Freesurf V20N4 / April 2023

Filipe Toledo

Photo Brian Bielmann / WSL

2023 HURLEY PRO SUNSET CONGRATS

SUNSET BEACH CHAMPION CONGRATS FILIPE

PHOTO CREDIT: WSL

When outer reef fires it's best to wait for a lull to paddle out. The Pipeline line up scrambles for position.

Photo Brian Bielmann

Editorial

Editor / Publisher

Mike Latronic

Photo Director

Brian Bielmann

Art Director

John Weaver

Editorial Assistants

Kaea Latronic, Rebecca Parsons, Lowell Burton

Business Administration

Cora Sanchez (808) 260-9219

West Coast Distribution & Sales

Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128

Distribution & Advertising Inquiries (808) 260-9219

Staff Shooters

Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver

Contributing Writers

Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ito, Nicole Nason

Contributing Photographers

Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke, Mitch McEwen

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ERGONOMIC. STRETCH. EVOLUTION.

Kaeo Abbey Photo Scott Sullivan

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20 Hurley Pro Sunset

34 Luke Tema

62 Larry Haynes

By Mike Latronic

Tip Number 196

Paumalu, as the Hawaiians called it, is not just a place to ride big waves; it is a proving ground. Since the early sixties, many brave men (and women) have paddled out in Hawaiian waters to prove their mettle and Sunset Beach has been an all too willing challenge to reckon with. It’s a legacy North Shore surfing sensation and it was a special treat to see the location once again back on the World Surfing Leagues Championship Tour calendar with the Hurley Pro.

The world's best took to the varied conditions at Sunset beach for the week long tournament and absolutely put power and skill to the test. Modern equipment and relative small board lengths coupled with high skill produced some of the most progressive surfing performances ever witnessed on those powerful and majestic walls.

This issue chronicles the Hurley Pro event at Sunset but then also takes a turn for the more free and fanciful as we peek at the super fun antics at the Buffalo Big Board Classic. Held annually at Makaha the Buffalo Big Board Classic is a medley of inventive, curious and unique disciplines.

Our Junior profile this month is Luke Tema. Tema’s one of those kids who grew up on Oahu’s north shore and took a liking to competitive surfing early. Consistently making the finals of many of the events he entered, Luke is no stranger to the winners circle and as he grows more muscle into that 6’0 frame Tema is certainly one to watch for the coming years.

Also in this edition we say a proper farewell and celebrate the life and accomplishments of the one and only Larry Haynes. With Larry’s passing people keep asking me “Who will ever replace Larry Haynes,” and my answer is quick and effortless. “Nobody.” Haynes was a lifelong achiever and pioneer in the field of water videography. Going hard for nearly 40 years Haynes lived and played hard. Freesurf caught up with several athletes and personalities to comment and the love and admiration were prevalent.

Larry was a longtime friend of mine and even a business partner at one point. His stoke and good nature were apparent on any given day and I leave our audience with this last notion that Larry always used to say, “You only get one life to live…So Live It!.” Aloha Larry!

Mike Latronic Photo Brian Bielmann

Hurley Pro Sunset Beach

Molly Picklum (AUS) and Filipe Toledo (BRA) won the )( Hurley Pro Sunset Beach, the second stop on the World Surf League (WSL) 2023 Championship Tour (CT), in six-to-eight foot waves at Sunset Beach on the North Shore of Oahu.

Despite being early in the season, today’s Hurley Pro Sunset Beach results are critical to the CT rankings, with the Midseason Cut looming following Stop No. 5 at Margaret River, as well as provisional Olympic qualification for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Picklum and Carissa Moore (HAW) are now tied for the top position on the world rankings, with Jack Robinson (AUS) also in first. Filipe Toledo (BRA) and Tyler Wright (AUS) are quickly trailing close behind in second and third, respectively.

Filipe Toledo Photo Brent Bielmann

Nat Young Photo Brian Bielmann / WSL

Molly Picklum Photo Brent Bielmann / WSL

TY SIMPSON-KANE

2022 MIL Surfer of the Year

2022 Duke Kahanamoku Scholarship Winner California Maritime Academy student

Griffin Colapinto top and Jack Robinson bottom Photos Brian Bielmann / WSL

Joao Chianca top and Caio Ibelli bottom Photos Brian Bielmann / WSL

Yaga Dora and bottom Carissa Moore Photos Brian Bielmann / WSL

Molly Picklum Wins Hurley Pro Sunset Beach, Goes to No. 1 on the Rankings

Australia’s Molly Picklum claimed her first CT win, the best result of her career so far, today at the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach. The 20-year-old was chaired up the beach by two-time World Champion Tyler Wright (AUS) and Brisa Hennessy (CRC), both competitors who she eliminated en route to the Final. With her maiden CT victory, and in only her second year on the elite CT, Picklum is now tied for the No. 1 position on the world rankings with none other than five-time World Champion Carissa Moore (HAW). Picklum will now wear the yellow Leader jersey at Stop No. 3 on the CT.

The women’s Final showcased progressive surfing as two of the Tour’s younger competitors battled it out for the win. After falling on the first wave of the Final, Picklum quickly regained her composure and posted two mid-range scores by halfway through the heat. But Marks answered back, unleashing her formidable backhand attack to earn a near-excellent 7.50 and put pressure back on Picklum. Under priority, Marks utilized an opportunity to capitalize and took over the lead, forcing Picklum to need a 5.58.

In a flurry of action, Picklum earned a 5.50 and 5.40 to steal the lead from Marks at the 10-minute mark, and left Marks needing a 3.40 as time dwindled.

Filipe Toledo Claims 13th CT Victory at Hurley Pro Sunset Beach

Newly minted World Champion Filipe Toledo (BRA) is back on top after his win at the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach. Toledo had a strong start at the first stop of the season, finishing in fifth, but his win now makes it clear that he is out to prove that he can defend his World Title in 2023. The 27-year-old now has 13 CT victories to his name and sits at World No. 2 on the rankings heading into Portugal.

The last two minutes provided a last opportunity for both surfers to showcase their power once. Toledo’s lightning-fast attack earned him a near-perfect 9.47 and pushed the requirement higher. Colapinto’s last attempt fell short, crowning Toledo the event victor.

“It means a lot, I worked super hard for this just training and surfing,” said Toledo. “Last year was fun, and I got what I wanted, which was my Title, and I learned a lot. When it comes to situations like this, I feel like I’m really wellprepared and ready for anything. Griffin Colapinto came out swinging, and I’m just thinking, ‘I’m ready, here we go.’ I knew the right wave would come, it was slow for a lot of the heat, but I could see he was tense having that 9.17. He seemed a little nervous, I don’t know if he was or not, and I stayed calmed and composed and just wait for the wave, then do what I have to do.”

San Clemente’s Colapinto fell shy of his third career CT win, but he will use the momentum heading into the next stop in Portugal, where he is the defending event

Carissa Moore Photo Brian Bielmann / WSL

Kelly Slater Photo Tony Heff / WSL

Laiana Kanoa-Wong Photo Brent Bielmann / WSL

Yago Dora Photo Brian Bielmann / WSL

Treat yourself

winner. The 24-year-old is ready for his breakthrough season after failing to make the Final 5 by one place last season. Colapinto proved he’s ready to take on the world’s best after taking down World No. 1 Jack Robinson (AUS) in the Semifinals and Ethan Ewing (AUS) in the Quarterfinals.

Hurley Pro Sunset Beach Women's Final Results:

1 - Molly Picklum (AUS) 10.90

2 - Caroline Marks (USA) 9.90

Hurley Pro Sunset Beach Men's Final Results:

1 - Filipe Toledo (BRA) 17.74

2 - Griffin Colapinto (USA) 16.10

Hurley Pro Sunset Beach Women's Semifiinal Results:

HEAT 1: Molly Picklum (AUS) 12.34 DEF. Tyler Wright (AUS) 1.74

HEAT 2: Caroline Marks (USA) 13.10 DEF. Gabriela Bryan (HAW)

8.83

Hurley Pro Sunset Beach Men's Semifiinal Results:

HEAT 1: Griffin Colapinto (USA) 17.90 DEF. Jack Robinson (AUS)

16.33

HEAT 2: Filipe Toledo (BRA) 16.33 DEF. Joao Chianca (BRA) 15.54

For more information, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

Filipe Toledo

Photo Tony Heff / WSL

Molly Picklum

Photo Tony Heff / WSL

There have been many surfers over the years who had humble beginnings. They start off in places where the surf is small or they are from a small corner of the world. These athletes also saw a need to improve on their surfing to maintain the same level as their peers. One young surfer who entered this humble class is North Shore local, Luke Tema. Being close to 6 feet tall and having a long stride, this 16 year old is still making a name for himself, but for everyone in the Hawaiian surf community, Luke is well known. Even though Luke grew up in the epicenter of surfing, he was still patient making his way up to the center of the lineup and earning respect.

LUKE TEMA

At a young age, Luke Tema lived on the South Shore and learned to surf from his father Eric Tema. “I remember that it was my dad teaching me when I was 4 or 5 and I didn't really like it that much, but he kind of just forced me to surf, haha, and then eventually I learned to like it.”

Story and photos by Aukai Ng

Later in the years, Luke would take after school trips up to the North Shore to learn more about these lineups. But going to the North Shore to surf and living right out near the 7 mile miracle are two different things. It makes a huge difference when you live right outside Pipe or Rockies if one wants to commit to surfing world class waves. When Luke was 13, his parents moved the whole family to the North Shore. At that point, Luke needed to switch his mentality to surfing soft waves of Honolulu to the power of Northern Swells on a consistent level. Their new home was right outside V-land, making it the perfect first spot to this new chapter in life.

“I love Surfing V-Land and that was kinda where I started to learn to surf on the North Shore, it’s kind of the most mellow wave to surf to learn on.” But a mellow 3-4 foot swell at V-land was just not enough, he needed to put himself in bigger and gnarly conditions.

“I just adapted to bigger waves from just living here on the North Shore. You just surf more of these big waves all the time and there's so many swells out here, so you get pretty used to it. And also just my friends pushed me to go on bigger waves and I just wanted to get better ones than them.”

Luke kept going out into 4 foot to 6 foot V-land, then moving down the beach to Sunset and Rockies. But the real test came down to surfing the infamous Banzai Pipeline. At the start,

Luke had to paddle out to Pipe with his dad so he would be well advised and protected. Overtime, it was time to take the training wheels off. At age 13, he went out there on his own.

“I mean, it's always scary. I could go out on any day but it's more about going on the waves and there's definitely very scary waves out there. I was pretty scared but after about like an hour in the lineup, I was kinda sitting in the channel at first and then I couldn't watch any more waves go by without me going on 'em. So I just went and I just slowly got more comfortable and then when I started wearing a helmet, it boosted my confidence even more and that helped.”

What a great attitude. This kind of mentality Luke has to want to push himself to the limits just shows how serious he is on becoming a professional surfer. But just paddling out in heavy surf and catching barrels wasn’t enough. He needed to get to a level where he was a great all around surfer.

“I was always kind of like barrel riding came easy to me, but everything else I had to work a lot on and I felt like I was not as good as some of the other kids back then, but I've kinda gotten closer to their level now because I've been working on my turns and stuff. I used to only get barreled.”

Luke is excellent in the barrel and he can thank his father and Doug Silva who helped him on those skills. But now it was time for him to get to that level, so Luke started taking one-on-one lessons with Kid Peligro, one of the North Shore's finest Jiu-Jitsu trainers. With Kid’s help, Luke got into Gymnastica, a training route where one focuses on agility. Recently, Luke went through an interesting and awkward growth spurt, making it a difficult one moving with good flexibility. This type of surf trainer really heightened his flexibility and coordination making it much easier to move with flow and style.

“I've gotten better at Haleiwa for sure. Haleiwa and Sunset, those two waves were pretty hard for me. Just doing those turns on bigger waves was difficult but now I feel like I've found the right boards for those waves and also just grown a little bit more to where I can be able to do those turns on those bigger waves.”

Luke has indeed made progress over the last few years since working with Peligro. You can definitely tell when Luke puts so much effort and heart in his maneuvers, especially from his facial expressions. With a long wingspan, Luke really uses them to draw out his line when going into a major move. When going into his cutbacks or layback hacks, so much spray is released in the air. Now moving with much more speed, he also wants to take it to the air and punts it as high as he can. Now being an all around surfer in the freesurf is great, but how is it when it comes to competition?

‘OLINA SWIMWEAR

OAHU, HAWAII

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Luke started his competitive career when he was only 5 years old and making pretty good results over the years. But it wasn’t until these last couple years where everything started to click for Luke. Since his specialty is big waves, head to overhead high competition is something he excelled in. His air, rail, and barrel game are absolutely on point. His best results include his victories at big Kewalos for the Rip Curl Grom Search in the 16u for 2 consecutive years and two more victories at Honolua Legends of the Bay between 15-16. A win he is most proud of is the NSSA Nationals at Huntington Beach for the Open Juniors. Other great achievements he still enjoyed was getting the gold in the Hawai'i Surf Team in the most recent ISA games in El Salvador and getting Bronze for the 16u division. Like any competitive surfer, there are always some ups and downs, but in these victories are more confidence boosters and just more motivation to keep going.

Surfers definitely have to start somewhere if they want to make it to the top. Sometimes egos can get in the way of one’s reality. But it’s great how Luke was able to step back and really analyze his surfing. A person would just say “my surfing is just on point or the rest will come to them eventually.” But Luke is different. He saw his skills to be, “Hey, I’m great in the barrel, but I recognize I need to work on my turns, or my air. What can I do to get better?” What humility? He made the effort to go above and beyond what was necessary to get to a great point in his surfing. It’s always hard to admit it, but getting to that point is a great growth in one's character. Luke has come a long way to get to where he is now and there is definitely a lot to look forward to if you are a Luke Tema fan. Just try to spot out the 6 foot 16 year old with long arms in the lineup and you’ll see Luke tearing it up.

Photo Jenn Tema

APERTURE

Shaun Walsh Photo Erik Aeder

^ Jake Maki, Waimea. Photo Brian Bielmann

< Noah Dean exploring inner space. Photo TaiVan Dyke Sharks Cove. Photo Brian Bielmann ^

"I've always been drawn to the Waimea church tower as such an iconic part of the North Shore landscape and surf culture. Decades of images have juxtaposed its manmade sacred construct against the raw ,unrelenting and mesmerizing power of Mother Ocean. As a photographer images from some of the great lensmen like Dan Merkel, Sean Davey and others have been etched into my brain since I was a kid. It's been a fun pursuit for me to try and capture my own perspective of the tower and the wave together in all their glory. In the morning hours of the Eddie this year , the light and the waves came together for this image , showcasing the supercharged arena as a truly epic day was about to go down."

Photo Scott Sullivan

Zane Kekoa Schweitzer, somehwere on Maui. Photo Erik Aeder

A couple of days before the Backdoor Shootout went off, the Sandbar did made a sneaky and but epic little appearance for a few fleeting few hours for a few those lucky souls that happened to be on the beach.

With just enough north in the swell and beautiful wind conditions it all came together for a brief moment and then it was gone, to be replaced by the bombing NW swell that shortly filled in and changed the bar for the rest of the season. Barron seems to have an innate knowledge with that wave and the many faces it wears and to watch him surf it with such speed and be able to capture it through my lens is pure joy.

Barron Mamiya, Kala Grace, Balaram Stack, Ivan Florence and Kelly Slater were the core of the crew sampling the goods.

Photo Scott Sullivan

Griffin Colapinto

Photo Brent Bielmann

As steep as it gets at Waimea Bay,

Keali’i Mamala. Photo Brian Bielmann

Photos Kuhio Vallalos

Sitting under a row of tents that stood atop two-story scaffolding, "Buffalo" Richard Keaulana watched as competitors at the 46th Annual Buffalo Big Board Classic exchanged airs, power turns and deep barrels for maneuvers that Buff designed, like the dead cockroach, the coffin and the Buddha.

If stances like these weren’t enough to show the audience at Makaha Beach the uniqueness of the Buffalo Big Board Classic, the heat categories certainly did. Where else can surfers compete using paipo boards, alai’a boards, bully boards, canoes, and SUPSquatches? And where else can an entire surfing community, all donning “Buffalo Big Board Classic” t-shirts, greet and embrace an 88-yearold living legend of the sport as if it were a family reunion?

A reunion is exactly what the Buffalo Big Board Classic has been for forty-six years on the sands of Makaha Beach, where members of the global surf community gather to compete in a contest unlike any other, founded by Buff – a man unlike any other.

“The Buffalo contest is timeless,” said renown lifeguard and bodyboarder Mark Cunningham. “The cast of characters gets a little older, and there’s always a younger generation coming up. Forty-six years is an incredible body of work, so hats off to the Keaulanas, the DeSotos and the entire Westside community that puts on this wonderful event that is so giving to the surfing community and to the surfing world.”

“Every year is special, it just magnifies every year,” said Brian Keaulana, Buff’s eldest son. “From the first to the fortieth, it’s practicing traditions and the intent of my father. When he first sailed in 1976 from Hawai'i to Tahiti on Hōkūle'a, he had the vision of bringing back a culture of family, values, bringing back the whole beach culture to what you see today. Every year, there was more improvement, more fun and more laughter, along with a sharing of food, a sharing of knowledge. That’s the treasure chest that my parents have given me and this community. The ocean community isn’t separated by land, but connected by water. All people show up and they become part of our family.”

Photo Rob Henson

Which is what the essence of the Buffalo Big Board Classic has been for four decades: a family-like get together, something that is a breath of fresh air from today’s current competition format.

Fostering records, progressive thinking, and always looking to build upon the foundation of the past are staples that the Makaha surf community prides itself on.

TSUNAMI BURGER WITH FRIES

Hale Kope (Coffee Shop) 730am - 430pm

Kikoni (Bar) 10am - 430pm, Thursday's Till 6pm

Wahi Aina (Grill) 10am - 430pm

Wailele (Shave Ice and Local Snack Shop) 10am - 4pm

Open Kitchen is Located in Waimea Valley, a Branch of Ke Nui Kitchen

Kama'aina Discounts | Pau Hana Thursday's Hale Kope Loyalty Card, Purchase 7 Coffees Get One Free

Open Daily

IG: Open Kitchen Oahu Openkitchenoahu.com (808) 376-4135

“We’re pretty innovative over here,” said Kaipo Guerrero. “I first did SUP in 1963. We didn’t have the right paddles, we had heavy wooden paddles. Once they came around with fiberglass paddles, Brian and those guys started it right here and it just took off.”

Larry Haynes Photo Tom Servais

LARRY HAYNES

Like stones thrown in the ocean, people often leave behind ripples when they leave. Although Larry Haynes made a massive impact on the surf community and the lives of those who knew him during his time on Earth, the ripples he leaves behind may be even wider reaching.

A staple in the surf industry, Haynes worked as a photographer and a videographer for over thirty years. Over the course of his career, he paddled out at some of the heaviest waves in the world, spending hours in the water in the name of getting the perfect shot. While Haynes will certainly be remembered for the incredible images and videos he captured, he will remain firmly lodged in the hearts of those who knew him for his energy, positivity, contagious smile, and constant stoke. Here, some of surfing’s best share why Larry Haynes is a name that will always be remembered.

“Larry was my work partner—I drove the jet ski. Larry was a great pleasure to work with and his work ethic was beyond. I knew that being furthest in all the time, you would get the best shot and the longest shot. I wanted to stay all the way in and same with Larry—we’ve gone through many waves duck diving or going right through them. But that was the way we got the best shots. He captured a lot of moments and the POV was unlike any other, we always had the best seat in the house. Everyone always seemed stoked on him.”

“Larry was a staple in the surf community. He was one of those guys that was just so easy to click with. He was so fun to be around and always had a huge smile. He'd be out in the water twice as long as anyone—it was incredible, the endurance that guy had, how passionate he was about being out there and nailing shots. He was just so fun and silly and in situations where things were heavy, he would always have a way of like shedding light on it and making it fun. I think he's always going to be out there with us and I’m always going to feel his presence.”

“Larry Haynes was an absolute frother. He was in the water from when the sun came up to when the sun went down every day at Pipeline just swimming around, trying to get the best shot. I don't even remember ever seeing him eat food—I just remember seeing him in the water, nailing shots, and having a great attitude. He did a lot for the evolution of surf media and all we know about water photography, especially on the North Shore. He's an absolute legend. I had a lot of respect for the guy and was sad to see him go, but the legacy he leaves behind is legendary. I hope people will take what he's done for this community and act in a positive way and carry on the legacy, the legend of Larry Haynes.”

-Lucas Godfrey, pro surfer

-Abe Lerner, jet ski driver

- Torrey Meister, big wave surfer

Abe Lerner and Larry Haynes. Photo Christa Funk

Photo Mike Latronic

Lucas Godfrey Photo Brian Bielmann

Mokulele Surf Team Rider

Diego Ferri

Photo Aukai Ng

Going thru life you're lucky to count your true friends on one hand. Well Larry was one of those friends.

We both moved from California to Hawai'i for the same reason over 30 years ago. Surfing and shooting the best waves and the best surfers of the the world. He was a brother from another mother.

Doing things with Larry you know your in for a wild ride but a good time . The adventure is what life is all about and stoked to have Larry by my side. We fueled each others fire…. A true friend..gonna miss my brother.Big Shaka. Love you Larry. Aloha.

“Larry was the epitome of a positive smile, and he wore it every single day in and out of the water. He spent more time in the water on the ski filming everyone getting the waves or the beatings of their lives. He had stamina like no other. Coming in for just some water and a snack at the Volcom house then right back out for another six hours—the guy was a machine. He definitely set the bar for all water filmers in later years like my generation with how he started water videography. To this day, it’s hard to imagine anyone with the amount of hours he’s put in. I feel so honored to have a few clips of my own from Larry and will always remember that smile and stoke in the channel.”

“Larry Haynes was the type of person to show his aloha to any and everyone that crossed his path. He seemed to always have a smile on his face when I would see him around town and an even bigger one when out in the lineup doing what he loved. Larry was second to none in the water throughout the photographer/videographer lineup at Pipeline. He would be out for two sessions in a day without touching the beach for a drink or lunch. On top of that his work would never slip, it was always the cream of the crop, blowing all the other videographers' footage out of the water.”

-Balaram Stack, pro surfer

- Makana Pang, pro surfer

Balaram Stack Photo Scott Sullivan

Makana Pang Photo Brian Bielmann

-Hank Fotos, surf photographer

“From the very first day I met Larry till the last time I saw Larry, he was the same person—just a crazy beast of energy and always ready whether we were filming together, surfing together, traveling together, or showing up at the airport. Larry lived his life to the fullest. He was an amazing, integral part in the surf world as far as capturing shots. No one will ever replace Larry, but I'd love to see some people get inspired by him. Larry inspired me forever.”

“I met Larry at the 2015 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout. As I kept shooting progressively bigger days and I was out in the bigger surf more consistently, I kept seeing him and we naturally fell into a friendship. When I'd get to shoot with Larry, it was always something that I'd really look forward to. Larry was a character, and he had this vibrant, bright personality and he was just genuinely happy to be in the water.

He lived life looking down a lot of barrels and I think he lived it doing exactly what he wanted to do. He got to do what he was passionate about and you could very easily tell from meeting him even one time that that was exactly where Larry wanted to be, was in the water shooting. I'm really grateful I got to personally know him and be a part of a community that really appreciated him.”

“Larry was a bigger than life kind of guy. Just being around him kind of inspired you to kind of be the best person that you could be. Larry loved to shoot, and you could really see it in his work, through the music he used, the people that he shot, and the way that he even explained it. It’s going to be extremely hard to fill his shoes.”

- Bill Ballard, surf videographer

-Christa Funk, surf photographer

- Keoki Saguibo, surf photographer

Larry shooting Peahi Photo Scott Sullivan

Christa Funk Photo Brent Bielmann

Photo Aukai Ng

“He was one of those unique individuals who always remained positive no matter the circumstances—it was infectious! He had a work ethic second to none, it meant nothing for him to be out in the ocean for six hours straight, come in grab a quick bite to eat, and head straight back out. He truly was a master of his craft and the respect amongst his peers and the surfers goes without saying. [He was] one of a kind that will surely be missed!”

“One of the stories that sticks out in my mind most about Larry was close to 30 years ago. We went on a trip together with Tom Servais to Western Samoa and Fiji for a couple weeks. We went in this old sailboat in Fiji and we were meant to go sail around and look for waves and we got really skunked. It was kind of flat and super windy the whole time but Larry was just being Larry and I remember him just being so froth. He was borrowing Tom’s wind surfboard even though he didn't know how to do it, he was snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing, longboarding, trying to shoot us, and I just remember him being so psyched. He was amped up on that trip even though there were a lot of reasons to be bummed because the waves were flat. Larry was always really upbeat, and I will always remember him for being an optimist.”

“In short, I would describe Larry as just pure energy, pure aloha. He was always enthusiastic and showed so much love and passion for what he did and for other people who shared his passion. He was so encouraging. If you shared that same passion and he saw it in your eyes and saw that you wanted to be a part of it, he would make you feel like you are a part of it and would really motivate you. Larry expanded so much love over everybody and touched so many people. His spirit will live forever.”

-Ross Williams, pro surfer

- Graham Stapelberg, WSL

- David Elecciri Jr., musician, Steel Pulse

Ross Williams Photo Brian Bielmann

David Elecciri Jr.

My first trip to the mentawais, and my first trip ever with Larry Haynes. One of the surfers on the boat was Brock Little. Brocke would jump off the boat while we were moving holding a rope that was tied to the back of the boat , when there was no more slack and the rope would be tight, while being dragged he would pull himself back to the boat. Pretty hard to do actually. There was this Bali cook who would prepare our meals and he had a crush on Brock and decided he wanted to do it too. So he jumped off the back giggling and as soon as the rope went tight. He was being dragged behind the boat ,his little shorts came off and he was butt naked and screaming in this high pitched scream. Larry came and pulled the rope and him back to the boat. Larry saved him, he decided he liked Larry now. He was his hero. So It was night and we were laying on deck looking at the stars and our cook came on board and lay next to Larry. With love struck eyes he leaned over close and said ‘Larry, you are so handsome, do you have girlfriend to which Larry no doubt trying to escape his affection replied” I have many…. Like the stars. That is the Larry I would know for the next 30 years. The guy lived his life to the fullest. We will never see another Larry Haynes and Im just glad to call him my brother and to have had so many adventures with him. Love you long time Larry

“I've been blessed to know Larry since the late eighties when I first moved to Oahu. We used to both shoot surfing back in the day and ended up making our first movie together.

Larry was always the guy who was in the water first and out last. I was in awe of Larry's energy, his stamina, and his stoke. Larry was larger than life.”

“I've known Larry for 30 or 35 years. He was such a go get em guy with a lot of heart behind everything he did. It was like working with a teenager that had so much ambition and I just love the guy so much. Larry lived his life to the fullest—anything he did, it was 110% and he had so much energy. He was incredible and so inspirational.

I watched him at Pipeline be in the water for three hours straight and then come in and have a quick water break and a bite and go back out and spend another four hours. He was unstoppable—you kind of got worried sometimes when you see him out there and you’d check on him when you're passing by in the lineup, but he'd always have a smile and you wouldn't be able to see him that well because he had these big goggles on. He was a workaholic and he loved what he did. Everybody wants to be like Larry—beautiful man.”

- Kai Santos, pro bodysurfer

- Brian Bielmann, Photographer

Photo Aukai Ng

- Derek Hoffman, surf photographer

FOR THE LONG RIDE...

FIND

GERRY LOPEZ MR. PIPELINE

1,000 DAY SURFING STREAK

By Rebecca Parsons

East coast grom Carter Doorley has surfed over 1,000 days in a row, raising hundreds of dollars for local charities along the way.

Carter Dooley isn’t like most kids his age. While most pre-teens spend their free time playing video games or goofing off with their friends, the 12-year-old from Brigantine, New Jersey spends his spare time in the water, surfing. Born to a family of surfers, surfing has always been a part of Doorley’s DNA. So, when COVID shut down the schools, playgrounds, skateparks, and hockey rinks, Doorley took to the ocean.

What began as a way to expel extra energy quickly turned into a mission for Doorley. His original plan was to surf 100 days straight, but from there it kept growing. Fast forward to the present and Doorley has surfed over 1,000 days in a row and has raised hundreds of dollars for local charities. We caught up with Doorely between waves and asked how his surfing mission first began, the most challenging parts of surfing every day, and his plans looking forward.

Where do you usually surf?

My home break is the jetty in Brigantine. You can find me there almost every day! There is always a wave there. The waves are mostly long A-frame waves with the opportunity for multiple turns.

What inspired you to start surfing daily? I started surfing every day because COVID shut down the schools, playgrounds, skateparks, and hockey courts but they never shut down the beach here in Brigantine. I couldn’t see my friends so I asked my mom if I could surf to get some energy out. And, here we are, 1000+ days later!

When you started your daily surfs did you have a specific goal in mind? I started out wanting to surf every day until we got to go back to school. Then, it was 100 days, then 200 days. Each goal was little, so it wasn’t so overwhelming to reach.

What is your routine?

Every day I go to school and surf when I get home late in the afternoon. Sometimes I have to surf early in the morning if my brothers have sports to do after school or if we are going to have bad weather later in the day.

What counts as a surf for you? I have to actually be able to stand up

surfing with dolphins, and big waves are the best!

Do you compete as well?

I compete in the local ESA competitions, local boardrider competitions, on the east coast grom tour, and I have been in a Red Bull foam wreckers competition which was awesome!

How are you using your surfing to raise money for local charities?

I started collecting food and money for the local food pantry during COVID because a lot of local people and people that I surf with were not working in the casinos and their jobs because of COVID. I felt sad and I wanted to make sure they had food, especially for the holidays.

I started raising money for a local animal farm by surfing one wave for every dollar donated and raised $320—so I had to surf 320 waves! I have raised money for SurfAid, I have raised money and collected food for the local food pantry, I have raised money for kids in Ukraine, and I have collected skateboards, helmets, and pads to give out when our local skate park reopened to make sure everyone could use the new park.

Do you plan to continue the streak?

Yes, I plan to continue to surf every day. I am less than 100 days away from surfing every day for three whole years! My next goal is 1095 days which is three years.

and ride a wave for it to count as a surf. I usually try to catch three waves for it to count as a session, but I usually go way over that!

What has been the most challenging part of the experience?

Surfing in a hurricane was pretty challenging (my dad was there and looked at the forecast to make sure I was safe) and single digit temperatures were pretty tough to go out in.

The most rewarding?

The most rewarding is getting barreled,

What are your future goals with surfing? I hope to travel and surf. I have never left the east coast or even been on a plane. There are so many amazing places in the world with awesome waves and I want to see all of them and meet surfers from around the world!

Anything else?

I hope that kids are inspired to make a difference and help people. I want people to leave the beaches better than they found them, protect the ocean and waves, adopt pets and just be the good in the world. You are never too little to make a difference in the world!

BOARD STORIES IS

BACK!

“Board Stories” can be seen in Hawai'i on Spectrum OC16 on Ch. 16/1016 and Spectrum Surf Channel Ch. 20/1020. Spectrum OC16’s live stream is available on oc16.tv and the Spectrum TV app (to Spectrum customers in Hawai'i only), and nationally to any Spectrum customer on the Spectrum News mobile app and CTV app on Roku and Apple TV.

Hosts Pua DeSoto and Mike Latronic

Mayor Rick Blangiardi and council member Matt Weyer recognized the six female surfers who competed in the Eddie: Paige Alms, Keala Kennelly, Makani Adric, Andrea Moller, Emily Erickson and Justine Dupont. The women received certificates from the city council to honor their accomplishments.

The United Nations members agreed on a unified treaty to protect biodiversity in the world’s oceans. Discussions and negotiations about how to protect marine life in the regions outside of boundary waters have been taking place for the past 20 years but the agreement was finally reached on March 4.

Liv Stone joined the O’Neill team. Stone was born with a congenital limb difference and is now a surfer, disability advocate, six-time gold medalist, and three-time Para Surf World Champion.

Rip Curl officially became a B Corp Certified Corporation (B Corp). With the announcement, Rip Curl joined a global community of businesses who are driving accountability for their impact on people, the planet, and community.

athlete selected the woman of his or her choice.

Nic von Rupp wins the ninth annual Perfect Chapter presented by Billabong. The conditions at Carcavelos Beach in Cascais, Portugal were all time. This win marks the third win at the event for von Rupp.

A celebration of life was held for Waikiki beach boy and surf contest organizer Roy “China” Uemura on March 5. Uncle China’s friends and family gathered to say goodbye and scatter his ashes at Ala Moana Beach Park.

ISA gold medalist and Olympic hopeful Erin Brooks signed with Rochester, New York based lifestyle shop, Neon Wave. Erin joins fellow Neon Wave ambassadors Ståle Sandbech, Nate Zoller, Ashley Inloes, Noah Avallone, Samuel Goncalves, and Bobo Gallagher as they work to establish a global team of likeminded athletes and activists.

In honor of International Women’s Day, all the Championship Tour surfers competed in the MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal wearing jerseys with the name of an inspiring woman in sports. Each

Kauai based pro surfer Brianna Cope joined the Alphalete team. Alphalete is a premium fitness and lifestyle brand that makes athletic apparel to help athletes become the best versions of themselves.

Chelsea Kahalepauole-Bizik became the first female lieutenant in the 106year history of the Honolulu Ocean Safety lifeguards. Raised in Kailua, Oahu, Kahalepauole-Bizik is a surfer, competitive ocean paddler, and has worked as a lifeguard for over ten years.

In an interview with The Guardian, Kelly Slater said that he plans on retiring after the Olympics, if he makes them.

In late February, the short film Malia was released. Created by filmmaker Morgan Massen, the film follows pro surfer Malia Manuel to some of her favorite surf spots as well as some new ones: Tahiti, South Africa, France, Spain, and Kauai.

INDUSTRY NOTES

Salt Life co-founder Michael Hutto was sentenced to 12 years in prison for the death of his girlfriend, Lora Grace Duncan. Hutto pled guilting to shooting Duncan at the Hilton Singer Island Resort in Florida in October of 2020. Duncan was only 18 years old.

Xcel signed California based surfer Sage Erickson to their team. Previously owned by Boardriders, Xcel now operates as an independent company. Erickson is excited to join the team and is a fan of Xcel because of “their commitment to making the highest performing wetsuits is important to me as a professional surfer, and I am excited to help build out the Xcel women’s business.”

Season three of the hit drama The Outer Banks premiered on Netflix on February 23. The show featured ocean athlete and North Carolina based surfer James Jenkins.

North Shore lifeguards appeared on an episode of HBO’s Emmywinning show, Real Sports.

Pearl Jam released a music video entitled Low Light featuring North Shore legend and tube riding standout Jock Sutherland

The Leisure Collective, the parent company of Creatures of Leisure, OTIS eyewear, and Sito and Layday, was granted B Corp status.

Julian Wilson and Mateus Herdy dropped by long time sponsor Red Bull. Kolohe Andino dropped by Oakley.

The highly anticipated second season of the documentary series Make or Break premiered on Apple TV on February 17.

On March 5, Bill Parks, the founder of Northwest River Supplies (NRS) passed away at the age of 88 due to natural causes. RIP.

Christian P Young, aka Offroader808 journeyed home to God on Saturday February 18th after a decade fighting cancer. In the end it was not the illness that won, but the warrior who bravely and heroically fought to make peace with his enemy.

Aloha, until next time. Photo Scott Sullivan

OHANA is

thicker than water.

Photo: Sean Stanley