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FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA

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The beauty of our beloved pastime is we dance on an ever-changing playing field. From the combination of wind, sand, tide, and swell arise unlimited possibilities to ride. Each spot has its patterns which we recognize as being unique to that locale, this wave is fast, that spot is mushy, etc… But, sometimes lightning strikes and your local shorebreak turns into Backdoor for an afternoon. Miracles happening in Santa Cruz.

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Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Andrew Oliver Photo Director Brian Bielmann Art Director John Weaver

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Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 West Coast Distribution & Sales Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 Wholesale Inquiries & Hawai‘i Distribution (808) 638-7395 Staff Shooters Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, Andrew Oliver, John Weaver Contributing Writers Aukai Ng, Rebecca Brenes, Rebecca Parsons Contributing Photographers Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

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Free Parking

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Peter Cole

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News & Events

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Aperture

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Industry Notes

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A T R I B U T E TO P E T E R C O L E JULY 9TH 2022

By Mike Latronic Photos Aukai Ng Family, friends, surfing icons and peers all gathered at Sunset Beach this July 9th to honor and remember big wave surfing pioneer Peter Cole. Family man, prize winning swimmer, teacher and sage activist, Cole was a huge pillar of the Northshore Oahu community who passed away peacefully in his home surrounded by a loving family on Feb 6th of this year.

to surf big waves on the Northshore. We would often wait for Peter and his wife Sally to walk down the beach at Sunset so we could all paddle out together…”

In the pre-paddle out tribute there were yarns and testimonies from friends and relatives that were heartfelt, funny at times, and indeed inspiring. This outpouring could only be described as “legendary.” Summarizing Peter Coles fearless prowess in large waves, Lucky Cole, Peter’s brother, stated that, “If Greg Noll was “The Bull,” then my brother Peter was “The Lion.” Hawaiian living legend and masterful waterman Clyde Aikau took to the podium and eloquently gave thanks and homage to the late surfer as a man, “Who consistently inspired me my brother (Eddie Aikau)

Along with the Aikaus, Cole ran with a crew of other surfing “hell men” like Fred Van Dyke, Buzzy Trent and Ricky Grigg and Peter earned “charger” status amongst this peer group. Cole would often engage in big wave conditions most wanted no part of. His verve and confidence in huge surf were a direct reflection of his stellar prowess in swimming.

Others spoke passionately telling of Peter Coles kindness, intelligence, mentoring, and passion for integrity. Some would comment on his strong personality and for comic relief his partial blindness and how anyone who surfed with him KNEW to give Peter a very wide berth.

Hearing of this unswerving dedication to friendships, family, justice and kindness got me quite choked up. The world lost a great man, but his legacy and his positive influence are indeed alive and well with his family and friends and practically everyone he touched. Hundreds of people paddled out with flowers and good spirits to honor this man as his family returned him to the sea. It was a special day and this tribute truly moved me.

Age 16, I paddled out on a big day at Sunset on my “5’11 single fin planning to ride the “end bowl.” I was all of 125 lbs. Perched on the inside I kept looking over at these long walls coming in from deep “Boneyard” and connecting through the middle where

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most of the “big guys” were surfing. Mike Ho, Dennis Pang, Ken Bradshaw, Darrick Doernor, Dane Kealoha, Owl Chapman and Mark Foo were getting great rides. I knew my equipment was a bit small to get the peak with all the top talent out there but I was lured deeper and I paddled past that peak where the “North” take-off was a bit mellower. I lucked into a massive set with a little crumble at the top and although late, I shook the water out of my eyes and took the drop. I was joined by perhaps the biggest yellow surfboard I ever rode next to!

As my eyes cleared, lo and behold, it was Peter Cole in his standard outfit of red shorts and white t-shirt, dropping into the middle section on what appeared to be an 11’ board. The wave was a “grower.” I never felt anxious. I never felt cheated.

I had speed and Peter gave me plenty of room so I knew I could make it around the big middle peak. Didn’t even think of

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making a fuss. The man deserved respect that much I knew.

That said I was also warned and aware of his poor vision, so I followed him cautiously. As the wave moved ominously into the steeper section toward the jacking inside bowl I realized Peter didn’t even know I was there. I knew it I’d best air on the side of caution and get the $%&@ out of there! I kicked out behind his trail successfully and never really thought too much about it again.

Reflecting back tears of joy stream as I try to parley this. If I thought back on that ride, I’d simply always say to myself I avoided catastrophe because Peter was half blind and his board weighted no less than 35 pounds! Like, “Wow I made it.” But after today it has catalyzed as perhaps one of the most special moments of my surfing experience. I am so truly humbled and honored to have shared a set wave at Sunset Beach with a great surfer and more importantly such a truly exceptional human.

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2022 USA SURFING CHAMPIONSHIP PRESENTED BY @PLAYABOWLS Jackson Dorian

Lucas Senkbeil-Cassity

Sawyer Lindblad

The 2022 USA Surfing Championship presented by Playa Bowls featured pumping waves and some of the best performances in the history of the event.

Held at renowned San Onofre State Beach’s Lower Trestles, USA Surfing Championship was the final stop in a competition series featuring the nation’s best Under 18 surfers. More than 250 surfers, ages 7 to 18, qualified to compete for a national title in four age divisions, and a spot on USA Surfing’s junior national team.

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And what an event it was, all eyes were on the nation’s best junior surfers as they battled it out in perfect SoCal waves. The final two days of the event were broadcast on YouTube and Fuel TV with commentary and analysis from former competitors and professional announcers, attracting the event’s highest viewership numbers to date.

Bella Kenworthy

USA Surfing COO and contest director, Andrea Swayne, has been leading the premiere competition for nearly two decades.

“USA Surfing Championship at Lowers always showcases the stellar talent being developed among our country’s rising stars,” Swayne said. “But equally impressive is seeing our young athletes’ camaraderie and sportsmanship. To see one’s competitors chair them up the beach to celebrate their win is a thing of true beauty. We are so proud of all our athletes, and it’s a true pleasure to provide opportunities for them to progress and shine.”

Coach Ryan Simmons had a prime view of the action from the announcer’s seat. “Lower Trestles delivered in brilliant SoCal surf fashion with long sloping walls and some of the best performances we’ve seen maybe ever at USA Champs. Starting with the U12 girls who scored the heat of the event for waves all the way down to our premier finals Boys and Girls U18.

What an amazing week for junior surfing.”

Mahalo to USA Surfing for these amazing images.

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RESULTS

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BOYS U12 1st Zion Walla, San Clemente, Calif.

2nd Merrik Mochkatel, Hawaii 3rd Luke Lopez, Indian Rocks, Fla. 4th Tanner Sandvig, San Clemente, Calif.

GIRLS U12 1st Teagan Meza, Torrance, Calif.

2nd Zoey Kaina, from Hawaii living in San Clemente, Calif.

3rd Ruby Stringfellow, Huntington Beach, Calif.

4th Peeta Kenworthy, San Clemente, Calif.

BOYS U14 1st Lucas Senkbeil-Cassity, San Juan Capistrano, Calif.

2nd Quaid Fahrion, Costa Mesa, Calif.

3rd Zolten Poulsen, Hawaii 4th Kahlil Pineres-Schooley, Hawaii GIRLS U14 1st Mia McLeish, San Clemente, Calif.

2nd Eden Walla, San Clemente, Calif.

3rd Chesney Guinotte, Hawaii 4th Zoie Zietz, Hawaii GIRLS U16 1st Talia Swindal, Malibu, Calif.

2nd Bella Kenworthy, San Clemente, Calif.

3rd Vaihiti Inso, Hawaii 4th Avery McDonald, San Clemente, Calif.

BOYS U16 1st Lucas Senkbeil-Cassity, San Juan Capistrano, Calif.

2nd Jackson Dorian, Hawaii 3rd Rylan Beavers, Hawaii 4th Cannon Carr, San Clemente, Calif.

GIRLS U18 1st Sawyer Lindblad, San Clemente, Calif.

2nd Talia Swindal, Malibu, Calif.

3rd Zoe Benedetto, Palm City, Fla. 4th Vaihiti Inso, Hawaii BOYS U18 1st Kai Martin, Hawaii 2nd Lucas Owston, Oceanside, Calif.

3rd Oliver Zietz, Hawaii 4th Kai Kushner, Manhattan Beach, Calif.

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2022 NSSA National Championships June 26 - July 3rd, the 2022 NSSA National Championships took place at Huntington Beach Pier, California. It was a week of camaraderie, fun California sun, and consistent swell. The first half of the competition featured the Explorer divisions and the second half featured the Open Men's, Women’s, and Junior divisions, as well as the Men’s, Boy’s, and Girl’s Airshow divisions.

Highlights of the event included an allHawaiian final featuring Luke Tema (4th), Rylan Beevers (3rd), Diego Ferri (2nd), and Oliver Zietz (1st). Luke Tema (HAW) made a huge statement at the event advancing to the finals in both the Open Men's & Juniors divisions. According to the NSSA, there has only been a handful who have pulled off the double Open Men's & Juniors final in the same year, individuals such as Clay Marzo, Seth Moniz, and Conner Coffin.

In addition to the Open Men’s and Juniors divisions, Tema advanced to the finals in the Explorer Junior’s and Men’s divisions making him a finalist in four divisions. After placing fourth in three divisions, Tema was able to shake off the pressure for the Open Juniors Final, placing 1st and taking home his first national title.

Luke Tema

Sarah Freyer

Luke Tema

But that’s not all he took home. Thanks to his hard work, in and out of the water, Tema received the Highest GPA with Top Nationals Performance special award presented by Conner Coffin and was awarded a board from the legend himself.

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David O'Keefe

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CONGRATS

LUKE NSSA OPEN JUNIORS NATIONAL CHAMP

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David O'Keefe Other highlights from the event included the Griffin Colapinto Board Giveaway Best Essay, and winner of the special award, Kona Costa (HAW). In October of 2021, Kona was involved in a serious e-foil accident that severed his right thumb. Having just come off of a victory at the 2021 Regional Championships, he was heartbroken to not be able to compete in the Nationals. Kona had to adjust and adapt to life without his right thumb, but this year he was back competing!

When asked what the hardest part of his journey was he answered, “relearning how to write.” Despite his handicap, Kona entered the essay contest writing

one of the longest and most heartfelt essays, winning the contest and Griffins board. His brother Zal also competed, placing 2nd in the Menehune Explorer Division.

Taking home the win in the Open Men’s division was non other than California native, David O’Keefe. He set the bar incredibly high during the Open Men’s quarters, with a heat total of 18.27 out of a possible 20. Moving on to the finals,

O’Keefe was impossible to beat, earning a well-deserved win and taking home his first National Title.

It was a fantastic week of great surf, heartfelt moments, and fellowship.We’d like to congratulate all the surfer/scholars that competed in this years NSSA National Championship. The amount of up-and-coming talent in today’s youth is insane and we look forward to what the future has in store for these rippers!

Mens (all ages) - DAVID O’KEEFE Womens (all ages) - SARA FREYRE Juniors (U16) - LUKE TEMA Girls (U16) - BELLA KENWORTHY Boys (U14) - LUCAS SENKBEIL Super Girls (U14) - MARLO LEIGH HARRIS Mini Groms (U12) - TANNER SANDVIG Mini Grom Girls (U12) - ZOEY KAINA Boys (U10) - KEALLI LAMBETH Girls (U10) - TEAGAN MEZA Longboard (all ages) - GAVIN IDONE Mens Airshow Champion - LUKE WYLER Junior Airshow Champion - QUAID FAHRION Girls Airshow Champion - BELLA KENWORTHY

Congratulations!

LUKE TEMA

2022 NATIONAL CHAMPION NSSA OPEN JUNIOR MENS

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Da Hui Paddle Board Race is Back for Its 42nd Year

Maldives Photo Chance Cacatian The Da Hui paddle board race is one of the biggest paddleboard races in the world and a summertime tradition on Oahu’s North Shore. Founded in 1978, the race ran for 41 consecutive years up until COVID-19 hit and forced the race to take a two-year hiatus. On July 4, 2022 the Da Hui Paddle Board Race returned to the North Shore for its 42nd year.

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The race was hosted in honor of Daryl Stant who passed away in April.

Proceeds of the event went towards the Hui O He’e Nalu Inc., a 501 (c) (3) non-profit that works to “educate, coordinate, preserve, and provide assistance to facilitate the advancement of Hawaiian activities and culture.”

On race day, conditions were less than ideal with choppy waves, 25 mph winds, and intermittent showers. But despite the weather, the stoke level was high with the community back together excited to race once again.

A lot of big names and familiar faces came out to support and compete

including Micah DeSoto, Jamie Mitchell, Moana Jones-Wong, Freddy Patacchia, and Michael Lorne and Mike Takahashi who have participated every year since the race was founded.

“In 2020 and 2021 we lost a lot of our friends and family, so to have everyone come out and support was pretty emotional,” said race director Mahina Chillingworth. “It was small, sweet, and community based—we felt blessed.”

The race began with a blessing and the distance race went from Turtle Bay to Waimea Bay while the sprint went from Sunset Beach to Waimea. Categories included SUP, paddleboard, OC1, OC2, parent/child tandem, surfboard, and adaptive. Chillingworth said the event was extra special because it felt like things had gone full circle—some of the racers that competed in the early years were back competing with and watching their children race.

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R Y A N B U R C H SHAPING IN THE DREAMSCAPE

The FreeSurf Interview

By Andrew Oliver

Like the great surfer-shaper icons who are synonymous with the major surfboard design revolutions of their respective eras - ie. Gerry Lopez, MR, Simon Anderson - San Diego’s Ryan Burch is at the bleeding edge of shaping and surfing experimental designs. While there is no shortage of backyard shapers tinkering with funky alt-crafts, the validity of Burch’s designs has been well-displayed in some of the most well documented, and celebrated, sessions of the last decade. Photos - Glaser

Burch’s connection to his vast array of surfboards is unparalleled, a trait developed out of necessity. “The waves here are pretty playful and forgiving,” Burch notes of his hometown of Encinitas, CA. “Growing up you're kind of encouraged to experiment because the standard surfboard isn't ideal for how slow our waves are.”

Photo - Glaser

F

or those who are relatively surf-savvy, Ryan Burch is a name they’re quite familiar with. Burch has been one the most influential surfer/shapers of the last decade, pushing the boundaries of creativity in the water and the shaping room.

Nearly a decade out from his debut on the world stage, it is clear to see the reverberations of Burch’s influence in the ascending popularity of alternative surfboard design, and the unique styles of waverding those boards facilitate. There is likely no surfer who is as strongly associated with their equipment, especially boards that they shaped themselves, as Burch is with his innovative designs. From his Rainbow Fish in Psychic Migrations, to the black-railed asyms from his sessions at G-Land and Cloudbreak, to the sawed-off chunk of raw foam he famously rode to surprising success, Burch has created seemingly unorthodox equipment to explore the limits of his surfing. The catch is, he’s proven them to work, time, and time again.

millenium. FreeSurf Photo Editor Brian Bielmann, who shot photos of the auspicious Chile trip which would provide the entirety of Burch’s footage for the film, witnessed first hand the incredible surfing display that would later reverberate through the surfing world.

“I don't think any of us realized at the time that it was a super important trip,” remembers Bielmann. “We were just stoked because we were in such a beautiful place. The local people were so cool to us. Burch had already created a relationship with the people, the surfers that lived there, and the shapers.”

Burch’s natural ability to forge a deeper bond whether it's with people, a place, the waves, or his equipment is a trait that Bielmann picked up on quickly, and would shine through later with the release of the film. “He was just on this whole other wavelength,” said Bielmann. “I think all of that came through with the movie and people realized just how unique and creative he is as a surfer and a person.”

A majority of that proof has come by way of Volcom’s widely acclaimed 2015 full-length surf film Psychic Migrations. Burch’s electric surfing in the dreamy sand-groomed points of Chile, on self shaped equipment, won the hearts of viewers, making him the unlikely star of one the most impactful films of the new

There was a lot of serendipity to Burch’s rise. At the time, the culture was ripe for a shake up. The competitive end of the spectrum was becoming increasingly homogenized with the commercial aspirations of the WSL. While surfing has always 34

had its share of iconoclasts, Burch wasn’t out to “Bust down the Door,” so to speak. He was on a journey to discover his full potential as a surfer and surfboard designer. And, through his unpretentious spirit we were all the more willing to join him on his trip. “I remember at the beginning of the trip, I heard that classic song, “King of the Road” playing downstairs at the place we were staying at. I thought, ‘That's an odd song to hear on a surf trip with a bunch of young pros.’ I walked downstairs to find it was Burch. I heard his music collection and the selection he was playing and instantly decided that I loved this guy!”

“We had such a good crew on that trip, with Nate Tyler and Ozzie Wright,” Bielmann continued, “their distinct personalities, everyone was so interesting to be around. And, obviously those guys are amazing surfers, but Burch stole the show. There was so much creativity coming out of him. It was one of those times when somebody's so connected, you know what I mean? Everything that he did seemed to flow perfectly.

From shaping those boards on site. And then, riding them in those waves. It was the most creative surfing I had seen in a long, long time.”

Now that the world isn't quite on lockdown as it was, have you been on any trips or have you got anything planned?

I've been pretty stationary for the last couple years, getting back in touch with my roots here in Southern California, but I have some things on the radar for sure. And I wanna start traveling a lot. I just recently bought a house, so I've been doing a bunch of home renovation projects and stuff that keeps me at home. So I've been enjoying my time here, but definitely looking to get the show back on the road again soon.

As you've been at home, are you just staying in your zone or are you doing road trips up north or down in Mexico? Or, are you just really keeping it super local?

I'm usually looking to go on a couple of road trips a year to chase surf on the west coast. I like going up anywhere north of point conception where it's a little more exposed to winter swells and getting some more juicy surf up there. But, aside from a couple strike missions up north and maybe the occasional Baja trip, I just mostly stick at home and surf local and kind of surf the same spots around Seaside.

I guess the beauty of what you do is that you have equipment for any condition?

Yeah, totally. And just living down here. I mean, it's easy to test longboards and to ride fishes and small wave boards, but it definitely forces me to travel when I want to test good wave equipment or guns or anything like that.

I would imagine there's probably a pretty solid demand for your boards. How have you managed that? Are you spending a lot more time in the shaping room than before?

I like to go in consistently like four days a week and, and put like six hours in or something like that. But, the whole running the business and keeping up on orders and organization and all that stuff is another thing. And so I've been working on trying to streamline my program a little bit and just be more efficient with my orders and my time management and stuff. The demand just got so high after COVID and the prices of everything went up to build a surfboard. So the industry has undergone a lot of changes recently, so I'm just trying to stay current with it. And everyone's charging a little more, so boards are getting more expensive, but I'm still spending the same amount of time on each one and trying to keep the quality high over anything else. The boards that I am shaping are going through the glass shop with a small crew of people who work on my boards. So there’s still a pretty long waiting list, even though I've been closed, in terms of taking orders, for eight months trying to catch up.

More demand than you could really ever keep up with.

More demand than I'm capable of keeping up with. And sometimes it gets a little bit draining when all your friends want their boards too, and then you're trying to pump out customs. That can get outta hand pretty easily.

A cycle of designing, test rides, and refinement provides what Burch describes as, “this endless source of inspiration and energy.” Photo - Glaser

What's it been like to see the increased awareness and interest into the type of equipment that you've really pushed the boundaries with?

I'm sure there was a time where people weren't paying much attention to what you're doing.

And now, there's more demand than you can even keep up with.

What has that transition been like for you over the years?

It's pretty wild to see it unfold before my eyes, like you said, it was something at first there wasn’t much attention paid to it. I was surfing all sorts of alternative stuff and people just thought that these wacky designs only worked for me because I was an adaptive surfer. And now seeing the designs pushed into the mainstream and pushed into the quivers of some of the world's best surfers, it's pretty wild to see what sort of performance enhancements a narrow twin fin, for example, might have to someone who surfs at the top level. It's a nice step into the future. I'm glad that I could spark the fire for a lot of people to try different stuff, because it obviously works for a wide range of surf styles.

Are there any design elements that have got you really sparked to work on right now?

Yeah, I've been messing a lot with different sorts of channels in the bottom contours and I got a couple basic outlines and dimensions that I've been running with for a while. So it's kind of a subtle adjustment at this point. I have my high performance board and I'm just trying to tweak on little things and tune it up to make it that much more of a complete package - with speed and versatility. So just trying to refine those boards. Also, I'm getting psyched on the idea of trying other technologies, because there's a lot of stuff out there now. And just to be hands on with some alternative sort of board builds and see if I can find something that is as exciting as

the polyurethane boards I've been riding for the last decade or so.

Think about the ebbs and flows surfers go through in their lives, in terms of staying motivated.

Being that you have, not only the board building, but also the competency to ride all these different types of equipment, you have access to so many avenues in surfing, has that helped feed the fire over the years?

Yeah, for sure. The fact that I can go jump on a longboard when the waves are one foot and clean, have a challenge at hand and it's something that I'm interested enough to push myself in and that it totally gets me involved, is I think a unique situation. And I often think how lucky I am that I have the board building knowledge to where I feel I need to go surfing so that I'm doing my research, that I'm keeping up on what I can change. Yeah. It's an interesting way that surfing's crept into my life and been this endless source of inspiration and energy. It gets me all rejuvenated.

Yeah, it's wild.

Talking about riding your own designs, I know for a lot of shapers surfing their own boards can at times take the fun out of a session. As they’re so focused on the design, and what they put into it, and what they hoped to get out of it. But, watching you surf, you seem like a free spirited surfer who’s not so much in their head and is really present in the moment.

How do you balance that mindset of Ryan, the designer, and Ryan, the surfer?

It has its ups and downs. I've definitely had my moments where I feel the pressure big time as I’m trying to always push myself and always do better. You have your own standards and I definitely am my own biggest critic. I try to enjoy it and learn new stuff from it. And, I'm kind of getting at an age where I'm not so performance driven so that stress starts to lift

off me and I'm just riding boards and trying to assess it realistically, and better my ability to create what I'm thinking.

I

feel like it bounced back and forth. I use the shaping bay to boost me back up when I'm not surfing well, and vice versa. I mean, there's pressure there, but I've been trying to learn how to deal with it.

This kind of goes back to your designs and equipment, and those influences becoming more mainstream. Obviously, Psychic Migrations, (2015 Volcom Surf Film) was a huge thing, in terms of exposing you to the greater surfing world. And looking back on it, there hasn't really been a film or an event in the free surfing realm that has had as much impact since then. What's it like, having been a part of that, and becoming a much wider known surfer as a result of it? What's that been like for you? Is that something you ever really expected?

No, it's nothing that I ever expected. It's strange how the stars aligned with that. And it reached so many people and seemed to change so much stuff.

I'm really happy that I had that experience and got to share a moment in my surfing timeline where things were really clicking and to share the experience as well. I think the fact that I built the board there on site and I had my own personal experience that gave me that much more inspiration to go out and surf that board well in front of a camera.

I'm just really stoked to have had that opportunity to shine and have gotten the waves we did and everything to fall into place. I definitely think that all the popularity from one thing like that is something I wasn't really ready for. And, I never thought that all of a sudden I'd be a really well known surfer for that, or for anything really. So yeah, it's kind of crazy in that regard.

“I actually had to sort of change my way of shooting to get used to Burch's surfing,” recalled photographer Brian Bielmann. “Because you didn't get the normal turns in the normal places. It wasn't the cookie cutter standard style of surf shooting that I'm used to. He would just do turns and things in the craziest places.

It was a retro sort of vibe, but progressive at the same time.”

Photo - Brian Bielmann

B

ut, it all kind of goes in waves, and I hope that it will just inspire the next generation to push the limits of design and push their own limits surfing. Together it can really create something unique. It's nice when someone's got the whole thing going on, they're pushing design, they're surfing it well, and they're doing it themselves and focusing on the craftsmanship. And yeah, I'm stoked to be able to share that and give the youth that inspiration.

You have worked with Volcom for a long time, and they arguably make some of the best surf movies of the last few decades. Ryan Thomas, “RT,” the director of their recent films is widely celebrated as one of the best surf film makers in the business. And, this I feel goes along with the stars aligning for you in your surfing and shaping. What's that feeling like to be in the hands of a master, like RT, and a company that really puts an effort behind their films?

That was the whole lure with riding for Volcom when I was at a crossroads and I was starting to get sponsored for doing what I wanna do. I had a relationship with RT already and I know him well and I love his vision and I love the way that he likes to portray surfing. So that made my decision pretty easy and to get the opportunity to work with him is pretty special. To ride for a company that's as

supportive of what I do over all these years as they’ve been, it has really helped me to be able to push what I do and I am super thankful for the work that I've had with them over the years and super stoked to been able to make some movie magic with RT. Talk a bit about the community you grew up in and how it has influenced you as a surfer/shaper?

Growing up here in the late 90s and early 2000s, there were a lot of people riding different boards at that time.

Fishes were making a big resurgence into surfing in general, but there was always that tradition here in San Diego and Southern California. Lots of people around here kept the boards from the past alive by riding them all the time. You’ve got your local legends here and they're on their old classic logs and they have their seventies single fin guns. And, they're applying different designs to different sorts of wave conditions. The waves here are pretty playful and forgiving. Growing up you're kind of encouraged to experiment because the standard surfboard isn't ideal for how slow our waves are. And then the big attraction from that point was to see if those boards would work when they're applied to somewhere like Indonesia or somewhere with a little more juice.

That was where I wanted to push myself and to travel with boards that were inspired by the boards that I grew up seeing, those classic San Diego designs, and see if I could tweak them and make them work in all these other places around the world in a variety of conditions. So that was probably the biggest challenge for me.

You had that amazing trip to Chile, for Psychic Migrations, and some pretty remarkable edits from sessions on your own experimental equipment at G-Land, the Mentawais, and Tavarua as well. What's that feeling like for you, when you're surfing is really clicking and you're on boards that you’ve shaped? And it’s worth noting, these shapes are quite different from what the other guys you're traveling with are riding. What's that feeling like, to be in those amazing waves, on your own boards, and everything is in sync?

Yeah. That's the dream right there, the dream I'm chasing at least. It's obviously really nice when everything's clicking like that. I’m stoked to make something that suits the way that I surf. There may have been a point in my life when I could have really focused on training, mental strategy, or competition strategy. Instead I shifted my head to being interpretive of design and trying to listen to what the board was telling me. To solve my surfing weaknesses by designing features in my board that I can make better. So I never consciously sat there and thought about how I could shift my weight differently on a late drop to make it so I stick to the face and don't get pitched. My approach was I need to make my nose have this channel in it so that I can enter the wave at a later point. And that was how I was pushing my surfing, it was through my design. And, so once that started to click and I started to surf the way I wanted to, that's when it really all started to connect.

“The big attraction,” Burch recalled, “was to see if those boards would work when they're applied to somewhere like Indonesia or somewhere with a little more juice.” In this case his test grounds are pumping Cloudbreak. Did the board work? From the look of it, that's a resounding, “Yes!” Photo - Glaser

RYA N B U R C H / S H A P I N G I N T H E D R E A M S C A P E

It's super interesting to think about it like that. With a standard high performance shortboard, there's obviously so many benefits to what that design can do, but you really do have to adapt your surfing to it in a lot of ways to get the best out of it.

But you’re approaching it in the reverse, and adapting your equipment, radically at times, to you.

I was lucky that my skill set with my tools was at the level to complement what I was coming up with design wise. And, taking everything I’ve learned from riding different sorts of stuff and really trying to question everything with my equipment.

Ryan Burch, surfer, shaper - stoked!

Photo - Glaser

Has there ever been a moment on any of these filming trips, where one of the other guys, who’s on standard equipment, is seeing you on your designs having the time of your life, and they say, “Hey, can I get on one of those?”

Oh for sure. All the time. More and more now that people trust the wacky stuff to work.

Also, there are a lot of times when the guys I’m traveling with are riding normal thrusters, they’re kinda looking for a different sort of wave than I was too. So I could shine in the down days of the trip, at times. When it's just waist high and peeling. It's perfectly suited for the fish in my board bag.

I've had a lot of good opportunities to get good clips on the random days or even riding a longboard. Traditionally, Volcom was never a company that would promote any sort of long boarding or anything like that. As I've naturally progressed in my own realm of surfing, they've continued to support me. To the point where they wanted to put a long boarding clip of me in one of their movies. I think that's kind of interesting too, where I could just go on a trip to a one foot point break and get some clips and hopefully inspire people.

42

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Standing in the middle of an F1 race may not be the best way to snap a shot of a speeding race car. At the Ma’alaea racetrack, however, there's no better spot to capture the action. Rafi Neri zooming along on the “fastest wave in the world.” Photo - Dayanidhi Das

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“Where the toes goes, the nose follows,” Kai Sallas (left), and Jackson Bunch (right), leading their distinct equipment, on two very different paths.

Photos - Tommy Pierucki, Dayanidhi Das

Mining some early morning California Gold with Dane Gudasukas.

Photo - Glaser

“All together now, everyone, say goodbye to the day’s sun.” Vince Boulanger, with a showy sunset farewell.

Photo - Mike Harris

With the deceiving distortion of distance caused by a fish eye lens, there's a good chance Balaram Stack may find himself dry-docked upon exiting this throaty Southern Californian barrel.

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Benji Brand, doing an excellent job of matching the iconic contours of Ala Moana with timeless style of his own.

Photos - Mike Ito

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Head in the clouds, or head in the tube, at times the feeling is indistinguishable. Joel Tudor (top), and Dawson Tylers (bottom) tapping into the source. Photos - MIke Harris

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Moana Jones Wong and Eli Hanneman Win Priority Destinations Pro presented by First Hawaiian Bank and Mastercard

Eli Hannemann Photo Heff / WSL Moana Jones Wong (HAW) and Eli Hanneman (HAW) emerged victorious at the World Surf League (WSL) Hawaii/Tahiti Nui Priority Destinations Pro presented

by First Hawaiian Bank and Mastercard, first stop of the 2022/23’ Hawaii/Tahiti Qualifying Series (QS) season, in spectacular fashion.

Pristine, four-to-six foot finals day conditions provided moments of magic that Wong and Hanneman were able to capitalize on throughout their respective runs to the Final.

From start to finish, Wong looked unstoppable on her insurmountable forehand as she posted multiple 9-point rides on the way to her second-career QS victory. The North Shore surfer overpowered a formidable Final including former Championship Tour (CT) competitor Coco Ho (HAW), world-renowned

Moana Jones Photo Heff / WSL

surfer Bethany Hamilton (HAW), and emerging star Puamakamae DeSoto (HAW) – starting with a near-perfect 9.25 (out of a possible 10).

"I'm super stoked and Bowls is super special to me," said Wong. "My grandpa is born and raised right here, and surfed this wave every day when he was growing up. To win at my grandpa's favorite wave is the best thing ever."

Wong’s Semifinal performance also notched her the best single-wave score of the women’s event with a 9.65 Following her dream run through the winter with back-to-back Pipeline victories, Wong now solidifies herself as a dominant threat in Hawaii/Tahiti Nui as she

starts the season ranked No. 1 where she left off at the end of the 2021/22’ season.

the event and his first-ever QS win. (Full interview in video above)

Spectators witnessed a dominant ending to competition for Hanneman in stacked Final affair featuring event threats Jackson Bunch (HAW), Joshua Moniz (HAW), and Kai Martin (HAW). The Maui competitor took to a massive, full rotation aerial assault to stomping the landing for a near-perfect 9.25 in the opening minutes of the Final. Hanneman then added a 6.00 backup to put his opponents on the ropes early before Bunch, Moniz and Martin began fighting back – Bunch accruing an excellent score alongside Moniz.

“It's been a long time since I've won a contest and it feels nice. It felt good to out and do I what I do. Sometimes when you surf contest and heats it kind of suppresses you're capabilities, and you tend to hold back sometimes.

It felt good to go out and put it all on the line.

But, Hanneman all but shut the door with his backhand attack, combined with another brilliant rotation for a 9.00 to earn the highest heat total of

Hanneman now returns to the Challenger Series for his shot of keeping this momentum alive heading into South Africa and qualification toward the CT. DeSoto's recent run of success between the amateur level at Ala Moana Bowls and representing Hawaii at the ISA World Junior Championships gave her all the confidence heading into the QS. The 16-year-old's forehand was

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Priority Destinations Pro @ Ala Moana Bowls MIKE LATRONIC PHOTO

Bethany Hamilton Photo Heff / WSL

Women’s Final Results: 1 – Moana Jones Wong (HAW) 17.35 1,000 points 2 – Puamakamae DeSoto (HAW) 15.35 800 points 3 – Coco Ho (HAW) 15.20 650 points 4 – Bethany Hamilton (HAW) 11.65 600 points

Kai Martin Photo Heff / WSL

sharp from her first heat until her last to earn a careerbest runner-up. DeSoto battled with Wong in both her Semifinal and Final heat, besting former CT veteran Ho in the process as she moves forward ranked No. 2 in the region.

"I had a shocker on finals day in El Salvador (for ISA) so coming into this event I knew I could it if I just showed up and surfed, and was just myself and connect with the ocean," said DeSoto. "It was just a matter of doing that.

Yesterday was so much, got two heat wins and today had two heats with Moana (Jones Wong). She got me in both of them but she was ripping and it's just so awesome to have the opportunity to be here."

Eventual runner-up Bunch made his presence known in a big way throughout finals day, accruing multiple excellent scores and near-perfect heat of 18.00 in the Semifinals.

This marks a career-best result on the QS for Bunch after overcoming event threats such as Ian Gentil (HAW), Tanner Hendrickson (HAW), Billy Kemper (HAW) and more. Hanneman's fellow Maui competitor now sits at No. 2 on the regional QS rankings with a strong foothold toward Challenger Series qualification early on.

"It was kind of hard not to just give it everything, the waves were just firing," said Bunch. "Had a close one in the Quarters and after that I knew I just had to wait on the best waves. There were plenty so it was easy to do that. I just want to do good in a couple contests and give myself a chance at the Challenger Series. That's my main goal so I'll give it my best run."

The next Hawaii/Tahiti Nui event on schedule will be the Sunset Pro QS 1000 beginning October 28 November 6.

Men’s Final Results: 1 – Eli Hanneman (HAW) 18.25 1,000 points 2 – Jackson Bunch (HAW) 16.75 800 points 3 – Joshua Moniz (HAW) 15.60 650 points 4 – Kai Martin (HAW) 14.35 600 points

Eli Hannemann Photo Heff / WSL

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I N D USTRY NOTES

Surf Expo Announces Upcoming Shows Produced in January and September at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Florida, Surf Expo features thousands of apparel and hard goods brands and a full line-up of special events, including fashion shows, industry parties, annual awards ceremonies, and more.

Surf Expo is a TRADE ONLY EVENT and is not open to the public. Upcoming shows are September 8-10, 2022, and January 4-6, 2023.

Bodyboarding US Festival in Ocean Beach, CA We are getting ready for the BODYBOARDING US FESTIVAL 2022 in Ocean Beach, CA - on November 12 & 13. This year's event will be part of the APB North America Tour which will crown North America's champions.

The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez Patagonia’s The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez, directed by Stacy Peralta, lifts the veil on one of surfing’s most enigmatic heroes. While famous for his calm demeanor in the tube, Gerry built

Indo’s been going off and Nathan Florence scored the wave of a lifetime at Lance’s Right. You’ve probably seen the video but in case you haven’t, here’s a still.

his career with aggressive surfing that left behind a trail of blood and tears.

Gerry is radical and Zen. He’s an entrepreneur, family man, movie star, and yogi whose influence on surfing is immeasurable. For the first time, his story is told in full.

2022 Maui Film Festival: Stardust Cinema The Maui Film Festival presented Stardust Cinema featuring 13 Maui premieres, including several 'surprise' titles, over five nights under the stars. Some of our favorites include:

Polly Ralda Becomes Peace Ambassador for Guatemala Big-wave surfer, Polly Ralda, has taken some time away from the North Shore to visit her home country where she was declared a Peace Ambassador by the government of Guatemala.

We’re proud of you Polly!

Facing Monsters Facing Monsters is a featurelength documentary that digs deep into the psyche of West Australian 'slab wave' surfer Kerby Brown, a man whose connection with the ocean runs as deep as his love for his family.

WSL Supports Sustainability Efforts in Saquarema WSL teamed up with SOS Mata Atlântica, Mar Sem Lixo, and Escola de Surf de Saquarema on a planting and beach cleanup along with surfers Caio Ibelli and Isabella Nichols. At Saquarema, the Massambaba Environmental Protected Area (Apa da massambaba) helps to conserve coastal lagoons, native vegetation and dunes that not only support the powerful beach break of Praia de Itaúna, but also protect watersheds and the home for many species, some facing the risk of extinction.

Pe’ahi A homeless thirteen-yearold surfer from Maui forms a friendship with his hero, pro-surfer, and big wave world champion, Kai Lenny.

Kai teaches him how to surf the infamous big wave, Pe'ahi, also known as Jaws.

The Good Dolphins by Pedro Furtado In the estuary of Laguna, south of Brazil, there is a special group of Dolphins that are known to help the fisherman catch their

Nathan Florence Scores in the Mentawai’s 62

favorite fish, the Mullet. The fishermen call them, “The Good Dolphins” and they have been working together for the last 150 years.

Pollution, illegal fishing nets, and jet skis are threatening this special relationship and it is up to the fisherman to save it.

Kelly Slater: Lost Tapes Out of the Box Kelly Slater: Lost Tapes gives fans the rare opportunity to witness never-before-seen footage of the best surfer on the planet. From free surfs to travel to adventures around the world, these are uncut and unfiltered moments from before, after, and outside competition. Follow 11-time World Champion Kelly Slater as he navigates another transformative season of his legendary career.

Kona Costa Wins Griffin Colapinto Board in NSSA Essay Competition Kona Costa did not win the top spot at the NSSA nationals this year but he did come away with Griffin Colopinto’s board that he won in Australia, which was the prize in an essay competition.

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I ND USTRY NOTES to the semi-finals in his division at the national surf competition.

Turn and Go! 50 Years of Surf Writing by Steve Pezman A collection of essays, profiles, interviews, reportings, and other musings from Steve Pezman’s time at Surfer magazine and The Surfer’s Journal, along with a selection of previously unpublished work, Turn and Go! is the documentation of five decades of wave riding, its icons, its landmarks, and its broader culture from the pen of TSJ’s first editor and cofounder, who didn’t just pay witness, but lived at surfing’s gravitational center.

Lily Meola Gets the Golden Buzzer on America’s Got Talent Matt Meola’s little sister, Lily, sang her heart out on America’s Got Talent, earning herself the last golden buzzer of Season 17. She performed an original song, “Daydream,” which was both beautiful and emotional. We look forward to hearing more from her.

The Seas Are Rising And So Are We Learn, Volunteer or Donate www.surfrider.org

Shakira Copes with Breakup Through Surfing Pop-sensation, Shakira appears to be coping with her recent breakup on a surf trip in northern Spain. She is said to be joined by a mysterious hunk, rumored to be a surf instructor.

Barton Lynch Told his Services Won’t be Needed

by WSL The world’s most famous surf commentator posted a video to his social media explaining why he won’t be back in the booth this year. After offering his services to the WSL, he was told he won’t be needed for commentary.

But when one door closes, another opens, and Lynch is already talking about new opportunities. We’re excited to see what’s to come!

Oi Rio Pro Presented by Corona Carissa Moore (HAW) and Filipe Toledo (BRA) won the Oi Rio Pro Presented by Corona, Stop No. 8 on the World Surf League (WSL) 2022 Championship Tour (CT). The competition finished off in spectacular fashion in front of a huge crowd at Praia de Itaúna in Saquarema, Brazil. Five-time WSL Champion Moore defeated Johanne Defay (FRA) in the Finals, while Toldo took out rookie Samuel Pupo (BRA), to earn his third-straight event win in Saquarema and his fourth overall at the Oi Rio Pro.

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As the spectators crowd the edge of the gladiotor’s pit, a lone warrior having freshly slain the beast exclaims, “Are you not entertained!?” The draw of possible carnage has intoxicated the masses for time eternal. Here, The Wedge stands in for the ancient amphitheater, and Dawson Tylers as a modern day gladiator.

Photo - Mike Harris