FREE V20#2 February 2023
VANS PIPE MASTERS + BRISA HENNESSEY + LEVI YOUNG +
Balaram Stack Photo Ryan "Chachi" Craig
FULL SWING
Photo: Mike Latronic
FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA KALANI RIVERO
Early 2023
FREE PARKING
Kalani Chapman has had a long and storied relationship with the Banzai Pipeline. As a top performer out there for the better part of 20 years, Chapman has seen his fair share of massive tubes, horrendous spills, near death experiences and pure joy. In this particular green room, et’s not omit mother oceans amazing colors.
Photo Brent Bielmann
Editor / Publisher
Mike Latronic
Photo Director
Brian Bielmann
Art Director John Weaver
Associate Editor Rebecca Parsons
Editorial
Assistant
Kaea Latronic
Business Administration
Cora Sanchez (808) 260-9219
West Coast Distribution & Sales
Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128
Wholesale Inquiries & Hawai‘i Distribution (808) 260-9219
Staff Shooters
Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver
Contributing Writers
Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ito, Jim Kempton
Contributing Photographers
Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke
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Editorial
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
photo editor Brian Bielmann shooting Waimea. Photo Brent Bielmann 10 Free Parking 18 Editor's Note 22 Vans Pipe Masters 38 Double Trouble 44 Aperture 54 HIO 44 Aperture 54 Brisa Hennessey 64 Levi Young 76 Industry Notes 80 In Memory Of 82 Last Look
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FEATURES
Vans Pipe Masters 22 38 Brisa Hennessey 56 Double Trouble
By Mike Latronic
Welcome to February. Aside from being the most consistently misspelled month, it's also time for Mardi Gras, Black History month, Groundhog Day and lastly, of course Valentine’s Dayand we're definitely going to talk about “true love” a bit later. Apparently February also claims the title of “Chocolate Lovers’ Month.” Go figure— that must coincide with Valentine's Day, right?
The second month of the calendar year is also when, on February 10th, 1962, Astronaut John Glenn Jr. was the first American to orbit the earth. Let's further address that February has, from Ancient Rome to modern day been heralded as a month for lovers. Indeed, we love surfing.
While so many of us get target-locked and loaded on the word love as a relationship between humans, what about reflecting on love in the more universal sense? Consider love of humanity, family, friends, food, art, music, and other self expressions. At some point or another most humans-some more than others, experience real joy and “love” from things they do or experience. There are varying degrees of love and the most simple dictionary definition of love is, “the intense feeling of affection.”
No matter the language, religion, race, creed or color, all humans have the capacity to give and receive love in most or all its forms.
Enter: surfing. Chances are if you are reading this edition of Freesurf Magazine you are in love. We are in love. We love the ocean, the waves, the gravity, inertia and stoke of seeing likeminded humans smiling at and cheering for each other while playing in Mother Nature's saltwater playground. We often straddle love/hate situations with our own friends who want the same wave. And I for one will admit to torrid affairs with one or more surfboards…at the same time. It’s ok - I don't plan to run for any public office.
In this issue we can see clearly that the good folks at Vans love surfing too. First they selected Nathan Fletcher, one of the most prolific and creative surfers on the planet to be contest director. After nearly four decades of relatively standard judging and competition, the reimagined Vans Pipe Masters is bringing back the all-invite concept as well as having made adjustments to the format to allow for more creativity and purity of performance. It’s a big change and it's the first year so I'm sure even the doubters have ample time to grow to love it. That's really how love is isn't it? Love evolves: and so does surfing.
Per usual there’s plenty of great images, profiles, news, quips and yarns, so dig in and let your love shine.
EDITOR'S NOTE
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Mike at his home spot, Sunset. Photo Noa Napoleon
3 WAIKIKI LOCATIONS!
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With a population of roughly 19.5 million souls New York City is one of the most bustling metropolitan centers on the planet. Who knew that the same home for some of the tallest buildings in the world, the best pizza on the planet and Wall Street tycoons would also produce a Vans Pipe Master. Take a bite out of that Big %@$%& apple because it just did! So how does a kid following his older brothers into the frigid waters of NYC create a super surf stoked existence and then transition to being such an amazing tube rider and then going on to taking top honors in the most modern tube riding arena on Earth?
FSM publisher Mike Latronic caught up with Mr. Stack just days after his big win at Pipe.
Tell me about your history and relationship with Pipe. “I think we just like getting barreled right? It’s a long one now. I've been surfing out here since I was 13. It's almost 20 years and it’s a big respect thing. I don't do the tour, I don't do too many contests no more and I just love to surf Pipe. You give her respect, she gives you respect, and it comes in waves, and you never know when it's going happen good, and you never know when it's going happen bad. To get comfortable out there, or to know where you're going to sit, or to get the opportunity to even get a wave- it's all about putting time in out there. It's a really good wave. I am addicted to it. Like I still haven't gotten the wave that I dream about, you know? And
I don't know if I ever will, but I think that's the drive that keeps you coming back over and over again. It feels like it's a 50-yard dash from the beach to the wave and it breaks in pretty much one spot every time. You can have your lineups and you can kind of have your zone, but everything comes together and then it just explodes on this one really gnarly piece of reef. And it's a special piece of reef too. It produces some of the best waves in the world. It feels like you're in an arena on the beach here and I don't think that ever gets old.
And how do you feel about the event format?
It was cool. I mean it's way more relaxed than as if we were going heat by heat, two man make it and it sucks. The format itself is ideal in my eyes, in, in terms of it allows everyone to just focus on getting barreled rather than like trying to beat each other for a small score or something.
In those last waning moments of the final heat when you knew you had it clinched, what was going through your head?
So there was two moments that stood out. The first one was right after I got the second wave and I was like cool I just made two waves and I'm going to have two scores and probably be in the lead. And then I'm like, what the? How did that just happen? It was the first moment where my heart almost like sank and I was just like, oh. It might actually happen. It was just an overwhelming moment for sure.
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Itʻs 1971, Fred Hemmings plopped a table on the beach at Pipe and with a $1000 sponsorship from Continental Airlines, the 1968 world champion surfer and promoter sparked what many would say was the start to modern professional surfing. The television network, ABC, would broadcast the event on the Wide World of Sports. This was a landmark.
There were only six surfers who were invited to that first event. Jeff Hakman won that event and took home the $500 first prize. Since that day the Pipe Masters has evolved into the most prized and watched event in surfing. Beyond the hundreds of thousands of dollars up for grabs, most champions would tell you it’s not all about the money as much as it is about the prestige.
The 2022 Vans Pipe Masters pitched $420,000 of prize money and the reimagined Masters marks a new chapter for the iconic wave and contest. This year's specialty showcased 60 men and women and some of the most exciting barrel riders and aerialists from around the world.
Intro by Mike Latronic
Photos Brian Bielmann, Christa Funk and Jimmy Wilson
In their commitment to uplifting the North Shore community and driving cultural progression and inclusion. Fifty percent of Vans Pipe Masters' invitees are from Hawaiʻi, showcasing the depth of surf talent within the region. Vans also upholds and values equity, with equal prize purses awarded to both men and women's categories, as well as uplifting female surfers.
The Vans Pipe Masters inspires the future of surfing with an innovative contest and judging format that recognizes progression, disruption, and radical expression.
In the words of content director Nathan Fletcher, “What they want to do is something different and help the progression of competition surfing. I put a lot of my energy into new things and trying things and testing things and it isn't just helping me, it's helping the whole sport.
The event window featured small swell and powerful offshore winds prevailing for the first half of the contest period. Then for the second half there were bigger, classic Pipeline moments and as the swell dissipated, Backdoor gave up the predominant scoring opportunities.
Two newcomers to the Pipe podium seized the moment to capture the best wins of their careers. Balaram Stack, a New York City tube specialist took down Griffin Colapinto, Joao Chianca, and Kaulana Apo in the final to become the 2022 Vans Pipe Master.
Meanwhile, Aussie Molly Picklum nabbed the best win of her young journey, topping Carissa Moore, Caity Simmers, and Bettylou Sakura Johnson. "It means the world to be the Vans Pipe Masters champion. I’ve put in so much effort, and I do love being out of my comfort zone, and this year’s Vans Pipe Masters did that," said Picklum post-event.
Photo Christa Funk
Matt Meola is the ultimate contestant for a progressive format.
Photo Christa Funk
Clockwise top left, Molly Picklum, Sierra Kerr, anticipation.
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Ivan Florence, Nathan Fletcher, Molly Picklum
Tosh Tudor executes a well-placed bottom turn. Photo Brian Bielmann
Nathan Florence was charging the whole event. Critical tube riding is still the main focus when it's bombing. Photo Brian Bielmann
Harry Bryant, Balaram and Yago Dora, Kaulana Apo.
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KIRON
Clockwise top left, Josh and Sierra Kerr, Bethany Hamilton, Carissa Moore. Carissa’s wave elevated the entire standard for women as a whole at the location.
No one epitomizes having fun more than Mason Ho. He carries the family legacy forward and making sure there will be fun in the future of surfing. Photo Brian Bielmann.
Moana Jones, a true Pipe Master. Jones exudes beauty, style and a go for broke attitude. In heavy second reef conditions, the confidence level of the women went through the roof and we now see a totally new mindset and performance level at Pipe by the wahine in the weeks since. Photo Christa Funk
Tosh Tudor, Mason Ho, Balaram Stack.
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Carissa Moore, Bethany Hamilton, Balaram's mother Mary and Volcom crew.
Joao Chianca. Photo Christa Funk
Men’s
Results 1. Balaram Stack 2. Griffin Colapinto 3. Kaulana Apo 4. Joan Chianca Women’s Final Results 1. Molly Picklum 2. Bettylou Sakura-Johnson 3. Caity Simmers 4. Carissa Moore
Final
Balaram Stack was the man. One of the best surfers ever at Pipe and for sure the best ever from New York.
Molly Picklum ecstatic to win the women’s division in the Vans Pipe Masters
Photos Jimmy Wilson
DOUBLE TROUBLE
By Rebecca Parsons
For surfers, qualifying for the Championship Tour is paramount. It’s the most prestigious league in surfing, with rigorous qualifying standards and the top competitors in the sport. Spanning nine months, the tour tests surfers in various waves, time zones, and conditions to determine who is the best of the best.
Each year, 36 men compete on the CT in eleven events across the globe. Traditionally, the bottom 10 surfers lose their spot on the CT and are dropped to the Challenger Series while the top ten finishers on the CS are promoted to the CT. This year, however, the World Surf League decided to mix things up with the introduction of the mid-season cut.
In 2022, after the first five events the 36-men and 18-women fields were cut to 24 men and 12 women. After being cut, surfers are invited to join the CS where they have the chance to fight to re-earn their spot on tour.
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Ian Gentil Photo Erik Aeder
Zeke lau Photo Brent Bielmann
THE FOUNDING OWNER OF CHILLI SURFBOARDS, JAMIE CHEAL, DID HIS FIRST TOP TURN ON A SURFBOARD AT THE GOLD COAST'S GREENMOUNT AGED 13, AND HE'S BEEN SURFING MOST DAYS SINCE. IN HIS LATE TEENS, CHEAL MOVED TO SYDNEY AND STARTED WORKING AT A SURFBOARD FACTORY, SANDING AND SWEEPING FOR NEXT TO NOTHING. IN 1995, AGED 22, CHEAL SHAPED HIS FIRST BOARD. WHEN HE EVENTUALLY TOOK HIS CREATION TO WATER HE WAS MORE THAN A LITTLE SURPRISED; IT ACTUALLY WORKED! "IT WAS A TOTAL FLUKE," HE LAUGHS. "I SHAPED ABOUT 20 MORE AFTER THAT FIRST ONE AND THEY ALL WENT LIKE WET TOWELS." CHEAL KNEW IT WOULDN'T BE A WALK IN THE PARK, BUT WITH THAT FIRST GEM IN MIND, HE PERSEVERED WITH SHAPING AND NOT LONG AFTERWARDS, IT STARTED TO PAY OFF. TWO YEARS LATER, CHILLI SURFBOARDS WAS BORN IN A SMALL FACTORY IN BROOKVALE. IN THE YEARS THAT FOLLOWED, DEMAND FOR CHEAL'S BOARDS GREW AND EACH WEEK HE PRODUCED MORE. SOON, DEMAND WAS HIGH AND SOME OF AUSTRALIA'S BEST SURFERS WERE RIDING CHILLI SURFBOARDS TO VICTORY. IT WASN'T LONG BEFORE WORLD TOUR SURFERS STARTED ASKING CHEAL FOR BOARDS, TOO. IN 2004, THE DEARLY MISSED ANDY IRONS RODE CHILLI SURFBOARDS IN HIS SUCCESSFUL CAMPAIGN TO CLAIM A THIRD WORLD TITLE. CHEAL LOVES SEEING THE BEST SURFERS IN THE WORLD RIDE HIS BOARDS BUT WOULD TAKE JUST AS MUCH PRIDE IN SEEING ONE UNDER YOUR FEET. THAT'S WHY HE'S WORKED HARD TO CREATE A MODEL RANGE THAT HAS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE. CHECK THEM OUT ON THIS SITE AND FIND YOUR NEXT DREAM BOARD.
ZEKE LAU
As a kid, Lau loved going to the beach and playing in the ocean. Before he could walk, he rode waves perched on the front of his dad’s board and when he was four, he entered his first contest. Despite his love of surfing, Lau wasn’t a fan of the competitive atmosphere and decided to reserve surfing as something he did strictly for fun. Instead, Lau put his competitive efforts into land sports like soccer, baseball, and basketball and simply surfed on the side.
As he got older, Lau began entering surf contests again and developed a passion for competitive surfing. Although he was a talented junior surfer, Lau’s parents encouraged him to prioritize academics and he regularly missed contests due to school. When he was a junior in high school, Lau competed on the QS for the first time and did well in the contests he was able to attend with his restrictive school schedule. Lau decided it was time to give surfing his full focus and see just how far the sport could take him.
Over the following years, Lau occasionally secured big wins, but repeatedly fell short when it came to qualifying for the Championship Tour. In 2017, after years of hard work and dedication, Lau’s dreams finally came to fruition when he qualified for the Dream Tour.
After a respectable rookie season, Lau’s future on the CT looked promising. He proceeded to requalify in 2018 and 2019 but fell short after that. The pandemic postponed Lau’s attempts at requalification but in 2022, he came back with guns blazing.
Lau competed on ABC’s The Ultimate Surfer, where he was a dominant competitor throughout the entire season. In the finale, he defeated Koa Smith and was crowned “the ultimate surfer” alongside Tia Blanco. With the win, he was awarded three wildcard spots on the 2022 Championship Tour.
In the end, Lau didn’t end up using the wildcard spots as he secured himself a position on the 2022 CT via the CS. Although Lau had some solid performances, including a fifth-place finish at the
Hurley Pro Sunset Beach, he fell just short of making the mid-season cut and found himself back on the CS.
No stranger to hard work, Lau was determined to earn his position on tour once again. He surfed consistently throughout the season but put up a dominant performance at the Vans US Open of Surfing, winning the event. Heading into the Haleʻiwa Challenger, Lau’s position for the upcoming season was uncertain, but he ultimately secured the points he needed to qualify for the CT once again.
We caught up with Lau between waves and asked about his on again off again relationship with the CT, why he’s proud to represent Hawai'i through his surfing, who he’s inspired by, and his mindset going into the makeor-break event at Haleʻiwa.
Photo Brent Bielmann
go with the flow go with the flow
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IAN GENTIL
Maui breeds talented surfers. It’s a fact and Ian Gentil is the proof.
Like many Maui locals, Gentil’s earliest memories are in the water. As a kid, Gentil would spend hours in the ocean, playing in the shorebreak and messing around on his boogie board. Although he surfed on occasion, he favored boogie boarding during his younger years. By the time he was eight or nine, Gentil decided it was time to focus on his surfing and work to get better.
As a junior, Gentil’s surfing was nothing short of impressive. In his early teens, Gentil secured multiple national titles, turning a lot of heads in the process. With his success, he found a lot of expectations were placed on him and by his twenties, he was
completely burnt out. So, he decided to stop surfing. Quitting surfing ultimately ended up being the best career decision Gentil ever made.
During his surfing hiatus, Gentil had the opportunity to do all the things he’d missed out on or hadn’t been able to do due to constantly training and traveling for surfing. He spent a lot of time with his family and reassessed why he surfed and why he competed. After a three-month break, he was fired up on surfing once again.
With a newfound appreciation for the sport and a mindset centered around having fun, Gentil began competing again. He spent some time competing in the QS, then the CS, and in 2022, he qualified for the 2023 CT.
These days, Gentil views surfing as a lifestyle more so than a job. He’s found the balance between hard work and having fun and discovered a way to have a good time on the CS. He’s excited to take that same knowledge into the CT and make it a great experience. And while he’s having a good time, he also plans on winning. Because surfing is always more fun when you’re winning.
Photo Dooma
Freesurf has had a close watch on the evolution of Griffin Colapinto since his early teens when he traveled the Pacific Coast of Panama with our crew. What an evolution it's been! With tons of talent, drive and a new label on his board were excited to see what the future holds for this young man! Photo Brian Bielmann
APERTURE
The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. Following in the footsteps of his father Liam McNamara, Landon McNamara has a penchant for finding some of the biggest and gnarliest tubes at Pipe and rightly so sitting deep in this roomy green cavern.
Photo Brent Bielmann
Aussie Noa Deane showed up on the Northshore ready, willing and able to have fun and excel at his happy day job, the Vans Pipe Masters.
Photo Brian Bielmann
There’s a defining moment for backhand tube riders after picking the right line the surfer transitions from extension to locking in and crouching into a rail grab. It happens quick and Reef Heazlewood has perfect instincts on this Backdoor beauty.
Bielmann
Photo Brian
Although wielding plenty of power and verve, Barron Mamiya is one of those athletes that simply makes incredible surfing look easy and effortless.
Photo Brian Bielmann
The Surf N Sea Haleʻiwa International Open
Story and Photos by Aukai Ng
Holiday time in Hawai'i means large swells, crisp offshore winds and an uptick of excitement and activity on the Northshore of Oʻahu.Typically kicking off during Christmas vacation the perennial Surf N Sea, Haleʻiwa International Open, held at Alii Beach in Haleʻiwa, is a local favorite. Tournament divisions included everything from male and female menehune, masters, and seniors. In one of the most highly contested surf destinations on the planet the HIO in Hawai'i is a strong showcase of superb local talent.
With a good flow of west by northwest swells the event was a great way to end the 2022 amateur competitive season on the North Shore of Oʻahu. The competition had surfers from all over the Hawai'ian Islands and some from different parts of the world, from Japan all the way to Israel. The waves were absolutely perfect for many days of the week-long competition with sets ranging from head-high to double overhead. Some of the standouts included Todd Coffey (senior men’s shortboard), Erin Brooks (open women’s shortboard) and Kai Martin (junior men’s shortboard). Not only did the event have some intense battles, it was also fun for the whole family. Everyone got to hang out in the warm sun, cool down at the shoreline, and witness some extraordinary surfing. Mahalo to the event sponsors Surf N Se, Florence Marine X and Matsumoto’s Shave Ice and all the organizers for putting on such a fun weekend for the whole North Shore community.
NEWS & EVENTS
Kai Martin
Diego Ferri
Shion Crawford
BRISA HENNESSEY Is a Citizen of the World
By Rebecca Parsons
Brisa Hennessey is a self-proclaimed citizen of the world. Born in the jungles of Costa Rica, Hennessey spent her childhood in the water, falling in love with surfing and the ocean. When she was nine, Hennessey’s family relocated to Oʻahu, Hawai'i where she began surfing competitively, deepening her passion for the sport and gaining comfort in heavier waves. In 2017, Hennessey’s family relocated to Fiji to work as part-time managers for Namotu Island and she spent her downtime between competition surfing waves in the South Pacific. In 2019, one of Hennessey’s lifelong dreams came to fruition when she qualified for the Championship Tour. Fast forward three years and Hennessey rounded out the season fifth in the world. Here, Hennessey shares what her childhood was like, why she wanted to pursue a career as a professional surfer, how she balances being a competitor and a good person.
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Brisa Hennessey Photo Tony Heff
What was your childhood like?
My dad had a surf school in Costa Rica and my mom was a chef at an eco-lodge, so I was pretty much born in the water. Being in the jungle in general was a very unconventional way of growing up and living. We lived in this house that was completely open, no doors and no windows, it was pretty radical. I spent nine years of my life there living life super simply and falling in love with the ocean and my surroundings.
Has surfing always been a family affair?
Definitely. I think the moment that my mom even dreamed of having a kid they wanted to manifest us surfing together as a family. I think I was probably two when I was on my first board and then standing by around three. Both my parents taught me how to surf and it’s been a big part of our lives.
When did you know you wanted to pursue a career as a professional surfer?
As I did more junior contests and bigger national contests, I got exposed to the best surfers in the world. I grew up surfing against Caroline Marks and we really pushed each other when we were doing nationals in California. I think being exposed to that high level junior competitions was a good stepping stone into competing on the big stage. Doing more QS’s and getting more of that worldly experience was something that I wanted to
do for the rest of my life. I feel like I was called to do it in some ways, and I was grateful to qualify after a rough three years of sticking that out and finding myself.
How did growing up in multiple locations shape you into the person and surfer you are today?
I think all these different places, Hawai'i, Costa Rica, and Fiji, kind of share the same perspective and view on life. Being kind, the aloha spirit, the pura vida lifestyle, and bula: it’s just all about family, taking it easy and slow, and showing kindness and love. They’re all such beautiful parts of the world and the ocean is such a big part of their culture as well, so I’ve been so fortunate to be able to experience that. I think it’s been everything in shaping me into who I am and how I see the world.
What were some highlights from the 2022 season? Biggest challenges?
A definite highlight was winning at Sunset amongst a bunch of my friends and family at a wave I put in a lot of time at with Greg Nakamura. He’s my uncle and he’s come third at Sunset at the QS level and he’s always been such an inspiration for me at Sunset. For him to be there supporting me as well as Kahea Hart, who has really helped me out there and gained more comfortability, was such a full circle moment and it was really special.
ocean
such a big part of
Photo Mike Latronic
"They’re all such beautiful parts of the world and the
is
their culture as well, so I’ve been so fortunate to be able to experience that."
There were also a lot of low points; it was a really long year. It was very mentally and physically draining. I clearly remember in Brazil where I lost the first round. It was pretty uncertain on my placement and if I was going to qualify for the top five and I felt in a very fearful place of the unknown. But because of those moments it truly made the special moments even better.
At the beginning of the season you said your goal was to finish top five. What’s it like seeing that dream come to fruition? That’s such a trip, wow. It’s such an interesting journey surfers are on because we constantly have to embrace the unknown and embrace so much uncertainty—we really have to dig deep within ourselves and connect with ourselves and the ocean. Coming out of that one barrel in Tahiti, I still remember that moment, because it was almost like every experience that I’ve gone through was released in that moment. I felt very at peace and the love and joy for why I surf. Being able to achieve something that for so long felt so uncertain and unknown was everything.
Why do you think you had so much success this season?
Every year, I check in with myself and what my drive is. I had a clear purpose and direction this time around of doing it not only for myself but for Costa Rica, my family, and everyone in my
life that has dedicated their time to support me. I just felt like I had a clear direction and felt so grateful to be able to do what I do, and I tried to carry that into the ocean and into every heat. It sounds so cliché, but for the first time I was really finding the true love of competing again.
What do you love about competing?
It’s addicting. The flow state that you reach when you compete, which is pretty rare, is so addicting and rejuvenating—it really makes you be in the present moment unlike anything else. To tap into that as a competitor and as an athlete is like a superpower and I always go back to that feeling. Competing is so challenging but it’s where I think you learn more about yourself than anything else that I’ve done and that growth is something that I always come back to.
A big reason why I compete is to hopefully inspire that little girl on the other side of the screen or on the beach to get into the ocean and to go surfing or to do what she loves. As a woman, being a competitor and an athlete is one way to show our strength and our beauty at the same time. I want little girls to know that they can be strong and beautiful, and they can find the balance of who they are in and out of the water.
Photo Mike Latronic
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"I just felt like I had a clear direction and felt so grateful to be able to do what I do, and I tried to carry that into the ocean and into every heat."
BRISA HENNESSEY Is a Citizen of the World
Pacifc Islands
How do you balance being a competitor and being a good person/friend?
It’s one thing that I’m still learning a lot about and finding more comfortability in because it’s still something that I have to work on. I really want to be the best in the world, I think that’s everyone’s goal on tour, but I also want to be kind and I want to be known as the best person and someone that people can relate to and connect to. To find that middle ground is really challenging, but I think it all comes down to having respect.
Do you hope to compete in the 2024 Olympics?
Definitely. It’s going to be super exciting in 2024 in Tahiti. It’s at a wave that gives me all the different emotions every single time I think about it. To have that opportunity to represent Costa Rica and surf again as a whole would be incredible. Being a part of it last time has given me motivation in wanting to get a medal even more so.
Do you have a plan/strategy heading into next season?
I really want to base this year with focusing more on my mental health and navigating my stress in a healthier way. You’re constantly putting your body and your mind in stress and I really want to go into this year with a little bit more peace, take it more slowly, and find more of my why and intention in everything I do.
What would you be doing if you weren’t a surfer or retired?
I’d definitely be a cook or a chef. Owning my own restaurant or coffee shop has always been a goal of mine. Food connects us all as humans. When you’re out in the ocean and things are uncontrollable, eating is a way that you can control what you’re putting in your body—there’s something so special about creating something in the kitchen. Cooking is like therapy to me; it keeps me grounded.
Reservation Specialist Sean Walker www.worldsurfaris.com Handpicked surf
since 1997 sean@worldsurfaris.com (877) 617-1328
adventures
Indo and more!
Maldives
LEVI YOUNG
By Aukai Ng
The surfing world has had some legendary brotherly duos. Andy and Bruce Irons, CJ and Damien Hobgood, Derek and Michael Ho, The Moniz Brothers, Fletchers, Beschens and Geiselmans to name a few. Introducing another DNA duo from the island of Maui, the Young brothers. And just like these other brothers, the younger of the Young brothers is just as talented and driven as the older. Eighteen year old Levi Young has definitely put time into his surfing and the surfing world is seeing the results. With tons of energy, Levi doesn’t hesitate to jump into as many freesurf sessions and contests as he can. He has made his mark with consistently strong and sharp performances both in and out of competition. When sitting down with Levi, we’ve heard some interesting stories about his humble beginnings, the victories he’s had, and the epic yet scary session down at Maalaea. The youth in Maui are coming into the scene like a storm and Levi is right at the head of that pack.
INTERVIEW
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Photo Aukai Ng
KAIMANA LEONG Catch Maui's real estate wave with... KAIMANA LEONG R(S) - 84731 808-446-5762 KaimanaLeongRE@gmail.com
My parents moved to Maui for windsurfing back in the day. Maui is the windsurfing capital of the world. I was surrounded by the ocean my whole life and went to the beach a lot. My older brother got into surfing a little later, when he was like nine. And I just kind of wanted to do everything he did, and I got into surfing and just fell in love with it. I grew up at Hoʻokipa Beach Park and it's a tricky wave but it's a really good training field. You kind of get a bit of everything.
I have a group of friends that I surf with almost every day like Imai DeVault and Logan Bediamol. They're like my older brothers as well. Seeing such good surfers in front of me, being able to surf with them every day, they pushed me a lot. And then also my peers, like Jackson Bunch and Eli Hannaman, They're insane, some of the best surfers in the world. Maui's got a lot of talent growing up there. And I don't think I would be where I am today without them.
How's it coming to the North Shore of Oʻahu from Maui?
The first time I came to the North Shore of Oʻahu was when I was 11 or 12. It was the first year I got on Quiksilver and stayed in the Quiksilver house and got mentored by Reef McIntosh. He's an all time Pipeline surfer. Having him in my corner, being on the North Shore is amazing. I was scared because Northshore has the most powerful waves in the world. I remember the first time I went out to Pipe, I didn’t even catch a wave. I just went out there and I think it was only like four or five feet. I was just so scared . But nowadays coming to the North Shore, it's something I look forward to every year.
Tell us about your competitive evolution.
When I was super young, I would sign up for the Menehune Mayhem at my home break, Hookipa. That contest is the coolest thing ever. Ian Walsh puts on the greatest event. There's so many games and activities to do there and all your friends are there and good food, and I feel like growing up doing that contest is something that made me wanna be better. I also did HSAs and the NSSAs and surfing in those for sure shaped
What was it like growing up on Maui and learning to surf there?
me
"MAUI'S GOT A LOT OF TALENT GROWING UP THERE. I DON'T THINK I WOULD BE WHERE I AM TODAY WITHOUT THEM."
Photo Mike Latronic
Gnarwall Surf Shop 315 Uluniu St, Kailua, HI 96734 (808) 492-1000 kailuasurfshop.com
Your Kailua Surf Shop
Noah Seibel
into the surfer I am today. Just like all the practice and hours of doing those events gave me a lot of knowledge in heats. Doing all those events is always awesome, especially traveling with your friends and family to Big Island, Oʻahu, and Kauai.
In 2022 I won two national titles in a day over at Huntington Beach and that was pretty cool. I was in two divisions, the Juniors and the Open Mens, so I had basically back to back finals. I went out for my first final and I kind of got my waves early. It felt like one of the longest heats ever just because I was in the lead for most of the time. And then just those final seconds, like the countdown, I was like ‘Yes! I did it!’ I was in such a high moment and when I came in I was just so stoked. I just had to walk away for a little bit and take deep breaths and reset my headspace. After only a 25 minute break, I went back out for my second final and I just had so much confidence. I just accomplished my goal for that year and I just knew I could do it again. I did it again.
What is the biggest challenge when it comes to competitive surfing?
I think the biggest thing is learning how to lose. It's always so tough losing, especially if you fly across the world to do a contest and go out in this first round it really messes with your head. I still do get pretty upset after my heats. I gotta go walk away and not talk to anybody for a couple hours, but it happens and it's a part of the game and you gotta learn from your losses. It's what makes you stronger.
My brother Cody is my best friend and he’s also like my coach. Growing up with him wasn't easy, he would bully me haha. But he also had helped me a lot so I could be where I am today. We've had a couple heats together and there would be a lot of trash talking going down for sure. I'm 18 years old now and he's kind of been in the scene for a while and I'm kind of just going into the QS events and stuff. So maybe a rivalry soon, I don't know about quite yet, but I would love to beat him! I just wanna make a name for myself, not just his little brother. I would get called Cody like at least five times a day. I don't think he's ever got called Levi before. But now I'm creating my own path. I'm not just walking in his footsteps. I'm challenging myself in every way and trying to be better than him. That's always the goal, you know, it's just to be the best.
What was it like surfing with your brother, Cody? Is there a rivalry between you two?
"I WOULD GET CALLED CODY LIKE AT LEAST FIVE TIMES A DAY. I DON'T THINK HE'S EVER GOT CALLED LEVI BEFORE. BUT NOW I'M CREATING MY OWN PATH."
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Photo Aukai Ng
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Surf Expo 2023
By Mike Latronic
SURF EXPO IS THE LARGEST AND LONGEST-RUNNING BOARD SPORTS AND BEACH/RESORT LIFESTYLE TRADESHOW IN THE WORLD.
If you could visit any one place on the planet to get an authentic slice of surf industry commerce, innovation and vibe then you might find yourself in the “surf” section of the long running Surf Expo. Typically held in Orlando Florida in the months of Sept and January this gathering is where the bulk of retail surf business goes down. Surf Expo features thousands of apparel and hard goods brands and a full line-up of special events, including fashion shows, industry parties, annual awards ceremonies, and more. Freesurf Magazine is and has been a media partner of Surf Expo for over a decade and now stands as the only monthly surf publication distributed at the event. Surf Expo is a TRADE ONLY EVENT and is not open to the public.
Upcoming shows are September 7-9 2023 and January 10-12, 2024
LG Shaw is all smiles with his boys at WRV
In the friendly art of sharing shelf space at Surf Expo, publishers of WSSM Sandra and Dan Olsen sandwich our head cheese Mike Latronic
Calm before the Storm Blade
Salty Crew top crew member Jared Lane is stoked on surfing, life and the new issue of Freesurf!
Always enjoy seeing my old friend Joey and his crew at I-Sea eyewear
Xcel Wetsuits makes some of the best suits in the biz!
Kekoa Cazimero and Avva crew.
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#knowtheway Subscribe! Get Freesurf printed and delivered to your mailbox! 6 issues anywhere in the USA.
Kim Ball and the Hi Tech crew do good business and have been in every single edition of Freesurf Magazine since its inception in 2001.
The Firewire guys!
Local Motion still making beautiful boards.
Kelly Thomas always has a smile at Leash Lok Hawai'i!
Looking like a bright future for Dark Seas brand!
There’s that obvious Gorilla in the room and its Sum Bum reminding us to lather up in the sun!
Mad genius Mike Reola meets and greets at Lost Surfboards.
Sharp Eye sharp guy, Marcio Zouvi.
Smoothstar is revolutionizing the way surfers train.
Shaping demos
Surf Expo 2023
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WITH FRIES
TSUNAMI BURGER
Surf Expo 2023
Flojos crew
Made some new friends in the emerging surfing nation of the Dominican Republic.
Some of the best belts ever by Mission Belts
Kala Ukulele was literally making music at the show.
SMKFLWR represent
Flojos crew.
INDUSTRY NOTES
Joe Biden administered an emergency declaration as a result of the California storms. According to the Federal Emergency Management Agency, the relief effort’s goal was to “alleviate the hardship and suffering caused by the emergency on the local population and provide appropriate assistance.”
Jack Coleman dropped a new film, Natural High, featuring Ryan Burch, Derrick Disney, Stephanie Gilmore, Bryce Young, Ari Browne, Tosh Tudor, Gavin Beschen, Leah Dawson, and Andy Nieblas.
On December 14, Patagonia released The Yin And Yang Of Gerry Lopez, a film that lifts the veil on one of surfing's most enigmatic heroes from award-winning documentary filmmaker, Stacy Peralta. For the first time, the film tells the full story of Mr. Pipeline.
UNICEF Costa Rica announces Brisa Hennessy as their first national ambassador. “She is a young woman who is committed to promoting the rights of all girls, children, adolescents, and young people in Costa Rica.”
but the woman's body was never found. Multiple witnesses reported a shark sighting at the time of her disappearance and her death was deemed a shark attack.
On December 14, a man was attacked by what was assumed to be a tiger shark while swimming at 'Anaeho 'omalu Bay on the Big Island. The 68-year-old man was able to fend off the shark with a diving knife but still sustained serious but non-life-threatening injuries.
John John Florence in partnership with the Pyzels and Dan McNamara, the CEO of Pyzel Surfboards, launched VEIA The new surf brand offers boards bags, traction pads, leashes, clothing, and auto accessories.
Maui-based CT athlete Imaikalani deVault joins the Channel Islands surf family.
After a three-day, 300-mile journey from Rapa Nui, the Hoki Mai voyaging crew landed on Motu Motiro Hiva. The team was composed on Chileans and Rapanuis, but in the mix was ʻOʻahu’s Landon Opunui, the only native Hawaiʻian on the crew.
The Perfect Chapter, a contest centered around tube riding, returns for its ninth year to Carcavelos. The invite list is out and the holding period runs from January 9 to March 9—surfers receive 72-hours notice once the event is called on.
Hanalei Surf Co. adds Soleil surfboards, two-time world champ Soleil Errico’s signature surfboards, to their rental fleet.
On December 8, a 60-year-old tourist from Washington disappeared while snorkeling with her husband at Keawakapu Point on Maui. A two-day search from the water and air ensued
In early January, California enjoyed the “50-Year-Storm” with a mix of swell, power, and current that provided waves up and down the coastline. Surfers and photographers flocked the coastline hoping to get in on the action. The swell was the biggest in the past 15 years.
Albee Layer’s long running contract with Dakine came to an end. In an Instagram post he said: “As far as what I’m going to do now? Idk I was told not to publicly say it’s over cause it hurts my market value hahaha. @rockstarenergy is still my fricken ride or die so I still have part of my job and will do everything to push further. Get @juneshineco to keep supporting some ideas as well. I’m pretty good at taking a punch and usually come back harder. Took one too many this year already but whatever. The only thing I’m sure of is I’m not !$&#* done.”
Kelia Moniz gives birth to her second child, a baby girl named Lava Louise
President
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The Best Way to Surf More Hawai'i
Mokulele Surf Team Rider Diego Ferri
128 Daily Inter-Island Flights! 128 Daily Inter-Island Flights!
Photo Aukai Ng
INDUSTRY NOTES
Oakley added talented young female surfers Bettylou Sakura Johnson and Caity Simmers to their roster. They already had Sierra Kerr and Erin Brooks on their team and word on the street is that they may be adding Molly Picklum as well.
Caity Simmer’s new film Toasted premiered at the Moose Lodge in Oceanside, California on January 12th.
Red Bull signed Australia surfer Jack Robinson after back-to-back wins at the end of the 2022 season. After leaving Billabong, it’s rumored that Red Bull will be signing 24-year-old Griffin Colapinto as well.
After losing his Rip Curl sponsor, Conner Coffin has been riding sponsor-less for a while, but this year he will be sporting Salty Crew apparel and Body Glove wetsuits as he rejoins the CS.
Big wave surfer and all around waterman Zane Kekoa Schweitzer and his wife Kimberly Schweitzer announce they are pregnant with a baby boy.
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In Memory Of
China Uemura
China Uemura died on Friday, Jan. 6 around 4:30 p.m., according to the China Uemura Surfing Foundation Instagram page.
China Uemura, a well-known and respected surf organizer ran the China Uemura Longboard Surfing Classic at Kuhio Beach for 33 years.
A popular event in the islands where thousands of surfers participated. The events have raised more than $200,000 to local charities and non-profits.
In the Instagram post, Uemura’s family said in part, “Over the last month its really put into perspective how many people you impacted.”
Uemura’s daughter-in-law said, “Roy ‘China’ Uemura passed away on Jan. 6, at 4:30 p.m. at the age of 68. He was surrounded by family and friends at his home in Wahiawa at the time of his passing. On Nov. 29, dad fell and became paralyzed from the neck down. He underwent emergency neck/spine surgery. Soon after, multiple health issues arose keeping him in the hospital for the last five weeks.”
“Dad was best known for both his Annual Longboard Surfing Classic and Wahine Surfing Classic which ran for 34 years in Waikiki. On behalf of our family, we would like to say thank you to everyone who sent us their aloha and prayers during this time,” added Uemura’s daughter.
Marcio Freire
Marcio Freire, a legendary big-wave surfer, passed away on Thursday while tow-surfing at Nazare. The National Maritime Authority reported that rescuers brought the 47-year-old Brazilian to shore, but efforts to revive him were unsuccessful. The surf community mourned the loss of the XXL-wave pioneer, with many paying tribute to him on social media. Nic Von Rupp, a fellow surfer, praised the rescuers and safety personnel for their efforts and shared that Freire was an inspiration to many. He honored the legacy of Freire, calling him a "true Maddog" and a pioneer who pushed the boundaries of the sport.
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LAST LOOK
"I love going through photos and looking for wave faces. It’s always the huge waves that I find them. I believe we are energy and yes when I see a face showing itself,I feel blessed and I’m thankful to have captured it. Cameras that we have now shooting at 2000th of a second so you can get that crazy moment that you don’t see with your eyes while it’s happening. Here is Billy Kemper at Jaws with a face looking straight down on him." Photo & Quote by Brian Bielmann