Freesurf Sept 2022 v19n9 by Freesurf Magazine

CODE RED 2 Kai Lenny Photo Dayanidhi Das FREE V19N9 Sept 2022

FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA TorresCarlos|TURKOQUENTIN

FREE PARKING

Missing in this photo is the grand scale of Maalaea, the 100’s of yards of “freight train” barrels that storm down the reef. But, even in this truncated vision it's mesmerizing. Unidentified, train hopping. Photo Marcus Rodrigues

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries info@freesurfmagazine.comto A product of Manulele, Inc. 2022 Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Andrew Oliver Photo Director Brian Bielmann Art Director John Weaver Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 West Coast Distribution & Sales Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 Wholesale Inquiries & Hawai‘i Distribution (808) 638-7395 Staff Shooters Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, Andrew Oliver, John Contributing Writers Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons Contributing Photographers Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke Scan code for an JamExclusiveSession Brought to you by FEATURING Tavana & Mike Love

TABLE OF CONTENTS 6 Free Parking 14 Cover Story 16 Editor's Note 18 News & Events 28 Maalaea 40 Aperture 48 Lucas Godfrey 62 Industry Notes 64 Stuff We Like 66 Last Look

The Code Red 2 swell that churned its way up the pacific, maxed out Teahupo'o, nearly washed through Town, exploded at Maalaea, pulsed at all points known and unknown inbetween, did not forget to pay a visit to the gathering of humans at Malibu. One of the busiest stops along the swell's northward journey. Photo - Brian Bielmann

48GodfreyLucas28FEATURESMaalaeaAperture40

COVER STORY / KAI LENNY Reservation

www.worldsurfaris.com Handpicked surfadventures since 1997 sean@worldsurfaris.com (877) 617-1328 Pacifc IndoMaldivesIslands and more!

The Surfline cam got washed away while I was watching the break, so I knew something significant was headed here. Little did I know that it would be the best Maalaea of my lifetime. Talking to the older guys that have been around since the seventies and sixties, they all said this was the best Maalaea they had ever seen.

Maalaea has the best waves in the world every 20 years.

Throughout the day the swell just kept on increasing and the waves were getting bigger and bigger. By the evening it was 8-10 foot Hawaiian. I have never surfed waves, more perfect in my entire life. They were so long and they were so fast. To Keep up with it you had to ride a bigger board than normal. I think a lot of people were caught off guard by the amount of speed and wind you had to battle to get down the line. Looking back on the day, it has to be one of the best surf sessions I've ever had on Maui, if not anywhere in the world.

Because waves don't get more perfect than that. It looked like Kelly Slater's surf ranch, just 8-10 foot versus 2-3 foot. There were some crazy waves going down and I kept pinching myself. This is really happening. This is really happening. I found myself getting a really good rhythm and I was able to be in the right place at the right time for when the big waves showed up and being inside those barrels, they were so cylindrical and perfect. You couldn't help but scream because you're having so much fun. Specialist Sean Walker

The last time it was good was 2005. I was 13 and that was 17 years ago. I have been waiting my entire life for a moment to surf this wave 8-10 foot Hawaiian. I can remember being a kid driving down the mountain, seeing the plumes of spray going 50 to a hundred feet in the air. And just wishing that I was old enough to surf it. My friend and I went down there and we paddled out and I can remember just being so terrified at the size of these waves that I didn't want to go all the way to the peak. But years later, I came to regret not taking that leap of faith and going out there and going for it. So when this swell arrived, it was a real surprise. We all saw Tahiti was “Code Red,”, and it was absolutely massive.

EDITOR'S NOTE

Dick Brewer died at the age of 85 on March, 29th of this year. His life was celebrated by friends and family (pictured above) at Waimea Bay on August, 7th. Look out for a forthcoming article on Brewer’s influence as shaper of Boards of Consequence in the November issue.

Photo Aukai Ng

The Marks of History By Andrew Oliver Like the thoroughly notched doorway in your parents home, the one which proudly commemorates the milestones of your youth with recurring measurements of height, the history of surfing also coincides with “highwater marks” taken over the years. Swells that have rocked the coastline seemingly unrecognizable. The extreme conditions which inevitably play host to memorable performances that grow in legend and lore as time marches on. The much hyped “Code Red 2” swell which swept through the southern pacific in mid-July, is one such event, and it will be a benchmark for years to come.

It's remarkable how much our personal experience shapes our memories of significant events. For example, a recurring theme among the Maui chargers still reeling from their epic Maalaea sessions was how they were determined to make the most of the historic swell, as for many of Valley Isle’s current crop of top-performers, their last chance at the notorious “freight train” was early grommethood. Upon reflection, each echoed the sentiment of being too young and intimidated to take advantage of the last time the wave broke on the same scale. And, vowing to take full advantage of the day in which their ability, quite literally, caught up with the wave. Days like these have a strange way of haunting us. When our ability is pushed to the limit, we either walk away triumphant or with that aching feeling of self defeat - vowing to ourselves to surf without hesitation - next time. For most of us, these days are rare. We either live in areas not frequented by big surf, or we’ve thoroughly calibrated our limits and know which days to remain dry-docked. However, there has always been an elite group among us, a small percentage of surfers who purposefully live in that realm - forever seeking to push their limits and the limits of surfing as a whole. Their performances give context to these mega swells, transcending them from extreme weather events to moments in surfing history. In the early days, the stories of unthinkable achievements in big surf which made their way to the culture at large were more myth than fact. Through this cloud of tall tales and hyperbole a figure emerged. A sorcerer of sorts, equal parts mystical and tangible, who through his big wave surfboard designs made many of these impossible feets, for those willing to dare them, possible.

Dick Brewer, one of the pioneers of the shortboard design in the late 60’s, continued to be endlessly influential for another five decades. In the previous half century, it is hard to quantify how many history defining sessions went down on boards shaped by Brewer, or at their very least directly influenced by his designs. As we look at the doorway of well-tallied measurements of surfing’s history of the last 50 years, marking the swells worthy of memory, we know that Brewer’s hands, the same which plowed the foam of such significant craft, also helped etch those notches of record.

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Bettylou Sakura Johnson of Hawai'i surfs in the Finals at the VANS US Open of Surfing Photo Beatriz Ryder/WSL

A massive Finals Day crowned Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW), Ezekiel Lau (HAW), Kelis Kaleopa’a (HAW), and Taylor Jensen (USA) victors at the Vans US Open of Surfing, Stop No. 4 of the World Surf League (WSL) Challenger Series, and Vans Duct Tape Invitational, respectively. Sakura Johnson and Lau took critical wins at the halfway mark of the Challenger Series season in their mission to rejoin the Championship Tour (CT) while the second of three stops for WSL Longboard Tour tighten the World Title race with Kaleopa’a and Jensen emerging victorious.

Jensen Earns Another Huntington Beach Event Title, Entering into World Title Conversation Eventual runner-up Stewart got the Final underway against three-time WSL Longboard Champion, Jensen, and a showcase of world-class longboarding ensued. Jensen notched a near-excellent 7.67 for the heat’s first noteworthy score before a crucial exchange provided the Oceanside, California competitor a 6.17 back up. Stewart, in that exchange, earned a 6.00 and needed a 7.84 to catch Jensen. The dying seconds provided one last opportunity for the Hawaiian to answer back, but to the elation of Jensen, he fell short of the requirement.

The South Shore, Oahu competitor had to overcome event standout Eithan Osborne (USA) in a stout Semifinal clash with Lau holding the explosive competitor at bay. Now, the Ultimate Surfer winner moves up to No.4 on the Challengers Series rankings with this landmark win.

NEWS & EVENTS

Ezekiel Lau of Hawai'i surfs in heat 1 of the Quarterfinals at the VANS US Open of Surfing Photo Beatriz Ryder/WSL

The men’s Challenger Final kept everyone on the edge of their seats as Lau and Chianca went wave-forwave until the last seconds. Chianca controlled the first half of the heat with big, committed turns on the outside. But, with about ten minutes left, Lau

Hawaiians staked their claim on Finals Day with representatives in every Final today. Sakura Johnson found herself against Australia’s former CT elite Callaghan. Callaghan’s opening 5.67 (out of a possible 10) pushed her into an early lead as Sakura Johnson fought back to take a slim lead heading into the twenty-minute mark. Then, the 17-yearold, 2022 CT rookie found her chance under priority and unloaded her powerful forehand on the shorebreak for a 6.93. As time expired, Callaghan wasn’t given another opportunity and Sakura Johnson was chaired to her second Challenger Series victory. “It’s been a long week here at Huntington, but I have all the support and everything I need, I’m healthy, I’ve been training for this, I’m super fortunate to take the win,” said Sakura Johnson. “It gives me a ton of confidence (winning the event). This is one of the biggest events we have on the Challenger Series, everyone is here watching. I’ve always wanted to win a comp out here and I'm super stoked I was able to do it today.”

Bettylou Sakura Johnson, Ezekiel Lau, Kelis Kaleopa’a, and Taylor Jensen Win Vans US Open of Surfing and Vans Duct Tape Invitational

A brilliant ending to the event began with Sakura Johnson taking on event threat and now Challenger Series No. 5, Sophie McCulloch (AUS). But, Johnson notched another 9.00, her second of the event, with a 15.50 (out of a possible 20) heat total and backed it up in the Final to move up the rankings to No. 4 as she looks to requalify for the CT. made a comeback, throwing two large turns out the back to earn a 6.90 and take the lead. Chianca answered back with a powerful layback and inside hack, scoring a close 6.23. With one minute left, Chianca had one more opportunity to better his score but fell short, making Lau the new men’s victor of the Vans US “I’mOpen.so stoked, I’ve always wanted to win the US Open, it’s been an event I’ve watched since I was a young kid,” said Lau. “Andy Irons won a few years back, he was my role model, and this is for him and Sunny and all the Hawaiians. When Bettylou won her’s (Final heat) I was like, it’s up to me now, I gotta put this away.”

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Kaleopa’a Goes Back-to-Back at Vans Duct Tape Invitational A head-to-head Hawaiian Final ensued between reigning, three-time WSL Longboard Champion Blomfield and reigning Vans Duct Tape Invitational winner Kaleopa’a. The emerging talent, Kaleopa’a, styled into a quick 6.67 and 5.90 to hold a lead over Blomfield heading into the halfway mark. Kaleopa’a extended the lead, making her fellow Hawaiian need a 7.20 in the dying minutes. But, the ocean didn’t provide an opportunity and the 17-yearold emerged victorious once “Huggingagain. my cousin (Stewart) in the water after that final was just so heartwarming,”said Kaleopa’a. “Literally my whole entire family and friends and our surf community back at home are my motivation when I’m out here because we come from such a special place. I grew up my entire life surfing around my uncles and aunties, I do this for them as a thankyou for introducing me to this sport, this passion I love so much.”

Vans Duct Tape Invitational Men's Final 1Results:-Taylor Jensen (USA) vs. 13.84 2 - Kaniela Stewart (HAW) 11.60

Vans Duct Tape Invitational Men's Semifinal Results: Heat 1: Taylor Jensen (USA) 14.83 vs. Kaimana Takayama (USA) 10.57 Heat 2: Justin Quintal (USA) 12.66 vs. Kaniela Stewart (HAW) 13.30 Honolua Blomfield Photo Beatriz Ryder/WSLKaniela Stewart Photo Beatriz Ryder/WSLKelis Kaleopa'a Photo Beatriz Ryder/WSL

Vans Duct Tape Invitational Women's Semifinal Results: Heat 1: Kelis Kaleopa'a (HAW)11.24 vs. Kaitlin Mikkelsen (USA) 7.70 Heat 2: Honolua Blomfield (HAW) 15.43 vs. Rachael Tilly (USA) 10.10

Kaleopa’a started her day against WSL Longboard Tour veteran Kaitlin Mikkelsen (USA) who pushed the young Hawaiian to deliver a brilliant performance. Now, the Waikiki, Oahu surfer moves to a No.1 tie with Blomfield on the rankings, giving her another chance to claim her maiden World Title at the Cuervo Classic Longboard Championship.

NEWS & EVENTS

Vans US Open of Surfing Men's Semifinal Results: Heat 1: Ezekiel Lau (HAW) 12.77 vs. Eithan Osborne (USA) Heat11.432: Evan Geiselman (USA) 12.64 vs. Joao Chianca (BRA) 12.54

Vans US Open of Surfing Women's Semifinal Results: Heat 1: Macy Callaghan (AUS) 12.33 vs. Caroline Marks (USA) 8.33 Heat 2: Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) 15.50 vs. Sophie McCulloch (AUS) 14.10

“I tried to pick clean rights, make sure I got the reform, finish strong and put it all together, said Jensen. “These are all the best surfers in the world. I’ve had a couple bad results so to get a win here close to home sets me up for going to Malibu and I’m happy with where I am.”

Vans US Open of Surfing Women's Final Results: 1 - Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) 212.00-Macy Callaghan (AUS) 10.40 Vans US Open of Surfing Men's Final 1Results:-Ezekiel Lau (HAW) 12.40 2 - Joao Chianca (BRA) 11.43 Vans Duct Tape Invitational Women's Final Results: 1 - Kelis Kaleopa'a (HAW) 12.97 2 - Honolua Blomfield (HAW) 11.47

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By Noah Cohen All Photos - Willi Edwards/Rip Curl

Malia Moana Lima, who took top honors in the 16 & Under Girls division was another who appeared completely unfazed by the tumultuous sea conditions throughout the event. Lima had the head-down-and-going approach on every bomb that surfaced during the girl’s final. At about the 12-minute mark she snapped her fresh round-pin.

Ha’a Foster, the water safety member on hand, didn’t miss a beat, swooping her and the remaining pieces of the splintered Tokoro onto his rescue board and getting her straight to the jetty in mere moments. While many would have called it a heat, holding a lead with less than ten to go, Lima grabbed her backup board and began kicking and scratching for the take-off zone, eager to cement her position atop the podium.

Rip Curl GromSearch Goes Code Red at Kewalo Basin

“You’re going to work extra hard in this one, for sure, but if you manage to win today and earn your spot into the Rip Curl GromSearch National Final, held at the Surf Ranch in Lemoore, California, you won’t duck dive a single wave. I promise.”

Amidst the tantalizing and terrifying Tahitian visuals surfacing on social media during the Rip Curl GromSearch’s angsty lead-up, it was challenging, admittedly, not to wonder a little if we could hold a grom contest in this kind of heavy water.

I chuckled internally at this, but the man raised a good point. All four of the “Race to the Ranch” qualifiers coming out of Kewalos were undeniably going to earn every ounce of the fresh-water perfection come December.

Additional safety was hired as a result of the forecast, and in the end, it turned out to be an absolutely amazing event. “We were pretty sure a mainlander like you would call the contest off, to be honest,” joked one competitor’s mom. The action was unrelenting all day as the southern hemi energy dutifully marched in, each set larger than the one preceding it. The outstretched finger of the Kewalo Basin jetty that normally points to a gentle left-hander had transformed into a giant, raging reef pass. Throaty lefts detonated at the peak and stretched across the typically still deep-water channel. Joining forces with the cylindrical spinning rights at Point Panic, the swell tested the anchor chains on the marker buoys time and time again.

“Hey guys, guess what?” Kaipo Guerrero posed rhetorically into the microphone as another set mowed down a trio of groms treading water in territory normally referred to as “the channel.”

Luke Tema Malia Moana Lima

NEWS & EVENTS

seamystichawaii.com BIODEGRADEABLE & RECYCLED MATERIALS Nalu Deodato NEWS & EVENTS

Rip Curl would like to say a massive mahalo to the lifeguards and event security for allowing us to complete such an awesome event at Kewalos, as well as all our GromSearch Series partners: Banzai Bowls, Flexfit, YETI, SunBum, GoPro, FCS, Oakley, …Lost, Softech Surfboards, Wahoo's Fish Taco.

Hawaiian, and aptly dubbed Aqua Kasuya, seemed right at home in the sinister conditions. With the frontrunners of the bombing swell hitting right as Kasuya found his position in the turbulent lineup, he whipped around without hesitation, air-dropping to the elation of the crowd, he was quickly engulfed in a giant aquatic avalanche. “Man, I got so drilled by that thing,” Kasuya smiled after scrambling up the jetty after his heat. In the semifinals of the 14 & Under division, Aqua hucked himself over the ledge on an absolute monster, but after wearing the wave on the head ended up having to sit out the final due to an injured knee. For the effort, Aqua was awarded the Banzai Bowls Maneuver of the Event and $300 for his hard-charging effort.

Perhaps the biggest takeaway from the past two days of Pacific Ocean energy was that the current crop of young Hawaiian rippers won’t hesitate to go when the size spikes. The standouts of the 16 &Under Boys division charged with reckless abandon, putting on a clinical display well beyond their years.

In a seesaw battleground of non-stop six-foot sets, the boys went blow for blow in the final. With numerous lead changes, hammering huge sections and threading throaty tubes, Luke Tema took the win, while Nalu Deodato and Kai Martin both gave him a run for his money with numbers in the excellent Hard-chargingrange.

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HST (UTC-10), 7 days a week HAND-CRAFTED ALOHA IN EVERY CUP® kaicoffeehawaii.com Results Boys 12/U 1st Kona Costa 14.94 2nd Kealii Lambeth 12.33 3rd Kaden Awad 11.60 4th Matias Banto 7.96 Boys 14/U 1st Kenny Nishimoto 11.77 2nd Braedon Harris 9.14 3rd Reef Isono 8.16 4th Aqua Kasuya 0.00 Girls 16/U 1st Malia Moana Lima 11.30 2nd Coco Hakikawa 7.24 3rd Pua DeSoto 6.43 4th Hope McCarren 2.63 Boys 16/U 1st Luke Tema 15.80 2nd Nalu Deodato 15.63 3rd Kai Martin 14.67 4th Matteus Santos 10.86 Banzai Bowls “Maneuver of the Event” – Aqua Kasuya …Lost High Heat Total Winner – Kai Martin Softech Expression Session Winner – Kielan Jardini NEWS & EVENTS Boys 12/U Girls 16/U

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MAALAEA

It really does feel like it was all a dream. Words can scarcely describe what was experienced by several hundred of Hawai'i's finest surfer's, and witnessed by thousands of spectators. It was euphoric, monumental, historic. Perhaps one of the most remarkable days of big wave barrel riding to ever go down. Freight trains has long been referred to as "the fastest wave in the world" as well as "the 8th wonder of the world." My first experience surfing there in the mid eighties as a teenager was the beginning of a lifetime obsession.

By Jud Lau

Kai Lenny, eyeing a date with destiny. Photo Stu Soley

The incredible righthander is actually named Freight Trains after the way it steams down the line and the sound the sections make as they pitch out and land in the flats with a very loud and rythmic chuga-chuga-chuga. Sitting in the lineup as a set rolls by you would swear an actual freight train was rushing by!

As many Maui surfers have noticed, I am always there, checking it, sometimes just sitting and watching it for hours, waiting for it to turn on. Freights is also the most fickle wave in the world. Typically it will break just a few times every summer, somewhere in the waist to slightly overhead size range. On these typical swells the sets are always very inconsistent, sometimes over 20 minute waits. But when it does turn on, everything else becomes secondary.

The Freight Train line up sits just adjacent to the Ma'alaea Harbor entrance where many fishing charter boats, small private fishing boats, Molokini dive tours, and whale watch tours among others launch. The Maui division of the US Coast Guard is stationed here as well. The first cattle to arrive on Maui landed here at Ma'alaea in 1793, and Maui's first airport was established here in 1929. About a decade ago, The Surfrider Foundation Maui Chapter was successful in preventing the Army Corp of Engineers from extending the breakwall which would have significantly impacted the reef and the magnificent Freight Trains. Thankfully we can still enjoy this outstanding break from time to time.

The most peculiar thing that I've noticed over the years is that it never really does anything in between the typical 2 to 4 ft inconsistent swell and these bombing 8 ft unicorn swells. It's definitely a feast-or-famine type of phenomena. In the 38 years that I have been surfing here on Maui, there have been only 3 of these magnificent occurrences. 1999, 2005, and 2022.

Photo - Dayanidhi Das Makua Rothman, in what could technically be called the best layover ever.

Torrey Meister, is originally from the Big Island, has resided on Oahu’s North Shore for years, and has just recently made the move to Maui. Here he is, with no regrets on his decision.

Photo - Merrill Kalopodes

The 1999 swell was solid 6 to 8 ft for two days and the wind conditions were impeccable. Perfect light to moderate, straight offshores. I caught 2 of the best ways of my life as I was 29 years old and nearing my prime. Local standouts included Lloyd Ishimine, Analu DePonte, Chris Vandervoort, Eric Totah, Mark Anderson, and many others. Pancho Sullivan, Myles Padaca, Michael Ho, and a handful of other Oahu pros flew over and scored some perfection.

The 2005 swell was solid 6-8 and lasted two days as well but the wind was quite a bit stronger and not quite so straight offshore, veering a bit more side offshore and creating a bit of side shop and ribs to contend with, although some incredible rides still went down. I unfortuneately suffered stitches to my hand when someone ditched their board right in front of me as I was driving through a barrel on the morning of the first day of this swell and missed most of this event. Some of the best rides of this swell were had by Alika Moepono, Nalu Wallace, Micah Nickens, and Matt Kinoshita. If you haven’t already heard, Maalaea is fast. Imai deVault (Top) Steve Roberson (Bottom) keeping pace with the world's fastest wave. Photos - Marcus Rodrigues

Billy Kemper, with one of the few documented direction changes of the swell. Photo - Stu Soley

And then a 17 year hiatus! And then fireworks! The greatest show on Earth! This swell was a notch bigger than the others, I'm calling solid 10 ft sets (20' faces) Saturday afternoon/evening and occasionally on Sunday. Incredible performances were seen by the likes of Kai Lenny, Ian Walsh, Eli Hanneman, Jackson Bunch, Imaikalani DeVault, Ty Simpson-Kane, Kevin Sullivan, Tanner Hendrickson, Ian Gentil, Sai Smiley, Kelson Lau, Tyler Larronde, Tom Dosland, and many others; as well as a host of Oahu and outer island surfers including Gavin Beschen, Billy Kemper, Michael Ho, Ulu Napeahi, Makua Rothman, Eala Stewart, Lucas Godfrey, Luke Shepardson, Mikey Redd, Kona Oliviera, Ezra Sitt, and many others. Some notable young chargers included Rafi Neri and the Roberson brothers- Justin, Eric, and Steve.

Just the fact that Kai Lenny proclaimed his 11 second tube ride to be the longest he has ever gotten on an ocean produced wave, alone, is probably enough to support this claim. And that was just one of many, many extraordinary rides!

The videos and photos don't really do justice to just how intense and intimidating this wave is. It is basically a thick slab that rifles down the line for a couple hundred yards at extra high speed! It is incredibly shallow and whenever there is a big swell, big chunks of reef get flipped over leaving exposed reef in areas just inside of the breaking waves. Several new chunks were flipped over by this swell. There were many encounters with the reef and endless broken boards throughout the weekend. Kai Lenny is locked in, with no sight of an exit anytime soon. Photo - Stu Soley

With the consistency and size of this swell combined with favorable winds, and so many of the world's best barrel riders on hand, this has to have been one of the most notable barrel riding events to ever take place.

H ITECHSURFSPORTS EST1982 · MAUIHI40 YEARS 808-877-2111 || @hitechsurf PHOTODAYANIHDI LEEKS PHOTO 1997 IANWALSH SAME WAVE, SAME SURFER...25 YEARS LATER 2022

The non stop adrenaline and energy, all day long for two days straight, whether in the water or watching from the shoreline was like nothing I've ever experienced! It took nearly a week to recover mentally and emotionally, and even longer for some physical injuries. I just can't stop thinking about the fact that if it takes another 17 years for another swell like this, that I will be 69 years old, and will probably not be wanting to be in the line up, and may be just enjoying the spectacle from the shoreline. Or perhaps I will be searching out some random mysto spots down the coast. Probably a bit of both....

For young pros like Kai Paula, pictured here, this potentially could be the first of several magical Maalaea swells in his career. Kai with fingers crossed. Photo - Dayanidhi Das

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CODE RED AmazingatTheAPERTURE2CodeRed2beganwitharoarthenotoriousTeahupo'oreef.momentswerehadacross the pacific, but none were as intense as those at the end of the road in Tahiti. Photo - Domenic Mosqueira

Photo - Brian Bielmann

It wasn’t all death defying moments, and pedal to the metal speed, Code Red 2 also delivered a few moments to lean back and relax, Sam Heck at Malibu.

(Top Left) Sophia Arky, Photo - Brian Bielmann, (Top Right) Ty Burgess, Photo - James Ferrel, (Mid Left) Allen Sarlo, Photo - Brian Bielmann, (Bottom) Unknown bodyboarder, Photo - Aukai Ng

When the surfs aplenty the fun never stops.

An unknown ripper locks into a Code Red 2 gem, location - undisclosed. Photo -Noa Napoleon

GodfreyLucas By Aukai Ng

The Banzai Pipeline is touted by many as the most rewarding yet consequential wave on the planet. Over the decades, only a very few have mastered this world famous surf break and those who have, certainly made names for themselves. But how does one master Pipeline and how does a surfer make riding the wave look effortless? Putting your time in is one factor and living right near the break lends advantage.

Top performers like Jamie O’Brien and John Florence grew up right on the beach at Ehukai but there are other North Shore

Photo Brent Bielmann

How did you get into surfing, did anyone teach you? I definitely have to credit my father because if it wasn't for my father, I probably wouldn't be a surfer today. So it was kind of natural. I'd see him going surfing every day. And then eventually I wanted to go with him. He didn't really push me to be a surfer, but I think I just wanted to be included with whatever he was doing and it took me a minute. I didn't really catch on immediately, but I think around nine years old, I had a good surf session finally, and I was just like, ‘Okay, I wanna do this for the rest of my life.’

People can see from your tube riding that you are one of the best at Pipeline. What did it take for you to get out to Pipeline?

locals who have Pipe, Backdoor and Off The Wall pretty wired. One in particular is Pupukea resident, Lucas Godfrey. Lucas has been on an absolute tear the past few years and scoring some of the longest tube rides on almost every good swell has earned him the reputation as one of the most barreled men on the planet. No matter the size or conditions, Godfrey is always finding a great ride. So, who is this talented tube rider and where does he rank among his generation? With the massive crowds and tight pecking order, how is he able to get the most perfect waves almost every good day? We sat down with the North Shore local to hear about his humble beginnings, progression, and the evolution of his surfing.

There’s a bunch of your waves at Pipeline where you are super deep and somehow make it out. People could say that's luck, but how do you think you got to that point of riding the wave so well and getting spit out of the barrel?

Yeah Pipeline's a very tricky surf break because it’s really heavy, it’s fast, almost every wave barrels. It's definitely hard to break into that mentality of trying to surf a wave like that because it takes a lot of commitment, the right equipment. You gotta be willing to risk your safety in order to get a good wave because there's a lot of consequences out there. I think I became hypnotized from riding barrels. I remember at an early age I pulled into a couple barrels at other waves and was just like, ‘Wow, this is one of the coolest things I've ever done.’ The view was insane and the feeling was great. So then you get in that mindset where you start looking for barrels. And then you stumble across this wave Pipeline and it's just the most insane barrel that you could imagine.

I would say a very important thing of surfing waves like that is positioning and knowing how to position yourself and being in the right spot. And then once you're in that right spot, you

Photo Mike Latronic

So I just started surfing out there whenever it was good and I slowly got used to it over the years. I became more and more comfortable, had a lot of bad wipeouts, learned where to be and where not to be, and how to choose the best waves out there.Yeah, it definitely takes a lot of time.

need to know how to act upon it. You need to paddle really hard, you need to fully commit, you need to give it a couple pumps, To get a good wave you wanna be determined and, get in, get out, get as deep as you can, but you also want to make it. I try to do my best. I feel like I'm getting better and better at it. There's nothing quite like the feeling of getting a super insane deep barrel, especially on a bigger wave. I think I'm just chasing after that feeling and trying to duplicate that feeling as many times as I can, just keep it rolling. Can you explain that feeling in the barrel? eah. There are multiple sensations in the barrel. You know you got a good barrel when it feels like there's like a suction force, like a vortex, sucking you backwards in the barrel. You have the wind blowing on your face. You're like thinking you're gonna fall at any moment. You got white water under your board. You’re caveating, sliding all over the place. All of a sudden momentum starts coming from behind and you feel the spit and all you, you just trying to hold on for dear life. It's a crazy sensation, it’s an adrenaline rush. You’re probably scared, happy, excited, angry if you end up falling. It’s a list of emotions that could go on and on–I think it's the whole spectrum. Yeah, it's just, it's insane. When was it when you felt like you were now part of this elite class of Pipeline surfers? Growing up on the North Shore, you're surfing with pretty much the greatest surfers in the world because they all come here to surf. I remember when I was young looking up to guys like Jamie O'Brien, Chris ward, Kalani, Chapman and Evan Valiere. I wasn't always getting the best waves, but I remember at a certain point it just kind of clicked. Maybe it was just because my skill level was getting better and I was putting more time out there. Then I actually started getting compliments from all the people that I'd idolize. I’d come flying out of a barrel and they'd be cheering, like “wow!” “You know, Lucas, that was insane, that was a really good wave.” And then inside you start feeling like, ‘Wow, I'm out here surfing with my favorite surfer and he just complimented me on a sick wave that I got. That must mean I'm doing the right thing or doing what I'm here to do.’ So I feel like that's kind of what clicked was just when I started getting good waves and receiving compliments and support from all the people who I looked up to. What are some of your other favorite breaks on the North Shore? Besides Pipe, where else is your second home? My second home would be Laniakea just because it's always been my dad's favorite wave and pretty much every day growing up as a kid, if I wanted to go surf I would go to Laniakea with my dad to go surf. I fully enjoy surfing there even to this day. And I'm stoked that my dad had such a love and passion for a sick surf spot. And besides there, I would say Sunset–I have a really special connection with Sunset. It’s where I broke into riding bigger waves because it holds pretty big and it's very powerful and it

Photo Brian Bielmann

"I would say a very important thing surfing waves like that is positioning and knowing how to position yourself and being in the right spot. And then once you're in that right spot, you need to know how to act upon it."

has big barrels. I think it's just a great training wave. Sunset can sometimes be someone's favorite wave not be someone's favorite wave, especially if you don't put in the time. Sunset can either be your best dream or your worst nightmare; I've had horrible experiences out there and I've also had great experiences out there.

I’ve really fallen in love with Mexico. It's a lot different from where I come from– I just love everything about it. There are big, powerful waves. There are long, perfect waves. There's great food. I just web series for Red Bull, the last series of his Who is J O B show before he started his own YouTube blog. We got to go test it out and were some of the first people to ever surf it. There were no facilities around it and it was literally like a construction zone and just the wave pool. The one thing I did missed out on, they didn't quite have that air section. I really want to go back because ever since they made that air section, I'm like, ‘Wow, maybe I can go practice my airs over there because I definitely need some practice on those. Yeah, I think wave pools are really cool and I think they're the future because I

Anyone that you want to thank, anyone that's helped you along the way to get to this point in your life?

What's your go-to place when you travel outside of Hawaii?

focus on doing what I do best and try to get good barrels at Pipe every year because that's my true passion.

I actually went to the Waco Surf Park right when it first got built. I went with Jamie O'Brien and we were filming a feel like surfing was really only for people who lived close to actual good waves. To be a surfer, you gotta live relatively close to the ocean or close to a surf spot. So that wave pool is gonna kind of bring in a new era of surfing where you could literally live in a landlocked place and grow up surfing a perfect wave pool. I think that's gonna open a whole new world of possibilities and it's kind of breaking down some barriers that stopped a lot of people who probably dreamed of surfing and never got to do it. Now they can go to a wave pool, pursue their passion, and have a lot of fun. Is surfing an art? 100% surfing is an art form because you have a lot of style coming into play. Everyone has a different style and everyone has a different approach. If you see a guy surfing a wave beautifully, you're like, ‘Wow, that was like a masterpiece.’ Some people just wanna stop and just watch someone surf because it's just beautiful; it’s impressive. I'd say surfers are definitely artists: they’re very creative and the way they place their maneuvers and the way they kind of flow with the wave. What are your future goals? Do you have any big aspirations for the coming future? I feel like I'm on a really good track right now. I just wanna be able to keep pursuing what I love to do. It'd be sick to get into more contests, especially at Pipeline and do well in them. That's always been a dream of mine. I just want to get bigger and better waves and just

A big thanks to my father. If it wasn't for him, I probably wouldn't be in this situation, to grow up and live in this perfect location. Huge thanks to the rest of my family, my mom, my sister, always pushing me. I'd also like to thank my girlfriend too. She always supports me and is always there for me and lets me go on surf trips and lets me go surfing every day. All my friends, especially Jamie O’Brien, I feel like a lot of my success is from him helping me out. Helping me figure out how to surf Pipe, taking me on trips, and letting me hang out with him. I'm extremely grateful for him and for believing in me and supporting me along the way. I feel like it helps to have a sense of direction. generally enjoy it and I have a lot of good friends there, so I've just grown to like it there. Recently, it was my second time to Tahiti and I love it there. I love the people. I think the people are super welcoming, super nice. They remind me a lot of the Hawaiian people. I feel at home there and I have a lot of good friends there too. Like Teahupoo is insane; it's just a crazy wave. It's good when it's two feet and it's good when it's 20 feet; all faces of it are beautiful. I've had a lot of fun on smaller and medium sized days. I feel like I need to go back for some bigger swells and try to push the limits for myself. People have been talking about wave pools. Have you been in a wave pool yet? Have you experienced wave pool technology?

The Best Way to Surf More Hawai'i Mokulele Surf Team Rider Kai Martin 128 Daily Inter-Island Flights!128 Daily Inter-Island Flights!

MOKU By Aukai Ng Waikiki has had many enjoyable contests over the years, but this last one was very special, especially to South Shore locals. Renowned Waikiki surf shop, Moku Hawaii, hosted the first ever Hawaiian Longboard Challenge right at Queens break. With just 1-2 foot surf, all the surfers made the most of their 15 minute heats, making graceful nose rides and stylish turns. As usual, there were different age divisions competing throughout the weekend. However, Moku made it extra fun and enjoyable by adding in a teams division into the mix. Similar to the Backdoor Shootout, teams of 5 got the lineup to themselves in order to accumulate points for their overall scores. All the teams had two chances to compete, so not too much stress was in the minds of the competitors. Not only was this a contest where the winners get bragging rights, it was also an individual qualifier for the World Longboarding Tour. Results from this event will go into the surfer’s overall qualifying points to compete in next year's tour. To some this was just another fun day out in the water, but to others this was a time to put on the competitive hat and go to work. Overall, this event was fun for the whole community because it’s very rare for the local residents to get waves at Queens to themselves and with their friends. Moku Hawaii owner, Brian Daniels, and the whole Moku team did a fantastic job putting together a fun event. We wish Moku Hawaii more success in the future and can’t wait for more events from them in the years to come.

Hawaiian Longboard Challenge

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OPPER FILMS PRESENTS THE LARRY LINDBERG COLLECTION

• Momentum Generation (Michael Zimbalist/Jeff Zimbalist, HBO)

• Dear Laird (Apple TV+)

• Waterman (Isaac Halasima/Sidewinder Films)

NEWS & EVENTS

• Pioneers of Pipeline (Billabong)

Opper Films and The Surf Network recently acquired twentytwo very rare surfing programs from surf sports television pioneer Larry Lindberg Productions. Anyone recall when we had to watch ABC’s Wide World of Sports to catch just a glimpse of surfing, maybe, back in the 60’s or 70’s? Well, Lindberg was the first to package and produce televised surf competitions for some of the major national networks, starting with the 1965 Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Championships held at Sunset Beach, Hawai'i. Lindberg is credited with helping introduce and shape the vibe of surfing as we know it. “Larry Lindberg presented surfing like no one had ever seen before,” says Randy Rarick, former pro competitor and longtime Triple Crown of Surfing director, “Capturing the dynamics of it as a sport, not just a pastime. His network coverage made America go, wow, these surfers are sportsmen, and that really legitimized the whole thing.” Beyond a fascinating video timeline of modern competitive surfing—none of these productions have been seen since their initial airing—the Lindberg Collection, when considered in its entirety, takes on a much deeper significance. “The quality of Larry’s surfing film imagery is visually captivating”, says Ira Opper, CEO at Opper Sports, Inc. “But even more amazing to watch are the extremely rare interviews with legendary surfers like Duke Kahanamoku, Mickey Dora and Eddie Aikau. In focusing not just on the surfing but the surfers themselves, Lindberg has created an invaluable historical and cultural record that transcends more traditional surf movies. We’re truly honored to add the Lindberg Collection to our surf film library, and to provide a venue for surfers the world over a chance to view this classic footage.”

Other recent licensing projects include:

• The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez (Stacey Peralta/Patagonia)

• 100 Foot Wave (Nazare Films/HBO)

• 24/7 Kelly Slater (HBO Sports)

The Lindberg Collection will be exclusively available for streaming on TheSurfNetworkwww.thesurfnetwork.com.providesstreamingaccess to the world’s largest surf movie library, offering over 1300 titles from the sport’s top filmmakers, legends, and new talent alike. Including archival classics from the 1950’s and 60’s, top hits from the 70’s, the very best of the VHS and DVD eras, right up to the latest titles available in the surf world. TheSurfNetwork is available on Amazon Prime Video Channels, Roku, Apple TV, Amazon Fire TV, Android TV, Google TV, and mobile devices. Since 1982 Opper Sports has been capturing all aspects of the surfing world as a documentarian of the sport. The importance of film preservation has become increasingly apparent as the founding generations of surfing’s story tellers have taken their last wave. Through a combination of forty years of filming and library acquisitions the Opper Films surf archive has become the world's largest and most comprehensive historical surf film and video library and the defacto licensor of historical surf film footage. The library now spans 100 years and includes the people, the places, and the events that have shaped the surf world. www.opperfilms.com

• Make or Break (Box to Box Films/WSL/ Apple TV+)

Ira Opper is the name in surfing synonomous with archival surfing history and great story telling. Based in Solana Beach California, his company Opper films boasts the world’s largest known historical surf film library and in recent years the company’s on line project – The Surf Network has amassed the most complete collection of surfing productions in cyber space and it just got even bigger.

Stream Exclusively on SCAN ME

While surfers from around the islands gathered at Maalaea to catch the historic Code Red swell event, some of the island’s best groms got some of that swell action at Lahaina Harbor for HSA Maui’s Hurley at the Harbor contest. This two day amateur event is a contest the kids look forward to every year. And thats not just for trophies and bragging rights, it's also for a chance to surf the great waves at the harbor with only a few other surfers out.

Maui’s John Willard, AKA “Papa John,” runs the show with online event registration, live scoring, professional judging and commentating throughout the event. This amatuer event proudly features “priority run heats” for all athletes both female and male ages 12 and over. Having a priority judge alleviates wave hogging and snaking and helps the kids compete based purely on performance. Papa John also does his best to run his contests during a good swell so the young surfers can really show off their skills, but this year was unreal as massive waves rolled through Lahaina Harbor July 16, 2022, giving the kids a chance to face their own giants.

The swell peaked Saturday afternoon with some solid 6-8’ sets, flooding Front Street businesses, breaking off buoys in the harbor, and putting an early end to the contest for the day. The competition was able to safely resume on Sunday and 11 year old Bode Davis of Kihei had the highest scoring single wave of the contest with a 9.27! Davis said the current was definitely the gnarliest part of the swell that weekend.

NEWS & EVENTS

Hurley at the Harbor

Bode Davis Photo Juan Pereira

Other standouts in the competition were Chrislyn SimpsonKane, Stella Valdez, and Kahlil Pinerschooley. And winning their divisions: Baylee Brown U12 Girls, Ayla Daian 12-13 Girls, Chrislyn SimpsonKane 14-15, Stella Valdez 16 & Above, Mason Burns U12 Boys, Kahlil Pinereschooly 12-13 Boys, Zolten Poulsen 14-15 Boys, Taj Makai Newton Open Men and Zolten Poulsen Open Longboard. No doubt these kids may be the next group of surfers seen next time Maalaea comes to life! By Nicole Lennox

RENTALS • LESSONS • SALES Moku Hawaiian Classic Now four convenient locations... Waikiki, Hale’iwa, Long Beach NY, Playa Jobos, Isabela, www.mokuhawaii.surfPR

Maui’s Lily Meola knocks it out of the park on America’s Got Talent, earning the Golden Buzzer. Sister of pro surfer and aerialist Matt Meola, Lily performed an original song about her late mother entitled ‘Daydream,’ impressing the crowd and the judges. Jack Johnson performed at the Waikiki Shell on July 29th and 30th as part of his 2022 Summer Tour. Net proceeds earned were donated to the Jack Johnson Ohana Foundation and $2 from every ticket was designated to support environmental projects. Chris Bertish completed his Trans-Pacific Wing Project on July 17. He paddled 2,500 miles from Santa Cruz, California to Hawai'i on a custom-built craft with a handheld wing. The solo journey took him 48 days.

The World Surf League appointed two women to run the WSL Longboard Tour. Both former competitors on the tour, Kirra Seale will oversee the Longboard Tour as the Senior Manager and Tory Gilkerson will be the Longboard Head Judge.

Kai Lenny’s film Pe’ahi premiered at the Maui Film Festival on July 10. Produced by and starring Lenny, the film is the story of a 12-year-old homeless boy named Dustin and his dream to become a big wave surfer. In the film, Dustin meets hi s idol Kai Lenny who helps him work towards his goal of becoming the youngest person to ever catch a wave at Pe’ahi.

Kelly Slater’s Laniakea house is available for rent. The 8,000 square-foot, seven-bed, 7.5-bath is available for rent for $46,000 per month. Slater originally purchased the home in 2017 for $7.8 million.

INDUSTRY NOTES

Mind Surfing: The Conner Coffin Story premiered on August 3 at the Vans U.S. Open of Surfing in Huntington Beach. Directed by Keith Malloy, the film follows Coffin’s surfing journey from when he first began surfing in Santa Barbara at age four until the present.

Founded by Koa Smith, Alex Smith, Travis Smith, and Koa Rothman, the Sunrise Shack is excited to offer a healthy food option in the center.

Sunrise Shack opened a new location at the Ala Moana Center on July 29. The opening was celebrated with live music, a surfboard giveaway, and free bowls for the first 50 customers.

Monyca and Ola Eleogram welcomed a baby boy into the world on July 28. They are excited to share life’s adventures with their son: Wai’olu Kōkī Eleogram.

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O'NEILL Paddle out with confidence in the New Hyperfreak Hydro Comp. The No Tie Fly closure offers unmatched comfort and security in heavy surf, while Hyperfreak Pro Stretch and O’Neill Hyperdry DWR add flexibility and speed up drying time. oneill.com

THE SURFER AND THE SAGE

Stuff We

World champion surfer Shaun Tomson teamed up with best-selling poet-philosopher Noah benShea to write The Surfer and the Sage: A Guide to Survive and Ride Life’s Waves. The book alternates between Tomson’s experiental essay and benShea’s spiritual commentary to offer insight on a path to purpose, hope, and faith. Available from bookstores, online booksellers and directly from www.familius.com

The perfect balance of drive, release and flow. The Dragon Slayer balances all the elements of a high performance shortboard. Quick response off the tail and rails, allows for just the right amount of release out of top turns and cutbacks when you want it. The flow comes into play when linking turns utilizing the drivey responsiveness. The secret ingredient is the position of the light double concave starts and ends in relation to the fins and rail Readyrocker.to Slay?! Order with your normal shortboard dims or grab a stock and discover the Dragon Slayer. tcsurf.com Like

T&C SURF Dragon Slayer

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LAST LOOK

Photo - Domenic Mosqueira

The sea level change in this photo says it all, Code Red 2 pulsed with every ounce of southern pacific juice. Unidentified?? Navigates the parting of the sea, as his tow partner nervously looks on from several stories above.