v19n5 by Freesurf Magazine

FREE V19N5 May 2022

SURF INTO SUMMER PREVIEW

FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA

F R E E

P A R K I N G

Is there anyone’s surfing who elicits more unadulterated fun than Mason Ho? Mason, leaning in at the summer epicenter - Ala Moana Bowls. Photo - Christa Funk

V19N5 Free in Hawai'i

SURF INTO SUMMER PREVIEW

Editorial Publisher

West Coast Distribution & Sales

Mike Latronic

Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128

Editor

East Coast Distribution

Andrew Oliver

Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395

Photo Director Brian Bielmann

Wholesale Inquiries & Hawai‘i Distribution (808) 638-7395

Art Director John Weaver

Staff Shooters Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng,

Business Administration

Andrew Oliver, John Weaver

Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Contributing Writers Rebecca Parsons, Jenn Tokin

Account Executive Annie Sutter

Contributing Photographers Distribution Manager

Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi

Jamie Baradaran

Das, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric

Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa

@freesurfmag

Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine. com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

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TA B L E

Uncle Alvin Photo: Christa Funk

O F

C O N T E N T S

Free Parking

Editor's Note

Local Motion Surf into Summer Preview

The Arrival

Changing Seasons

Red Bull Magnitude

Industry Notes

Last Look

NO INSEAM = NO RASH

THE

H Y DRO COMP B OA RDSHO RT TORREY MEISTER O’N E I L L I N C. 2022 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M

S H O P T H E H Y P E R F R E A K H Y D R O C O M P B O A R D S H O RT AT T H E S E PA RT I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S : H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N

F E A T U R E S

16 26 38

Local Motiion Surf Into Summer Preview

The Arrival Barron Mamiya

Changing Seasons

Mario Kaluhiokalani Photos: McEwen

74 Model by Steve Morgan: 5’5” X 21” X 2.375” Ala Moana Center - Street Level 1, Ewa Wing & Level 3, Diamond Head Wing

www.hicsurf.com

Photo - Christa Funk

TUNE IN By Andrew Oliver

We’ve all seen those iconic images of swell lines stacked to the horizon at regular intervals. An image, which to the untrained eye looks no more than an abstract pattern of lines, instantly sparks excitement in surfers who are well attuned to pick up on this clear sign of pumping surf. And while a picture may speak a thousand words, it only takes two for us to synthesize the complex elements that must converge to create epic waves, “corduroy lines.” From the acrobatic balance we perform on the waves to the sight of stacking sets of an epic swell, surfing is an infinite collection of rhythms. And like expert musicians, while never capable of mastering them all, over time our ability to recognize and tune in to these rhythms multiplies. Think of the descriptions used to describe surfing done at its best, “She’s looking really in tune with her equipment,” or “He’s really found his rhythm on these waves.” When we witness a surfer at their peak we rely on the same words we reserve for music. In this issue we have a perfect example of a surfer finding their “rhythm,” in “The Arrival” page 26. Barron Mamiya has spent his youth as a master apprentice in the hotbed of talent found on the North Shore. Mirroring a breakthrough artist climbing the charts, Mamiya is channeling that cumulative experience and laying down tracks completely his own. Like obsessive jazz connoisseurs, the joy excellent surfing brings us is based both in the marvel of its beauty along with the deep admiration we have for how incredibly difficult it is to master the rhythms to perform on the level of someone like Mamiya. As surfers, these rhythms permeate our lives. Our calendars are marked by the annual cycle of swells more than the official demarcation of seasons. Here in the islands, in lieu of drastic changes in weather, our transition into summer is paired with a migration to the southern shores to capture the swells sent from deep below the equator. Just as the seasons carefully regulate an ecological balance on earth, summer time surf and its tranquil vibes are a welcome counterweight to the high intensity winter swells. FreeSurf Contributing writer Rebecca Parsons reflects on the “Changing Seasons” on page 38. From the subtle to the overt, the complex tapestry of rhythm and patterns that define surfing allow for experiences as diverse as music itself. Longboard. Rock. Fish. Rap. Bodysurf. Pop. Hi-performance. Country, It's all groovy! 14

Are you ready for your heat? Local Motion's Annual “Surf into Summer” Contest is back for 2022! The contest will be held at Ala Moana Bowls on June 11 & 12. Surf Into Summer is historically the largest amateur surf event on Oahu, consistently drawing a broad range of surfers from 7 to 70 years young. Seasoned amateurs as well as the competitive weekend surfer can compete and have fun in one of 9 shortboard or longboard divisions.

The majority of surfing competitions in the USA can offer fun in the sun, camaraderie, valuable points toward the respective ratings in that organization, shiny trophies and bragging rights. For the Local Motion Surf Into Summer, most if not all the surfers are simply hoping for the ultimate reward with waves like this! Photo - Tony Heff

Keanu Asing

Ala Moana bowls is possibly the best quality wave on the south shore. It’s a perfect left that creates a high performance maneuvers and few tubes, when the swell gets to a certain size Bowls lives up to that name and generates a perfect tube on the reef called “Big Bowl”.

As Local Motion's premiere ambassador, Keanu Asing reflects the true aloha spirit that the brand emulates. Photo - Mike Latronic

Growing up bowls was one of those waves that we always looked forward to competing at during the summer and we were always hoping and praying for good surf cause then we would be able to have it all to ourselves in a heat. I feel that competing at that wave has helped me develop the majority of my competitive skills in what I know today. Winning Surf into Summer as a kid was kind of everything. It was the largest summer event for us kids because all the best kids would come from all of the outer islands and surf that event so it was really important event to win. That kicked off our competitive summer contest mode and if you win that then you were going to be the guy to watch out for, for the rest of the summer. It’s a quality performance wave and to win you had to perform your best!

ALOHA is more than just a greeting word, it's a deep, indigenous Hawaiian word with the initial meanings of these five important Hawaiian words:

Akahai Kindness Lokahi Harmony Olu’olu Pleasure Ha’a Ha’a Humility Ahonui Patience This is the core spirit for the brand Local Motion and it is with great stoke they have announced the return of one of Hawaii’s largest and longest running surfing events the “Local Motion Surf Into Summer!”

The competition area comes with quite the picturesque panorama. Photo - John Weaver

SCAN TO REGISTER!

Sweet smiles on land but Betty Lou Sakura is a serious hammer when it comes to competition in the water. Photo - Mike Latronic

Betty Lou Sakura Johnson

Ala moana has its tricks! It a very fun left, especially when it is bigger. When it’s at least 4 feet you can get barreled and do many turns. It’s an awesome practice wave and you get to showcase you surfing in ways you want to.

Running over three decades now, the Local Motion Surf into Summer is an event that has become synonymous with the good times of the summer season. fun waves and great competition. Some of Hawaii’s greatest surfing talents have placed on the podium at this evet like Ezekiel Lau, Mason Ho, Kalani David, Joel Centeio and Seth Moniz to name a few and the return of this year’s competition will no doubt see future stars of our sport. This year’s event will be held at Ala Moana Bowls June 11-12 It is noteworthy that the event’s tradition even after over 30 years is still a highly anticipated event that local surfers of all ages can enjoy and get the opportunity to showcase their talents and do so at THE premiere surfing location on Oahu’s South Shore. With many decades of operation there's a lot of unique individuals who have come through the ranks including the remarkable Bethany Hamilton and friends, 2003.

While Ala Moana is know as one of the most tubular waves on the south side, it is incredibly high performance for sharp maneuvers and aerials. Timmy Metcalf, 2014 Photo - Sean Reilly

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Always a good time when Mason busts out the shakas. Photo - Mike Latronic

Mason Ho Ala Moana is a very special world class wave. It is really high performance whether it’s big or small. It has always been one of my favorite waves in the world. I remember first doing the SIS when I was about 8 years old. It was one of the coolest surf contests I’d ever seen. I couldn’t even imagine winning it because all my favorite surfers were in it and town was like another world for me. I think when I was about 10 I finally won one and it felt like a world title haha.! After winning that goody bag full of prizes I really wanted to become a professional surfer.

2003 Podium

2011 Podium

"If you didn't know... now you know." - ( Trevor Noah ) High profile shaper Wade Tokoro has long since been an integral part of Local Motions hi end surfboard offerings, but did you know he absolutely shreds!? Photo - Sean Reilly

198

YEARS

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HI-TE

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OLAMANA ELEOGRAM

Local Motion Surf Into Summer CONTEST DIVISIONS

There will be 9 divisions from Saturday-Sunday. Each division will have 4 heats, 6 competitors per heat with 3 advancing from each. Top 6 competitors from each division will be awarded trophies and prizes on Sunday. Each competitor will receive a Surf Into Summer 2022 competitor tee & sticker at check-in. Check-in is 30 minutes before your heat. Shortboard Menehune (11 & under)

Magic Island SIS Compound

Shortboard Boys (12-14) Shortboard Junior Men (15-17) Shortboard Men (18-24) Shortboard Masters (25-34) Shortboard Senior Men (35 & over) Shortboard Girls (17 & under) Shortboard Women (18 & over) Longboard (open) Register to for Surf Into Summer from Feb 20, 2022 - Jun 5, 2022. All divisions will have a $45.00 entry fee upon registration. Stores will not have any physical entry forms due to the limited space of each division.

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Barron Mamiya is without question one of the best in the world in heavy barreling surf, but as he demonstrates here, pound for pound he’s easily one of the most powerful surfers of his generation. These are two dangerous traits he’ll be taking on the World Tour. Photo - Brian Bielmann

THE ARRIVAL

B A R R O N

M A M I Y A

Interviewed by Andrew Oliver

There will forever be a significant portion of the surfing tribe, who are at best, aloof to the ebbs and flows of the competitive arena. Paradoxically, there is no shortage of surfing purists here on the North Shore, the mecca of professional surfing, who find a way to tune out the din of the annual competitive circus. Nevertheless, there are moments that transcend personal biases of sport’s place in our honored pursuit which are able to tug at even the most hardened of heartstrings. One such moment played out this past February at the Hurley Pro at Sunset Beach.

Barron Mamiya, the strapping 22 years old North Shore phenom, has been quietly blowing minds since his late teens. The powerhouse regularfoot is a consistent high performance standout in the fun stuff, but it's his ability in waves of supreme consequence, especially Pipeline, that have him in a class of his own. Despite being at the forefront of progressive surfing, Mamiya carries himself decidedly old school. While clearly ultradriven to become the best version of himself, this soft spoken young man epitomizes the mantra “Let your surfing do the talking.” Of all the events on tour, Pipeline is the event known for wildcards stealing the headlines. Stop number two, Sunset Beach, was seen as the event where things got back to regular business, the 2022 Tour would start in earnest, and the established names of the CT were expected to dominate. Pipeline is Mamiya’s known specialty, and Sunset is a challenge to even its most devoted riders - which he is admittedly not. On paper, Mamiya was an unlikely longshot. But, as the event came to a close, it was Mamiya, who reigned

supreme. A storybook moment that will go down in the annals of North Shore lore. One of those moments that only sport can create. A humble local kid, with a devout following of family, friends, and surf fans in the know, but to the wider surfing world a relative unknown, wins his first Championship Tour Event as a wildcard, qualifying for the Tour, and earning the Yellow Jersey in one swoop. Mamiya is living his dream in front of our eyes. Let's talk about how crazy the last few months have been for you. You had a wildcard at Pipeline, which probably wasn't too much of a surprise, but at the same time I would imagine you were thinking it was more of a one time thing. But fast forward, and you’ve won a CT, basically qualified for the World Tour, and at the end of the Hawai’i leg of the season you’re number one in the world. It must feel like a whirlwind? It all started at the end of last year, at the HIC Pipe Pro. Going into that, it was known that whoever won was gonna get a wildcard into the Billabong Pro Pipeline. So, I had that in the back of my head. I also just really

Fully committed surfing led Mamiya to his breakthrough victory at Sunset. Photo - Brian Bielmann

wanted to do well because I hadn't had a good heat in a while. The challenger series was a bit a shocker for me that year. And obviously prior to that, COVID happened and we didn't surf for events like two years. So, going to that contest, I really wanted to perform well and get a good result.. And I ended up making the final, I got second to John, and I was stoked. I mean, obviously I wanted to win, but losing to the best surfer ever out there was all good. But, obviously John didn't need the wild card being that he was on the CT. So, they gave me the wildcard into the Pipe CT Event. And, I was super stoked to get that wildcard. That was kinda the goal for the whole comp, get the wildcard for Pipe. Just get into Pipe. I was like, “Hey, if I do good in Pipe, or put on a show, there's a chance I'll get into the Sunset Event.” And, I kind of knew in the back of my head, if I do good in both those, I could have a chance of being on the CT. Cause there's only five events before that midyear cutoff. So, I kind of have that in my mind, but it was a pretty long shot for sure.

Mostly I just wanted to go out and have some good heats and put on a show in front of everyone. That was my main goal. Yeah. Obviously, I could qualify, but that's just such a far out goal. But, you know, if you shoot for the stars, you'll usually make it to the clouds. So, I wanna go out there, put on a good show and you know, have fun. And, then you had some amazing moments in the Pipe contest. So, you're probably like, “Yeah, I did it!” I definitely was stoked. I had a few pretty good heats. That heat with Kelly was super sick. Surfing with him out there has been a dream of mine since I was a little kid. To get to surf a heat with him out there before he retired was amazing for me, I was super stoked. After I lost that heat, it got me super fired up to get into the Sunset Event. But, I felt like if I made that heat with Kelly, I was gonna do really well in the event. I was fired up on Pipe. I put in a lot of effort and really practiced for it.

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And, that's your spot. That's what you're definitely known for. So I'm sure that was the one you had the most focus on, right? I felt really good about that event. I had no nerves. I felt like everything was going my way. I just really felt that it was my event to do good in, and then I was surfing against Kelly, and anything is possible with him. I was definitely bummed to lose, but before that contest, I was not as fired up as I would be to get the season started. I was definitely in more of a cruise mode. I was psyched to be in the Pipe Event. But, after that, I would be cruising. Maybe I’ll go on a surf trip or two? I’d get ready for the Challenger Series.

“Every time I paddle out at Pipe there's always that fear that you could hit your head and die,” said Mamiya, reflecting on his relationship with the deadly wave. “That's always out there. It's the most dangerous wave in the world. But I tend to believe if you think about those things, that's where you're gonna go. So, I tell myself, ‘Don't look where you don't wanna go.’” Photo - Brent Bielmann

But the second I lost that heat to Kelly, I got so fired up to get in the Sunset Event. It definitely got me fired up. So, it was kind of a good thing I lost. Over the years you’ll hear it from full time free surfers who’ve received wildcards and have had remarkable heats, they get a taste of that energy from these big events. And they're just like, “Wow. There's nothing that really compares to that feeling.” Yeah, for sure. I was so fired up. I asked for the wildcard at Sunset and then it took a while and I finally got it like four days before the comp started. And, I'm not gonna lie. I definitely like the wave and it's a fun wave, but it's just so hard to freesurf out there. There's so many people, it's hard to get waves. I definitely did some practicing, but I never really felt I was ready for Sunset. And, all of my boards were made for Pipe. I never had any focus toward Sunset. So when I got called up, I was like, “Oh, I gotta start figuring this out.” I was not as prepared as I should have been. Which was fine, because it was like a mental challenge for me. “Okay, you're probably the most unprepared

person in this contest. So, why don't you just go out and surf like you have nothing to lose?” I felt like I had to change my surfing a little. My boards were way smaller than what I would have wanted. So, I felt like I had to attack the lip more to get scores. Where the other guys were doing these huge carves and getting big scores. And their carves were always gonna look bigger than mine. Because their boards were built for open face surfing. a lot better and like all this stuff was factoring. So I was like, “I'm just gonna have to attack the lip and surf with a lot of energy.” And that was my mindset and going into that contest. That's super interesting. Because of not having “traditional” Sunset equipment, it forced you to surf with a unique approach. Yeah, I said to myself, “ I'm not gonna be able to out carve someone who's on a 6’6.” Their open face turns are gonna look way bigger than mine. What were you riding? I was riding a 6’3.

Mamiya’s surfing is firmly based on a foundation of power and style - topped with a little new school flair. Photo - Brian Bielmann

Wow. Some of those days were pumping. Yeah. My board was way too small, for the big days for sure. But it's funny, I had this mindset that reminded me of the 2014 Tahiti Event, when Medina won at Teahupoo. That was the year John John and Kelly had that crazy heat and everyone thought John or Kelly was gonna win. And, I kind of just pulled a lot of motivation from that, in this strange way. I was like, “Look, Medina went out and he was the last guy that should have won the contest at that time.” I’m not saying that he's not good enough, he obviously was. But he was the guy anyone expected to win. Kelly and John were the best guys in the draw. But, Medina found a way to win that contest, and then went on to win the World Title that year. So I felt, “Hey, if he can do it when it's like that, and he's never seen a wave that big and never surfed a wave that big and to go out there and do that then I should be able to figure this out pretty easily.” And, it's not like I've never surfed anything like this before.

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T H E

A R R I V A L / B A R R O N

M A M I Y A

So you're kind of under the radar until you're not. Everyone's like, “Whoa, okay. Here he is.” And then you’ve taken it down at the end. Yeah! Are you still pinching yourself? Or does it feel real? Like, “Okay. This is what I'm doing now. This is my job. I tried to get myself out of that mindset, because going into Portugal, I was kind of like, “Holy crap. This is crazy.” I went from literally being like the worst surfer, in the sense of I wasn’t even in the top 100 on the QS, last year. I mean I did so bad on the QS, I almost didn't get into Hale’iwa And, I was so defeated. And then now I'm the number one surfer in the world on the CT. Yeah, I was definitely tripping out for sure. But, I needed to get myself out of that mindset. In a way I felt like a little kid around all these people who have been doing this for a long time. I wanted to get outta that mindset of, “Oh, this is crazy. I can't believe I actually made it here.” Obviously I'm still very grateful to be here. And, I'm stoked that I won Sunset. That was a great start

to my year. And it gave me a huge conference booster. But now I'm like, “Okay, you're on the CT, it happened.” Let's grind it out till September. After that, you know, we can reassess. My whole mindset had to change because I was not prepared to go a whole year on the CT. I didn't even think that was gonna happen. I was in a totally different mindset, it was, “Okay, do Pipe, work on my surfing, and get ready for the Challenger Series.” So, I had to do a full 180, and reevaluate everything. But, now I'm definitely in a mindset where it sunk in that I qualified, and of course this is what I wanted all along. So now, let's keep grinding and making heats and see where I fall at the end of the year. As you said, your mindset was focused on getting ready for the Challenger Series, which can be pretty grindy. Now that you’re on the CT, and you’ll be going from one legit wave to another, have you been scrambling to get your equipment dialed? Has your prep mode had to change? Now the preparation is getting ready for Bells and Margarets. I just got a bunch of boards. And, both those waves are very similar to waves we have here in Hawai’i. But in general going from good wave to good wave, especially the back half of the year with G-Land, El Salvador, J Bay, and Tahiti. At the end of the day, those waves are so good. Like you could basically take out a door out there and surf good on it. Compared to the challenger series where if your board isn't flying in two foot waves, you're pretty much done. On the CT, going from good wave to good wave, you definitely need to have the right boards for all these waves so it's definitely a little switch up. On the Challenger Series, I'm bringing like five grovelers and two good wave boards. But now I'm every single one of my boards that

Photo - Ryan Miller

I’m packing is made for really, really good waves. So, my boards have changed, but the end goal hasn’t really changed. I’m out there to make heats. The difference is I'm just gonna go surfing in a lot better waves. Talking about all these good waves on the schedule, how many of these spots have you been to before? The only spot I think I've been to is Teahupoo. Well, that's probably the one where the experience pays off the most. For some rookies that don't have any experience there they really have a hard time wrapping their head around it. Yeah. They see a 12 foot closeout coming at them and they're like what the hell is this? Speaking of heavy waves, watching you surf at places like Tahiti and especially Pipe, it looks so natural. How did comfort in waves like that come to you? When I was young, I always loved to watch Pipe. I always thought it was such a fascinating place to see live. You're watching people trying to ride the deadliest wave and its all right in front of you. So I was always very fascinated with it as a kid. And, I always wanted to learn how to surf it. The first time I ever went out there, was with my dad and Uncle Derek, and Uncle D pushed me into my first wave and I cartwheeled down the face and just got absolutely smoked. I was like nine years old. It was small, but I got smoked and I was kinda baffled. Then he pushed me to another and I went right, I got barreled, and I came out. I was like, “Oh my God, that was the sickest thing ever.”

Ever since then, I was hooked on the wave. I would get out of school at Sunset Beach Elementary and I'd go straight across the street and we’d surf it. Little Backdoor, or Aints. And, I would get these fun little barrels with my friends. I was so psyched on it and had so much fun surfing it. Then over the years, you test your limits on how much bigger you can surf it. And, I remember going out there one day, it was pretty big. I was sitting in the channel, not anywhere near anything, but it was probably like six to eight feet. And, I was watching these guys trying to go on these waves, just like, “How are they doing this?” It just looked like such a crazy thing to me. As I started getting older, I just started trying to push it and push it a little more. Obviously every time I paddle out at Pipe there's always that fear that you could hit your head and die. That's always out there. It's the most dangerous wave in the world. But I tend to believe if you think about those things, that's where you're gonna go. So, I tell myself, “Don't look where you don't wanna go.” I try to surf it with no fear, but, obviously I'm scared shitless in my head. It’s just the more you can surf it like that, the better you are. I mean, you look at John he definitely doesn't look like he's going on waves scared. When you think back on those moments as a kid watching the best out there and you're asking yourself, “How do they do that?” Now that you're mixing it up with the very best in the world out there. Do you ever think, “Wow, there's probably kids in the channel right now tripping out on what I’m doing?”

I always think about that. And, probably one of those little kids watching us, he's gonna do something. Five years from now, he's gonna be taking off on a shortboard in the barrel, under the lip, and just airdrop with ease. At the end of the day, the reason why John, John got so good for example is because he watched Andy, Bruce, Kelly, Jamie, all those guys, he watched them from the channel. And he was like, “Yeah, I'm gonna do this, but in my way, and I’lI do it better.” He watched that and he was the next generation. It's just gonna keep getting better. And the sport of surfing, it's gonna keep evolving. I think the sport of surfing right now is at the highest level. And it's gonna keep going up because the kids are just gonna be gnarlier and gnarlier. Speaking of surfing at the highest level. You started the year at number one. What if you come to the end of the year into the finals at Trestles, number one? Have you given that any thought? My whole goal since I was a kid was to win a world title. I didn't think the chance for me to gun for a world title was gonna come up this quick. But you have as good a shot as anyone. This is the time to do it if there is ever a time, you know? I'm not putting pressure on myself because first off, I'm a wildcard, and no one expects a wildcard to win a world title, but no one also expects a wildcard to win a CT event either. Exactly My goal is to make it to that top five and we can see what happens at the end of the year.

To accomplish the incredibly powerful turns that Mamiya unleashes on a regular basis you need a heavy footed approach. But don't be fooled, Mamiya knows when to apply a lighter touch. Photo - Ryan “Chachi” Craig

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CHANGING SEASONS By Rebecca Parsons

ummer is a lot of things. It’s long days and warm nights. It’s sun burns and tan lines. It’s bonfires with friends under a star-studded sky. It’s bare feet and melting ice cream cones. It’s windblown hair in the back of a pickup truck. It’s family vacations and a childhood sense of freedom. And on Oahu, it’s a shift of swell from the North to South Shore as the seasons turn.

The Northshore of Oahu is world famous for its powerful relentless surf during the winter months. Those who test their mettle will undoubtedly at some point find themselves in a daunting situation, paddling as fast as they can in an attempt to avoid certain disaster. Photo: Brian Bielmann

The newest addition to the top ranked WSL tour, Maui's Imai Devault is typically a soft spoken athlete who lets his surfing do most of the talking. Here Imai asserts that punting solid airs on feisty little Maui bowls is super charged and super fun. Photo - Dayanidhi Das

n most regions, the changing of seasons means the falling of leaves, colorful scarfs, trips to the local mountains, and bundling up by the fire with a mug of steaming hot cocoa in hand. But for “The Gathering Place,” it means something else entirely. In the wintertime, Oahu’s North Shore lights up, offering consistent and pumping surf from November to April. Waves span from Haleiwa Beach Park to Sunset Beach, accounting for a seven mile stretch of some of the best surf in the world. During the winter months, the “seven mile miracle” is home to world class waves, national surf competitions, and a constant influx of professional surfers from all corners of the globe.

San Clemente's Griffin Colapinto has shown there's really no stitch in his range of surfing talent. In big throaty surf Griff absolutely charges with new school style and in smaller more progressive conditions he's among the best in the world. Photo - Brian Bielmann

he usually sleepy surf town turns into a vibrant surfing hot spot, with rental units filled to capacity, long lines at every food truck, and bumper to bumper traffic along the usually quiet Kamehameha Highway. When a particularly large swell rolls through, the lineups are stacked and the beaches are packed with both locals and visitors hoping to get a taste of the action. The energy is electric, both on and off the water. “Winter season is the most exciting time of the year,” says big wave legend Keala Kennelly. “When the season ends, it’s really hard for me to come down off of the adrenaline high that I’ve been riding for months. Right around March, I start falling into a depression knowing that we won’t be getting anymore big swells.”

At Rocky Point on any particular day, you may catch a glimpse like this one of Tahitian Kauli Vaast busting air over the top of one of the most rippable waves on the Northshore. Photo - Brent Bielmann

s summer approaches, the waves on the North Shore dwindle, the crowds dissipate, and surfers pack their bags in search of bigger and better waves until swell returns once again the following year. As the sun sets on the winter season of surf on the North Shore, it rises on the south shore, bringing with it a summer of endless waves. “As the seasons switch and swell starts to hit the south shore, I look forward to non-stop surfing all day, every day,” says born and bred south shore shredder Kaniela Stewart. “Summer is sun, waves, beach, fun with friends and family, and lots and lots of surfing. Wake up, surf, eat, surf, eat, sleep, and repeat—I surf at minimum eight hours a day.”

"Youth is King" they say? Watching Vaihiti Inso take apart these left handers on the southside, one could indeed argue "Youth is QUEEN." Photo - Brian Bielmann

Sharing waves with your friends can be fun, amusing and playful. If you are game enough to ride a wave with Maui rad man Matt Meola, you best be ready for anything. Photo - Dayanidhi Das

he ocean can be temperamental and is oftentimes unpredictable. Waves are generated by wind and the friction of wind against the water—the strength and duration of the wind over the ocean determines what the waves will look like once they reach the coastline. Other factors such as sea floor topography, tides, and local winds can also influence the shape and the size of the waves that hit the beach.

Combining silky smooth style, speed slashes and high velocity transitions Flynn Novak is always a favorite to watch at any surf spot. Photo - Vince Cavataio

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Even with a crook wind, the tight powerful bowl at Ala Moana becomes the ultimate playground for progressive surfing. Robert Grilho displays some of his trademark backhand power. Photo - Brian Bielmann

lthough nothing is set in stone and the ocean is ever dynamic, Oahu’s swells tend to follow seasonal patterns. During the wintertime, large, powerful swells regularly hit both the north and west sides of the island. The iconic, world-class waves are the result of storms in the Aleutian Islands in the North Pacific. Winter on Oahu means variable winds, longer spells of rain, and big, unpredictable surf that acts as a magnet, attracting surfers and spectators from around the world.

For every "hype" day at Big Pipe or Waimea Bay on Oahu there's an incredible amount of action and energy going down on Maui and other outer islands. Honolua Bay ripper OG, Micah Nickens, holds up the torch for the "Uncles Movement" in good form. Photo - Dayanidhi Das

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“W

inter on the North Shore is intense,” says the Queen of Pipeline Moana Jones Wong. “It’s at times stressful and nerve wracking but at the same time it’s amazing going to sleep and hearing the power of the ocean. It makes me feel grateful to call it home. Summer is a chance to rest and cross train.”

flock to the Hawaiian Islands to experience the sunshine, waves, and culture. The busy season begins in June, with tourism reaching an alltime high in July and August. With the tourists come the waves and a newfound sense of awe and excitement as the summer season begins anew.

On the flip side, the south shore stirs from its slumber during the warmer months, delivering a summer of endless surf. From May to October, swell regularly hits the south side, courtesy of wintertime storms in the southern hemisphere. While the majority of summer swell is concentrated to the south shore, there are sprinklings of swell on the east and west sides of the island as well. Although south shore swell doesn’t rival wintertime on the North Shore, town is in no short supply of waves come summertime.

Waikiki is home to some of the world’s best longboarders and on any given day, Queens is packed with a talented group of loggers. The focus of winter may be big airs and big waves, but summertime is centered around long, rolling waves and dancing on water. Visitors catch the surfing bug through lessons and sessions at Canoes and baby Queens while experienced locals take full advantage of the summertime swells on the outer reefs. Some destinations may offer consistent surf year round, but Oahu’s dual personality provides a healthy balance of seasonal swell. Just as the North Shore maxes out on broken boards, lifeguard rescues, and non-stop tourists, the waves quiet down and the energy shifts to the south shore. While the north shore community takes a well-earned rest, the south shore kicks into high gear for a summer full of action. Like the ebb and flow of the tide, waves and visitors come and go on Oahu but one fact remains evergreen: there are always waves, somewhere.

“Every summer, I look forward to the endless amounts of sunshine and waves on the south side,” says longboard stylist Haley Otto. “Summer is surfing a ton, wherever there are waves—either at Ala Moana or Queens. Summer is surfing every single day, sunburns and all.” With the influx of waves comes an influx of crowds to the already popular tourist destination. Each year, approximately ten million visitors

There's a large group of young surfers pushing the envelope worldwide and Maui's Rafi Neri is showing the crew at Honolua Bay just how it's done. Photo - Dayanidhi Das 50

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Maui Locals Skylar Lickle, Paige Alms, Annie Reickert Claim Top Big-Wave Awards at Red Bull Magnitude Second Edition of Red Bull Magnitude Highlights the Future of Women’s Big-Wave Surfing; Skylar Lickle Wins Overall Performer Award

Today, after an action-packed three months of Hawaiian big-wave surfing, Red Bull Magnitude crowned a new champion, Maui’s own Skylar Lickle. The 21-year-old took home took home the ‘Best Overall Performer’ award and a purse prize of $35,000, over a field of more than 20 participants. A stunning compilation reel of Lickle’s best big-wave rides this season is what earned her the title of ‘Champion’ of the only women’s’ big-wave digital contest. From December 2021 until March 2022, Red Bull provided camera teams, water safety crews and additional resources across notable Hawaiian big-wave locations including O’ahu and Maui Outer Reefs. The contest ran when surf forecast called for sustained wave heights of 15-foot Hawaiian (30-foot regular), as predicted by Surfline, the most accurate and trusted surf reports, forecasts, and coastal weather in the industry. In order to provide the largest competitor field possible while supporting the up-and-coming generation of big-wave athletes, registration was open to any participants who proved capable of handling themselves in heavy water.

Skylar Lickle surfs at Red Bull Magnitude at Jaws on 22 January, 2022. Photo - Christa Funk 52

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At the end of the swell period, each surfer reviewed footage and selected their top three waves for review. Judges ruled that Lickle had put together the most impressive winter season out of the field, with Michaela Fregonese finishing second and Katie McConnell finishing third, overall. In addition to the Champion-crowning ‘Best Overall Performer’ Award, the Red Bull Magnitude Judges’ panel presented awards for five other categories as well as a publicvote based, People’s Choice Award. Award categories, purse prizes and recipients are as follows: Beyond Lickle, Maui-based surfers dominated the closing awards ceremony as Paige Alms took home the ‘Yeti Best Ride Award, which was given to the single highest scoring wave. That same wave also won Alms the Best Paddle Award honors as the single best wave paddled into by a surfer during the contest period. Annie Reickert has won the Best Tow Award for the best tow wave ridden this year for a massive wave ridden in Maui.

Paige Alms Photo - Christa Funk

Katie McConnell Photo - Ha'a Keaulana

M A G N I T U D E Northern California-based big-wave surfer Katie McConnell took home the ‘Rookie of the Year’ Award presented by Skinnies. McConnell, in particular, embodied what makes the open format of the competition so special. Witnessing last year’s edition of Red Bull Magnitude, McConnell reached out to event organizers seeking permission to compete in the 2021-2022 season of Red Bull Magnitude. After working on a Northern California fishing boat all summer, McConnell relocated to O’ahu for the winter season, and ultimately turned in one of the most impressive big-wave seasons of anyone in the field. The final award, the People’s Choice Award, was awarded to X as voted on by online fans viewing at home. The award was comprised of special non-cash prizes like a one-of-akind big-wave surfboard shaped by local shaper Y.

Annie Reickert Photo - Christa Funk

Left to right: Paige Alms, Skylar Lickle, Annie Reickert, and Katie McConnell. Photo: Tahnei Roy // Red Bull Content Pool.

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Pacifc Islands Red Bull Magnitude Final Results Best Overall Performer Award ($35,000): Skylar Lickle YETI Best Ride Award ($5,000): Paige Alms Best Paddle Award ($5,000): Paige Alms Best Tow Award ($5,000): Annie Reickert

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Rookie of the Year Award ($2,500): Katie McConnell People’s Choice Award: Annie Reickert

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MAHALO FOR BEING A CONSCIOUS CONSUMER.

I N D USTRY NOTES Craig Sugihara, Founder & Owner of T&C Surf Designs is proud to appoint his son Ryan Sugihara President. This day has been a long-time in the making. Since returning home from College at Oregon State University in 2001 with a business degree, Ryan has worked in almost every area of the company – wholesale, surfboard factory, retail stores, buying, warehouse management, product development, and marketing. Each experience has contributed to Ryan’s well-rounded understanding of the business and positioned Ryan to excel in this leadership role. Since being named Vice President, Ryan has brought new energy and a more youthful perspective to a number of successful initiatives.

No April Fools Jokes Here- Kai and Molly Plus Two

“I founded this company when I was 25 years old with endless passion and zero experience other than my shaping. I learned the business by doing and certainly made some mistakes. I am confident that Ryan shares my passion for surfing and has the experience and drive to guide the next generation of success for T&C.”

April 1, 2022- Kai and Molly Lenny got to meet their baby girls as they were brought into the world, giving the couple the honor of being parents! Congratulations to the Lenny family and welcome to the world Willa and Senna Lenny!

“T&C is built on a foundation of STOKE for surfing and a deep love for Hawaii! We have always endeavored to provide innovative products with the highest level of customer service. These fundamentals have seen us through 51 years. Ryan has embraced this approach and will build further on our success to date in the coming years.” Craig Sugihara

WSL Announces New Mid-Length World Tour

At 75, Craig remains stoked on surfing and looks forward to enjoying more time in the water. When the waves are less than ideal, you will find Craig on the golf links with old friends. More time with loved ones and friends and leisure travel with his family are at the top of Craig’s to do list. The additional time to relax and enjoy are well deserved! “I’m stoked and excited that my parents have entrusted me to be the President of T&C Surf. They have both sacrificed so much to get the company to where it is today. Being a surfer who was born and raised in the surf industry and now working in it, I have a deeper appreciation for how special our company is. After 51 years, my parents have had so many special people be a part of this unreal journey. Together they have grown and guided a respected global company, rich with history and a future filled with new opportunities. My passion for this company, its people and my love of surfing drives me every day to work hard and do my very best. With that, I know that my parents will be proud of the legacy that I will continue to grow with our team at T&C Surf Designs Hawaii.” Ryan Sugihara, President

Mick Fanning Talks Bells As you’re all aware, legend Mick Fanning has retired from competitive surfing and has embraced his role as a full time dad, but what happens when Rip Curl calls to ask if you want to compete at Bells? He said it would be really fun to compete with Kelly as they’ve had such a long rivalry over the years, but with Kelly’s positive covid result, we’ll see if the two old guys can even draw some heats together.

To everyone’s surprise, the WSL has recently announced a new Mid-Length World Tour, saying they want to keep everything right down the middle… literally. A league source stated, “The CT has become way, way too athletic, what with its hard-to-judge aerials and over and over reliance on speed. The longboard tour is on the opposite end of that. One makes for a great broadcast product, the other, well…”

Ivan and Nathan Repping GoMacro GoMacro has been making a name for itself in the surf industry, recently partnering with 5x World Champ and Olympian, Carissa Moore, as well as hammer Jack Freestone and now bringing Ivan and Nathan Florence into the mix. Mother-daughter owned, made with 100% renewable energy, and certified organic, vegan, and gluten free, this company has it down and is in the business of keeping our surfers fueled with the good stuff.

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I N D USTRY NOTES T&C Surf Grom Contest For the past few years, many local surf contests have been cancelled or postponed. This summer we welcome the news that Local Motion's Surf Into Summer as well as T& C Grom Fest are back.

T&C Gromfest Queen's Waikiki June 4th & 5th See you there!

Kelly Slater Gets Covid Following Oscars Appearance We all know Kelly is used to being in the spotlight.. Whether it’s through winning 11 World Titles, dating famous movie stars, or his Baywatch days, there’s no surprise at his comfortability level attending the Oscars this year. In addition to surfing's GOAT, Tony Hawk and Shaun White were in attendance as wellgiving some attention to us who base our entire lives around standing sideways. As cool as the Oscars are, unfortunately his party gift consisted of a positive covid test just in time for the Bells contest. But if you’re going to covid after anything, at least it was something as epic as the Oscars.

Masons Medieval Madness Live from The Search, Mason Ho has been hunting down barrels in various locations kickstarting his multiple part segment, Masons Medieval Madness. Mason Ho is easily one of the most, if not the most fun surfer to watch. To see him get barrels on straight dry reef and weave and bob through the water, creating some of the most stylish, crazy, and creative lines we’ve ever seen, is pure entertainment. Tune in to see his adventures and his POV as he’s on The Search.

The Live Like Sion Gromfest is a grassroots event that gives back to the community, while keeping Sion’s legacy alive and sharing his values of family, friends and loved ones first. The Gromfest is a free event and organizers are lucky enough to have Volcom make all the amazing t-shirts, donating a ton of prizes, while the islands small businesses come in and play a major role in the events success as well. It is because of this combination, plus the volunteers that donate their time and energy, that the Live Like Sion Gromfest is successful each and every year. O'Neill Dresses @ HIC Stroll into HIC to snag yourself one of these O'Neill Morette Solid Dresses. Perfect for sunny days. This knit mini dress has a comfortable, flowy fit and low-back design. www.hicshoponline.com

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A last wave goodbye from one of the best North Shore seasons on memory. Kobi Clements, Photo - Brian Bielmann