Freesurf v20n1 January 2023

FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA

The Banzai Pipeline is the most journaled and photographed wave ever. Coming from deep water, powerful swells make their journey over thousands of miles of open ocean only to heave and pitch over a sudden and shallow reef. The result is usually a massive tube. Local north shore surfer Kalani Rivero is a featured personality in this issue and here he is, doing the "usual."

Photo Christa Funk

Editorial

Editor / Publisher

Mike Latronic

Photo Director

Brian Bielmann

Art Director

John Weaver

Associate Editor

Rebecca Parsons

Editorial Assistant

Kaea Latronic

Business Administration

Cora Sanchez (808) 260-9219

West Coast Distribution & Sales

Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128

Wholesale Inquiries & Hawai‘i Distribution (808) 260-9219

Staff Shooters

Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver

Contributing Writers

Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ito, Jim Kempton

Contributing Photographers

Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke

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JORDY SMITH

ALA MOANA CENTER KOKO MARINA WINDWARD MALL WAIKELE CENTER HYATT REGENCY WAIKIKI LAHAINA GATEWAY

*HUNTINGTON BEACH, CA

KEANU ASING

EDITOR'S NOTE

By Mike Latronic

Happy New Year Freesurf family!

After just a little research about the annual calendar I am both impressed and confused at the same time. Consider the Mayan, Egyptian, Roman, Chinese, Gregorian and other calendars. There’s a fair few. There are slight differences and anomalies from one to the next but one thing is for certain. The astronomers and stewards of this time/space mapping process possessed a level of patience and dedication that was insanely impressive. Pardon the pun, but the dedication shown by these early scientists truly does “stand the test of time!” Mapping points in the night sky and waiting roughly 365 days to confirm their reappearance certainly contrasts a three second google search for the same result. So let's start off the new year right and marvel, admire and celebrate the curiosity, ingenuity and intelligence of humankind.

The New Year always brings a fresh pulse of optimism and energy, and it just so happens January 1 is smack dab in the middle of our wonderful winter surf season! This is precisely the reason why we have a solid batch of fresh imagery and action for you to engage in as part of your monthly time mapping. Admittedly, sitting down and engrossing ourselves in a printed magazine is a far more time intensive undertaking

than flipping through social media on our devices. Beside the regular and dependable dose of action photography, this edition highlights a nice selection of characters. Step son of legendary photographer Bernie Baker, Northshore standout Kalani Rivero rolls with the gnarliest, most talented surfers in Hawaii and that has certainly rubbed off on him! He’s animated, photogenic and radical and yet he looks super comfortable doing it all..

Freesurf also zeros in on a talented and highly decorated young surfer, Bella Kenworthy. This wahine hits the world records book by being the only female in history to win 4 NSSA National titles in one year! Growing up in San Clemente California with a dad like ace cameraman Jason Kenworthy, there’s no shortage of great imagery!

Speaking of great imagery we check in with a group of lensmen living on perhaps the most picturesque islands in the world. Maui is on our mind and Aaron Lynton, Stu Soley and Mark Rodrigues share their glimpses of this paradise island.

Enjoy.

3 WAIKIKI LOCATIONS!

Kai Coffee Hawaii at Alohilani Resort

2490 Kalakaua Ave, Suite #131 Honolulu, Hawai'i 96815 (808) 926-1131

Hours: 6:00AM - 5:00PM HST (UTC-10), 7 days a week

Kai Coffee Hawaii Lobby Bar at Alohilani Resort

Hours: 6:00AM-11:00AM HST, 7 days a week

Kai Coffee Hawaii Hyatt Regency Waikiki

2424 Kalakaua Avenue, #130 Honolulu, Hawai'i 96815 (808) 923-1700

Hours: 6:00AM - 5:00PM HST (UTC-10), 7 days a week

kaicoffeehawaii.com

By Kaulana Apo Photo Shane Grace

I can recall that day for sure as it was the first pipe swell of the season. And I remember that wave so clearly because I hadn’t really gotten any good ones yet and the line up had so many heavy hitters that both the tension and the progression was pushed to the absolute limit. Seeing all of the boys place themselves deeper and taking off later than usual was honestly intimidating at first because people were sending it even if there wasn't any chance at making the wave. So when my wave rolled in, I remember being one of the deeper guys in the line up and making the decision to whip on it was weird because I never made the decision consciously. It was like I was on autopilot, and when I stood up I realized how far away I was from the finish line and started pumping for my life (laughs). I never made the wave but definitely had a lucky comeback up because I remember getting so rag dolled under water I hit my head and my board broke in half from hitting my neck and shoulder. So to hear that something good came out of that questionable unconscious decision, I’m glad I went.

PHOTO ERIK

GABRIELA BRYAN AND BARRON MAMIYA WIN SUNSET PRO PRESENTED BY HIC

Gabriela Bryan (HAW) and Barron Mamiya (HAW) emerged victorious at the World Surf League (WSL) Sunset Pro presented by HIC, a regional Qualifying Series (QS) 1000 event, over their respective, top-tier fields with three-to-four foot swell pulsing into Sunset Point. The 2022 Championship Tour (CT) standouts brought that confidence to the QS and showcased their dominant form throughout the event with phenomenal surfing. Valuable, runner-up points belonged to Nora Liotta (HAW) and Billy Kemper (HAW) as they look to secure their places into the 2023 Challenger Series (CS).

Bryan opened up the Final affair featuring stacked opponents including Challenger Series competitors Brianna Cope (HAW) and Nora Liotta (HAW), and event standout Eweleiula Wong (HAW). The 2022 Championship Tour (CT) rookie’s 6.00 (out of a possible 10) went without a backup until the 11-minute mark when she and Wong had a 7.25 exchange, noting Wong’s first scoring ride of substance, after Liotta’s 6.50 edged her to the lead. (Full interview in video newsfeed)

But, Bryan’s two-score combination had Liotta and her competitors in need of a brilliant answer as time expired, earning the former Pro Junior event winner’s first Sunset QS win.

“It’s so good to have a QS win under my belt,” said Bryan. “My first heat gave me so much confidence even though I haven’t surfed Vals (Reef) a lot, but you never know. The CT could be

like that one day so the more heats, the more practice, the more better I’ll be.”

In 2019, Bryan solidified herself as an emerging star after a breakthrough win at the Sunset Open Pro Junior in solid conditions. Fast-forward two years and she made her dreams of qualifying a reality, becoming the 2022 CT Rookie of the Year, and taking that confidence back to the QS here at the Sunset Pro presented by HIC – accruing the event’s highest heat total of a 16.50 (out of a possible 20) in her debut.

A nail-biting men’s Final provided a closing spectacle to the event with brilliant exchanges from eventual winner Mamiya, Billy Kemper (HAW), Shion Crawford (HAW), and Kai Paula (HAW). Mamiya’s opening, excellent 8.00 went without a backup of substance until under the 10-minute to steal the lead from three-time Sunset victor Kemper with a 7.35. Paula, placed in a combination situation needing two new scores, and Crawford were left behind with mid-range scores as time was against them. (Full interview in newsfeed)

Mamiya held firm and claimed a second win in 2022 in his backyard of Sunset Beach to keep his momentum alive heading into the 2023 CT season.

“I’m super stoked to surf Sunset again in a contest and to get another win,” said Mamiya. “It’s been a super good event. The

Barron Mamiya of Hawai'i surfs in Heat 4 of Round of 32 of the Sunset Pro presented by HIC. Photo by Tony Heff/ WSL

waves were small the first couple days, but the last day was super fun so I’m stoked to get some good waves.”

Eventual winner, 22-year-old Mamiya, entered this event as the man to beat, winning the CT Hurley Pro Sunset earlier this year, and didn’t lose that title on the way to a secondconsecutive Sunset Beach Final. Surfing in his backyard, Mamiya was right at home and earned wins in both his Round of 32 and Quarterfinal heats before advancing behind Crawford into the Final and taking a massive win ahead of the 2023 CT season.

A valuable runner-up for Liotta pushes her up the rankings after battling her way to the Final. Liotta continues to show she’s one of Hawai'i’s rising threats and notched an impressive Semifinal victory after advancing into Finals Day. The 18-year-old chose to forego the Challenger Series event in Brazil and focus on regional success, and capitalized on the moment as she now prepares for the Challenger Series conclusion at Halei'wa.

Eventual runner-up Kemper’s track record at Sunset is one the venue’s best with three wins headed into this event and despite smaller conditions, thrived under pressure to

secure back-to-back, event Finals appearances. Kemper’s persistence on Finals Day was relentless, advancing in each of his Round of 32, Quarterfinal, and Semifinal battles to show his fighting spirit is still one of the fiercest among his competitors.

The 32-year-old is ready for the road ahead with this result pushing him to 1,000 points on the regional rankings, but Kemper now sets his eyes on bigger waves.

Valuable Finishes For Finalists, Challenger Series Qualification Race Narrows

Cope entered this event, putting the Challenger Series (CS) on hold, to garner valuable points toward her regional QS ranking and made it worth her while with a Finals appearance. Wong pulled one of the event’s most notable upsets in her Quarterfinal debut, alongside Lucy Jarrard (ASM), by eliminating Moana Jones Wong (HAW), former Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui No. 1, and continued that form through the Semifinals behind an inform Liotta.

Eventual third-place finisher Crawford debuted in phenomenal fashion and kept that momentum going all the way to the Final, unleashing a 14.65 heat total in the Semifinals after advancing out

of his Quarterfinal and Round of 32 affairs to start Finals Day. Paula made his statement in the Quarterfinals with an impressive 15.65 and backed it up in the Semifinals with another 15.95, but couldn’t find that form in the Final and managed a fourth-place finish.

The event is also supported by the Hawai'i Youth Surfing Development Organization (HYSDO), a local nonprofit working to support Hawai'i’s next generation through career and competitive development, in and out of the water.

For more information, please visit www.WorldSurfLeague.com.

Sunset Pro pres. by HIC Women’s Final Results:

1 – Gabriela Bryan (HAW) 13.25 1,000 points

2 – Nora Liotta (HAW) 11.00 800 points

3 – Eweleiula Wong (HAW) 10.50 650 points

4 – Brianna Cope (HAW) 5.25 600 points

Sunset Pro pres. by HIC Men’s Final Results:

1 – Barron Mamiya (HAW) 15.35 1,000 points

2 – Billy Kemper (HAW) 12.60 800 points

3 – Shion Crawford (HAW) 11.40 650 points

4 – Kai Paula (HAW) 10.05 600 points

Joshua Moniz surfs in Heat 3 of Round of 32 of the Sunset Pro presented by HIC. Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

Men's Finalists (L to R) Barron Mamiya (HAW), Billy Kemper (HAW), Shion Crawford (HAW), Kai Paula (HAW). Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

Women's Finalists (L to R) Gabriela Bryan (HAW), Nora Liotta (HAW), Eweleiula Wong (HAW), Brianna Cope (HAW) . (Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

SOPHIE MCCULLOCH AND JOHN JOHN FLORENCE WIN HALEIWA CHALLENGER

Sophie McCulloch (AUS) and John John Florence (HAW) claimed respective wins at the Haleiwa Challenger at home in the Hawaiian Islands, the final stop of the World Surf League (WSL) 2022 Challenger Series. Halei'wa delivered once again with six-to-eight foot, wave faces pulsing through the iconic lineup. Dreams were made and shattered today as this competition marked the conclusion of the 2022 Challenger Series to determine the final Championship Tour (CT) qualifiers.

Sophie McCulloch Defies the Odds, Wins Event To Claim 2023 CT Spot

An all-important conclusion to the women’s event kicked off with qualification dark horse McCulloch earning a 6.83 (out of possible 10) and taking control over reigning event victor Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW), event standout Eweleiula Wong (HAW), and CT qualification threat Teresa Bonvalot (PRT). With everything on the line, and needing a win to secure CT qualification, McCulloch garnered an excellent 8.17 with Sakura Johnson right behind her.

With time winding down, Bonvalot needed a mid-range score to secure a runner-up and qualification but couldn’t find the requirement as Sakura Johnson’s jaw-dropping 9.23 fell short of a perfect 10 to win the event.

“It means so much to me, and I actually had a lot of self-doubt heading into this event,” said McCulloch. “Those girls have been ripping. Bettylou (Sakura Johnson) is so good out here, so that was kind of a blessing in disguise. Before the Final, someone told me it’s not over, so I didn’t know exactly what needed to happen and just knew I needed to give it my all. To be honest it added some nerves, but I’m really proud of my ability to regroup and just have the same intention.”

McCulloch’s winning streak began with a Quarterfinal win against Wong, an in-form Sarah Baum (RSA), and Japan’s Amuro Tsuzuki. She won again in the Semifinals against Wong, former WSL World Junior Champion, Kirra Pinkerton (USA), and already-confirmed CT qualifier Molly Picklum (AUS).

John John Florence & Sophie McCulloch, winners of the Halei'wa Challenger. Photo by Brent Bielmann/WSL

Two-time WSL Champion John John Florence of Hawai'i surfs in the Final at the Halei'wa Challenger. Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

Florence took control of the men’s Final right away with a nearperfect 9.00 (out of a possible 10), his third of the event, against a heavy-hitting clash featuring event standouts Kanoa Igarashi (JPN), Ryan Callinan (AUS), and Michael Rodrigues (BRA). But, a minimal backup left Florence vulnerable, and Igarashi struck back alongside Callinan in a brilliant exchange, with Igarashi posting an excellent 8.40 to take over the lead heading into the final ten minutes.

However, Florence was not to be outdone at home on the North Shore and turned in a critical hack-to-air reverse combination for a 7.77, and the lead he would hold until time expired.

“I came into this week feeling myself out and getting back into competing again, I’m at a loss for words,” said Florence. “I’m super stoked to win at home and win it for Hawai'i, especially in waves like this. It’s incredible out there.”

Florence’s run to the Final was highlighted by another, nearperfect and event-best 9.83, in his Semifinal clash over eventual third-place finisher Michael Rodrigues (BRA), Leonardo Fioravanti (ITA), and Kalani Ball (AUS).

Runner-up Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) charged through Finals Day with a Quarterfinal and Semifinal victory in stunning form. Her goal of rejoining the Dream Tour was accomplished after making it to the Round of 32, paired with Alyssa Spencer (USA) facing elimination in women’s Quarterfinal Heat 1. Sakura Johnson, Halei'wa’s own 17-year-old phenom, stunned the world once again throughout the 2022 Challenger Series with a Vans US Open of Surfing victory, and equal third-place finishes at the Boost Mobile Gold Coast Pro and Corona Saquarema Pro.

“I’m super excited. This whole year has been learning and hard work,” said Sakura Johnson. “So many people to thank, and I’m just so thankful for all these opportunities. Thank you to everyone here at home, this is my favorite place in the world, and I couldn’t have done it without you.”

Men’s runner-up, Igarashi’s form was emphatic, opening with an excellent 16.17 (out of a possible 20) heat total in the Quarterfinals over all-star competitors Kauli Vast (FRA), Frederico Morais (PRT), and Morgan Cibilic (AUS). He again overcame Vaast, along with newly confirmed 2023 CT competitor Maxime Huscenot (FRA) in the Semifinals. But now, the real work begins as the 2022 World-Title contender prepares for another year among the world’s best and World Title run.

“I love these waves, and it’s great to start the Hawai'i season with a Final and to share a Final with John (Florence),” said Igarashi. “It’s a whole different playing field in Hawai'i. Even though Halei'wa, Pipe, and Sunset are all so different, you get the rhythm. I’m looking forward to the rest of the winter.”

Remaining CT Hopefuls Lock In Dream Tour Qualification, 2023 Classes Determined

Liam O’Brien (AUS) will have a shot at redemption on the CT this upcoming season as he qualified for the 2022 CT but was not able to compete due to an injury. Also returning to join the world’s best is Michael Rodrigues (BRA), who fell off the CT in 2019.

One of 2022’s most exciting additions to the CT, Joao Chianca (BRA), fell just short of the Mid-season Cut, but now returns to join the CT in 2023. After the opening Quarterfinal heat in Halei'wa unfolded, his return was guaranteed.

Florence Goes Back-to-Back at Halei'wa In Phenomenal Fashion

Sophie McCulloch of Australia surfs in the Final at the Halei'wa Challenger. (Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

Leonardo Fioravanti of Italy surfs in Heat 1 of the Quarterfinals. Photo by Brent Bielmann/WSL

‘OLINA

SWIMWEAR

OAHU, HAWAII

Ezekiel Lau (HAW) was eliminated in the Round of 32 and had to watch qualification scenarios unfold in anticipation. Fortunately, losses from his fellow competitors solidified his fate and locked him in as the final competitor to join the men’s 2023 CT.

Halei'wa Challenger Women’s Final Results:

1 – Sophie McCulloch (AUS) 15.00

2 – Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) 14.23

3 – Teresa Bonvalot (PRT) 7.70

4 – Eweleiula Wong (HAW) 6.56

Halei'wa Challenger Men’s Final Results:

1 – John John Florence (HAW) 16.77

2 – Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) 14.87

3 – Michael Rodrigues (BRA) 11.76

4 – Ryan Callinan (AUS) 11.20

For highlights, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

Each suit is designed by a local student athlete, or model aspiring to enter the world of business. 5% of the proceeds are donated to a charity of their choice: including Access Surf, Coral Gardeners, and World Wildlife Foundation. Learn more on our Instagram!

10% Off Code: FREESURF

Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

Kauli Vaast

Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

Justin Becret

Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

Ezekiel Lau Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

Kalani Rivero

By Alexandra Kahn

the crowd residing on the North Shore of O‘ahu, but to outsiders he has never been in the limelight as some of his closest friends are. Perhaps it is because he started surfing at an age when many of his neighbors and friends were already competing. Perhaps it’s the fact that his surfing is propelled by his quest for those few seconds of perfect bliss rather than fame. Or maybe it is because he chooses to surf events that fit his personality and surf style, rather than simply because it is a big event. Whatever the reason, Rivero’s free spirit and love for the ocean has created the happy person he is today.

Kalani Rivero is not a new name or face to

Photo Christa Funk

Living in paradise, it is easy to take the beauty of Hawai'i for granted because we witness it every day. Growing up and spending most of your time here, it’s even easier to forget just how rare and magical these islands truly are. Gaining perspective can happen by traveling, reading or watching documentary films, or simply through humbling experiences. Kalani, like many of us, once took his beautiful life on Sunset Beach for granted, but in recent years, has made a conscious effort to take note of his place within the world, what he is doing with his time, and the people who fill his days. Taking time for reflection helps him to appreciate and feel gratitude for every moment he has.

When speaking with Rivero, his age seems to contradict his heightened level of self-awareness and emotional intelligence. Much of this can be attributed to having a lot of alone time as an only child to parents who encouraged him to be himself, while also teaching him the value of hard work. As a kid on the North Shore, Kalani was consistently surrounded by older kids and adult friends who felt like family, but also shared their wisdom

When it’s flat, I go fishing and get everyone dinner

Photo Christa Funk

and served as role models. “The North Shore raises you. If you are open-minded and positive, you can learn a lot from this place. A lot of special stuff has happened here. If you’re like a sponge, you can absorb it and put it into your game.” He was simultaneously surrounded by friends his age like Kalani David and Moana Jones, who fit the mold of the stereotypical North Shore prodigies, surfed at the top of their game, and strived for perfection in their youth. These friends also served as role models, because they inspired Rivero to always pursue what he loved.

At the elite level, when you are pushing to your maximum limit, failure and difficulty are more typical feelings than success and satisfaction. We fall, we hurt, we suffer, and we struggle over and over again, but when we feel passionate about something and we are striving to be the best we can be at that something, our effort is relentless. For Rivero, “Surfing is one of those sports where I rarely get that super satisfying feeling because the ocean

is always changing. It’s almost one of those things where nothing matters. Even the consequences. You want to do it so badly. You want to be in that higher level of consciousness and that's why I love it so much.

If you chase something it might as well be that feeling of when you do something perfectly. You have so many moments that aren’t perfect so when you do something that emulates that, it makes you addicted.”

And it’s that acceptance of imperfection and the pursuance of perfection that makes Rivero such a great surfer. “I feel like a grow as a person,” he tells Freesurf. “I don’t feel like I grow as much in any other avenue as I do in the ocean.”

Photo Ryan "Chachi" Craig

But what happens when the currents shift and the world-famous North Shore waves give way to a still blue sea closely resembling a lake more so than a surf break during the summer months? spearfishing! To Rivero, “Diving and surfing go hand in hand. Like yin and yang. When it’s flat I dive, big I surf. They both balance each other. Even with the breath hold, having that mentality when I go surf, it teaches me to have more confidence, and prepare more, be more alert.” Rivero, now twenty-two, has been fishing since the age of eight. Like surfing, when Rivero is diving for a prize fish, he is pushing himself to his limit, approaching this act as he would a strategic game of chess. The mental and physical effort is relentless, often with little reward. Unlike surfing, which he does for himself, he fishes to share the experience and catch only what is needed to provide a good meal for his friends and family. While the final result of fishing is a group experience, the act itself is even more personal and often more scary than surfing for him. When you’re beneath the surface, “you’re holding your breath and going to the bottom with weights. If you don’t know your limits then you can drown. If someone isn’t watching you or your safety isn’t up to tee, you can drown. We’ve had many friends drown.” But just like with big waves and dangerous surf breaks, “you know the consequences, [but] you love it so much you do it.” Aside from the personal danger, there is a mental battle rarely faced by individuals these days— staring at an animal and taking its life. “You’re killing an animal,” Rivero describes, “so when you do that, you have to think about all the things that go into that. The honoring of the fish. The honoring of the place where you are. Trying to be mindful and respectful of the environment around you.”

Rivero is lucky to have passions that occupy his time regardless of the swell. “I’ve never questioned surfing or spearfishing in my life,” he tells Freesurf. “I’ve always been like, this I who I am. If you really love something, you'll do anything for it. You’ll find a way.” Now that winter is upon us, you’ll catch Kalani starting his day with a coffee from the Sunrise Shack, followed by surfing his Mike Mattison boards and filming with his friends at breaks like Pipeline, Backdoors, Sunset, or Rocky Point.

To leave us with a final tidbit of wisdom“Everyone has their own path. They choose what they do. If you’re one of those people that are humble, respectful, and open-minded, you can be fine anywhere. If I’m 100% myself and 100% the best I can be, on land and water, it doesn’t matter where I am, I feel like the main goal in life is to be that person.”

** Rest in peace to Kalani David. A friend, a brother, and of the best to ever touch a surf or skateboard. You will be truly missed in my life and the lives of others. I’m honored to have witnessed such pure raw talent. There will never be another like him! - Kalani Rivero

Photos Brian Bielmann

Eli Hanneman rose to popularity in his early teens with an amazing air game and freakish abilities in small waves. Over the past few years the young man from Maui has shown real mettle at solid Pipe, Backdoor and Sunset. Here at Haleiwa, Eli's evolution is on display as he draws a nice line with a beautiful carve on a good sized wall. Photo Brian Bielmann

Aussie Mikey Wright picks off a large and unruly set wave at backlit Pipe. It's a solid bottom turn for a classic moment.

Photo Brian Bielmann

Certainly the best surfer at Pipeline to ever come out of New York, Balaram Stack pushes it to the limits every time Pipe is on and is one of the top performers on any given day. Go ahead, bite the Big Apple.

Photo Shane Grace

Every father should remember that one day his son will follow his example and not just his advice. Not only is Seth Moniz reviving his dad's surfboard color scheme, more importantly he's emulating his Tony's power turns and then some!

Photo Aukai Ng

Humans have always had a fixation for flying. Some say it's easy to get airborne and others would rightly assert, it's all about the landing. Any questions on either? Ask Noah Beschen

Photo Brian Bielmann

Be it proximity, talent, DNA or sheer sack, Makai McNamara takes an impossible drop only to secure himself successfully in a sweet blue room.

Photo Mike Latronic

Taro Watanabe is one of the more stylish surfers of the younger generation of top performers. While coaching from Brad Gerlach recently helped Taro into a runner up finish at the O'neill Cold Water Classic, it's the legendary style that mimics this "Gerr-like" cutty.

Photo Mike Latronic

MAUI ON MY MIND

By Rebecca Parsons

Hawai'i’s second largest island, Maui is famous for its stunning beaches, the sacred ʻĪao valley, the famous Road to Hana, and of course, Peʻahi aka Jaws. If you have yet to visit the “Valley Isle” much of your impression of the island is likely thanks to the images captured by local photographers. We caught up three of Maui’s most talented surf photographers/ videographers and got the backstory on what goes into freezing a moment in time.

AARON LYNTON

Capturing Big Moments At Pe'ahi

Aaron Lynton has been a fan of photography since childhood. Inspired by his dad and brother to first pick up a camera, Lynton’s subject matter of choice as a kid was skateboarding. When most teenagers were out partying, Lynton spend his high school Saturday nights editing skate videos. It was then that he realized that photography and videography were more than just hobbies for him.

Although skateboarding was his introduction to action sports, Lynton felt called to the ocean and eventually took up surfing. He also became a PADI Dive Master and a F.I.I. Level 1 Freediver. The certifications increased his ocean and safety knowledge, allowing him to shoot underwater more effectively and efficiently.

Fast-forward to the present and Lynton has dedicated his career to ocean and action sports photography and videography. He has devoted a lot of time to one wave in particular: Pe’ahi aka Jaws.

“I knew from the very first time I went to Pe’ahi that it was a very special place,” says Lynton. “It felt like I had no choice in the matter—I was meant to chase and capture these moments!”

For Lynton, there is something special about watching a good day at Jaws. The cliff is packed with spectators and it is exciting to be a part of. From watching the swell forecast for the weeks leading up, to the 4 x 4 only road, and strong wind and rain, Lynton says there are lot of hazards and risks that can make for tough shooting conditions.

“When the waves are big and consistent, it’s like gladiators fighting in the colosseum,” says Lynton. “I feel so lucky to be able to not only watch but capture these men and women that continue to push the limits. I do my best behind the camera, but the surfers and the safety crew are the ones really pushing the boundaries and putting their lives on the line.”

Although he’s captured numerous images and videos at Jaws over the years, there are a few that stick out to Lynton. In 2018, he captured Nathan Florence being chased by a Pe’ahi avalanche. The wave got Florence nominated for the biggest paddle and the photo became the cover of Freesurf Magazine. Other standouts include Aaron Gold’s Guinness Book of World Records 63-foot biggest paddle, Francisco Porcella doing his version of the running man which won second place in the 2020 International Photography Awards extreme sports category, and various images of Kai Lenny pushing the limits.

To capture his images, Lynton uses a Canon 1DX mark II, both on land and in the water (with a CMT water housing). This winter, he upgraded to a RED V-raptor (and a Salty Surf housing), so he’s excited to shoot some big swell.

“My main goal is to have the viewer feel some kind of emotion,” says Lynton. “Whether it’s reliving an incredible ride out at Jaws, staring eye to eye with a 40-ton humpback whale, or being visually inspired by other stunning moments from Mother Nature.”

Looking forward, Lynton plans to continue shooting big waves. He has a few big ocean related film projects on the horizon that he’s excited about. And with swell on its way, he’s sure to have a busy winter.

MARCUS RODRIGUES

Shorebreak Specialist

Marcus Rodrigues has always been a fan of capturing moments in time. As a child, he would use a disposable camera to shoot anything he thought seemed exciting or memorable. He liked the idea of being able to relive moments in time and had fun messing around with a camera.

In addition to photography, Rodrigues spent the majority of his childhood in the ocean, bodyboarding. Fast forward to the present and Rodrigues has been bodyboarding for 25 years, 15 of them professionally.

“I definitely wouldn't be the type of camera man I am without the influence of bodyboarding,” says Rodrigues. “It taught me everything that I'm doing now and I still continue to have fun every time I'm out in the water or shooting behind the lens.”

These days, when Rodrigues isn’t riding waves, he’s behind the lens. His focus is water photography, wave riding, and shorebreak barrels. Although he’s shot thousands of photos over the years, some of his favorites are his shorebreak water shots as it’s challenging to stay in the right place at the right time as the wave crashes along the shoreline.

“Being inside of a giant barrel when everything goes silent is so captivating to me,” says Rodrigues. “It really gets my heart pumping trying to be in the spot amongst the power of the ocean.”

In addition to shorebreak, Rodrigues is a fan of big wave photography. Growing up in Hawai'i, he had a chance to witness big waves and the dedication it takes to ride them. In order to capture big swells, Rodrigues must arise early, make sure he’s in the right spot with a certain swell direction, know the wind direction and tides, and have an optimistic outlook on all the different types of weather conditions that could come with every unique big swell. Some days he gets skunked, but other days he strikes gold.

“The main reason why I enjoy capturing big waves is that each big swell only happens once and it is a once in a lifetime chance for all the conditions to come together to get the perfect day,” says Rodrigues. “The thought of capturing a surfer on the wave of their life is very motivating to me.”

To capture his shots, Rodrigues uses Canon products and SPL water housings. His favorite spots to shoot are Big Beach, Ma'alaea, Honolua Bay, and Pe'ahi on Maui as well as spots in Tahiti like Ta'apuna and Teahupo'o. He’s happy to capture anyone riding waves when the swell hits, but one of his longtime goals is to capture local Maui wave riders. He’s excited when he can capture someone’s ‘wave of the day’ for them to have as a lifelong memory of the moment.

“I hope to continue pursuing wave riding imagery while having as much fun as possible,” says Rodrigues of his future plans. “The biggest goal is to keep the stoke alive while being grateful for everything in life with a healthy outlook on what's to come next as time goes by.”

STU SOLEY

Painting Pictures with His Camera

For Stu Soley, living in Hawai'i has always been the dream. His cousins were born and raised in the Aloha State, and he first had the chance to visit when he was 11-years old. He quickly fell in love and made it his mission to move to Hawai'i and become a part of its community. In 2008, he made the dream moved and relocated to Maui from Virginia.

Just before moving to Maui, Soley enrolled in a film camera class and discovered his passion for photography. He ditched his business major and decided to focus on photography, working in the dark room until the late hours of the night. In 2009, he graduated from Longwood University with a degree in fine arts with a concentration in photography. The degree laid the foundation for a career centered around photography, art, travel, and surfing.

Once in Maui, Soley drew inspiration from the land for his photos. He shot photos of rainbows, waves, waterfalls, palm trees, wildlife, surfing, and other Hawaiian landscapes. He paid special attention to lighting, shooting when the light perfectly framed his subjects to create eye capturing images.

“My best work is when I ‘paint with my camera,’” says Soley. “It’s all about the motion and lighting combination. I love the abstract and surrealism with Salvador Dali being an inspiration, especially when creating long exposures.”

Although Soley’s career isn’t centered around surf photography, it’s something he loves to shoot, especially when there’s a big swell. Although Soley has shot numerous waves over the years, one of his favorite moments he’s captured to date was the January 16, 2021 swell at Pe’ahi.

“Sitting Pe’ahi hillside watching the largest swell to hit Jaws in years with some of the greatest videographers and company will forever be ingrained into my mind,” says Soley. “The images and video footage captured that day was all time—best in the sport, all in the lineup catching the largest Pe’ahi waves. I can still see it clear as day.”

To prepare for a shoot, Soley keeps a close eye on weather patterns and swell predictions and forecasts. As Mother Nature can be unpredictable, Soley acknowledges that only so much preparation can be done and oftentimes he must go with the flow. To capture his images, Soley uses Canon products and a CMT housing for water shots.

Looking forward, Soley wants to continue travelling and building his portfolio. Photographing Nazare on a big swell has always been a dream of his and he hopes the timing lines up one day. “I just want to continue sharing my passion with the world,” says Soley. “I feel very blessed with the support I have already been given from my community.”

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BELLA KENWORTHY

7X NSSA CHAMP

By Rebecca Parsons Photos Jason Kenworthy

With Bella Kenworthy’s background, it’s no surprise that she became a surfer. Born and raised in San Clemente, California, Bella is the daughter of legendary surf photographer Jason Kenworthy and many of her earliest memories are of surfing. Because of her dad’s job, she was regularly surrounded by professional surfers and world champions.

to do and learning to surf from people like that was amazing for my surfing.”

Bella has memories of Carissa Moore taking her out as a kid and showing her the ropes. The young surfer feels grateful to have learned from one of the world’s best and has always looked up to Carissa because not as an amazing surfer, but she’s an incredible human.

“There’s one thing I always told my kids about their surfing success when they have it,” says Bella’s dad, Jason. “If you’re an A-hole and you surf good, you’re still an A-hole. But if you’re cool, whether you surf good or bad, you’re still cool. Being a quality human is so much more important because at some point your surfing skill fades.”

Luckily, Bella is both a talented surfer and a quality human thanks to the positive role models she grew up with.

When she was seven, Bella did her first competition and she loved it. Ever since, she wanted to pursue a career as a professional surfer. Around the same time, Bella picked up skateboarding and discovered she had a knack for that as well.

Fast forward to the present and the sixteen-year-old has a stacked athletic resume. In skateboarding, she’s won Exposure twice and has finished in the top twelve at the Vans Park Series World Championships. For surfing, she already has seven NSSA titles under her belt, four of which she won in one year—she’s the only person, male or female, to win four titles in one NSSA National Event.

“I stopped competing in skateboarding because it was a lot of competing in both and I was having less fun with skating,” says Bella. “But I definitely feel like growing up skating 100% helped my surfing—it led me to trying airs in the ocean.”

Although Bella no longer competes in skateboarding, she still does it for fun, but her focus is surfing. This past year, she competed in the WSL Qualifying Series and received the wildcard at the Vans US Open of Surfing where she finished ninth. This upcoming season, she hopes to qualify for the Challenger Series and eventually qualify for the Championship Tour.

Bella is a serious competitor and works hard to make her dreams come true. When she’s home, she surfs every morning at Lower Trestles with her siblings, does some schoolwork, and then either surfs again or crosstrains with her dad’s Deep End Fitness

program. Bella’s mom homeschools her and her brothers and sisters and she’s grateful for the flexibility it allows.

“Homeschool has been really nice because I’m gone so much, so being able to have such a flexible schedule and do school whenever I can is the best,” says Bella. “I feel very fortunate to get to travel with my friends and get to experience this.”

Bella’s family is a tight knit one and she spends most of her time surfing, schooling, and traveling with them. Her dad is her coach and although Bella admits it’s sometimes difficult separating coach and dad, she loves getting to travel the world with him.

“She practices hard, she pays attention, and she follows the system and it’s led to success so in that area I’m pretty stoked,” says Jason. “It’s a different dynamic being a dad and a coach because teenagers tend to not want to listen to their parents, but she’s done a pretty good job of separating that.”

Right now, Bella’s focus is improving. Having seven NSSA titles under her belt has shown her that she has what it takes to compete against the world’s best and win. She knows she will have to continue to put in a lot of work to get to where she wants to be and someday qualify for the tour, but she’s not in a rush.

“I’m just trying to work on my surfing every day and continue progressing,” says Bella. “I’m not trying to qualify too early. My main focus is just getting better and hopefully that leads to qualifying.”

INTERVIEW

NALU DEODATO

By Aukai Ng

The North Shore of O‘ahu has bred a great pool of talented local surfers. Young surfers who are lucky enough to grow up in the epicenter of surfing have the advantage of progressing their power surfing, barrel riding and air game. One of the newest young talents coming out of the North Shore is 16 year old Nalu Deodato. Nalu has always had the mindset to step up his performance and become the best surfer he knows he can be. Just like his long hair, Nalu has style and flow. His love for the ocean is what keeps him going, not to only get better for competitions, but to have fun and enjoy what the sea has to offer. In Hawaiian, the word “Nalu,” translates to wave, so it is very fitting for this young man who spends most of his days chasing and riding waves. While sitting down with Nalu, we got to learn more about his introduction to surfing the North Shore, his competitive career, and all his travels.

Photo Mike Latronic

When and where did you first learn how to surf?

I first learned how to surf at Ali‘i beach park, on the inside of Halei'wa. My dad (Rama) surfed from a young age, so he taught me. Honestly didn't really like it at first. I was a little bit scared, but as I started surfing more and doing it with all of my friends, it just became something that I loved.

What was it like growing up and learning how to surf on the North Shore?

I definitely think it was a good thing growing up and learning how to surf on the North Shore. Other places, like the South Shore and places like that don't have as much power. So I think learning how to surf over here has definitely made me become a better person for surfing today. When I was super young, aside from Halei'wa, I would always surf Chun’s Reef and that was probably the spot that I started really learning how to do turns and maneuvers.

So at what point did you start surfing waves of a little more consequence?

When I was maybe around 11 years old, I started Surfing Vland a lot. It’s a bit of a heavy wave but it's also a wave that a lot of kids go to learn how to first get barrelled and that was the spot where I really started putting in a lot of time in my surfing and I started getting some good waves. Then I started surfing Rockies more. I was kind of always

scared of that because of the reef, but once I started surfing it, it became like one of my favorite spots.

How was it like surfing waves like Sunset and Pipeline? Sunset was definitely the scariest wave with all the water moving everywhere and super long hold downs. The first time I went out there I was pretty scared, sitting on the inside bowl just catching the corners, but as I started going out there more and more it became another favorite wave. It's still super hard to surf, but as I get bigger and grow, it’s become easier to ride. That inside bowl always has a couple nuts barrels on it and I got a couple of the sickest barrels in my life, just completely spit out.

And at 13 or 14 is when I went out to Pipeline on real 6-8’ days. From there I just kept putting in my time. Last winter was the first winter that I really felt comfortable going on some of the bigger waves. It's definitely one of the scariest feelings, but getting barrelled out there is also my favorite feeling in surfing for sure. Seeing this blue room, being inside and coming out, it's definitely the best feeling. I’m hoping to do it again this winter. Going into this winter I have much more confidence. You just gotta put your head down and go.

Let’s talk about your competitive career. How did you first start out and how is it like competing today?

My first actual surf contest that I ever did was at the Menehune contest at Halei'wa in the Kokua division. All the parents would be pushing in all the little kids. After that I started moving on to the Duke's OceanFest and Rell Sunn, a younger amateur contest that would only go up to like age 12. I started doing a lot of those with all my friends and once I started winning, I really got the drive to wanna become a competitive surfer.

Photo Aukai Ng

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I remember when I won the Rell Sunn at Mākaha, I'd say it was a glassy morning, sun was out and 1-2 feet. When we are a kind smaller kid, those waves are actually fun. We could just fit better and just do better surfing in those kinds of waves. I was competing against one of my friends, Kani Delroy and Nakoa and it was a fun time. It was a good win and I was really proud of that one for sure.

So now I'm still doing all the amateur NSSA, HSA events, and all the regional ones over here. I just started doing the regional QS events and then hopefully try to do good in those and then make it onto the Challenger series soon.

So you are mainly sponsored by Volcom. How did you get picked up by them?

Uncle Jason Shibata got me on the team. I was coming in from a surf at Pipe and as I was walking up the trail, Uncle Jason came up to me and he gave me some Volcom stickers and I was just in disbelief. Volcom was always one of my favorite companies growing up. It was definitely a surreal moment.

Where are some international breaks you’ve surfed?

I’ve been to Indonesia. I went there four times when I was younger. We recently went back this last September with my dad and some friends. It was the coolest trip of my life, traveling to all the waves I've only seen in surf movies and posters. And there was no crowd, just perfect waves left and right, super sick, all to ourselves. At the end of our trip we went to a spot called Desert Point and that was like the one wave in the whole world that I always wanted to visit. When we finally went there, we timed it well with a good swell. It’s nothing like we have here in Hawai'i. It is a shallow reef but it's a left that moves along the reef all the way through and then it closes out all the way down. You can get like five barrels on one wave and get barrelled for 20 seconds. So it's a crazy wave for sure.

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Have you been to a Wave Pool and what do you think about Wave Pool Technology?

I actually went to a wave pool for the first time this summer. When we went to visit my great- grandparents in Japan, we got a chance to surf the pool there, the Shizunami Surf stadium. The wave is super good for practicing small wave contests. Like if you had one of those at your house, you'd be really good at surfing small waves. But it's definitely a little challenging and you have to be super light on your feet, having the right boards. But they have a bunch of different variations, like the barrel and air section. The Stadium was super sick, super exciting, definitely a cool experience. I would like to go to Waco to work on my airs. Like a lot of my friends have gone there and that's a place where you can really progress on your air game. Wave Pools are definitely helping the air game progress to a different level because people are just doing the craziest stuff nowadays, like finger flips, all crazy different grabs, back flips, all of that. So yeah, it's definitely a huge help to the air progression and surfing overall.

What are other spots you haven’t gone to yet and really want to surf?

I want to go back to Indo and surf this other wave called Super Sucks. I think it's probably one of the best waves in all of Indonesia. It's pretty much like a perfect left point break that drains all the way through. It's kind of like Desert point, but a little bit less gnarly. The wave is not playful at all but it's a little bit easier than that. I would say it’s pretty much a perfect wave. I also want to go to Australia and surf Snapper Rocks and Kirra. That also looks like one of the best waves in the world too.

Do you have a magic board right now? A board that you cannot lose?

I do have one magic board. I have this one 6’0” from Wade Tokoro. He always makes me the best boards. I rode it all throughout the summer and I buckled it when I was in Indo. But then I fixed it and it's a board I wanna keep on ice. It's such a good board. I love taking it to Halei'wa or smaller Sunset, those are the two places I like riding it a lot.

Nalu Deodato Photo Mike Latronic

Photo Mike Latronic

Stuff We Like

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Protecting Hawai'i's Coral Reefs

We all use the term reef break and understand the potential effects of a bad fall every time we surf above them, but seldom do we contemplate the significance of these reefs with the appreciation they deserve. Christina Jayne of DLNR Division of Aquatic Resources (DAR) tells us, “surf breaks are alive, created and maintained by the coral.” Without the presence of these coral reefs, breaks like Jaws and Cloudbreak would not exist. Healthy reefs do a lot more than provide us with an ocean playground to snorkel and surf in, they are also vital to sustain the fish population that provides food and income. Healthy reefs are also necessary when it comes to the protection of our shorelines and decreasing the risk of floods. If the height of the reef decreases by 1 meter, Waikiki will completely flood.

How is Hawai'i's reef any different from other coral reefs? Due to the geographic location and water temperature, 25 percent of the corals and marine life that live within Hawai'i's reefs are found nowhere else in the world. Additionally, because of how the species have evolved, Hawai'i’s corals are some of the slowest growing in the world— about 1-2 cm per year compared to corals in the Caribbean at 10-15 cm per year or the Great Barrier Reef at 20-25 cm per year.

Fortunately for all those who recreate, visit and live in Hawai’i, the State has taken many efforts to protect the diversity and health of the reefs. The State’s Division of Aquatic Resources Hawai'i Coral Restoration Nursery (HCRN) is accelerating the pace at which native coral species grow substantially. One year in the lab yields the result of 20-25 years in the wild, providing hope for the continuation of Hawai’i’s reefs.

In 2018, Hawai’i became the first state to ban the sale of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate to prevent their hazardous effects on our marine life. Other State laws prohibit taking, damaging, importing, and exporting corals, and a permit is required to work with coral. Christina Jayne comments, “Awareness for the importance of coral is growing, and we are seeing the public getting involved in efforts to support taking care of our resources.” While significant strides are taking place, it is important to acknowledge the actions that contribute to coral destruction and do what we can to protect the corals, the marine ecosystems, our coastlines, and our surf breaks. Some of the greatest threats to the corals include:

1. Land-based pollution from chemicals used in fertilizers on lawns, farms, and golf courses, as well as other chemical runoff from construction sites, storm drains, cesspools, and septic tanks leach into the ocean. This chemical runoff causes excessive algae growth, which can smother the corals and harm the marine animals

2. Ocean-based pollution from cruise ships and other pleasure ships’ waste dumping puts chemicals, plastics, papers, and other unwanted items directly into the water

3. Physical damage is caused to the reef when people step on or break coral

4. Over-fishing, improperly discarding fishing gear, and the use of neglectful and harmful fishing practices reduce the biodiversity that keeps the marine ecosystem thriving

5. Climate change and coral bleaching caused by warming waters are a threat worldwide

6. Plastics and trash dumped, blown, or washed into the ocean catch on the corals and are consumed by marine and sea bird species.

Story & Photos by Alexandra Kahn

Knowing all the causes of harm, here is what YOU can do in your daily life to lessen your impact:

Cut down and try to eliminate the residential and commercial use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and cleaning products, and opt for chemical-free alternatives. Aside from ocean pollution, cruise ships are huge polluters in general, so opt out of these vacation modes unless you can find an environmentally sustainable cruise brand Do what you can to minimize touching coral. “If it’s low tide and the only way to cross is to walk, look for a sandy or rubble path, it’s much better to “stay on the trail” rather than try to blaze a new path which may damage coral and other reef organisms,” Christina Jayne tells us.

While fishing, take what is needed and hunt for invasive fish species when possible, as these species disrupt the marine ecosystem and can kill native species. When purchasing fish, know who the supplier is and what their fishing practices are. Support single-line, sustainable fisheries like Local I'a

5. Many of your common daily behaviors contribute to climate change: how your clothing is made, what type of food you are eating, what method of transportation you are using, your residential utility use, and how much waste you are personally producing. Learn about the many ways to reduce your carbon footprint and pick a few things at a time to work on until these changes feel natural.

6. Do what you can to eliminate your personal single-use plastic use. Support nonprofits and legislation working to decrease the use of petroleum-based and single-use service wear items. When you see plastic, pick it up and dispose of it properly. Attend beach clean-ups hosted by organizations like Surfrider, Mālama Maunalua, Sustainable Coastlines, 4Ocean, and 808 Cleanups.

** Additional Volunteer opportunities to consider include: DAR’s Coral Nursery, Hawai'i Institute of Marine Biology (UH), Friends of Hanauma Bay, Kuleana Coral, Mālama Pūpkea-Waimea.

Wai Kai, O‘ahu ’s New Surf-Centric Entertainment Destination, Announces February 2023 Opening

New Waterfront Recreation & Lifestyle Venue Will Feature Hawai'i’s First Deep-Water Standing Wave, Exceptional Dining and Signature Events

Wai Kai, set within Hoakalei Resort in Ewa Beach on West O‘ahu , today announces its grand opening date is set for February 10, 2023. The highly anticipated development is the first of its kind in Hawai'i, known as the birthplace of modern surfing, and is poised to become an active year-round destination that inspires locals and visitors to connect to the water, land and rich Hawaiian culture. Located 35 minutes from Honolulu overlooking the turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean, amenities include Hawai'i’s first deep-water standing wave, the 52-acre Wai Kai Lagoon for water sports, three delectable restaurants, sprawling event lawn with waterfront fire pits, waterman’s club and a unique retail shop.

The LineUp at Wai Kai will serve as a dynamic social and recreational activity hub of water sports and activities headlined by the Wai Kai Wave in a sun-kissed setting with cool ocean breezes. Powered by citywave®, the technology creates authentic surfing conditions with perfect endless and adjustable waves ranging from two- to six-feet for all skill levels. The 100-foot-wide adjustable wave allows up to three surfers at a time with an additional 30 in the barefoot zone and emulates famous natural standing river waves like the O‘ahu North Shore’s famous Waimea River Sand Bar. The Wai Kai Wave was created in collaboration with O‘ahu 's-own Shane Beschen, X Games Gold Medalist and a former world No. 2 ranked surfer. Shane and other former and current professional surfers will be available for hands-on instruction and training sessions.

The Wai Kai Wave overlooks the Wai Kai Lagoon, a serene, protected area for stand-up paddling, kayaking, outrigger canoeing, peddle boats and piloted electric boat cruises. Aquabanas and sun loungers will line a sandy beach area near the water. Optional monthly memberships will be available for frequent visitors with preferred rates and access to special events and programming. Major surf and waterman competitions are being planned for the Wai Kai Wave and Wai Kai Lagoon.

Dining is set to be an integral part of the Wai Kai experience. A dual-concept restaurant presented by Michelin awarded Chef Todd Humphries of Kitchen Door Napa sits at the heart of the

expansive property. The signature restaurant, the Plaza Grill, is situated on the upper level featuring a full-service dining room with lanai seating and unobstructed lagoon views. Contemporary yet casual, it will showcase a globally diverse menu, driven by local and seasonal ingredients. The second concept, the Boardwalk Café, will offer an interactive and intuitive counterservice restaurant concept on the ground level featuring an allday menu of eclectic yet traditional favorites. Other restaurants include The LookOut Bar and Restaurant, which will fuse fresh and healthy cuisine with front-row views of the surf action, and Foam Coffee & Bar just off the boardwalk.

Hawai'i-based Events International has partnered with Wai Kai to curate a robust schedule of unique, interactive and engaging events and experiences for all ages. The company will work closely with corporate clients, destination management companies and the team at The LineUp at Wai Kai to coordinate memorable group functions and catered events ranging from intimate gatherings to full buyouts. Venues include a 61,200-square-foot Event Lawn, Fire Pit Terrace and Promenade along the adjacent Wai Kai Lagoon, a 12,600-square-foot Surfside Lawn at the Wai Kai Wave, and a variety of other function spaces.

Event bookings are currently available for groups, and general activity reservations are expected to go live in November. Kama’aina rates will be available as well. For more information visit, https://waikaiexperience.com/ or https://atthelineup.com/.

TONY ROY

Once Tony Roy, a young kid of San Diego felt the thrill of riding his first wave, like many surfers, there was no turning back. As a teen, flipping through Surfer Magazine, Tony was drawn to the intrigue of the North Shore and at 18 decided to make the move.

The North Shore was everything Tony was looking for. Great surf, of course, but also the ‘wild west’ nature of the place in the early 70’s fit Tony’s pioneering spirit. Cheap rent, no hassle from the ‘man’, and, of course, world-class waves, it was the place to be if you were seeking that lifestyle.

His surfing focus soon became to seek out some of the larger waves on offer. Pipe and the Bay were common haunts (Tony even landed a cover of Surfing magazine riding a bomb at Pipe.), but Tony wanted more. With a small group of madmen he pioneered some of the North Shores outer reefs without the yet to be discovered advent of personal watercraft. These guys were straight paddling and often relied on their own carefully placed buoys to help with lineups.

Gently, but with undeniable will, Tony sought big surf and extreme conditions with humility and a quiet determination that he employed in every other facet of his life. Tony remained ever humble and reserved even as he became a fixture in the North Shore lineups in the 70’s and ‘80's, fulfilling only an inner drive, relishing in the challenge to tackle outer reef breaks when doing so was still relatively uncharted.

As it does for everyone, age changes our lives. Marriage, kids, work, and many others, conspire against our surfing time

and slowly but surely Tony too eventually began to step away from the line up.

But, as with most life-long surfers, he stayed up on incoming swells, always checked the surf driving by Rockpiles, and even kept a few Nellis Bolts out in the shed. Just in case.

More recently, some medical issues began to take an increased toll on his physical abilities. Tony who was diagnosed with Parkinson’s over a decade ago, decided he would not let it define him, the way he would live, or the way he would pass.

Tony was always looking for those 2-4 foot days to keep the stoke alive. On November 18, and as any surfer would want, Tony’s last act on the earth was riding a wave. He passed peacefully, surfing on the North Shore.

Safe travels Tony. Your family and friends will be missing you.

-Lee, Brooke and Tahnei Roy

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Schedule

NOTES

serum testosterone concentration has been less than 5 nmol/L (nanomoles per liter) continuously for a period of the previous 12 months.”

Another fine establishment has been added to the 604 family with Restaurant 604 adding a new location near Wahiawa at the Leilehua golf course! 604 has always been a supporter when it comes to authentic surfing and community so the grand opening night was also a kick off party for 604 ambassador, Bonga Perkins and his new brand BP Surfboards!

This lucky gentleman not only had great food and entertainment, but he was the recipient of a brand new surfboard. Lucky Buggah Garrett Chestikauf . Big Mahalo to Donovan and Devina Maples, Bonga, Perkins, and the 604 family.!

On November 15, filmmaker Greg MacGillivray released his illustrated memoir, Five Hundred Summer Stories. The memoir chronicles the past five decades of MacGillivray’s life and his work producing iconic documentaries and giant-screen IMAX films.

After ten years of riding for Billabong, world number seven Griffin Colapinto signed with Billabong’s sister company Quiksilver as his new sponsor.

Thanks to a landmark decision made 19th Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), the shark fin trade will finally be regulated. This decision will help protect threatened and endangered species of sharks and rays.

Mauna Loa erupted at 11:30 P.M. on Sunday, November 27, for the first time since 1984. The volcano is the world’s largest active volcano and covers half of the island of Hawai'i.

Art Brewer passed away at age 71. Brewer is famous for his surf photography and has taken iconic surf photos of many of the world’s greatest surfers over the course of his career. A GoFundMe account was set up to help his family cover his medical expenses. RIP.

After a break from competition due to an injury, Gabriel Medina won the Saquarema Pro in Rio.

After years of back and forth and uncertainty, the International Surfing Association (ISA) published their official policy for transgender surfers on their website. In order to compete in the women’s division, a transgender women must show the ISA Medical Commission “that her

The 2022-2023 big wave season officially kicked off on November 15th. The holding period runs until March 31 and will include both the Quiksilver Jaws Big Wave Challenge presented by TUDOR and the TUDOR Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge presented by Hurley The WSL also announced their new campaign: The WSL Big Wave Record Chase. The campaign will run throughout the entire season and will be centered around verifying and awarding new world records with $500,000 in prize money on the line.

Caitlin Simmers accepted her invitation to the 2023 Championship Tour. Simmers qualified for the CT last year at age 16 but declined the invitation to focus on her family, time at home, and being a kid.

Alessa Holloway said goodbye to her long-time sponsorship with Billabong. The surfer from Mākaha first became sponsored by the brand at age eleven but has decided to step away to focus on new and different dreams.

Mokulele Surf Team Rider Kai Martin

Photo Aukai Ng

Netflix offered to buy the World Surf League but deal was ultimately turned down by WSL as the two businesses couldn’t agree on a price.

Hawai'i’s coral reefs are threatened, and coastal storms add to the damage of the reefs. To help protect the reefs, environmental nonprofit The Nature Conservancy took out an insurance policy for the coral reefs surrounding O‘ahu , Molokai, Lanai, Maui, and Hawai'i.

The Air Force Super Girl Pro was held in Jacksonville, Florida from November 11-13. It’s the second largest all-female surf event in the world and in addition to surfing, the event included 12 live concerts, panel discussions on sustainability and female leadership, and fitness classes. Caroline Marks beat out Bella Kenworthy in the final to take home the win, becoming the first woman to win Super Girl capes on both coasts.

Waikiki’s Kelis Kaleopa’a celebrated her 18th birthday on November 23rd. Kaleopa’a is currently ranked number two in the world on the WSL Longboard tour.

In early November, the Surf Park Summit was held in San Diego where the industry’s best gathered to share ideas and consider solutions to problems in the surf world. Investors, developers, executives, thought leaders, and pro surfers were in attendance and they discussed different wave technologies and ways to continue advancing the surf industry.

INDUSTRY NOTES

On November 30, Volcom hosted its first Volcom Film Feast on the beach at Pipeline. The debut film was entitled Wildcard, starring none other than Moana Jones Wong.

In early November, the Surfrider Foundation released its sixth annual State of the Beach Report—the report gave 30 U.S. states and Puerto Rico a grade based on laws and policies that protect our nations beaches from threats due to sea level rise, coastal erosion, poorly planned development. The findings of the report were that 67% of the coastal areas were performing at ‘adequate’ or ‘poor’ levels. Only 11 states earned an ‘A’ or ‘B.’

After a long break due to injury, John John Florence returned to competition at the Halei'wa Challenger and won. On the women’s side, Sophie McCulloch won, earning herself a spot on the 2023 Championship Tour.

Halei'wa’s Bettylou Sakura Johnson finished the Challenger Series in first, requalifying for the 2023 Championship Tour. On the men’s side, Leonardo Fioravanti rounded out the season in the top spot.

The lineup for the 2023 Championship Tour is officially set. On the men’s spots, the final ten spots are going to Leonardo Fioravanti, Ryan Callinan, Rio Waida, Ramzi Boukhiam, Ian Gentil, Maxime Huscenot, Joao Chianca, Liam O’Brien, Michael Rodrigues, and Ezekial Lau. For the women, the final five spots are going to Macy Callaghan, Molly Picklum, Caitlin Simmers, Bettylou Sakura Johnson, and Sophie McCulloch.

After years of inspired performances and junior alocades, Maui's Ian Gentil has breached the big time and landed a well deserved slot on the WSL's Championship Tour!

LAST LOOK

Shaydon Pacarro stands in the eye of the vortex.

Photo Shane Grace