISA) and the European Surfing Federation in order to protect the rights of our athletes to participate in international competitions and take all possible measures to stop discrimination.”

WSL SUSPENDS JOEL TUDOR AFTER SOCIAL MEDIA CALL OUT If you’re an active observer of pro surfing and engaged in its social presence, you’ve most likely seen the drama between reigning world longboard champion, Joel Tudor, and the WSL. Tudor is without a doubt one of the most influential and stylish surfers to hit the water and if you follow him you’re probably already aware of his no bs presence on social media. This time, it seems his discussions directed towards WSL officials have gone too far, getting him suspended from all surf-related League events, effective immediately. His posts called officials out for issues ranging from equal pay disputes to the controversy of wildcard surfer Moana Wong, winning Pipe this year but not earning herself a spot to compete for the World Title. Are these baseless accusations of corruption or is he just saying what everyone’s thinking?

KOA SMITH’S ‘RESURFACING’ FILM HITS SCREENS In new film, ‘Resurfacing’ Koa Smith opens up about his traumatic brain injury, depression, suicidal contemplation, and how psychedelics helped guide him and put him on a path to healing. Produced by Mud/Wtr, you can watch the film now www.mudwtr.com/films

M O O R E A LO H A I S S TA RT I N G A N E W TRADITION! Carissa Moore’s charitable foundation, Moore Aloha, has been hard at work empowering the next generation to live authentic, be fearless and lead with love. Now, they’re starting a new tradition. On the first of every month there will be an opportunity to earn a scholarship of $200 for a written response to an essay prompt. Participants will have until the 15th of every month to submit their essay and the recipient will be chosen and announced at the end of every month via Instagram. 58

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For the past few years, many local surf contests have been cancelled or postponed. This summer we welcome the news that Local Motion's Surf Into Summer as well as T& C Grom Fest are back. T&C Gromfest Queen's Waikiki June 4th & 5th Local Motion’s SURF INTO SUMMER Ala Moana Bowls June 11-12 Visit localmotionhawaii.com and tcsurf.com for more info. T O E N T E R V I S T: L O C A L M O T I O N H AWA I I . C O M

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“It was a very last minute decision to go to Portugal,” said FreeSurf Photo Editor Brian Bielmann. “ I knew Nazare was gonna possibly be the biggest it's been in 10 years. So I just decided I couldn't pass that up. One of the things about shooting there that's so crazy is that there are literally a hundred places to shoot from - a hundred different angles. And it's kind of a weird one because every swell, a different angle is a better place to be. So you're always second guessing if you're even in the right spot while you're shooting it” Safe to say Brian found the right angle on this monster. Nazare, Portugal. Photo - Brian Bielmann